Chevrolet - Element 2wd - Workshop Manual - 2003 - 2003

2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the connector from the 2nd clutch pressure switch (A). 3. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 4. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. 5. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 8100 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2755 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 2145 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 5987 6. Disconnect the jumper wire. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the compressor clutch relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the No. 14 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the compressor clutch relay socket. 9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 10. Reinstall the compressor clutch relay. 11. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF. 12. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 13. Using the Backprobe Set, measure the voltage between the No. 18 terminal of ECM/PCM connector E (31P) and body ground with the ECM/PCM connectors connected. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at terminal E18 of the ECM/PCM connector E (31P). If the connections are good, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the compressor clutch relay and the ECM/PCM. 14. Disconnect the jumper wire. 15. Disconnect the compressor clutch 1P connector. Page 3872 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C move. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C body. 14. If either valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. Page 3491 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. CMP Pulse Plate Replacement Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Replacement CMP Pulse Plate A Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate A. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate A in the reverse order of removal. CMP Pulse Plate B Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. Page 1158 Valve Clearance: Adjustments Adjustment NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C). 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC). The punch mark (A) on the variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust camshaft sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket. 3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check. Intake: 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Exhaust: 0.28 - 0.32 mm (0.011 - 0.013 inch) Adjusting screw locations 4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem, and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag. Page 7788 5. Main weld the damper housing (A) to the front side frame (B). 6. Main weld the damper housing extension upper (A)and front damper extension (B) to the dashboard upper (C) and dashboard upper side member (D). 7. Main weld the front damper extension (A) to the dash board upper side member (B) and front inner lower pillar(C). Page 5677 Steering Gear: Adjustments Rack Guide Adjustment Special Tools Required Locknut wrench, 40 mm 07916-SA50001 1. Set the wheels in the straight ahead position. 2. Loosen the rack guide screw locknut (A) with the special tool, then remove the rack guide screw (B). 3. Remove the old sealant from rack guide screw (A), and apply new sealant (Three Bond 1215 or Loctite 5699) to the middle of the threads (B). Loosely install the rack guide screw in the steering gearbox. 4. Tighten the rack guide screw (A) to 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft. lbs.), then loosen it. 5. Retighten the rack guide screw to 6 Nm (0.6 kgf-m, 4 ft. lbs.), then back it off to specified angle. Specified Return Angle: 20° Max. 6. Hold the rack guide screw stationary with a wrench, and tighten the locknut by hand until it's fully seated. 7. Install the special tool on the locknut (B), and hold the rack guide screw stationary with a wrench. Tighten the locknut an additional 30°with the special tool. Pump Removal and Installation Power Steering Pump: Service and Repair Pump Removal and Installation Replacement 1. Place a suitable container under the vehicle. 2. Drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir. 3. Remove the drive belt (A) from the pump pulley. 4. Remove the pump mounting bolts (B). 5. Cover the auto-tensioner, alternator, and A/C compressor with several shop towels to protect them from spilled power steering fluid. Disconnect the pump inlet hose (C) and pump outlet hose (D) from the pump (E), and plug them. Take care not to spill the fluid on the body or parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once. Do not turn the steering wheel with the pump removed. 6. Cover the opening of the pump with a piece of tape to prevent foreign material from entering the pump. 7. Connect the pump inlet hose and pump outlet hose. 8. Loosely install the pump in the pump bracket with the mounting bolts, then tighten the pump fittings securely. 9. Install the drive belt (A). Note these items during belt installation: ^ Make sure that the belt is properly positioned on the pulleys (B). ^ Do not get power steering fluid or grease on the auto-tensioner, alternator, A/C compressor, and drive belt or pulley faces. Clean off any fluid or grease before installation. 10. Tighten the pump mounting bolts to the specified torque. 11. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line. Page 5268 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6932 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 4467 Component Locations Door Switch: Component Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index Page 1077 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 2694 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) (Part 2) ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Page 5372 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 5453 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 8020 Cigarette Lighter: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 1527 5. Lower the vehicle onto the stands. Page 2497 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Locations Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations Page 3357 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 8576 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 6037 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5501 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 5235 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving With the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve fuel pressure from the system by stopping the fuel pump with the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). 1. Remove the fuel fill Gap. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. From the inspection menu of the Honda PGM Tester or HDS, select Fuel Pump OFF, start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. NOTE: Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the ECM/PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump. - A DTC or a temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them as needed. 5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 6. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 7. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean if it needed. 8. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). Page 1988 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 655 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 4901 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Test Check for continuity between the terminals (A) with the float in the down position and the up position. ^ Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be continuity. ^ Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to MAX (upper) level (B). With the float up, there should be no continuity. Page 7063 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 7091 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Locations 131. Transmission Housing (M/T) Page 1064 Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 Oil Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Replace VTEC Oil Pressure Switch for DTC P2646, P2647 APPLIES TO: 03-05 Accord 4-cylinder 03-05 Element 02-05 CR-V SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop with either of these DTCs? - DTC P2646 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit low voltage) - DTC P2647 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit high voltage) Replacing the VTEC oil pressure switch usually fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then press on with normal troubleshooting. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 120. Right Side Of Engine Compartment Page 8041 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 7639 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 as needed for additional buttons. 5. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. Disclaimer Page 3779 16. Shift Control Solenoid Valve E (A/T) Page 6513 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 6944 Body Control Systems: Testing and Inspection Multiplex Control Unit Input Test Multiplex Control Unit Input Test NOTE: Before continuing with the multiplex control unit input test, do the multiplex troubleshooting. 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors C, E, F, J, K, O, P, Q, X and Y. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 91 219. Fog Light Relay (Honda Accessory) Page 8021 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 6270 Page 285 68. Behind Glove Box Page 6599 Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter This transmitter is no longer available. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 97-99 EV Plus With Factory-Installed Security System 1997-99 EV Plus with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only through Tech Line. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 00-04 Insight With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 2000-04 Insight with factory-installed keyless entry system Driver's Air Bag - Replace Torx Bolts Properly Air Bag: Technical Service Bulletins Driver's Air Bag - Replace Torx Bolts Properly SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2004 TITLE: Replace Drivers Air Bag Torx Bolts Properly APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: When replacing a drivers's side air bag, make sure you replace the torx bolts properly. When removing the bolts, use a high-quality bit, making sure the bit is aligned. DON'T USE AIR TOOLS. When installing bolts, always start the bolts by hand to avoid cross-treading, and torque the bolts to the value listed in the service manual. Page 6722 Ramsey, NJ 07446 800-433-9657 (Visteon offers an open line of credit. Call their 800 number to establish an account.) NOTE: ^ The manufacturer will repair the unit and ship it back within 5-7 working days, via UPS ground prepaid or 2nd Day Air (whichever you requested). Do not forget to include the shipping cost in your dealership payment. Units damaged by misuse or mishandling cannot be shipped back within the usual 5-7 days. ^ Each manufacturer's guarantee for the repair differs. To confirm the repair guarantee, contact the manufacturer using the phone number listed above. 10. To check on the status of your repair order, call the manufacturer. If your customer has any further questions or concerns, have them call Automobile Customer Service at 800-999-1009. NOTE: A damaged unit may need extra repair. If so, the manufacturer will call you with an estimate of any added charges. ^ If you accept the estimate, mail a dealership check for the additional amount to the manufacturer, authorize the increased amount to be applied to the credit card payment, or have the manufacturer ship the unit back to you, and you pay the difference upon arrival (C.O.D.). ^ If you reject the estimate, the faulty unit will be returned to you along with a refund. However, you will be charged $30.00 (C.O.D.) for diagnosis, shipping, and handling. The unit will be shipped back to you, via UPS Ground. COMPLETING THE OUT-OF-WARRANTY/NEW REPLACEMENT AUDIO SYSTEM COMPONENT REPAIR FORM Page 2102 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 1287 8. Insert the dipstick (A) back into the transmission with the handle pointing toward the breather pipe (B). Page 7555 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 4301 4. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) from the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Install the hub (A) and backing plate (B) on the new bearing unit (c) using the special tools and a hydraulic press. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. NOTE: (with ABS) Remove any oil, grease, dust, or other foreign material from the encoder surface (D). - Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. - Be careful not to damage the encoder surface. 7. Install the bearing unit (A) and knuckle (B). Page 5208 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4869 5. Clean the threaded portions of clevis A, and coat the threads of the clevis with grease. Clean the sliding surface of clevis B. and coat the sliding surface of clevis B with grease. Install clevises A and B on the adjuster (C), and shorten clevis A by turning the adjuster. 6. Reinstall the brake shoe adjuster assembly (D), and hook the lower return spring (E) on the parking brake shoes. 7. Hook the rod spring (A) to the connecting rod (B) first with the spring end (C) pointing downward. Then hook the rod spring to the parking brake shoe, and install the connecting rod on the parking brake shoes. 8. Reinstall the tension pins (A) and retainer springs (B). Make sure the tension pin does not contact the parking brake lever. Page 1339 - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. After you reconnect the battery: - Do the engine idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the radio anti-theft code, enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Page 6742 Speaker: Service and Repair Speaker Replacement Door Speaker: 1. Remove the speaker cover (A). 2. Remove the three screws, then disconnect the 2P connector (B) from the speaker (C). Tweeter (EX model): 1. Remove the A-pillar trim. Page 4988 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 7165 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Page 158 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 8557 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 4883 6. If the clearance is incorrect, loosen the star locknut (A), and turn the adjuster (B) in or out to adjust. Adjust the clearance while the specified vacuum is applied to the booster. Hold the yoke (C) while adjusting. 7. Tighten the star locknut securely. 8. Remove the special tool (D). 9. Check the pushrod length (A) as shown if the booster is removed. If the length is incorrect, loosen the pushrod locknut (B), and turn the yoke (C) in or out to adjust. 10. Install the master cylinder. Page 6072 Page 2250 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3301 Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 6315 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 4139 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Page 8025 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Locations Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations Page 7392 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer Page 1879 13. Right Side Of Engine Page 6630 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Passport (Except 1995-1/2) 1994-95 Passport (except 19951A) with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be accepted. Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 2047 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 7767 114. Right Side Of Tailgate Page 3185 Canister Purge Control Valve: Service and Repair EVAP Canister Purge Valve Replacement 1. Disconnect the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector (A). 2. Remove the harness clips (B), the bolts (C) and the hoses (D), then remove the EVAP canister purge valve assembly (E). 3. Remove the screws (A). 4. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve (B) from the bracket. 5. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal. Page 7093 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing airbag system service. Observe the instructions described, or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. - Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. - Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. - Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks, or deformation. - Before removing any SRS parts (including disconnection of connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. - Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. - Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. - The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code and write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before disconnecting the battery cable. - Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the radio code, then enter the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock. Do the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure and the power window control unit resetting procedure. Page 6648 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 4755 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 871 Starting System Component Location Index Page 6518 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 3484 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 5314 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 840 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Page 6212 Deploying the Airbags/Tensioner (Outside Vehicle) Airbag Disposal Special Tool Required Deployment tool 07HAZ-SG00500 Before scrapping any airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), they must be deployed. If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District Parts and Service Manager must give approval and/or special instruction before deploying the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners. Only after the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners have been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for example), can they be scrapped. If the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, and seat belt buckle tensioners appear intact (not deployed), treat them with extreme caution. Follow this procedure. Deploying Components Out of the Vehicle If an intact airbag or tensioner has been removed from a scrapped vehicle, or has been found defective or damaged during transit, storage, or service, it should be deployed as follows: 1. Confirm that the special tool is functioning properly by following the check procedure or on the tool label. 2. Position the airbag face up, outdoors, on flat ground, at least 30 feet (10 meters) from any obstacles or people. 3. Follow steps 9 through 12 of the in-vehicle deployment procedure. Deployment Tool Check Procedure Deployment Tool Check 1. Connect the yellow clips to both switch protector handles on the tool; connect the tool to a battery. 2. Push the operation switch: green means the tool is OK; red means the tool is faulty. 3. Disconnect the battery and the yellow clips. Disposal of Damaged Components Disposal of Damaged Components 1. If installed in a vehicle, follow the removal procedure for the driver's airbag, front passenger's airbag, side airbag, seat belt tensioner, and seat belt buckle tensioner. 2. In all cases, make a short circuit by cutting, stripping, and twisting together the like-colored inflator wires. NOTE: The driver's and passenger's airbag each have four wires: twist each pair of like-colored wires together. 3. Package the component in the same packaging that the new replacement part came in. 4. Mark the outside of the box "DAMAGED AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED", "DAMAGED SIDE AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED", "DAMAGED SEAT BELT TENSIONER NOT DEPLOYED" or "DAMAGED SEAT BELT BUCKLE TENSIONER NOT DEPLOYED" so it does not get confused with your parts stock. 5. Contact your Honda District Parts and Service Manager for how and where to return the part for disposal. Page 8096 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7235 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Diagrams 47. Hatch Latch Switch 74. Tailgate Latch Switch, Left 74. Tailgate Latch Switch, Right Page 5361 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4113 shift cable end. Secure the control pin with the spring clip (D). ^ 6 Secure the shift cable bracket (B) with the bolts (A), and install the shift cable cover (C), but do not tighten the bolts. ^ 7 Tighten the front bolt (L) on the cover first, then the lower bolt (M), and lastly the middle bolt (N). 12. 2WD model: Replace the shift cable. ^ 1 Remove the shift cable cover (A). ^ 2 Remove the spring clip (B) and control pin (C), then separate the shift cable (D) from the selector control lever (E). ^ 3 Remove the bolts securing the shift cable bracket (F). ^ 4 Replace the shift cable, and insert it through the grommet hole. Do not bend the shift cable excessively. ^ 5 Attach the shift cable end (D) to the selector control lever (E), then insert the control pin (C) into the selector control lever hole through the shift cable end, and secure the control pin with the spring clip (B). ^ 6 Secure the shift cable bracket (F) with the bolt, and install the shift cable cover (A), but do not tighten the bolts. ^ 7 Tighten the front bolt (G) on the cover first, then the lower bolt (H), and lastly the middle bolt (I). 13. Install the shift cable bracket (A) on the body, then install the grommet (B) in its hole (C). Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Fuse Block: Customer Interest Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 5068 17. Starter Solenoid Page 6840 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 6011 Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 5425 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2382 50. IAT Sensor Page 4147 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 94. Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) 102. Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) Service and Repair Front Door Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Front Door Weatherstrip Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the door. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. At the A-pillar, remove the door checker mounting bolt (A). 2. Detach the clips (B, C), then remove the door weatherstrip (D). 3. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Push the clips into place securely. - Make sure the weatherstrip is installed in the holder (E) securely. - Apply liquid thread lock to the door checker mounting bolt before installation. - Check for water leaks. - Test-drive and check for wind noise. Page 5690 Steering Gear: Service and Repair Overhaul Steering Gearbox Overhaul Special Tools Required ^ Cylinder end seal remover attachment 07NAD-SR30200 or 07NAD-SR3020A ^ Driver, 27 mm 07ZAF-S5A0100 ^ Valve seal ring sizing tool 07NAG-SR30900 or 07NAG-SR3090A ^ Sleeve seal ring guide 07YAG-S2X0100 ^ Sleeve seal ring sizing tool, 36 mm 07ZAG-S5A0100 ^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100 Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Piston seal ring guide, 42 mm 07ZAG-S7A0100 ^ Piston seal ring sizing tool, 42 mm 07ZAG-S7A0200 ^ Pilot collar 07GAF-PH70100 ^ Locknut wrench 07ZAA-S5A0100 ^ Driver handle 07NAD-SR30101 ^ Cylinder end seal slider, 23 mm 07974-6890801 or 07974-689080A ^ Valve seal ring guide 07ZAG-S5A0200 ^ Pincers, Oetiker 1098 or equivalent, commercially available. Page 8040 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1742 Engine Oil: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Warm up the engine. 2. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil. 3. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B). 4. Refill with the recommended oil. Capacity 4.0 L (4.2 US qt) at oil change. 4.2 L (4.4 US qt) at oil change including filter. 5.3 L (5.6 US qt) after engine overhaul. 5. Run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage. Page 2643 96. ELD Unit Page 679 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Knock Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the knock sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the knock sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 5700 44. Apply power steering fluid to the surface of the pinion shaft (A). Slide the sleeve (B) onto the pinion shaft by aligning the locating pin (C) on the inside of the sleeve with the cutout (D) in the shaft. Then install the new external snap ring (E) securely in the pinion shaft groove. Be careful not to damage the valve seal ring when inserting the sleeve. 45. Apply power steering fluid to the seal ring lip of the new valve oil seal (A), then install the seal in the valve housing (B) using a hydraulic press and special tools. Install the seal with its grooved side facing the tool. 46. Press the roller bearing (c) into the valve housing with a hydraulic press and special tool. 47. Apply vinyl tape (A) to the pinion shaft, then coat the vinyl tape with power steering fluid. 48. Insert the pinion shaft into the valve housing (B). Be careful not to damage the valve seal rings (C) and valve oil seal sealing lip (D). 49. Remove the vinyl tape from the pinion shaft, then remove any residue from the tape adhesive. Page 7596 5. Check your work by running your fingers over the cleaned and lubricated surface to feel for any remaining contamination. ^ If you feel any particles on the cleaned surface fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk shape, clean the section again, and recheck your work. ^ If the cleaned surface feels smooth, fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk shape, and go to step 6. NOTE: You must carefully fold and knead the clay to keep a clean side next to the paint surface. Never use clay that has fallen on the ground. Any small pieces of dirt or sand that imbed in the clay will scratch the paint surface. If the clay falls on the ground, discard it and get a fresh piece. 6. Clean the remaining sections of the sprayed area (repeat steps 4 and 5). 7. Wipe the lubricant from all the cleaned sections with a clean terry cloth towel. 8. Clean the rest of the affected panel and any additional panels that need cleaning (repeat steps 3 thru 7). 9. Apply the manufacturer's recommended wax or glaze to all the cleaned panels. Disclaimer Page 2858 22. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. lithe symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G301. Page 6239 4. Carefully install the cable reel (A) on the steering column shaft. Then connect the 5P connector (B) and the 4P connector (C). 5. Install the steering column covers. 6. If necessary, center the cable reel. (New replacement cable reels come centered.) Do this by first rotating the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise about two and a half turns until the arrow mark on the cable reel label points straight up. 7. Align the projections on the cable reel with the holes on the steering wheel, and install the steering wheel with a new steering wheel bolt (A). 8. Install the driver's airbag. 9. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 10. After installing the cable reel, confirm proper system operation: - Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. - After the SRS indicator has turned off, turn the steering wheel fully left and right to confirm the SRS indicator does not come on. - Make sure the horn works. - Make sure the cruise control works. Page 6936 Body Control Systems: Electrical Diagrams Multiplex Control System - Circuit Diagram Part 1 Page 203 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 938 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 4668 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 8539 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2300 67. Behind Glove Box Page 1363 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4526 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations Page 666 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor The FTP sensor converts fuel lank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM/PCM during the EVAP leak check. Page 2759 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 3631 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 4093 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Disconnect the park pin switch connector. 11. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). 12. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 13. Cover around the opening of the console with tape to prevent damage to the console. 14. Remove the shift lever assembly. Specifications Ball Joint: Specifications TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Castle Nut Lower ................................................................................................................................. .................................. 54 - 64 Nm (43 - 51 ft. lbs.) Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Keyless Entry Transmitter: All Technical Service Bulletins Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Page 7330 3. Remove the three upper clips and install three new clips. 4. Reinstall all removed parts. Disclaimer Locations Key Reminder Switch: Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index 36. In Steering Column Cover Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 2161 5. Remove the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) cooler hoses (A/T). 6. Remove the upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose from the radiator, then pull up the radiator. 7. Remove the fan shroud assemblies and other parts from the radiator. 8. Install the radiator in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the upper and lower cushions are set securely. 9. Install the bulkhead in the reverse order of removal. Apply body paint to the bulkhead mounting bolts. 10. Fill the radiator with engine coolant and bleed the air. Page 7847 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 2602 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor A Replacement CMP Sensor A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor A connector (A). 3. Remove the bolt (B). 4. Remove CMP sensor A (C). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Testing and Inspection Wheels: Testing and Inspection Wheel Runout Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Check for bent or deformed wheels. 3. Set up the dial gauge as shown, and measure axial runout by turning the wheel. Front and rear wheel axial runout: 4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and measure the radial runout. 5. If the wheel runout is not within the specification, check the wheel bearing end play, and make sure the mating surfaces on the brake disc and the inside of the wheel are clean. 6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service limit, replace the wheel. Page 5055 4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the given specifications, or recondition with # 500 or # 600 sandpaper (B). 5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. 6. Measure the commutator (A) runout. - If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. - If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Page 6743 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A). 3. Remove two mounting screws from the tweeter (B). Woofer (EX model): 1. Remove the dashboard center lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the woofer (B). 3. Remove the four mounting bolts from the woofer. Page 6664 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 7803 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Page 5402 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 6445 4. From under the seat, detach the seat belt switch connector clip (A) and seat belt buckle tensioner connector clip (B). On the driver's seat, detach the harness clip (C). 5. Remove the center cover from the seat; driver's seat, passenger's seat. 6. Detach the harness clip (A), and pull the seat belt switch/tensioner harness (B) out through the space between the seat cushion and the seat linkage (driver's seat), or the hole on the seat track (passenger's seat). 7. Remove the center anchor bolt (C), and remove the seat belt buckle (D). 8. Install the seat belt buckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Apply liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolt before reinstallation. - Assemble the washers on the center anchor bolt as shown. - If the seat belt tensioner has been deployed, replace the front seat belt protector with a new one. - Apply liquid thread lock to the seat mounting bolts before reinstallation. - Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio stations presets. - Reset the clock. - Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. Page 4752 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4098 5. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 6. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 7. Remove the O/D switch harness clamp from the shift lever bracket and from the harness, and pull the O/D switch harness out to remove the shift lever assembly. 8. Remove the shift lock solenoid harness clamp from the shift lever bracket, and remove the shift lock solenoid. 9. Remove the park pin switch from the shift lever bracket. 10. Replace the shift lever/bracket assembly. 11. Install the shift lock solenoid (A) on the shift lever/ bracket assembly (B) with aligning the shift lock solenoid plunger (C) with the tip of the shift lock stop (D). 12. Install the harness clamp (E) on the shift lock solenoid harness (F) at 128 - 138 mm (5.0 - 5.4 inch) (G) from the harness terminal end. 13. Install the clamp in the hole (H) of the shift lever bracket. 14. Install the shift lever ring (A) to the shift lever (B). 15. Insert the O/D switch harness (C) into the shift lever ring, and route the harness through the groove (D) of the shift lever into the hole (E). Do not pinch the harness. Page 3832 8. Insert the dipstick (A) back into the transmission with the handle pointing toward the breather pipe (B). Page 555 Page 5334 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 8677 How to Identify Connector Terminals Service and Repair Front Door Window Regulator: Service and Repair Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover, as necessary 2. Carefully lower the glass (A) until you can see the bolts, then remove them. Carefully pull the glass out through the window slot. Take care not to drop the glass inside the door. 3. Disconnect and detach the connector (A) and harness clips (B) from the door. 4. Remove the bolts (C), and loosen the bolts (D), then remove the regulator (E) through the hole in the door. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle Idle Speed: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 4123 Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information 89-022 May 16, 2008 Applies To: Vehicles With an In-Radiator ATF Cooler - ALL ATF Cooler Cleaner (Supersedes 89-022, dated June 18, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks) Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured A/T, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat A/T failure. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (PIN GTHTTCF6H) is a portable, electrically operated special tool that cleans the ATF cooler with high- pressure, heated ATF. This cleaning action melts down waxy varnish residue left by burnt ATF and purges metal particles, clutch material, and other contaminants. The ATF Cooler Cleaner has these features: ^ Quick-connect fittings and color-coded hoses for easy hookup. ^ Uses about 9.5 gallons of Honda ATF-Z1, which gets filtered and recirculated. ^ Heats ATF to a temperature of 1400 to 150°F and then pumps it through the ATF cooler at high pressure (100 psi) using a pulsating action and air purging. Switching the hoses cleans the ATF cooler in the reverse direction. ^ Two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters to trap purged contaminants. ^ Built-in tool tray. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire ATF cooler cleaning process. *REQUIRED MATERIALS Honda ATF-Z1: P/N 08200-9001 Magnetic Nonbypass Spin-On Filter: T/N GTHNBP12 (12-pack) T/N GTHNBP2 (6-pack) T/N GTHGNBP22 (2-pack) ORDERING INFORMATION Additional ATF cooler cleaners or magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters can be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order on the iN, click on SERVICE, then Service Bay, then Tool and Equipment Program. From the Tool and Equipment Program menu, click on the Online Catalog tab, and then search for the desired filter pack by part number.* Diagnostic Aids Alternator: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 5796 Rear Subframe Torque NOTE: After loosening the subframe mounting bolts be sure to replace them with new ones. Page 3695 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and connect the DLC cable to the vehicle's DLC. In the Updating Honda Control Modules screen, click on the check mark. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. NOTE: Update the Systems one at a time. 4. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark. Page 1557 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 4300 Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement 1. Remove the brake hose mounting bracket (A). 2. Separate the bearing unit (A) from the knuckle (B). 3. Separate the hub (A) and backing plate (B) from bearing unit (C) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the bearing unit with a press attachment (D) or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 5322 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3316 Fuel Line Inspection Part 2 Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Page 1284 Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) ........................................................................................................................................................... Honda ATF-Z1 Page 3498 Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection Spark Plug Inspection 1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Plug heat range too hot - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Plug heat range too cold - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coils 2. Do not adjust the gap (A) of iridium tip plugs; replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Page 826 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Specifications Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Type NGK ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. IZFR6K-11 DENSO ................................................................................................................................................ ....................................................... SKJ20DR-M11 Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 13 ft lb (18 Nm) Gap ..................................................................... ................................................................................................................ 0.039-0.043 inch (1.0-1.1 mm) Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 501 6. Oil Pressure Switch Page 8673 Wire Color Codes Page 198 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 178 134. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) 135. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 4279 11. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess 5 to 10 mm (0.2 to 0.4 in.) from the clip. 12. Secure the end of the boot band by tapping it down over the clip with a hammer. 13. Make sure that the boot band and clip do not interfere with anything and that the band does not move. 14. If necessary, repeat steps 5 through 13 to install the boot band on the small end of the boot. Disclaimer Locations Air Bag Control Module: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 2130 Disclaimer Page 7190 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Page 6659 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index Page 2693 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) (Part 1) Page 7646 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 as needed for additional buttons. 5. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. Disclaimer Page 6723 Page 1428 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 1367 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Spring-Loaded Lock Connector Side Air Bag: Service and Repair Spring-Loaded Lock Connector Spring-Loaded Lock Connector / Side Airbag Connector Disconnecting To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) and the slider (B) while holding the opposite half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not on the connector half. Connecting Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (C) of the sleeve-side connector clicks. Page 4138 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Component Locations Door Switch: Component Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index Page 3959 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 8679 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3701 13. The green No.1 LED stays on, and the yellow No. 2 LED blinks. This indicates that the control uniti module is being updated. NOTE: To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update. 14. When the yellow No.2 LED stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the green No.1 and the yellow No.2 LEDs stay on, the control unit/module is updated. 16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HIM from the vehicle. To do the same update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps 11 thru 16. Diagnosing HIM Error Codes If the red No.3 LED on the HIM came on or was flashing during the update, do this: 1. Leave the ignition switch in ON (II) while you disconnect the HIM from the vehicle's DLC. 2. If not already done, load the latest HDS sofiware onto the iN workstation. 3. Connect the HIM to the iN workstation. Connect the small end of the PC interface cable to the PC port on the HIM. 4. If not already done, connect the PC end of the blue PC interface cable to the 9P serial port on the iN workstation. 5. Connect the 110 VACIl 2 VDC power supply to the HIM and to a wall outlet. 6. Restart the CM Update application on the iN workstation. 7. On the right side of the screen, click on the view error button. 8. Click on View Error at the bottom of the screen to display the problem encountered while the HIM was connected to the vehicle. ^ If you get a Code 40 error message (usually caused by a communication error between the HIM and the workstation), do this: - Do the HIM self-test procedure (see HIM Self-Test). - Move the blue PC interface cable to another communication port on the back of the computer. - If one of the communication ports on the back of the computer has another cable connected to it, disconnect that cable, leave it disconnected during the HIM procedure, and connect the blue PC interface cable to that port. - Connect the HIM to another computer. (Some iN workstations require an internal communication port setup procedure. For help, call the iN Support Center) ^ If you get a Code 50 error message (usually caused by a communications error between the HIM and the vehicle's DLC), do this: - Diagnose and clear any DTCs. (The control unit/module must be free of DTCs before you can update it.) - Make sure there's a good connection between the HIM and the DLC. - Retry the update using the procedures in this service bulletin or on the back of the HIM. - If needed, call Tech Line for further help. HIM Self-Test If you suspect there's a problem with the HIM, review the instructions in this service bulletin to make sure you are using it correctly. If you still think there's a problem, do this self-test: Testing and Inspection Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve: Testing and Inspection PCV Valve Inspection and Test 1. Check the PCV valve (A), hoses (B), and connections for leaks or restrictions. 2. At idle, make sure there is a clicking sound from the PCV valve when the hose between the PCV valve and intake manifold is lightly pinched (A) with your fingers or pliers. If there is no clicking sound, check the PCV valve washer for cracks or damage. If the washer is OK, replace the PCV valve and recheck. Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Lock: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 5902 4. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) from the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Install the hub (A) and backing plate (B) on the new bearing unit (c) using the special tools and a hydraulic press. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. NOTE: (with ABS) Remove any oil, grease, dust, or other foreign material from the encoder surface (D). - Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. - Be careful not to damage the encoder surface. 7. Install the bearing unit (A) and knuckle (B). Page 8484 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 3216 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Page 5226 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Procedures Trim Panel: Procedures Shift Lever Trim Removal Installation NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Do not pry the panel surface with a flat-tip screwdriver, to prevent damage. - Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts. 1. Remove these items: - Center lower cover - Woofer, for some models 2. M/T model: Remove the shift knob (A). 3. Using the handle end of a hammer (A), carefully insert the handle through the center lower cover opening, and push on the back side of the shift lever trim (B) to start to release the clips. 4. Pull out the shift lever trim (A) to release the remaining clips (B), hooks (C), and disconnect hazard warning switch connector (D). 5. Install the panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure each connector is plugged in properly. - Push the clip and hook portions into place securely. Page 4653 Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 5309 Page 5381 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Body - Liftgate Rattles/Hatch Open Indicator On Tailgate Striker: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Liftgate Rattles/Hatch Open Indicator On 04-022 March 8, 2008 Applies To: 2003-08 Element - ALL Hatch Open Indicator On, Rear Interior Light On, or Tailgate Rattles (Supersedes 04-022, dated April 13, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks) SYMPTOM The rear hatch open indicator or rear interior light comes on and/or the tailgate rattles. PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect striker position and/or improperly adjusted cushions. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check the striker and cushion adjustments. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 823380 Flat Rate Time: 0.2 hour Failed Part: P/N 74813-SCV-A01 H/C 7286032 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03228 Template ID: 04-022A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. With the hatch open, compare the level of the tailgate to the level of the taillights. The tailgate edge should be recessed 1 to 2 mm in relation to the taillight. ^ If the measurement is correct, go to step 3. ^ If the measurement is not correct, go to step 2. Page 220 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing airbag system service. Observe the instructions described, or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. - Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. - Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. - Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks, or deformation. - Before removing any SRS parts (including disconnection of connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. - Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. - Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. - The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code and write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before disconnecting the battery cable. - Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the radio code, then enter the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock. Do the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure and the power window control unit resetting procedure. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) Oxygen Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) 03-027 May 6, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Accord L4 2-door- From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A020275 2003 Accord L4 4-door- From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A071758 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C073601 2003 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1...3L006131 2003 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...3L000001 thru 5J6YH2...3L014546 MIL Comes On With DTC P2A00 (P2900) SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P2A00 (P2900)* [Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range Performance Problem]. * If you use the PGM Tester to retrieve codes, you may see DTC P2900; it's the same as DTC P2A00. PROBABLE CAUSE The air fuel ratio sensor is faulty. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for DTC P2A00 (P2900). If P2A00 (P2900) is present, replace the air fuel ratio sensor, and clear the DTC. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 36531-RAA-A01 H/C 7136187 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C99 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. PARTS INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or the PGM Tester to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector), and check for DTCs. Multiplex Control System Troubleshooting Body Control Systems: Testing and Inspection Multiplex Control System Troubleshooting Troubleshooting Special Tool Required: MPCS Service Connector 07WAZ-001010A 1. Check the No. 9 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Find and repair the cause of the blown fuse. 2. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 3. Switch the ceiling light to the middle position. Close all doors. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). If the driver's seat belt is unbuckled, the beeper will beep five times. 4. Check self-diagnosis function Mode 1 for a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) by connecting the special tool (A) to the multiplex control inspection connector (B). After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light and ceiling light should come on for 2 seconds, go out, then blink once for 0.2 second. This means that you are in Mode 1 of the self-diagnosis function. NOTE: To cancel Mode 1, disconnect the MPCS service connector from the multiplex control inspection connector for more than 10 seconds or turn the ignition switch OFF. Did the blinking lights confirm that you are in Mode 1? YES - Count the blinks, then go to step 5. NO - See if the SCS circuit is working properly, then go to step 6. 5. Check for continuity between the connector J of under-dash fuse/relay box No. 4 terminal and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box. Replace and check for DTCs. NO - Repair the open in the wire or poor ground (G301), and recheck for DTCs. 6. If there is a DTC, it will blink, pause, then repeat the DTC as long as the ignition switch is ON (II). Is there a repeating DTC? Page 4124 TOOL DESCRIPTION CLEANING PROCEDURE The cleaning procedure involves hot fluid under high pressure. Check the security of all hoses and connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing. If you get ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately. Improper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries. Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow all instructions in this bulletin. 1. Plug the ATF cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet. NOTICE Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light cord; you would damage the unit. 2. Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140° to 150°F.) Page 994 Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Master Switch Input Test Master Switch Input Test NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations. 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Remove the power window master switch (A). 3. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the master switch. 4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 5. 5. With the 14P connector still disconnected from the switch connector, and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6. Page 8493 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8524 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 4972 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 3545 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Update the PCM How to Update the PCM NOTE: ^ To ensure the latest program is installed, update a PCM whenever the PCM is substituted or replaced. You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. ^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. To prevent PCM damage, do not operate any electrical system; audio system, brakes, air conditioning, power windows, moonroof, and door locks, during the update. ^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the DLC. This will prevent PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda interface module (HIM) to the DLC located under the left end of the dash. 3. Update the PCM according to the procedures described on the HIM label. If the software in the PCM is the latest, replace the PCM. Page 8498 Diagram 115-0 Page 4153 Standard: 50 Ohms - 25 k Ohms 9. If the resistance is out of standard, replace the shift solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not available separately from the shift solenoid harness. 10. Disconnect the connectors from the shift solenoid valves. 11. Connect the shift solenoid valve A connector (BLU wire) with the ATF temperature sensor (F) on the new solenoid harness. 12. Connect the solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the new O-ring (G) on the shift solenoid harness connector (H), and install the connector in the transmission housing. 14. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 15. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 16. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 17. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. 18. Remove the transmission jack. 19. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 4582 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Update the PCM How to Update the PCM NOTE: ^ To ensure the latest program is installed, update a PCM whenever the PCM is substituted or replaced. You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. ^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. To prevent PCM damage, do not operate any electrical system; audio system, brakes, air conditioning, power windows, moonroof, and door locks, during the update. ^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the DLC. This will prevent PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda interface module (HIM) to the DLC located under the left end of the dash. 3. Update the PCM according to the procedures described on the HIM label. If the software in the PCM is the latest, replace the PCM. Page 6713 1. Print out the appropriate system worksheet from an Interactive Network (iN) workstation. ^ From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE. ^ Click on (ISIS) Service Publications. ^ Click on SEARCH BY PUBLICATION. ^ Click on Job Aids. ^ Click on Audio System Worksheet, Navigation System Worksheet, or Rear Entertainment System Worksheet. 2. Duplicate and confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or have the customer demonstrate the problem, then write down the results on the worksheet. Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX (if applicable) in the applicable service manual, find the symptom that matches the customers complaint, and follow the diagnostic procedure: ^ Refer to the appropriate section in the service manual, or ^ From the iN main menu: - Click on SERVICE. - Click on ISIS (Service Publications). - Click on SEARCH BY VEHICLE. - Enter the model and the model year. - Enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES, and the DTC (if applicable) - Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or Symptom Troubleshooting from the list. 3. Repair the vehicle according to your diagnosis, then confirm the repair by trying to duplicate the customer's original complaint, or check to see if the DTC returns: ^ If the problem is gone, return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the problem is still there, go to step 4. 4. Replace the audio/navigation/RES unit with a remanufactured unit: Page 1647 80. VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 6284 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 1705 8. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). 11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Page 1788 121. Right Side Of Engine Page 7378 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 7936 33. Left Side Of Dash 34. Inside Steering Wheel Page 5417 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 8620 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 8155 40. Remove the glove box, and remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 41. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E9 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse and the ECM/PCM (E9), or between the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Go to step 42. 42. Remove the center console, both track floor covers, and both door sill trims. 43. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. 44. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 45. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the fuel pump and PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Go to step 46. Page 5225 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 1369 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 258 Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. Page 7932 Cruise Control Servo Cable: Service and Repair Cruise Control Actuator/Cable Replacement 1. Loosen the locknut (A), then remove the actuator cable (B) from the throttle linkage. 2. Turn the connector to disconnect it from the actuator, then remove the cable from the actuator. 3. Disconnect the 12P connector (A) from the cruise control actuator (B). 4. Remove the two mounting bolts from the mounting bracket. 5. Remove the three mounting bolts attaching the cruise control actuator to the mounting bracket. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal, and adjust the free play at the throttle linkage after connecting the actuator cable. Page 6016 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 5189 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 2658 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 3328 Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 7297 5. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connector (A) from the rear door wire harness. Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner 6. Disconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connector (A). SRS Unit 7. Disconnect SRS unit connector A, SRS unit connector B, or SRS unit connector C from the SRS unit. Page 3281 - When connecting or disconnecting the fuel feed hose, fuel line, fuel vapor line, and quick-connect fittings, be careful not to bend or twist them excessively. Replace them if they are damaged. A disconnected quick-connect fitting can be reconnected, but the retainer on the mating line cannot be reused once it has been removed from the line. Replace the retainer when - replacing the fuel rail. - replacing the fuel line. - replacing the fuel pump. - replacing the fuel filter. - replacing the fuel gauge sending unit. - it has been removed from the line. - it is damaged. Auxiliary Jack Connector Auxiliary Jack Connector Replacement - EX Model Page 8174 consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. WARRANTY MILEAGE CONVERSION NOTE: Follow normal warranty claim coding when submitting a claim. SERVICE BULLETINS AFFECTED BY EXTENDED MILEAGE COVERAGE Disclaimer Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 7377 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 1834 Page 3231 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid valve A terminal. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve moves. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A body. Page 4187 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Have an assistant press the clutch pedal while you grasp the clutch line at the clutch master cylinder, and then at the slave cylinder. If you feel a vibration through the clutch line when you hear the noise or the noise stops, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. If you feel no vibration or the noise does not stop, look for other causes. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTICE Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Remove the clutch master cylinder. Refer to the appropriate service manual: 2003-04 Accord (L4): page 12-6 2003-04 Accord (V6): page 12-8 2001-04 Civic: page 12-5 2002-04 Civic Si: page 12-5 2003-04 Civic Hybrid: page 13-5 2002-04 CR-V: page 12-5 2003-04 Element: page 12-6 Enter keyword CLUTCH MASTER, and select Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement from the list. 2. Install the new clutch master cylinder, but do not attach the clutch line fitting. 3. Apply a thin coat of silicone grease to the clutch line fitting and to the opening in the clutch master cylinder. Do not use silicone spray; it could damage the 0-ring. 4. Connect the clutch line fitting to the clutch master cylinder. 5. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system, then top off the reservoir with brake fluid. 6. Check to see if the noise is gone when pressing the clutch pedal. ^ If the noise is gone, the repair is complete. Page 603 8. Horn Switch Page 5080 Page 1376 Fuse: Connector Views 212. Fog Light In-Line Fuse (Honda Accessory) 216. Trailer Lighting In-line Fuse (Honda Accessory) Page 5418 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6050 45. Evaporator Temperature Sensor (EX; Canada: DX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Service and Repair Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair Cowl Cover Replacement 1. Remove the windshield wiper arms. 2. Remove the passenger's cowl cover (A) and the driver's cowl cover (B).Take care not to scratch the body. 1. Using a clip remover, detach the clips (C), then remove the hood rear seal (D). 2. Using a clip remover, remove the clips (E) from the cowl covers. 3. Release the windshield washer tube (F). 4. Detach the clips (G, H) and release the hooks (I, J) by carefully pulling the passenger's cowl cover upward. 5. Pull the cover forward to release the hooks (K), and pull the hinge cover (L) out from the front fender (M), then remove the passenger's cowl cover. 6. Detach the clips (G, H, N), and release the hook (0) by carefully pulling the driver's cowl cover upward. 7. Pull the cover forward to release the hooks (P), and pull the hinge cover (Q) out from the front fender (R), then remove the driver's cowl cover. 3. Install the cowl covers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips and hooks into place securely. Page 2287 Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. Page 5487 210. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Diagrams 215. Security LED (Honda Accessory) Page 5173 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 7835 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Page 6243 54. MES Connector Page 1112 Idle Speed: By Symptom Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Page 8580 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Interior Lights Component Location Index Page 5691 NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure. Removal 1. Remove the steering gearbox. Disassembly 2. Remove cylinder lines (A) and return line joint (B) from the gearbox. 3. Drain the fluid from the cylinder fittings by slowly moving the steering rack back and forth. 4. Unbend the lock washers (A). 5. Hold the bracket (A) with one wrench, and unscrew both rack ends (B) with another wrench. Remove the lock washers. Page 8379 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6803 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 1977 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 6610 Page 1486 Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires- Edge Wear Is Normal SOURCE: Honda Service News December 2004 TITLE: Element Tire Edge Wear Is Normal APPLIES TO: 2003-05 Element SERVICE TIP: Have you gotten any complaints of tire edge wear from owners? Due to the shape and tread design of the tire, normal tread wear can look like accelerated edge wear on these tires. This wear doesn't affect the tire's performance. Remaining tread life should always be measured at the tread grooves. If you suspect the tire wear isn't normal, check if the tires are inflated to the specified cold inflation pressures listed on the doorjamb sticker and the wheel alignment is within spec. Also check if your customer is following the recommended tire rotation schedule in the O/M. If the vehicle checks out OK, and your customer has been faithfully following the tire rotation schedule, then check with the tire manufacturer for warranty resolution. Page 7452 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Odyssey EX 1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *2001-04 Odyssey EX models with factory- installed security system* *Transmitter Identification Page 2961 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor B Replacement CMP Sensor B Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve. 3. Disconnect the CMP sensor B connector (A). 4. Remove CMP sensor B (B). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Front Suspension Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement Special Tools Required Hub disassembly tool 07GAF-SD40100 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 - Driver 07749-0010000 - Support base 07965-SD90100 - Ball joint thread protector 07AAF-SDAA100 Knuckle and Hub Replacement 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 5970 Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 5319 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 3340 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 6230 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair OPDS Unit Replacement OPDS Unit Replacement NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure in the Body section before doing repairs or service. Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the passenger's side airbag harness 2P connector. 3. Remove the front passenger's seat assembly and seat-back cover. 4. Remove the cover (A), then disconnect the OPDS unit harness 8P and sensor connectors (B) from the OPDS unit (C). 5. Remove the two screws (D) and the OPDS unit. Installation 1. Place the new OPDS unit (A) on the front passenger's seat-back frame. Tighten the two screws (B), and connect the OPDS unit harness 8P and sensor connectors (C) to the OPDS unit. Reinstall the cover (D). 2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then connect the side airbag harness 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 5. Set the seat-back in a normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the seat. 6. Initialize the OPDS unit. 7. After installing the OPDS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 1636 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7027 4. Remove the bolts, then remove the upper latch (A). 5. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the connector is plugged in properly, and cable is connected securely. - Make sure the door locks and opens properly. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 4500 7. Carefully remove the windshield. 8. With a knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in.) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. - Remove the rubber dam and fasteners from the body. 9. Clean the body bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the clean surface. 10. If the old windshield is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive, the rubber dam, and the dashboard seal from the windshield. Clean the inside face and the edge of the windshield with alcohol where new adhesive is to be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease. Locations Timing Component Alignment Marks: Locations Caution: Incorrect removal or installation of the timing belt can result in damage to internal engine components. For complete Timing Chain Removal and Installation information, please refer to Timing Chain; Service and Repair. Page 6397 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Testing and Inspection Air Conditioning Switch: Testing and Inspection A/C Pressure Switch Circuit Troubleshooting NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if any of these items are working properly with the A/C switch on; condenser fan, radiator fan and A/C compressor, or the heater does not work. Refer to the symptom troubleshooting index. See: Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Turn the blower switch on, and check for blower motor operation. Does the blower motor run correctly on all speeds? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Troubleshoot the blower motor circuit. 3. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 2P connector and body ground. Is there 5V or more? YES - Go to step6. NO - Go to step 12. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C pressure switch. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Go to step 14. 8. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. 9. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector. 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 8308 Page 714 Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Secondary HO2S Replacement Secondary HO2S Replacement Special Tools Required O2 sensor wrench. Snap-on YA8875, SP Tools 93750, or equivalent, commercially available 1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B). 2. Install the secondary HO2S in the reverse order of removal. Service and Repair Overdrive Switch: Service and Repair O/D Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 6160 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6049 47. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 8320 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Locations Page 6420 2. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner. Insert the cloth between the seat belt and metal loop on the upper anchor. Use a credit card or similar item to help insert the cloth into the loop. Work the cloth back and forth to clean the dirt out of the inside of the loop. 3. Pull the seat belt out fully. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner, and clean both sides of the seat belt webbing. Dry the webbing thoroughly with a clean cloth. Do not use a hair dryer or similar device. 4. Test the belt for proper retraction by pulling the latch plate down to the floor of the vehicle and then releasing it. The belt should retract fully in 4 seconds or less. Three-Point Passive Seat Belts 1. Clean the metal loop in the upper anchor as described for Three-Point Active Seat Belts. 2. Remove the door panel and the seat belt guide. Refer to the appropriate service manual. 3. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner, and clean both sides of the seat belt webbing. Dry the webbing thoroughly with a clean cloth. Do not use a hair dryer or similar device. Page 8152 21. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminal E31 to body ground with a jumper wire. 22. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the MIL on? YES - Go to step 23. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E31) and the gauge assembly. 23. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 24. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 25. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and read the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS communicate with the ECM/PCM? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Go to "DLC Circuit Troubleshooting". 26. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 27. Inspect the No.20 IG (50A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Check for open in the wire between the No, 20 IG (50A) fuse and the ignition switch. If the wire is OK, go to step 28. NO - Repair short in the wire between No.20 IG (50 A) fuse and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Also replace the No.20 IG (50A) fuse. 28. Inspect the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 35. NO - Go to step 29. 29. Remove the blown No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse from the under-food fuse/relay box. 30. Remove the glove box, and remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (A). Page 6471 Seat Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Deploying Airbags/Tensioner (Outside Vehicle) Airbag Disposal Special Tool Required Deployment tool 07HAZ-SG00500 Before scrapping any airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), they must be deployed. If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District Parts and Service Manager must give approval and/or special instruction before deploying the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners. Only after the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners have been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for example), can they be scrapped. If the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, and seat belt buckle tensioners appear intact (not deployed), treat them with extreme caution. Follow this procedure. Deploying Components Out of the Vehicle If an intact airbag or tensioner has been removed from a scrapped vehicle, or has been found defective or damaged during transit, storage, or service, it should be deployed as follows: 1. Confirm that the special tool is functioning properly by following the check procedure or on the tool label. 2. Position the airbag face up, outdoors, on flat ground, at least 30 feet (10 meters) from any obstacles or people. 3. Follow steps 9 through 12 of the in-vehicle deployment procedure. Page 7436 Page 781 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 8489 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 4801 6. Install the pad retainers. 7. Apply Molykote M77 grease (P/N 08798-9010) to both sides of the pad shims (A), the back of the pads (B), and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake discs and pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads. 8. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the pads with the wear indicators (C) on the inside. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency. 9. Push in the piston (A) so that the caliper will fit over the pads. Check the brake fluid level. The brake fluid may overflow if the reservoir is too full. Make sure that the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when installing the caliper. 10. Apply Molykote M77 grease (P/N 08798-9010) to the piston edges (B) on their mating surfaces against the inner pad. 11. Install the brake caliper (C) and caliper bolts (D), and torque them to the specified torque while holding the pin (E). Be careful not to damage the pin boots. 12. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive. NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 13. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Maintenance Required Indicator Doesn't Reset Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Technical Service Bulletins Maintenance Required Indicator Doesn't Reset SOURCE: Honda Service News February 2003 TITLE: Maintenance Required Indicator Doesn't Reset APPLIES TO: 2001-03 Civics, 2002-03 Civic Sis, 2003 Civic Hybrids, 2002-03 CR-Vs, and 2003 Elements. SERVICE TIP: Are customers complaining that they can't reset the maintenance required indicator (MAINT REQ'D) on the instrument panel? Find out if the headlights, parking lights, or both were turned on when they tried to reset it. The maintenance required indicator can't be reset if any of these lights are on. In fact, some aftermarket daytime running light devices designed to turn on the headlights, parking lights, or both as soon as you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), must be disabled before the indicator can be reset. Page 2369 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 7736 8. Remove and discard the three nuts. Remove and retain the washers from the outboard front link and from the seat track. Remove and discard the three bushings. 9. Install the three new bushings and the outboard front link. *10. Use brake cleaner to remove grease from any threads before installing the nuts.* Install the original washers and new nuts. Torque the nuts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 11. Remove the center cover (three clips and two hooks) from the inboard seat track. Then remove the seat belt buckle (center anchor bolt, collar, spring washer, and toothed lock washer). Page 6588 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to four transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode. 3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted. 4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters. 5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Civic, 03-04 Accord, Element, Pilot 1999-00 Civic Value Package with factory-installed keyless entry system 1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system Page 3999 12. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal B13. Is there continuity? YES - Test the alternator. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B13) and the alternator. 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 15. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P). 16. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal B13. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B13) and the alternator. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air Heater Blows Cold Air; A/C Blows Warm Air NOTE: This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058), and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off. Page 7100 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Instruments - Fuel Gauge Reads EMPTY After Fill Up Fuel Gauge: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Fuel Gauge Reads EMPTY After Fill Up 03-059 September 23, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Element - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Fuel Gauge Reads Empty and Low Fuel Indicator Blinks SYMPTOM After filling the fuel tank, the fuel gauge reads empty and the low fuel indicator blinks. PROBABLE CAUSE The fuel gauge calibration is incorrect. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the gauge assembly. If required by the Department of Motor Vehicles, fill out an odometer mileage disclosure sticker, and apply it to the driver's doorjamb. Page 5239 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3931 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 4630 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Page 1537 Wire Color Codes Locations Hazard Warning Switch: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Component Location Index Page 6667 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 4230 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Interlock Switch Test 1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector (A). 2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. - If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch interlock switch. - If OK, install the clutch interlock switch and adjust the pedal height. M/T - Clutch Pedal Squeak/Twang or Notchy Feel Hydraulic Hose: Customer Interest M/T - Clutch Pedal Squeak/Twang or Notchy Feel 02-002 January 11, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Squeak at the Clutch Pedal (Supersedes 02-002, dated September 21, 2004) SYMPTOM A squeak, a twang, or a notchy feel when the clutch pedal is pressed. PROBABLE CAUSE The clutch master cylinder spring is rubbing on the outer diameter of the piston when the pedal is pressed, or the master cylinder quick connect is moving. Page 6617 The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Accord, Civic, Del SOL, Prelude & 95 Odyssey 1994-95 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Prelude with dealer-installed security system 1995 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode. 3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted. 4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash after each transmitter code is accepted. 5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 96-98 Civic EX & Except EX, Civic 1996-98 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic with dealer-installed security system Cam Chain Removal Timing Chain: Service and Repair Cam Chain Removal Removal NOTE: Keep the cam chain away from magnetic fields. 1. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its Top Dead Center (TDC) mark (A) lines up with the pointer (B). 2. Remove the front tires/wheels. 3. Remove the splash shield. 4. Remove the drive belt. 5. Remove the cylinder head cover. 6. Check that the No. 1 piston TDC marks (A) on the variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket are aligned. 7. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 8. Disconnect the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connector (A) and VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (B). 9. Remove the VTC oil control solenoid valve. 10. Support the engine with a jack and wood block under the oil pan. Page 3862 18. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 19. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 20. Remove the O/D switch harness clamp from the shift lever bracket and from the harness, and pull the O/D switch harness out to remove the shift lever assembly. 21. Insert the new O/D switch harness (A) into the shift lever ring (B), and route the harness through the groove (C) of the shift lever (D) into the hole (E). Do not pinch the harness. 22. Wind the O/D switch harness (A) one turn around the clamp (B) on the bottom of the shift lever. 23. Install the harness clamp (C) at the reference tape (D) on the harness, then install the clamp in the hole (E) of the shift lever bracket (F). Page 126 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 7364 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer Page 5360 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 7475 2003-04 Accord DX with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Element with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot EX models with factory-installed security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 91-93 Accord 5-D00R EX Page 1844 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 3781 8. Install the new O-rings (two O-rings per a solenoid valve) (F) on the good solenoid valve. The replacement solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. 9. Install shift solenoid valves A, C, and E by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valves until their mounting bolt brackets contact the servo body. NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve B before installing shift solenoid valve E. If solenoid valve B is installed before solenoid valve E, it may damage the hydraulic control system. 10. Install shift solenoid valve B by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valve until its mounting bolt bracket contacts the bracket of installed solenoid. 11. Connect shift solenoid valve A connector (G) with the ATF temperature sensor. 12. Connect solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 14. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 15. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 16. Remove the transmission jack. 17. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 1201 Disclaimer Page 1350 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2) Page 4532 30. ATF Temperature Sensor (A/T) Diagrams 221. Trailer Unit (Honda Accessory) Page 4388 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Page 7586 74. Driver's Door Page 4052 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Page 6148 Page 5639 23. Coat the new 23.8 mm O-ring (A) with power steering fluid, then position it on the bottom (B) of the pump housing. 24. Coat the new cover seals (A) and (B) with power steering fluid, then position them into the grooves on the cover (C). 25. Install the outer case (A) by aligning the slot (B) inside the outer case with the cover roll pin hole (C). Be sure that the slit (D) on the outer case is in the direction shown. 26. Apply power steering fluid to the rubber seal (E) (black), and install it in the slot (F) of the outer case. 27. Apply power steering fluid to the slipper seal (G) (white), and install it on top of the rubber seal you just installed. Page 1851 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 7717 11. Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), then remove the seat cushion cover (B). 12. Install the seat cushion cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the clips and hooks. - Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones using commercially available upholstery ring pliers (B). Page 5324 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7957 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pedal Position Switch Test 1. Disconnect the 2P connector from the clutch pedal position switch (A). 2. Remove the clutch pedal position switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. - If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch pedal position switch. - If OK, install the clutch pedal position switch and adjust the pedal height. Page 5742 13. Press out the compliance bushing from the lower arm using the bushing driver, the bushing receiver set, and a hydraulic press. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the inside of the bushing opening on the lower arm. 14. Clean the mating surfaces of the new compliance bushing and the lower arm. 15. Align the arrows of the new bushing with the mark made in step 2, then press the bushing into the lower arm using the bushing driver, the bushing receiver set, and a hydraulic press. 16. Repeat steps 3 thru 15 on the other lower arm. 17. Reinstall the front lower arms, and note these items: ^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then lower the vehicle to the ground to load the suspension before fully tightening the fasteners to the specified torque. ^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the lower arm to the knuckle. ^ Before connecting the knuckle ball joint to the lower arm, degrease the threaded section and tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section, and the mating surfaces of the castle nut. ^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it. Page 6289 Page 5001 7. Remove the four bolts, then remove the rear housing assembly (A), and washer (B). 8. If you are not replacing the front bearing, go to step 13. Remove the rotor from the drive end housing. 9. Inspect the rotor shaft for scoring, and inspect the bearing journal surface in the drive end housing for seizure marks. - If the rotor is damaged, replace the rotor assembly. - If the rotor is OK, go to step 10. 10. Remove the front bearing retainer plate. Page 2233 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Locations Page 880 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Testing and Inspection PSP Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP SWITCH the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it indicate OFF? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 12. 4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - The PSP switch signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 7. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 11. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM (E16) and the PSP switch. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the PSP switch 2Pconnector. Page 3981 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 1644 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 6224 54. Under Middle Of Dash 156. Side Of Front Passenger's Seat (EX: Side Airbag) Page 633 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor (A). 2. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 2832 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 3842 27. Transmission Housing (A/T) 124. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 7509 Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams 95. Door Lock Knob Switch, Driver's 138. Door Lock Switch, Driver's Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 5380 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2) Component Locations Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 793 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Knock Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the knock sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the knock sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 3. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 4. Remove the ATF pipe (B), ATF joint pipes (C), O-rings (D), and gasket (E). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect it securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 5557 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Page 2107 Heater Core: Service and Repair Heater Unit/Core Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 3. With air conditioning; disconnect the A/C lines from the evaporator core. 4. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). Turn the heater valve arm to the fully opened position as shown. 5. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator. 6. Slide the hose clamps (A) back, then disconnect the inlet heater hose (B) and the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater core. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately. 7. Remove the mounting bolt and the heater valve as shown. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines and the brake lines, etc. 8. Remove the dashboard. 9. Remove the ECM/PCM. Page 4665 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Page 5409 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 3947 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 3636 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations Page 3019 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Service and Repair MAP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the screw (B). 3. Remove the MAP sensor (C). 4. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 1508 6. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. Remove the rear axle shaft (C) from vehicles with 4WD. 7. Remove the parking brake shoes. 8. Remove the parking brake cable (A) from the backing plate. NOTE: The parking brake cable must not be bent or distorted. This will lead to stiff operation and premature cable failure. 9. Remove the wheel sensor (A) from the knuckle (if equipped with ABS). Page 2367 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 6155 Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type B: Blower Motor Relay Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Service and Repair Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Brake System Bleeding NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required. ^ Do not reuse the drained fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 brake fluid. Non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid. 1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (A). 2. Slide a piece of clear plastic hose over the bleed screw, and submerge the other end in a container of new brake fluid. 3. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 4. Loosen the left-front brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely. 5. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid. Page 1544 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 1619 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 7279 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 4108 7. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 8. Push the shift cable down until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back one step so that the shift cable is in R. Do not hold the shift cable guide (A) to adjust the shift cable (B). 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and verify that the R position indicator comes on. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Insert a 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) pin (A) into the positioning hole (B) on the shift lever bracket through the positioning hole on the shift lever. The shift lever is secured in R position. Front Suspension Page 2333 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B CMP sensor B detects the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. Page 145 Interior Lighting Module: Electrical Diagrams Circuit Diagrams Diagram 115-0 Page 7541 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 2887 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 5615 7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B). 8. Install the splash guard (c), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque. 9. Press a wheel bearing (A) onto the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. Page 4700 Electronic Brake Control Module: Testing and Inspection ABS Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 47P Connector Page 5330 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Front Brake Pad: Service and Repair Front Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Replacement 1. Remove the flange bolt (A). NOTE: The pad springs are installed on the pads to prevent brake drag. Be careful when pivoting up the caliper body fully, or the spring could be flipped out of position. 2. Pivot the caliper slightly so the pads do not come out of position, and hold the pads on both sides firmly with your fingers. Remove the pad springs (A) from the pads. 3. Pivot the caliper up out of the way, and remove the pads (A). 4. Remove the pad shims (B). 5. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration. Page 7579 Power Mirror Motor: Testing and Inspection Power Mirror Actuator Test 1. Remove the door panel. 2. Disconnect the 8P connector (A) from the power mirror actuator (B). 3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to the table. 4. If the mirror fails to work properly, replace the mirror actuator. Page 2007 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 1364 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 5922 163. Recirculation Control Motor Page 8061 Door Switch: Connector Locations 86. Left Rear Door 87. Left Rear Door Diagnostic Aids Fuel Tank Unit: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 2900 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 3091 Page 3245 ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. Page 2008 Disclaimer Page 3963 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 8563 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 4549 14. If the valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Front Brake Pad: Testing and Inspection Front Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Inspection 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the front wheels. 2. Check the thickness of the inner pad (A) and outer pad (B). Do not include the thickness of the brake pad backing plate. Brake pad thickness: Standard: 10.6 - 11.2 mm (0.42 - 0.44 inch) Service limit: 1.6 mm (0.06 inch) 3. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace all the pads as a set. Page 2615 Data Link Connector: Testing and Inspection DLC Circuit Troubleshooting NOTE: - If the ECM/PCM does not communicate with the Honda PGM Tester, HDS, or I/M test equipment, do this troubleshooting procedure. - Check that MIL circuit is normal, then do this troubleshooting. 1. Measure voltage between DLC terminal No.16 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.16 and the No.9 BACK UP (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. 2. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.4 and No.16. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.4 and body ground (G451). 3. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.5 and No.16. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. Specifications Clutch Fluid: Specifications Fluid type * ........................................................................................................................................... ....................... Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid *If Honda fluid is not available, use only DOT 3 or 4 from a sealed container as a temporary replacement. However, the use of any non-Honda brake fluid cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system. Page 2229 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 6843 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 20 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Locations Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 8196 10. Parking Brake Switch Page 8314 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 1776 8. Install the intake manifold cover. 9. Install the intake air duct (A), then connect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector (B), and install the vacuum hose (C) and breather pipe (D). 10. Clean up any spilled engine coolant. 11. After installation, check that all tubes, hoses and connectors are installed correctly. 12. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Page 5306 Wire Color Codes Page 7994 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 4770 13. Hold the pads on both sides firmly with your fingers, and install the new pad springs (A) on the pads. Holding the pads, set the caliper over the pads by pivoting it down slowly. NOTE: Insert the pad spring ends into the pad installation holes securely. 14. Pivot the caliper (A) down into position. Be careful not to damage the pin boots. 15. Install the flange bolt (B), and tighten it to the specified torque. 16. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive. NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 17. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Disassembly and Reassembly Overhaul CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Page 3403 Throttle Body: Testing and Inspection Throttle Body Test NOTE: - Do not adjust the throttle stop screw. It is preset at the factory. - If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been reported on, check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). 1. With the engine off, check the throttle cable operation. The cable should operate without binding or sticking. - If the cable operates OK, go to step 2. - If the cable binds or sticks, check it and its routing. If the cable is faulty, reroute it or replace it, then adjust it. Go to step 2. 2. Operate the throttle lever by hand to see if the throttle valve and/or shaft are too loose or too tight. - If there is excessive play in the throttle valve shaft, or any binding in the throttle valve at the fully closed or fully opened position, replace the throttle body. - If the throttle valve and shaft are OK, go to step 3. 3. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or HDS to the data link connector (DLC). 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Check the throttle position with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. The reading should be about 0 ° (REL), 0 % (REL), or 0.5 V when the throttle is fully closed, and about 80 ° (REL), 89 % (REL), or 4.5 V when the throttle is fully opened. If the throttle position is correct, the throttle body is OK. - If the throttle position is not correct, replace the throttle body. Page 5772 4. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) from the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Install the hub (A) and backing plate (B) on the new bearing unit (c) using the special tools and a hydraulic press. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. NOTE: (with ABS) ^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, or other foreign material from the encoder surface (D). ^ Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. ^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface. 7. Install the bearing unit (A) and knuckle (B). Page 2868 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 4354 (A/T) Page 2280 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 2 Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 2670 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Diagrams Page 7968 Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Master Switch Test/Replacement Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Release the clips of the switch and push the switch (A) out of the panel, then disconnect the 5P connector (B) from the master switch. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If there is no continuity, replace illumination bulbs (C) or the switch. Locations Key Reminder Switch: Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index 36. In Steering Column Cover Page 2833 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 5556 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 5363 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2231 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) Oxygen Sensor: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) 03-027 May 6, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Accord L4 2-door- From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A020275 2003 Accord L4 4-door- From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A071758 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C073601 2003 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1...3L006131 2003 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...3L000001 thru 5J6YH2...3L014546 MIL Comes On With DTC P2A00 (P2900) SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P2A00 (P2900)* [Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range Performance Problem]. * If you use the PGM Tester to retrieve codes, you may see DTC P2900; it's the same as DTC P2A00. PROBABLE CAUSE The air fuel ratio sensor is faulty. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for DTC P2A00 (P2900). If P2A00 (P2900) is present, replace the air fuel ratio sensor, and clear the DTC. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 36531-RAA-A01 H/C 7136187 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C99 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. PARTS INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or the PGM Tester to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector), and check for DTCs. Page 7489 6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work repeat steps 2 thru 7. 9. If you have another transmitter to program, repeat steps 2 thru 7. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Passport With Factory-Installed Security System 1998-02 Passport with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter To program the transmitters, use one of these two procedures: ^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed. ^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters. Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Procedure Two (adds transmitters) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the Page 5486 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 5028 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 878 56. PSP Switch Page 5830 8. Clean off any grease contamination from the ball joint tapered section and threads, then connect the tie-rod end to the steering arm. Tighten the nut (A) to the specified torque. Install the cotter pin (B) after tightening, and bend its end as shown. 9. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 412 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Knob Switch Test Door Lock Knob Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the actuator (B). 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the LOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the UNLOCKED position. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock actuator. Page 8043 Cigarette Lighter: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 155 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 836 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 6642 Wire Color Codes Page 6614 Page 4028 Standard: 50 Ohms - 25 k Ohms 9. If the resistance is out of standard, replace the shift solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not available separately from the shift solenoid harness. 10. Disconnect the connectors from the shift solenoid valves. 11. Connect the shift solenoid valve A connector (BLU wire) with the ATF temperature sensor (F) on the new solenoid harness. 12. Connect the solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the new O-ring (G) on the shift solenoid harness connector (H), and install the connector in the transmission housing. 14. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 15. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 16. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 17. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. 18. Remove the transmission jack. 19. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 3222 8. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). 11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Page 474 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Radiator Fan Switch Replacement 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector (A), then remove the radiator fan switch (B). 4. Install the radiator fan switch with a new O-ring (c). 5. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Page 881 14. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine. 15. Check the PSPSW in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to OFF? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 17. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector. 18. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 19. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 20. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 to body ground with a jumper wire. 21. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal E16. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and ECM/PCM (E16). Page 1076 NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 7924 28. Rt. Side Of Engine Compart. (EX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal Clutch Disc: Service and Repair Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal Clutch Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Clutch alignment disc 07JAF-PM7011A ^ Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 ^ Clutch alignment shaft 07ZAF-PR8A100 ^ Remover handle 07936-3710100 Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal 1. Check the diaphragm spring fingers for height using the special tool and a feeler gauge. If the height is more than the service limit, replace the pressure plate. Standard (New): 0.6 mm (0.02 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.8 mm (0.03 inch) 2. Install the special tools. 3. To prevent warping, unscrew the pressure plate mounting bolts (A) in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove the pressure plate (B). 4. Inspect the fingers of the diaphragm spring (A) for wear at the release bearing contact area. Page 2065 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 4633 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 5903 8. Install the brake hose mounting bracket (A). Page 7403 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 6687 135. Auxilary Jack Assembly (EX) Page 8365 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 7744 74. Driver's Door 77. Driver's Door Locations Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 5915 11. Measure the voltage between the No. 7 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Repair open in the wire between the heater control panel and the A/C pressure switch. 12. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF. 13. Using the Backprobe Set, measure the voltage between the No. 9 terminal of under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (12P) and body ground with the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors connected. Is there 5 V or more? YES - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the A/C pressure switch. NO - Refer to the multiplex control system. NOTE: Check for multiplex codes in mode 1. Follow the troubleshooting for any codes found. If no codes are found, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit and a PCM one at a time. 14. Check for proper A/C system pressure. Is the pressure within specifications? YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch. NO - Repair the A/C pressure problem. Page 3933 Locations Heated Glass Element Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 4760 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 5853 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (c) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E) with a plastic hammer while drawing the knuckle outward, then remove the knuckle. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the knuckle. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - First install all the components and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values. Do not place the jack against the ball joint pin of the lower arm. - Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it. - Install a new lock pin on the castle nut after torquing. - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Replace the self-locking nuts, damper pinch bolts and nuts with new ones. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Wheel Bearing Replacement 1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. 2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. Page 1494 Wheel Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins Wheel Bearing - Correct Installation To Prevent DTC's SOURCE: Honda Service News February 2003 TITLE: Install Wheel Bearings Correctly to Prevent DTCs APPLIES TO: 2003 Accord, 2002-03 CR-V, 2003 Element SERVICE TIP: When you replace a wheel bearing in a make sure you install it correctly. If you don't, these ABS DTCs can set: - ABS DTC 12, 14, 16, 18 [wheel sensor (electrical noise/intermittent interruption)] - ABS DTC 21, 22, 23, 24 (magnetic encoder) The brown dust shield for the wheel bearing also doubles as a magnetic encoder for the ABS. Before you install the wheel bearing, make sure the encoder is clean and free of metallic particles, then install it so the encoder is toward the inside of the knuckle. Install the encoder carefully so you don't damage its surface. Page 5307 Page 5149 Fuse: Connector Views 212. Fog Light In-Line Fuse (Honda Accessory) 216. Trailer Lighting In-line Fuse (Honda Accessory) Page 1581 82. Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid (VTEC Solenoid Valve) Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 1135 9. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 10. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 11. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Without the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Remove the glove box, then remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. NOTE: If any DTCs are stored, clear and ignore them. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel fill cap, and relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. 7. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Page 5184 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 3699 9. Click on the check mark to begin the control unit/module update. NOTE: To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update. 10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to ON (II). 11. Once the software verifies that the control unit/module has been successfully updated, click on Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on No to exit the update program. HIM Updating in Storage Mode NOTE: If the red No.3 on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error Codes. 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication Installation Instructions for HDS PC So ftware on ISIS. NOTE: If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. From the iN workstation desktop, select CM Update (ECU Rewrite). 3. Click on the tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is set to HIM. 4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then select Storage Mode and follow the on-screen instructions. 5. Take the HIM to the vehicle, and connect it to the vehicle's DLC. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect Page 2425 Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Secondary HO2S Replacement Secondary HO2S Replacement Special Tools Required O2 sensor wrench. Snap-on YA8875, SP Tools 93750, or equivalent, commercially available 1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B). 2. Install the secondary HO2S in the reverse order of removal. Page 927 Page 3982 Page 8128 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing a front airbag, side airbag, or other SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel, the front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, the seat belt buckle tensioners, and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors or the side airbag connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector A (1) from the SRS unit, disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3), the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (4), the driver's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (6), and the front passenger's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (7). - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B (8) from the SRS unit, disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (11, 12), and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (9, 10). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (2), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3). - Before disconnecting the floor wire harness 4P connector (5), disconnect both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (6, 7). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. Driver's Airbag Page 85 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 273 Oxygen Sensor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 5945 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. Page 2731 Locations 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment (EX) Page 621 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 92. CMP Sensor A 93. CMP Sensor B Page 7106 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 5123 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2) Page 2821 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Locations Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations Page 5573 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 6786 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 6741 124. Woofer (EX) Page 6698 5. Click Warranty Audio Order to view the Warranty Audio Order form. 6. Enter the VIN and the mileage, then click the Submit button to view the Warranty Audio Order form. Use the completed Audio/Navigation/RES Worksheet to help you answer the questions on the Warranty Audio Order form. Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make sure the information is complete (17-digit VIN, etc.). This information is critical to the remanufacturing process. Screen # 2 of the form contains the problem description, condition information, and shared functions. Fill this section out with as much information as possible. Select one part number from the list provided, then click Submit. It is your responsibility to ensure the correct part number is selected based on color and application information. Page 1561 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 3372 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 3252 Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection Idle Speed Inspection NOTE: - Leave the idle air control (IAC) valve connected. - Before checking the idle speed, check these items: - The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on. - Ignition timing - Spark plugs - Air cleaner - PCV system - Pull the parking brake lever up. 1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector. 2. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard. 3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed with no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off. 5. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with the heater fan switch on HI and air conditioner on, then check the idle speed. NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. If the idle is still out of specification, go to the Symptom Troubleshooting Index. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 6. Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve connector. Page 5781 6. Tighten the new self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) to the specified torque values while holding the respective joint pins (C) with a hex wrench (D). 7. After 5 minutes of driving, re-tighten the self-locking nut again to the specified torque value. Page 531 82. Left Rear Door (Right Similar) Page 6070 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 6783 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Service and Repair Cabin Ventilation Duct: Service and Repair Rear Air Outlet Replacement 1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Detach the hooks (A), then remove the rear air outlet (B). Take care not to scratch the body. 3. Install the air outlet by pushing on the hook portions until the hooks snap into place. Page 7281 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 8651 219. Fog Light Relay (Honda Accessory) Diagnostic Aids Fuse Block: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 1954 Compression Check: Testing and Inspection Engine Compression Inspection NOTE: After this inspection, you must select Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reset using the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) otherwise the ECM/PCM continues to stop the fuel injectors. 1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the Data Link Connector (DLC). 4. Select PGM-FI, select inspection, then select the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 5. Remove the four ignition coils. 6. Remove the four spark plugs. 7. Attach the compression gauge to the spark plug hole. 8. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression. Compression Pressure: Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi) 9. Measure the compression on the remaining cylinders. Maximum variation: Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi) 10. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the compression. - Damaged or worn valves and seats - Damaged cylinder head gasket - Damaged or worn piston rings - Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore 11. Select the ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF function. 12. Perform the Crankshaft Position (CKP) pattern clear/ CKP pattern learn procedure. 13. Perform the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. Page 2654 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 742 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly 2. Remove the cover (A). 3. Remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (B). 4. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 4188 ^ If the noise is still present, look for other causes. 7. Test-drive the vehicle to check for proper clutch operation. Disclaimer Page 5463 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough Page 5320 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 6879 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 1559 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 3499 3. Replace the plug at the specified interval or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the spark plugs listed. 4. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. Then torque them to 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft). Page 6811 Diagram 118-3 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 114 Capacity Specifications Page 798 115. Behind Left Side Of Front Bumper 117. Behind Right Side Of Front Bumper Page 5152 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2) Page 3217 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required - Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A - Fuel pressure gauge set 07ZAJ-S5A0100 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 330 - 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 55 psi). - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then recheck the fuel pressure. Page 5276 210. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Page 5333 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 144 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3382 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 6539 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. Page 8213 Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 6781 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 360 134. A/T Reverse Relay Page 567 Brake Light Switch: Description and Operation Brake Pedal Position Switch The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM/PCM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 7713 Seat Cover: Service and Repair Rear Seat Cover Rear Seat Cover Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. Seat-back Cover 1. Remove the headrest. 2. Fold the seat-back forward. 3. Release the hooks (A), and with seat-back loops, unzip the seat-back cover (B) and release the hooks (C). It is not necessary to remove a seat-back bungee cord from the loops if the cover will be reinstalled. 4. Pull back the seat-back cover (A), and release the inside springs (B). Page 8466 Page 7089 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 8302 Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Service and Repair High Mount Brake Light Replacement 1. Push in the clips, and remove the cover (A) from the housing (B). 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (C). 3. Remove the mounting nuts and the housing. 4. Install the high mount brake light in the reverse order of removal. Capacity Specifications Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications M/T Fluid Change ................................................................................................................................................ ............................................................. 2.0 Qt (1.9L) Total ................................................................. ................................................................................................................................................ 2.4 Qt (2.3L) Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 79 181. DRL Control Unit (Canada) Page 8391 Dome Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 114-2 Page 1831 Wire Color Codes Page 841 Page 6839 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6765 Alarm Module: Diagrams 161. Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver 195. Security Control Unit (Honda Accessory) Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 1472 46. Reinstall PGM-FI main relay 2 (A). 47. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Check the fuel pump, and replace it if necessary. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. 48. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 49. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 50. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 51. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal E9 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 52. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse and the ECM/PCM (E9). Page 5785 - Remove the engine mount bracket extension, and leave the engine mount bracket attached to the front side frame. - Check the engine mount bracket position, and check for damage. If necessary, replace it. Damper Housing: Page 6917 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Locations Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 1072 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Technical Service Bulletin # SN030915 Date: 030901 Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. Page 38 4. Push in the lock (A) of the ABS control unit 47P connector (B), then connect the connector. 5. Connect the six brake lines. 6. Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels. 7. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator and brake system indicator go off. 8. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator and brake system indicator do not come on. Page 5024 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 7901 ^ If the run channel is not pinched, continue with normal troubleshooting. Locations Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index 29. Rear Of Engine Compartment Page 6380 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the connector from the 2nd clutch pressure switch (A). 3. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 4. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. 5. Install the air cleaner housing. Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 3681 *MVCI: (Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program)* A/F Sensor Replacement Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair A/F Sensor Replacement A/F Sensor Replacement Special Tools Required O2 sensor wrench, Snap-on YA8875, SP Tools 93750, or equivalent, commercially available 1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A), then remove the A/F sensor (B). 2. Install the A/F sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 2899 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 834 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 5274 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4979 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 3514 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C move. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C body. 14. If either valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. Page 764 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate B. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate B in the reverse order of removal. Page 2749 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 2357 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 3945 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 3746 Two updating modes can be used with the HIM: Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Pass-Thru mode is used when the HIM can be connected to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. Storage mode is used when the HIM cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. HIM Updating in Pass-Thru Mode NOTE: If the red No.3 LED on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error Codes. 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication Installation Instructions for HDS PC Software on ISIS. NOTE: If the latest software is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. From the iN workstation desktop, select CM Update (ECU Rewrite). 3. Connect the PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the HIM. 4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-thru-Mode. 5. Connect the HIM to the vehicle's DLC. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Click on the check mark to continue. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. Page 8655 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 3792 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C move. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C body. 14. If either valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. Page 1746 5. If 4 numbers or marks (1 to 4 or v to vvvv) are printed around the outside of the filter, use the following procedure to tighten the filter. - Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the block, and note which number or mark is at the bottom. - Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise 3 numbers or marks from the one you noted. For example, if number 2 is at the bottom when the seal is seated, tighten the filter until the number 1 comes around the bottom. 6. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level, run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage. Oil Filter Feed Pipe Replacement 1. Remove the oil filter. 2. Remove the oil filter feed pipe. 3. Install the two 20 x 1.5 mm nuts (A) onto the new oil filter feed pipe. Hold the nut with a wrench, then tighten the other nut. 4. Tighten the oil filter feed pipe to the block to 49 Nm (5.0 kgf-m, 36 ft. lbs.), then remove the nuts from the oil filter feed pipe. Page 3996 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 6018 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 7280 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information 06-082 December 15, 2006 Applies To: ALL Tubeless Tire Repair Information This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda automobiles and light trucks. To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers. Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Refer to the tire manufacturer for warranty information. REQUIRED MATERIALS ^ 1/8 inch Patch-plug with lead wire ^ 1/4 inch Patch-plug with lead wire ^ 1/8 inch Plugs (stem)* ^ 1/4 inch Plugs (stem)* ^ 1/4 inch Patches* ^ 3/4 inch Patches* ^ Chemical cement ^ Liquid buffer ^ Rim-bead sealer ^ Inner liner sealer REQUIRED TOOLS ^ Tire stitcher, 1-1/2 inch wheel ^ Tire crayons ^ Tire test tank ^ Awl or probe ^ Flexible blade skiving knife ^ 1/8 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter ^ 1/4 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter ^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose ^ Carbide buffing wheel with adapter Page 3610 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 5003 14. Check that there is continuity between the slip rings (A). - If there is continuity, go to step 15. - If there is no continuity, replace the rotor assembly. 15. Check that there is no continuity between each slip ring and the rotor (B) and the rotor shaft (C). - If there is no continuity, replace the rear housing assembly, and go to step 16. - If there is continuity, replace the rotor assembly. Alternator Reassembly 16. If you removed the pulley, put the rotor in the drive-end housing, then tighten its locknut to 110 N.m (11.2 kgf.m, 81.0 lbf.ft). 17. Remove any grease or any oil from the slip rings. 18. Put the rear housing assembly and drive-end housing/rotor assembly together, tighten the four through bolts. 19. Push the brushes (A) in, then insert a pin or drill bit (B) (about 1.6 mm (0.06 in.) diameter) to hold them there. 20. Install the brush holder, and pull out the pin. 21. Install the end cover. 22. After assembling the alternator, turn the pulley by hand to make sure the rotor rotates smoothly and without noise. 23. Install the alternator and drive belt. Page 8624 Diagram 110-9 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 7031 7. From under the armrest, using the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set, pry out the lid (A), and remove the screw. 8. Pull out on the bottom of the lower anchor cap (A) to release the hooks (B), and pull down on the cap to release the hooks (C), then remove the cap from the door panel (D). 9. Remove the door panel (A) with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it. 1. Pull the door weatherstrip (B) out as necessary. 2. Release the clips that hold the door panel with a commercially available trim pad remover (C). 3. Pull out on the top of the door panel to release the hooks (D) from the rear door trim (E). 4. Pull the door panel upward. 10. Install the panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Make sure the inner handle cable is connected properly. - Replace any damaged clips. - Push the clips and hooks into place securely. Page 2389 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 3018 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the ECM/PCM. Page 6884 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Campaign - Vehicle Warranty Mileage Extension Odometer: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - Vehicle Warranty Mileage Extension 06-085 May 9, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage (Supersedes 06-085, dated January 22, 2008, to update the information marked by asterisks) BACKGROUND On December 29, 2007, a federal court provided final approval of the settlement of a class action lawsuit alleging that the odometers on certain 2002 through 2006 Honda models, and some 2007 Fit models, were overstating mileage. As part of the settlement, American Honda is extending the mileage-based coverage period of all warranties, Honda Care Service Contracts, and Honda Certified Used Vehicles by 5 percent on the above referenced vehicles. The time limits for all warranties are unchanged. VEHICLES AFFECTED The vehicles affected by this settlement include certain 2002 through 2006 Honda models and some 2007 Fit models purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006. The affected region is the United States (including the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico, and the U.S. Virgin Islands). Affected vehicles registered to customers with a military or a NATO address are also included in this settlement. The most effective way to check a vehicle's warranty coverage is by a VIN status inquiry. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION American Honda notified affected customers by mail or publication. The notices were sent to original registered purchasers, informing them of the terms of the settlement. Notice was also published in a national newspaper. To view the content of the mailed notice, as well as other documents regarding the settlement, or for additional information, please refer to these sources: Website: www.odosettlementinfo.com Information Center: (888) 888-3082 CORRECTIVE ACTION *On affected vehicles, the settlement requires you to honor a 5 percent increase in the mileage coverage period for all warranties, all Honda Certified Used Vehicles, and those Honda Care Service Contracts purchased only by the original owners.* WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Use the chart as a reference for converting most standard warranty mileage limits to the extended mileage coverage. Use the chart as a reference to all service bulletins affected by the extended mileage coverage. In addition to the 5 percent mileage increase in warranty coverage, any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill Page 6870 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Windshield - Procedure To Check For Cracks Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Windshield - Procedure To Check For Cracks SOURCE: Honda Service News April 2004 TITLE: What Caused That Windshield Crack? APPLIES TO: 2003-04 Element SERVICE TIP: Need to know what caused a crack windshield in a 2003-04 Element (or any other vehicle)? Follow these steps to find out: 1. Look for an external chip in the windshield crack. - If you see a chip, a flying object caused the crack. - If you don't see a chip, then run the tip of a pin or a ball point pen along the length of the crack. If the pin or pen stops or skips in a crater, a flying object caused the crack. If the pin or pen glides smoothly along the entire length, then internal stresses or a deformed windshield flange could be the cause. Go to step 2. 2. Remove the windshield and all the sealer (see page 20-37 of the 2003-04 Element S/M). (You can also find this info in ISIS under SEARCH BY VEHICLE. Use the keyword Windshield, and select Windshield Replacement from the list.) 3. Carefully place the new windshield on the windshield flange. 4. Insert a feeler gauge between the flange and the windshield, and run it along the entire length of the windshield. - If the gauge hangs up, remove the windshield, and check the flange for deformation. Refer to S/B 03-028, 2003 Element: Windshield Is Cracked at the Lower Corners, for windshield flange repair info. - If the feeler gauge doesn't hang up, the install the new windshield (see page 20-37 of the S/M or go into ISIS). Page 4744 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 8623 Marker Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 110-8 Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 2716 128. Under Left Rear Of Vehicle Page 5953 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 890 Countershaft Sensor: Description and Operation Countershaft Speed Sensor This sensor detects countershaft speed. Page 2783 31. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminals No.2 and No.4 individually, Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 1. Also replace the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. NO - Go to step 32. 32. Disconnect each of the components or connectors below, one at a time, and check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. PGM-FI main relay 2 - ECM/PCM connector A (31P) - Each injector 2P connector - Idle air control (IAC) valve 3P connector - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor B 3P connector - Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor 3P connector Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 33. NO - Replace the component that made the short to body ground go away when disconnected. If the item is the ECM/PCM, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Also replace the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. 33. Disconnect the connectors of these components. - PGM-FI main relay 2 - ECM/PCM connector A (31P) - Injectors - Idle air control (IAC) valve - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor B - Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 4912 ERROR: undefined OFFENDING COMMAND: ‘~ STACK: Page 2870 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Page 5142 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 4140 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 1936 8. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). 11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Page 8214 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 7448 1997-01 CR-V with dealer-installed security system 1996-97 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1996-98 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system *1999-04 Odyssey LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* 1996-01 Prelude with dealer-installed security system *2000-04 S2000 with dealer-installed security system 2000-04 Insight with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 5851 2. Remove the wheel cap, wheel nuts, and front wheel. 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. Component Locations Fuse Block: Component Locations 7. Left Side Of Engine Compartment 42. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 7084 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagram Information and Instructions Interior Lighting Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 2708 and the bracket. 6. Remove the nuts (C), then remove the ECM/PCM (D). Page 3360 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7174 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 1867 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Testing and Inspection VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is stuck or clogged, replace it, then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1 Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.) If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step?. Page 6732 Amplifier: Service and Repair Stereo Amplifier Stereo Amplifier Replacement 1. Remove the right kick panel. 2. Remove the stereo amplifier connectors (A) from the stereo amplifier (B). 3. Loosen the mounting nut (C), and remove the two mounting bolts (D), then remove the stereo amplifier. 4. Install the stereo amplifier in the reverse order of removal. Page 8190 Oil Pressure Sender: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch. 2. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch. Page 1277 NOTE: - Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001). Using a non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. - Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Do not add water. Engine Coolant Refill Capacity [including the reserve tank capacity of 0.6 l (0.6 US qt)]: M/T: 5.1 - (5.4 US qt) A/T: 5.0 - (5.3 US qt) 8. Install the radiator cap loosely. 9. Start the engine, and let it run until it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at least twice). 10. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator and add Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 if needed. 11. Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run the engine again and check for leaks. Page 8446 Low Beam Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Five-terminal type: Low Beam Cut Relay (Canada) Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 2672 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8611 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7540 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 4081 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A). 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the park pin switch with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No.2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 12. Install the shift lever assembly. Testing and Inspection Power Door Lock Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test NOTE: Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system . 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors J, M, P, Q, X and Y. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 5537 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 7167 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer Page 5369 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 2144 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 7490 system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Turning the Audible Chirp On/Off (1998-99 only) NOTE: On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the transmitter a second time. 1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock. 2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position, three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the chirp has been turned on/off. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. Page 910 18. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 19. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 20. Remove the O/D switch harness clamp from the shift lever bracket and from the harness, and pull the O/D switch harness out to remove the shift lever assembly. 21. Insert the new O/D switch harness (A) into the shift lever ring (B), and route the harness through the groove (C) of the shift lever (D) into the hole (E). Do not pinch the harness. 22. Wind the O/D switch harness (A) one turn around the clamp (B) on the bottom of the shift lever. 23. Install the harness clamp (C) at the reference tape (D) on the harness, then install the clamp in the hole (E) of the shift lever bracket (F). Page 3855 (A/T) Page 835 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 8685 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 453 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the connector from the parking brake switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (B) and body ground. ^ With the parking brake lever pulled, there should be continuity. ^ With the parking brake lever released, there should be no continuity. NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, troubleshoot the ABS. ^ If the parking brake switch and brake fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator does not work, check the ABS. Page 8015 How to Identify Connector Terminals PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing Control Module: Service and Repair PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the PCM only if the PCM does not have the latest software loaded. Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the PCM can be damaged. Service and Repair Valve Cover: Service and Repair Cylinder Head Cover Removal 1. Remove the intake manifold cover. 2. Remove the four ignition coils. 3. Remove the two bolts (A) securing the vacuum line. 4. Remove the bolt (B) securing the power steering hose bracket. 5. Remove the dipstick (C) and breather hose (D). 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. Page 3597 Page 6197 - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. After you reconnect the battery: - Do the engine idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the radio anti-theft code, enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Page 7658 7. Apply the 10 x 30 mm wool felt strips around both ends of the seat frame rod (where the upper seat-back cover springs connect). 8. With side airbags: Make sure the black upper hook for the side airbag cover routes below the zig-zag spring. If it is above the spring, disassemble the airbag cover hooks, and reconnect the hooks with the black hook routing below the zig-zag spring. 9. Reinstall the seat-back cover. To prevent wrinkles, make sure you stretch the material evenly over the foam before securing the inside springs, hooks, and clips. 10. Reinstall the armrest (if applicable). If the vehicle does not have side airbags, you're finished. If the vehicle is equipped with side airbags, go to step 11. 11. With side airbags: Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 12. With side airbags: If you repaired the front passenger's seat, initialize the occupant position detection system (OPDS) unit: Page 2742 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 2447 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving With the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve fuel pressure from the system by stopping the fuel pump with the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). 1. Remove the fuel fill Gap. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. From the inspection menu of the Honda PGM Tester or HDS, select Fuel Pump OFF, start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. NOTE: Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the ECM/PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump. - A DTC or a temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them as needed. 5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 6. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 7. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean if it needed. 8. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). Page 8562 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 7531 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer Page 2928 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Updating the ECM/PCM ECM/PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not already have the latest software loaded. NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the ECM/PCM can be damaged. How to Update the ECM/PCM NOTE: - To ensure the latest program is installed, do an ECM/PCM update whenever the ECM/PCM is substituted or replaced. - You can not update an ECM/PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. - Before you update the ECM/PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. - To prevent ECM/PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power windows, door locks, etc.) during the update. - If you need to diagnose the Honda Interface Module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent ECM/PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS or Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of dashboard. 3. Do the ECM/PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label and in the ECM/PCM update system. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure, if you did the trouble shooting for DTC P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0335, or P0339. How to Substitute the ECM/PCM 1. Remove the ECM/PCM from the vehicle. 2. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the vehicle. 3. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure from the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS; It allows you to start the engine. 4. After completing your tests, reinstall the original ECM/PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure on the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Component Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 6488 Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Diagrams 104. Seat Belt Switch, Driver's 105. Seat Belt Switch, Front Passenger's Page 4717 Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement NOTE: Install the sensors carefully to avoid twisting the wires. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Fuse Block: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Use ONLY New GF-4 Standard Engine Oil APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: There's a new performance standard for engine oil: GF-4. It was jointly developed by automotive and oil experts, and it represents a significant performance upgrade and improvement in fuel economy. GF-4 engine oils must pass grueling tests totaling over 500 hours. On top of this, Honda Genuine engine oils are also tested to ensure specific compatibility with Honda vehicles. GF-4 engine oil is compatible with all current and earlier model year Honda cars and trucks. It also provides these added benefits: - Improved oxidation resistance (reduced thickening of the oil) - Improved deposit protection and better wear protection - Better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil - Environmental protection by extending the life of emissions systems While Honda has upgraded its engine oil to GF-4, other brands may not yet be at this new standard. Keep in mind you must use Honda Genuine engine oil for all warranty repairs. If you use some other brand of oil for non-warranty repairs, make sure that oil meets the GF-4 standard. We recommend you stop using non-GF-4 engine oils and check with your supplier that you're purchasing GF-4 oil. Engine oil produced after April 1, 2005, that meets the GF-4 standard, must post this starburst certification mark on the container. Always look for this mark; some oil container labels won't specifically refer to GF-4. Page 8001 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 1719 Drive Belt: Testing and Inspection Drive Belt Inspection 1. Inspect the belt for cracks and damage. If the belt is cracked or damaged, replace it. 2. Check that the auto-tensioner indicator (A) is within the standard range (B) as shown. If it is out of the standard range, replace the drive belt. Page 6690 Auxiliary Input / Output Jack: Service and Repair Auxiliary Input / Output Jack, Entertainment System Auxiliary Jack Replacement EX model: 1. Remove the glove box. 2. Remove the front accessory power socket. 3. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the auxiliary jack(B). 4. Push the auxiliary jack (B) from behind the dashboard. Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 6167 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: Customer Interest Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 120. Right Side Of Engine Compartment Page 1850 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3730 *MVCI: (Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program)* Locations 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 6685 NOTE: Known-good test iPods are available from Tech Line. No - Repair the faulty connection at the audio unit. Music Link has no sound, the disc number and track number flashes on the audio display. Disconnect and reconnect the iPod, then retest. Does Music Link operate normally? Yes - The iPod connector pins are loose. Replace the cable if the connector is damaged. No - There is a firmware error. Advise the customer to install the latest iPod firmware (unit software). Check mark is shown on iPod display screen, radio does not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode. 1. Make sure the audio unit works in all other modes. Does the audio unit work in all other modes? Yes - Go to step 2. No - Do a vehicle battery cable reset, then retest: ^ Remove the negative and positive battery cables. Use a jumper wire to short the two cables together, then turn the ignition switch to ON (II) and wait 15 minutes. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the jumper wire. Reconnect the positive battery cable first, then reconnect the negative cable. 2. Remove the Music Link interface unit, and verify the software version on the unit label is SW 1.06 or higher. Is the software version SW 1.06 or higher? Yes - Do the "Check mark is not shown on iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode" troubleshooting. No - Replace the Music Link interface unit and iPod cable. iPod music and XM radio music play at the same time (Pilot). There is a software compatibility issue in the XM receiver unit. Refer to S/B 06-061, XM(R) Satellite Radio and Audio Accessories Play at the Same Time for repair information. Music Link will not do Disc 1-4 search functions. NOTE: TTS software must be loaded on the customer's home computer before Disc 1-4 search functions work. 1. Use a known-good iPod to verify that the search functions (Disc 1-4) work. NOTE: Known-good test iPods are available from Tech Line. Does the known-good iPod do search functions (Disc 1-4)? Yes - Verify with the customer if the TTS software is loaded. If the customer needs assistance, refer the customer to American Honda's Automobile Customer Service Department for assistance with TTS software loading problems (see page 6 of this bulletin). No - Do the battery cable reset, then retest: ^ Remove the negative and positive battery cables. Use a jumper wire to short the two cables together, then turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait 15 minutes. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the jumper wire. Reconnect the positive battery cable first, then reconnect the negative cable. 2. If the problem does not go away, do "Check mark is not shown on iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode" troubleshooting. Artist is not categorized in the correct grouping when using (Disc 2) search function. Description and Operation Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM/PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set each code, drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures in this section. Page 3723 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Use the HDS to clear DTC P0420. 2. Make sure you have the iN CD (June '03 or later) loaded into your iN master terminal. If not, load the CD using the instructions that come with it. 3. Update the ECM/PCM software with the Honda Interface Module (HIM). Refer to S/B 01-023, Using the Honda Interface Module to Update Control Units/Modules. Disclaimer Page 4836 30. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Front Suspension Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement Special Tools Required Hub disassembly tool 07GAF-SD40100 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 - Driver 07749-0010000 - Support base 07965-SD90100 - Ball joint thread protector 07AAF-SDAA100 Knuckle and Hub Replacement 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 8517 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 4196 ^ If the noise is still present, look for other causes. 7. Test-drive the vehicle to check for proper clutch operation. Disclaimer Page 4806 Raise the vehicle on a lift. Check for loose wheel bearings. You must replace loose wheel bearings before you refinish the brake discs. If you do not, the brake lathe will not correct for brake disc runout, resulting in an uneven finish and brake pulsation. Remove the front wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts with flat washers to compensate for the removed wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual). Remove the caliper assembly. Use a wire or a S-hook to hold the caliper to the spring or damper tower. Do not kink the brake hose or use it to support the caliper. If you are not using the power drive system and the vehicle has ICS or VSA, make sure you install a brake pad spreader between the pads on the hanging caliper. Also, make sure the ICS or VSA is turned off anytime the engine is started. If the system is not turned off, the brakes could activate, causing the brake pads on the hanging caliper to hit each other or the caliper pistons to fall out. Install the vibration damper on the brake disc. If you are not using the power drive system, make sure you install the protective band around the wheel nuts. If you are not using the power drive system, use a fabric tie-down strap to secure the brake disc that is opposite to the one you are refinishing. If you are working on a Prelude with ATTS, do not use a tie-down strap; let both wheels turn freely. Mounting the Brake Lathe Remove the tool bed from the brake lathe, then mount the brake lathe to the steering knuckle with a Honda 1-piece speed mount. These mounts provide quicker, more accurate mounting, and can be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION). Page 6247 115. Behind Left Side Of Front Bumper 117. Behind Right Side Of Front Bumper Specifications Wheel Fastener: Specifications Wheel Lug Torque ............................................................................................................................... ................................................... 108 Nm (79.6 ft lb) Page 3694 NOTE: To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update. 14. When the No.1 LED stays on and the No.2 LED goes off, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the No.1 and No.2 LEDs stay on, the control unit/module is updated. 16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the DLC cable from the vehicle. To do the same update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps 11 thru 16. UPDATING WITH THE HDS TABLET AND THE HDS POCKET TESTER NOTE: This procedure explains how to update with the HDS tablet. Updating with the HDS pocket tester is similar, but the user interface is modified to fit its smaller screen. 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC sofiware onto your HDS tablet or HDS pocket tester. Refer to the instructions included with the HDS Installation Disc. NOTE: If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. On the HDS Switchboard screen, click on the CM update icon. Page 5162 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 7423 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 8525 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4706 199. ABS Modulator-Control Unit (EX) Page 2955 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 92. CMP Sensor A 93. CMP Sensor B Page 6866 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7524 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. Page 6835 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6100 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 7999 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 5107 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 844 Page 319 Page 1855 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 2049 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5728 Ball Joint: Service and Repair Ball Joint Boot Replacement Replacement Special Tools Required Front hub disassembly tool 07965-SA50500 1. Remove the boot. Check for a gap between the ball joint (A) and the knuckle. If there is a gap, replace the knuckle assembly. Do not press the ball joint back into the knuckle. 2. Pack the interior and lip (B) of a new boot with fresh grease. Keep the grease off of the boot-to-knuckle mating surfaces (C). 3. Wipe the grease off the tapered section of the pin (D), and pack fresh grease onto the base (E). 4. Install the boot onto the ball joint pin, then squeeze it gently to force out any air. Do not let dirt or other foreign materials get into the boot. 5. Press the boot with the special tool until the bottom seats on the knuckle (A) evenly around. 6. After installing a boot, wipe any grease off the exposed portion of the ball joint pin. Page 287 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 430 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Connector Locations 111. Middle Of Hatch 112. Left Side Of Tailgate Page 7258 Rear Subframe Torque NOTE: After loosening the subframe mounting bolts be sure to replace them with new ones. Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Computers/Controls Updating Control Units And Modules 01-023 April 10, 2010 Applies To: Honda Vehicles With Programmable Control Units/Modules Updating Control Units/Modules (Supersedes 01-023, dated May 15, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) REVISION SUMMARY *^Under REQUIRED TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT, the MVCI was added. ^ Under UPDATING TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS MVCI information was added. ^ UPDATING WITH THE MVCI was added.* The procedures in this service bulletin are used and referenced in other service bulletins. Most 2002 and later Hondas have reprogrammable control units/modules. To update (reprogram) any of these control units/modules, you need the vehicle you're working on and one of these systems: *^MVCI unit with latest control module (CM) update software installed* ^ GNA600 gateway device and an iN workstation with the latest HDS software installed ^ HDS Tablet with the latest HDS software installed ^ HDS Pocket Tester with the latest HDS software installed ^ HIM and an iN workstation with the latest HDS software installed ^ A compatible J2534 device and a PC with Honda's J2534 software installed This service bulletin describes these subjects: ^ Who to contact for questions or problems when using Honda-supplied updating equipment or the iN. ^ Required Tools and Equipment - MVCI - GNA600 - HDS Tablet - HDS Pocket Tester - HIM ^ Updating Tips and Precautions ^ Updating with the MVCI ^ Updating with the GNA600 - GNA6OO Updating in Pass-Thru Mode - GNA6OO Updating in Storage Mode ^ Updating with the HDS Tablet and the HDS Pocket Tester Page 4930 136. Under Left Side Of Dash (M/T) Page 3430 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 92. CMP Sensor A 93. CMP Sensor B Page 4616 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Check for continuity between O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 while pushing the O/D switch toggle. The O/D switch terminals continuity is toggled by pushing the O/D switch ON and OFF. 13. If the O/D switch works properly, connect the connector and install the removed parts. If the switch is faulty, go to step 14, and replace the switch. 14. Remove the shift lever assembly. 15. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 16. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 17. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Locations Wipers / Washers Component Location Index Page 2295 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 3100 12. Right Side Of Engine Page 4186 VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the master cylinder, and apply a thin film of silicone grease to the clutch line fitting. REQUIRED MATERIALS Silicone Grease: P/N 08C30-B0234M, H/C 6110928 Brake Fluid: P/N 08798-9008, H/C 4423802 PARTS INFORMATION Civic/Civic Hybrid Master Cylinder: P/N 46920-S5A-G04, H/C 7569452 Accord/Civic Si/CR-V/Element Master Cylinder: P/N 46920-57A-A02, H/C 7604507 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 211101 Flat Rate Time: 0.6 hour (All Civics) 0.8 hour (Accord/CR-V/Element) Failed Part: Civic/Civic Hybrid: P/N 46920-55A-G01 H/C 6571103 Accord/Civic Si/CR-V/Element: P/N 46920-S7A-A01 H/C 6729031 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 04201 Page 6643 Page 8574 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 7453 The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart, look at the FCC ID on the back. 1999-00 - FCC ID: E4EG8DN 2001-04 - FCC ID: OUCG8D-440H-A* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-01 Prelude With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 1999-01 Prelude with factory-installed keyless entry system Specifications Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications Relief valve, oil pressure with oil temperature at 176°F (80°C) At idle ................................................................................................................................................... ................ 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) minimum At 3,000 rpm ....................................................................................................................................................... 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) minimum Page 6923 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Service and Repair Front Fender Liner: Service and Repair Front Inner Fender Replacement NOTE: Take care not to scratch the body. 1. Remove the front inner fender (A). 1. On the back of the wheel arch, remove the screws (B, C). 2. From under the front bumper (D), remove the bolts (E) securing the front bumper, splash shield (F), and front inner fender. 3. From the wheel arch, remove the clips (G, H) securing the front inner fender, front cladding (I) (and splash shield) on the body. 4. Release the hook (J) of the splash shield from the front inner fender. 5. From the wheel arch, pull the front inner fender out from between the body and front cladding, then remove the front inner fender. 2. Install the inner fender in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips; and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Locations Data Link Connector: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Locations Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations Gauges Component Location Index 30. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 2368 Electric Load Sensor: Locations PGI-FI System - Component Location Index Page 5750 4. Remove the lock pin from the knuckle ball joint, then remove the castle nut. NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin as shown after tightening the new nut. 5. Install a hex nut or the ball joint thread protector onto the threads of the ball joint. Make sure the nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the threaded end of the ball joint pin. Page 6865 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 7310 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 8353 Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7398 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 2849 144. Rear Accessory Power Socket And A/F Sensor Relays Page 8594 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 2228 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Instruments - Fuel Gauge Reads EMPTY After Fill Up Fuel Gauge: Customer Interest Instruments - Fuel Gauge Reads EMPTY After Fill Up 03-059 September 23, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Element - See VEHICLES AFFECTED Fuel Gauge Reads Empty and Low Fuel Indicator Blinks SYMPTOM After filling the fuel tank, the fuel gauge reads empty and the low fuel indicator blinks. PROBABLE CAUSE The fuel gauge calibration is incorrect. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the gauge assembly. If required by the Department of Motor Vehicles, fill out an odometer mileage disclosure sticker, and apply it to the driver's doorjamb. Page 5011 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Interlock Switch Test 1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector (A). 2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. - If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch interlock switch. - If OK, install the clutch interlock switch and adjust the pedal height. Page 1501 2. Remove the wheel cap, wheel nuts, and front wheel. 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. Page 139 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 5204 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 7551 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the connector from the 2nd clutch pressure switch (A). 3. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 4. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. 5. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 3452 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 7499 3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. 4. If the actuator does not work as specified, replace it. Page 1820 5. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, evenly to the chain case mating surface of the chain case cover and to the inner threads of the holes. NOTE: Do not install the parts if 4 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing old residue. 6. Install the chain case cover. Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 Oil Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Replace VTEC Oil Pressure Switch for DTC P2646, P2647 APPLIES TO: 03-05 Accord 4-cylinder 03-05 Element 02-05 CR-V SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop with either of these DTCs? - DTC P2646 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit low voltage) - DTC P2647 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit high voltage) Replacing the VTEC oil pressure switch usually fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then press on with normal troubleshooting. Page 6833 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 4087 Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Solenoid Valve Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve connectors. 7. Remove the bolts, and hold the shift solenoid valve body, then remove them. Do not hold the connector to remove. Page 4015 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 8359 Page 2445 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Page 7000 ^ If the run channel is visibly damaged, replace it, then recheck the window speed. ^ If the run channel looks OK, go to step 3. 3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through its range of travel and check for excessive resistance: ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 4. If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 5. 4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed. ^ If the run channel is not pinched, go to step 5. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. SYMPTOM 3 During operation, the window squeaks, creaks, clunks, or clicks. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Compare the window's noise level to another like vehicle: ^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal characteristic. ^ If the noise is different from the other vehicle, go to step 2. Page 5466 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Page 4756 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 1989 Disclaimer Page 8607 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 2104 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Service and Repair Clutch Release Bearing: Service and Repair Release Bearing Replacement 1. Remove the release fork boot (A) from the clutch housing (B). 2. Remove the release fork (C) from the clutch housing by squeezing the release fork set spring (D) with pliers. Remove the release bearing (E). 3. Check the play of the release bearing by spinning it with your hand. If there is excessive play, replace the release bearing. NOTE: The release bearing is packed with grease. Do not wash it in solvent. 4. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the release fork (A), the release fork bolt (B), the release bearing (C), and the release bearing guide (D) in the shaded areas. 5. With the release fork slid between the release bearing pawls, install the release bearing on the mainshaft while inserting the release fork through the hole in the clutch housing. 6. Align the detent of the release fork with the release fork bolt, then press the release fork over the release fork bolt squarely. 7. Install the release fork boot (E). Make sure the boot seals around the release fork and clutch housing. Locations Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Locations 25. Transmission Housing 125. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 8485 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5048 Starter Motor: Service and Repair Overhaul M/T Starter Overhaul M/T Disassembly/Reassembly Brush Holder Removal 1. Remove the starter. 2. Disconnect the wire from the M terminal, and remove the end cover. Page 672 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases. Page 802 Impact Sensor: Service Precautions SRS Unit, Front Impact Sensors, and Side Impact Sensors - Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side impact sensors whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. - During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. - After a collision in which any airbags or seat belt tensioners were deployed, replace the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and other deployed components. After a collision in which a side airbag was deployed, replace the side impact sensor on the deployed side and the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags or the side airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and the side impact sensors. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors. - Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side impact sensors. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors from the SRS unit. - Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors are installed securely, with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft) - Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors, and keep them away from dust. - Store the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors in a cool (less than 104 °F / 40 °C) and dry (less than 80 % relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 344 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 461 Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Wheel Sensors The wheel sensors are the magnetic contact-less type. The wheel sensors detect changing of magnetic polarity on the magnetic encoder contained inside the wheel bearings. The ABS control unit calculates the wheel speed based on signals received from the wheel sensor. NOTE: The wheel bearings are directional. When the wheel speed drops sharply below the vehicle speed, the outlet valve opens momentarily to reduce the caliper fluid pressure. The pump motor starts at this time. As the wheel speed is restored, the inlet valve opens momentarily to increase the caliper fluid pressure. Page 1402 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 7256 2. Line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the corners of the jack base, then attach the adapter to the jack base with the bolts that came with the jack. Tighten all of the bolts securely. 3. Raise the jack to vehicle height. 4. With the rear bar of the adapter spanning the sides of the subframe, route the adapter's strap around the front of the subframe. Pull the strap as tightly as possible, insert the pin through the appropriate loop, then tighten the wing nut. 5. With all of the vehicle parts properly supported or removed (see Engine or Transmission Removal in the appropriate service manual), carefully lower the subframe using the controls on the jack. Disclaimer Page 5238 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Page 6180 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Evaporator Temperature Sensor Test 1. Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance between its terminals. 2. Then pour warm water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. 3. Compare the resistance readings with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 2683 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 8124 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to the impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit, respectively, will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: Seat Belt Tensioners and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners 1. A front impact sensor must activate and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the tensioners. 3. The charges must ignite and deploy the tensioners. Driver's and Front Passenger's Airbag(s) 1. A front impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals, and depending on the severity of the collision and whether the seat belt buckle switch is ON or OFF, it sends the appropriate signals to the airbag inflator(s). 3. The inflators that received signals must ignite and deploy the airbags. Side Airbag(s) 1. Aside impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the side airbag inflator(s). However, the microprocessor turns off the signals to the front passenger's side airbag if the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger's head is in the deployment path of the side airbag. 3. The inflator that received the signal must ignite and deploy the side airbag. Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the system is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after 6 seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the system. The system must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the SRS unit memory stores a DTC that relates to the cause of the malfunction, and the unit is connected to the data link circuit. This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS when it is connected to the data link connector (DLC). NOTE: If the battery negative cable is disconnected during troubleshooting, do the following: Before you disconnect the battery: Page 8062 89. Right Rear Door 90. Right Rear Door Page 5021 Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 1790 Oil Pressure Sender: Testing and Inspection Oil Pressure Switch Test 1. Remove the YEL/RED wire (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running. 3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil lever If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure. If the oil pressure is OK, replace the oil pressure switch. Page 5085 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 6504 Page 5437 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6828 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 3329 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 7802 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. Page 5665 5. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connector (A) from the rear door wire harness. Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner 6. Disconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connector (A). SRS Unit 7. Disconnect SRS unit connector A, SRS unit connector B, or SRS unit connector C from the SRS unit. Page 4330 Fluid - M/T: Service and Repair Transmission Fluid Inspection and Replacement 1. Put the vehicle on level ground, and turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the oil filler plug (A) and washer (B), check the condition of the fluid, and make sure it is at the proper level (C). 3. If the fluid is dirty, remove the drain plug (D) and drain the fluid. 4. Install the drain plug with a new washer, and refill the transmission fluid to the proper level. Fluid Capacity 4WD model: 1.9 liters (2.0 US quarts) at fluid change 2.25 liters (2.4 US quarts) at overhaul 2WD model: 1.9 liters (2.0 US quarts) at fluid change 2.15 liters (2.3 US quarts) at overhaul Always use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using engine oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives. 5. Install the oil filler plug with a new washer. Page 3436 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor B Replacement CMP Sensor B Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve. 3. Disconnect the CMP sensor B connector (A). 4. Remove CMP sensor B (B). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 489 Cruise Control Switch: Diagrams 136. Cruise Control Main Switch (EX; '04-'06 USA: LX) 137. Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch (EX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 6862 Page 882 22. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. lithe symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G301. Testing and Inspection Low Fuel Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection Low Fuel Indicator Test 1. Do the fuel gauge sending unit test. - If the system is OK, go to step 2. - If the system has any malfunction, repair it. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 30 seconds, then reinstall it. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) with the float at the E (EMPTY) position. - If the low fuel indicator is on, go to step 4. - If the low fuel indicator is not on, refer to the low fuel indicator circuit diagram and check the circuit. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 30 seconds, then reinstall it. 5. Lift the float above the LOW position. - If the low fuel indicator goes off, the system is OK. - If the low fuel indicator is still on, refer to the low fuel indicator circuit diagram and check the circuit. Page 2717 97. FTP Sensor Page 4472 Page 3609 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 2657 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 2395 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the ECM/PCM. Page 5362 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 8499 Diagram 115-1 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 6946 4. Reconnect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make sure these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 5543 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Page 8189 Oil Pressure Sender: Testing and Inspection Oil Pressure Switch Test 1. Remove the YEL/RED wire (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running. 3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil lever If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure. If the oil pressure is OK, replace the oil pressure switch. Page 3965 Page 7406 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 8419 Hazard Flasher Relay: Testing and Inspection Turn Signal/Hazard Relay Input Test 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the relay and fuse/relay box socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 3. 3. Make these input tests at the fuse/relay box. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Page 1212 Diagrams Page 6356 54. Under Middle Of Dash 156. Side Of Front Passenger's Seat (EX: Side Airbag) Locations 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment (EX) Page 2120 Disclaimer Page 1645 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Diagrams Charging System Component Location Index SRS Unit Replacement Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair SRS Unit Replacement SRS Unit Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the driver's and front passenger's airbag connectors. 3. Disconnect the side airbag connectors. 4. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 5. Remove the dashboard center lower cover. 6. Pull down the carpet, then remove the torx bolt (A) from the SRS unit. 7. Disconnect the connectors and remove the two torx bolts (A), then pull out the SRS unit. Installation 1. Install the new SRS unit (A) with Torx bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS unit; push them into position until they click. Page 1815 16. Install the side engine mount bracket. 17. Install the upper engine mount bracket (A), then tighten the bolt/nuts in the numbered sequence shown. 18. Install the ground cable (B). 19. Install the variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) oil control solenoid valve. 20. Connect the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connector (A) and VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (B). 21. Install the crankshaft pulley. 22. Install the cylinder head cover. 23. Install the drive belt. 24. Install the splash shield. 25. Perform the CKP pattern clear/CKP learn procedure. Page 6703 ^ Online, enter keyword AUDIO, NAVI, or RES, and select the appropriate removal procedure from the list. NOTE: If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, navigation DVD, etc.) is stuck in the unit, leave it there. The manufacturer will remove and return it. 3. Obtain an Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form, and complete the Technician section.To obtain the form, do this: ^ On ISIS, click on Technical Library, then click on Job Aids. ^ Select the applicable form from the list, and print it out: - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Audio System Component Repair Form - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Navigation System Component Repair Form - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Rear Entertainment System Component Repair Form Parts Manager: 4. Complete the parts manager's section of the Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form. Make sure you include your name, department, and dealership phone number on the form. 5. Identify the manufacturer. Units sent to the wrong manufacturer may not be shipped back within the usual 5-7 days. ^ Look for the number code on the face of the unit. ^ If the unit has no number code on its face, check the label on the unit housing, and compare the first two or three letters of the radio reference number (or the audio unit model number) to this list: Alpine - CM, CD, MR, or MF Clarion - PH Fujitsu Ten - CE or SD Panasonic - CQ or CR Pioneer KEH or DEH 6. Contact the manufacturer (see step 9) to request an estimate for the cost of the repair plus shipping. 7. Complete the required paperwork: ^ Paying by check - Make a dealership check out to the manufacturer for the cost of repair and return shipping. Make sure to include the check number on the form. NOTE: For all Panasonic products, make your check out to Komtec Electronics. ^ Paying by credit card (Visa or Mastercard only) - When you use a credit card, fill in all of these fields on the component repair form: - Credit card number - Credit card expiration date Page 4360 27. Transmission Housing (A/T) 124. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 6031 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 6595 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1616. Each transmitter uses one battery. 97-04 CR-V & 00-04 S2000 *1997-04 CR-V LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1998-04 CR-V EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-01 CR-V SE with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-04 S2000 with factory-installed keyless entry system 2002-04 CR-V with dealer-installed security system* Page 3871 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid B and C in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B, C and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance between the solenoid valve B terminals No. 1 and No. 2, and measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance between the solenoid valve C terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance of either of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. Page 6934 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Description and Operation Rear Bumper: Description and Operation Door and Bumper Reinforcement Beams Door and bumper reinforcement beams used on Honda vehicle are made from a metal equivalent to high strength steel. If high strength steel is heated, the strength of the steel will be reduced. If high strength steel is damaged, as in a vehicle accident, where the door and bumper reinforcement beams are bent, the beams may crack if an attempt is made to straighten them. For this reason, door and bumper reinforcement beams should NEVER be repaired; they should be replaced if they are damaged. NOTE: If a door beam is damaged, the whole door panel assembly should be replaced. Page 2158 Page 3183 43. EVAP Canister Purge Valve Page 6361 NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against its bracket before torquing the Torx bolts. 2. Reinstall the dashboard center lower cover. 3. Reconnect the driver's and front passenger's airbag connectors. 4. Reconnect the side airbag connectors. 5. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 6. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 7. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 215 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. ATF Level Check Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair ATF Level Check ATF Level Check NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission. 1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60 - 90 seconds after turning the engine off. 3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A) from the transmission, and wipe it with a clean cloth. 4. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission. 5. Remove the dipstick (A), and check the fluid level. It should be at the upper mark (B). 6. If the level is below the upper mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, hose and line joints, and cooler lines. If a problem is found, fix it before filling the transmission. If the level is above the upper mark, drain the ATF to proper level. 7. Pour the recommended fluid amount into the dipstick hole to bring it to the upper mark. Always use Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality. Page 5739 4. Remove the lock pin from the knuckle ball joint, then remove the castle nut. NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin as shown after tightening the new nut. 5. Install a hex nut or the ball joint thread protector onto the threads of the ball joint. Make sure the nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the threaded end of the ball joint pin. Page 29 4. Reconnect all connections to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Disconnect the J, M, and P connectors, and make these input tests at the connectors. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 5219 Multiple Junction Connector: Diagrams 190. C107 (Junction Connector) 191. C456 (Junction Connector) Page 206 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 1564 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 4596 (A/T) Page 8661 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 7099 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 3000 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor The FTP sensor converts fuel lank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM/PCM during the EVAP leak check. Page 2989 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Locations Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 1810 18. Remove the cam chain guide B. 19. Remove the cam chain guide A (A) and tensioner arm (B). 20. Remove the cam chain. Page 6178 47. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 851 34. Clutch Interlock Switch (M/T) Page 8375 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 7186 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 8684 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 8585 Map Light: Service and Repair Spotlights Test/Replacement 1. Turn the light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lenses (A) with a small screwdriver. 3. Remove the two mounting screws. 4. Disconnect the 2P connector (B) from the housing (C). 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table and the left mounting screw eyelet (D). 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb. If the bulb is OK, replace the spotlight assembly. Capacity Specifications Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications A/T Fluid Change 4WD ....................................................................................................................................... ........................................................................... 3.3 Qt (3.1L) 2WD ................................................... .............................................................................................................................................................. 3.1 Qt (2.9L) Total 4WD ............................................................................................................................................ ..................................................................... 7.6 Qt (7.2L) 2WD ......................................................... ........................................................................................................................................................ 6.9 Qt (6.5L) Page 8603 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 8157 52. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal E7 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 57. NO - Go to step 53. 53. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 54. Remove the glove box, then remove the PGM-FI main relay 1 (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 55. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.4 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 56. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 1. Page 4504 19. With a sponge,carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do NOT apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. - Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges. - Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. 20. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown. 21. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) around the edge of the windshield (B) between the side rubber dam (C), lower rubber dam (D), and molding (E) as shown. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner. 22. Use suction cups to hold the windshield over the opening, align it with the alignment marks made in step 16, and set it down on the adhesive. Page 4125 3. Connect the appropriate fittings to the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. Connect the red hose to the cooler outlet line (the line going to the external filter). Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet line. 4. Connect a shop air hose to the air purge valve. NOTICE The quick connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible. 5. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the cleaning process. 6. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF. 7. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler, then connect the red hose to the cooler inlet line. 8. Connect the blue hose to the cooler outlet line. 9. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is running, open and close the air purge valve periodically. 10. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF. 11. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines. Connect the red and blue hoses to each other. 12. Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used. 13. Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. 14. Unplug the cooler cleaner from the 110 V outlet. TOOL MAINTENANCE Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly: *^ Replace the two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters every 20 hours, based on hour meter reading. For more information on filter replacement, see the January 2008 Honda ServiceNews article, Hour Meter Tells You When to Replace ATF Cooler Cleaner Filters.* ^ Fill the tank so the ATF is 4.5 inches from the top of the filler hole; do not overfill. NOTE: If the fluid level is low, the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on and the tank heater will not work. ^ Replace the ATF in the tank when it looks dark or dirty. Page 6613 Page 6597 The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart, look at the FCC ID on the back. 1999-00 - FCC ID: E4EG8DN 2001-04 - FCC ID: OUCG8D-440H-A* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-01 Prelude With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 1999-01 Prelude with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 8325 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 6611 Page 1362 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 5094 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4965 The Honda Computer Memory Saver is indeed a real time saver, but here's a word of caution: Don't let the positive battery cable touch any body ground. It will cause a short that will either blow the fuse in the tool or cause a drop in system voltage resulting in the loss of any data that 5 in volatile memory. The Honda Computer Memory Saver is available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order one, just call and ask for FZRMS4000H. Page 2831 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: Recalls Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 1628 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 2376 97. FTP Sensor Page 8559 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 2933 142. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 & 2 Page 1173 Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 296 Air Bag Control Module: Diagrams 206. OPDS Unit (EX: Side Airbag) Page 5600 56. PSP Switch Front Suspension Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement Special Tools Required Hub disassembly tool 07GAF-SD40100 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 - Driver 07749-0010000 - Support base 07965-SD90100 - Ball joint thread protector 07AAF-SDAA100 Knuckle and Hub Replacement 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 2746 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 4135 Page 2540 Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection Idle Speed Inspection NOTE: - Leave the idle air control (IAC) valve connected. - Before checking the idle speed, check these items: - The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on. - Ignition timing - Spark plugs - Air cleaner - PCV system - Pull the parking brake lever up. 1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector. 2. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard. 3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed with no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off. 5. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with the heater fan switch on HI and air conditioner on, then check the idle speed. NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. If the idle is still out of specification, go to the Symptom Troubleshooting Index. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 6. Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve connector. Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Locations Power Window Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5127 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 4941 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 5043 Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection Starter Performance Test M/T 1. Disconnect the wire from the M terminal. 2. Make the connections as shown using as heavy a wire as possible (preferably equivalent to the wire used for the vehicle). To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds. 3. Connect the battery as shown. Be sure to disconnect the starter motor wire from the solenoid. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly. 4. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly. 5. Disconnect the battery from the starter body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly. 6. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise. 7. Reconnect the wire to the M terminal. Locations Air Door Actuator / Motor: Locations Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index 48. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 8579 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 8509 Wire Color Codes Page 4986 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 8667 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 2094 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Diagram Information and Instructions Interior Lighting Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5339 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Electrical Diagrams Accessory Power Sockets - Circuit Diagram Wiring Diagrams Page 8688 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information Use Worm-Style Clamps With the ATF Cooler Cleaner The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop. In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some more? Just call G-TFC, Inc. Page 3104 Page 8330 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4811 Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications Brake disc Thickness Front Standard or New .................................................................................................................................. .................................. 23.0 mm (0.91 inch) Service Limit .................................................................... ..................................................................................................... 21.0 mm (0.83 inch) Rear Standard or New ................................................................................................................................................ 8.9 9.1 mm (0.350 - 0.358 inch) Service Limit ........................................................................................... ................................................................................ 7.0 mm (0.28 inch) Runout Front Service Limit ........................................................................................................................................ ............................... 0.10 mm (0.004 inch) Rear Service Limit ........................................................................................................................................ ............................... 0.10 mm (0.004 inch) Parallelism Front and Rear Service Limit ........................................................................................................................................ ........................... 0.015 mm (0.0008 inch) Page 4085 Shift Solenoid: Diagrams 13. Shift Control Solenoid Valve A (A/T) 14. Shift Control Solenoid Valve B (A/T) 15. Shift Control Solenoid Valve C (A/T) Page 2908 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) Page 458 Wheel Speed Sensor: Connector Locations 127. Under Left Rear of Vehicle (EX) 130. Under Right Rear of Vehicle (EX) Page 1166 Drive Belt: Testing and Inspection Drive Belt Inspection 1. Inspect the belt for cracks and damage. If the belt is cracked or damaged, replace it. 2. Check that the auto-tensioner indicator (A) is within the standard range (B) as shown. If it is out of the standard range, replace the drive belt. Page 1699 Valve Clearance: Adjustments Adjustment NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C). 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC). The punch mark (A) on the variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust camshaft sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket. 3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check. Intake: 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Exhaust: 0.28 - 0.32 mm (0.011 - 0.013 inch) Adjusting screw locations 4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem, and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag. Page 2616 NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E3) and DLC terminal No.5. 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.5 and No.7. Is there 8.5 V or more? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 8. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 9. Check for continuity between DLC terminal No.7 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between DLC terminal No.7 and the ECM/PCM (E23). After repairing the wire, check for a DTC with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS, then go to the DTC Troubleshooting index. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions NO - Go to step 10. Page 1729 Page 535 39. Door Lower Switch, Right Rear 40. Door Upper Switch, Left Rear 41. Door Upper Switch, Right Rear Page 2758 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7122 15. With a sponge, carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do NOT apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. - Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges. - Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. 16. Cut a "V" in the end of nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown. 17. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) on the glass primer trace (B) you applied on step 14, and around the edge of the rear window (C) as shown. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner. 18. Use suction cups to hold the rear window over the opening, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 12, and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the rear window until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. Do not open or close the doors until the adhesive is dry. Page 5234 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 7075 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 3107 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 7079 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 7285 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 3875 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 3. Remove the mounting bolts, harness clamp brackets (A), and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 4. Remove the ATF joint pipes (D), O-rings (E), and gasket (F). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and harness clamp brackets. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect them securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 8662 Headlamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 3429 23. Left Side Of Engine Page 5148 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 6874 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 4651 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 1633 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7978 How to Identify Connector Terminals Service and Repair Overdrive Switch: Service and Repair O/D Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 5054 Disassembly/Reassembly Armature Inspection and Test 1. Remove the starter. 2. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure. 3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature. Page 8647 Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 8088 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 8203 82. Left Rear Door (Right Similar) Page 5194 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 3822 Countershaft Sensor: Service and Repair Countershaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the countershaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the countershaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the countershaft speed sensor, and install the countershaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 727 106. TP Sensor Page 6271 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Page 7678 ^ Online, enter keyword FRONT ARMREST, and select Front Seat Armrest Replacement - Driver's Seat from the list. 5. Remove the front seat-back cover far enough to access the cover's top mounting springs, but do not remove the side airbag: ^ Refer to page 20-92 of the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER REP, and select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list. NOTE: On DX and LX models, you must entirely remove the seat-back cover and all of the mounting springs. On EX models, you can unzip the back cover, disconnect the upper two springs, and pull it forward. 6. Pull back the seat-back foam, and apply the 40 x 120 mm wool felt strips to the front edge of both sides of the seat frame. Page 1617 Page 1375 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8103 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 2735 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3258 Air Filter Element: Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 8284 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 8543 Diagram 110-9 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 4422 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 8287 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4392 Page 7606 4. Reconnect all connections to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Disconnect the J, M, and P connectors, and make these input tests at the connectors. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 1211 Disclaimer Locations Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 2651 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 1843 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 5996 Compressor Clutch Relay: Description and Operation Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Clutch Relay When the ECM/PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode. Page 6844 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 2688 Engine Control Module: Connector Views 204. ECM/PCM Specifications Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve clearance (cold) Intake ................................................................................................................................................... ...................... 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Exhaust ............................................................... ....................................................................................................... 0.28 - 0.32 mm (0.011 - 0.013 inch) Page 7525 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Page 7311 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 1119 SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. Page 7060 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Page 3053 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch The PSP switch signals the ECM/PCM when the power steering load is high. Page 6389 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 6697 ^ For warranty repairs, go to the IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE procedure. ^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call. ^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM). IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE Service Technician: NOTE: ^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured audio, navigation, or RES unit. Do not call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. ^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the Reference Number only when there is a preexisting Tech Line contact. 1. With your completed Audio/Navigation/RES Worksheet, go to an iN workstation. 2. From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE, then click on AUDIO, then select Warranty Audio Order. 3. Select the model, year, and keyword (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES) for the vehicle you are working on, then click on Search. 4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the problem, go to step 5. Page 6506 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 5132 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Locations Auxiliary Power Outlet: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 6316 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 4161 1. Install the ATF pump drive gear (A), driven gear (B), and ATF pump driven gear shaft (C) in the main valve body (D). Lubricate all parts with ATF, and install the ATF pump driven gear with its grooved and chamfered side facing up. 2. Measure the side clearance of the ATF pump drive gear (A) and driven gear (B). ATF Pump Gears Side (Radial) Clearance: Standard (New): ATF Pump Drive Gear 0.210 - 0.265 mm (0.0083 - 0.0104 inch) ATF Pump Driven Gear 0.070 - 0.125 mm (0.0028 - 0.0049 inch) Page 6447 6. Remove the retractor bolt (A), then remove the rear seat belt (B) and retractor (C). 7. If necessary, remove the seat belt protector (D). 8. Install the seat belt in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Apply liquid thread lock to the anchor bolts before reinstallation. - Check that the retractor locking mechanism functions as described. - Before installing the anchor bolts, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt. Rear Seat Belt Buckle Rear Seat Belt Replacement NOTE: Check the rear seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to damage them during removal and installation. Seat Belt Buckle NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers. 1. Pull the rear seat up, and hold it with the strap. 2. Detach the hooks (A) and clip, then remove the inner support cover (B). Page 5652 22. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. lithe symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G301. Page 289 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7102 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 5448 192. C559 (Junction Connector) 196. C105 (Junction Connector) Page 7830 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. Page 2784 34. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and each item. Also replace the No, 6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. NO - Replace PGM-FI main relay 1. Also replace the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. 35. Inspect the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 48. NO - Go to step 36. 36. Remove the blown No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box. 37. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 38. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 39. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E9 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 40. NO - Replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse, and update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Page 8530 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 5062 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 8026 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 8090 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 568 Brake Light Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Pedal Position Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the brake pedal position switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be continuity when the brake pedal is pressed. - There should be no continuity when the brake pedal is released. 4. Check for continuity between No. 3 and No. 4 terminals (with cruise control). - There should be no continuity when the brake pedal is pressed. - There should be continuity when the brake pedal is released. 5. If necessary, adjust the pedal height or replace the switch. Page 5971 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 1087 between the adjusting bolt diameter and the pinch bolt hole diameter allows a small range of adjustment. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Loosen the flange nuts (A) and bolts, and adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. Tighten the flange nuts to the specified torque. NOTE: The camber angle can be adjusted up to ±15' (center of tolerance) by replacing one damper pinch bolt with the adjusting bolt. The camber angle can be adjusted up to ±30' by replacing both damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts. 3. Reinstall the front wheels, lower the front of the vehicle to the ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. 4. Measure the camber angle. - If the measurement is within specification, measure the toe-in. - If the measurement is not within specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Front Toe Inspection/Adjustment Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Center the steering wheel spokes. 2. Check the toe with the wheels pointed straight ahead. Front toe-in: 0 ± 3 mm (0 ± 0.11 inch) If no adjustment is required, remove the alignment equipment. - If adjustment is required, go to step 3. 3. Loosen the tie-rod locknuts (A) while holding the tie-rod end (B). 4. Turn the tie-rod arm (c) until the front toe is within specifications. 5. After adjusting, tighten the locknut while holding the tie-rod arm. Make sure the toe setting does not change. Rear Toe Inspection/Adjustment Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Check the toe. Rear toe-in: 2 [+2/-1] mm (0.08 [+0.08/-0.04 inch]) If no adjustment is required, remove the alignment equipment. Page 1791 Oil Pressure Sender: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch. 2. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch. Page 3733 HIM: UPDATING TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS ^ If you're updating a control module/unit on a new vehicle, make sure all its fuses were installed at PDI. ^ To prevent control unit/module damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power windows, moonroof, etc.) during the update. ^ Make sure the HDS Tablet, the HDS Pocket Tester, or the iN workstation has the latest version of HDS software. The HDS version number is on the HDS start-up screen. To find the latest HDS software information on ISIS, select Search by Vehicle, select Technical Library, expand the ServiceNews branch, select Keyword (All Models), enter keywords HDS VERSION, then select the latest article. NOTE: The screen is from an iN workstation. The HDS tablet and pocket tester screens are similar. *^Make sure the Database Update listed in a Honda service communication (service bulletin, product update, iN message, etc.) is the same or earlier than the ones listed on the Reprogramming screen of the MVCI (on the MVCI, select CM Update Mode, then select Reprogramming), or on the Page 7208 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 4302 8. Install the brake hose mounting bracket (A). Page 1837 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 2776 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 1624 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 1622 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 536 Door Switch: Testing and Inspection Rear Door Switch Test 1. Remove the rear door panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the rear door upper and rear door lower switch. 3. Check for continuity between the 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the rear door open. - There should be no continuity with the rear door closed. 4. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the faulty switch. Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 5894 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (c) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E) with a plastic hammer while drawing the knuckle outward, then remove the knuckle. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the knuckle. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - First install all the components and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values. Do not place the jack against the ball joint pin of the lower arm. - Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it. - Install a new lock pin on the castle nut after torquing. - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Replace the self-locking nuts, damper pinch bolts and nuts with new ones. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Wheel Bearing Replacement 1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. 2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions DVD Player: Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - CD/DVD Precautions Adhesive Labels or Protective Disc Covers on CDs or DVDs: A Big Taboo NOTE: This article applies to all Honda models with a factory- or dealer-installed CD/DVD player or changer. We can't emphasize this enough: Never put adhesive labels or protective disc covers on recordable CDs or DVDs to be used in automotive CD/DVD players or changers. Here's why: ^ Recordable CDs and DVDs are actually thicker than their pre-recorded brethern. Automotive players and changers use rollers to draw the disc into the unit. The added thickness of an adhesive label or a protective disc cover can cause the disc to jam when it's loaded into or ejected from the unit. ^ CD/DVD players or changers are exposed to high temperatures inside the vehicle. High temperature can cause the label adhesive to soften. This can cause the label to curl on the edges and even form bubbles. Curled edges can catch on the rollers and bubbles add thickness to the disc. Either one can cause the disc to jam. To cut down on customer-caused damage, all '05 and later 0/Ms include this notice: Do not use CDs with adhesive labels. The label can curl up and cause the CD to jam in the unit. Anytime a service customer comes in with a loading or ejecting problem for a CD/DVD player or changer, ask if he or she used any discs with adhesive labels or protective disc covers. If the answer is yes, contact your DPSM for possible goodwill assistance. If the answer is no, then replace the audio unit under normal warranty. Page 5601 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch The PSP switch signals the ECM/PCM when the power steering load is high. Page 2527 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 5343 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement Accessory Power Sockets Test/Replacement Front: 1. Carefully pry the accessory power socket and housing (A) out from the dashboard. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the socket. 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No.1 and No.2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G 502). - an open in the wire. - blown No.18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Rear: Page 8625 Marker Lamp: Service and Repair Side Marker Light Replacement 1. Remove the inner fender. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the side marker light (B). 3. Turn the bulb socket (C) 45 ° counterclockwise to remove it from the light. 4. Push the light out from inside of the front fender, and remove the light. 5. Install the light in the reverse order of removal. Page 2528 Idle Speed: By Symptom Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Locations Neutral Safety Switch: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 1860 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 6032 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 3353 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 6909 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Testing and Inspection Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Coolant Temperature Gauge Troubleshooting Before testing, check the No. 9 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Start the engine, and check the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). Does the MIL come and stay on? YES - Troubleshoot the cause of the ECM/PCM DTC, and recheck. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Check for a multiplex control unit DTC. Is a DTC indicated? YES - Troubleshooting the cause of the multiplex control unit DTC, and recheck. NO - Go to step 3. 3. Do the communication line check with the self-diagnosis procedure. Is the word "Error" indicated on the odo/trip meter display? YES - The gauge cannot receive the signal from the multiplex control unit and the ECM/PCM. Check for an open in the WHT/GRN wire (gauge connector terminal B10). NO - Go to step 4. 4. Do the gauge drive circuit check with the self-diagnosis procedure. Does the temperature gauge needle sweep from the minimum position to the maximum, then return to the minimum position? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Replace the gauge assembly. 5. Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM , and recheck. Does the symptom/indication go away? YES - Replace the ECM/PCM. NO - Substitute a known-good gauge assembly. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the gauge assembly. Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip SOURCE: Honda Service News March 2003 TITLE: Installing an In-Tank Fuel Pump/Sending Unit? Don't Forget a New Base Gasket, Locknut, and Fuel Line Retainers APPLIES TO: See Models Listed In Illustration SERVICE TIP: Whenever you install an in-tank fuel pump/sending unit into a plastic fuel tank, the S/M tells you to install a new base gasket. But did you know you also need to replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers as well? Make a note in the Fuel Supply System subsection of the appropriate S/Ms to also replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers. Then follow this handy chart to order the appropriate parts. Install the new gasket on the fuel tank side, not on the fuel pump/sending unit side; this ensures that the gasket doesn't get pinched or rolled. If you don't install the fuel pump/sending unit correctly, the MIL could come on with an EVAP control system leakage DTC set. The gasket and the locknut are currently available in Honda parts stock under separate part numbers. But soon, they'll be packaged under a single part number. The fuel sending unit, gasket, and locknut will also be packaged together under a single part number. The gasket and the locknut will then be discontinued as separate part numbers. Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 8564 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 3565 27. Transmission Housing (A/T) 124. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 3290 Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement 1. Remove the fuel pump. 2. Remove the clip (A). 3. Remove the fuel pressure regulator (B). 4. Install the regulator in the reverse order of removal with new O-rings (C). Make sure the regulator is installed with the drain hole (D) facing down. Page 6820 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 2472 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B CMP sensor B detects the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. Page 5313 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 7391 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. Locations Headlamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 1351 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 265 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 6229 NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against its bracket before torquing the Torx bolts. 2. Reinstall the dashboard center lower cover. 3. Reconnect the driver's and front passenger's airbag connectors. 4. Reconnect the side airbag connectors. 5. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 6. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 7. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 8054 2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (B) from the cable reel. Front Passenger's Airbag 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from dashboard wire harness B. Side Airbag 4. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner Page 6753 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. Page 5631 10. Immediately open the pressure control valve fully. If the pump is in good condition, the gauge should read at least this specification: 7,460 - 8,140 kPa (76 - 83 kgf/cm2, 1,080 - 1,180 psi) A low reading means pump output is too low for full assist. Repair or replace the pump. Page 6778 Wheel Bearings - Humming Or Growling Wheel Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins Wheel Bearings - Humming Or Growling SOURCE: Honda Service News November 2003 TITLE: Humming or Growling? Check the Wheel Bearings APPLIES TO: 1998-04 Accord, 2001-04 CR-V, 2003 Element, 1999-04 Odyssey SERVICE TIP: A bad front wheel bearing(s) can make a humming or growling that's easily mistaken for a noisy bearing or gear in the A/T. Before you order a reman A/T, test-drive the vehicle to make sure the A/T is really the problem. Listen carefully as you accelerate and decelerate during your test-drive. Shift into neutral. Varying throttle position and shifting into neutral changes the load on the A/T bearings and gears. If the A/T has a bad bearing or gear, the change in load will affect its noise level. If that's what you find, then go ahead and order a reman A/T. If the noise level isn't affected by changes in throttle position or shifting into neutral, then the culprit could be a bad front wheel bearing(s). Since the wheel bearings aren't mounted on shafts being spread apart by gears, they're not affected by changes in load. Also, since Honda uses angular contact wheel bearings, you won't normally hear a change in noise level when you swerve the vehicle from side to side. Hook up a STEELMAN® ChassisEAR (T/N JSP SM06600) to the front knuckles, and test-drive the vehicle again. Refer to S/B 00-063, STEELMAN ChassisEAR Diagnostic Tool, for more info. If you hear humming or growling from one or affected wheel bearing(s), and then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the noise is gone. If you don't hear any noise from the front wheel bearings, the problem could be from tire noise or vibration. Swap the front wheels and tires with a known-good vehicle. Testdrive the vehicle, and check if the noise or vibration goes away. STEELMAN(R) and ChassisEAR (R) are registered trademarks of J.S. Products, Inc. Page 5419 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 4999 Alternator: Service and Repair Disassembly and Reassembly Alternator Overhaul Charging System - Alternator Overhaul Exploded View Special Tools Required - Driver 07749-0010000 - Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400 NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure. 1. Test the alternator and regulator before you remove them. 2. Remove the alternator. 3. If the front bearing needs replacing, remove the pulley locknut with a 10 mm wrench (A) and a 22 mm wrench (B). If necessary, use an impact Page 4854 Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Replacement NOTE: Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Release the engine wire harness clips on the strut brace (A), and remove the strut brace. With M/T: Remove the clutch reservoir bracket from the vehicle, and move it aside. Do not disconnect the clutch hose from the reservoir. 2. Remove the reservoir cap and brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. 3. Remove the brake fluid level sensor connector (A). 4. Disconnect the brake lines (B) from the master cylinder (C). To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels. 5. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (D) and washers. 6. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster (E). Be careful not to bend or damage the brake lines when removing the master cylinder. 7. Remove the rod seal (F) from the master cylinder. 8. Install the master cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: ^ Replace all the rubber parts with new ones whenever the master cylinder is removed. ^ Check the pushrod clearance before installing the master cylinder, and adjust it if necessary. ^ Use a new rod seal on reassembly. ^ Coat the inner bore lip and outer circumference of the new rod seal with the recommended seal grease in the master cylinder set. ^ Install the rod seal onto the master cylinder with its grooved side (G) toward the master cylinder. ^ Check the brake pedal height and free play after installing the master cylinder, and adjust it if necessary. Page 2476 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor A Replacement CMP Sensor A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor A connector (A). 3. Remove the bolt (B). 4. Remove CMP sensor A (C). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision Rear Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision 10-011 March 5, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks BACKGROUND The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not currently covered in the service manuals. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2003-10 Accord - ALL 2006-10 Civic - ALL 2007-10 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2007-10 CR-V - ALL 2003-10 Element - ALL 2009-10 Fit - ALL 2010 Insight - ALL 2005-10 Odyssey - ALL 2009-10 Pilot - ALL 2006-10 Ridgeline - ALL SYMPTOM 1 When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then reverses on its own. PROBABLE CAUSE The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty. NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to Symptom 2. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example, if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door. NOTE: Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row. These steps clear the control unit's memory. 4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Page 5701 50. Press the pinion shaft/sleeve into the valve housing with a hydraulic press. Check that the pinion shaft/ sleeve turns smoothly by hand after installing it. 51. Coat the special tool with power steering fluid, then slide it onto the rack, big end first. 52. Position the new O-ring (A) and new piston seal ring (B) on the special tool, then slide them down toward the big end of the tool. Note these items during reassembly: ^ Do not over expand the resin seal ring. Install the resin seal ring with care so as not to damage it. After installation, be sure to contract the seal ring using the special tool (sizing tool). ^ Replace piston's O-ring and seal ring as a set. 53. Pull the O-ring off into the piston groove, then pull the piston seal ring off into the piston groove on top of the O-ring. 54. Coat the piston seal ring (A) and the inside of the special tool with power steering fluid, then carefully slide the tool onto the rack and over the piston seal ring. 55. Move the special tool back and forth several times to make the piston seal ring fits snugly in the piston. 56. Set the new bushing (A) on the special tool, and insert the special tools into the cylinder housing (B). 57. Set the cylinder in a press, and install the bushing (A) into the bottom of the cylinder by pressing on the tool with press. Do not push on the tool with excessive force as it may damage the new bushing. Page 5163 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 8388 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Airbag Deployment and Disposal Air Bag: Service and Repair Airbag Deployment and Disposal Deploying the Airbags/Tensioner (Inside Vehicle) Airbag Disposal Special Tool Required Deployment tool 07HAZ-SG00500 Before scrapping any airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), they must be deployed. If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District Parts and Service Manager must give approval and/or special instruction before deploying the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners. Only after the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners have been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for example), can they be scrapped. If the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, and seat belt buckle tensioners appear intact (not deployed), treat them with extreme caution. Follow this procedure. Deploying Airbags in the Vehicle If an SRS equipped vehicle is to be entirely scrapped, its airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, and seat belt buckle tensioners should be deployed while still in the vehicle. The airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, and seat belt buckle tensioners should not be considered as salvageable parts and should never be installed in another vehicle. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 2. Confirm that each airbag, side airbag, or seat belt tensioner is securely mounted. 3. Confirm that the special tool is functioning properly by following the check procedure on the tool label. Driver's Airbag: 4. Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector from the cable reel . Front Passenger's Airbag: 5. Lower the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector from the dashboard wire harness. Side Airbag: 6. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connectors from the floor wire harness. Seat belt tensioner: 7. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connectors from the floor wire harness. Pull the seat belt out all the way, and cut it off. Seat belt buckle tensioner: 8. Disconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors from the floor wire harness. Locations Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 1642 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 2083 Heater Control Valve Cable: Adjustments Heater Valve Cable Adjustment 1. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). 2. From under the dash, disconnect the heater valve cable housing from the cable clamp (A), and disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the air mix control linkage (C). 3. Set the temperature control dial on Max Cool with the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the air mix control linkage (C) as shown above. Hold the end of the heater valve cable housing against the stop (D), then snap the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A). 5. From under the hood, turn the heater valve arm (C) to the fully closed position as shown, and hold it. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the heater valve arm, and gently pull on the heater valve cable housing to take up any slack, then install the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A). Page 6672 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6298 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 2926 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Monitors, Trips, and/or Drive Cycle (Readiness Codes) Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Enable Criteria - Battery voltage is higher than 10.5 V. - With idle. - ECT sensor between 176 °F (80 °C) and 212 °F (100 °C). - MAP sensor less than 46.6 kPa (350 mmHg, 14 in.Hg). - Vehicle speed 0 mph (0 km/h). - IAT sensor between 32 °F (0 °C) and 212 °F (100 °C). Procedure 1. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC). 2. Start the engine. 3. Select EVAP TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS, then select the FUNCTION TEST in the EVAP TEST MENU. If they are normal, readiness is complete. - If they are not normal, go to the next step. 4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Enable Criteria ECT at 140 °F (60 °C) or higher. Procedure 1. Start the engine. 2. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. Check the readiness codes screen for Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor in the DTCs MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. - If the screen shows complete, readiness is complete. - If the screen shows not complete, go to the next step. 4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met. Select the DATA LIST Menu. Check the ECT in the ALL DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. If the ECT is lower than 140 °F (60 °C) , run the engine until it is higher than 140 °(60 °C), then repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Procedure 1. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 2. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Interior - Vinyl Seat Cleaning Precautions Seat Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Vinyl Seat Cleaning Precautions Avoid Aftermarket Cleaners on Element Vinyl Seats The chemicals used in some aftermarket vinyl cleaners and protectants can leave vinyl seats in Elements prone to cracking. These chemicals loosen the PVC material's molecular bond, making it sofier and less durable. This action, combined with wear from heavy seat usage, can cause the material to crack. If you've got a service customer that insists on using a vinyl protectant, we strongly suggest Honda Vinyl/Leather Protectant (P/N 08740-PC008, H/C 2140523). This silicone and water-based product shields against damage caused by water, weather, and most spills. It renews vinyl and leather for a long-lasting shine. It's also great for dashboards and tires. Page 1373 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Campaign - Warranty Extension for The Windshield Windshield: Recalls Campaign - Warranty Extension for The Windshield 06-084 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2003-04 Element - ALL Warranty Extension: 2003-04 Element Windshield (Supersedes 06-084, dated November 22, 2008) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND Under the terms of a class action settlement, American Honda is announcing a warranty extension for 2003-04 Element windshields. The windshields on these vehicles are now covered for cracking (under most conditions) for 6 years or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. *NOTE: Because of a different class action settlement unrelated to the windshield, the warranty extension coverage for windshields on affected vehicles purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 6 years or 63,000 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Customers were notified of the warranty extension through a letter sent to them by Gilardi Co., LLC. The text of the letter is shown above. Customer reimbursement forms are only available at the Gilardi website www.gilardi.com/hondaelement. Customers must send their request for reimbursement directly to Gilardi Co. within the timeline set by the court. Under the terms of the settlement, Honda dealerships cannot make reimbursements. Locations Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index 13. Right Side Of Engine Page 6034 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 1466 Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection MIL Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Do the gauge self-diagnostic procedure. Does the MIL indicator flash? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Substitute a known-good gauge assembly, and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK, replace the original gauge assembly. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the MIL. Does the MIL stay off? YES - Go to step 19. NO - Go to step 5. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), wait 20 seconds, and watch the MIL. Does the MIL stay on or flash more than 5 times? YES - Go to step 7. NO - The MIL circuit is OK. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and read the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS communicate with the ECM/PCM? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Go to "DLC Circuit Troubleshooting". 10. Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs in the DTCs MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs indicated? YES - Go to the DTC Troubleshooting Index. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions NO - Go to step 11. 11. Check the MIL in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Is it ON indicated? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Substitute a known-good gauge assembly, and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK, replace the original gauge assembly. 12. Check the SCS in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Is a short indicated? YES - Go to step 13. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Page 7844 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 332 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 1407 134. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) 135. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6802 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 5254 Relay Box: Diagrams 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4750 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 5166 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 5844 Wheel Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins Wheel Bearing - Correct Installation To Prevent DTC's SOURCE: Honda Service News February 2003 TITLE: Install Wheel Bearings Correctly to Prevent DTCs APPLIES TO: 2003 Accord, 2002-03 CR-V, 2003 Element SERVICE TIP: When you replace a wheel bearing in a make sure you install it correctly. If you don't, these ABS DTCs can set: - ABS DTC 12, 14, 16, 18 [wheel sensor (electrical noise/intermittent interruption)] - ABS DTC 21, 22, 23, 24 (magnetic encoder) The brown dust shield for the wheel bearing also doubles as a magnetic encoder for the ABS. Before you install the wheel bearing, make sure the encoder is clean and free of metallic particles, then install it so the encoder is toward the inside of the knuckle. Install the encoder carefully so you don't damage its surface. Page 2559 Ignition Timing: Testing and Inspection Ignition Timing Inspection 1. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC), and check for DTC's. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair the cause before inspecting the ignition timing. 2. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 3. Check the idle speed. 4. Follow the tester's prompts to get the tester in the "SCS" mode (see the operator's manual). 5. Free the service loop from the wire harness, then connect the timing light to the service loop. 6. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under no load condition: headlights, blower fan, rear window defogger, and air conditioner are not operating. 7. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, update the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the system work properly, and the ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM. 8. Disconnect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS and the timing light. 9. Secure the service loop to the wire harness with wire ties. Page 4460 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 7176 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 5632 Power Steering Pump: Testing and Inspection Pump Pressure Test With T/N 07406-0010001 Test Special Tools Required ^ P/S joint adapter (pump) 07VAK-P8A011A ^ P/S joint adapter plate (pump) 07ZAK-S7CA100 ^ P/S joint adapter (hose) 07ZAK-S7C0200 ^ P/S pressure gauge 07406-0010001 Check the fluid pressure as follows to determine whether the trouble is in the pump or gearbox. 1. Check the power steering fluid level. 2. Disconnect the pump outlet hose (A) from the pump outlet with care so as not to spill the power steering fluid on the alternator, frame and other parts. Install the P/S joint adapter (pump) on the pump outlet (B). 3. Connect the P/S joint adapter (hose) to the P/S pressure gauge, then connect the pump outlet hose to the P/S joint adapter (hose). 4. Install the P/S pressure gauge to the P/S joint adapter (pump). 5. Fully open the shut-off valve (A). 6. Fully open the pressure control valve (B). 7. Start the engine and let it idle. 8. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to warm the fluid to operating temperature at 158°F (70°). 9. Measure steady-state fluid pressure while the engine is idling. If the pump is in good condition, the pressure should be no more than 1,500 kPa (15 kgf/cm2, 213 psi). If the pressure is too high, check the outlet hose or valve body unit (see Steering System Troubleshooting). Raise the engine speed to 3,000 rpm, and measure the fluid pressure. If the pump is in good condition, the pressure should be at least 1,500 kPa (15 kgf/cm2, 213 psi). If the pressure is too high, repair or replace the pump. 10. Lower the engine speed and let it idle. Close the shut-off valve, then close the pressure control valve gradually until the pressure gauge needle is stable. Read the pressure. Capacity Specifications Page 4291 2. Remove the wheel cap, wheel nuts, and front wheel. 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. Diagrams Side Air Bag: Diagrams (EX: Side Airbag) (EX: Side Airbag) Page 1045 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Locations 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Page 2005 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 1630 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Diagrams Page 5555 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 4499 Windshield: Service and Repair Windshield Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with piano wire. - Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. 1. Remove these items: - Rearview mirror - A-pillar trim, both sides - Windshield wiper arms - Windshield side trim, both sides - Cowl covers 2. Remove the molding (A) from the edge of the windshield (B). If necessary, cut the molding with a utility knife. 3. If the old glass is to be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the glass and body with a grease pencil. 4. Pull down the front portion of the headliner. Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it. 5. Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and body. Using an awl, make a hole through the rubber dam, adhesive, and dashboard seal from inside the vehicle at the corner portion of the glass. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood. 6. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body and dashboard. Carefully cut through the rubber dam and adhesive (C) around the entire windshield. Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 8512 Page 1446 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Specifications Exhaust Manifold: Specifications Exhaust Manifold Torque Specifications Locations Combination Switch: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Component Location Index Page 2757 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle Idle Speed: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 2729 Wire Color Codes Service and Repair Overdrive Switch: Service and Repair O/D Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Locations Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Front Bumper Removal/Installation Front Bumper: Service and Repair Front Bumper Removal/Installation Front Bumper Removal/Installation NOTE: - Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the front bumper. - Take care not to scratch the front bumper and body. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the front grille cover. 2. Remove the front bumper as shown. 3. Install the bumper in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the front bumper engages the hooks of the side spacers and the front claddings on both sides securely. - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. Page 3524 19. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 20. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 21. Remove the shift lock solenoid harness clamp from the shift lever bracket, and remove the shift lock solenoid. 22. Replace the shift lock solenoid. 23. Install the new shift lock solenoid (A) on the shift lever/bracket assembly (B) with aligning the shift lock solenoid plunger (C) with the tip of the shift lock stop (D). 24. Install the harness clamp (E) on the shift lock solenoid harness (F) at 128 - 138 mm (5.0 - 5.4 inch) (G) from the harness terminal end. 25. Install the clamp in the hole (H) of the shift lever bracket. 26. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 27. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. Page 8660 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Testing and Inspection Air Conditioning Switch: Testing and Inspection A/C Pressure Switch Circuit Troubleshooting NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if any of these items are working properly with the A/C switch on; condenser fan, radiator fan and A/C compressor, or the heater does not work. Refer to the symptom troubleshooting index. See: Heating and Air Conditioning/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Turn the blower switch on, and check for blower motor operation. Does the blower motor run correctly on all speeds? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Troubleshoot the blower motor circuit. 3. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 2P connector and body ground. Is there 5V or more? YES - Go to step6. NO - Go to step 12. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C pressure switch. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Go to step 14. 8. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. 9. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector. 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 7358 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Page 7805 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 7809 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer Page 7513 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Switch Test Door Lock Switch Test 1. Remove the door panel. 2. Remove the two mounting screws and the door lock switch. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock switch is in the LOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock switch is in the neutral or UNLOCKED position. 4. Check for continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock switch is in the UNLOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock switch is in the neutral or LOCKED position. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the door lock switch. Page 1468 21. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminal E31 to body ground with a jumper wire. 22. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the MIL on? YES - Go to step 23. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E31) and the gauge assembly. 23. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 24. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 25. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and read the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS communicate with the ECM/PCM? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Go to "DLC Circuit Troubleshooting". 26. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 27. Inspect the No.20 IG (50A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Check for open in the wire between the No, 20 IG (50A) fuse and the ignition switch. If the wire is OK, go to step 28. NO - Repair short in the wire between No.20 IG (50 A) fuse and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Also replace the No.20 IG (50A) fuse. 28. Inspect the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 35. NO - Go to step 29. 29. Remove the blown No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse from the under-food fuse/relay box. 30. Remove the glove box, and remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (A). Page 8444 Exterior Lights Component Location Index A/T - Fixing Banjo Bolt Leaks Fluid Line/Hose: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fixing Banjo Bolt Leaks SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Fixing A/T Banjo Bolt Leaks APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Got ATF leaking from any of the A/T banjo bolts? The first thing you need to do is replace the sealing washers. Next, start threading the banjo and line bracket bolts in their holes. Finally, torque the banjo bolt to 31 Nm (22 lb-ft) and the line bracket bolt to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft.). NOTE: The banjo bolt torque spec we're recommending is slightly higher than what's listed in the S/M. This is intentional. If you torque just the banjo bolt, you won't really fix the leak. ATF leaks at the banjo bolt stem from the line bracket getting tightened before the banjo bolt. This can misalign the banjo joint, causing the banjo bolt sealing washers not to contact their mating surfaces evenly. Once the sealing washers have been used, you must replace them. Page 5165 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 473 58. Radiator Fan Switch Page 2452 81. Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) Page 7886 5. Push down and hold the power window switch. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 7. Release the powerwindow switch. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps. 8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep holding the switch for 1 second. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2. SYMPTOM 2 The windows are slow to open. PROBABLE CAUSE The run channel is damaged or dirty. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting. 1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle: ^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required. ^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window regulator speed. ^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator. ^ If the speed is faster without the glass, go to step 2. NOTE: When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the full up position because damage can occur to the regulator. 2. Inspect the visible portion of the run channel for damage. Page 2837 126. Under Middle Of Vehicle Page 5771 Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement 1. Remove the brake hose mounting bracket (A). 2. Separate the bearing unit (A) from the knuckle (B). 3. Separate the hub (A) and backing plate (B) from bearing unit (C) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the bearing unit with a press attachment (D) or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 6181 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Evaporator Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the evaporator temperature sensor (B), then remove the connector clip (C). Turn the evaporator temperature sensor clockwise to the stop, and carefully pull it out. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 413 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Switch Test Door Lock Switch Test 1. Remove the door panel. 2. Remove the two mounting screws and the door lock switch. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock switch is in the LOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock switch is in the neutral or UNLOCKED position. 4. Check for continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock switch is in the UNLOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock switch is in the neutral or LOCKED position. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the door lock switch. Page 2895 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6706 Page 2519 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Service and Repair Alarm System Transponder: Service and Repair Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver Replacement 1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer control unit-receiver (B). 4. Remove the two screws and the immobilizer control unit-receiver from the ignition key cylinder (C). 5. Install the immobilizer control unit-receiver in the reverse order of removal. 6. After replacement, rewrite the unit with a Honda PGM Tester or the HDS, then check the immobilizer system. Page 2686 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 741 81. Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) Page 532 Door Switch: Connector Locations 86. Left Rear Door 87. Left Rear Door Page 1434 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Service and Repair VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is sticking or is clogged replaced it; then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. Service and Repair Hood Latch: Service and Repair Hood Latch Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the body. 1. Remove the front grille cover. 2. Remove the bolts, then remove the hood latch (A) from the body. 3. Disconnect the hood opener cable (A) from the hood latch (B). Take care not to bend the cable. Page 1270 Disclaimer Page 6299 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 7998 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 2960 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor A Replacement CMP Sensor A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor A connector (A). 3. Remove the bolt (B). 4. Remove CMP sensor A (C). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 7101 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 8511 Page 1893 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Page 4126 Disclaimer Page 3659 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 120 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 5862 8. Install the brake hose mounting bracket (A). Page 3465 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor B Replacement CMP Sensor B Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve. 3. Disconnect the CMP sensor B connector (A). 4. Remove CMP sensor B (B). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 5373 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 5052 14. Measure the brush length (A). If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Starter Brush Holder Test 15. Check that there is no continuity between the (+) brush (A) and (-) brush (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Planetary Gear Inspection 16. Check the planetary gears (A) and ring gear (B). Replace them if they are worn or damaged. Overrunning Clutch Inspection 17. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly. Page 7819 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 4906 Braking Sensor/Switch: Adjustments Brake Pedal and Brake Pedal Position Switch Adjustment Pedal Height 1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer touching the brake pedal. 2. Lift up the carpet. At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height (B) from the middle of the pedal pad (C). Standard Pedal Height (with carpet removed): M/T: 178 mm (7 inch) A/T: 180 mm (7 3/32 inch) 3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod in or out with pliers until the standard pedal height from the floor is reached. After adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed. Adjustments Shift Cable: Adjustments Shift Cable Adjustment 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 3. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 4. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 5. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 6. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 2157 Disclaimer Page 6026 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 5678 8. Check for unusual steering effort through the complete turning travel. 9. Check the steering wheel rotation play and the power assist. Service and Repair Clutch Pedal Assembly: Service and Repair Clutch Pedal Replacement 1. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch connector (A) and clutch interlock switch connector (B). 2. Pry out the lock pin (C), and pull the pedal pin (D) out of the yoke. 3. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (E) and clutch pedal mounting bolt (F). 4. Remove the clutch pedal (G). 5. Install the clutch pedal (A). 6. Install the clutch pedal mounting bolt (B) and master cylinder mounting nuts (C). 7. Apply grease to the pedal pin (D) and slide it into the yoke, then install a new lock pin (E). 8. Connect the clutch pedal position switch connector (F) and clutch interlock switch connector (G). 9. Adjust the clutch pedal, clutch pedal position switch, and clutch interlock switch. Page 8534 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 6459 Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Diagrams 104. Seat Belt Switch, Driver's 105. Seat Belt Switch, Front Passenger's Page 1507 2. Release the parking brake lever. 3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and hang the caliper (C) to one side. To prevent damage to the caliper or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the undercarriage. 5. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screw (A), and screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the brake disc/drum (B) to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the brake disc/drum excessively. Remove the brake disc/drum. Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 2044 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 3532 8. Install the new O-rings (two O-rings per a solenoid valve) (F) on the good solenoid valve. The replacement solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. 9. Install shift solenoid valves A, C, and E by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valves until their mounting bolt brackets contact the servo body. NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve B before installing shift solenoid valve E. If solenoid valve B is installed before solenoid valve E, it may damage the hydraulic control system. 10. Install shift solenoid valve B by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valve until its mounting bolt bracket contacts the bracket of installed solenoid. 11. Connect shift solenoid valve A connector (G) with the ATF temperature sensor. 12. Connect solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 14. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 15. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 16. Remove the transmission jack. 17. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 4310 Flex Plate: Service and Repair Drive Plate Removal and Installation 1. Remove the drive plate (A) and washer (B) from the engine crankshaft. 2. Install the drive plate and washer on the engine crankshaft, and tighten the eight bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or more steps. Page 4911 Page 8158 56. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM/PCM connector terminal E7. Is there continuity? YES - Test PGM-FI main relay 1. If the relay is OK, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and the ECM/PCM (E7). 57. Reconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 58. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 59. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminals A2 and A3 individually. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 66. NO - Go to step 60. 60. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 61. Remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (A). 62. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Diagram Information and Instructions Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5346 1. Carefully pry the accessory power socket (A) out from the right rear side trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the socket. 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G 451, G551). - an open in the wire. - blown No. 18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - blown No. 2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - faulty rear accessory power socket relay. Page 7344 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Make sure the rear window defogger wire harness on each side is not pinched. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 6030 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 1679 Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Tightening Torques & Sequences 1. Tighten the bearing cap bolts in sequence to 29 Nm (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft. lbs.). 2. Tighten the bearing cap bolts an additional 56° using a commercially available torque angle gauge. 3. Tighten the 8 mm bolts in sequence to 22 Nm (2.2 kgf-m, 16 ft. lbs.). Page 5604 22. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. lithe symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G301. Page 7356 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. Page 3592 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 7543 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 3901 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 1. 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) 2. 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) Page 7445 2003-04 Accord DX with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Element with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot EX models with factory-installed security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 91-93 Accord 5-D00R EX Page 5452 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 747 132. Transmission Housing (M/T) Page 1504 3. Remove the snap ring (A) and the splash guard (B) from the knuckle (C). 4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (c), a steel plate (D), the special tool, and a press. NOTE: (with ABS): Install the wheel bearing with the magnetic encoder (E) (brown color) toward the inside of the knuckle. - Remove any oil, grease, dust metal debris, or other foreign material from the encoder surface. - Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. - Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing. Page 127 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Testing and Inspection Drive Belt Tensioner: Testing and Inspection Drive Belt Auto-tensioner Inspection 1. Check whether there is a change in the position of the auto-tensioner indicator before starting the engine and after starting the engine. If there is a change in the position, replace the auto-tensioner. 2. Check for abnormal noise from the tensioner pulley. If abnormal noise is heard, replace the tensioner pulley. 3. Remove the drive belt. 4. Move the auto-tensioner within its limit with the belt tension release tool in the direction shown. Check that the tensioner moves smoothly and without any abnormal noise. If the tensioner does not move smoothly or there is abnormal noise, replace the auto-tensioner. 5. Remove the auto-tensioner. 6. Clamp the auto-tensioner (A) by using two 8 mm bolts (B) and a vise (C) as shown. Do not clamp the auto-tensioner itself. Page 4874 Component Locations Wheel Speed Sensor: Component Locations 120. Right Side of Engine Compartment 123. Left Side of Engine Compartment Page 3685 Updating Honda Control Modules screen on the HDS tablet, the HDS pocket tester, or the iN workstation. MVCI:* iN Workstation: NOTE: The HDS tablet and pocket tester screens are similar. *^If the Database Update listed in the service bulletin is later than that shown by the software, please see the the procedures for software installation in the following documents in Tool Information on ISIS (go to General Publications, then Tool Information): - MVCI User Guide (see HDS MVCI Firmware Update section) - Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) Tablet Setup Instructions - Installation Instructions for HDS ( see PC Software for the GNA600, HIM or Pocket Tester ID)* ^ Do not connect an additional power supply to the updating equipment when it is connected to the vehicle; power is supplied through the DLC. ^ To ensure that the control module/unit is not permanently damaged during updating, vedfy that the vehicle's 12-volt battery is fully charged before starthg an update. NOTE: If the vehicle's 12-volt battery drops below 10 volts during the update, the programming status bar may go past 100 percent, or the updating tool may display an error message. ^ If you have a problem during an update (D4/ immobilizer indicator flashes, update tool freezes, etc.), you can minimize the chances of damaging the control unit/module by doing one or more of these actions: - CRITICAL: Keep the ignition switch in ON (II). - Connect a jumper battery (DO NOT connect a battery charger). - Disconnect the updating tool from the vehicle's DLC. - Reboot the updating tool. - Reconnect the updating tool to the vehicle's DLC, and retry the updating procedure. *UPDATING WITH THE MVCI Make sure you have the latest control module (CM) Update software loaded from your HDS PC to your MVC I. For loading instructions and other Page 5689 18. Clean off any grease contamination from the ball joint tapered section and threads. Then reconnect the tie-rod end (A) to the damper steering arms. Install the 12 mm nut (B), and tighten it to the specified torque. 19. Install a new cotter pin (c), and bend it as shown (D) or (E). 20. Install the steering joint (A), and reconnect the steering shaft (B) and pinion shaft (C). Make sure the steering joint is connected as follows: ^ Insert the upper end of the steering joint onto the steering shaft (line up the bolt hole (D) with the flat portion (E) on the shaft). ^ Slip the lower end of the steering joint onto the pinion shaft (line up the bolt hole with the groove (F) around the shaft), and loosely install the lower joint bolt. Be sure that the lower joint bolt is securely in the groove in the pinion shaft. ^ Pull on the steering joint to make sure that the steering joint is fully seated. Then install the upper joint bolt and tighten it. Tighten the lower joint bolt to specified torque. 21. Install the driver's dashboard under cover. 22. Install the front wheel, then set the wheels in the straight ahead position. 23. Center the cable reel by first rotating it clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise (about two and a half turns) until the arrow mark on the label points straight up. Reinstall the steering wheel. 24. Fill the system with power steering fluid, and bleed air from the system. 25. After installation, perform the following checks. ^ Start the engine, allow it to idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to warm up the fluid. Check the gearbox for leaks. ^ Perform the front toe inspection. ^ Check the steering wheel spoke angle. If steering spoke angles to the right and left are not equal (steering wheel and rack are not centered), correct the engagement of the joint/ pinion shaft serrations, then adjust the front toe by turning the tie-rods, if necessary. Page 7982 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 60 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 2747 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 8050 - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. After you reconnect the battery: - Do the engine idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the radio anti-theft code, enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Page 502 Oil Pressure Sender: Testing and Inspection Oil Pressure Switch Test 1. Remove the YEL/RED wire (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running. 3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil lever If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure. If the oil pressure is OK, replace the oil pressure switch. Page 4748 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 7987 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 4073 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 288 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 1625 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 1122 Idle Speed: Specifications Engine idle Idle speed without load M/T in neutral ....................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 700 ± 50 rpm A/T in N or P position ................................................. ........................................................................................................................... 700 ± 50 rpm Idle speed with high electric load (A/C switch ON, temperature set to Max Cool, blower fan on High, rear window defogger ON, and headlights on high beam) M/T in neutral ....................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 720 ± 50 rpm A/T in N or P position ................................................. ........................................................................................................................... 720 ± 50 rpm Connecting Rod Bolt Inspection Connecting Rod: Testing and Inspection Connecting Rod Bolt Inspection Inspection 1. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B. 2. Calculate the difference in diameter between point A and point B. Point A-Point B = Difference in Diameter Difference in Diameter: Specification: 0 - 0.1 mm (0 - 0.004 inch) 3. If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt. Locations Hazard Warning Switch: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Component Location Index Page 8394 Dome Lamp: Service and Repair Ceiling Light Test/Replacement 1. Turn the light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screwdriver. 3. Remove the two mounting screws. 4. Disconnect the 3P connector (B) from the housing (C). 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb. If the bulb is OK, replace the ceiling light assembly. Service and Repair Strut / Shock Tower: Service and Repair Removal Front Wheel house - Cut and remove the wheelhouse upper member. - When replace the front wheelhouse, if necessary, cut the front damper extension. Left side: - When removing the front wheelhouse M/T: Leave the transmission mount bracket attached to the front side frame. A/T: When replacing the front wheelhouse, support the wheelhouse and transmission mount bracket as an assembly. Right side: Page 4667 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Page 7456 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Passport (Except 1995-1/2) 1994-95 Passport (except 19951A) with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be accepted. Page 5649 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch The PSP switch signals the ECM/PCM when the power steering load is high. Page 5421 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6079 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Page 6590 1991-93 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry or dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter The transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code number. The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car. Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and glove compartment lock. To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery is not replaceable. 91-93 Accord 5-Door LX 1991-93 Accord 5-door LX with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address: Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90501-5745 Specifications Firing Order: Specifications Firing Order ......................................................................................................................................... ..................................................................... 1-3-4-2 Page 226 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Service and Repair Parking Light Bulb: Service and Repair Bulb Replacement Front Turn Signal/Parking Light: 1. Disconnect the connector (A) from the light. 2. Turn the bulb sockets (B) 45 ° counterclockwise to remove it from the headlight housing. 3. Install the new bulb in the reverse order of removal. Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: Recalls Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: Customer Interest Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 5997 Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 488 33. Left Side Of Dash 34. Inside Steering Wheel Page 8311 How to Identify Connector Terminals Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 6033 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Recommendation GF-4 Standard SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Use ONLY New GF-4 Standard Engine Oil APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: There's a new performance standard for engine oil: GF-4. It was jointly developed by automotive and oil experts, and it represents a significant performance upgrade and improvement in fuel economy. GF-4 engine oils must pass grueling tests totaling over 500 hours. On top of this, Honda Genuine engine oils are also tested to ensure specific compatibility with Honda vehicles. GF-4 engine oil is compatible with all current and earlier model year Honda cars and trucks. It also provides these added benefits: - Improved oxidation resistance (reduced thickening of the oil) - Improved deposit protection and better wear protection - Better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil - Environmental protection by extending the life of emissions systems While Honda has upgraded its engine oil to GF-4, other brands may not yet be at this new standard. Keep in mind you must use Honda Genuine engine oil for all warranty repairs. If you use some other brand of oil for non-warranty repairs, make sure that oil meets the GF-4 standard. We recommend you stop using non-GF-4 engine oils and check with your supplier that you're purchasing GF-4 oil. Engine oil produced after April 1, 2005, that meets the GF-4 standard, must post this starburst certification mark on the container. Always look for this mark; some oil container labels won't specifically refer to GF-4. Page 1439 Fuse Block: Service and Repair Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash fuse/relay box (A). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal, and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presents. 7. Confirm that all systems work properly. Page 2682 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 6716 NOTE: Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Warranty Audio VIN Inquiry screen on the iN. For details, go to WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS in this service bulletin. 7. You will receive a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit packed in a reusable shipping box. Save this box and the packing materials. You must return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this box. Otherwise your dealership risks being billed a core loss charge, ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit. 8. Remove the failed audio/navigation/RES unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or, ^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate removal procedure from the list. 9. Install the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or ^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate installation procedure from the list. 10. If the remanufactured unit has a shipping cover and shipping screws, make sure you transfer them to the faulty unit being returned. Also be sure to transfer all of the mounting brackets to the replacement unit. Failure to do this may result in dash squeaks and rattles. NOTE: If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is stuck in the unit, leave it there for these reasons: ^ The manufacturer needs it for diagnosis and testing. ^ Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable core. Customer media (CDs, CD magazines, DVDs, DVD-As, cassette tapes, etc.) will be properly removed by the supplier at the point of tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealer. Make sure the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not disassembled! If the core is disassembled, your dealership will be debited a core loss charge ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit. 11. Put the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit came in. NOTE: If you do not return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this same box, your warranty claim will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership. Parts Manager: 12. The Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60 days. Print out a copy to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE. ^ Click on Transactions. ^ Click on Advanced Search, and enter a date range. ^ Click on Filtered by Service. ^ Under Transaction Description, click on Warranty Audio Order, then go back to the top of the page and click on Search. ^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon. 13. Print out a copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, click on PARTS. Page 5374 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Master Switch Test/Replacement Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Master Switch Test/Replacement Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the switch panel. 2. Remove the door handle. 3. Disconnect the 20P connector from the power window master switch. Front Passenger's Switch 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. Driver's Switch: The driver's switch is combined with the control unit so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty. NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure. if you disconnect the switch or replace it. Page 3177 Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Catalytic Converter - Rotten Egg Smell SOURCE: Honda Service News July 2003 TITLE: Rotten Egg Smell? Could Be the Catalytic Converter APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Are customers complaining of a rotten egg smell, but you can't find anything wrong with their vehicles to account for it [there's no DTC(s) set, no driveability problems reported, nothing damaged or broken]? Then it could well be coming from the catalytic converter. That smell is a release of built up hydrogen sulfide (H2S) from the reaction of organic sulfur compounds in the gasoline with the catalyst in the converter. Almost all gasoline contains some amount of organic sulfur compounds, and that amount varies by region. The more sulfur there is in the gasoline, the more H2S is built up and released by the catalytic converter, so the stronger the smell. In California, where low-sulfur gasoline is actually required by state law, sulfur smell complaints are few and far between. The folks at the Environmental Protection Agency have issued a requirement for the phasing-in of low-sulfur gasoline nationwide between 2004 and 2006. This low-sulfur gasoline should go a long way toward making complaints of rotten egg smell a thing of the past. Page 279 Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Specifications Water Pump: Specifications Water Pump Torque Specifications Page 7657 ^ Online, enter keyword FRONT ARMREST, and select Front Seat Armrest Replacement - Driver's Seat from the list. 5. Remove the front seat-back cover far enough to access the cover's top mounting springs, but do not remove the side airbag: ^ Refer to page 20-92 of the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER REP, and select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list. NOTE: On DX and LX models, you must entirely remove the seat-back cover and all of the mounting springs. On EX models, you can unzip the back cover, disconnect the upper two springs, and pull it forward. 6. Pull back the seat-back foam, and apply the 40 x 120 mm wool felt strips to the front edge of both sides of the seat frame. Page 8053 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing a front airbag, side airbag, or other SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel, the front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, the seat belt buckle tensioners, and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors or the side airbag connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector A (1) from the SRS unit, disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3), the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (4), the driver's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (6), and the front passenger's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (7). - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B (8) from the SRS unit, disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (11, 12), and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (9, 10). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (2), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3). - Before disconnecting the floor wire harness 4P connector (5), disconnect both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (6, 7). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. Driver's Airbag Page 4810 Finishing the Job Remove the vibration damper and the protective band (if used). Use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the brake disc. Make sure the thickness is within the service manual specifications. Clean the brake disc with soapy water or brake cleaner, then wipe it dry. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any dust or chips, but do not use compressed air. Unplug the tool bed feed motor from the drive motor assembly, and remove the mounting yoke from the brake disc. Remove the speed mount from the steering knuckle. Apply a small amount of Molykote 77 grease to the brake pad shims. Reinstall the caliper assembly. (If you did not use the power drive system, use the brake pad spreader to push the pistons back into the caliper.) Torque the nuts and bolts to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual). Refinish the other front brake disc using the same guidelines. Check the brake fluid level, then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the brake pedal is firm and does not pulsate. Lightly apply the brakes about 20 times during the test-drive to seat the brake pads. REAR BRAKE DISCS It is possible to use an on-car lathe on some models if the rear caliper mounts are low enough to clear the vehicle body. A power driver is needed for front drive models. Refinish rear brake discs on bench-mounted equipment if necessary. Follow the same guidelines you used for refinishing front brake discs, noting these differences: ^ Mount the brake lathe to the rear knuckle with the Honda 2-Piece Adapter (P/N KWY-1 08102504). You can order the 2-piece adapter through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION). Disclaimer Page 8453 Horn Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7087 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Page 5422 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 6717 ^ Click on Returns and Surplus. ^ Click on Audio Core Return. ^ Select the appropriate VIN to view the Update Core Return information screen. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon. 14. Place the printed copies of the Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form and the Core Return Update Acknowledgement into the core return box with the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core. NOTE: If you return a failed audio/navigation/RES core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership. 15. Ship the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core to the appropriate location by using the prepaid shipping label that came with the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit. NOTE: If the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not received at the specified address within 30 days from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, your warranty claim will be debited, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. If you know that you cannot return the core within 30 days, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group, and ask for an extension. ^ If you call for an extension and the core is not received within 60 days from the order date, you will be debited the full amount of the warranty claim. ^ If you do not call for an extension, and the core is received between 31 and 60 days from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, a $250 late core charge will be assessed. WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Here is a list of answers to the most frequently asked questions about the warranty audio order program: Question: When do I use the warranty audio order program? Answer: Use the program when you are replacing an audio/navigation/RES unit under warranty (including goodwill) that has an internal failure. NOTE: The customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is removed by the supplier at tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealership. Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable core, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. Remanufactured audio/navigation/RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs. New components should be used to repair new, unsold vehicles. A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured component is currently unavailable from American Honda. Your DPSM must authorize ordering a new component. Question: How do I order a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit? Answer: For a warranty replacement, use the ordering information IN WARRANTY EXCHANGE. For goodwill repair, contact your DPSM. For a non-warranty repair, see OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR. Question: Who do I call for questions on the Warranty Audio Order Program? Answer: For administrative questions, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. Testing and Inspection Brake Hose/Line: Testing and Inspection Brake Hoses and Lines Inspection 1. Inspect the brake hoses, for damage, deterioration, leaks, interference, and twisting. 2. Check the brake lines for damage, rusting, and leakage. Also check for bent brake lines. 3. Check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. 4. Check the master cylinder and ABS modulator unit (if equipped) for damage and leakage. NOTE: Replace the brake hose clip whenever the brake hose is serviced. Page 2844 Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Secondary HO2S Replacement Secondary HO2S Replacement Special Tools Required O2 sensor wrench. Snap-on YA8875, SP Tools 93750, or equivalent, commercially available 1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B). 2. Install the secondary HO2S in the reverse order of removal. Page 5263 Relay Box: Service and Repair Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash fuse/relay box (A). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal, and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presents. 7. Confirm that all systems work properly. Page 8575 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 6868 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3682 GNA600: (No longer available for purchase) Page 5465 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 3616 Page 4977 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4297 2. Release the parking brake lever. 3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and hang the caliper (C) to one side. To prevent damage to the caliper or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the undercarriage. 5. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screw (A), and screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the brake disc/drum (B) to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the brake disc/drum excessively. Remove the brake disc/drum. Page 6443 6. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner connector (A). Remove the upper retractor mounting bolt (B) and the lower retractor bolt (C), then remove the front seat belt (D) and retractor (E). 7. If necessary, remove the seat belt protector (F). 8. Remove the rear door trim. 9. Remove the shoulder anchor adjuster (A). Page 3042 Oxygen Sensor: Diagrams 112. A/F Sensor 123. Secondary HO2S Page 6705 Ramsey, NJ 07446 800-433-9657 (Visteon offers an open line of credit. Call their 800 number to establish an account.) NOTE: ^ The manufacturer will repair the unit and ship it back within 5-7 working days, via UPS ground prepaid or 2nd Day Air (whichever you requested). Do not forget to include the shipping cost in your dealership payment. Units damaged by misuse or mishandling cannot be shipped back within the usual 5-7 days. ^ Each manufacturer's guarantee for the repair differs. To confirm the repair guarantee, contact the manufacturer using the phone number listed above. 10. To check on the status of your repair order, call the manufacturer. If your customer has any further questions or concerns, have them call Automobile Customer Service at 800-999-1009. NOTE: A damaged unit may need extra repair. If so, the manufacturer will call you with an estimate of any added charges. ^ If you accept the estimate, mail a dealership check for the additional amount to the manufacturer, authorize the increased amount to be applied to the credit card payment, or have the manufacturer ship the unit back to you, and you pay the difference upon arrival (C.O.D.). ^ If you reject the estimate, the faulty unit will be returned to you along with a refund. However, you will be charged $30.00 (C.O.D.) for diagnosis, shipping, and handling. The unit will be shipped back to you, via UPS Ground. COMPLETING THE OUT-OF-WARRANTY/NEW REPLACEMENT AUDIO SYSTEM COMPONENT REPAIR FORM Page 8621 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 4560 16. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 17. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 18. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Component Locations Alarm Module: Component Locations 36. In Steering Column Cover 138. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 909 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Check for continuity between O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 while pushing the O/D switch toggle. The O/D switch terminals continuity is toggled by pushing the O/D switch ON and OFF. 13. If the O/D switch works properly, connect the connector and install the removed parts. If the switch is faulty, go to step 14, and replace the switch. 14. Remove the shift lever assembly. 15. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 16. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 17. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 2756 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 459 Wheel Speed Sensor: Diagrams 84. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front (EX) 85. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Rear (EX) 86. Wheel Speed Sensor, Right Front (EX) Locations Interior Lights Component Location Index Page 4419 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 7342 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - When installing the rear side trim panel, make sure the seat belt is not pinched. - Push the clips into place securely. D-Pillar Trim/Rear Roof Trim 1. Remove these items, then remove the trim as shown: - Quarter pillar trim - Upper portion of the rear side trim panel as needed - Rear ceiling light Page 5439 210. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Page 5959 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5259 210. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Diagrams 140. Keyless Receiver Unit Page 7193 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Page 3045 Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Oxygen Sensor Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the three way catalytic converter (TWC), and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output; the sensor has an internal heater. The ECM/PCM compares the HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is located on the TWC. Page 974 Standard: 50 Ohms - 25 k Ohms 9. If the resistance is out of standard, replace the shift solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not available separately from the shift solenoid harness. 10. Disconnect the connectors from the shift solenoid valves. 11. Connect the shift solenoid valve A connector (BLU wire) with the ATF temperature sensor (F) on the new solenoid harness. 12. Connect the solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the new O-ring (G) on the shift solenoid harness connector (H), and install the connector in the transmission housing. 14. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 15. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 16. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 17. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. 18. Remove the transmission jack. 19. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 8037 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 2119 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 7527 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 6307 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 5129 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Body - Liftgate Rattles/Hatch Open Indicator On Trunk / Liftgate Striker: Customer Interest Body - Liftgate Rattles/Hatch Open Indicator On 04-022 March 8, 2008 Applies To: 2003-08 Element - ALL Hatch Open Indicator On, Rear Interior Light On, or Tailgate Rattles (Supersedes 04-022, dated April 13, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks) SYMPTOM The rear hatch open indicator or rear interior light comes on and/or the tailgate rattles. PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect striker position and/or improperly adjusted cushions. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check the striker and cushion adjustments. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 823380 Flat Rate Time: 0.2 hour Failed Part: P/N 74813-SCV-A01 H/C 7286032 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03228 Template ID: 04-022A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. With the hatch open, compare the level of the tailgate to the level of the taillights. The tailgate edge should be recessed 1 to 2 mm in relation to the taillight. ^ If the measurement is correct, go to step 3. ^ If the measurement is not correct, go to step 2. Maintenance Required Indicator Doesn't Reset Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Technical Service Bulletins Maintenance Required Indicator Doesn't Reset SOURCE: Honda Service News February 2003 TITLE: Maintenance Required Indicator Doesn't Reset APPLIES TO: 2001-03 Civics, 2002-03 Civic Sis, 2003 Civic Hybrids, 2002-03 CR-Vs, and 2003 Elements. SERVICE TIP: Are customers complaining that they can't reset the maintenance required indicator (MAINT REQ'D) on the instrument panel? Find out if the headlights, parking lights, or both were turned on when they tried to reset it. The maintenance required indicator can't be reset if any of these lights are on. In fact, some aftermarket daytime running light devices designed to turn on the headlights, parking lights, or both as soon as you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), must be disabled before the indicator can be reset. Page 6945 Page 865 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 2396 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Service and Repair MAP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the screw (B). 3. Remove the MAP sensor (C). 4. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 3523 16. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 17. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 18. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Page 5663 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing a front airbag, side airbag, or other SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel, the front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, the seat belt buckle tensioners, and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors or the side airbag connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector A (1) from the SRS unit, disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3), the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (4), the driver's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (6), and the front passenger's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (7). - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B (8) from the SRS unit, disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (11, 12), and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (9, 10). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (2), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3). - Before disconnecting the floor wire harness 4P connector (5), disconnect both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (6, 7). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. Driver's Airbag Page 2464 106. TP Sensor Page 7375 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 6904 Wire Color Codes Page 6254 Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Side Impact Sensor Side Impact Sensor Replacement NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure in the Body section before doing repairs or service. Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the seat assembly. 4. Remove the door sill trim. 5. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor. 6. Remove the Torx bolt (A) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the side impact sensor (B). Installation 1. Install the new side impact sensor with the Torx bolt (A), then connect the floor wire harness 2P connector (B) to the side impact sensor. 2. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 3. After installing the side impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. 4. Install all removed parts. Page 8351 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 4198 10. Remove the O-ring (E) and clutch master cylinder seal (F) from the clutch master cylinder. 11. Install the clutch master cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. ^ Apply brake assembly lube to the clutch pipe, and install a new O-ring. ^ Tighten the master cylinder mounting nuts to 13 Nm (1.3 kgf-cm, 9.4 ft. lbs.). ^ Install the battery tray. ^ Install the air cleaner housing. ^ Connect the battery cables. ^ Do the idle learn procedure. ^ Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. ^ Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 12. Make sure the hose clamps (A) are positioned on the master cylinder (B) and reservoir (C) as shown. 13. To prevent the retaining clip (A) from coming off, pry apart the tip of the retaining clip (B) with a screwdriver. 14. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. NOTE: Reservoir filling is covered in the bleeding procedure. Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2050 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4037 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Connect the battery positive terminal to O/D switch/ shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 3, and connect the battery negative terminal to connector terminal No. 4. Do not connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal No. 4 or you will damage the diode inside the solenoid. 13. Check that the shift lever can be moved from the P position. Release the battery terminals, move the shift lever back to the P, and make sure it locks. 14. If the shift lock solenoid works properly, connect the connector, and install the removed parts. If the shift lock solenoid is faulty, go to step 15, and replace the shift lock solenoid. 15. Remove the shift lever assembly. Page 3286 3. Before connecting a new fuel tube/quick-connect fining assembly (A), remove the old retainer from the mating line. 4. Align the quick-connect fittings with the line (A), and align the retainer locking tabs (B) with the connector grooves (C). Then press the quick connect fittings onto the line until both retainer tabs lock with a clicking sound. NOTE: If it is hard to connect, put a small amount of new engine oil on the line end. 5. Make sure the connection is secure and that the tabs are firmly looked into place; check visually and by pulling the connector. 6. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). The fuel pump will run for about 2 seconds, and fuel pressure will rise. Repeat two or three times, and check that there is no leakage in the fuel supply system. Page 7474 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to four transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode. 3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted. 4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters. 5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Civic, 03-04 Accord, Element, Pilot 1999-00 Civic Value Package with factory-installed keyless entry system 1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system Page 7296 2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (B) from the cable reel. Front Passenger's Airbag 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from dashboard wire harness B. Side Airbag 4. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner Page 3485 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 7234 114. Right Side Of Tailgate Page 588 Door Switch: Testing and Inspection Rear Door Switch Test 1. Remove the rear door panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the rear door upper and rear door lower switch. 3. Check for continuity between the 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the rear door open. - There should be no continuity with the rear door closed. 4. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the faulty switch. Page 3137 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Description and Operation VTEC/VTC - The i-VTEC has a VTC (variable valve timing control) mechanism on the intake camshaft in addition to the usual VTEC. This mechanism improves fuel efficiency and reduces exhaust emissions at all levels of engine speed, vehicle speed, and engine load. - The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile. - The VTC changes the phase of the intake camshaft via oil pressure. It changes the intake valve timing continuously. VTC System - The VTC system makes continuous intake valve timing changes based on operating conditions. - Intake valve timing is optimized to allow the engine to produce maximum power. - Cam angle is advanced to obtain the EGR effect and reduce pumping loss. The intake valve is closed quickly to reduce the entry of the air/fuel mixture into the intake port and improve the charging effect. - The system reduces the cam advance at idle, stabilizes combustion, and reduces engine speed. - If a malfunction occurs, the VTC system control is disabled, and the valve timing is fixed at the fully retarded position. Page 911 24. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 25. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. 26. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 27. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 28. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 29. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 30. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 8478 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 2966 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire. Page 6110 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 1884 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Testing and Inspection VTEC Solenoid Valve Test VTEC Solenoid Valve Inspection 1. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve connector and the VTEC oil pressure switch connector. 2. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly from the cylinder head assembly. 3. Measure resistance between VTEC solenoid valve 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2. 4. If the resistance is within specification, check the solenoid valve filter (A) for clogging. If it is clogged, replace the solenoid valve filter, the engine oil filter, and the engine oil. Page 711 Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Oxygen Sensor Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the three way catalytic converter (TWC), and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output; the sensor has an internal heater. The ECM/PCM compares the HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is located on the TWC. Page 3062 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM/PCM. The TP sensor is not available separately from the throttle body. Page 463 Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement NOTE: Install the sensors carefully to avoid twisting the wires. Page 7057 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. Page 3741 NOTE: If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. From the iN workstation desktop, select CM Update (ECU Rewrite). 3. Click on the Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is set to GNA600. 4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then click on Storage Mode and follow the on-screen instructions. 5. Take the GNA600 to the vehicle. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's DLC. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the DLC cable from the vehicle. 7. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Connect the power supply unit and power supply cord to the GNA600. The GNA600 does a self-check and, after about 30 seconds, its yellow No.1 and green No.2 LEDs flash. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. NOTE: Update the systems one at a time. Page 5423 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 951 Locations Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations Page 1986 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 2768 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Knock Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the knock sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the knock sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 238 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (Part 2) Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Specifications Connecting Rod Bearing: Specifications Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New) ................................................................................................................................................ 0.020 0.050 mm (0.0008 - 0.0020 inch) Service Limit ................................................................................... ............................................................................................ 0.060 mm (0.0024 inch) Page 7383 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 5940 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Capacity Specifications Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications M/T Fluid Change ................................................................................................................................................ ............................................................. 2.0 Qt (1.9L) Total ................................................................. ................................................................................................................................................ 2.4 Qt (2.3L) Page 7849 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Engine Controls - DTC P0171 Set Absolute Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P0171 Set SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Got a DTC P0171? Check the Short-Term Fuel Trim APPLIES TO: 03-04 Accord 01-04 Civic 02-04 CR-V 03-04 Element 02-04 Odyssey 03-04 Pilot SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that purrs like a kitten but it sets a DTC P0171 (fuel system too lean)? Check the short-term fuel trim (ST FUEL TRIM B1). If the value reads higher than 1.05, then check the MAP SENSOR value with the engine turned off and the ignition switch turned to ON (II). - If the MAP SENSOR and BARO SENSOR values match, the MAP sensor is working OK. Do the normal troubleshooting for DTC P0171. - If the MAP SENSOR and BARO SENSOR values don't match, install a known-good MAP sensor, and retest. If the sensor values now match, clear the DTC, and make sure the ST FUEL TRIM B1 value is normal (it reads about 1.0). Page 96 Hazard Flasher Relay: Testing and Inspection Turn Signal/Hazard Relay Input Test 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the relay and fuse/relay box socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 3. 3. Make these input tests at the fuse/relay box. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Page 563 31. Back-up Light Switch (M/T) Diagrams 208. Stereo Amplifier (EX) Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 301 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair OPDS Unit Replacement OPDS Unit Replacement NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure in the Body section before doing repairs or service. Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the passenger's side airbag harness 2P connector. 3. Remove the front passenger's seat assembly and seat-back cover. 4. Remove the cover (A), then disconnect the OPDS unit harness 8P and sensor connectors (B) from the OPDS unit (C). 5. Remove the two screws (D) and the OPDS unit. Installation 1. Place the new OPDS unit (A) on the front passenger's seat-back frame. Tighten the two screws (B), and connect the OPDS unit harness 8P and sensor connectors (C) to the OPDS unit. Reinstall the cover (D). 2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then connect the side airbag harness 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 5. Set the seat-back in a normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the seat. 6. Initialize the OPDS unit. 7. After installing the OPDS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 5541 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 343 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 4792 Brake Pad: Specifications Brake pads Thickness Front Standard or New ................................................................................................................................................ 10.6 11.2 mm (0.42 - 0.44 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. .............................................................................. 1.6 mm (0.05 inch) Rear Standard or New .................................................................................................................................................... 8.6 9.7 mm (0.34 - 0.38 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................... ............................................................................ 1.0 mm (0.04 inch) Page 6787 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 2921 Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the ECM/PCM How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a digital multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and probe the terminals (B) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 4759 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 7284 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 36 Electronic Brake Control Module: Testing and Inspection ABS Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 47P Connector Page 6888 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 7567 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 3693 8. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark. 9. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600. 10. Disconnect the GNA600 from the USB PC interface cable, then connect the trigger switch adapter block (yellow) and the trigger switch to the GNA600 as shown below. (The DLC cable should still be connected to the GNA600.) 11. Reconnect the DLC cable to the vehicle's DLC. 12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA600 stays on. Press and release the trigger switch button. 13. The yellow No.1 LED blinks, and the green No.2 LED stays on. This indicates that the control uniti module is being updated. Locations Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 2676 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 5164 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 7523 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. Page 3593 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Page 8095 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2213 Exhaust Pipe: Service and Repair Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Replacement NOTE: Use new gaskets and self-locking nuts when reassembling. Testing and Inspection Windshield Washer Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test 1. Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. 2. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors B, F, G, J, X and Y. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 5. 5. Reconnect the connectors, and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 8549 Wire Color Codes Page 1111 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Component Locations Fuse Block: Component Locations 7. Left Side Of Engine Compartment 42. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 1839 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 4790 Template ID: 03-033A Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the front wheels. 2. *Remove the flange bolts (refer to page 19-13 of the 2002-04 CR-V Service Manual, or page 19-12 of the 2003-04 Element Service Manual).* 3. Pivot the caliper slightly so the pads do not come out of position, and hold the pads firmly on both sides with your fingers. Remove the pad springs from the pads. 4. Pivot the caliper up and out of the way. Remove the pads. Page 644 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 5087 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 6236 Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Service Precautions Steering-related Precautions Cable Reel Alignment - Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system and the horns inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever the following is performed. Installation of the steering wheel - Installation of the cable reel - Installation of the steering column - Other steering-related adjustment or installation - Do not disassemble the cable reel. - Do not apply grease to the cable reel. - If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, it does not rotate smoothly. Page 4894 4. Push in the lock (A) of the ABS control unit 47P connector (B), then connect the connector. 5. Connect the six brake lines. 6. Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels. 7. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator and brake system indicator go off. 8. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator and brake system indicator do not come on. Page 5921 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Diagrams 159. Air Mix Control Motor 162. Mode Control Motor Page 7209 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 1922 Idle Speed: Specifications Engine idle Idle speed without load M/T in neutral ....................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 700 ± 50 rpm A/T in N or P position ................................................. ........................................................................................................................... 700 ± 50 rpm Idle speed with high electric load (A/C switch ON, temperature set to Max Cool, blower fan on High, rear window defogger ON, and headlights on high beam) M/T in neutral ....................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 720 ± 50 rpm A/T in N or P position ................................................. ........................................................................................................................... 720 ± 50 rpm Page 5312 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8055 5. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connector (A) from the rear door wire harness. Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner 6. Disconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connector (A). SRS Unit 7. Disconnect SRS unit connector A, SRS unit connector B, or SRS unit connector C from the SRS unit. Page 4735 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3867 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Diagrams 25. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A 26. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B 27. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Page 8373 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 1012 Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the wiper/washer switch (B) 4. Remove the two screws, then pull out the wiper/washer switch. 5. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 7558 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. Page 5482 Relay Box: Diagrams 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 1050 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 1149 Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection Spark Plug Inspection 1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Plug heat range too hot - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Plug heat range too cold - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coils 2. Do not adjust the gap (A) of iridium tip plugs; replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Page 5130 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 3221 9. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 10. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 11. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Without the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Remove the glove box, then remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. NOTE: If any DTCs are stored, clear and ignore them. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel fill cap, and relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. 7. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Page 3442 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor (A). 2. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 8541 53. License Plate Light Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision 10-011 March 5, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks BACKGROUND The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not currently covered in the service manuals. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2003-10 Accord - ALL 2006-10 Civic - ALL 2007-10 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2007-10 CR-V - ALL 2003-10 Element - ALL 2009-10 Fit - ALL 2010 Insight - ALL 2005-10 Odyssey - ALL 2009-10 Pilot - ALL 2006-10 Ridgeline - ALL SYMPTOM 1 When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then reverses on its own. PROBABLE CAUSE The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty. NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to Symptom 2. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example, if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door. NOTE: Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row. These steps clear the control unit's memory. 4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Page 3315 Fuel Supply Line: Testing and Inspection Fuel Line Inspection Part 1 Page 2626 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 5181 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6975 5. Push the top of the retainer clip (A) with a flat-tip screwdriver (B), and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool (C), then remove the lock cylinder (D). 6. Remove the bolts, then remove the outer handle protector (A). 7. Release the hooks (A), then remove the outer handle (B). Take care not to scratch the door. 8. Install the outer handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure each rod is connected securely. - Make sure the door locks and opens properly. - When installing the lock cylinder, leave the outer door handle bolts loose so the inner protector does not interfere with the lock cylinder installation, then tighten the handle bolts. - Install the lock cylinder retaining clip on the handle, then install the lock cylinder. Be sure the clip is fully seated in the slot on the lock cylinder. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 2822 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Locations Page 1641 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 6112 Page 8267 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 8065 Door Switch: Testing and Inspection Rear Door Switch Test 1. Remove the rear door panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the rear door upper and rear door lower switch. 3. Check for continuity between the 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the rear door open. - There should be no continuity with the rear door closed. 4. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the faulty switch. Page 3086 106. TP Sensor Page 7455 Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter This transmitter is no longer available. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 97-99 EV Plus With Factory-Installed Security System 1997-99 EV Plus with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only through Tech Line. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 00-04 Insight With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 2000-04 Insight with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 5105 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 3283 - When connecting or disconnecting the fuel feed hose, fuel line, fuel vapor line, and quick-connect fittings, be careful not to bend or twist them excessively. Replace them if they are damaged. A disconnected quick-connect fitting can be reconnected, but the retainer on the mating line cannot be reused once it has been removed from the line. Replace the retainer when - replacing the fuel rail. - replacing the fuel line. - replacing the fuel pump. - replacing the fuel filter. - replacing the fuel gauge sending unit. - it has been removed from the line. - it is damaged. Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fittings Removal 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 3. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting. Hold the connector (A) with one, hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (B) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (C). Pull the connector off. Page 7228 2. Slightly loosen the striker bolts, and adjust the striker in or out to get the proper measurement. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 3. Check the tailgate for drag by holding in the release lever and opening and closing the tailgate. ^ If the tailgate does not drag, go to step 5. ^ If the tailgate drags, go to step 4. 4. The tailgate strikers will drop when loosened. Mark the original position before loosening the striker bolts. Slightly loosen the striker bolts, and adjust the strikers up and down to eliminate any drag. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 5. Check the adjustment of the hatch. The hatch edge should be even with or 1 mm below the fender. ^ If the adjustment is correct, go to step 7. ^ If the adjustment is not correct, go to step 6. 6. If the hatch sits out too far, screw the hatch edge cushions in two full turns. If it sits in too far, screw the hatch edge cushions out two full turns. 7. Check the hatch for latch drag by holding in the release lever and opening and closing the hatch door. ^ If the latch does not drag, the repair is complete. ^ If the latch drags, go to step 8. 8. Slightly loosen the center striker bolts. While holding in the release lever, open and close the hatch to align the striker. Adjust the striker as needed to eliminate any drag. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). Disclaimer Page 4773 4. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. 5. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks. 6. Install the pad retainers. 7. Apply Molykote M77 grease (P/N 08798-9010) to both sides of the pad shims (A), the back of the pads (B), and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake discs and pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads. 8. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the pads with the wear indicators (C) on the inside. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency. 9. Push in the piston (A) so that the caliper will fit over the pads. Check the brake fluid level. The brake fluid may overflow if the reservoir is too full. Make sure that the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when installing the caliper. 10. Apply Molykote M77 grease (P/N 08798-9010) to the piston edges (B) on their mating surfaces against the inner pad. 11. Install the brake caliper (C) and caliper bolts (D), and torque them to the specified torque while holding the pin (E). Be careful not to damage the pin boots. 12. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive. NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 13. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Disassembly and Reassembly Overhaul CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Specifications Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Removal 1. Remove the cam chain. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) actuator mounting bolt and exhaust camshaft sprocket mounting bolt. 3. If the VTC actuator will be reused, do the following steps. 1 Remove the intake camshaft, and seal the advance holes and retard holes in the No.1 camshaft journal with tape. 2 Punch a hole in the tape over one of the advance holes. 3 Apply air to the advance hole to release the lock. 4 Remove the tape from the No. 1 camshaft journal. 4. Remove the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket. Installation 1. Install the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket. NOTE: Install the VTC actuator in the unlocked position. 2. Apply engine oil to the threads of the VTC actuator mounting bolt and exhaust camshaft mounting bolt, then install them. 3. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then tighten the bolts. Specified torque VTC actuator mounting bolt: 113 Nm (11.5 kgf-m, 83 ft. lbs.) Exhaust camshaft sprocket mounting bolt: 72 Nm (7.3 kgf-m, 53 ft. lbs.) 4. Hold the camshaft, and turn the VTC actuator clockwise until you hear it click. 5. Install the cam chain. Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Remove the cover (A), then remove the set/resume/ cancel switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. - If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control actuator input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit. - If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch. Diagnostic Aids Fuse Block: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 2574 Valve Clearance: Adjustments Adjustment NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C). 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC). The punch mark (A) on the variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust camshaft sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket. 3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check. Intake: 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Exhaust: 0.28 - 0.32 mm (0.011 - 0.013 inch) Adjusting screw locations 4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem, and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag. Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Remove the cover (A), then remove the set/resume/ cancel switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. - If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control actuator input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit. - If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch. Page 518 45. Evaporator Temperature Sensor (EX; Canada: DX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 6658 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4364 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3RD Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the connector from the 3rd clutch pressure switch (A). 2. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 3. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. Page 6808 Trailer Connector: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 118-0 Page 7181 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 1120 ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 120. Right Side Of Engine Compartment Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Fuse: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 318 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Page 2882 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 7112 4. Install the hood latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Apply multipurpose grease to the location of the hood latch indicated by the arrows. - Make sure the hood opener cable is connected properly. - Make sure the cable actuates the latch before you close the hood. - Adjust the hood latch alignment. - Make sure the hood opens properly and locks securely. Page 6646 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8590 Wire Color Codes Page 2205 Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Catalytic Converter - Rotten Egg Smell SOURCE: Honda Service News July 2003 TITLE: Rotten Egg Smell? Could Be the Catalytic Converter APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Are customers complaining of a rotten egg smell, but you can't find anything wrong with their vehicles to account for it [there's no DTC(s) set, no driveability problems reported, nothing damaged or broken]? Then it could well be coming from the catalytic converter. That smell is a release of built up hydrogen sulfide (H2S) from the reaction of organic sulfur compounds in the gasoline with the catalyst in the converter. Almost all gasoline contains some amount of organic sulfur compounds, and that amount varies by region. The more sulfur there is in the gasoline, the more H2S is built up and released by the catalytic converter, so the stronger the smell. In California, where low-sulfur gasoline is actually required by state law, sulfur smell complaints are few and far between. The folks at the Environmental Protection Agency have issued a requirement for the phasing-in of low-sulfur gasoline nationwide between 2004 and 2006. This low-sulfur gasoline should go a long way toward making complaints of rotten egg smell a thing of the past. Page 3594 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 4512 Lightly push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. Do not open or close the doors until the adhesive is dry. 23. Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the windshield, wipe with a soft shop towel dampened with alcohol. 24. Let the adhesive dry for at least 1 hour, then spray water over the windshield and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal with sealant: Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly. - Keep the windshield dry for the first hour after installation. 25. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. - Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads). Page 2009 Page 5335 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8017 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Diagrams 76. Test Tachometer Connector Page 2690 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (Part 1) Page 1724 7. Set the torque wrench (D) in the pulley bolt in the direction shown. 8. Align the indicator (E) on the tensioner base with center mark (F) on the tensioner arm by using the torque wrench, and measure the torque. If the torque value is out of specification, replace the auto-tensioner. NOTE: If the indicator exceeds the center mark, recheck the torque. Auto-tensioner spring torque: 32.5 - 39.7 N.m (3.31 - 4.05 kgf.m, 23.9 - 29.3 lbf.ft) Page 6226 207. SRS Unit Page 4293 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (c) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E) with a plastic hammer while drawing the knuckle outward, then remove the knuckle. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the knuckle. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - First install all the components and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values. Do not place the jack against the ball joint pin of the lower arm. - Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it. - Install a new lock pin on the castle nut after torquing. - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Replace the self-locking nuts, damper pinch bolts and nuts with new ones. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Wheel Bearing Replacement 1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. 2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. Page 4067 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 6582 Page 987 Power Windows Component Location Index Page 7597 Paint: Technical Service Bulletins Air Fresheners - Bad News For Paint Or Plastic SOURCE: Honda Service News November 2003 TITLE: Hanging Air Fresheners: Bad News for Paint or Plastic APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Never let hanging air fresheners come in contact with painted or plastic surfaces. The chemicals used in them can eat into paint or permanently mar the plastic. Most of these air fresheners actually state on their packages to avoid contact with any surface. Advise your customers to heed those words. Page 7996 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 2980 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 6801 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 5485 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Body/Frame - Universal Subframe Removal Adapter Subframe: Technical Service Bulletins Body/Frame - Universal Subframe Removal Adapter 05-066 November 24, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Universal Front Subframe Removal Adapter (Replaces 01-043, Civic Front Sub frame Removal Adapter, dated September 11, 2001) The universal front subframe removal adapter is a required tool. When properly fitted to a transmission jack and the vehicle's front subframe, the adapter provides a convenient way to remove the subframe. Front subframe removal is required for transmission or engine removal. NOTE: The adapter will only support the subframe it will not support the entire powertrain assembly. Refer to the WARNING label on the adapter. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2003-06 Accord - ALL 2005-06 Accord Hybrid - ALL 2001-06 Civic - ALL 2001-06 Civic GX - ALL 2003-06 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2002-06 Civic Si - ALL 2002-06 CRV - ALL 2003-06 Element - ALL ORDERING INFORMATION The universal front subframe removal adapter is TIN VSB02C000016. To order additional adapters, call the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. USING THE ADAPTER NOTE: The adapter is designed to be used with the transmission jack, (new model number NRI-72500D), available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. (The old model number LSL-W93714 can still be used.). The adapter also works with many commercially available transmission jacks. 1. Loosen the four bolts that hold the adapter's adjustable arms to its center plate. Page 1754 121. Right Side Of Engine Page 8082 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 734101 Flat Rate Time: 0.2 hour Failed Part: P/N 78100-SCV-A21ZA H/C 7387871 Defect Code: 039 Contention Code: B01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. Page 3061 106. TP Sensor Page 5308 Page 7389 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Page 8114 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 4389 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 3270 8. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). 11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Page 1276 Coolant: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, then turn off the ignition switch. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the touch. 2. Remove the radiator cap. 3. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant. 4. After the coolant has drained, tighten the radiator drain plug. 5. Remove, drain and reinstall the reverse tank. 6. Fill the reserve tank to the MAX mark (A) with Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001). 7. Pour Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. Page 3012 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 6668 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 7315 3. Using the appropriate tool from the KTC trim 4. On the front passenger's side: Remove the caps (A), and remove the screws, then remove the grab handle (B). 5. Remove the upper striker covers (A) from both side. 1. Pull the door opening seal (B) away as needed. 2. Pull out on the inside edge of the cover to release the clips. 3. Pull the cover to the rear to release it from the rear access panel upper striker (C). The hooks (D) on the cover must pass through the notches (E) in the door opening flange. Service and Repair Rear Door Panel: Service and Repair Rear Door Panel Removal/Installation Special Tools Required - KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 - Trim pad remover, Snap-on A 177A or equivalent, commercially available NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before performing repairs or service. 1. Using the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set, pry out on the upper portion of the cover (A) to release the upper hook (B), and pull up the cover to release the lower hooks (C), then remove the cover, and remove the screws securing the inner handle (D) 2. Pull out on the front edge of the inner handle (A), and pull the inner handle forward to release the hook (B). 3. Disconnect the inner handle cable (C), then remove the inner handle. 4. Pull out on the speaker cover (A) to detach the hooks (B) and clips (C), then remove the cover. 5. Remove the screws (D), then remove the speaker (E) (for some models), and disconnect its connector (F). 6. Remove the screw (G). Page 3244 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. Alignment Alignment: Specifications Alignment ATF Level Check Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair ATF Level Check ATF Level Check NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission. 1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60 - 90 seconds after turning the engine off. 3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A) from the transmission, and wipe it with a clean cloth. 4. Insert the dipstick back into the transmission. 5. Remove the dipstick (A), and check the fluid level. It should be at the upper mark (B). 6. If the level is below the upper mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, hose and line joints, and cooler lines. If a problem is found, fix it before filling the transmission. If the level is above the upper mark, drain the ATF to proper level. 7. Pour the recommended fluid amount into the dipstick hole to bring it to the upper mark. Always use Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality. Page 5128 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Service and Repair Tailgate Shock / Support: Service and Repair Tailgate Support Cable Replacement 1. Close the tailgate half-way, and hold it. 2. Remove the bolts from the body and tailgate, then remove the tailgate support cable (A). 3. Install the support cable in the reverse order of removal. Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Locations 99. Middle of Floor (Carpet Removed) Page 8283 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 8316 Courtesy Lamp: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 2941 144. Rear Accessory Power Socket And A/F Sensor Relays Page 5099 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3284 NOTE: - Be careful not to damage the line (D) or other parts. Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 4. Check the contact area (A) of the line (B) for dirt or damage. - If the surface is dirty, clean it. - If the surface is rusty or damaged, replace the fuel pump, fuel filter, or fuel feed line. 5. To prevent damage and keep foreign matter out, cover the disconnected connector and line ends with plastic bags (A). NOTE: The retainer cannot be reused once it has been removed from the line. Replace the retainer when replacing the fuel rail. - replacing the fuel feed line. - replacing the fuel pump. - replacing the fuel filter. - replacing the fuel gauge sending unit. - it has been removed from the line. - it is damaged. Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fittings Installation Page 8326 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3559 (A/T) Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 2587 50. IAT Sensor Locations Power Door Lock Switch: Locations Power Door Locks Component Location Index Page 2265 204. ECM/PCM Page 7804 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Locations Starter Relay: Locations Starting System Component Location Index Page 8107 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6792 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 2024 Page 2482 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire. Diagram Information and Instructions Courtesy Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 7714 5. Pull out the headrest guides (A) while pinching the end of the guides, and remove them. 6. Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover (A) all the way around, then release all of the clips (B). 7. Remove the seat-back cover. 8. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the hook, inside spring, and clips. - Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones using commercially available upholstery ring pliers (B). Seat Cushion Cover 1. Remove the rear seat. 2. Remove these items from the rear seat: - Seat-back - Seat support - Hinge lock - (Latch Child Seat Anchor) cover, both sides Page 142 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Component Locations Interior Lights Component Location Index Page 4369 Mainshaft Sensor: Service and Repair Mainshaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the mainshaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the mainshaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the mainshaft speed sensor, and install the mainshaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Page 4298 6. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. Remove the rear axle shaft (C) from vehicles with 4WD. 7. Remove the parking brake shoes. 8. Remove the parking brake cable (A) from the backing plate. NOTE: The parking brake cable must not be bent or distorted. This will lead to stiff operation and premature cable failure. 9. Remove the wheel sensor (A) from the knuckle (if equipped with ABS). Page 2575 5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct. 6. Tighten the locknut, and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. 7. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 8. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 9. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 10. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder. 11. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 12. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No.2 cylinder. 13. Install the cylinder head cover. Page 8694 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1048 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 2640 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 667 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair FTP Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the EVAP canister. 2. Remove the FTP sensor (A). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (B). Page 5586 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 6841 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 1357 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Service and Repair Trunk / Liftgate Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Hatch Weatherstrip Replacement 1. Remove the cargo floor lid and trim panel. 2. Have an assistant help you, remove the tailgate support cables from both sides, and hold the tailgate. Take care not to damage the exterior parts. 3. Remove the hatch weatherstrip (A) by pulling out on it. 4. Locate the painted alignment mark (B) on the hatch weatherstrip. Align the painted mark with the alignment tab in the center of the hatch opening, and install the hatch weatherstrip all the way around in the direction shown. Make sure there are no wrinkles in the weatherstrip. 5. Reinstall the removed parts in reverse order of removal. 6. Check for water leaks. Page 5081 Page 1588 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1. Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.). If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step 7. 7. Replace the VTC valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat a new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 2850 Oxygen Sensor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 990 Power Window Switch: Diagrams 143. Power Window Switch, Front Passenger's 182. Power Window Master Switch Page 7743 Doors - Component Location Index - Front Door Part 2 Page 1480 5. Lower the vehicle onto the stands. Page 7188 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. Page 5262 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 7071 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Component Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 4228 136. Under Left Side Of Dash (M/T) SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components Air-bags The SRS is a safety device which, when used with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and front passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including safing sensor and impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C), the front passenger's airbag (D), seat belt tensioners (1), seat belt buckle tensioners (J), and front impact sensors (K). Since the driver's and front passenger's airbags use the same sensors, both normally inflate at the same time. However, it is possible for only one airbag to inflate. This can occur when the severity of a collision is at the margin, or threshold, that determines whether or not the airbags will deploy. In such cases, the seat belt will provide sufficient protection, and the supplemental protection offered by the airbag would be minimal. Side Airbags The side airbags (E) are in each front seat-back. They help protect the upper torso of the driver or front seat passenger during a moderate to severe side impact. Side impact sensors (F) in each door sill and in the SRS unit detect such an impact and instantly inflate the driver's or the passenger's side airbag. Only one side airbag will deploy during a side impact. If the impact is on the passenger's side, the passenger's side airbag will deploy even if there is no passenger. Seat Belt and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners The seat belt and seat belt buckle tensioners are linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioners instantly retract the belt and buckle firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. OPDS The side airbag system also includes an occupant position detection system (OPDS). This system consists of sensors (G) and a OPDS unit (H) in the front passenger's seat-back. The OPDS unit sends occupant height and position data to the SRS unit. If the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger is of small stature (for example, a child) and the front passenger is leaning into the side airbag deployment path, the SRS unit will automatically disable the passenger's side airbag. The SRS unit will also disable the airbag when the OPDS detects certain objects on the seat. When the side airbag is disabled, the side airbag cutoff indicator on the instrument panel alerts the driver that the passenger's side airbag will not deploy in a side impact. When the object is removed, or the passenger sits upright, the side airbag cutoff indicator will go off after a few seconds, alerting the driver that the passenger's side airbag will deploy in a side impact. Page 7529 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Capacity Specifications Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications Engine oil For engine overhaul ............................................................................................................................. .............................................................. 5.3L (5.6 Qt) For oil change, including filter .............................................................................................................. ............................................................ 4.2L (4.4 Qt) For oil change, without filter ................................................................................................................. ............................................................ 4.0L (4.2 Qt) Page 8387 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8377 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 216 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 4837 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 33. Brake Fluid Level Switch 33. Brake Fluid Level Switch Page 8555 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 5962 32. Blower Motor Page 6586 This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit. 1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one. 2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip. 3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to lock the chip in place. 4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter. 5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters. 6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat. 7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure as in steps 2 and 3.) 8. Press the reset button next to the ROM chip. 9. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit. If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is 5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from American Honda. If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at (800) 421-2284, extension 8885. Batteries for the Transmitter Page 6568 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Page 941 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Page 8612 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 4885 NOTICE: ^ Be careful not to damage the booster surfaces and threads of the booster stud bolts. ^ Be careful not to bend or damage the brake lines. 7. Install the brake booster in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: ^ Adjust the pushrod clearance before installing the brake booster. ^ Use a new clip whenever installing. ^ After installing the brake booster and master cylinder, fill the reservoir with new brake fluid, bleed the brake system, and adjust the brake pedal height and free play. Locations Clutch Switch: Locations Starting System Component Location Index Page 5391 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 1371 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 6269 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Page 2760 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3152 82. Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid (VTEC Solenoid Valve) Page 4127 Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Page 6153 Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 4111 Shift Cable: Service and Repair Shift Cable Replacement 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, or lift the vehicle up, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the center lower cover. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 2954 23. Left Side Of Engine Page 6332 Side Air Bag: Service and Repair Removal and Installation Side Airbag Replacement NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure in the Body section before doing repairs or service. Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the side airbag harness 2P connector (A). 3. Remove the seat assembly and seat-back cover. 4. Remove the mounting nut (A) and the side airbag (B). Installation NOTE: - If the side airbag lid is secured by a tape, remove the tape. - Do not open the lid of the side airbag cover. - Use new mounting nuts tightened to the specified torque. - Make sure that the seat-back cover is installed properly. Improper installation may prevent proper deployment. - Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfering with other parts. Page 2564 Spark Plug: Application and ID Spark Plug Type NGK ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. IZFR6K-11 DENSO ................................................................................................................................................ ....................................................... SKJ20DR-M11 Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 13 ft lb (18 Nm) Gap ..................................................................... ................................................................................................................ 0.039-0.043 inch (1.0-1.1 mm) Page 8337 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Service and Repair Front Door Latch: Service and Repair Front Door Latch Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover, as necessary 2. Raise the glass fully. 3. Remove the center lower channel. 4. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. 5. To ease reassembly, note the distance (A) of the lock rod (B) on the lock knob (C) before disconnecting it. 6. Remove the latch (A). Take care not to bend the outer handle rod (B), cylinder rod (C), lock rod (D), and inner handle rod (E). 1. Remove the clip (F). 2. Release the inner handle rod from the rod holder (G). 3. Disconnect the connectors (H). 4. Remove the screws (I). Page 8550 Page 5637 3. Hold the steering pump (A) in a vise with soft jaws (B), hold the pulley (C) with the special tool (D), and remove the pulley nut (E) and pulley. Be careful not to damage the pump housing with the jaws of the vise. 4. Remove the inlet joint and O-ring. 5. Remove the pressure control valve cap, O-ring, valve spring, and pressure control valve. 6. Remove the pump housing cap, O-ring, and pump preload spring. 7. Remove the pump cover and pump cover seals. 8. Pull out the roll pin. 9. Remove the outer case, cam ring, rotor, vanes, and side plate. 10. Remove the rubber seal and slipper seal from the outer case. 11. Remove the O-rings from the bottom of the housing. 12. Remove the 40 mm internal snap ring, then remove the drive shaft by tapping the shaft end with the plastic hammer. 13. Remove the seal from the pump housing. Inspection 14. Check the pressure control valve for wear, burrs, and other damage to the edges of the grooves in the valve. 15. Inspect the bore of the pressure control valve on the pump housing for scratches and wear. 16. Slip the pressure control valve back in the pump housing, and check that it moves in and out smoothly. If OK, go to step 17; if not, replace the pump as an assembly. The pressure control valve is not available separately. Page 7482 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Odyssey EX 1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *2001-04 Odyssey EX models with factory- installed security system* *Transmitter Identification Page 2338 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor B Replacement CMP Sensor B Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve. 3. Disconnect the CMP sensor B connector (A). 4. Remove CMP sensor B (B). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 2353 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 6282 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 3092 Page 6580 Page 122 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 3737 9. Wait for the MVCI to copy the data for updating the vehicle. 10. After the MVCI has copied the files, a confirmation screen appears. Press ENTER to update the control unit/module, or press ESC to exit. 11. Wait for the MVCI to update the control unit/module. 12. After the MVCI finishes updating the control uniti module, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) when directed by the MVCI. 13. Turn the ignition switch back to ON (II) within 60 seconds to complete the updating procedure. NOTE: The MVCI has a countdown timer. If you do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II) within 60 seconds, the MVCI sets an error code. Page 6889 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1068 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 5763 7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B). 8. Install the splash guard (c), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque. 9. Press a wheel bearing (A) onto the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. Page 1268 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 1649 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Description and Operation VTEC/VTC - The i-VTEC has a VTC (variable valve timing control) mechanism on the intake camshaft in addition to the usual VTEC. This mechanism improves fuel efficiency and reduces exhaust emissions at all levels of engine speed, vehicle speed, and engine load. - The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile. - The VTC changes the phase of the intake camshaft via oil pressure. It changes the intake valve timing continuously. VTC System - The VTC system makes continuous intake valve timing changes based on operating conditions. - Intake valve timing is optimized to allow the engine to produce maximum power. - Cam angle is advanced to obtain the EGR effect and reduce pumping loss. The intake valve is closed quickly to reduce the entry of the air/fuel mixture into the intake port and improve the charging effect. - The system reduces the cam advance at idle, stabilizes combustion, and reduces engine speed. - If a malfunction occurs, the VTC system control is disabled, and the valve timing is fixed at the fully retarded position. Page 4211 VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the master cylinder, and apply a thin film of silicone grease to the clutch line fitting. REQUIRED MATERIALS Silicone Grease: P/N 08C30-B0234M, H/C 6110928 Brake Fluid: P/N 08798-9008, H/C 4423802 PARTS INFORMATION Civic/Civic Hybrid Master Cylinder: P/N 46920-S5A-G04, H/C 7569452 Accord/Civic Si/CR-V/Element Master Cylinder: P/N 46920-57A-A02, H/C 7604507 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 211101 Flat Rate Time: 0.6 hour (All Civics) 0.8 hour (Accord/CR-V/Element) Failed Part: Civic/Civic Hybrid: P/N 46920-55A-G01 H/C 6571103 Accord/Civic Si/CR-V/Element: P/N 46920-S7A-A01 H/C 6729031 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 04201 Capacity Specifications Power Steering Fluid: Capacity Specifications Power steering fluid Fluid change ........................................................................................................................................ ............................................... 0.27 L (0.28 US qt.) System overhaul ................................................. ................................................................................................................................ 0.83 L (0.87 US qt.) Page 4618 24. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 25. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. 26. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 27. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 28. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 29. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 30. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 8280 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 4938 Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Locations Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations Gauges Component Location Index 30. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 1551 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 1923 Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Control System When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the ECM/PCM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve to maintain the correct idle speed. Refer to the System Diagram to see the functional layout of the system. Idle Control System Diagram The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve: - After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain amount of time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed. - When the engine coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation to engine coolant temperature. Page 2649 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: Recalls Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 1259 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 5456 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 337 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 2748 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6321 Page 146 Diagram 115-1 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Wiring Diagrams Page 5594 - If adjustment is required, go to step 3. 3. Hold the adjusting bolt (A) on the rear trailing arm, and loosen the self-locking nut (B). NOTICE: Do not loosen the special bolts (c) on the trailing arm. 4. Adjust the rear toe by turning the adjusting bolt until the toe is correct. 5. Tighten the self-locking nut while holding the adjusting bolt. Turning Angle Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Turn the wheel right and left while applying the brake, and measure the turning angle of both wheels. 2. If the turning angle is not within the specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC's 3-1 or 4-1 Set Wiring Harness: Customer Interest Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC's 3-1 or 4-1 Set 08-008 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2003-06 Element - ALL SRS Indicator Comes On With SRS DTC 3-1 or 4-1 SYMPTOM The SRS indicator comes on, and SRS DTC 3-1 (open or increased resistance in driver's seat belt tensioner) or SRS DTC 4-1 (open or increased resistance in front passenger's seat belt tensioner) is stored. PROBABLE CAUSE There is resistance in connector C771 (for DTC 3-1) or C761 (for DTC 4-1). The connectors are located between the rear door wire harness and the rear door subharness (C771 on the driver's side, C761 on the passenger's side). CORRECTIVE ACTION Do the diagnosis then, if needed, replace the faulty rear door harness and subharness with an updated one-piece harness. The updated harness does not have connectors C771 or C761. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. Page 8503 148. Ignition Key Switch/Key Light Page 395 166. Rear Window Wiper Intermittent Control Unit Page 2502 9. Knock Sensor Page 1070 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 8218 8. Remove the locknut (A) and the fuel pump sending assembly. 9. Remove the fuel filter (B), the fuel gauge sending unit (C), the case (D), the wire harness (E), and the fuel pressure regulator (F). 10. When connecting the fuel pump assembly, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (H). 11. Check these items before installing the fuel tank unit. - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (I) are firmly locked into place. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. 12. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (J) and new O-rings (K). When installing the fuel tank unit, align the marks (L) on the unit (M) and the fuel tank (N). Page 942 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 7598 Paint: Service Precautions Paint Safety Precautions WARNING: Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the container. The following precautions are important items in order to maintain a safe painting work area. - Wear an approved respirator and eye protection when painting. - Wear approved gloves and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin. - Spray paint only in a well ventilated area. - Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at once. - If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse and wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in your eyes, flush with water and get prompt medical attention. - After the painting work is finished, wash your face and gargle with water. - Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames, or cigarettes. Page 3054 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Testing and Inspection PSP Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP SWITCH the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it indicate OFF? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 12. 4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - The PSP switch signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 7. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 11. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM (E16) and the PSP switch. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the PSP switch 2Pconnector. Page 1471 40. Remove the glove box, and remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 41. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E9 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse and the ECM/PCM (E9), or between the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Go to step 42. 42. Remove the center console, both track floor covers, and both door sill trims. 43. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. 44. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 45. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the fuel pump and PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Go to step 46. Page 4924 Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Replacement NOTE: Install the sensors carefully to avoid twisting the wires. Page 5082 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 6850 Diagram 118-1 Page 3251 Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Control System When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the ECM/PCM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve to maintain the correct idle speed. Refer to the System Diagram to see the functional layout of the system. Idle Control System Diagram The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve: - After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain amount of time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed. - When the engine coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation to engine coolant temperature. Page 1414 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 6847 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 2363 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 2147 Disclaimer Page 6207 Air Bag: Diagrams 63. Side Airbag Inflator, Driver's (EX: Side Airbag) 64. Side Airbag Inflator, Front Passenger's (EX: Side Airbag) 114. Airbag First And Second Inflators, Driver's Page 8016 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Locations Starter Motor: Locations Starting System Component Location Index 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Page 2692 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) Page 259 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Updating the ECM/PCM ECM/PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not already have the latest software loaded. NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the ECM/PCM can be damaged. How to Update the ECM/PCM NOTE: - To ensure the latest program is installed, do an ECM/PCM update whenever the ECM/PCM is substituted or replaced. - You can not update an ECM/PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. - Before you update the ECM/PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. - To prevent ECM/PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power windows, door locks, etc.) during the update. - If you need to diagnose the Honda Interface Module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent ECM/PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS or Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of dashboard. 3. Do the ECM/PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label and in the ECM/PCM update system. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure, if you did the trouble shooting for DTC P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0335, or P0339. How to Substitute the ECM/PCM 1. Remove the ECM/PCM from the vehicle. 2. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the vehicle. 3. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure from the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS; It allows you to start the engine. 4. After completing your tests, reinstall the original ECM/PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure on the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Page 8036 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 107 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 7357 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing Control Module: Service and Repair PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the PCM only if the PCM does not have the latest software loaded. Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the PCM can be damaged. Page 6990 Front Door Striker: Service and Repair Front Door Lower Hook and Lower Catch Replacement Front Door Lower Hook and Lower Catch Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the bolts, then remove the lower hook (A). 2. Remove the door sill trim. 3. Remove the bolts, then remove the lower catch (A). 4. Install the lower hook and lower catch in the reverse order of removal, and apply touch-up paint to the lower hook mounting bolts and around the lower hook. Page 2856 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Testing and Inspection PSP Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP SWITCH the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it indicate OFF? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 12. 4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - The PSP switch signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 7. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 11. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM (E16) and the PSP switch. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the PSP switch 2Pconnector. Page 8087 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 333 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 7443 The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Accord, Civic, Del SOL, Prelude & 95 Odyssey 1994-95 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Prelude with dealer-installed security system 1995 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode. 3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted. 4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash after each transmitter code is accepted. 5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 96-98 Civic EX & Except EX, Civic 1996-98 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic with dealer-installed security system Page 6655 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 5535 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 1640 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 1419 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2607 91. CKP Sensor Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 7728 12. Remove and discard the three nuts. Remove and retain the washers from the inboard front link and the seat track. Remove and discard the three bushings. Remove and discard the spacers between the seat and the seat track. 13. Add the three new spacers to the rear mounting stud. 14. Install the three new bushings and the inboard front link. *15. Use brake cleaner to remove grease from any threads before installing nuts.* Install the original washers and new nuts. Torque the nuts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 16. Reinstall the seat belt buckle. Torque the center anchor bolt to 32 N.m (24 lb-ft). 17. Reinstall the center cover and the recline cover. 18. Reinstall the height knob and the recline handle. 19. Reinstall the driver's seat: ^ Torque the mounting bolts to 34 N.m (25 lb-ft). ^ Make sure each connector is properly plugged in. Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 2235 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 3481 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 4559 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Connect the battery positive terminal to O/D switch/ shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 3, and connect the battery negative terminal to connector terminal No. 4. Do not connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal No. 4 or you will damage the diode inside the solenoid. 13. Check that the shift lever can be moved from the P position. Release the battery terminals, move the shift lever back to the P, and make sure it locks. 14. If the shift lock solenoid works properly, connect the connector, and install the removed parts. If the shift lock solenoid is faulty, go to step 15, and replace the shift lock solenoid. 15. Remove the shift lever assembly. Page 6082 Page 433 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Latch Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hatch latch switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the hatch latch switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the hatch open. - There should be no continuity with the hatch closed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 6674 Cellular Phone: Connector Views 223. Hands-Free Telephone Control Unit ('03-'04 Honda Accessory) 224. Hands-Free Telephone Diode ('03-'04 Honda Accessory) 225. Hands-Free Telephone Short CP Connector ('03-'04 Honda Accessory) Page 5946 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 2992 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 5467 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3269 9. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 10. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 11. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Without the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Remove the glove box, then remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. NOTE: If any DTCs are stored, clear and ignore them. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel fill cap, and relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. 7. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Page 2310 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 2217 Exhaust Resonator: Service and Repair Resonator Removal/Installation 1. Remove the ground cable (A), and the bolts (B). 2. Remove the resonator (C). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 8344 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 3914 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Check for continuity between O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 while pushing the O/D switch toggle. The O/D switch terminals continuity is toggled by pushing the O/D switch ON and OFF. 13. If the O/D switch works properly, connect the connector and install the removed parts. If the switch is faulty, go to step 14, and replace the switch. 14. Remove the shift lever assembly. 15. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 16. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 17. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Page 7257 Subframe: Service and Repair Subframe Replacement Front Subframe Torque NOTE: After loosening the subframe mounting bolts, be sure to replace them with new ones. Page 147 Diagram 115-0 Page 8381 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor The A/F Sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F Sensor is installed upstream of the TWC, and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. Page 1005 83. Washer Fluid Level Switch (Canada) Locations Clutch Switch: Locations Starting System Component Location Index Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 4519 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Component Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 2191 11. Push the lock (A) down, then push the quick connector (B) onto the thermostat cover until you hear it click. 12. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Page 241 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) (Part 2) ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Page 3017 103. MAP Sensor Page 653 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 3076 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly 2. Remove the cover (A). 3. Remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (B). 4. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Locations Blower Motor Relay: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6600 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Passport (Except 1995-1/2) 1994-95 Passport (except 19951A) with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be accepted. Page 5653 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Service and Repair Power Steering Hoses, Lines, and Pressure Switch Replacement Note these items during installation: ^ Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from the hose end as shown. ^ Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new ones if necessary. ^ Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the reservoir and check for leaks. Locations Blower Motor Relay: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 2859 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Service and Repair Power Steering Hoses, Lines, and Pressure Switch Replacement Note these items during installation: ^ Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from the hose end as shown. ^ Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new ones if necessary. ^ Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the reservoir and check for leaks. Page 3492 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Knock Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the knock sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the knock sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Locations Neutral Safety Switch: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 5795 Subframe: Service and Repair Subframe Replacement Front Subframe Torque NOTE: After loosening the subframe mounting bolts, be sure to replace them with new ones. Page 230 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel Pressure ............................................................................................................................................... 330 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 - 55 psi) Page 2498 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Locations Wipers / Washers Component Location Index Page 1318 3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule: (a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed. (b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port using the quick coupler. (c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap, and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting. NOTE: The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the capsule. (d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight). NOTE: The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out. 4. Connect the NC service equipment: With the universal connect set and dye capsule attached to the vehicle's low-side service port, connect the A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's low-side hose quick coupler to the service valve fitting. Open the blue hand-wheel valves on both quick couplers. Leave the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set closed. NOTE: * ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.* ^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding. ^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being added to the vehicle's A/C system. 5. Inspect the A/C system for leaks: (a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible during this time to keep the dye circulating. (b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit. Page 1420 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8006 Page 3689 14. After finishing the updating procedure, the MVCI gives you the option of updating the same system on another vehicle. For more information on updating several vehicles, see the MVCI User Guide. 15. If an error occurs during the updating procedure, an error message appears. Keep the ignition switch in ON (II). Press ENTER to display the error code. Refer to the CM Update Error Code Table in the MVCI User Guide for more information about the code and its solutions.* UPDATING WITH THE GNA600 NOTE: For more information on the GNA6OO, refer to the GNA600 User's Guide. This guide is on ISIS, under the Tool Information heading. Two modes of updating can be used with the GNA600: Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Use Pass-Thru mode when the GNA6OO can be connected to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. Use Storage mode when the GNA6OO cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. GNA600 Updating in Pass-Thru Mode 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication Installation Instructions for HDS PC Software on ISIS. Page 420 Power Mirror Switch: Testing and Inspection Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector from the power mirror switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the switch. Page 1019 Wiper Switch: Service and Repair Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the wiper/washer switch (B) 4. Remove the two screws, then pull out the wiper/washer switch. 5. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 7179 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information Seat Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information Use a Steamer to Smooth Out Fabric Upholstery A garment steamer and a stiff-bristle brush make a great team for removing those nasty wrinkles, lines, or impressions in fabric upholstery. You can buy an inexpensive, small, hand-held garment/ fabric steamer from a number of different manufacturers. Some of these units even come with a handy built-in brush. Once you've got your steamer, follow the manufacturer's instructions to get it ready for use. Then apply a generous amount of steam to the problem area. Keep the steamer moving slowly over the area until it's hot and moist. A Word of Caution: Go easy on the steam if you're cleaning the front passenger seat in a vehicle with side airbags. Moisture can adversely affect or damage the OPDS sensors in the seatback. While the area is hot and moist, use a stiff-bristle brush, or the built-in brush if your steamer has one, to work the fabric back and forth and up and down. Stubborn areas might need more steam and brushing, so be patient and stay with it. It's worth the effort. Locations Air Bag Control Module: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 6406 - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. After you reconnect the battery: - Do the engine idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the radio anti-theft code, enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Page 440 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Test Check for continuity between the terminals (A) with the float in the down position and the up position. ^ Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be continuity. ^ Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to MAX (upper) level (B). With the float up, there should be no continuity. Page 1773 5. Remove the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister hose (A) and brake booster vacuum hose (B). 6. Remove the engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from the intake manifold. - Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector - Throttle position sensor connector - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor connector 7. Remove the bolt (A) securing the harness holder, and remove the two bolts (B) securing the throttle cable bracket. 8. Remove and plug the water bypass hoses. 9. Remove the harness clamp (A), and the harness connector (B) from the intake manifold bracket, then remove the intake manifold bracket (C). Page 6960 Rear Bumper: Service and Repair Rear Bumper Trim Replacement Rear Bumper Trim Replacement 1. Remove the rear bum per. 2. Remove the clips (A), and release the hooks (B), then remove the rear bumper trim (C) from the rear bumper (D) by pulling it out. Take care not to scratch the rear bumper. 3. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the hook portions into place securely. Page 4068 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Locations Page 5743 ^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. ^ Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. 18. Test-drive the vehicle over bumps to make sure the noise is gone. Disclaimer Page 6265 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 626 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor A Replacement CMP Sensor A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor A connector (A). 3. Remove the bolt (B). 4. Remove CMP sensor A (C). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 4726 Brake Pedal Assy: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Remove the clip (A) and sin (B). 2. Remove the brake pedal brakes mounting bolt (C) and brake booster mounting nuts (D). 3. Disconnect the brake pedal position switch connector (E). 4. Remove the brake pedal with bracket (F). 5. Install in the reverse order of removal. 6. Perform the brake pedal and brake pedal position switch adjustment. Page 6623 1997 Accord SE With Factory-Installed Security System 1997 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Accord EX & 00-02 Accord SE 1998-02 Accord EX with factory-installed security system 2000 and 2002 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Page 5822 Page 6285 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index How To Replace Connector Terminals Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How To Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 3198 Evaporative Shut Valve: Description and Operation EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve The EVAP canister vent shut valve is on the EVAP canister. The EVAP canister vent shut valve controls the venting of the EVAP canister. Page 272 144. Rear Accessory Power Socket And A/F Sensor Relays Page 7387 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Page 2687 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Color Chart Paint Specifications Testing and Inspection Radiator Cap: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the radiator cap (A), wet its seal with engine coolant, then install it on the pressure tester (B) (commercially available). 2. Apply a pressure of 93 - 123 kPa (0.95 - 1.25 kgf/cm2, 14 18 psi). 3. Check for a drop in pressure. 4. If the pressure drops, replace the cap. Page 8544 License Plate Lamp: Service and Repair License Plate Light Replacement 1. Remove the license plate light (A) from the tailgate lower cladding. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (B) from the light. 3. Take the lens (C) off, then remove the bulb (D). 4. Install the light in the reverse order of removal. Page 8362 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 280 Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 1772 2. Remove the vacuum hose (B) and breather pipe (C), then remove the intake air duct (D). 3. Remove the intake manifold cover. 4. Remove the throttle cable (A) and cruise control cable (B) by loosening the locknuts (C), then slipping the cable ends out of the accelerator linkage. Take care not to bend the cables when removing them. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one. Page 2315 142. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 & 2 Page 993 5. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the three screws and replace the switch (A). Page 6725 NOTE: It is very important that you fill out this form fully and accurately. An accurate explanation of the problem and conditions helps the manufacturer to duplicate the problem, speeding the repair, and reducing the number of No Trouble Found" (NTF) units. Disclaimer Page 7775 Page 1554 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 468 Page 1200 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Body - Liftgate Rattles/Hatch Open Indicator On Trunk / Liftgate Striker: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Liftgate Rattles/Hatch Open Indicator On 04-022 March 8, 2008 Applies To: 2003-08 Element - ALL Hatch Open Indicator On, Rear Interior Light On, or Tailgate Rattles (Supersedes 04-022, dated April 13, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks) SYMPTOM The rear hatch open indicator or rear interior light comes on and/or the tailgate rattles. PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect striker position and/or improperly adjusted cushions. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check the striker and cushion adjustments. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 823380 Flat Rate Time: 0.2 hour Failed Part: P/N 74813-SCV-A01 H/C 7286032 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03228 Template ID: 04-022A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. With the hatch open, compare the level of the tailgate to the level of the taillights. The tailgate edge should be recessed 1 to 2 mm in relation to the taillight. ^ If the measurement is correct, go to step 3. ^ If the measurement is not correct, go to step 2. Page 5004 Engine Electrical - Special Tools Page 6179 45. Evaporator Temperature Sensor (EX; Canada: DX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 2603 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor B Replacement CMP Sensor B Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve. 3. Disconnect the CMP sensor B connector (A). 4. Remove CMP sensor B (B). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 5702 58. Coat the sliding surface of the special tool (A) and new cylinder end seal (B) with power steering fluid. Place the seal on the special tool with its grooved side (C) facing opposite the special tool. 59. Apply a thin coat of power steering grease to the inside of the special tool. 60. Install the cylinder end seal (A) onto the steering rack (B) with its grooved side (C) toward the piston (D). Make sure the gap in the special tool is opposite of rack teeth. 61. Separate the cylinder end seal from the special tool, then remove the special tool. A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection 07-030 October 12, 2007 Applies To: ALL Vehicles With Conventional A/C Compressors A/C Leak Detection (Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks) The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find. When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up with the OPTIMAX Jr. This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector. The kit contains: ^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3 standard AA batteries) ^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels ^ TRP3887, R-134a Universal Connect Set(TM) ^ TRP120884, GLO-AWAY(TM) dye cleaner ^ TRP9940, fluorescence-enhancing glasses ^ TRP1143, (1) empty Tracer-Stick dye capsule ORDERING INFO *One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program, Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.* NOTICE ^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body. ^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure. ^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure. USING THE OPTIMAX JR. Page 5302 Accessory Power Sockets Component Location Index Page 5413 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 7787 - Check the damper housing position, and check for damage. - If necessary, remove the wheelhouse upper member, and replace the front damper extension, damper housing, and damper housing extension as an assembly. Installation 1. Set the new damper housing assembly, front wheelhouse, and front bulkhead into position, and measure the front compartment diagonally.Check the body dimensions, engine compartment, engine/transmission mount positions , engine compartment and front floor under view. 2. Tack weld the new parts into position. 3. Temporarily install the front subframe, and check the front side frame position. 4. Temporarily install the hood, front fender,headlight, and front bumper, and check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body lines flow smoothly. Page 3155 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1. Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.). If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step 7. 7. Replace the VTC valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat a new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 4110 16. Install the shift cable insulator (A) along the slot (B) over the shift cable (C), and position the shift cable in the left end (D) of the slot. 17. Push the insulator down so that it covers the shift cable grommet (E). 18. Allow the wheels to rotate freely. 19. Start the engine, and move the shift lever to each position. Verify that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch, and check the shift lever operation in all gear. 20. Install the center lower cover. Page 2343 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire. Front Seat Belt Buckles Seat Belt Buckle: Service and Repair Front Seat Belt Buckles Front Seat Belt Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. NOTE: Check the front seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to damage them during removal and installation. Seat Belt Buckle 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Remove the front seat. 4. From under the seat, detach the seat belt switch connector clip (A) and seat belt buckle tensioner connector clip (B). On the driver's seat, detach the harness clip (C). 5. Remove the center cover from the seat; driver's seat, passenger's seat. 6. Detach the harness clip (A), and pull the seat belt switch/tensioner harness (B) out through the space between the seat cushion and the seat linkage (driver's seat), or the hole on the seat track (passenger's seat). 7. Remove the center anchor bolt (C), and remove the seat belt buckle (D). 8. Install the seat belt buckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: Page 484 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pedal Position Switch Test 1. Disconnect the 2P connector from the clutch pedal position switch (A). 2. Remove the clutch pedal position switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. - If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch pedal position switch. - If OK, install the clutch pedal position switch and adjust the pedal height. Page 2598 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B CMP sensor B detects the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. Page 3133 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6770 - Shift the transmission in Neutral. Automatic Transmission - Release the parking brake. - Start the engine. - Shift to FD position, then N position. - Turn off the engine. It is best to tow the vehicle no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55 km/h). NOTE : - Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), the vehicle must be transported on a flat-bed. - Trying to lift or tow the vehicle by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the vehicle's weight. Page 1870 7. Replace the VTC oil control solenoid valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat the new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 4160 2. Do not use a magnet to remove the check balls, it may magnetize the balls. 3. Inspect the valve body for scoring and damage. 4. Check all valves for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, refer to valve body repair. 5. Coat all parts with ATF during assembly. ATF Pump Inspection Page 6702 ^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment. ^ REL/BOR - Your order has been picked, packed, and shipped. ^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account. CORE RETURN INFORMATION Service Technician: 1. If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, or cassette tape) is stuck inside the faulty unit, fill out a Customer Media Return Label (reorder number Y0325), and attach it to the unit. The manufacturer will remove the media, and mail it back to your dealership. 2. Use the pre paid shipping label. Each audio supplier provides a prepaid shipping label with the remanufactured audio unit. Return the core using this label to ensure it is received at the appropriate location for credit. Use the pre paid shipping labels to return audio cores to authorized locations only; do not use them for any other purpose. If you need additional prepaid shipping labels, contact Remanufactured Parts Operations. ^ Complete the shipping label with your dealership information. ^ Pack one audio unit per box, and use a separate shipping label for each one. ^ On the line requesting Your Internal Reference Information, enter YOUR DEALER NUMBER and the WARRANTY CLAIM NUMBER. 3. On the repair order, write down the warranty claim number, the original part number, the serial numbers from both the faulty and remanufactured units, and the return tracking number. 4. Ship the faulty unit in the same box the remanufactured unit came in. Make sure you include this required paperwork: ^ A copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement from the iN. ^ A copy of the warranty audio order. NOTE: When the Remanufacturing Center gets the faulty unit, your warranty audio order will be updated to indicate that the core was received. If the core is received 31-60 days from the order date, and you have been debited a core loss charge, your dealership will be credited back, less a $250 late fee. OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, AND RES UNITS PRODUCED IN 1998 OR LATER) NOTE: If you are making a repair or exchange because of a service bulletin or service campaign, do not use OUT-OF-WARRANTY procedures. Refer to IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE for more information. Service Advisor: 1. Give your customer an estimate for repairing the unit (see step 6), plus the labor cost to replace it. For an Alpine unit, your customer has the option of contacting Alpine Electronics directly. Alpine's customer service number is 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304. Service Technician: 2. Remove the failed unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or, Page 7715 3. From under the seat cushion, release the hooks (A), and pull back the seat cushion cover (B). 4. Release the hooks (A) from the seat cushion frame. 5. Remove the hook (A) from the hook strap (B), and pull the hook strap out through the slit in the seat cushion cover. If necessary, remove the bolt (C), then remove the hook strap. 6. Remove the screw (D), and pull the strap (E) out. Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Pump Pressure Test With T/N 07406-001000A Power Steering Pump: Testing and Inspection Pump Pressure Test With T/N 07406-001000A Test Special Tools Required ^ P/S joint adapter (pump) 07VAK-P8A011A ^ P/S joint adapter plate (pump) 07ZAK-S7CA100 ^ P/S joint adapter (hose) 07ZAK-S7C0200 ^ P/S pressure gauge 07406-001000A Check the fluid pressure as follows to determine whether the trouble is in the pump or gearbox. 1. Check the power steering fluid level. 2. Disconnect the pump outlet hose (A) from the pump outlet with care so as not to spill the power steering fluid on the alternator, frame and other parts. Install the P/S joint adapter (pump) on the pump outlet (B). 3. Connect the P/S joint adapter (hose) to the P/S pressure gauge, then connect the pump outlet hose to the P/S joint adapter (hose). 4. Install the P/S pressure gauge to the P/S joint adapter (pump). 5. Open the pressure control valve (A) fully. 6. Start the engine and let it idle. 7. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to warm the fluid to operating temperature at 158°F (70°C). 8. Measure steady-state fluid pressure while the engine is idling. If the pump is in good condition, the pressure should be no more than 1,500 kPa (15 kgf/cm2, 213 psi). If the pressure is too high, check the outlet hose or valve body unit (see Steering System Troubleshooting). Raise the engine speed to 3,000 rpm, and measure the fluid pressure. If the pump is in good condition, the pressure should be at least 1,500 kPa (15 kgf/cm2, 213 psi). If the pressure is too high, repair or replace the pump. 9. Lower the engine speed and let it idle. Close the pressure control valve gradually until the pressure gauge needle is stable. Read the pressure. NOTICE: Do not keep the pressure control valve closed more than 5 seconds or the pump could be damaged by over-heating. Page 5835 2. Loosely install the flange nuts (A) onto the top of the damper. 3. Loosely install the flange bolt (A) on the bottom of the damper (B). 4. Raise the suspension with a floor jack to load it with the vehicle's weight, and tighten the nuts and bolt to the specified torque values. 5. Install the EVAP canister mounting bolts (only left side). 6. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc/drum and the inside of the wheel, then install the rear wheel. 7. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 6652 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 5104 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 6122 117. Blower Power Transistor Page 2284 and the bracket. 6. Remove the nuts (C), then remove the ECM/PCM (D). Page 5481 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 5636 Power Steering Pump: Service and Repair Pump Overhaul Overhaul Replace the pump as an assembly if the parts indicated with asterisk (*) are worn or damaged. Special Tools Required ^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Pulley holder 07ZAB-S5A0100 Disassembly NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed during the procedure. 1. Remove the power steering pump. 2. Drain the fluid from the pump. Page 3993 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 1415 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 6594 (Not interchangeable with CR-V and S2000 remote transmitter) Transmitter Identification The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1 seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second. Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 03-04 Accord LX and EX 2003-04 Accord LX and EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 4197 Clutch Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement NOTE: Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Remove the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder reservoir with a syringe. 2. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the negative (-) cable first, then the positive (+) cable from the battery. Remove the battery. 3. Remove the air cleaner housing. 4. Remove the battery tray. 5. Pry out the lock pin (A), and pull the pedal pin (B) out of the yoke. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (C). 6. Remove the reservoir mounting bolt (A). 7. Remove the clutch pipe bracket (B). 8. Remove the clutch master cylinder (C). 9. Disconnect the reservoir hose (A), then remove the retaining clip (B) and clutch pipe (C) from the clutch master cylinder (D). Plug the end of the reservoir hose and clutch pipe with a shop towel to prevent brake fluid from coming out. Page 4575 Shift Indicator: Service and Repair A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness Replacement 1. Remove the shift fever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), and remove the bulb from the socket. 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the A/T gear position indicator panel light harness with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light bulb in the socket. 12. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 13. Install the shift lever assembly. Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 5056 7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). 8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature. 9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature. 10. Check with an ohmmeter that no continuity exists between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and Page 5394 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 6933 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 2489 Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 2075 58. Radiator Fan Switch Page 6521 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Page 4971 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 295 54. Under Middle Of Dash 156. Side Of Front Passenger's Seat (EX: Side Airbag) Page 6480 66. Side Impact Sensor, Front Passenger's (EX: Side Airbag) Page 1616 Shift Lever Removal Shifter A/T: Service and Repair Shift Lever Removal Shift Lever Removal 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable, end holder (B). Page 5686 6. Loosely install the two 10 mm flange bolts (A) and washers (B) on the left side of the gearbox. 7. Install the mounting cushion (A) on the right side of the gearbox. Position the cutout (B) on the mounting cushion as shown. 8. Install the mounting bracket (c) over the mounting cushion. 9. Install the 10 mm flange bolt and nut loosely first, then torque the flange bolt and nut alternately in two or more steps. 10. Tighten the left side flange bolts to the specified torque value. Page 8491 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 189 Relay Box: Service and Repair Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash fuse/relay box (A). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal, and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presents. 7. Confirm that all systems work properly. Page 6214 - Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement. - Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of a damaged airbag. Page 6333 1. Place the new side airbag on the seat-back frame (A). Tighten the side airbag mounting nuts (B). 2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then connect the side airbag harness 2P connector, 4. Move the front seat and the seat-back through their full range of movement, making sure the harness wires are not pinched or interfering with other parts. 5. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 6. After installing the side airbag, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 45 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 4919 Wheel Speed Sensor: Connector Locations 127. Under Left Rear of Vehicle (EX) 130. Under Right Rear of Vehicle (EX) Page 8269 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 2337 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor A Replacement CMP Sensor A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor A connector (A). 3. Remove the bolt (B). 4. Remove CMP sensor A (C). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 217 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Locations Oil Pressure Sender: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 8617 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 6675 Cellular Phone: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 152 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Locations Clutch Switch: Locations Starting System Component Location Index Page 492 Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Release the clips of the switch and push the switch (A) out of the panel, then disconnect the 5P connector (B) from the master switch. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If there is no continuity, replace illumination bulbs (C) or the switch. Page 2691 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (Part 2) Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Remove the cover (A), then remove the set/resume/ cancel switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. - If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control actuator input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit. - If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch. Page 3680 ^ Updating with the HIM - HIM Updating in Pass-Thru Mode - HIM Updating in Storage Mode - Diagnosing HIM Error Codes - HIM Self-Test NOTE: Whenever you install a new, reprogrammable control unit/module, check that it has the latest software, and update it if needed. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Skill Level: Repair Technician Refer to the specific service bulletin for the symptom you are repairing. QUESTIONS ABOUT THE UPDATING EQUIPMENT OR THE INTERACTIVE NETWORK For questions about the Honda-supplied updating equipment, call American Honda's Special Tools hotline. For questions about the iN, call the iN Support Center. REQUIRED TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NOTE: Updating for most control units/modules can be done with any of the following tools. Page 8074 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 734101 Flat Rate Time: 0.2 hour Failed Part: P/N 78100-SCV-A21ZA H/C 7387871 Defect Code: 039 Contention Code: B01 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. Page 1462 Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair How to Reset Press and hold the trip/reset button, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and continue to hold the button for more than 10 seconds. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0420 Stored PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0420 Stored 03-031 July 8, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Element with M/T - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1 ...3L009732 2003 Element: MIL Comes On With DTC P0420 (Supersedes 03-031, dated June 3, 2003) Updated information is shown with black bars. SYMPTOM The MIL is on and DTC P0420 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold) is set. PROBABLE CAUSE Specific driving conditions may cause the ECM/PCM to incorrectly interpret sensor inputs, setting DTC P0420. CORRECTIVE ACTION Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM). REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ^ Interactive Network (iN) CD (June '03 or later) ^ iN Workstation ^ Honda Interface Module (HIM): T/N EQS05A35570 ^ PC Interface Cable (RS232): T/N VET-02002832 ^ AC Adapter (110 VAC/12 VDC Power Supply): T/N VET-02002426 These tools are already at your dealership. To order additional HIMs, interface cables, or AC adapters, call the Honda Tool and Equipment Program at 1-888-424-6857. Phone lines are open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. CT. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 37820-PZD-A02 H/C 7371180 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: B03 Template ID: 03-031A Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 652 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Restraints - Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Missing Child Seat: All Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Missing 05-016 May 17, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Is Missing PROBLEM The small button on the rear seat-back cover that marks the location of each child seat LATCH lower anchor is missing. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2001-05 Accord - ALL 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2003-05 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2002-05 Civic Si - ALL 2001-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-05 Element - ALL 2001-05 Odyssey - ALL 2003-05 Pilot - ALL CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the button. NOTE: Older vehicles have buttons without a child seat icon. The buttons in newer vehicles and the replacement buttons all have an icon. If your customer requests matching buttons, replace all the buttons at the same time as a set. PARTS INFORMATION Child Seat ISOFIX Button Kit: (Kit contains buttons in nine different colors; 10 buttons of each color.) P/N 070AZ-SHJA190, H/C 7979016 Child Seat ISOFIX Button Kit Replacement Parts: Page 8497 Diagram 115-1 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Wiring Diagrams Page 1770 Page 4984 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5143 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 4875 ERROR: undefined OFFENDING COMMAND: ‘~ STACK: Page 2016 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 120. Right Side Of Engine Compartment Page 8264 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 4681 Standard: 50 Ohms - 25 k Ohms 9. If the resistance is out of standard, replace the shift solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not available separately from the shift solenoid harness. 10. Disconnect the connectors from the shift solenoid valves. 11. Connect the shift solenoid valve A connector (BLU wire) with the ATF temperature sensor (F) on the new solenoid harness. 12. Connect the solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the new O-ring (G) on the shift solenoid harness connector (H), and install the connector in the transmission housing. 14. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 15. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 16. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 17. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. 18. Remove the transmission jack. 19. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 2251 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 1391 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 6670 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 4674 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 3459 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 92. CMP Sensor A 93. CMP Sensor B Locations 137. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 398 Wiper Control Module: Testing and Inspection Rear Wiper Control Unit Input Rear Window Wiper Control Unit Input Test 1. Remove the left rear side trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 8P connector (A) from the control unit (B). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connectors. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it. Page 1990 Suspension - Front End Clanking/Clunking On Bumps Control Arm Bushing: Customer Interest Suspension - Front End Clanking/Clunking On Bumps 09-023 April 11, 2009 Applies To: 2003-07 Element ALL 2008 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...8L000001 thru 5J6YH1...8L017044 2008 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...8L000001 thru 5J6YH2...8L019754 Clanking or Knocking Noise From the Front Suspension While Going Over Bumps SYMPTOM The front suspension clanks or knocks while going over bumps. PROBABLE CAUSE The compliance bushings in the front lower arms are cracked. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace both front compliance bushings, and do a wheel alignment. PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Page 5571 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Description and Operation Ignition Timing: Description and Operation Ignition Timing Control The ECM/PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature. Capacity Specifications Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications Charge quantity ................................................................................................................................... ..................................... 17.6 - 19.4 oz (500 - 550 g) Page 3302 Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 5426 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: M/T - Clutch Pedal Squeak/Twang or Notchy Feel Hydraulic Hose: All Technical Service Bulletins M/T - Clutch Pedal Squeak/Twang or Notchy Feel 02-002 January 11, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Squeak at the Clutch Pedal (Supersedes 02-002, dated September 21, 2004) SYMPTOM A squeak, a twang, or a notchy feel when the clutch pedal is pressed. PROBABLE CAUSE The clutch master cylinder spring is rubbing on the outer diameter of the piston when the pedal is pressed, or the master cylinder quick connect is moving. Page 7374 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 5990 4. Remove the screw, the wire harness clip (A), and holder (B), then disconnect the field coil connector (C). Remove the snap ring (D) with snap ring pliers, then remove the field coil (E). Be careful not to damage the field coil and compressor. 5. Reassemble the clutch in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these items: - Install the field coil with the wire side facing down, and align the boss on the field coil with the hole in the compressor. - Clean the rotor pulley and compressor sliding surfaces with contact cleaner or other non-petroleum solvent. - Install new snap rings, note the installation direction, and make sure they are fully seated in the groove. - Make sure that the rotor pulley turns smoothly after it's reassembled. - Route and clamp the wires properly or they can be damaged by the rotor pulley. Page 7789 8. From passenger's compartment side, weld the dash board lower (A) and damper housing extension lower (B). 9. Main weld the front wheelhouse (A) to the damper housing (B), front damper extension (C) and front side frame (D). NOTE: When cutting the front damper extension,attach the patch (E) at the cut section of the front damper extension. Page 7376 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Locations Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 5583 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Locations Horn Switch: Locations Horn Component Location Index Page 4829 Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ To prevent dripping, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels. ^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air. ^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles. ^ Replace parts with new ones as specified in the illustration. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter gets in the brake fluid. ^ Make sure no grease or oil gets on the brake discs or pads. ^ When reusing pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency. ^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system. ^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible. ^ Coat the piston, piston seal groove, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid. ^ Replace all rubber parts with new ones. ^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting. Component Locations Interior Lights Component Location Index Page 6267 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 5412 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 8452 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 5352 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 345 Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 5403 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 4516 Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 3. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 4. Remove the ATF pipe (B), ATF joint pipes (C), O-rings (D), and gasket (E). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect it securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 7449 1997 Accord SE With Factory-Installed Security System 1997 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Accord EX & 00-02 Accord SE 1998-02 Accord EX with factory-installed security system 2000 and 2002 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Page 5643 47. Hold the pulley with the special tool, and tighten the pulley nut to the specified torque. 48. Check that the pump turns smoothly by turning the pulley. If it turns hard, loosen the four flange bolts on the cover, then retighten them as in step 35, and check the pump again. Page 1562 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 8591 Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision Rear Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision 10-011 March 5, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks BACKGROUND The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not currently covered in the service manuals. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2003-10 Accord - ALL 2006-10 Civic - ALL 2007-10 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2007-10 CR-V - ALL 2003-10 Element - ALL 2009-10 Fit - ALL 2010 Insight - ALL 2005-10 Odyssey - ALL 2009-10 Pilot - ALL 2006-10 Ridgeline - ALL SYMPTOM 1 When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then reverses on its own. PROBABLE CAUSE The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty. NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to Symptom 2. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example, if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door. NOTE: Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row. These steps clear the control unit's memory. 4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Page 3248 ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 828 Page 839 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 1930 Air Filter Element: Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 1549 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 5900 10. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm (A) to support it. NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage any suspension components. 11. Remove the flange bolt, and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle. 12. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A) and adjusting cam (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), adjusting cam, and adjusting bolt. Discard the self-locking nut. 13. Remove the flange bolt (D). 14. Remove the knuckle (A) while pushing in the driveshaft and holding the driveshaft outboard joint (B) (4WD only). 15. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - First install all the suspension components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then place a floor jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening the bolts and nuts to the specified torque values. - Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and adjusting cam with the marked positions when tightening. - Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly. - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Before installing the brake disc/drum, clean the mating surfaces of the rear hub and the inside of the brake disc/drum. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc/drum and the inside of the wheel. - Check the rear wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 7833 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 6051 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Evaporator Temperature Sensor Test 1. Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance between its terminals. 2. Then pour warm water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. 3. Compare the resistance readings with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 5270 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 3870 14. If the valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: Recalls Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 1846 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 3170 12. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal B13. Is there continuity? YES - Test the alternator. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B13) and the alternator. 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 15. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P). 16. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal B13. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B13) and the alternator. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Page 945 Page 6517 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 6281 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 4758 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 2898 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Page 7173 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 6901 Multiplex Control System Component Location Index Page 1450 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 503 Oil Pressure Sender: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch. 2. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch. Page 7554 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Page 6618 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to four transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode. 3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted. 4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters. 5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Civic, 03-04 Accord, Element, Pilot 1999-00 Civic Value Package with factory-installed keyless entry system 1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system Page 3140 7. Replace the VTC oil control solenoid valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat the new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 5801 Page 801 66. Side Impact Sensor, Front Passenger's (EX: Side Airbag) Page 181 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2384 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Service and Repair IAT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the IAT sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the IAT sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing Control Module: Service and Repair PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the PCM only if the PCM does not have the latest software loaded. Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the PCM can be damaged. Page 4355 Countershaft Sensor: Description and Operation Countershaft Speed Sensor This sensor detects countershaft speed. Page 7831 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Page 8333 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid valve A terminal. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve moves. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A body. Page 8289 Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Exterior Lights - Circuit Diagram (Brake Lights) Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 1862 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 6446 Seat Belt: Service and Repair Rear Rear Seat Belt Rear Seat Belt Replacement NOTE: Check the rear seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to damage them during removal and installation. Rear Seat Belt 1. Remove these items: - Cargo floor lid - Rear trim panel - Rear seat - Rear seat striker 2. Remove the lower anchor bolt. 3. Remove the rear side trim panel. 4. Remove the quarter pillar trim. 5. Remove the upper anchor bolt (A). Page 7430 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. Page 6585 Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide 90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL 1990-93 Accord (2-door and 4-door) with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1993 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: Page 5950 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 525 Page 4860 Parking Brake Cable: Adjustments Parking Brake Check and Adjustment Check 1. Pull the parking brake lever (A) with 196 N (20 kgf, 44 lbs.) of force to fully apply the parking brake. The parking brake lever should be locked within the specified number of clicks (B). Lever locked clicks: 4 - 7 2. Adjust the parking brake if the lever clicks are not within the specification. Minor Adjustment 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Release the parking brake lever fully. 3. Remove the center console. 4. Pull the parking brake lever one click. 5. Tighten the adjusting nut (A) until the parking brakes drag slightly when the rear wheels are turned. 6. Release the parking brake lever fully, and check that the parking brakes do not drag when the rear wheels are turned. Readjust if necessary. 7. Make sure the parking brakes are fully applied when the parking brake lever is pulled all the way. 8. Install the center console. Major Adjustment (to be done when replacing parking brake shoes and after lining surface break-in) 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Release the parking brake lever fully. 3. Remove the center console. Page 8477 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 3275 Fuel Injector: Service and Repair Injector Replacement 1. Relieve fuel pressure. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Disconnect the connectors from the injectors (A). 4. Remove the ground cable bolt (G101) (B). 5. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings (C). 6. Remove the fuel rail mounting nuts (D) from the fuel rail (E). 7. Remove the injector clip (F) from the injector. 8. Remove the injector from the fuel rail. Page 7360 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 3106 Page 208 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 1950 3. Replace the plug at the specified interval or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the spark plugs listed. 4. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. Then torque them to 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft). Page 891 Countershaft Sensor: Service and Repair Countershaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the countershaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the countershaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the countershaft speed sensor, and install the countershaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Page 6479 Impact Sensor: Diagrams 51. Impact Sensor, Left Front 52. Impact Sensor, Right Front 65. Side Impact Sensor, Driver's (EX: Side Airbag) Page 8282 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 6887 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Ball Joint Removal Ball Joint: Service and Repair Ball Joint Removal Removal Special Tools Required Ball joins thread protector, 07AAF-SDAA100 Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 NOTICE: Always use a ball joint remover to disconnect a ball joint. Do not strike the housing or any other part of the ball joint connection to disconnect it. 1. Install the ball joint thread protector onto the threads of the ball joint (A). 2. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas shown (A). This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt (B) threads. 3. Loosen the pressure bolt (A), and install the special tool as shown. Insert the jaws carefully, making sure not to damage the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing by turning the adjusting bolt (B). 4. After adjusting the adjusting bolt, make sure the head of the adjusting bolt (B) is in the position shown to allow the jaw (C) to pivot. 5. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint pin pops loose from the steering arm or knuckle. If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint pin. Page 719 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch The PSP switch signals the ECM/PCM when the power steering load is high. Page 8229 10. Parking Brake Switch Page 4501 11. Attach the side rubber dam (A), lower rubber dam (B) with adhesive tape. Attach the clips (C) with adhesive tape and dashboard seal (D) to the inside face of the windshield (E) as shown: Be sure the side rubber dam, lower rubber dam, and dashboard seal line up with the alignment marks (F). - Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. 12. Apply primer to the edge of the windshield between the alignment marks (A). Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. Page 958 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Testing and Inspection Power Door Lock Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test NOTE: Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system . 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors J, M, P, Q, X and Y. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 2255 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 8519 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Power Relay Test Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 6516 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Interior - Front Seat Back Squeaking/Rubbing Noises Seat Back Frame: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Front Seat Back Squeaking/Rubbing Noises 05-075 December 21, 2005 Applies To: 2003-05 Element - ALL Front Seat-Back Makes a Squeaking, Chafing, or Rubbing Noise SYMPTOM You hear a squeaking, chafing, or rubbing noise when you push on the middle of the seat-back or on the side bolsters. PROBABLE CAUSE There are three possible causes for the noise: ^ The seat-back foam rubs against the front edge of the side of the seat frame. ^ The two top seat cover springs rub against the seat frame. ^ On vehicles with side airbags, there may be interference between the zig-zag spring and an improperly routed side airbag cover mounting hook. CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply wool felt to the front edge of both sides of the seat frame and around both ends of the seat frame rod and, on models equipped with side airbags, reposition the side airbag cover mounting hook. REQUIRED MATERIALS Wool Felt: P/N 06993-SA5-000, H/C 2086676 (One roll will repair approximately eight vehicles.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Page 1184 8. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). 11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Page 4913 10. Parking Brake Switch Page 5502 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4420 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 5540 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 3958 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 4606 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3RD Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the connector from the 3rd clutch pressure switch (A). 2. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 3. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. Page 3644 Standard: 50 Ohms - 25 k Ohms 9. If the resistance is out of standard, replace the shift solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not available separately from the shift solenoid harness. 10. Disconnect the connectors from the shift solenoid valves. 11. Connect the shift solenoid valve A connector (BLU wire) with the ATF temperature sensor (F) on the new solenoid harness. 12. Connect the solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the new O-ring (G) on the shift solenoid harness connector (H), and install the connector in the transmission housing. 14. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 15. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 16. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 17. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. 18. Remove the transmission jack. 19. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 2936 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 4993 Charging System - Alternator Overhaul Page 4666 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Page 7686 Failed Part: P/N 81526-S9A-J01 H/C 6904593 Defect Code: 07407 Symptom Code: 04205 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Push in on the upper middle of the front seat, then push in on both upper side bolsters. Do this for both front seats. If you hear any noise, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE to repair the noisy seat. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before you do this service bulletin. ^ On models with side airbags, you must disconnect the battery (as noted in step 2). However, on models without side airbags, you do not need to disconnect the battery. 1. With side airbags: Write down the customer's audio presets, and make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio. 2. With side airbags: Disconnect and isolate the negative cable from the battery, and wait for 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Cut four strips of wool felt: ^ Two 40 x 120 mm strips ^ Two 10 x 30 mm strips 4. Remove the driver's seat armrest (if applicable): ^ For 2003 models: Refer to page 20-90 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual; ^ For 2004-05 models: Refer to page 20-91 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual, or Page 3692 NOTE: If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. From the iN workstation desktop, select CM Update (ECU Rewrite). 3. Click on the Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is set to GNA600. 4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then click on Storage Mode and follow the on-screen instructions. 5. Take the GNA600 to the vehicle. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's DLC. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the DLC cable from the vehicle. 7. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Connect the power supply unit and power supply cord to the GNA600. The GNA600 does a self-check and, after about 30 seconds, its yellow No.1 and green No.2 LEDs flash. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. NOTE: Update the systems one at a time. Page 8319 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 8515 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 7645 NOTE: For color information, refer to PIB A05-0005, Child Seat Anchor Buttons. Click PARTS, then click PARTS LIBRARY, then click Parts Bulletins. Select Child Seat Anchor Buttons from the list. (Each part contains fabric washers, button posts, and back portions.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: 82123-SDA-305ZA Defect Code: 07801 Symptom Code: 03220 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the rear seat-back cover just enough to allow access to the opening where the button will be attached: ^ Refer to Section 20, Rear Seat-back Cover Replacement, in the appropriate service manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, and select the appropriate Rear Seat-back Cover Replacement procedure from the list. 2. Select the appropriate button from the Child Seat Anchor Service Set. 3. Attach the button to the rear seat-back cover: ^ Place a fabric washer over the button post. ^ Insert the post through the opening in the cover. ^ Snap the back portion onto the post. Page 6009 Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 7440 Page 35 Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation ABS Control Unit Main Control The ABS control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel sensor signal it received, then it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed. The control unit detects the vehicle speed during deceleration based on the rate of deceleration. The ABS control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel, and transmits the control signal to the modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high. The hydraulic control has three modes: pressure reducing, pressure retaining, and pressure intensifying. Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) Control The Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) function helps control vehicle braking by adjusting the rear brake force before the ABS operates. Based on wheel sensor signals, the ABS control unit uses the modulator to control the rear brakes individually. When the rear wheel speed is less than the front wheel speed, the ABS control unit retains the current rear brake fluid pressure by closing the inlet valve in the modulator. As the rear wheel speed increases and approaches the front wheel speed, the control unit increases the rear brake fluid pressure by momentarily opening the inlet valve. This whole process is repeated very rapidly. While this is happening, there may be kickback at the brake pedal. During self-diagnosis, if the ABS control unit detects a problem that affects the EBD, it turns on the brake system indicator and the ABS indicator. Self-diagnosis Function 1. The ABS control unit is equipped with a CPU and a monitor IC. They check each other for problems. 2. The CPU checks the system circuits. 3. The ABS control unit turns on the ABS and possibly the brake system indicator when the unit detects a problem, and the unit stops ABS operation. 4. The self-diagnosis can be classified into these two categories: ^ Initial diagnosis ^ Regular diagnosis On-board Diagnosis Function The ABS can be diagnosed with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. The ALB Checker cannot be used with this system. For air bleeding, and checking wheel sensor signals, use the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. See the Honda PGM Tester user's manual or HDS help menu for specific operating instructions. Page 5138 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1540 Page 4693 Braking Sensor/Switch: Adjustments Brake Pedal and Brake Pedal Position Switch Adjustment Pedal Height 1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer touching the brake pedal. 2. Lift up the carpet. At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height (B) from the middle of the pedal pad (C). Standard Pedal Height (with carpet removed): M/T: 178 mm (7 inch) A/T: 180 mm (7 3/32 inch) 3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod in or out with pliers until the standard pedal height from the floor is reached. After adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed. Page 5118 1. Carefully pry the accessory power socket (A) out from the right rear side trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the socket. 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G 451, G551). - an open in the wire. - blown No. 18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - blown No. 2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - faulty rear accessory power socket relay. Page 7890 Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Front Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip Replacement Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the door. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. 1. Remove the power/manual mirror. 2. Starting at the rear, pry the door glass outer weatherstrip (A) up to detach the clips, and release the weatherstrip from the glass run channel (B), then remove the weatherstrip. 3. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 1568 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7472 This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit. 1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one. 2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip. 3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to lock the chip in place. 4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter. 5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters. 6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat. 7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure as in steps 2 and 3.) 8. Press the reset button next to the ROM chip. 9. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit. If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is 5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from American Honda. If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at (800) 421-2284, extension 8885. Batteries for the Transmitter Page 3882 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Substitute the PCM How to Substitute the PCM 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 4. Remove the glove box stops, then open the glove box. 5. Remove the 20P harness connector (A) from its bracket, and disconnect PCM connectors. 6. Disconnect all PCM connectors. 7. Remove the relays from the glove box frame. 8. Loosen the PCM mounting nut (B) on the lower right of the PCM, and remove the mounting bolt (C) and nut (D) on the left of the PCM. 9. Lift the PCM up to clear the mounting nut on the lower right of the PCM, then pull out the PCM (E). 10. Install a known-good PCM. 11. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this will allow you to start the engine. 12. After completing your test, reinstall the original PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS again. Page 5179 Fuse Block: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8042 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2787 52. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal E7 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 57. NO - Go to step 53. 53. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 54. Remove the glove box, then remove the PGM-FI main relay 1 (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 55. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.4 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 56. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 1. Page 4774 Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ To prevent dripping, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels. ^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air. ^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles. ^ Replace parts with new ones as specified in the illustration. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter gets in the brake fluid. ^ Make sure no grease or oil gets on the brake discs or pads. ^ When reusing pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency. ^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system. ^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible. ^ Coat the piston, piston seal groove, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid. ^ Replace all rubber parts with new ones. ^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting. Page 2146 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 1558 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Locations Page 3530 16. Shift Control Solenoid Valve E (A/T) Locations Wiper Switch: Locations Wipers / Washers Component Location Index Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 5187 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Service and Repair Condenser HVAC: Service and Repair Condenser Replacement 1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the front bumper. 3. Remove the bolts, then disconnect the discharge line (A) and the condenser line (B) from the condenser. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination. 4. Remove the bolts and mounting brackets (A), then remove the condenser (B) by lifting it up. Be careful not to damage the radiator and condenser fins when removing the condenser. 5. Install the condenser in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - If you're installing a new condenser, add refrigerant oil (DENSO ND-OIL 8). - Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. - Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately. - Be careful not to damage the radiator or the condenser fins when installing the condenser. - Charge the system. Page 1209 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 2753 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Component Locations Interior Lights Component Location Index Page 1510 Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement 1. Remove the brake hose mounting bracket (A). 2. Separate the bearing unit (A) from the knuckle (B). 3. Separate the hub (A) and backing plate (B) from bearing unit (C) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the bearing unit with a press attachment (D) or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 922 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Locations Power Mirror Switch: Locations Power Mirrors Component Location Index Page 316 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 1080 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 2176 Page 366 Heated Glass Element Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type B: Rear Window Defogger Relay Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 4551 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C move. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C body. 14. If either valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. Page 6395 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Locations Page 4931 34. Clutch Interlock Switch (M/T) Page 6581 Page 3628 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Page 2537 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 8268 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 8492 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 3808 16. Shift Control Solenoid Valve E (A/T) Page 5338 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Connector Views 28. Accessory Power Socket, Front 29. Accessory Power Socket, Rear 144. Rear Accessory Power Socket And A/F Sensor Relays Page 2890 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 6912 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3126 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 8486 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Locations 137. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 3838 Fluid Line/Hose: Service and Repair ATF Cooler Hose Replacement 1. Slide the ATF cooler hoses (A) on the ATF filter (B) until they are 5 - 6 mm (0.20 - 0.24 inch) (C) away from the filter housing. 2. Secure the hoses with the clips (D) at 10 - 12 mm (0.4 - 0.5 inch) (E) from the filter housing. 3. Slide the ATF cooler hoses (F) over the ATF cooler lines (G), then secure the hoses with the clips (H) at 2 - 4 mm (0.1 - 0.2 inch) (I) from the hose ends. 4. Install the hose clamp (J) at the marks (K) on the ATF cooler hoses. Page 8168 consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. WARRANTY MILEAGE CONVERSION NOTE: Follow normal warranty claim coding when submitting a claim. SERVICE BULLETINS AFFECTED BY EXTENDED MILEAGE COVERAGE Disclaimer Page 622 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B CMP sensor B detects the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. Page 4892 Electronic Brake Control Module: Testing and Inspection ABS Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 47P Connector Page 1269 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 3626 Page 5525 5. Pull out the grommet and disconnect the connectors. Remove the rear door subharness. NOTE: The replacement harness does not have these connectors. 6. Remove the old harness from the door, noting all of the clip locations. 7. Install the new rear door harness, and make sure all of the connectors are securely connected. Also make sure all of the harness grommets and mounting clips are securely attached. 8. Reinstall all removed parts. 9. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure that the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. Disclaimer Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing airbag system service. Observe the instructions described, or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. - Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. - Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. - Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks, or deformation. - Before removing any SRS parts (including disconnection of connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. - Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. - Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. - The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code and write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before disconnecting the battery cable. - Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the radio code, then enter the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock. Do the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure and the power window control unit resetting procedure. Page 1550 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 5280 Relay Box: Service and Repair Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash fuse/relay box (A). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal, and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presents. 7. Confirm that all systems work properly. Page 5207 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8322 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 1006 Washer Fluid Level Switch: Testing and Inspection Washer Fluid Level Switch Test 1. Remove the right inner fender. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the washer fluid level switch (B). 3. Remove the washer fluid level switch from the washer reservoir. NOTE: Fluid may flow out of the opening. 4. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals in each float position (C). - There should be continuity when the float is down. - There should be no continuity when the float is up. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 2243 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 4664 Page 4449 Page 5808 2. Loosely install flange nuts (A) onto the top of the damper. 3. Position the damper on the knuckle, and install the new damper pinch bolts (A) and nuts (B), and lightly tighten the nuts. 4. Place the floor jack under the lower arm ball joint, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight. NOTICE: Do not place the jack against the lower arm ball joint. 5. Tighten the flange nuts on the top of the damper to the specified torque. 6. Tighten the damper pinch nuts to the specified torque. 7. Install the brake hose bracket (A) and the wheel sensor harness bracket (B) (with ABS) onto the damper, and tighten the bolt to the specified torque. Page 8038 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 578 Combination Switch: Service and Repair Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 16P connector (A) from the combination light switch (B). A 4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the combination light switch. 5. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. - If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 4569 8. Install the new O-rings (two O-rings per a solenoid valve) (F) on the good solenoid valve. The replacement solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. 9. Install shift solenoid valves A, C, and E by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valves until their mounting bolt brackets contact the servo body. NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve B before installing shift solenoid valve E. If solenoid valve B is installed before solenoid valve E, it may damage the hydraulic control system. 10. Install shift solenoid valve B by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valve until its mounting bolt bracket contacts the bracket of installed solenoid. 11. Connect shift solenoid valve A connector (G) with the ATF temperature sensor. 12. Connect solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 14. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 15. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 16. Remove the transmission jack. 17. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 2242 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Diagram Information and Instructions Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4798 6. Remove the pad retainers (A). 7. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. 8. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks. 9. Install the pad retainers. 10. Apply Molykote M77 grease (P/N 08798-9010) to both sides of the pad shim (A), the back of the pads (B), and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake discs and pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads. 11. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the pads with the wear indicators (C) on the inside. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency. 12. Push in the piston (A) so the caliper will fit over the pads. Check the brake fluid level. The brake fluid may overflow if the reservoir is too full. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down. Locations Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 1358 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 8528 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7621 9. Install the frame and drain tube in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Before installing the frame, clear the drain tubes and drain valves using compressed air. - Check the frame seal. - Clean the surface of the frame. - When connecting the drain tube, slide it over the frame nozzle at least 10 mm (0.39 in). - Install the tube clip (A) on the drain tube (B) as shown. 10. Check for water leaks. Let the water run freely from a hose without a nozzle. Do not use a high-pressure spray. Page 7292 - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. After you reconnect the battery: - Do the engine idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the radio anti-theft code, enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Page 1150 3. Replace the plug at the specified interval or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the spark plugs listed. 4. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. Then torque them to 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft). Page 999 5. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the three screws and replace the switch (A). Page 8459 Horn Switch: Testing and Inspection Horn Switch Test 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness B 5P connector (A) from the cable reel (B). 3. Using a jumper wire, connect the dashboard wire harness B 5P connector (A) No. 1 terminal to body ground. - If the horn sound, go to step 4. - If the horn doesn't sound, check these items: Horn relay - No. 7 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box - Horn. - An open in the wire 4. Reconnect the dashboard wire harness B 5P connector (A), and disconnect the horn switch positive 1P connector (B). 5. Using a jumper wire, connect the horn switch positive 1P connector (B) to ground. - If the horn sound, go to step 6. - If the horn does not sound, replace the cable reel. 6. Reconnect the horn switch positive 1P connector (B). 7. Using a jumper wire, connect the steering wheel to body ground. 8. Close the contacts between the horn plate and the contact plate. - If the horn sound, replace the steering column. - If the horn does not sound, replace the horn and contact plate. Page 376 2. Inspect the run channel for damage. ^ If it is damaged, replace it, then recheck the noise level. ^ If the run channel is not damaged, go to step 3. 3. Remove the door panel. 4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for excessive resistance. ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 5. ^ If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 6. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. ^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required. ^ If the window noise symptoms are still present, go to step 6. 6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it and adjust as needed. Page 3366 Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Description and Operation Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve To maintain the proper idle speed, the IAC valve changes the amount of air bypassing the throttle body in response to an electrical signal from the ECM/PCM. Page 4229 34. Clutch Interlock Switch (M/T) Page 4425 Page 5457 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 7937 Cruise Control Switch: Diagrams 136. Cruise Control Main Switch (EX; '04-'06 USA: LX) 137. Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch (EX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 7843 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 7851 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Specifications Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Type NGK ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. IZFR6K-11 DENSO ................................................................................................................................................ ....................................................... SKJ20DR-M11 Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 13 ft lb (18 Nm) Gap ..................................................................... ................................................................................................................ 0.039-0.043 inch (1.0-1.1 mm) Page 778 Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 4376 24. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 25. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. 26. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 27. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 28. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 29. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 30. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 3751 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS software onto the iN workstation. 2. Restart the CM Update application on the iN workstation. 3. On the right side of the screen, click on the tools button. 4. Click on HIM Self-Test Procedure. 5. Follow the on-screen instructions to run the HIM self-test. 6. If the self-test indicates a problem with the HIM, call the Special Tools hotline for repair instructions. Disclaimer Page 7983 Brake Warning Indicator: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 251 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 2 Page 6663 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3055 14. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine. 15. Check the PSPSW in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to OFF? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 17. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector. 18. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 19. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 20. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 to body ground with a jumper wire. 21. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal E16. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and ECM/PCM (E16). Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Description and Operation Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM/PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set each code, drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures in this section. Page 8281 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 6143 Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the given parts. - To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils. - Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if it gets on the paint, wash it off immediately. Page 860 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Electrical - Battery Replacement Precautions Battery Cable: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Battery Replacement Precautions Replacing a Battery? Don't Disconnect the Cables With the Engine Running When replacing a battery, many service techs disconnect the battery cables with the engine running to keep the data alive in volatile memory. This practice worked fine back in the day when vehicles were pretty much a box on wheels, but with so many of today's vehicles sporting a impressive array of cool, high tech hardware, it's not recommended. Here's why: ^ The battery works as a capacitor to prevent sudden swings in voltage. With the battery cables disconnected, the alternator voltage regulator tries to stabilize the system voltage, but it can only do so by turning the alternator on and off. ^ When solenoids or relays are turned on and of{ they produce a very high voltage spike that travels through the 12-volt system. This voltage spike can fry sensitive solid state components or corrupt the data that's stored in volatile memory for such components as the gauge control module, the radio, and the various control units. The best way to keep data alive in volatile memory when replacing a battery is to hook up a Honda Computer Memory Saver to the 16P data link connector (DLC). This portable tool works as a secondary 12-volt source. It saves you the hassle of writing down your customer's audio presets, resetting the clock, or even doing the idle learn procedure. Page 1631 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 2879 70. Behind Glove Box Page 6627 The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart, look at the FCC ID on the back. 1999-00 - FCC ID: E4EG8DN 2001-04 - FCC ID: OUCG8D-440H-A* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-01 Prelude With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 1999-01 Prelude with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 664 128. Under Left Rear Of Vehicle Page 2248 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6301 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 7162 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Page 1547 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 2156 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 8366 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2117 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 4101 Shifter A/T: Service and Repair Shift Lever Ring Replacement Shift Lever Ring Replacement 1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 3. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 4. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Page 7104 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 7993 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3978 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Testing and Inspection Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Coolant Temperature Gauge Troubleshooting Before testing, check the No. 9 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Start the engine, and check the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). Does the MIL come and stay on? YES - Troubleshoot the cause of the ECM/PCM DTC, and recheck. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Check for a multiplex control unit DTC. Is a DTC indicated? YES - Troubleshooting the cause of the multiplex control unit DTC, and recheck. NO - Go to step 3. 3. Do the communication line check with the self-diagnosis procedure. Is the word "Error" indicated on the odo/trip meter display? YES - The gauge cannot receive the signal from the multiplex control unit and the ECM/PCM. Check for an open in the WHT/GRN wire (gauge connector terminal B10). NO - Go to step 4. 4. Do the gauge drive circuit check with the self-diagnosis procedure. Does the temperature gauge needle sweep from the minimum position to the maximum, then return to the minimum position? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Replace the gauge assembly. 5. Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM , and recheck. Does the symptom/indication go away? YES - Replace the ECM/PCM. NO - Substitute a known-good gauge assembly. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the gauge assembly. Page 3943 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 315 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 6028 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 6303 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Locations 36. In Steering Column Cover Page 2030 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 3094 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Page 6288 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 2204 Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P0420 Service Manual Revision SOURCE: Honda Service News July 2004 TITLE: S/M Fix: DTC P0420 Troubleshooting APPLIES TO: 2003-04 Accord, 2003-04 Element SERVICE TIP: The troubleshooting procedure for DTC P0420 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold) in the 2003-04 Accord S/M and the 2003-04 Element S/M is wrong. It was written before we had the current software problem and the updated software to correct this DTC. Make this change in your copies of the appropriate S/M: 20030-4 Accord Page 11-245, step 9: Change the text to read: Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM). Refer to Service Bulletin 03-063 for specific model application and procedural information. 2003-04 Element Page 11-219, step 9: Change the text to read: Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM). Refer to Service Bulletin 03-031 for specific model application and procedural information. Don't replace the catalytic converter unless the software has already been updated and DTC P0420 sets again; doing so wouldn't provide a lasting repair and could result in a warranty debit. Page 3032 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Page 2824 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Locations Page 3697 Two updating modes can be used with the HIM: Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Pass-Thru mode is used when the HIM can be connected to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. Storage mode is used when the HIM cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. HIM Updating in Pass-Thru Mode NOTE: If the red No.3 LED on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error Codes. 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication Installation Instructions for HDS PC Software on ISIS. NOTE: If the latest software is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. From the iN workstation desktop, select CM Update (ECU Rewrite). 3. Connect the PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the HIM. 4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-thru-Mode. 5. Connect the HIM to the vehicle's DLC. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Click on the check mark to continue. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. Page 2673 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 8474 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 6453 - Apply liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolt before reinstallation. - Assemble the washers on the center anchor bolt as shown. - If the seat belt tensioner has been deployed, replace the front seat belt protector with a new one. - Apply liquid thread lock to the seat mounting bolts before reinstallation. - Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio stations presets. - Reset the clock. - Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. Page 7127 48. Hatch Lock Actuator Page 4991 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 5329 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5780 Stabilizer Link: Service and Repair Rear Suspension Removal/Installation 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the rear wheels. 2. Remove the self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) while holding the respective joint pin (C) with a hex wrench (D), and remove the stabilizer link (E). 3. Install the stabilizer link (A) on the stabilizer bar (B) and trailing arm (C) with the joint pins (D) set at the center of their range of movement. 4. Install the self-locking nut and flange nut, and lightly tighten them. NOTE: Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly. 5. Place a jack under the trailing arm at the knuckle-side end, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight. Page 4809 Reinstall the tool bed on the brake lathe with the top of the cutting bits facing up and the feed knobs facing down. Adjust the tool bed until the brake disc is centered between the cutting bits. For proper refinishing, the brake disc must turn toward the top of the cutting bits. Do not set the cutting depth on the brake lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.). This is two divisions on the cutting knob. Make sure you start your cut at least 3 mm (0.12 in.) beyond the worn area on the brake disc. If you are cutting larger diameter brake discs, make sure you use the 150 cutting bit holders. These bit holders, available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION), supersede the original bit holders and provide better cutting coverage for larger diameter brake discs. Each bit holder is clearly marked for proper installation on the tool holder. Cutting the Brake Disc To get the smoothest cut and the best brake disc finish, always use the slowest feed speed on the tool bed feed motor. Place the drive belt on the smallest pulley of the feed motor and on the largest pulley of the hand wheel. Make sure the lower toggle switch on the power drive system drive motor assembly is set to the proper rotation to turn the brake disc toward the top of the cutting bits. Plug the tool bed feed motor into the power outlet on the drive motor assembly, then turn on the drive motor with the upper toggle switch on the assembly. If you are not using the power drive system, make sure the transmission is in 1st gear (2nd gear on Preludes with ATTS) or Reverse and the engine is idling, but not at a fast idle. If the transmission and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits. Turn on the tool bed feed motor, and snap it into place; there should be tension on the feed belt. Cut the brake disc until the cutting bits clear the outer edge of the disc. The cutting bits should produce a smooth, consistent finish with no chatter marks or grooves. If the disc did not clean up entirely on the first pass, reset the brake lathe and make a second pass. Page 556 ERROR: undefined OFFENDING COMMAND: ‘~ STACK: Page 1627 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 5146 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1911 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 7203 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 704 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Page 231 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 5542 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 3979 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 2925 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions: - Replace the ECM/PCM or disconnect its connector. - Reset the ECM/PCM. NOTE: Erasing DTCs with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure. Procedure: 1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.,) are off. 2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 °F (90 °C). 3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes. Page 4679 30. ATF Temperature Sensor (A/T) Page 2035 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Locations 36. In Steering Column Cover Page 6890 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 861 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 4393 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the connector from the 2nd clutch pressure switch (A). 3. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 4. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. 5. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 4566 Shift Solenoid: Diagrams 13. Shift Control Solenoid Valve A (A/T) 14. Shift Control Solenoid Valve B (A/T) 15. Shift Control Solenoid Valve C (A/T) Page 7754 74. Driver's Door Page 924 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 8689 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 576 185. Combination Light Switch Page 4884 Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Brake Booster Replacement 1. Remove the master cylinder. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly (A). 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the brake booster. 4. Remove the clip (A) and the joint pin (B), and disconnect the yoke from the brake pedal. 5. Remove the brake booster mounting nuts (C). 6. Remove the brake booster (A) from the engine compartment. Page 8033 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 1329 Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the given parts. - To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils. - Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if it gets on the paint, wash it off immediately. Specifications Crankshaft: Specifications Crankshaft Main journal diameter No.1, 2, 4 and 5 journals ......................................................................................................................... 54.984 - 55.008 mm (2.1648 - 2.1657 inch) No.3 journal ............................................................................................................................................ 54.876 55.000 mm (2.1644 - 2.1654 inch) Rod journal diameter ..................................................................................................................................... 47.976 58.000 mm (1.8888 - 1.8898 inch) Rod/main journal taper Standard or New ................................................................................................................................................... 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch) maximum Service Limit .......................................................................................... ............................................................................... 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) Rod/main journal out-of-round Standard or New ................................................................................................................................................... 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch) maximum Service Limit .......................................................................................... ............................................................................... 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) End play Standard or New .................................................................................................................................................. 0.10 0.35 mm (0.004 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... .................................................................................. 0.04 mm (0.0016 inch) Runout Standard or New ..................................................................................................................................................... 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch) maximum Service Limit .......................................................................................... ................................................................................. 0.04 mm (0.0016 inch) Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Fuel Door Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Page 575 35. In Steering Column Cover Page 6921 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 1497 Page 6059 Heater Control Valve Cable: Adjustments Heater Valve Cable Adjustment 1. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). 2. From under the dash, disconnect the heater valve cable housing from the cable clamp (A), and disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the air mix control linkage (C). 3. Set the temperature control dial on Max Cool with the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the air mix control linkage (C) as shown above. Hold the end of the heater valve cable housing against the stop (D), then snap the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A). 5. From under the hood, turn the heater valve arm (C) to the fully closed position as shown, and hold it. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the heater valve arm, and gently pull on the heater valve cable housing to take up any slack, then install the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A). Page 1078 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Service and Repair Carpet: Service and Repair Floor Covering Replacement Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program; SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before performing repairs or service. NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to damage, wrinkle or twist the floor covering. - Be careful not to damage the dashboard or other interior trim pieces. Front Floor Covering 1. Remove these items: - Front seats, both sides. - Door sill trim, both sides - Kick panels, both sides - Passenger's dashboard under cover - Center lower cover - Center console - Subwoofer 2. Remove the front floor covering (A). 1. Remove the clips. 2. Release the fastener (B), then pull back the floor covering from under the heater unit. 3. Release the fasteners (C) on the front edge of the floor covering, then pull back the floor covering from under the dashboard. 3. Remove the front floor covering. 4. Install the floor covering in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Take care not to damage, wrinkle or twist the floor covering. - Make sure the seat harnesses are routed correctly. - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Rear Floor Covering 1. Remove these items: - Front seats, both sides - Door sill trim, both sides - Rear side trim panel, both sides - Center console Page 153 141. Low Beam Cut And DRL Relays (Canada) Locations Low Beam Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 1037 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Page 5364 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3112 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 5000 wrench. 4. Remove the harness stay and the three flange nuts from the alternator. 5. Remove the end cover. 6. Remove the brush holder. Page 5331 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 2448 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 2092 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 5761 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (c) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E) with a plastic hammer while drawing the knuckle outward, then remove the knuckle. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: ^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the knuckle. ^ Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. ^ First install all the components and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values. Do not place the jack against the ball joint pin of the lower arm. ^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it. ^ Install a new lock pin on the castle nut after torquing. ^ Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. ^ Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. ^ Replace the self-locking nuts, damper pinch bolts and nuts with new ones. ^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of the brake disc. ^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. ^ Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Wheel Bearing Replacement 1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. 2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. Page 3011 9. Knock Sensor Page 8262 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 5026 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 2785 40. Remove the glove box, and remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 41. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E9 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse and the ECM/PCM (E9), or between the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Go to step 42. 42. Remove the center console, both track floor covers, and both door sill trims. 43. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. 44. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. 45. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the fuel pump and PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Go to step 46. Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index Page 4057 Page 8028 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 4658 Page 2429 56. PSP Switch Page 6896 Diagram 118-3 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Specifications Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications Relief valve, oil pressure with oil temperature at 176°F (80°C) At idle ................................................................................................................................................... ................ 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) minimum At 3,000 rpm ....................................................................................................................................................... 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) minimum Page 8457 34. Inside Steering Wheel Page 225 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 2699 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 2 Page 7808 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. Page 7059 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Page 312 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 5949 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 204 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 6041 Control Assembly: Service and Repair Heater Control Panel Removal and Installation 1. Remove the center panel. 2. Remove the self-tapping screws and the heater control panel (A) from the center panel (B). 3. Install the control panel in the reverse order of removal. After installation, operate the various functions to see whether they works properly. 4. Run the self-diagnosis function to confirm that there are no problems in the system. Page 792 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 1620 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 8286 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 631 91. CKP Sensor Page 5859 10. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm (A) to support it. NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage any suspension components. 11. Remove the flange bolt, and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle. 12. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A) and adjusting cam (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), adjusting cam, and adjusting bolt. Discard the self-locking nut. 13. Remove the flange bolt (D). 14. Remove the knuckle (A) while pushing in the driveshaft and holding the driveshaft outboard joint (B) (4WD only). 15. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - First install all the suspension components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then place a floor jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening the bolts and nuts to the specified torque values. - Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and adjusting cam with the marked positions when tightening. - Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly. - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Before installing the brake disc/drum, clean the mating surfaces of the rear hub and the inside of the brake disc/drum. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc/drum and the inside of the wheel. - Check the rear wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 3983 Page 772 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor (A). 2. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 3496 Ignition System Component Location Index Page 7595 In warranty: American Honda will reimburse for this repair only under these conditions: ^ It is done during PDI ^ No more than 30 days have elapsed since the vehicle was received at the dealership (according to the date noted on the motor carrier's bill of lading) Operation number: 812355 Flat rate time: 1.0 hour Failed P/N: PDI-PAINT, H/C 3173994 *Defect code: 08103 Symptom code 08811* Skill level: Repair Technician *NOTE: When submitting the claim, make sure you enter the vehicle's date of receipt in the customer contention comment section. The claim will be rejected without this information.* REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Wash and dry the vehicle out of direct sunlight. 2. Tear off a piece of clay. Shape the piece with your hands into a flat disk about 3 inches in diameter. 3. Spray a 2-to 3-square-foot area of the affected panel with the manufacturer's lubricant. 4. Clean a 1-square-foot section of the sprayed area by rubbing it with the clay. Page 2739 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 3816 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Substitute the PCM How to Substitute the PCM 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 4. Remove the glove box stops, then open the glove box. 5. Remove the 20P harness connector (A) from its bracket, and disconnect PCM connectors. 6. Disconnect all PCM connectors. 7. Remove the relays from the glove box frame. 8. Loosen the PCM mounting nut (B) on the lower right of the PCM, and remove the mounting bolt (C) and nut (D) on the left of the PCM. 9. Lift the PCM up to clear the mounting nut on the lower right of the PCM, then pull out the PCM (E). 10. Install a known-good PCM. 11. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this will allow you to start the engine. 12. After completing your test, reinstall the original PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS again. Page 177 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2434 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Service and Repair Power Steering Hoses, Lines, and Pressure Switch Replacement Note these items during installation: ^ Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from the hose end as shown. ^ Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new ones if necessary. ^ Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the reservoir and check for leaks. Page 5648 56. PSP Switch Page 2239 70. Behind Glove Box Page 5108 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Locations Headlamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 3417 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM/PCM. The TP sensor is not available separately from the throttle body. Page 5279 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6035 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1709 12. With the specified air pressure applied, move the intake primary rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. The primary rocker arm and secondary rocker arm (B) should move together. If the intake secondary rocker arm does not move, remove the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and check that the pistons in the primary and secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and test. 13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 for the remaining cylinders. Be sure to set the cylinder's piston at TDC before beginning work. 14. Remove the special tools. 15. Tighten the camshaft holder mounting bolts to 22 Nm (2.2 kgf-m, 16 ft. lbs.). 16. Tighten the sealing bolt to 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 ft. lbs.). 17. Install the cylinder head cover. Page 8361 Page 2422 Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Oxygen Sensor Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the three way catalytic converter (TWC), and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output; the sensor has an internal heater. The ECM/PCM compares the HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is located on the TWC. Page 7869 2. Slightly loosen the striker bolts, and adjust the striker in or out to get the proper measurement. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 3. Check the tailgate for drag by holding in the release lever and opening and closing the tailgate. ^ If the tailgate does not drag, go to step 5. ^ If the tailgate drags, go to step 4. 4. The tailgate strikers will drop when loosened. Mark the original position before loosening the striker bolts. Slightly loosen the striker bolts, and adjust the strikers up and down to eliminate any drag. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 5. Check the adjustment of the hatch. The hatch edge should be even with or 1 mm below the fender. ^ If the adjustment is correct, go to step 7. ^ If the adjustment is not correct, go to step 6. 6. If the hatch sits out too far, screw the hatch edge cushions in two full turns. If it sits in too far, screw the hatch edge cushions out two full turns. 7. Check the hatch for latch drag by holding in the release lever and opening and closing the hatch door. ^ If the latch does not drag, the repair is complete. ^ If the latch drags, go to step 8. 8. Slightly loosen the center striker bolts. While holding in the release lever, open and close the hatch to align the striker. Adjust the striker as needed to eliminate any drag. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). Disclaimer Engine Controls - Vehicle Moves Too Fast Idling In Gear PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest Engine Controls - Vehicle Moves Too Fast Idling In Gear 06-041 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-05 Accord L4 - All with A/T *2003-05 Element - All with A/T* Vehicle Moves (Creeps) Faster Than Expected When Idling in Gear (Supersedes 06-041, dated July 18, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The vehicle moves slightly faster than expected with the transmission in gear, foot off the brake, and foot off the throttle. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM PGM-FI software causes extra engine torque after a cold start. CORRECTIVE ACTION Update the PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Page 3690 NOTE: If the latest software is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. From the iN workstation desktop, select CM Update (ECU Rewrite). 3. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Click on the Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is set to GNA600. 4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-th ru-Mode. 5. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's DLC. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on. Click on the check mark to continue. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. NOTE: Update the systems one at a time. Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 4447 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 7468 Page 2767 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Odometer - Does It Rack Up Miles When Towed Odometer: All Technical Service Bulletins Odometer - Does It Rack Up Miles When Towed SOURCE: Honda Service News April 2003 TITLE: Does a Towed Vehicle's Odometer Rack Up Miles? APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: If the vehicle has an electronic speedometer (one that isn't cable-driven), the answer is NO. The odometer doesn't rack up mileage as long as the ignition switch is in the LOCK (0) or the ACC (1) position. Page 2998 128. Under Left Rear Of Vehicle Page 1523 - Shift the transmission in Neutral. Automatic Transmission - Release the parking brake. - Start the engine. - Shift to FD position, then N position. - Turn off the engine. It is best to tow the vehicle no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55 km/h). NOTE : - Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), the vehicle must be transported on a flat-bed. - Trying to lift or tow the vehicle by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the vehicle's weight. Page 2249 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 4162 3. Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft. Measure the thrust clearance between the ATF pump driven gear (A) and the valve body (B) with a straight edge (C) and a feeler gauge (D). ATF Pump Drive/Driven Gear Thrust (Axial) Clearance: Standard (New): 0.03 - 0.05 mm (0.001 - 0.002 inch) Service Limit: 0.07 mm (0.003 inch) Regulator Valve Body Disassembly, Inspection, and Reassembly 1. Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all passages. 2. Inspect the valve body for scoring and damage. 3. Check all valves for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, refer to valve body repair. 4. Hold the regulator spring cap in place while removing the stop bolt. The regulator spring cap is spring loaded. Once the stop bolt is removed, release the spring cap slowly so it does not pop out. 5. Coat all parts with ATF during assembly. Page 8584 Map Light: Testing and Inspection Spotlights Test/Replacement 1. Turn the light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lenses (A) with a small screwdriver. 3. Remove the two mounting screws. 4. Disconnect the 2P connector (B) from the housing (C). 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table and the left mounting screw eyelet (D). 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb. If the bulb is OK, replace the spotlight assembly. Page 8403 39. Door Lower Switch, Right Rear 40. Door Upper Switch, Left Rear 41. Door Upper Switch, Right Rear Locations Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 19. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 1648 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 31 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 5140 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Tailgate Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Page 7557 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Page 4891 Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation ABS Control Unit Main Control The ABS control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel sensor signal it received, then it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed. The control unit detects the vehicle speed during deceleration based on the rate of deceleration. The ABS control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel, and transmits the control signal to the modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high. The hydraulic control has three modes: pressure reducing, pressure retaining, and pressure intensifying. Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) Control The Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) function helps control vehicle braking by adjusting the rear brake force before the ABS operates. Based on wheel sensor signals, the ABS control unit uses the modulator to control the rear brakes individually. When the rear wheel speed is less than the front wheel speed, the ABS control unit retains the current rear brake fluid pressure by closing the inlet valve in the modulator. As the rear wheel speed increases and approaches the front wheel speed, the control unit increases the rear brake fluid pressure by momentarily opening the inlet valve. This whole process is repeated very rapidly. While this is happening, there may be kickback at the brake pedal. During self-diagnosis, if the ABS control unit detects a problem that affects the EBD, it turns on the brake system indicator and the ABS indicator. Self-diagnosis Function 1. The ABS control unit is equipped with a CPU and a monitor IC. They check each other for problems. 2. The CPU checks the system circuits. 3. The ABS control unit turns on the ABS and possibly the brake system indicator when the unit detects a problem, and the unit stops ABS operation. 4. The self-diagnosis can be classified into these two categories: ^ Initial diagnosis ^ Regular diagnosis On-board Diagnosis Function The ABS can be diagnosed with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. The ALB Checker cannot be used with this system. For air bleeding, and checking wheel sensor signals, use the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. See the Honda PGM Tester user's manual or HDS help menu for specific operating instructions. Page 1435 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2994 Electric Load Sensor: Description and Operation Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Since the early ’90s, Honda vehicles have come with an electrical load detector (ELD) unit in the under-hood fuse/relay box. This unit allows the ECM/PCM to regulate the alternator (switch it between high output and low output) to provide the best combination of fuel economy and electrical system operation. The ELD sends a signal to the ECM/PCM that is proportional to the electrical demand. The ECM/PCM switches the alternator between high output and low output depending on several factors, which include electrical demand, battery charge level, and the driving cycle. When the alternator is in low output, the engine load is reduced and fuel economy improves. Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision 10-011 March 5, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks BACKGROUND The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not currently covered in the service manuals. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2003-10 Accord - ALL 2006-10 Civic - ALL 2007-10 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2007-10 CR-V - ALL 2003-10 Element - ALL 2009-10 Fit - ALL 2010 Insight - ALL 2005-10 Odyssey - ALL 2009-10 Pilot - ALL 2006-10 Ridgeline - ALL SYMPTOM 1 When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then reverses on its own. PROBABLE CAUSE The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty. NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to Symptom 2. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example, if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door. NOTE: Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row. These steps clear the control unit's memory. 4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Page 2316 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 2663 70. Behind Glove Box Page 8691 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 6123 Power Transistor HVAC: Testing and Inspection Power Transistor Test 1. Disconnect the 4P connector from the power transistor. 2. Measure the resistance between the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals of the power transistor. It should be about 1.4 - 1.5 kOhm. - If the resistance is within the specifications, go to step 3. - If the resistance is not within the specifications, replace the power transistor. 3. Carefully release the lock tab on the No. 1 terminal (BLU/YEL) (A) in the 4P connector, then remove the terminal and insulate it from body ground. 4. Reconnect the 4P connector to the power transistor. 5. Supply 12 volts to the No. 1 cavity with a jumper wire. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check that the blower motor runs, - If the blower motor does not run, replace the power transistor. - If the blower motor runs, the power transistor is OK. Page 5827 Reassembly NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed. 1. Install the upper spring mounting cushion (A) on the upper spring seat (B) by aligning the tab portion (C) on the cushion with the cutout (D) in the seat. 2. Install the damper spring (E) in the groove of the cushion securely. 3. Install the damper mounting bearing and damper mounting base on the upper spring seat. 4. Install the upper spring seat and the spring on a commercially available strut spring compressor (A), and compress the spring lightly. 5. Insert the damper unit (B) up through the compressed spring. 6. Align the bottom of the spring (c) and the stepped part (D) of the lower spring seat. Page 8678 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 5551 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 62 Compressor Clutch Relay: Description and Operation Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Clutch Relay When the ECM/PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode. Page 7278 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Specifications Brake Fluid: Specifications Fluid type * ........................................................................................................................................... ....................... Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid *If Honda fluid is not available, use only DOT 3 or 4 from a sealed container as a temporary replacement. However, the use of any non Honda brake fluid cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system. Page 7806 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Page 1167 Drive Belt: Service and Repair Drive Belt Replacement 1. Move the auto-tensioner (A) to relieve tension from the drive belt, and remove the drive belt. 2. Install the new belt in the reverse order of removal. Page 8106 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2503 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 6088 Heater Core Case: Service and Repair Heater Unit/Core Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 3. With air conditioning; disconnect the A/C lines from the evaporator core. 4. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). Turn the heater valve arm to the fully opened position as shown. 5. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator. 6. Slide the hose clamps (A) back, then disconnect the inlet heater hose (B) and the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater core. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately. 7. Remove the mounting bolt and the heater valve as shown. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines and the brake lines, etc. 8. Remove the dashboard. 9. Remove the ECM/PCM. Page 939 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Power Relay Test Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Diagrams 222. CD Changer (Honda Accessory) Page 8188 6. Oil Pressure Switch Service and Repair Page 5251 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6831 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 2510 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required - Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A - Fuel pressure gauge set 07ZAJ-S5A0100 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 330 - 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 55 psi). - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then recheck the fuel pressure. Page 8494 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 5252 134. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) 135. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 271 67. Behind Glove Box Page 7447 On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number from one of the original transmitters. If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500) 552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time). You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be applied to the order. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 94-97 Accord 5-Door EX, 95-98 Odyssey EX 1994-97 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1995-98 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: ^ The system accepts up to two transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.) 3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will exit the programming mode.) 4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode. 5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of programming the first transmitter. 7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 96-04 Accord, CRV, DelSOL, Ody., Prelude, S2000, Insight, Pilot 1996-02 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1998-02 Accord DX & LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 6392 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Door Lock Cylinder: Customer Interest Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Service and Repair Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair Cowl Cover Replacement 1. Remove the windshield wiper arms. 2. Remove the passenger's cowl cover (A) and the driver's cowl cover (B).Take care not to scratch the body. 1. Using a clip remover, detach the clips (C), then remove the hood rear seal (D). 2. Using a clip remover, remove the clips (E) from the cowl covers. 3. Release the windshield washer tube (F). 4. Detach the clips (G, H) and release the hooks (I, J) by carefully pulling the passenger's cowl cover upward. 5. Pull the cover forward to release the hooks (K), and pull the hinge cover (L) out from the front fender (M), then remove the passenger's cowl cover. 6. Detach the clips (G, H, N), and release the hook (0) by carefully pulling the driver's cowl cover upward. 7. Pull the cover forward to release the hooks (P), and pull the hinge cover (Q) out from the front fender (R), then remove the driver's cowl cover. 3. Install the cowl covers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips and hooks into place securely. Page 3698 NOTE: Update the systems one at a time. 7. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are for the vehicle you are updating, then click on the check mark. 8. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HIM. Page 3446 101. Ignition Coils Page 8675 VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Service and Repair VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is sticking or is clogged replaced it; then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. Page 2666 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 8005 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3069 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Page 7003 Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Front Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip Replacement Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the door. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. 1. Remove the power/manual mirror. 2. Starting at the rear, pry the door glass outer weatherstrip (A) up to detach the clips, and release the weatherstrip from the glass run channel (B), then remove the weatherstrip. 3. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 8117 Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Fuel sender wrench 07XAA-001010A 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the fuel till cap. 3. Remove the center console, both track floor covers, and both sill trims. 4. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 5. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 6. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (C) from the fuel tank unit. 7. Using the special tool, loosen the fuel pump sending assembly locknut (A). Page 2309 Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 3147 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly 2. Remove the cover (A). 3. Remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (B). 4. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 207 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 4673 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Locations 24. Left Side of Engine Page 8331 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 3944 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 3820 (A/T) Page 5709 92. Install the rack end plug (A). 93. Clean off any grease or contamination from the boot installation grooves (c) around on the housing. 94. Slide the steering rack, and adjust the distance between the cylinder housing end and the end of the rack end plug to 70.5 mm (2.8 inch). Install boot B. and set the boot end in the installation grooves in the cylinder housing and rack end plug properly. Install the clip (D) and boot guard (E). Install the new boot band (F) in the band grooves of boot B by aligning the tabs (G) with the holes (H) in the band. 95. Close the ear portion (A) of the band (B) with a commercially available pincers, Oetiker 1098 or equivalent (C). Slide the rack right and left to be certain that the boots are not deformed or twisted. 96. Install a new lock washer (A) on the tie-rod (B) with the radiused side of the washer toward the tie-rod, and screw the tie-rod into the bracket (C). Repeat this step for the other tie-rod. Hold the bracket with one wrench, and tighten both tie-rods to the specified torque with another wrench. Page 7956 35. Clutch Pedal Position Switch (M/T: EX, '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 4234 8. Move the release fork (A) right and left to make sure that it fits properly against the release bearing (B) and that the release bearing slides smoothly. Page 8602 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 1929 Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 1734 Engine Oil Pressure: Testing and Inspection Test If the oil pressure warning light stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level. If the oil level is correct: 1. Remove the engine oil pressure switch, and install an oil pressure came (A). 2. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the problem before continuing. 3. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at least twice). The pressure should be: Engine Oil Temperature: 176°F (80°C) Engine Oil Pressure: At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) minimum At 3,000 rpm: 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) minimum 4. If the oil pressure is NOT within specifications, inspect these items: - Check the oil screen for clogging. - Check the oil pump. Page 227 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 4006 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3RD Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the connector from the 3rd clutch pressure switch (A). 2. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 3. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. Page 8156 46. Reinstall PGM-FI main relay 2 (A). 47. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Check the fuel pump, and replace it if necessary. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. 48. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 49. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 50. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 51. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal E9 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 52. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse and the ECM/PCM (E9). Page 8364 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 2977 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 6877 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 3809 Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Solenoid Valve Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve connectors. 7. Remove the bolts, and hold the shift solenoid valve body, then remove them. Do not hold the connector to remove. Front Suspension Page 7002 ^ If the run channel is not pinched, continue with normal troubleshooting. Locations Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Locations 95. Under Driver's Seat 96. Under Front Passenger's Seat Page 452 10. Parking Brake Switch Page 8481 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 8439 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 8014 Page 8606 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3658 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 2893 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6238 7. Remove the steering column cover screws (A), then remove the steering column covers (B, C). 8. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness B 5P connector (A) from the cable reel, then disconnect the dashboard wire harness B4P connector (B) from the cable reel. 9. Release the tab (A), then pull off the cable reel (B). Installation 1. Before installing the steering wheel, align the front wheels straight ahead. 2. If not already done, disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Set the cancel sleeve (A) so the projections (B) are aligned vertically. Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 8676 Page 4157 Valve Body: Service and Repair Valve Bodies and ATF Strainer Removal NOTE: The illustration shows the 4WD transmission; the 2WD is similar. NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed during the following procedure. 1. Remove the ATF feed pipes from the regulator valve body and the servo body. 2. Remove the ATF strainer (two bolts). 3. Remove the servo body (13 bolts), then remove the separator plate and dowel pins (two). 4. Remove the ATF joint pipes (one bolt) from the regulator valve body. 5. Remove the regulator valve body (seven bolts). 6. Remove the stator shaft and stator shaft stop. 7. Remove the regulator separator plate and dowel pins (two). 8. Remove the cooler check valve spring and valve from the main valve body, then remove the main valve body (three bolts). Do not let the check balls fall out. 9. Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft, then remove the ATF pump gears. 10. Remove the main separator plate and dowel pins (two). Page 2418 126. Under Middle Of Vehicle Page 3773 19. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 20. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 21. Remove the shift lock solenoid harness clamp from the shift lever bracket, and remove the shift lock solenoid. 22. Replace the shift lock solenoid. 23. Install the new shift lock solenoid (A) on the shift lever/bracket assembly (B) with aligning the shift lock solenoid plunger (C) with the tip of the shift lock stop (D). 24. Install the harness clamp (E) on the shift lock solenoid harness (F) at 128 - 138 mm (5.0 - 5.4 inch) (G) from the harness terminal end. 25. Install the clamp in the hole (H) of the shift lever bracket. 26. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 27. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. Page 6925 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor The A/F Sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F Sensor is installed upstream of the TWC, and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. Page 1124 Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection Idle Speed Inspection NOTE: - Leave the idle air control (IAC) valve connected. - Before checking the idle speed, check these items: - The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on. - Ignition timing - Spark plugs - Air cleaner - PCV system - Pull the parking brake lever up. 1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector. 2. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard. 3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed with no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off. 5. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with the heater fan switch on HI and air conditioner on, then check the idle speed. NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. If the idle is still out of specification, go to the Symptom Troubleshooting Index. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 6. Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve connector. Page 8130 5. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connector (A) from the rear door wire harness. Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner 6. Disconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connector (A). SRS Unit 7. Disconnect SRS unit connector A, SRS unit connector B, or SRS unit connector C from the SRS unit. Page 7372 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 8154 34. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and each item. Also replace the No, 6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. NO - Replace PGM-FI main relay 1. Also replace the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. 35. Inspect the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 48. NO - Go to step 36. 36. Remove the blown No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box. 37. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 38. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 39. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E9 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 40. NO - Replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse, and update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Page 4659 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A). 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the park pin switch with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No.2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 12. Install the shift lever assembly. Service and Repair High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Service and Repair Compressor Relief Valve Replacement 1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the relief valve (A), and the O-ring (B). Plug the opening to keep foreign matter from entering the system and the compressor oil from running out. 3. Clean the mating surfaces. 4. Replace the O-ring with a new one at the relief valve, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing it. 5. Remove the plug, and install and tighten the relief valve. 6. Charge the system. Page 2272 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (Part 2) Page 534 Door Switch: Diagrams 4. Door Switch, Driver's 5. Door Switch, Front Passenger's 38. Door Lower Switch, Left Rear Page 4862 Parking Brake Cable: Service and Repair Replacement NOTE: ^ The parking brake cables must not be bent or distorted. This will lead to stiff operation and premature failure. ^ Refer to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure. 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the rear wheels. 2. Release the parking brake lever fully. 3. Remove the center console. 4. Back off the adjusting nut (A) in the equalizer, and disconnect the parking brake cable ends (B) from the equalizer. 5. Remove the cable guide base (C). 6. Remove the rear brake shoes, and disconnect the parking brake cable from the shoe. Page 6837 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. Page 1766 Engine Oil Pressure: Testing and Inspection Test If the oil pressure warning light stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level. If the oil level is correct: 1. Remove the engine oil pressure switch, and install an oil pressure came (A). 2. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the problem before continuing. 3. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at least twice). The pressure should be: Engine Oil Temperature: 176°F (80°C) Engine Oil Pressure: At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) minimum At 3,000 rpm: 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) minimum 4. If the oil pressure is NOT within specifications, inspect these items: - Check the oil screen for clogging. - Check the oil pump. Page 2446 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Page 8593 Locations Power Door Lock Actuator: Locations Power Door Locks Component Location Index Adjustments Brake Pedal Assy: Adjustments Brake Pedal and Brake Pedal Position Switch Adjustment Pedal Height 1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer touching the brake pedal. 2. Lift up the carpet. At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height (B) from the middle of the pedal pad (C). Standard Pedal Height (with carpet removed): M/T: 178 mm (7 inch) A/T: 180 mm (7 3/32 inch) 3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod in or out with pliers until the standard pedal height from the floor is reached. After adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed. ECM/PCM Terminal Values Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection ECM/PCM Terminal Values ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 1 Page 4650 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 2772 68. Behind Glove Box Interior - Rear Hatch Trim Panel Loose/Falls OFF Trim Panel: Customer Interest Interior - Rear Hatch Trim Panel Loose/Falls OFF 03-050 August 26, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Element - ALL Rear Hatch Trim Panel Is Loose or Falls Off SYMPTOM The rear hatch trim panel is loose or falls off. PROBABLE CAUSE The retaining clips do not have enough grip. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the three upper clips on the panel with new clips. PARTS INFORMATION Pillar Clip Trim (3 required): P/N 91560-884-A11, H/C 5454970 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 857108 Flat Rate Time: 0.2 hour Failed Part: P/N 91560-584-A01 H/C 5454962 Defect Code: 011 Contention Code: A02 Template ID: 03-050A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration and get a decision before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Open the hatch then remove the screw clip and the pull pocket (see page 20-63 of the 2003 Element Service Manual). 2. Remove the trim panel assembly by pulling down from one side to the other making sure you do not damage the panel or the clips. Page 6421 4. Clean and dry the seat belt guide, then put a piece of teflon tape on the inside. Use the teflon tape specified in this service bulletin; other brands or types of tape may eventually peel off and restrict seat belt movement. 5. Install the seat belt guide and the door panel. 6. Test the belt for proper retraction by pulling the latch plate down to the floor of the vehicle and then releasing it. The belt should retract fully in four seconds or less. Disclaimer Component Locations Alarm Module: Component Locations 36. In Steering Column Cover 138. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 5576 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 6109 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 8075 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the driver's dashboard side lid (six clips). 2. Tilt the steering column down. Remove the driver's dashboard middle panel (one screw, nine clips). 3. Place a clean shop towel under the gauge assembly to keep from scratching the steering column or dashboard. 4. Remove the four mounting screws from the gauge assembly. 5. Unplug the gauge assembly 30P and 16P connectors. Remove the gauge assembly. 6. Plug the connectors into the new gauge assembly, and install it in the dashboard. Page 8569 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 6005 23. A/C Condenser Fan Motor (EX; Canada: DX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 6399 A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection 07-030 October 12, 2007 Applies To: ALL Vehicles With Conventional A/C Compressors A/C Leak Detection (Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks) The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find. When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up with the OPTIMAX Jr. This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector. The kit contains: ^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3 standard AA batteries) ^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels ^ TRP3887, R-134a Universal Connect Set(TM) ^ TRP120884, GLO-AWAY(TM) dye cleaner ^ TRP9940, fluorescence-enhancing glasses ^ TRP1143, (1) empty Tracer-Stick dye capsule ORDERING INFO *One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program, Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.* NOTICE ^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body. ^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure. ^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure. USING THE OPTIMAX JR. Specifications Engine Assembly Page 6279 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 3569 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3RD Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the connector from the 3rd clutch pressure switch (A). 2. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 3. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. Page 7192 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Page 2285 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions: - Replace the ECM/PCM or disconnect its connector. - Reset the ECM/PCM. NOTE: Erasing DTCs with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure. Procedure: 1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.,) are off. 2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 °F (90 °C). 3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes. Page 7362 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Specifications Engine Assembly Page 180 Relay Box: Diagrams 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 444 118. Brake Pedal Position Switch SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components Air-bags The SRS is a safety device which, when used with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and front passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including safing sensor and impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C), the front passenger's airbag (D), seat belt tensioners (1), seat belt buckle tensioners (J), and front impact sensors (K). Since the driver's and front passenger's airbags use the same sensors, both normally inflate at the same time. However, it is possible for only one airbag to inflate. This can occur when the severity of a collision is at the margin, or threshold, that determines whether or not the airbags will deploy. In such cases, the seat belt will provide sufficient protection, and the supplemental protection offered by the airbag would be minimal. Side Airbags The side airbags (E) are in each front seat-back. They help protect the upper torso of the driver or front seat passenger during a moderate to severe side impact. Side impact sensors (F) in each door sill and in the SRS unit detect such an impact and instantly inflate the driver's or the passenger's side airbag. Only one side airbag will deploy during a side impact. If the impact is on the passenger's side, the passenger's side airbag will deploy even if there is no passenger. Seat Belt and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners The seat belt and seat belt buckle tensioners are linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioners instantly retract the belt and buckle firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. OPDS The side airbag system also includes an occupant position detection system (OPDS). This system consists of sensors (G) and a OPDS unit (H) in the front passenger's seat-back. The OPDS unit sends occupant height and position data to the SRS unit. If the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger is of small stature (for example, a child) and the front passenger is leaning into the side airbag deployment path, the SRS unit will automatically disable the passenger's side airbag. The SRS unit will also disable the airbag when the OPDS detects certain objects on the seat. When the side airbag is disabled, the side airbag cutoff indicator on the instrument panel alerts the driver that the passenger's side airbag will not deploy in a side impact. When the object is removed, or the passenger sits upright, the side airbag cutoff indicator will go off after a few seconds, alerting the driver that the passenger's side airbag will deploy in a side impact. Page 2534 ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. Page 5116 1. Carefully pry the accessory power socket (A) out from the right rear side trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the socket. 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G 451, G551). - an open in the wire. - blown No. 18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - blown No. 2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - faulty rear accessory power socket relay. Page 1924 Idle Speed: Testing and Inspection Idle Speed Inspection NOTE: - Leave the idle air control (IAC) valve connected. - Before checking the idle speed, check these items: - The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on. - Ignition timing - Spark plugs - Air cleaner - PCV system - Pull the parking brake lever up. 1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector. 2. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard. 3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed with no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off. 5. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with the heater fan switch on HI and air conditioner on, then check the idle speed. NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. If the idle is still out of specification, go to the Symptom Troubleshooting Index. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 6. Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve connector. Stereo Amplifier Connector Stereo Amplifier Connector Replacement - EX Model Page 86 141. Low Beam Cut And DRL Relays (Canada) Page 7850 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the connector from the 2nd clutch pressure switch (A). 3. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 4. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. 5. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 7120 7. With a putty knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in.) on the bonding surface around the entire rear window opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. - Remove the fasteners from the tailgate. 8. Clean the tailgate bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface. 9. If the old rear window is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive and rubber dam from the rear window. Clean the inside face and the edge of the rear window with alcohol where new adhesive is to be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease. 10. Attach the upper corner fasteners (A) and lower corner fasteners (B) with adhesive tape. Attach the upper rubber dam (C) and lower rubber dam (D) with adhesive tape to the inside surface of the rear window (E) as shown: Be sure the fasteners and rubber dams line up with alignment marks (F). - Be careful not to touch the rear window where adhesive will be applied. Locations Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 286 142. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 & 2 Page 3994 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 5490 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 6818 Service Specifications Connecting Rod: Specifications Service Specifications Connecting rod Pin-to-rod clearance Standard or New .......................................................................................................................................... 0.005 0.015 mm (0.0002 - 0.0006 inch) Service Limit ................................................................................... ........................................................................................ 0.02 mm (0.0008 inch) Small-end bore diameter Standard or New ...................................................................................................................................... 21.970 21.976 mm (0.8650 - 0.8652 inch) Large-end bore diameter Standard or New .................................................................................................................................. ........................................ 51.0 mm (2.01 inch) End play installed on crankshaft Standard or New .................................................................................................................................................. 0.15 0.35 mm (0.006 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... .................................................................................... 0.40 mm (0.016 inch) Locations Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations Page 3590 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 2170 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 6919 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 4739 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Front Suspension Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement Special Tools Required Hub disassembly tool 07GAF-SD40100 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 - Driver 07749-0010000 - Support base 07965-SD90100 - Ball joint thread protector 07AAF-SDAA100 Knuckle and Hub Replacement 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 2356 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 7916 35. Clutch Pedal Position Switch (M/T: EX, '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 7291 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to the impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit, respectively, will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: Seat Belt Tensioners and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners 1. A front impact sensor must activate and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the tensioners. 3. The charges must ignite and deploy the tensioners. Driver's and Front Passenger's Airbag(s) 1. A front impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals, and depending on the severity of the collision and whether the seat belt buckle switch is ON or OFF, it sends the appropriate signals to the airbag inflator(s). 3. The inflators that received signals must ignite and deploy the airbags. Side Airbag(s) 1. Aside impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the side airbag inflator(s). However, the microprocessor turns off the signals to the front passenger's side airbag if the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger's head is in the deployment path of the side airbag. 3. The inflator that received the signal must ignite and deploy the side airbag. Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the system is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after 6 seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the system. The system must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the SRS unit memory stores a DTC that relates to the cause of the malfunction, and the unit is connected to the data link circuit. This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS when it is connected to the data link connector (DLC). NOTE: If the battery negative cable is disconnected during troubleshooting, do the following: Before you disconnect the battery: Page 6440 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 7537 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Locations Oxygen Sensor Relay: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 1210 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 3638 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 94. Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) 102. Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) Page 4675 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 94. Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) 102. Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) Front Disc Brake Rotor Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection Front Disc Brake Rotor Front Brake Disc Inspection Runout 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the brake pads. 3. Inspect the disc surface for damage and cracks. Clean the disc thoroughly, and remove all rust. 4. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque to hold the brake disc securely against the hub. 5. Set up the dial gauge against the brake disc as shown, and measure the runout at 10 mm (0.4 inch) from the outer edge of the disc. Brake Disc Runout: Service Limit: 0.10 mm (0.004 inch) 6. If the disc is beyond the service limit, refinish the brake disc. Max. Refinish Limit: 21.0 mm (0.83 inch) NOTE: ^ If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for refinishing, replace it. ^ A new disc should be refinished if its runout is greater then 0.10 mm (0.004 inch). Thickness and Parallelism 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the brake pads. 3. Using a micrometer, measure disc thickness at eight points, approximately 45° apart and 10 mm (0.4 inch) in from the outer edge of the disc. Brake Disc Thickness: Standard: 23.0 mm (0.91 inch) Max. Refinishing Limit: 21.0 mm (0.83 inch) Brake Disc Parallelism: 0.015 mm (0.0006 inch) max. NOTE: This is the maximum allowable difference between the thickness measurements. 4. If the smallest measurement is less than the max. Refinishing limit, replace the brake disc. 5. If the disc is beyond the service limit for parallelism, refinish the brake disc with an on-car brake lathe. The Kwik-Lathe produced by Kwik-way Manufacturing Co. and the "Front Brake Disc Lathe" offered by Snap-on Tools Co. are approved for this operation. Page 4741 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 8108 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Rear Window Defogger Component Location Index Page 4294 3. Remove the snap ring (A) and the splash guard (B) from the knuckle (C). 4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (c), a steel plate (D), the special tool, and a press. NOTE: (with ABS): Install the wheel bearing with the magnetic encoder (E) (brown color) toward the inside of the knuckle. - Remove any oil, grease, dust metal debris, or other foreign material from the encoder surface. - Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. - Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing. Page 1838 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 5574 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 3081 132. Transmission Housing (M/T) Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid valve A terminal. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve moves. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A body. Page 5224 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. Page 5010 34. Clutch Interlock Switch (M/T) Page 4868 1. Apply Molykote 44 MA grease to the sliding surface of the pivot pin (A), and insert the pin into the rearward brake shoe (B). 2. Install the parking brake lever (C) and wave washer (D) on the pivot pin, and secure with a new U-clip (E). Install the wave washer with its convex side facing out. Pinch the U-clip securely to prevent the pivot pin from coming out of the brake shoe. 3. Connect the parking brake cable (A) to the parking brake lever (B). Apply silicone grease to the cable contact surface (C) on the backing plate. 4. Apply Molykote 44 MA grease to the shoe ends and connecting rod ends (A), sliding surfaces (B), and opposite edges of the parking brake shoe (C) as shown. Wipe off any excess. Do not get grease on the brake linings. Page 8187 121. Right Side Of Engine Page 7444 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to four transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode. 3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted. 4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters. 5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Civic, 03-04 Accord, Element, Pilot 1999-00 Civic Value Package with factory-installed keyless entry system 1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system Page 8347 4. Make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it. Page 7545 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 4163 6. When reassembling the valve body, align the hole in the regulator spring cap with the hole in the valve body, then press the spring cap into the valve body, and tighten the stop bolt. Servo Body Disassembly, Inspection, and Reassembly 1. Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all passages. 2. Inspect the valve body for scoring and damage. 3. Check the CPB valve for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, refer to valve body repair. 4. Do not hold the shift solenoid valve connector to remove and install it. Be sure to hold the shift solenoid valve body. When installing the shift solenoid valves, refer to Shift Solenoid Valves Installation. 5. Coat all parts with ATF during assembly. Page 6444 10. Install the seat belt in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Apply liquid thread lock to the anchor bolts before reinstallation. - Check that the retractor locking mechanism functions. - Assemble the washers, collar, and bushing on the upper and lower anchor bolts as shown. - If the seat belt tensioner has been deployed, replace the front seat belt protector with a new one. - Before installing the anchor bolts, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt. - Make sure the seat belt tensioner connector is plugged in properly. - Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. - Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. Front Seat Belt Buckle Front Seat Belt Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. NOTE: Check the front seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to damage them during removal and installation. Seat Belt Buckle 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Remove the front seat. Page 6931 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Service and Repair Headlamp Bulb: Service and Repair Bulb Replacement Headlight: 1. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the headlight. 2. Remove the rubber cover (B). 3. Pull the retaining spring (C) away from the bulb (D), then remove the bulb. 4. Install a new bulb in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the notches in the bulb align with the tabs in the headlight. Page 2878 Engine Control Module: Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 8605 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 7955 136. Under Left Side Of Dash (M/T) Page 3762 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid B and C in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B, C and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance between the solenoid valve B terminals No. 1 and No. 2, and measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance between the solenoid valve C terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance of either of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. Page 1570 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 31 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 735 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Page 5579 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502 Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. Page 7043 5. Push down and hold the power window switch. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 7. Release the powerwindow switch. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps. 8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep holding the switch for 1 second. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2. SYMPTOM 2 The windows are slow to open. PROBABLE CAUSE The run channel is damaged or dirty. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting. 1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle: ^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required. ^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window regulator speed. ^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator. ^ If the speed is faster without the glass, go to step 2. NOTE: When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the full up position because damage can occur to the regulator. 2. Inspect the visible portion of the run channel for damage. Page 3615 Page 7401 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 3160 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Service and Repair VTEC Solenoid Valve Removal/Installation VTEC Solenoid Valve Removal/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve connector (A) and the VTEC oil pressure switch connector (B). 2. Remove the bolts (C). 3. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve (D). 4. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new solenoid valve filter (E). Page 6141 Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications Refrigerant type ................................................................................................................................... ................................................ HFC-134a (R-134a) Lubricant type: DENSO: ND-OIL8 (P/N 38897-PR7-A01AH or 38899-PR7-A01) Locations Impact Sensor: Locations SRS Component Location Index Page 4003 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 1. 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) 2. 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) Page 908 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). Page 5449 197. C106 (Junction Connector) Page 8490 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 7508 74. Driver's Door 77. Driver's Door Campaign - Vehicle Warranty Mileage Extension Odometer: Recalls Campaign - Vehicle Warranty Mileage Extension 06-085 May 9, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage (Supersedes 06-085, dated January 22, 2008, to update the information marked by asterisks) BACKGROUND On December 29, 2007, a federal court provided final approval of the settlement of a class action lawsuit alleging that the odometers on certain 2002 through 2006 Honda models, and some 2007 Fit models, were overstating mileage. As part of the settlement, American Honda is extending the mileage-based coverage period of all warranties, Honda Care Service Contracts, and Honda Certified Used Vehicles by 5 percent on the above referenced vehicles. The time limits for all warranties are unchanged. VEHICLES AFFECTED The vehicles affected by this settlement include certain 2002 through 2006 Honda models and some 2007 Fit models purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006. The affected region is the United States (including the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico, and the U.S. Virgin Islands). Affected vehicles registered to customers with a military or a NATO address are also included in this settlement. The most effective way to check a vehicle's warranty coverage is by a VIN status inquiry. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION American Honda notified affected customers by mail or publication. The notices were sent to original registered purchasers, informing them of the terms of the settlement. Notice was also published in a national newspaper. To view the content of the mailed notice, as well as other documents regarding the settlement, or for additional information, please refer to these sources: Website: www.odosettlementinfo.com Information Center: (888) 888-3082 CORRECTIVE ACTION *On affected vehicles, the settlement requires you to honor a 5 percent increase in the mileage coverage period for all warranties, all Honda Certified Used Vehicles, and those Honda Care Service Contracts purchased only by the original owners.* WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Use the chart as a reference for converting most standard warranty mileage limits to the extended mileage coverage. Use the chart as a reference to all service bulletins affected by the extended mileage coverage. In addition to the 5 percent mileage increase in warranty coverage, any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill Page 5134 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Testing and Inspection Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection VTEC Rocker Arms Test Special Tools Required Air Pressure regulator 07AAJ-PNAA100 - VTEC air adapter 07ZAJ-PNM100 - VTEC air stopper 07ZAJ-PNAA200 - Air joint adapter 07ZAJ-PNAA300 1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn OFF the ignition switch. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC). 4. Verify that the intake primary rocker arm (A) moves independently of the intake secondary rocker arm (B). - If the intake primary rocker arm does not move, remove the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly and check that the pistons in the secondary and primary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and test. - If the intake primary rocker arm moves freely, go to step 5. 5. Repeat step 4 on the remaining intake primary rocker arms with each piston at TDC. When all the primary rocker arms pass the test, go to step 6. 6. Inspect the valve clearance. 7. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4 kgf/cm2, 57 psi). 8. Remove the sealing bolt (A) from the relief hole, and install the VTEC air stopper (B). 9. Remove the No. 2 and No. 3 camshaft holder bolts, and install the VTEC air adapters (C) finger-tight. 10. Connect the air joint adapter (D) and air pressure regulator (E). 11. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure. Specified air pressure: 290 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2, 42 psi) NOTE: If the synchronizing piston does not move after applying air pressure, move the primary or secondary rocker arm up and down manually by rotating the crankshaft clockwise. Page 3863 24. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 25. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. 26. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 27. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 28. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 29. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 30. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 5758 Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Hub disassembly tool 07GAF-SD40100 ^ Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 ^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Support base 07965-SD90100 ^ Ball joint thread protector 07AAF-SDAA100 Knuckle and Hub Replacement 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 6804 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 119 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3747 NOTE: Update the systems one at a time. 7. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are for the vehicle you are updating, then click on the check mark. 8. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HIM. Page 5698 Note these items during disassembly: ^ Inspect the ball bearing (c) by rotating the outer race slowly. If there is any excessive play, replace the pinion shaft and sleeve as an assembly. ^ The pinion shaft and sleeve are a precise fit; do not intermix old and new pinion shafts and sleeves. 32. Press the valve oil seal (A) and roller bearing (B) out of the valve housing using a hydraulic press and special tool. Reassembly 33. Apply vinyl tape (A) to the stepped portion of the pinion shaft, and coat the surface of the vinyl tape with the power steering fluid. 34. Install the wave washer (B). Coat the inside surface of the new valve oil seal (C) with power steering fluid, and install the seal with its grooved side facing opposite the bearing, then slide it over the pinion shaft, being careful not to damage its sealing lip (D). Remove the vinyl tape. 35. Install the special tool over the pinion, and coat the surface of the tool with power steering fluid. Slip the new O-ring (A) and new valve seal ring (B) over the special tool, and expand them. 36. Fit the O-ring in the groove of the pinion shaft. Then slide the valve seal ring over the shaft and in the groove on the pinion shaft. Page 8101 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 1438 210. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Locations Locations Mirrors - Component Location Index Specifications Firing Order: Specifications Firing Order ......................................................................................................................................... ..................................................................... 1-3-4-2 Page 408 74. Driver's Door 77. Driver's Door Page 4772 Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Rear Removal and Installation Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Replacement 1. Hold the pins (A) with a wrench, being careful not to damage the pin boots. Remove the caliper bolts (B), and remove the caliper (C) from the caliper bracket. 2. Remove the pad shims (A) and pads (B). 3. Remove the pad retainers (A). Page 3480 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 5271 Relay Box: Diagrams 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 182 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6761 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Page 2492 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 3396 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM/PCM. The TP sensor is not available separately from the throttle body. Page 407 Doors - Component Location Index - Front Door Part 2 Page 6715 5. Click Warranty Audio Order to view the Warranty Audio Order form. 6. Enter the VIN and the mileage, then click the Submit button to view the Warranty Audio Order form. Use the completed Audio/Navigation/RES Worksheet to help you answer the questions on the Warranty Audio Order form. Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make sure the information is complete (17-digit VIN, etc.). This information is critical to the remanufacturing process. Screen # 2 of the form contains the problem description, condition information, and shared functions. Fill this section out with as much information as possible. Select one part number from the list provided, then click Submit. It is your responsibility to ensure the correct part number is selected based on color and application information. Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving With the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve fuel pressure from the system by stopping the fuel pump with the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). 1. Remove the fuel fill Gap. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. From the inspection menu of the Honda PGM Tester or HDS, select Fuel Pump OFF, start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. NOTE: Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the ECM/PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump. - A DTC or a temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them as needed. 5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 6. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 7. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean if it needed. 8. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). Page 2279 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 1 PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing Control Module: Service and Repair PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the PCM only if the PCM does not have the latest software loaded. Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the PCM can be damaged. Page 1432 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2888 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5210 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4951 Starting System Component Location Index Page 6498 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 8277 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 8205 89. Right Rear Door 90. Right Rear Door Service and Repair Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Brake System Bleeding NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required. ^ Do not reuse the drained fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 brake fluid. Non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid. 1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (A). 2. Slide a piece of clear plastic hose over the bleed screw, and submerge the other end in a container of new brake fluid. 3. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 4. Loosen the left-front brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely. 5. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid. Page 1569 80. VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Page 7829 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. Service and Repair Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley: Service and Repair Crankshaft Pulley Removal and Installation Special Tools Required Holder handle 07JAB-001020B - Holder attachment, 50 mm 07NAB-001040A - Socket, 19 mm 07JAA-001020A or a commercially available 19 mm socket Removal 1. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Remove the drive belt. 4. Hold the pulley with holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B). 5. Remove the bolt with a 19 mm socket (C) and breaker bar, then remove the crankshaft pulley. Installation 1. Clean the crankshaft pulley (A), crankshaft (B), bolt (C), and washer (D). Lubricate with the new engine oil as shown. 2. Install the crankshaft pulley, and hold the pulley with holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B). 3. Tighten the bolt to 49 Nm (5.0 kgf-m, 36 ft. lbs.) with a torque wrench and 19 mm socket (C). Do not use an impact wrench. 4. Tighten the pulley bolt an additional 90°. 5. Install the drive belt. 6. Install the splash shield. 7. Install the right front wheel. Page 8614 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 5640 28. Install the cam ring (A) by aligning the slot (B) with the slot (C) in the outer case. 29. Insert the roll pin (D) into the slots between the cam ring and outer case, then push the roll pin into the set hole (E). 30. Install the rotor (A) in the cam ring (B). 31. Set the 11 vanes (c) in the grooves in the rotor. Make sure that the round ends (D) of the vanes are in contact with the sliding surface of the cam ring. 32. Place the side plate (A) on the cam ring, and align the roll pin set hole (B) with the roll pin (C). 33. Coat the new O-ring (D) with the power steering fluid, then position it into the groove on the side plate. Page 8091 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 8409 219. Fog Light Relay (Honda Accessory) Page 3691 7. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are for the vehicle you are updating, then click on the check mark. 8. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600. 9. Click on the check mark to begin the control uniti module update. NOTE: To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update. 10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to ON (II). 11. Once the software verifies that the control uniti mod ule has been successfully updated, click on Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on No to exit the update program. GNA600 Updating in Storage Mode 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading instructions, refer to the ISIS publication Installation Instructions for HDS PC Software. Page 8372 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 3771 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Connect the battery positive terminal to O/D switch/ shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 3, and connect the battery negative terminal to connector terminal No. 4. Do not connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal No. 4 or you will damage the diode inside the solenoid. 13. Check that the shift lever can be moved from the P position. Release the battery terminals, move the shift lever back to the P, and make sure it locks. 14. If the shift lock solenoid works properly, connect the connector, and install the removed parts. If the shift lock solenoid is faulty, go to step 15, and replace the shift lock solenoid. 15. Remove the shift lever assembly. Page 3380 Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 6615 Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide 90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL 1990-93 Accord (2-door and 4-door) with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1993 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: Page 8666 Horn Component Location Index Page 7072 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 8321 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 1580 13. Right Side Of Engine Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Emissions - DTC P1457 Possible Clogged Line Evaporative Emissions Hose: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - DTC P1457 Possible Clogged Line SOURCE: Honda Service News July 2004 TITLE: Got DTC P1457? Check for a Clogged EVAP Canister Purge Line. APPLIES TO: 2002-03 CR-V SERVICE TIP: Got a DTC P1457 [EVAP control system leakage (EVAP canister system)]? The problem could be a clogged EVAP canister purge line. If your customer was out four-wheeling it, there's a good possibility that mud, sand, or debris could have been sucked into the line, especially if the EVAP canister got damaged or ripped from the vehicle or if the vehicle was plowing through some deep, standing water. A clogged EVAP canister purge line can delay the supply of vacuum to the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor. If the FTP sensor reacts sluggishly, the voltage won't drop down fast enough, and the ECM/PCM will set a DTC P1457 and maybe a test ID (TID) 2D. To check for a clogged EVAP canister purge line, connect the HDS with version 1.012.023 or later software to the 16P DLC, and run the EVAP System Function Test. If the EVAP system fails the test, you'll need to troubleshoot and repair the problem. If the EVAP system passes the test, then follow these steps to check for a clog in the purge line from the EVAP canister to the engine: 1. Disconnect the purge hose at the EVAP canister, and attach a vacuum gauge to the hose. 2. Start the engine, and activate the purge control valve by back-probing and grounding the YEL/BLU wire. Watch the vacuum gauge. - If the gauge needle instantly reads the manifold vacuum, then the purge valve is clear. Reconnect the purge hose to the EVAP canister, and look for other possible causes. - If the gauge needle doesn't instantly read the manifold vacuum, then the purge control valve could be clogged. Go to step 3. 3. Disconnect the hose between the EVAP test port and the purge control valve. Attach a vacuum gauge to the test port end of the hose. 4. Activate the purge control valve by backprobing and grounding the YEL/BLU wire. Watch the vacuum gauge. - If the gauge needle instantly reads the manifold vacuum, then clean or replace the EVAP test port, the purge line to the rear of the vehicle, or both. - If the gauge needle doesn't instantly read the manifold vacuum, then look for a clogged purge control valve port in the intake manifold. If the port is clear, then replace the purge control valve, and retest. Page 4893 Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair ABS Modulator-Control Unit Removal and Installation NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation. ^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or equivalent material. Removal 1. Push in the locking tab (A) and pull up the lock (B) of the ABS control unit 47P connector (C), and the connector disconnects itself. 2. Disconnect the six brake lines. 3. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit/bracket (D/E) from the body. 4. Remove the two 6 mm shoulder bolts and 6 mm bolt from the bracket, then remove the ABS modulator-control unit from the bracket. Installation 1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit on the bracket, then tighten the two 6 mm shoulder bolts and 6 mm bolt. 2. Install the ABS modulator-control unit bracket on the body. 3. Align the connecting surface of the ABS control unit 47P connector. Page 1854 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7092 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. Page 4753 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 2685 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 583 82. Left Rear Door (Right Similar) Page 4974 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 4375 18. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 19. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 20. Remove the O/D switch harness clamp from the shift lever bracket and from the harness, and pull the O/D switch harness out to remove the shift lever assembly. 21. Insert the new O/D switch harness (A) into the shift lever ring (B), and route the harness through the groove (C) of the shift lever (D) into the hole (E). Do not pinch the harness. 22. Wind the O/D switch harness (A) one turn around the clamp (B) on the bottom of the shift lever. 23. Install the harness clamp (C) at the reference tape (D) on the harness, then install the clamp in the hole (E) of the shift lever bracket (F). Page 771 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire. Page 1887 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1. Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.). If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step 7. 7. Replace the VTC valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat a new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 3591 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 5708 87. Retighten the 12 mm flange bolts (A) to specified torque values. 88. After tightening the 12 mm flange bolts, install a new stop washer (B) over one of the bolt heads (C). Be sure the tabs (D) of the stop washer are aligned with the flat surfaces (E) of the bolt head. 89. Clean off any grease or contamination from the boot installation grooves around on the housing. 90. Expand boot A by removing the vinyl tape, and fit the boot ends (B) in the installation grooves on the cylinder housing. 91. Close the ear portion (A) of the bands (B) with a commercially available pincers, Oetiker 1098 or equivalent (C). Page 4583 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Substitute the PCM How to Substitute the PCM 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 4. Remove the glove box stops, then open the glove box. 5. Remove the 20P harness connector (A) from its bracket, and disconnect PCM connectors. 6. Disconnect all PCM connectors. 7. Remove the relays from the glove box frame. 8. Loosen the PCM mounting nut (B) on the lower right of the PCM, and remove the mounting bolt (C) and nut (D) on the left of the PCM. 9. Lift the PCM up to clear the mounting nut on the lower right of the PCM, then pull out the PCM (E). 10. Install a known-good PCM. 11. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this will allow you to start the engine. 12. After completing your test, reinstall the original PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS again. Page 386 Power Window Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 55 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 6287 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Specifications Page 1949 Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection Spark Plug Inspection 1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Plug heat range too hot - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Plug heat range too cold - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coils 2. Do not adjust the gap (A) of iridium tip plugs; replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Page 2237 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 7484 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 88-91 Prelude With Dealer-Installed Security System 1988-91 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Page 5359 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 3141 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Service and Repair VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is stuck or clogged, replace it, then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1 Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.) If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step?. Page 2182 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Radiator Fan Switch Replacement 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector (A), then remove the radiator fan switch (B). 4. Install the radiator fan switch with a new O-ring (c). 5. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Service and Repair Front Crankshaft Seal: Service and Repair Chain Case Oil Seal Installation Special Tools Required Driver 07749-0010000 Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400 1. Use the special tools to drive a new oil seal squarely into the chain case to the specified installed height. 2. Measure the distance between the chain case surface and oil seal. Oil Seal Installed Height: 33.0 - 33.7 mm (1.30 - 1.33 inch) Service and Repair Sunroof / Moonroof Hinge: Service and Repair Glass Bracket Replacement 1. Remove the skylight. 2. To prevent damage to the skylight, place it on a work area with a protective covering. 3. Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the screws and shim (A), then remove the glass bracket (B). 4. Install the bracket in the reverse order of removal. Page 95 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 3669 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Use the HDS to clear DTC P0606. 2. Make sure you have the latest iN CD (September '04 or later) loaded into your dealership's master server. If not, load the software using the instructions that come with the CD. 3. Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM); refer to S/B 01-023, Using the Honda Interface Module to Update Control Units/Modules. NOTE: If the ECM/PCM in the vehicle already has the correct software update, refer to the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting. 4. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle fully closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes. Disclaimer Locations Wiper Control Module: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Door, Roof And Seat Page 2741 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 5794 2. Line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the corners of the jack base, then attach the adapter to the jack base with the bolts that came with the jack. Tighten all of the bolts securely. 3. Raise the jack to vehicle height. 4. With the rear bar of the adapter spanning the sides of the subframe, route the adapter's strap around the front of the subframe. Pull the strap as tightly as possible, insert the pin through the appropriate loop, then tighten the wing nut. 5. With all of the vehicle parts properly supported or removed (see Engine or Transmission Removal in the appropriate service manual), carefully lower the subframe using the controls on the jack. Disclaimer Page 67 Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 179 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 1044 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 3142 7. Replace the VTC oil control solenoid valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat the new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 2509 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter Noise Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter Noise SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Catalytic Converter Noise? Check the Heat Shield APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that buzzes or rattles, and you suspect the catalytic converter is the culprit? Before you start replacing the converter, first check the heat shield area. If there any stones or debris trapped inside, they can cause buzzing or rattling. Page 6649 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Locations Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 19. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 6764 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 445 Braking Sensor/Switch: Adjustments Brake Pedal and Brake Pedal Position Switch Adjustment Pedal Height 1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer touching the brake pedal. 2. Lift up the carpet. At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height (B) from the middle of the pedal pad (C). Standard Pedal Height (with carpet removed): M/T: 178 mm (7 inch) A/T: 180 mm (7 3/32 inch) 3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod in or out with pliers until the standard pedal height from the floor is reached. After adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed. Page 377 ^ If the run channel is not pinched, continue with normal troubleshooting. Page 1840 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 8599 Marker Lamp: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) Oxygen Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) 03-027 May 6, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Accord L4 2-door- From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A020275 2003 Accord L4 4-door- From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A071758 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C073601 2003 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1...3L006131 2003 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...3L000001 thru 5J6YH2...3L014546 MIL Comes On With DTC P2A00 (P2900) SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P2A00 (P2900)* [Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range Performance Problem]. * If you use the PGM Tester to retrieve codes, you may see DTC P2900; it's the same as DTC P2A00. PROBABLE CAUSE The air fuel ratio sensor is faulty. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for DTC P2A00 (P2900). If P2A00 (P2900) is present, replace the air fuel ratio sensor, and clear the DTC. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 36531-RAA-A01 H/C 7136187 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C99 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. PARTS INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or the PGM Tester to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector), and check for DTCs. Page 4521 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Service and Repair Body Emblem: Service and Repair Emblem Replacement NOTE: When removing the emblems, take care not to scratch the body. Use dental floss to double-sided type. 1. To remove the front "H" emblem, remove the front bumper. 2. Clean the body surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface. 3. Apply the emblems where shown. When installing the LEV emblem on the inside surface of the quarter glass, align the bottom of the application tape with the black ceramic, then press the emblem into place, and remove the application tape. Page 5420 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7437 Page 3246 ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. Page 4100 22. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 23. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 24. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 25. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 2131 Page 8223 Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Switch Test NOTE: For more key-in beeper information, refer to the circuit diagram and input test. When the ignition key is in the ignition switch, the key-in beeper circuit of the multiplex control unit senses ground through the closed ignition key switch. When you open the driver's door, the beeper circuit senses ground through the closed door switch. When both switches are closed (driver's door and ignition), the key-in beeper in the gauge assembly is activated. 1. Remove the steering column upper and lower covers. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be continuity with the key in the ignition switch. - There should be no continuity with the key removed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the steering lock assembly. Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 4842 Brake Hose/Line: Service and Repair Brake Hose Replacement NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ To prevent dripping, cover disconnected line joints with rags or shop towels. ^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles. ^ Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do so. 1. Replace the brake hose (A) if the hose is twisted, cracked, or if it leaks. 2. Disconnect the brake hose from the brake line (B) using a 10 mm flare nut wrench (C). 3. Remove the flange bolt (A), and remove the brake hose brackets from the damper. 4. Remove and discard the hose clip (B). 5. Remove the banjo bolt (C), and remove the brake hose from the caliper. 6. Install the brake hose bracket (A) on the damper with the flange bolt (B) first, then connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo bolt (C) and new sealing washers (D). Page 5770 10. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm (A) to support it. NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage any suspension components. 11. Remove the flange bolt, and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle. 12. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A) and adjusting cam (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), adjusting cam, and adjusting bolt. Discard the self-locking nut. 13. Remove the flange bolt (D). 14. Remove the knuckle (A) while pushing in the driveshaft and holding the driveshaft outboard joint (B) (4WD only). 15. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: ^ First install all the suspension components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then place a floor jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening the bolts and nuts to the specified torque values. ^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and adjusting cam with the marked positions when tightening. ^ Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly. ^ Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. ^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. ^ Before installing the brake disc/drum, clean the mating surfaces of the rear hub and the inside of the brake disc/drum. ^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc/drum and the inside of the wheel. ^ Check the rear wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 5044 8. Connect the starter to the battery as described in the diagram, and confirm that the motor turns and keeps rotating. 9. If the electric current and motor speed meet the specifications when the battery voltage is at 11 V, the starter is working properly. Specifications: Electric current: 90 A or less Motor speed: 2,000 rpm or more A/T 1. Connect the battery to the starter as shown using as heavy a wire as possible (preferably equivalent to the wire used for the vehicle). To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds. 2. Connect the battery as shown. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly. 3. Disconnect the battery from the body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly. 4. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise. M/T - Clutch Pedal Squeak/Twang or Notchy Feel Clutch Master Cylinder: Customer Interest M/T - Clutch Pedal Squeak/Twang or Notchy Feel 02-002 January 11, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Squeak at the Clutch Pedal (Supersedes 02-002, dated September 21, 2004) SYMPTOM A squeak, a twang, or a notchy feel when the clutch pedal is pressed. PROBABLE CAUSE The clutch master cylinder spring is rubbing on the outer diameter of the piston when the pedal is pressed, or the master cylinder quick connect is moving. Page 5092 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 7105 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 4403 CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the windshield and, if needed, remove the high spots on the windshield flange (see VEHICLES AFFECTED). PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 831120 Flat Rate Time: 1.7 hours Failed Part: P/N 04731-SCV-A00 H/C 7310774 Defect Code: 5EM00 Symptom Code: Q2500 Template ID: 06-084A Skill Level: Repair Technician DIAGNOSIS The only diagnosis is to ensure that the windshield crack(s) were not the obvious result of a large object (such as a rock or a baseball) hitting the glass. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the windshield: ^ Refer to pages 20-37 and 20-38 of the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, steps 1 thru 9, or ^ Online, enter keyword WINDSHIELD, select Windshield Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 9. 2. Check to see if the VIN is within the range listed under VEHICLES AFFECTED. ^ If the VIN is within the listed range, go to step 3. ^ If the VIN is not within the listed range, go to step 5. Page 8118 8. Remove the locknut (A) and the fuel pump sending assembly. 9. Remove the fuel filter (B), the fuel gauge sending unit (C), the case (D), the wire harness (E), and the fuel pressure regulator (F). 10. When connecting the fuel pump assembly, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (H). 11. Check these items before installing the fuel tank unit. - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (I) are firmly locked into place. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. 12. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (J) and new O-rings (K). When installing the fuel tank unit, align the marks (L) on the unit (M) and the fuel tank (N). Page 3961 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Specifications Piston Ring: Specifications Piston Ring groove width Top Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 1.230 - 1.240 mm (0.0484 - 0.0488 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. ........................................................................ 1.26 mm (0.0450 inch) Second Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 1.240 - 1.250 mm (0.0488 - 0.0492 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. ........................................................................ 1.270 mm (0.050 inch) Oil Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 2.005 - 2.025 mm (0.0789 - 0.0797 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. .......................................................................... 2.05 mm (0.081 inch) Piston ring Ring-to-groove clearance Top Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 0.045 - 0.070 mm (0.0018 - 0.0028 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. .......................................................................... 0.13 mm (0.005 inch) Second Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 0.050 - 0.075 mm (0.0020 - 0.0030 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. .......................................................................... 0.13 mm (0.005 inch) Ring end gap Top Standard or New ............................................................................................................................................ 0.20 0.35 mm (0.008 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... .............................................................................. 0.60 mm (0.024 inch) Second Standard or New ............................................................................................................................................ 0.40 0.55 mm (0.016 - 0.022 inch) Service limit .......................................................................................... ............................................................................... 0.70 mm (0.028 inch) Oil Standard or new ............................................................................................................................................ 0.20 0.70 mm (0.008 - 0.028 inch) Service Limit ......................................................................................... .............................................................................. 0.80 mm (0.031 inch) Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel Pressure ............................................................................................................................................... 330 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 - 55 psi) Page 3156 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Testing and Inspection VTEC Solenoid Valve Test VTEC Solenoid Valve Inspection 1. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve connector and the VTEC oil pressure switch connector. 2. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly from the cylinder head assembly. 3. Measure resistance between VTEC solenoid valve 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2. 4. If the resistance is within specification, check the solenoid valve filter (A) for clogging. If it is clogged, replace the solenoid valve filter, the engine oil filter, and the engine oil. Diagnostic Aids Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 827 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Diagram Information and Instructions Cellular Phone: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 2848 67. Behind Glove Box Page 5002 11. Drive out the front bearing with a brass drift and hammer. 12. With a hammer and special tools, install a new front bearing in the drive end housing. Alternator Brush Inspection 13. Measure the length of both brushes (A) with vernier calipers (B). - If either brush is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. - If brush length is OK, go to step 14. Rotor Slip Ring Test Air Mix Control Motor Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Air Mix Control Motor Air Mix Control Motor Replacement 1. Remove the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the air mix control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws and the air mix control motor from the heater unit. 3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly. Locations Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 6501 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 8002 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 4648 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the connector from the 2nd clutch pressure switch (A). 3. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 4. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. 5. Install the air cleaner housing. Locations Hazard Flasher Relay: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Component Location Index Page 6342 NOTE: For color information, refer to PIB A05-0005, Child Seat Anchor Buttons. Click PARTS, then click PARTS LIBRARY, then click Parts Bulletins. Select Child Seat Anchor Buttons from the list. (Each part contains fabric washers, button posts, and back portions.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: 82123-SDA-305ZA Defect Code: 07801 Symptom Code: 03220 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the rear seat-back cover just enough to allow access to the opening where the button will be attached: ^ Refer to Section 20, Rear Seat-back Cover Replacement, in the appropriate service manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, and select the appropriate Rear Seat-back Cover Replacement procedure from the list. 2. Select the appropriate button from the Child Seat Anchor Service Set. 3. Attach the button to the rear seat-back cover: ^ Place a fabric washer over the button post. ^ Insert the post through the opening in the cover. ^ Snap the back portion onto the post. Page 7064 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. Page 1232 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 6671 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 4932 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Interlock Switch Test 1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector (A). 2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. - If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch interlock switch. - If OK, install the clutch interlock switch and adjust the pedal height. Page 3332 Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Fuel sender wrench 07XAA-001010A 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the fuel till cap. 3. Remove the center console, both track floor covers, and both sill trims. 4. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 5. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 6. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (C) from the fuel tank unit. 7. Using the special tool, loosen the fuel pump sending assembly locknut (A). Page 8352 141. Low Beam Cut And DRL Relays (Canada) Page 2247 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 8317 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 6806 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3538 Shift Indicator: Service and Repair A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness Replacement 1. Remove the shift fever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), and remove the bulb from the socket. 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the A/T gear position indicator panel light harness with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light bulb in the socket. 12. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 13. Install the shift lever assembly. Specifications Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Type NGK ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. IZFR6K-11 DENSO ................................................................................................................................................ ....................................................... SKJ20DR-M11 Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 13 ft lb (18 Nm) Gap ..................................................................... ................................................................................................................ 0.039-0.043 inch (1.0-1.1 mm) Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving With the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve fuel pressure from the system by stopping the fuel pump with the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). 1. Remove the fuel fill Gap. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. From the inspection menu of the Honda PGM Tester or HDS, select Fuel Pump OFF, start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. NOTE: Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the ECM/PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump. - A DTC or a temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them as needed. 5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 6. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 7. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean if it needed. 8. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). Page 1288 Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair ATF Replacement ATF Replacement NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission. 1. Bring the transmission up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on) by driving the vehicle. 2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). NOTE: If a cooler cleaner is to be used, refer to ATF cooler cleaning. 4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 5. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid amount through the dipstick hole until the level reaches the upper mark on the dipstick. Always use Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality. Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity: 4WD: 3.1 L (3.3 US qt) at change 7.2 L (7.6 US qt) at overhaul 2WD: 3.2 L (3.4 US qt) at change 6.8 L 17.2 US qt) at overhaul 6. Insert the dipstick (A) back into the transmission with the handle pointing toward the breather pipe (B). Page 7889 ^ If the run channel is not pinched, continue with normal troubleshooting. Page 1035 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 5227 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5584 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 643 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 8194 Page 2652 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 2915 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 2 Page 3758 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Diagrams 25. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A 26. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B 27. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Page 7815 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 2070 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Radiator Fan Switch Replacement 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector (A), then remove the radiator fan switch (B). 4. Install the radiator fan switch with a new O-ring (c). 5. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Page 6058 Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air APPLIES TO: all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C ? The problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off. Locations Hazard Flasher Relay: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Component Location Index Page 7997 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2038 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 5769 6. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. Remove the rear axle shaft (C) from vehicles with 4WD. 7. Remove the parking brake shoes. 8. Remove the parking brake cable (A) from the backing plate. NOTE: The parking brake cable must not be bent or distorted. This will lead to stiff operation and premature cable failure. 9. Remove the wheel sensor (A) from the knuckle (if equipped with ABS). Page 2754 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 3799 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Service and Repair Clutch Slave Cylinder: Service and Repair Slave Cylinder Replacement NOTE: ^ Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces. ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down your customer's radio station presets. 2. Disconnect the negative (-) cable first, then the positive (+) cable from the battery. Remove the battery. 3. Remove the air cleaner housing. 4. Remove the battery tray. 5. Remove the clutch line bracket. 6. Remove the mounting bolts (A) and the slave cylinder (B). 7. Remove the roll pins (C). Disconnect the clutch line (D), and remove the O-ring (E). Plug the end of the clutch line with a shop towel to prevent brake fluid from coming out. Page 8418 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4843 7. Install the brake hose onto the brake hose bracket on the body with a new hose clip (A). 8. Connect the brake line to the brake hose. 9. After installing the brake hose, bleed the brake system. 10. Do the following checks: Check the brake hose and line joint for leaks, and tighten if necessary. Check the brake hoses for interference and twisting. SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components Air-bags The SRS is a safety device which, when used with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and front passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including safing sensor and impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C), the front passenger's airbag (D), seat belt tensioners (1), seat belt buckle tensioners (J), and front impact sensors (K). Since the driver's and front passenger's airbags use the same sensors, both normally inflate at the same time. However, it is possible for only one airbag to inflate. This can occur when the severity of a collision is at the margin, or threshold, that determines whether or not the airbags will deploy. In such cases, the seat belt will provide sufficient protection, and the supplemental protection offered by the airbag would be minimal. Side Airbags The side airbags (E) are in each front seat-back. They help protect the upper torso of the driver or front seat passenger during a moderate to severe side impact. Side impact sensors (F) in each door sill and in the SRS unit detect such an impact and instantly inflate the driver's or the passenger's side airbag. Only one side airbag will deploy during a side impact. If the impact is on the passenger's side, the passenger's side airbag will deploy even if there is no passenger. Seat Belt and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners The seat belt and seat belt buckle tensioners are linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioners instantly retract the belt and buckle firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. OPDS The side airbag system also includes an occupant position detection system (OPDS). This system consists of sensors (G) and a OPDS unit (H) in the front passenger's seat-back. The OPDS unit sends occupant height and position data to the SRS unit. If the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger is of small stature (for example, a child) and the front passenger is leaning into the side airbag deployment path, the SRS unit will automatically disable the passenger's side airbag. The SRS unit will also disable the airbag when the OPDS detects certain objects on the seat. When the side airbag is disabled, the side airbag cutoff indicator on the instrument panel alerts the driver that the passenger's side airbag will not deploy in a side impact. When the object is removed, or the passenger sits upright, the side airbag cutoff indicator will go off after a few seconds, alerting the driver that the passenger's side airbag will deploy in a side impact. Page 248 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Part 1 Page 2377 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor The FTP sensor converts fuel lank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM/PCM during the EVAP leak check. Page 5685 2. Pass the cylinder of the steering gearbox (A) together with the tie-rods (B) through the wheelwell opening on the driver's side. 3. Carefully move the steering gearbox toward the passenger's side until the pinion shaft (A) clears the wheelwell opening (B) on the frame. Continue moving the gearbox toward the passenger's side until the steering gearbox is in position. NOTE: Make sure the power steering return hose is routed between the gearbox and right tie-rod. 4. Install the pinion shaft grommet (A). 5. Insert the pinion shaft up through the bulkhead, and place the steering gearbox on the mounting brackets. Be sure that the pinion shaft grommet is in place securely. Page 2897 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 3348 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 5577 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 3197 Page 5392 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 1202 Page 3451 9. Knock Sensor Service and Repair Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair Lift and Support Points NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as suspension or the fuel tank from the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands. When substantial weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change and cause the vehicle to tip forward on the hoist. Frame Hoist 1. Position the hoist lift blocks (A), or safety stands, under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C). 2. Raise the hoist a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 3. Raise the hoist to full height, and inspect the lift points for solid contact with the lift blocks. Safety Stands To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a frame hoist. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only by a jack. Floor Jack 1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the rear of the vehicle, put the gearshift lever in reverse for manual transmission, or in [P] (park) for automatic transmission. 2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted. 3. Position the floor jack under the front jacking bracket (A) or rear jacking bracket (B), center the jacking bracket in the jack lift platform (C), and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it. 4. Position the safety stands under the support points and adjust them so the vehicle is level. Removal/Installation Throttle Body: Service and Repair Removal/Installation Throttle Body Removal/Installation NOTE: - Do not adjust the throttle stop screw. - After reassembly, adjust the actuator cable and the throttle cable. - The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is not removable. Page 6343 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 as needed for additional buttons. 5. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. Disclaimer Page 2082 Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Heater Blows Cold Air, A/C Blows Warm Air APPLIES TO: all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C ? The problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off. Page 3742 8. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark. 9. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600. 10. Disconnect the GNA600 from the USB PC interface cable, then connect the trigger switch adapter block (yellow) and the trigger switch to the GNA600 as shown below. (The DLC cable should still be connected to the GNA600.) 11. Reconnect the DLC cable to the vehicle's DLC. 12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA600 stays on. Press and release the trigger switch button. 13. The yellow No.1 LED blinks, and the green No.2 LED stays on. This indicates that the control uniti module is being updated. Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: Recalls Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 8270 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 1274 Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications ENGINE COOLANT TYPE Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001). Using a non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50 % antifreeze and 50 % water. Premixing is not required. Locations Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Locations Gauges Component Location Index 30. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 5407 Fuse Block: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 7530 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. Page 4443 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 5416 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 6660 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 120. Right Side Of Engine Compartment Page 267 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 4070 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Component Locations Fuse Block: Component Locations 7. Left Side Of Engine Compartment 42. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 2919 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 1 Service and Repair Hood Latch Release Cable: Service and Repair Hood Opener Cable Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Take care not to scratch the body and related parts. 1. Remove these items: - Front grille cover - Left front inner fender - Left kick panel 2. Disconnect the hood opener cable (A) from the hood latch (B), and remove the bolts (C), then remove the hood release handle (D). 3. Using a clip remover, detach the clips (E). Remove the grommet (F) from the body, then remove the hood opener cable from the vehicle. Take care not to bend the cable. 4. Install the cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Make sure the hood opens properly and locks securely. Page 3240 Idle Speed: By Symptom Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Page 8208 Door Switch: Testing and Inspection Rear Door Switch Test 1. Remove the rear door panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the rear door upper and rear door lower switch. 3. Check for continuity between the 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the rear door open. - There should be no continuity with the rear door closed. 4. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the faulty switch. Page 7542 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 7821 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 968 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 94. Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) 102. Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) Page 2276 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) Page 7979 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 5084 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 7. Left Side Of Engine Compartment 42. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 3637 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 7439 Page 6684 1. At the iPod, make sure the iPod connector is fully engaged. Is the iPod connector fully engaged? Yes - Go to step 2. No - Properly connect the iPod connector and retest. Replace the cable if the connector is loose or damaged. 2. Disconnect the customer's iPod. 3. Connect headphones to the iPod, and listen to the sound quality. Is the sound quality normal in the headphones? Yes - Go to step 4. No - There is static from the customer's uploaded music. If the volume is weak or low, verify the iTunes sound level setting. 4. Connect a known-good iPod and retest. NOTE: Known-good test iPods are available from Tech Line. Is the sound quality normal over the speakers? Yes - The vehicle is functioning normally. Do an iPod reset on the customer's iPod and retest. If the problem does not go away, have the service advisor explain to the customer that the vehicle is operating properly and advise the customer to: ^ Install the latest iPod firmware. ^ Consult the general information at www.apple.com. This is not a comprehensive list, only a suggested starting point for the customer to troubleshoot the iPod. No - Go to step 5. 5. Disconnect the known-good iPod. 6. Do a vehicle battery cable reset: ^ Remove the negative and positive battery cables. Use a jumper wire to short the two cables together, then turn the ignition switch to ON (II) and wait 15 minutes. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the jumper wire. Reconnect the positive battery cable first, then reconnect the negative cable. 7. Reconnect the customer's iPod and retest. Is the sound quality normal over the speakers? Yes It is an intermittent audio unit/Music Link failure, and the system is OK at this time. No - Do the "Check mark is not shown on iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD4 mode" troubleshooting. Music Link has no sound, check mark is shown on iPod display screen. 1. At the Music Link interface unit, make sure both connectors are fully engaged, and the cables do not have any broken or bent pins. NOTE: To release the Music Link interface unit connectors, you must pull back on the lock sleeves. Does either cable have the connector partially disengaged, or are any pins broken or bent? Yes - Reconnect or replace the loose or damaged cable. No - Go to step 2. 2. At the audio unit, make sure the cable connectors and the connector pin fits are tight. Also check that the optional Y-bus harness (if installed) connector and connector pin fits are tight. Do the cable connections and pins fit properly? Yes - Substitute a known-good iPod and retest. If the sound is normal, do an iPod reset, and retest. Page 8428 38. Middle Of Dash (M/T Similar) Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip SOURCE: Honda Service News March 2003 TITLE: Installing an In-Tank Fuel Pump/Sending Unit? Don't Forget a New Base Gasket, Locknut, and Fuel Line Retainers APPLIES TO: See Models Listed In Illustration SERVICE TIP: Whenever you install an in-tank fuel pump/sending unit into a plastic fuel tank, the S/M tells you to install a new base gasket. But did you know you also need to replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers as well? Make a note in the Fuel Supply System subsection of the appropriate S/Ms to also replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers. Then follow this handy chart to order the appropriate parts. Install the new gasket on the fuel tank side, not on the fuel pump/sending unit side; this ensures that the gasket doesn't get pinched or rolled. If you don't install the fuel pump/sending unit correctly, the MIL could come on with an EVAP control system leakage DTC set. The gasket and the locknut are currently available in Honda parts stock under separate part numbers. But soon, they'll be packaged under a single part number. The fuel sending unit, gasket, and locknut will also be packaged together under a single part number. The gasket and the locknut will then be discontinued as separate part numbers. Page 8293 Brake Light Switch: Description and Operation Brake Pedal Position Switch The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM/PCM when the brake pedal is pressed. Page 8367 Dome Lamp: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 3780 Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Solenoid Valve Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve connectors. 7. Remove the bolts, and hold the shift solenoid valve body, then remove them. Do not hold the connector to remove. Page 944 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 5788 8. From passenger's compartment side, weld the dash board lower (A) and damper housing extension lower (B). 9. Main weld the front wheelhouse (A) to the damper housing (B), front damper extension (C) and front side frame (D). NOTE: When cutting the front damper extension,attach the patch (E) at the cut section of the front damper extension. Page 4631 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 6953 Front Bumper: Service and Repair Front Bumper Trim Replacement Front Bumper Trim Replacement 1. Remove the clips (A), and release the hooks (B), then remove the front bumper trim (C) from the front bumper (D) by pulling it out. Take care not to scratch the front bumper. 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the hook portions into place securely. Page 5932 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Recirculation Control Motor Recirculation Control Motor Replacement 1. Remove the ECM/PCM. 2. Remove the bolt and the bracket (A). Disconnect the 7P connector (B) and the harness clip (C) from the recirculation control motor (D). Remove the self-tapping screws and the recirculation control motor from the blower unit. 3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly. Page 247 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) Page 8151 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 15. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P) and the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. 16. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E29 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E29) and the DLC. NO - Go to step 17. 17. Disconnect the gauge assembly connector B(16P). 18. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E31 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E31) and the gauge assembly. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 19. Try to start the engine. Does the engine start? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Go to step 26. 20. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Page 8597 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 1224 Disclaimer Page 1713 Cylinder Head Cover Installation 1. Thoroughly clean the head cover gasket and the groove. 2. Install the head cover gasket (A) in the groove of the cylinder head cover (B). 3. Check that the mating surfaces are clean and dry. 4. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, on the chain case and the No. 5 rocker shaft holder mating areas. NOTE: Do not install the parts if 4 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing old residue. 5. Set the spark plug seals (A) on the spark plug tubes. Place the cylinder head cover (B) on the cylinder head, then slide the cover slightly back and forth to seat the head cover gasket. 6. Inspect the cover washers (C). Replace any washer that is damaged or deteriorated. Page 3402 Throttle Body: Description and Operation Throttle Body The throttle body is a single-barrel side draft type. The lower portion of the idle air control (IAC) valve is heated by engine coolant from the cylinder head to prevent icing of the throttle plate. Page 5856 Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub disassembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 - Driver 07749-0010000 - Support base 07965-SD90100 Knuckle Replacement 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Page 8558 Map Light: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 8030 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Diagnostic Aids Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 642 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 2336 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate B. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate B in the reverse order of removal. Service and Repair Strut / Shock Tower: Service and Repair Removal Front Wheel house - Cut and remove the wheelhouse upper member. - When replace the front wheelhouse, if necessary, cut the front damper extension. Left side: - When removing the front wheelhouse M/T: Leave the transmission mount bracket attached to the front side frame. A/T: When replacing the front wheelhouse, support the wheelhouse and transmission mount bracket as an assembly. Right side: Page 5351 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2) Page 5311 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 2433 22. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. lithe symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G301. Page 1451 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2671 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 5135 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 627 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor B Replacement CMP Sensor B Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve. 3. Disconnect the CMP sensor B connector (A). 4. Remove CMP sensor B (B). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Locations 110. Middle Of Hatch A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 6793 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 665 97. FTP Sensor Page 5633 NOTICE: Do not keep the shut-off valve closed more than 5 seconds or the pump could be damaged by overheating. 11. Immediately open the pressure control valve fully. If the pump is in good condition, the gauge should read at least this specification: 7,460 - 8,140 kPa (76 - 83 kgf/cm2, 1,080 - 1,180 psi) A low reading means pump output is too low for full assist. Repair or replace the pump. Page 598 Hazard Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Hazard Warning Switch Test 1. Remove the center panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the hazard warning switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws and the hazard warning switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the illumination bulb (C) or the switch. 6. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal. Page 4852 Brake Master Cylinder: Adjustments Brake Booster Pushrod Clearance Adjustment Special Tools Required Pushrod adjustment gauge 07JAG-SD40100 NOTE: Brake booster pushrod-to-piston clearance must be checked and adjustments made, if necessary, before installing the master cylinder. 1. Set the special tool (A) on the master cylinder body (B), push in the center shaft (C) until the top of it contacts the end of the secondary piston (D) by turning the adjusting nut (E). 2. Without disturbing the center shaft's position, install the special tool (A) backwards on the booster. 3. Install the master cylinder nuts (B), and tighten them to the specified torque. 4. Connect the booster in-line with a vacuum gauge (C) 0 - 101 kPa (0 - 760 mm Hg, 30 inch Hg) to the booster's engine vacuum supply, and maintain an engine speed that will deliver 66 kPa (500 mm Hg, 20 inch Hg) vacuum. 5. With a feeler gauge (A), measure the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut (B) as shown. If the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch), the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0 mm. However, if the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut is 0 mm, the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch) or more. Therefore it must be adjusted and rechecked. Clearance: 0 - 0.4 mm (0 - 0.02 inch) Page 3381 Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 6662 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 4508 11. Attach the side rubber dam (A), lower rubber dam (B) with adhesive tape. Attach the clips (C) with adhesive tape and dashboard seal (D) to the inside face of the windshield (E) as shown: Be sure the side rubber dam, lower rubber dam, and dashboard seal line up with the alignment marks (F). - Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. 12. Apply primer to the edge of the windshield between the alignment marks (A). Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 3469 91. CKP Sensor Locations 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment (EX) Page 132 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7581 7. Remove the cover (A), then remove the three screws and the actuator (B). 8. Route the wire harness (A) of the new actuator through the hole in the bracket (B) and gasket (C). 9. Install the actuator, bracket, and cover in the reverse order of removal. 10. Insert the new actuator terminals into the connector in the original arrangement as shown. 11. Reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly. Be careful not to break in the mirror holder when reinstalling it to the actuator. 12. Reinstall the mirror assembly to the door. 13. Operate the power mirror to ensure smooth operation. Page 6604 system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Turning the Audible Chirp On/Off (1998-99 only) NOTE: On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the transmitter a second time. 1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock. 2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position, three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the chirp has been turned on/off. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. Page 4288 Wheel Bearing: Testing and Inspection End Play Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts. 3. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. Front/rear: Standard: 0 - 0.05 mm (0 - 0.002 inch) 4. Measure the bearing end play moving the brake disc inward or outward. 5. If the bearing end play measurement is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing. Page 2917 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Part 1 Page 6823 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 4762 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Locations Page 4757 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 4807 Honda 1-Piece Speed Mounts P/N KWY-108006000 (for most models), P/N KWY-108007500 (Odysseys, Pilots, and Ridgelines with two-piston calipers) Attaching the Power Drive System 1. Make sure the drive motor assembly on the power drive system is level with the brake disc. 2. Attach the mounting yoke to the brake disc, and secure it with one of the wheel nuts. Torque the wheel nut to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual). Page 3992 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 7820 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 7451 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1616. Each transmitter uses one battery. 97-04 CR-V & 00-04 S2000 *1997-04 CR-V LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1998-04 CR-V EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-01 CR-V SE with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-04 S2000 with factory-installed keyless entry system 2002-04 CR-V with dealer-installed security system* Page 6071 Disclaimer Page 6434 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Page 5401 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 5779 6. Tighten the new self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) to the specified torque values while holding the respective joint pins (C) with a hex wrench (D). 7. After 5 minutes of driving, re-tighten the self locking nut again to the specified torque. Locations 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Front Suspension Page 6469 Seat Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Deploying Airbags/Tensioner (Inside Vehicle) Airbag Disposal Special Tool Required Deployment tool 07HAZ-SG00500 Before scrapping any airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), they must be deployed. If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District Parts and Service Manager must give approval and/or special instruction before deploying the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners. Only after the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt buckle tensioners have been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for example), can they be scrapped. If the airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, and seat belt buckle tensioners appear intact (not deployed), treat them with extreme caution. Follow this procedure. Deploying Airbags in the Vehicle If an SRS equipped vehicle is to be entirely scrapped, its airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, and seat belt buckle tensioners should be deployed while still in the vehicle. The airbags, side airbags, seat belt tensioners, and seat belt buckle tensioners should not be considered as salvageable parts and should never be installed in another vehicle. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 2. Confirm that each airbag, side airbag, or seat belt tensioner is securely mounted. 3. Confirm that the special tool is functioning properly by following the check procedure on the tool label. Driver's Airbag: 4. Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector from the cable reel . Front Passenger's Airbag: 5. Lower the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector from the dashboard wire harness. Side Airbag: 6. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connectors from the floor wire harness. Seat belt tensioner: 7. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connectors from the floor wire harness. Pull the seat belt out all the way, and cut it off. Seat belt buckle tensioner: 8. Disconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors from the floor wire harness. Page 3908 (A/T) Page 2155 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 8251 31. Back-up Light Switch (M/T) Page 5455 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 2103 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 6779 How to Identify Connector Terminals Wheel Bearings - Humming Or Growling Wheel Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins Wheel Bearings - Humming Or Growling SOURCE: Honda Service News November 2003 TITLE: Humming or Growling? Check the Wheel Bearings APPLIES TO: 1998-04 Accord, 2001-04 CR-V, 2003 Element, 1999-04 Odyssey SERVICE TIP: A bad front wheel bearing(s) can make a humming or growling that's easily mistaken for a noisy bearing or gear in the A/T. Before you order a reman A/T, test-drive the vehicle to make sure the A/T is really the problem. Listen carefully as you accelerate and decelerate during your test-drive. Shift into neutral. Varying throttle position and shifting into neutral changes the load on the A/T bearings and gears. If the A/T has a bad bearing or gear, the change in load will affect its noise level. If that's what you find, then go ahead and order a reman A/T. If the noise level isn't affected by changes in throttle position or shifting into neutral, then the culprit could be a bad front wheel bearing(s). Since the wheel bearings aren't mounted on shafts being spread apart by gears, they're not affected by changes in load. Also, since Honda uses angular contact wheel bearings, you won't normally hear a change in noise level when you swerve the vehicle from side to side. Hook up a STEELMAN® ChassisEAR (T/N JSP SM06600) to the front knuckles, and test-drive the vehicle again. Refer to S/B 00-063, STEELMAN ChassisEAR Diagnostic Tool, for more info. If you hear humming or growling from one or affected wheel bearing(s), and then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the noise is gone. If you don't hear any noise from the front wheel bearings, the problem could be from tire noise or vibration. Swap the front wheels and tires with a known-good vehicle. Testdrive the vehicle, and check if the noise or vibration goes away. STEELMAN(R) and ChassisEAR (R) are registered trademarks of J.S. Products, Inc. Page 8230 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the connector from the parking brake switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (B) and body ground. ^ With the parking brake lever pulled, there should be continuity. ^ With the parking brake lever released, there should be no continuity. NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, troubleshoot the ABS. ^ If the parking brake switch and brake fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator does not work, check the ABS. Page 2031 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Locations Horn Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 6080 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 5464 to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Locations Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index 29. Rear Of Engine Compartment Page 2531 Disclaimer Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Locations Oil Pressure Sender: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 5988 16. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the compressor clutch relay 4P socket and the No. 1 terminal of the compressor clutch 1P connector. Is there continuity? YES - Check the compressor clutch clearance, and the compressor clutch field coil. NO - Repair open in the wire between the compressor clutch relay socket and the compressor clutch. Page 6398 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 5716 2. Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal canceling sleeve (B) as shown. Install the steering wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and tabs of the canceling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when installing the steering wheel. 3. Install the steering wheel bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque. Connect the horn switch connector (B) and cruise control set/resume/cancel switch connector (C). Make sure the wire harness is routed and fastened properly. 4. Install the driver's airbag, and confirm that the system is operating properly. 5. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 6. Perform the power window control unit reset procedure. 7. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. Reset the clock. 8. Check the horn and turn signal canceling for proper operation. Capacity Specifications Coolant: Capacity Specifications Engine Coolant Refill Capacity [including the reserve tank capacity of 0.6 l (0.6 US qt)]: M/T ...................................................................................................................................................... ................................................... 5.1 - (5.4 US qt) A/T ........................................................................ .................................................................................................................................. 5.0 - (5.3 US qt) Page 5115 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement Accessory Power Sockets Test/Replacement Front: 1. Carefully pry the accessory power socket and housing (A) out from the dashboard. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the socket. 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No.1 and No.2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G 502). - an open in the wire. - blown No.18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Rear: Page 160 Tail Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 303 6. Connect the SCS service connector (A) to the yellow MES 2P connector (B). Do not use a jumper wire. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. The SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and goes off. Remove the SCS service connector from the MES 2P connector within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator went off. 9. The SRS indicator comes on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES 2P connector within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on. 10. The SRS indicator goes off. Remove the SCS service connector from the MES 2P connector within 4 seconds. 11. Watch the SRS indicator. - If the indicator blinks two times and then stays on, the OPDS is initialized, but the DTCs need to be erased. Go to step 12, then erase the DTCs. - If the indicator blinks two times and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Go to step 12. - If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS is not initialized. Read the DTC. If DTC 15-1 is indicated, repeat the initialization procedure. If another DTC is indicated, go to the appropriate code in the DTC Troubleshooting. If the OPDS system fails to initialize after several attempts, replace the OPDS sensor/seat back and retry. If the OPDS system continues to fail to initialize, replace the OPDS unit. 12. Turn the ignition switch off, and disconnect the HDS Capacity Specifications Coolant: Capacity Specifications Engine Coolant Refill Capacity [including the reserve tank capacity of 0.6 l (0.6 US qt)]: M/T ...................................................................................................................................................... ................................................... 5.1 - (5.4 US qt) A/T ........................................................................ .................................................................................................................................. 5.0 - (5.3 US qt) Page 1103 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 4374 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Check for continuity between O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 while pushing the O/D switch toggle. The O/D switch terminals continuity is toggled by pushing the O/D switch ON and OFF. 13. If the O/D switch works properly, connect the connector and install the removed parts. If the switch is faulty, go to step 14, and replace the switch. 14. Remove the shift lever assembly. 15. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 16. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 17. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 4742 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 3038 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Page 8476 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 879 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch The PSP switch signals the ECM/PCM when the power steering load is high. Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 3. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 4. Remove the ATF pipe (B), ATF joint pipes (C), O-rings (D), and gasket (E). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect it securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 334 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Page 4239 Pressure Plate: Specifications Standards and Service Limits Pressure plate Warpage Standard or New ....................................................................................................................................................... 0.03 mm (0.001 inch) maximum Limit ................................................................................................. ......................................................................................... 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) Height of diaphragm spring fingers measured with special tool and feeler gauge Standard or New ........................................................................................................................................................... 0.6 mm (0.02 inch) maximum Limit ..................................................................................................... ......................................................................................... 0.8 mm (0.03 inch) Page 131 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 2253 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Tailgate Latch Switch Test Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Tailgate Latch Switch Test Tailgate Latch Switch Test 1. Open the tailgate and remove the tailgate trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the each tailgate latch switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the each tailgate latch switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the tailgate open. - There should be no continuity with the tailgate closed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 1669 Connecting Rod: Specifications Torque Specifications Connecting Rod Cap Bolt Torque Apply motor oil to the threads of bolt, Connecting Rod Bolts .......................................................................................................................... ...................................................................... 20 N.m Hatch Handle Trunk / Liftgate Handle: Service and Repair Hatch Handle Hatch Handle Replacement Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. 1. Remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Pry the hatch handle covers (A) out from both sides using the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set, then remove them from the hatch handle (B). 3. Remove the nuts, then remove the hatch handle (A) from the hatch (B). Page 2236 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 7026 Rear Door Latch: Service and Repair Rear Door Upper Latch Replacement Rear Door Upper Latch Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover, as necessary - Door trim 2. Detach the harness clips (A). Disconnect the upper latch switch connector (B), and detach it. 3. Disconnect the upper latch cable (A) in the sequence shown. Take care not to bend the cable. Locations Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 2277 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Part 1 Page 138 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 5484 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8560 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 1914 ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Description and Operation Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor The BARO sensor is inside the ECM/PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge. Locations Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Main Bearing Selection Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Main Bearing Selection Main Bearing Selection Crankshaft Bore Code Location 1. Numbers or letters or bars have been stamped on the end of the block as a code for the size of each of the five main journal bores. Write down the crank bore codes. If you can't read the codes because of accumulated dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent. Main Journal Code Location 2. The main journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft in either location. Page 5858 6. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. Remove the rear axle shaft (C) from vehicles with 4WD. 7. Remove the parking brake shoes. 8. Remove the parking brake cable (A) from the backing plate. NOTE: The parking brake cable must not be bent or distorted. This will lead to stiff operation and premature cable failure. 9. Remove the wheel sensor (A) from the knuckle (if equipped with ABS). Page 1425 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 6790 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 2884 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 6832 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 864 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 3440 91. CKP Sensor Page 5325 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 8692 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3458 23. Left Side Of Engine Page 6625 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1616. Each transmitter uses one battery. 97-04 CR-V & 00-04 S2000 *1997-04 CR-V LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1998-04 CR-V EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-01 CR-V SE with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-04 S2000 with factory-installed keyless entry system 2002-04 CR-V with dealer-installed security system* Page 720 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Testing and Inspection PSP Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP SWITCH the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it indicate OFF? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 12. 4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - The PSP switch signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 7. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 11. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM (E16) and the PSP switch. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the PSP switch 2Pconnector. Page 6910 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 2736 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 8207 39. Door Lower Switch, Right Rear 40. Door Upper Switch, Left Rear 41. Door Upper Switch, Right Rear Page 5345 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Service and Repair Accessory Power Sockets Test/Replacement Front: 1. Carefully pry the accessory power socket and housing (A) out from the dashboard. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the socket. 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No.1 and No.2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G 502). - an open in the wire. - blown No.18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Rear: Page 7450 (Not interchangeable with CR-V and S2000 remote transmitter) Transmitter Identification The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1 seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second. Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 03-04 Accord LX and EX 2003-04 Accord LX and EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 1065 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 4944 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Locations Oxygen Sensor Relay: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 3736 NOTE: If the Database Update is an earlier version than the one listed in a Honda service communication (service bulletin, product update, iN message, etc.), press ESC, then update your MVCI before continuing. 6. Wait for the MVCI to check the vehicle for reprogrammable systems. This may take up to 90 seconds. 7. If there are multiple reprogrammable systems that need to be updated, select the applicable system. Press ENTER to continue, or press ESC to exit. 8. The current program ID, the recommended update, and other details appear. Press ENTER to continue, or press ESC to exit. Page 1010 Page 2737 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 7161 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Locations Neutral Safety Switch: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 2678 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 7175 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 1469 31. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminals No.2 and No.4 individually, Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 1. Also replace the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. NO - Go to step 32. 32. Disconnect each of the components or connectors below, one at a time, and check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. PGM-FI main relay 2 - ECM/PCM connector A (31P) - Each injector 2P connector - Idle air control (IAC) valve 3P connector - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor B 3P connector - Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor 3P connector Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 33. NO - Replace the component that made the short to body ground go away when disconnected. If the item is the ECM/PCM, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Also replace the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. 33. Disconnect the connectors of these components. - PGM-FI main relay 2 - ECM/PCM connector A (31P) - Injectors - Idle air control (IAC) valve - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor B - Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor Page 6362 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair OPDS Unit Replacement OPDS Unit Replacement NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure in the Body section before doing repairs or service. Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the passenger's side airbag harness 2P connector. 3. Remove the front passenger's seat assembly and seat-back cover. 4. Remove the cover (A), then disconnect the OPDS unit harness 8P and sensor connectors (B) from the OPDS unit (C). 5. Remove the two screws (D) and the OPDS unit. Installation 1. Place the new OPDS unit (A) on the front passenger's seat-back frame. Tighten the two screws (B), and connect the OPDS unit harness 8P and sensor connectors (C) to the OPDS unit. Reinstall the cover (D). 2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then connect the side airbag harness 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 5. Set the seat-back in a normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the seat. 6. Initialize the OPDS unit. 7. After installing the OPDS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 5144 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 4527 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 5877 Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires- Edge Wear Is Normal SOURCE: Honda Service News December 2004 TITLE: Element Tire Edge Wear Is Normal APPLIES TO: 2003-05 Element SERVICE TIP: Have you gotten any complaints of tire edge wear from owners? Due to the shape and tread design of the tire, normal tread wear can look like accelerated edge wear on these tires. This wear doesn't affect the tire's performance. Remaining tread life should always be measured at the tread grooves. If you suspect the tire wear isn't normal, check if the tires are inflated to the specified cold inflation pressures listed on the doorjamb sticker and the wheel alignment is within spec. Also check if your customer is following the recommended tire rotation schedule in the O/M. If the vehicle checks out OK, and your customer has been faithfully following the tire rotation schedule, then check with the tire manufacturer for warranty resolution. Page 3311 Fuel Line Inspection Part 2 Page 733 Component Locations Door Switch: Component Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index Page 3904 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3RD Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the connector from the 3rd clutch pressure switch (A). 2. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 3. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. Page 1066 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 2638 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 222 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3342 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Diagram Information and Instructions Map Light: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4598 Countershaft Sensor: Service and Repair Countershaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the countershaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the countershaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the countershaft speed sensor, and install the countershaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Locations Clutch Switch: Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 542 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 7295 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing a front airbag, side airbag, or other SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel, the front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, the seat belt buckle tensioners, and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors or the side airbag connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector A (1) from the SRS unit, disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3), the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (4), the driver's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (6), and the front passenger's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (7). - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B (8) from the SRS unit, disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (11, 12), and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (9, 10). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (2), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3). - Before disconnecting the floor wire harness 4P connector (5), disconnect both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (6, 7). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. Driver's Airbag Page 7528 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Page 201 DTC P0979 thru P1193 Splash Shield Replacement Splash Guard: Service and Repair Splash Shield Replacement Fenderwell Splash Shield Replacement NOTE: Take care not to scratch the body. 1. Remove the splash shield (A). 1. From both wheel arches, remove the clips (B) securing the front inner fender (C) and splash shield to the body. 2. From under the front bumper (D), remove the clips (B) and bolts (E). 3. Pull the splash shield out. 2. Install the splash shield in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 7085 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. Page 7981 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 2740 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Fuse: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 4980 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 5141 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 7340 - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. 1. Remove the trim as shown. 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips and hooks into place securely. - Make sure the tweeter connector is plugged in properly (for some models). Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area Trim Removal/Installation - Cargo Area Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program. NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. 1. Remove the cargo area trim as shown. To remove the rear trim panel, lift up on the hinged section and hold it, then remove the screws and release the clips. Page 5814 2. Loosely install the flange nuts (A) onto the top of the damper. 3. Loosely install the flange bolt (A) on the bottom of the damper (B). 4. Raise the suspension with a floor jack to load it with the vehicle's weight, and tighten the nuts and bolt to the specified torque values. 5. Install the EVAP canister mounting bolts (only left side). 6. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc/drum and the inside of the wheel, then install the rear wheel. 7. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 7469 Page 3664 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-305 H/C 8423972 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 09201 Template ID: 06-041A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE Disclaimer Specifications Thermostat: Specifications Thermostat Opening temperature Begins to open ..................................................................................................................................... .................................. 169 - 176°F (76 - 80°C) Fully open .................................................................. ............................................................................................................................. 194°F (90°C) Page 7128 Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Actuator: Testing and Inspection Hatch Lock Actuator Test 1. Remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the actuator. 3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to the table. To prevent damage to actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. 4. If the actuator does not operate as specified, replace it. Page 3925 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 786 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Alarm Module: Customer Interest Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Page 353 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Substitute the PCM How to Substitute the PCM 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 4. Remove the glove box stops, then open the glove box. 5. Remove the 20P harness connector (A) from its bracket, and disconnect PCM connectors. 6. Disconnect all PCM connectors. 7. Remove the relays from the glove box frame. 8. Loosen the PCM mounting nut (B) on the lower right of the PCM, and remove the mounting bolt (C) and nut (D) on the left of the PCM. 9. Lift the PCM up to clear the mounting nut on the lower right of the PCM, then pull out the PCM (E). 10. Install a known-good PCM. 11. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this will allow you to start the engine. 12. After completing your test, reinstall the original PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS again. Page 671 50. IAT Sensor Page 4040 28. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 29. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 30. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 31. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 32. Install the shift lever assembly. Locations Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 5659 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to the impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit, respectively, will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: Seat Belt Tensioners and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners 1. A front impact sensor must activate and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the tensioners. 3. The charges must ignite and deploy the tensioners. Driver's and Front Passenger's Airbag(s) 1. A front impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals, and depending on the severity of the collision and whether the seat belt buckle switch is ON or OFF, it sends the appropriate signals to the airbag inflator(s). 3. The inflators that received signals must ignite and deploy the airbags. Side Airbag(s) 1. Aside impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the side airbag inflator(s). However, the microprocessor turns off the signals to the front passenger's side airbag if the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger's head is in the deployment path of the side airbag. 3. The inflator that received the signal must ignite and deploy the side airbag. Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the system is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after 6 seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the system. The system must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the SRS unit memory stores a DTC that relates to the cause of the malfunction, and the unit is connected to the data link circuit. This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS when it is connected to the data link connector (DLC). NOTE: If the battery negative cable is disconnected during troubleshooting, do the following: Before you disconnect the battery: Page 6819 Service and Repair Rear Door Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Rear Door Weatherstrip Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the door. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. Detach the clips (A, B), release the double-sided adhesive tape (C), then remove the door weatherstrip (D). 2. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Scrape off the remaining double-sided adhesive tape from the weatherstrip and rear door, and clean the weatherstrip and rear door with alcohol. Attach new double-sided adhesive tape (3M 4213, or equivalent) to the weatherstrip. - Make sure the weatherstrip is installed in the holder (E) securely. - Check for water leaks. - Test-drive and check for wind noise. Page 3629 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Page 8115 Fuel Gauge Sender: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. 1. Check the No.10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Do the gauge drive circuit check. - If the fuel gauge needle moves from the minimum to maximum position and then returns to the minimum position, the gauge is OK. Go to step 3. - If the fuel gauge needle does not move as stated above, replace the gauge assembly and retest. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Remove the center console both track floor covers, and both door sill trims. 5. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 6. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 7. Measure voltage between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery voltage. - If the voltage is OK, go to step 8. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: a short in the YEL/BLK wire to ground. - an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK/WHT wire. - poor ground (G 551). 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 30 seconds, then reinstall it. Page 1333 6. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line. Page 43 Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 4994 116. Alternator Page 1455 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4914 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the connector from the parking brake switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (B) and body ground. ^ With the parking brake lever pulled, there should be continuity. ^ With the parking brake lever released, there should be no continuity. NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, troubleshoot the ABS. ^ If the parking brake switch and brake fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator does not work, check the ABS. Page 2432 14. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine. 15. Check the PSPSW in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to OFF? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 17. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector. 18. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 19. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 20. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 to body ground with a jumper wire. 21. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal E16. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and ECM/PCM (E16). Page 5518 5. Pull out the grommet and disconnect the connectors. Remove the rear door subharness. NOTE: The replacement harness does not have these connectors. 6. Remove the old harness from the door, noting all of the clip locations. 7. Install the new rear door harness, and make sure all of the connectors are securely connected. Also make sure all of the harness grommets and mounting clips are securely attached. 8. Reinstall all removed parts. 9. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure that the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. Disclaimer Page 3351 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 6791 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4473 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A). 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the park pin switch with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No.2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 12. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 7121 11. Attach the corner fasteners (A, B) with adhesive tape to the tailgate as shown. 12. Set the rear window in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A) across the rear window, tailgate, and body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Be careful not to touch the rear window where adhesive will be applied. 13. Remove the rear window. 14. With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer to the edge of the rear window (A) along the rubber dam (B) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: With the printed dots (C)on the rear window as a guide, apply the glass primer to both side portions of the rear window. - Do not apply body primer to the rear window, and do not get body and glass primer sponges mixed up. - Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the rear window properly, causing a leak after the rear window is installed. - Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surface. Page 3463 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate B. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate B in the reverse order of removal. Page 7355 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 3718 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Use the HDS to clear DTC P0606. 2. Make sure you have the latest iN CD (September '04 or later) loaded into your dealership's master server. If not, load the software using the instructions that come with the CD. 3. Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM); refer to S/B 01-023, Using the Honda Interface Module to Update Control Units/Modules. NOTE: If the ECM/PCM in the vehicle already has the correct software update, refer to the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting. 4. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle fully closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes. Disclaimer SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components Air-bags The SRS is a safety device which, when used with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and front passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including safing sensor and impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C), the front passenger's airbag (D), seat belt tensioners (1), seat belt buckle tensioners (J), and front impact sensors (K). Since the driver's and front passenger's airbags use the same sensors, both normally inflate at the same time. However, it is possible for only one airbag to inflate. This can occur when the severity of a collision is at the margin, or threshold, that determines whether or not the airbags will deploy. In such cases, the seat belt will provide sufficient protection, and the supplemental protection offered by the airbag would be minimal. Side Airbags The side airbags (E) are in each front seat-back. They help protect the upper torso of the driver or front seat passenger during a moderate to severe side impact. Side impact sensors (F) in each door sill and in the SRS unit detect such an impact and instantly inflate the driver's or the passenger's side airbag. Only one side airbag will deploy during a side impact. If the impact is on the passenger's side, the passenger's side airbag will deploy even if there is no passenger. Seat Belt and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners The seat belt and seat belt buckle tensioners are linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioners instantly retract the belt and buckle firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. OPDS The side airbag system also includes an occupant position detection system (OPDS). This system consists of sensors (G) and a OPDS unit (H) in the front passenger's seat-back. The OPDS unit sends occupant height and position data to the SRS unit. If the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger is of small stature (for example, a child) and the front passenger is leaning into the side airbag deployment path, the SRS unit will automatically disable the passenger's side airbag. The SRS unit will also disable the airbag when the OPDS detects certain objects on the seat. When the side airbag is disabled, the side airbag cutoff indicator on the instrument panel alerts the driver that the passenger's side airbag will not deploy in a side impact. When the object is removed, or the passenger sits upright, the side airbag cutoff indicator will go off after a few seconds, alerting the driver that the passenger's side airbag will deploy in a side impact. Page 7665 Failed Part: P/N 81526-S9A-J01 H/C 6904593 Defect Code: 07407 Symptom Code: 04205 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Push in on the upper middle of the front seat, then push in on both upper side bolsters. Do this for both front seats. If you hear any noise, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE to repair the noisy seat. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before you do this service bulletin. ^ On models with side airbags, you must disconnect the battery (as noted in step 2). However, on models without side airbags, you do not need to disconnect the battery. 1. With side airbags: Write down the customer's audio presets, and make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio. 2. With side airbags: Disconnect and isolate the negative cable from the battery, and wait for 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Cut four strips of wool felt: ^ Two 40 x 120 mm strips ^ Two 10 x 30 mm strips 4. Remove the driver's seat armrest (if applicable): ^ For 2003 models: Refer to page 20-90 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual; ^ For 2004-05 models: Refer to page 20-91 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual, or Page 4102 5. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 6. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 7. Remove the O/D switch harness clamp from the shift lever bracket and from the harness, and pull the O/D switch harness out to remove the shift lever assembly. 8. Replace the shift lever ring, and install the new shift lever ring (A) to the shift lever (B). 9. Insert the O/D switch harness (C) into the shift lever ring, and route the harness through the groove (D) of the shift lever into the hole (E). Do not pinch the harness. 10. Wind the O/D switch harness (A) one turn around the clamp (B) on the bottom of the shift lever. 11. Install the harness clamp (C) at the reference tape (D) on the harness, then install the clamp in the hole (E) of the shift lever bracket (F). Page 1356 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Locations Power Mirror Switch: Locations Power Mirrors Component Location Index Service and Repair Timing Chain Tensioner: Service and Repair Removal 1. Remove the chain case cover. 2. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the auto-tensioner. 3. Align the holes on the lock (A) and the auto-tensioner (B), then insert a 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) diameter pin (C) into the holes. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to secure the pin. Specifications Axle Nut: Specifications Front Axle Nut ...................................................................................................................................... ................................................. 245 nm (181 lb. ft.) Rear Axle Nut ...................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 181 nm (134 lb. ft.) Page 8570 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3546 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Substitute the PCM How to Substitute the PCM 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 4. Remove the glove box stops, then open the glove box. 5. Remove the 20P harness connector (A) from its bracket, and disconnect PCM connectors. 6. Disconnect all PCM connectors. 7. Remove the relays from the glove box frame. 8. Loosen the PCM mounting nut (B) on the lower right of the PCM, and remove the mounting bolt (C) and nut (D) on the left of the PCM. 9. Lift the PCM up to clear the mounting nut on the lower right of the PCM, then pull out the PCM (E). 10. Install a known-good PCM. 11. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this will allow you to start the engine. 12. After completing your test, reinstall the original PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS again. Page 2752 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Specifications Engine Assembly Rear Bumper Removal/Installation Rear Bumper: Service and Repair Rear Bumper Removal/Installation Rear Bumper Removal/Installation NOTE: - Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the rear bumper. - Take care not to scratch the rear bumper and body. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the rear bumper as shown. Page 8035 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 1452 210. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Page 1043 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 8656 Hazard Flasher Relay: Testing and Inspection Turn Signal/Hazard Relay Input Test 1. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B). 2. Inspect the relay and fuse/relay box socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 3. 3. Make these input tests at the fuse/relay box. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it. Page 5664 2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (B) from the cable reel. Front Passenger's Airbag 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from dashboard wire harness B. Side Airbag 4. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner Page 4021 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 3361 139. Fuel Tank Unit Page 3300 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 2889 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 732 Page 2956 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B CMP sensor B detects the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. Page 197 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 4900 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 33. Brake Fluid Level Switch 33. Brake Fluid Level Switch Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 604 Horn Switch: Testing and Inspection Horn Switch Test 1. Remove the steering column covers. 2. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness B 5P connector (A) from the cable reel (B). 3. Using a jumper wire, connect the dashboard wire harness B 5P connector (A) No. 1 terminal to body ground. - If the horn sound, go to step 4. - If the horn doesn't sound, check these items: Horn relay - No. 7 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box - Horn. - An open in the wire 4. Reconnect the dashboard wire harness B 5P connector (A), and disconnect the horn switch positive 1P connector (B). 5. Using a jumper wire, connect the horn switch positive 1P connector (B) to ground. - If the horn sound, go to step 6. - If the horn does not sound, replace the cable reel. 6. Reconnect the horn switch positive 1P connector (B). 7. Using a jumper wire, connect the steering wheel to body ground. 8. Close the contacts between the horn plate and the contact plate. - If the horn sound, replace the steering column. - If the horn does not sound, replace the horn and contact plate. Page 1062 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Page 1114 ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Page 6166 Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 5133 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7307 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 4738 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index Page 8696 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 2987 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Locations Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index 13. Right Side Of Engine Locations Horn Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 5694 14. Install the special tool (A) on the lock screw (B), then loosen and remove the lock screw from inside of the gearbox housing (C). 15. Remove the special tool. 16. Pull on the cylinder to remove it from the gearbox housing. Remove boot A and the slider guide (B) from the cylinder. 17. Check the slider guide for damage and cracks. Use vernier calipers to measure the thickness of the slider guide. If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace the slider guide. Page 5137 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 5738 In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 51391-SCV-A02 H/C 8866089 Defect Code: 02101 Symptom Code: 04201 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Listen for clanking or knocking in the front suspension while driving over bumps: ^ If you hear the noise, or see that the bushing is cracked, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. ^ If you don't hear the noise, continue with normal troubleshooting. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the front wheels. 3. Remove the flange nut while holding the joint pin with a hex wrench, and disconnect the stabilizer link from the lower arm. NOTE: Use a new flange nut during reassembly. Page 5944 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 3574 Mainshaft Sensor: Service and Repair Mainshaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the mainshaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the mainshaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the mainshaft speed sensor, and install the mainshaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Page 4827 Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Rear Removal and Installation Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Replacement 1. Hold the pins (A) with a wrench, being careful not to damage the pin boots. Remove the caliper bolts (B), and remove the caliper (C) from the caliper bracket. 2. Remove the pad shims (A) and pads (B). 3. Remove the pad retainers (A). Page 7727 8. Remove and discard the three nuts. Remove and retain the washers from the outboard front link and from the seat track. Remove and discard the three bushings. 9. Install the three new bushings and the outboard front link. *10. Use brake cleaner to remove grease from any threads before installing the nuts.* Install the original washers and new nuts. Torque the nuts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 11. Remove the center cover (three clips and two hooks) from the inboard seat track. Then remove the seat belt buckle (center anchor bolt, collar, spring washer, and toothed lock washer). Page 4746 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Interior - Front Seat Back Squeaking/Rubbing Noises Seat Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Front Seat Back Squeaking/Rubbing Noises 05-075 December 21, 2005 Applies To: 2003-05 Element - ALL Front Seat-Back Makes a Squeaking, Chafing, or Rubbing Noise SYMPTOM You hear a squeaking, chafing, or rubbing noise when you push on the middle of the seat-back or on the side bolsters. PROBABLE CAUSE There are three possible causes for the noise: ^ The seat-back foam rubs against the front edge of the side of the seat frame. ^ The two top seat cover springs rub against the seat frame. ^ On vehicles with side airbags, there may be interference between the zig-zag spring and an improperly routed side airbag cover mounting hook. CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply wool felt to the front edge of both sides of the seat frame and around both ends of the seat frame rod and, on models equipped with side airbags, reposition the side airbag cover mounting hook. REQUIRED MATERIALS Wool Felt: P/N 06993-SA5-000, H/C 2086676 (One roll will repair approximately eight vehicles.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Page 3257 Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Engine Controls - Vehicle Moves Too Fast Idling In Gear PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls Vehicle Moves Too Fast Idling In Gear 06-041 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-05 Accord L4 - All with A/T *2003-05 Element - All with A/T* Vehicle Moves (Creeps) Faster Than Expected When Idling in Gear (Supersedes 06-041, dated July 18, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The vehicle moves slightly faster than expected with the transmission in gear, foot off the brake, and foot off the throttle. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM PGM-FI software causes extra engine torque after a cold start. CORRECTIVE ACTION Update the PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Page 4010 Page 6682 - Select Settings. - Select About. ^ iPod reset procedure: http://docs.info.apple.com/ article.html?artnum=61705 Resources for Installation Instructions Online, enter the model and year, enter the keyword MUSIC LINK, and select the appropriate installation instructions. Music Link First-Use Information After installing the Music Link kit, switch the audio unit to AUX (auxiliary) mode and verify the audio unit displays CDC EJECT or CD4 EJECT. Connect the iPod to the Music Link connector. Make sure the check mark is displayed on the iPod display screen and that you hear music. ^ The Music Link disc supplied in the kit contains the TTS software and the User's Guide. It is for home computer use only. ^ The customer needs to load the TTS software/User's Guide on his/her home computer in order for all of the search functions (Disc 1-4) to operate. ^ Only the shuffle functions (Disc 5-6) will operate without the TTS software installed (see the Quick Reference Guide). ^ For the search functions (Disc 1-4) to operate properly, TTS software must be run after any songs are changed (added or removed) on the iPod. ^ You can change the Disc position on most audio units by using the Disc - (preset number 5) and Disc + (preset number 6). Always refer to the User's Guide for proper operation. iPod Reset Procedure Information The iPod reset procedure applies to these Apple iPod models: ^ Fifth-generation or later iPod (also known as iPod with video) ^ iPod nano(R) ^ iPod with color display (iPod photo) ^ iPod mini(R) NOTE: To view this information online, log on to http//docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=6 1705 To reset the customer's iPod: 1. Cycle the Hold switch on and off (slide it to Hold, then turn it off again). 2. Press and hold the Menu and Select buttons for 6-10 seconds until the Apple logo appears. NOTE: If you are having difficulty resetting the iPod, set it on a flat surface. As you press the Select button, make sure your finger does not touch any part of the click wheel. Also make sure that you press the Menu button toward the outside of the click wheel and not near the center. 3. If the above steps do not work, try connecting the iPod to a power adapter and plug the power adapter into an electrical outlet, or connect the iPod to your computer. Make sure the computer is on and isn't set to sleep mode. BEFORE TROUBLESHOOTING ^ Before troubleshooting, ask the customer these questions: - What is the main issue? - What model and generation iPod do you have? Refer to www.apple.com. - What version iPod firmware (unit software) is loaded? ^ Go to the Main Menu. ^ Select Settings. Page 5447 Multiple Junction Connector: Diagrams 190. C107 (Junction Connector) 191. C456 (Junction Connector) Page 2189 Thermostat: Testing and Inspection Test Replace the thermostat if it is open at room temperature. To test a closed thermostat: 1. Suspend the thermostat (A) in a container of water. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the bottom of the hot container. 2. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Check the temperature at which the thermostat first opens, and at which it is fully open. 3. Measure the lift height of the thermostat when it is fully open. Standard Thermostat Lift height: above 8.0 mm (0.31 inch) Starts opening: 169 - 176°F (76 - 80°C) Fully open: 194°F (90°C) Locations 137. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 7371 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 5090 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 8327 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 4212 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Have an assistant press the clutch pedal while you grasp the clutch line at the clutch master cylinder, and then at the slave cylinder. If you feel a vibration through the clutch line when you hear the noise or the noise stops, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. If you feel no vibration or the noise does not stop, look for other causes. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTICE Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Remove the clutch master cylinder. Refer to the appropriate service manual: 2003-04 Accord (L4): page 12-6 2003-04 Accord (V6): page 12-8 2001-04 Civic: page 12-5 2002-04 Civic Si: page 12-5 2003-04 Civic Hybrid: page 13-5 2002-04 CR-V: page 12-5 2003-04 Element: page 12-6 Enter keyword CLUTCH MASTER, and select Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement from the list. 2. Install the new clutch master cylinder, but do not attach the clutch line fitting. 3. Apply a thin coat of silicone grease to the clutch line fitting and to the opening in the clutch master cylinder. Do not use silicone spray; it could damage the 0-ring. 4. Connect the clutch line fitting to the clutch master cylinder. 5. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system, then top off the reservoir with brake fluid. 6. Check to see if the noise is gone when pressing the clutch pedal. ^ If the noise is gone, the repair is complete. Page 3346 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 2294 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 866 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Locations 111. Middle Side Of Hatch Page 135 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 6777 Page 8288 Brake Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Wiring Diagrams Diagram 110-7 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Page 3184 Canister Purge Control Valve: Description and Operation EVAP Canister Purge Valve When the engine coolant temperature is below 131 °F (55 °C), the ECM/PCM turns off the EVAP canister purge valve which cuts vacuum to the EVAP canister. Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Locations Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 6619 2003-04 Accord DX with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Element with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot EX models with factory-installed security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 91-93 Accord 5-D00R EX Locations Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Locations 25. Transmission Housing 125. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 2108 10. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the dashboard wire harness, the air mix control motor, the evaporator temperature sensor, the power transistor, the mode control motor, the blower motor, and the recirculation control motor, then remove the wire harness clips (B), the connector clips (C), the wire harness (D) the heater duct (E) and the clip (F). Disconnect the drain hose (G),then remove the mounting nuts and the blower-heater unit (H). 11. Remove the self-tapping screws and the expansion valve cover (A). With air conditioning; carefully pull out the evaporator core (B) so you don't bend the inlet and outlet pipes. Remove the self-tapping screws and the flange cover (C), then remove the grommet (D), and carefully pull out the heater core (E) so you don't bend the inlet and outlet pipes. 12. Install the heater core and the evaporator core (with A/C) in the reverse order of removal. 13. Install the heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose clamps securely. - Refill the cooling system with engine coolant. - Be sure to connect the drain hose securely. - Adjust the heater valve cable. - Make sure that there is no coolant leakage. - Make sure that there is no air leakage. - With air conditioning, refer to evaporator core replacement. Page 3960 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Front Impact Sensor Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Front Impact Sensor Front Impact Sensor Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector , the front passenger's airbag 4P connector, both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors, and both seat belt buckle 4P connectors. 3. Remove the front inner fender. 4. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (A), remove the two Torx bolts (B) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the front impact sensor(C). Installation 1. Install the new front impact sensor with new Torx bolts (A), then connect the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact sensor(C). 2. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 3. After installing the front impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 872 (A/T) Locations 6. Front Of Engine Compartment Service and Repair Sunroof / Moonroof Drain: Service and Repair Frame and Drain Tube Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove these items: - Skylight - Headliner 2. Disconnect the drain tubes (A). 3. With an assistant holding the frame (B), remove the bolts, then remove the frame. 4. Carefully remove the frame through the hatch opening. Take care not to scratch the interior trim and body, or tear the seat cover. 5. Remove these items: - Rear side trim panel - Rear seat belt retractor and seat belt protector 6. Remove the drain valve (A) from the body, and disconnect the front drain tube (B) and rear drain tube (C). 7. Detach the clips (D) securing the rear drain tube, then pull the tube out. 8. Tie a string to the end of the front drain tube, then pull the tube down out of the C-pillar. Campaign - Warranty Extension for The Windshield Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - Warranty Extension for The Windshield 06-084 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2003-04 Element - ALL Warranty Extension: 2003-04 Element Windshield (Supersedes 06-084, dated November 22, 2008) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND Under the terms of a class action settlement, American Honda is announcing a warranty extension for 2003-04 Element windshields. The windshields on these vehicles are now covered for cracking (under most conditions) for 6 years or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. *NOTE: Because of a different class action settlement unrelated to the windshield, the warranty extension coverage for windshields on affected vehicles purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 6 years or 63,000 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Customers were notified of the warranty extension through a letter sent to them by Gilardi Co., LLC. The text of the letter is shown above. Customer reimbursement forms are only available at the Gilardi website www.gilardi.com/hondaelement. Customers must send their request for reimbursement directly to Gilardi Co. within the timeline set by the court. Under the terms of the settlement, Honda dealerships cannot make reimbursements. Page 820 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 3702 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS software onto the iN workstation. 2. Restart the CM Update application on the iN workstation. 3. On the right side of the screen, click on the tools button. 4. Click on HIM Self-Test Procedure. 5. Follow the on-screen instructions to run the HIM self-test. 6. If the self-test indicates a problem with the HIM, call the Special Tools hotline for repair instructions. Disclaimer Page 7207 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 2601 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate B. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate B in the reverse order of removal. Page 6695 DVD Player: Technical Service Bulletins Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair 06-001 February 26, 2010 Applies To: 1998 and Later Models - ALL Audio, Navigation, and RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange and Out-of-Warranty Repair (Supersedes 06-601, dated March 4, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR, the address for Pioneer Electronics Service was changed.* COVERAGE This bulletin applies to all Honda audio units, CD players/changers, cassette tape players, navigation units, and rear entertainment system (RES) units, both in warranty and out of warranty. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT POLICY Use only remanufactured components for warranty repairs on customer vehicles. Follow the warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin. ^ Remanufactured audio, navigation, and RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs. ^ Use new components to repair new, unsold vehicles. ^ A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured component is currently unavailable from American Honda. ^ You must receive authorization from your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) before ordering a new component. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: From the Flat Rate Manual Flat Rate Time: From the Flat Rate Manual Failed Part: Use the RM part number from the repair order without the RM (example: 08A06-341-110) Defect Code: From the Flat Rate Manual Symptom Code: From Audio Customer Contention Codes in the Flat Rate Manual Part used for repair: Use the RM part number from the repair order (example: 08A06-341-110RM) IN-WARRANTY DIAGNOSIS Service Advisor: Interview the customer to get as much information as possible. Information like where and when the problem occurs is vital to your diagnosis. This information also helps you to determine if the audio, navigation, or RES system is operating normally, or if a problem exists. Write the complaint on the repair order. NOTE: For CD/DVD related problems, you must verify if the customer used discs with adhesive labels. Service Technician: Page 2876 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Page 2869 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 852 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Interlock Switch Test 1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector (A). 2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. - If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch interlock switch. - If OK, install the clutch interlock switch and adjust the pedal height. Page 2275 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 2 Page 2669 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 2841 Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Oxygen Sensor Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the three way catalytic converter (TWC), and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output; the sensor has an internal heater. The ECM/PCM compares the HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is located on the TWC. Page 8531 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 3687 NOTE: If the Database Update is an earlier version than the one listed in a Honda service communication (service bulletin, product update, iN message, etc.), press ESC, then update your MVCI before continuing. 6. Wait for the MVCI to check the vehicle for reprogrammable systems. This may take up to 90 seconds. 7. If there are multiple reprogrammable systems that need to be updated, select the applicable system. Press ENTER to continue, or press ESC to exit. 8. The current program ID, the recommended update, and other details appear. Press ENTER to continue, or press ESC to exit. Page 2266 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (Part 1) Page 302 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Initializing the OPDS Unit Initializing the OPDS (Occupant Position Detection System) Unit with HDS When a seat-back cover, seat-back cushion, and/or OPDS unit is replaced, initialize the OPDS by following the procedure. NOTE: A new (uninitialized) OPDS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 15-1. 1. Erase the DTC memory (see "Erasing the DTC Memory"). 2. Make sure the front passenger's seat is dry. Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 3. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 6. From the HDS Main Menu, select SRS, Misc Test, and Adjustments. Then select OPDS INIT to initialize the OPDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. NOTE: If the OPDS system fails to initialize after several attempts, replace the OPDS sensor and retry. If the OPDS system continues to fail to initialize, replace the OPDS unit. Initializing the OPDS (Occupant Position Detection System) Unit with Manual Mode Special Tools Required SCS service connector 07PAZ-0010100 When a seat-back cover, seat-back cushion, and/or OPDS unit is replaced, initialize the OPDS by following the procedure. NOTE: A new (uninitialized) OPDS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 15-1. 1. Erase the DTC memory (see "Erasing the DTC Memory"). 2. Make sure the front passenger's seat is dry. Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 3. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 5. From the HDS Main Menu, select SRS. In the PROGRAM MENU of the HDS, select SCS. Page 7495 Doors - Component Location Index - Front Door Part 2 Page 7073 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 3238 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Locations Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 4080 Specifications Clutch Fluid: Specifications Fluid type * ........................................................................................................................................... ....................... Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid *If Honda fluid is not available, use only DOT 3 or 4 from a sealed container as a temporary replacement. However, the use of any non-Honda brake fluid cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system. Page 3529 Shift Solenoid: Diagrams 13. Shift Control Solenoid Valve A (A/T) 14. Shift Control Solenoid Valve B (A/T) 15. Shift Control Solenoid Valve C (A/T) Page 8146 Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair How to Reset Press and hold the trip/reset button, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and continue to hold the button for more than 10 seconds. Page 3926 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 7522 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 1853 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components Air-bags The SRS is a safety device which, when used with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and front passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including safing sensor and impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C), the front passenger's airbag (D), seat belt tensioners (1), seat belt buckle tensioners (J), and front impact sensors (K). Since the driver's and front passenger's airbags use the same sensors, both normally inflate at the same time. However, it is possible for only one airbag to inflate. This can occur when the severity of a collision is at the margin, or threshold, that determines whether or not the airbags will deploy. In such cases, the seat belt will provide sufficient protection, and the supplemental protection offered by the airbag would be minimal. Side Airbags The side airbags (E) are in each front seat-back. They help protect the upper torso of the driver or front seat passenger during a moderate to severe side impact. Side impact sensors (F) in each door sill and in the SRS unit detect such an impact and instantly inflate the driver's or the passenger's side airbag. Only one side airbag will deploy during a side impact. If the impact is on the passenger's side, the passenger's side airbag will deploy even if there is no passenger. Seat Belt and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners The seat belt and seat belt buckle tensioners are linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioners instantly retract the belt and buckle firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. OPDS The side airbag system also includes an occupant position detection system (OPDS). This system consists of sensors (G) and a OPDS unit (H) in the front passenger's seat-back. The OPDS unit sends occupant height and position data to the SRS unit. If the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger is of small stature (for example, a child) and the front passenger is leaning into the side airbag deployment path, the SRS unit will automatically disable the passenger's side airbag. The SRS unit will also disable the airbag when the OPDS detects certain objects on the seat. When the side airbag is disabled, the side airbag cutoff indicator on the instrument panel alerts the driver that the passenger's side airbag will not deploy in a side impact. When the object is removed, or the passenger sits upright, the side airbag cutoff indicator will go off after a few seconds, alerting the driver that the passenger's side airbag will deploy in a side impact. Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: Customer Interest Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 2773 142. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 & 2 Page 5575 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 6673 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 7187 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. Page 928 Page 2206 Catalytic Converter: Description and Operation Catalytic Converter System Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) The TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen (N2), and water vapor. Page 4867 7. Remove the forward brake shoe by removing the lower return shrine (A) and adjuster assembly (B). 8. Remove the rearward brake shoe by disconnecting the parking brake cable (A) from the parking brake lever (B). 9. Remove the U-clip (A), wave washer (B), parking brake lever (C), and pivot pin (D) from the brake shoe. Reassembly Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 6591 On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number from one of the original transmitters. If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500) 552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time). You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be applied to the order. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 94-97 Accord 5-Door EX, 95-98 Odyssey EX 1994-97 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1995-98 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: ^ The system accepts up to two transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.) 3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will exit the programming mode.) 4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode. 5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of programming the first transmitter. 7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 96-04 Accord, CRV, DelSOL, Ody., Prelude, S2000, Insight, Pilot 1996-02 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1998-02 Accord DX & LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system Page 394 101. Left Quarter Panel Page 1198 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 2744 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter Noise Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust System - Catalytic Converter Noise SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Catalytic Converter Noise? Check the Heat Shield APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that buzzes or rattles, and you suspect the catalytic converter is the culprit? Before you start replacing the converter, first check the heat shield area. If there any stones or debris trapped inside, they can cause buzzing or rattling. Page 6499 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 4195 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Have an assistant press the clutch pedal while you grasp the clutch line at the clutch master cylinder, and then at the slave cylinder. If you feel a vibration through the clutch line when you hear the noise or the noise stops, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. If you feel no vibration or the noise does not stop, look for other causes. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTICE Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Remove the clutch master cylinder. Refer to the appropriate service manual: 2003-04 Accord (L4): page 12-6 2003-04 Accord (V6): page 12-8 2001-04 Civic: page 12-5 2002-04 Civic Si: page 12-5 2003-04 Civic Hybrid: page 13-5 2002-04 CR-V: page 12-5 2003-04 Element: page 12-6 Enter keyword CLUTCH MASTER, and select Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement from the list. 2. Install the new clutch master cylinder, but do not attach the clutch line fitting. 3. Apply a thin coat of silicone grease to the clutch line fitting and to the opening in the clutch master cylinder. Do not use silicone spray; it could damage the 0-ring. 4. Connect the clutch line fitting to the clutch master cylinder. 5. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system, then top off the reservoir with brake fluid. 6. Check to see if the noise is gone when pressing the clutch pedal. ^ If the noise is gone, the repair is complete. Page 7757 Power Mirror Switch: Service and Repair Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector from the power mirror switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the switch. Page 2288 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Updating the ECM/PCM ECM/PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not already have the latest software loaded. NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the ECM/PCM can be damaged. How to Update the ECM/PCM NOTE: - To ensure the latest program is installed, do an ECM/PCM update whenever the ECM/PCM is substituted or replaced. - You can not update an ECM/PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. - Before you update the ECM/PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. - To prevent ECM/PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power windows, door locks, etc.) during the update. - If you need to diagnose the Honda Interface Module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent ECM/PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS or Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of dashboard. 3. Do the ECM/PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label and in the ECM/PCM update system. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure, if you did the trouble shooting for DTC P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0335, or P0339. How to Substitute the ECM/PCM 1. Remove the ECM/PCM from the vehicle. 2. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the vehicle. 3. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure from the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS; It allows you to start the engine. 4. After completing your tests, reinstall the original ECM/PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure on the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Page 972 30. ATF Temperature Sensor (A/T) Page 6871 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 8551 Page 8690 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid valve A terminal. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve moves. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A body. Page 4745 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 2307 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 3596 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Crankshaft Inspection Crankshaft: Testing and Inspection Crankshaft Inspection Out-of-Round and Taper 1. Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block. 2. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush. 3. Clean the keyway and threads. 4. Measure out-of round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Out-of-Round Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) 5. Measure taper at the edges of each rod and main journal. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Taper Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) Straightness 6. Place the cylinder block on the surface plate. 7. Clean and install the bearings on the No.1 and No.5 journals of the cylinder block. 8. Lower the crankshaft into the block. 9. Measure runout on all main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Crankshaft Total Runout Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.04 mm (0.0016 inch) Page 2545 Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 5188 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 8000 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 6162 Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 920 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 2225 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 3807 Shift Solenoid: Diagrams 13. Shift Control Solenoid Valve A (A/T) 14. Shift Control Solenoid Valve B (A/T) 15. Shift Control Solenoid Valve C (A/T) Page 698 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Page 8392 Diagram 114-3 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Front Suspension Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Front Suspension Damper/Spring Replacement Special Tools Required Ball joint thread protector, 07AAF-SDAA100 Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 Removal 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the front wheels. Page 823 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 4940 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 5356 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 4713 Wheel Speed Sensor: Diagrams 84. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front (EX) 85. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Rear (EX) 86. Wheel Speed Sensor, Right Front (EX) Page 4096 Page 8093 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 2724 Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Description and Operation Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve To maintain the proper idle speed, the IAC valve changes the amount of air bypassing the throttle body in response to an electrical signal from the ECM/PCM. Page 1542 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 1297 Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications M/T Fluid Type ........................................................................................................................................ Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF): P/N 08798-9016 If Honda MTF is not available, use an SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 motor oil with an API Certification Seal that says "FOR GASOLINE ENGINES" as a temporary replacement. However, motor oil does not contain the proper additives, and continued use can cause stiffer shifting. Page 3483 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 6817 Page 785 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 6789 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Service and Repair Evaporator Core: Service and Repair Evaporator Core Replacement 1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the bolt, then disconnect the suction line (A) and the receiver line (B) from the evaporator core. 3. Remove the blower unit. 4. Remove the bolt and the ECM/PCM bracket (A). Remove the self-tapping screws and the expansion valve cover (B). 5. Carefully pull out the evaporator core without bending the pipes. 6. Install the core in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - If you're installing a new evaporator core, add refrigerant oil (DENSO ND-OIL 8). - Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. - Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. - Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately. - Make sure that there is no air leakage. - Charge the system. Service and Repair Parking Brake Shoe: Service and Repair Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Disassembly 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the rear wheels. 2. Release the parking brake, and remove the rear brake caliper and brake disc/drum. 3. Disconnect and remove the upper return springs (A). 4. Remove the tension pins (A) by pushing the retainer springs (B) and turning the pins. 5. Disconnect the rod spring (A), and remove the connecting rod (B). 6. Lower the parking brake shoe assembly. Page 6317 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 3909 Mainshaft Sensor: Service and Repair Mainshaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the mainshaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the mainshaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the mainshaft speed sensor, and install the mainshaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Page 3731 GNA600: (No longer available for purchase) Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Fuse Block: Customer Interest Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 3350 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 748 109. VSS (M/T) Page 23 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 1503 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (c) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E) with a plastic hammer while drawing the knuckle outward, then remove the knuckle. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the knuckle. - Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. - First install all the components and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values. Do not place the jack against the ball joint pin of the lower arm. - Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it. - Install a new lock pin on the castle nut after torquing. - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Replace the self-locking nuts, damper pinch bolts and nuts with new ones. - Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of the brake disc. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. - Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Wheel Bearing Replacement 1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. 2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. Locations Page 4876 10. Parking Brake Switch Page 159 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 5854 3. Remove the snap ring (A) and the splash guard (B) from the knuckle (C). 4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (c), a steel plate (D), the special tool, and a press. NOTE: (with ABS): Install the wheel bearing with the magnetic encoder (E) (brown color) toward the inside of the knuckle. - Remove any oil, grease, dust metal debris, or other foreign material from the encoder surface. - Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. - Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing. Page 2681 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 6891 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 6237 Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Service and Repair Cable Reel Replacement Removal 1. Make sure the front wheels are aligned straight ahead. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the driver's airbag. 4. Disconnect the connector (A) from the cruise control set/resume switch, then remove the steering wheel bolt (B). 5. With the front wheels still straight ahead, remove the steering wheel with a steering wheel puller. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when removing the steering wheel. 6. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover (A). Restraints - Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Missing Child Seat: Customer Interest Restraints - Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Missing 05-016 May 17, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Is Missing PROBLEM The small button on the rear seat-back cover that marks the location of each child seat LATCH lower anchor is missing. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2001-05 Accord - ALL 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2003-05 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2002-05 Civic Si - ALL 2001-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-05 Element - ALL 2001-05 Odyssey - ALL 2003-05 Pilot - ALL CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the button. NOTE: Older vehicles have buttons without a child seat icon. The buttons in newer vehicles and the replacement buttons all have an icon. If your customer requests matching buttons, replace all the buttons at the same time as a set. PARTS INFORMATION Child Seat ISOFIX Button Kit: (Kit contains buttons in nine different colors; 10 buttons of each color.) P/N 070AZ-SHJA190, H/C 7979016 Child Seat ISOFIX Button Kit Replacement Parts: Page 4978 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 7846 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 7143 4. Close the tailgate half-way and hold it there to loosen the tailgate support cables (A) on both sides. Pull up on the bottom edge-of the trim panel (B) and pass the cables under the trim panel on each side. 5. Pull the trim panel (A) out to release the pins (B) of the trim panel and the tailgate handle lever (C), then remove the trim panel. 6. Install the trim panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Make sure the tailgate handle lever is slipped through the slit of the trim panel properly. - Push the clips into place securely. Rear Door Latch Synchronizer Replacement Rear Door Latch: Service and Repair Rear Door Latch Synchronizer Replacement Rear Door Latch Synchronizer Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover, as necessary - Door handle 2. Disconnect the upper latch cable (A) and lower latch cable (B) from the latch synchronizer (C). 3. Detach the inner handle cable clip (D). 4. Remove the bolts (A), and loosen the bolts (B), then remove the latch synchronizer (C) through the hole in the door. 5. Install the latch synchronizer in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure each cable and rod is connected securely. - Make sure the door locks and opens properly. If necessary, adjust the upper latch cable and lower latch cable. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 1685 Crankshaft: Testing and Inspection End Play Inspection Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection 1. Remove the oil pump. 2. Remove the baffle plates. 3. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft. Connecting Rod End Play Standard (New): 0.15 - 0.35 mm (0.006 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit: 0.40 mm (0.016 inch) 4. If the connecting rod end play is out-of-tolerance, install a new connecting rod, and recheck. If it is still out-of-tolerance; replace the crankshaft. 5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit. Crankshaft End Play Standard (New): 0.10 - 0.35 mm (0.004 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 inch) 6. If the end play is out-of-tolerance, replace the thrust washers and recheck, if it is still out-of-tolerance, replace the crankshaft. Page 1032 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 6200 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing a front airbag, side airbag, or other SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel, the front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, the seat belt buckle tensioners, and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors or the side airbag connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector A (1) from the SRS unit, disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3), the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (4), the driver's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (6), and the front passenger's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (7). - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B (8) from the SRS unit, disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (11, 12), and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (9, 10). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (2), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3). - Before disconnecting the floor wire harness 4P connector (5), disconnect both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (6, 7). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. Driver's Airbag Page 6168 Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 4976 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 5714 Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Removal SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures before performing repairs or service. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the customer's radio station presets. 2. Align the front wheels straight ahead, then remove the driver's airbag from the steering wheel. 3. Disconnect the cruise control set/resume/cancel switch connector (A) and horn switch connector (B). 4. Loosen the steering wheel bolt (c). 5. Install a commercially available steering wheel puller (A) on the steering wheel (B). Free the steering wheel from the steering column shaft by turning the pressure bolt (C) of the puller. Note these items when removing the steering wheel: ^ Do not tap on the steering wheel or the steering column shaft when removing the steering wheel. ^ If you thread the puller bolts (D) into the wheel hub more than five threads, the bolts will hit the cable reel and damage it. To prevent this, install a pair of jam nuts five threads up on each puller bolt. 6. Remove the steering wheel puller, then remove the steering wheel bolt and steering wheel from the steering column. Page 1553 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 235 Engine Control Module: Connector Views 204. ECM/PCM Page 7402 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 5096 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Capacity Specifications Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications A/T Fluid Change 4WD ....................................................................................................................................... ........................................................................... 3.3 Qt (3.1L) 2WD ................................................... .............................................................................................................................................................. 3.1 Qt (2.9L) Total 4WD ............................................................................................................................................ ..................................................................... 7.6 Qt (7.2L) 2WD ......................................................... ........................................................................................................................................................ 6.9 Qt (6.5L) Page 2551 9. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 10. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 11. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Without the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Remove the glove box, then remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. NOTE: If any DTCs are stored, clear and ignore them. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel fill cap, and relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. 7. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Page 6782 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 4699 Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation ABS Control Unit Main Control The ABS control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel sensor signal it received, then it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed. The control unit detects the vehicle speed during deceleration based on the rate of deceleration. The ABS control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel, and transmits the control signal to the modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high. The hydraulic control has three modes: pressure reducing, pressure retaining, and pressure intensifying. Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) Control The Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) function helps control vehicle braking by adjusting the rear brake force before the ABS operates. Based on wheel sensor signals, the ABS control unit uses the modulator to control the rear brakes individually. When the rear wheel speed is less than the front wheel speed, the ABS control unit retains the current rear brake fluid pressure by closing the inlet valve in the modulator. As the rear wheel speed increases and approaches the front wheel speed, the control unit increases the rear brake fluid pressure by momentarily opening the inlet valve. This whole process is repeated very rapidly. While this is happening, there may be kickback at the brake pedal. During self-diagnosis, if the ABS control unit detects a problem that affects the EBD, it turns on the brake system indicator and the ABS indicator. Self-diagnosis Function 1. The ABS control unit is equipped with a CPU and a monitor IC. They check each other for problems. 2. The CPU checks the system circuits. 3. The ABS control unit turns on the ABS and possibly the brake system indicator when the unit detects a problem, and the unit stops ABS operation. 4. The self-diagnosis can be classified into these two categories: ^ Initial diagnosis ^ Regular diagnosis On-board Diagnosis Function The ABS can be diagnosed with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. The ALB Checker cannot be used with this system. For air bleeding, and checking wheel sensor signals, use the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. See the Honda PGM Tester user's manual or HDS help menu for specific operating instructions. Page 2918 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Part 2 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Front Grille Replacement Grille: Service and Repair Front Grille Replacement Front Grille Replacement 1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Remove the screws (A), and detach the clips (B), and release the hooks (C), then remove the front grille (D) from the front bumper by pulling it out. Take care not to scratch the front bumper. 3. Install the grille in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Make sure the hooks of the grille engage the bumper securely. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 6704 - The name as it appears on the credit card - Signature (authorized card holder) - Phone number - Authorized charge amount NOTE: If you send in a faulty unit without a check or complete credit card information, the manufacturer may send it back to you unrepaired, or they may repair it and send it back to you C.O.D. ^ Print two copies of the completed Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form. Keep one copy with the repair order, and include the other copy with the faulty unit when you send it to the manufacturer. 8. Carefully pack the faulty unit and the paperwork in a suitable box, and label the box clearly. You are responsible for lost or damaged units; keep all shipping documents and insurance receipts. 9. Ship the faulty unit to the appropriate manufacturer via UPS. Alpine Electronics of America c/o Standard Radio Engineering Corp. 2012 Abalone Ave., Unit D Torrance, CA 90501 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304 Bose Corporation Automotive Systems Division-Service Framingham, MA 01701-9168 800-231-2673 S3 Clarion Factory Service Center 241 Beaver Rd. Walton, KY 41094 800-347-8667 (You must get authorization from Clarion before shipping units) Fujitsu Ten 19600 5. Vermont Ave. Torrance, CA 90502 800-237-5413 FTH Group Inc. (Kenwood Accessory Parts) 16685 E. Johnson Dr. City of Industry, CA 91745 626-333-2435 (You must get an RMA authorization number from www.fthgroupinc.com; from the home page, select Consumer Products) Komtec Electronics (Panasonic) 6590 Darin Way Cypress, CA 90630 714-903-3300 (Make sure your check is made out to Komtec) * Pioneer Electronics Service, Inc. 1925 E. Dominguez St. Long Beach, CA 90801 800-553-3756* Visteon c/o Model Electronics 615 E. Crescent Ave. Page 5897 Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub disassembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 - Driver 07749-0010000 - Support base 07965-SD90100 Knuckle Replacement 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Page 2039 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 3595 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 7832 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Page 7975 Page 1996 NOTE: - Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001). Using a non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. - Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Do not add water. Engine Coolant Refill Capacity [including the reserve tank capacity of 0.6 l (0.6 US qt)]: M/T: 5.1 - (5.4 US qt) A/T: 5.0 - (5.3 US qt) 8. Install the radiator cap loosely. 9. Start the engine, and let it run until it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at least twice). 10. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator and add Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 if needed. 11. Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run the engine again and check for leaks. Page 2629 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 8092 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 1123 Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Control System When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the ECM/PCM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve to maintain the correct idle speed. Refer to the System Diagram to see the functional layout of the system. Idle Control System Diagram The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve: - After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain amount of time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed. - When the engine coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation to engine coolant temperature. Page 8113 Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Diagram Information and Instructions Trailer Connector: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1343 2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (B) from the cable reel. Front Passenger's Airbag 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from dashboard wire harness B. Side Airbag 4. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner Page 5753 13. Press out the compliance bushing from the lower arm using the bushing driver, the bushing receiver set, and a hydraulic press. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the inside of the bushing opening on the lower arm. 14. Clean the mating surfaces of the new compliance bushing and the lower arm. 15. Align the arrows of the new bushing with the mark made in step 2, then press the bushing into the lower arm using the bushing driver, the bushing receiver set, and a hydraulic press. 16. Repeat steps 3 thru 15 on the other lower arm. 17. Reinstall the front lower arms, and note these items: ^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then lower the vehicle to the ground to load the suspension before fully tightening the fasteners to the specified torque. ^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the lower arm to the knuckle. ^ Before connecting the knuckle ball joint to the lower arm, degrease the threaded section and tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section, and the mating surfaces of the castle nut. ^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it. Page 6329 Page 6875 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 3560 Countershaft Sensor: Description and Operation Countershaft Speed Sensor This sensor detects countershaft speed. Page 8363 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 5773 8. Install the brake hose mounting bracket (A). Page 37 Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair ABS Modulator-Control Unit Removal and Installation NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation. ^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or equivalent material. Removal 1. Push in the locking tab (A) and pull up the lock (B) of the ABS control unit 47P connector (C), and the connector disconnects itself. 2. Disconnect the six brake lines. 3. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit/bracket (D/E) from the body. 4. Remove the two 6 mm shoulder bolts and 6 mm bolt from the bracket, then remove the ABS modulator-control unit from the bracket. Installation 1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit on the bracket, then tighten the two 6 mm shoulder bolts and 6 mm bolt. 2. Install the ABS modulator-control unit bracket on the body. 3. Align the connecting surface of the ABS control unit 47P connector. Page 1338 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to the impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit, respectively, will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: Seat Belt Tensioners and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners 1. A front impact sensor must activate and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the tensioners. 3. The charges must ignite and deploy the tensioners. Driver's and Front Passenger's Airbag(s) 1. A front impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals, and depending on the severity of the collision and whether the seat belt buckle switch is ON or OFF, it sends the appropriate signals to the airbag inflator(s). 3. The inflators that received signals must ignite and deploy the airbags. Side Airbag(s) 1. Aside impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the side airbag inflator(s). However, the microprocessor turns off the signals to the front passenger's side airbag if the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger's head is in the deployment path of the side airbag. 3. The inflator that received the signal must ignite and deploy the side airbag. Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the system is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after 6 seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the system. The system must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the SRS unit memory stores a DTC that relates to the cause of the malfunction, and the unit is connected to the data link circuit. This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS when it is connected to the data link connector (DLC). NOTE: If the battery negative cable is disconnected during troubleshooting, do the following: Before you disconnect the battery: Adjustments Front Door Striker: Adjustments Front Door Striker Adjustment Make sure the door latches securely without slamming it. If necessary, adjust the striker (A): The striker nuts are fixed, but the striker can be adjusted slightly up or down, and in or out. 1. Loosen the screws (B), then insert a shop towel (C) between the body and striker. 2. Lightly tighten the screws. 3. Wrap the striker with a shop towel, then adjust the striker by tapping it with a plastic hammer (D). Do not tap the striker too hard. 4. Loosen the screws, and remove the shop towel. 5. Lightly tighten the screws. 6. Hold the outer handle out, and push the door against the body to be sure the striker allows a flush fit. If the door latches properly, tighten the screws and recheck. Page 129 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Tailgate Latch Switch Test Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Tailgate Latch Switch Test Tailgate Latch Switch Test 1. Open the tailgate and remove the tailgate trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the each tailgate latch switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the each tailgate latch switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the tailgate open. - There should be no continuity with the tailgate closed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 2040 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 7090 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Service and Repair Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair Lift and Support Points NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as suspension or the fuel tank from the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands. When substantial weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change and cause the vehicle to tip forward on the hoist. Frame Hoist 1. Position the hoist lift blocks (A), or safety stands, under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C). 2. Raise the hoist a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 3. Raise the hoist to full height, and inspect the lift points for solid contact with the lift blocks. Safety Stands To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a frame hoist. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only by a jack. Floor Jack 1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the rear of the vehicle, put the gearshift lever in reverse for manual transmission, or in [P] (park) for automatic transmission. 2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted. 3. Position the floor jack under the front jacking bracket (A) or rear jacking bracket (B), center the jacking bracket in the jack lift platform (C), and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it. 4. Position the safety stands under the support points and adjust them so the vehicle is level. Diagrams Speaker: Diagrams 69. Speaker, Driver's Door 70. Speaker, Front Passenger's Door 71. Speaker, Left Rear Door Page 6941 YES - Count the blinks, then go to step 7. NO - Go to step 8. 7. About 1 second after you go into self-diagnosis Mode 1, the ceiling light will indicate the DTC, and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there is more than one DTC, the system will indicate them in ascending order, beginning from the DTC with the lowest numerical value. Troubleshoot the DTCs as indicated below: DTC 1, 2, and 3 (ECM/PCM P0600) simultaneously: Check for a short to body ground in the YEL wire between multiplex control unit terminal E10 and ECM/PCM terminal E13, and in the WHT/GRN wire between multiplex control unit terminal K10 and gauge assembly terminal B10. If both wires are OK, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit, gauge assembly, and ECM/PCM one at a time, in that order, and recheck for the DTCs after each substitution. - DTC 2 and 5 simultaneously: Check for an open in the YEL wire between multiplex control unit terminal E10 and ECM/PCM terminal E13, If the wire is OK, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit, gauge assembly, and ECM/PCM one at a time, in that order, and recheck for the DTCs after each substitution. - DTC 1, and 6 simultaneously: Check for an open in the WHT/GRN wire between multiplex control unit terminal K10 and gauge assembly terminal B10. If the wire is OK, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit, gauge assembly, and ECM/PCM one at a time, in that order, and recheck for the DTCs after each substitution. - DTC 1 only (no other DTCs present): Substitute a known-good gauge assembly and a multiplex control unit one at a time, in that order, and recheck for the DTCs after each substitution. - DTC 2 only (no other DTCs present): Substitute a known-good multiplex control unit and a ECM/PCM one at a time, in that order, and recheck for the DTCs after each substitution. - DTC 3 only (no other DTCs present): Substitute a known-good multiplex control unit, and recheck for the DTC. - DTC 5 only (no other DTCs present): Substitute a known-good gauge assembly, and recheck for the DTC. - DTC 6 only (no other DTCs present): Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good ECM/ PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 8. From Mode 1, disconnect the special tool from the multiplex control inspection connector for about 5 to 10 seconds, then reconnect it. The ceiling light should come on for 2 seconds go out, then blink twice more at 0.2 second intervals. This means the system has gone from Mode 1 to Mode 2. NOTE: To cancel Mode 2, disconnect the SCS service connector from the multiplex control inspection connector for more than 10 seconds or turn the ignition switch OFF. Page 6448 3. Remove the center anchor bolt (A), and pull the seat belt buckle (B) out, then remove it. 4. Install the seat belt buckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Apply liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolt before reinstallation. - Make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt buckle. - Assemble the washers on the center anchor bolt as shown. Page 3608 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 5642 37. Install the pump preload spring (A) in the pump housing. 38. Coat the new 12.7 mm O-ring (B) with power steering fluid, and install it on the pump housing cap (C). 39. Install the pump housing cap on the pump housing, and tighten it to specified torque. 40. Install the pressure control valve spring (A) in the pump housing. 41. Coat the pressure control valve (B) with power steering fluid, and install it in the pump housing. 42. Coat the new 16.7 mm O-ring (c) with power steering fluid, and install it on the pressure control valve cap (D). 43. Install the pressure control valve cap on the pump housing, and tighten it to the specified torque. 44. Coat the new O-ring (A) with power steering fluid, and install it on the inlet joint (B). 45. Install the inlet joint on the pump housing. 46. Install the pulley (A), then loosely install the pulley nut (B). Hold the steering pump in a vise with soft jaws (C). Be careful not to damage the pump housing with the jaws of the vise. Page 4518 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Page 3117 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 419 179. Power Mirror Switch (EX; Canada: DX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 4754 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing Control Module: Service and Repair PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the PCM only if the PCM does not have the latest software loaded. Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the PCM can be damaged. Page 5400 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 5786 - Check the damper housing position, and check for damage. - If necessary, remove the wheelhouse upper member, and replace the front damper extension, damper housing, and damper housing extension as an assembly. Installation 1. Set the new damper housing assembly, front wheelhouse, and front bulkhead into position, and measure the front compartment diagonally.Check the body dimensions, engine compartment, engine/transmission mount positions , engine compartment and front floor under view. 2. Tack weld the new parts into position. 3. Temporarily install the front subframe, and check the front side frame position. 4. Temporarily install the hood, front fender,headlight, and front bumper, and check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body lines flow smoothly. Page 2520 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 2490 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 8399 82. Left Rear Door (Right Similar) Page 1056 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Page 5942 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 8615 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 6943 Body Control Systems: Testing and Inspection Sleep and Wake-Up Mode Test Sleep And Wake-up Mode Test 1. Shift to the sleep mode: Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the key. If the control unit receives no signals from the inputs listed, it will go into sleep mode in less than 40 seconds. 2. Confirm the sleep mode: - Check for voltage on the YEL or WHT/GRN wires. - There should be battery voltage in the sleep mode. Check the parasitic draw at the battery while shifting into the sleep mode. Amperage should change from about 200 mA to less than 35 mA. 3. Shift to the wake up mode: When the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the multiplex control unit, gauge assembly, and ECM/PCM wake up at the same time without "talking" to each other through the communication lines. When any switch in the multiplex system is turned on, it wakes up its related control unit which, in turn, wakes up the other units. After confirming the sleep mode, look in the table for the switch most closely related to the problem. Operate that switch and see if its control unit wakes up. NOTE: If any control unit is faulty and will not wake up, several circuit in the system will malfunction at the same time. In the table given, the control unit is followed by a list of the switches and input signals that can wake it up. Page 8413 220. Fog Light Switch (Honda Accessory) Page 1456 Relay Box: Service and Repair Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash fuse/relay box (A). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal, and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presents. 7. Confirm that all systems work properly. Page 1935 9. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 10. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 11. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Without the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Remove the glove box, then remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. NOTE: If any DTCs are stored, clear and ignore them. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel fill cap, and relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. 7. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: Recalls Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 4026 30. ATF Temperature Sensor (A/T) Page 2470 23. Left Side Of Engine Page 3359 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 7404 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Testing and Inspection Seat Belt Retractor: Testing and Inspection Inspection For front seat belt retractor with seat belt tensioner, review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Retractor 1. Before installing the retractor, check that the seat belt can be pulled out freely. 2. Make sure that the seat belt does not lock when the retractor (A) is leaned slowly up to 15 ° from the mounted position. The seat belt should lock when the retractor is leaned over 40 °. Do not attempt to disassemble the retractor. 3. Replace the seat belt with a new assembly if there is any abnormality. Do not disassemble any part of the seat belt for any reason. In-vehicle 1. Check that the seat belt is not twisted or caught on anything. 2. After installing the anchors, check for free movement on the anchor bolts. If necessary, remove the anchor bolts and check that the washers and other parts are not damaged or improperly installed. 3. Check the seat belts for damage or discoloration. Clean with a shop towel if necessary. Use only soap and water to clean. NOTE: Dirt build-up in the loops of the upper anchors can cause the seat belts to retract slowly. Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol. 4. Check that the seat belt does not lock when pulled out slowly. The seat belt is designed to lock only during a sudden stop or impact. 5. Make sure that the seat belt will retract automatically when released. 6. For front and rear passenger's seat belts, check the seat belt retractor locking mechanism ALR (automatic locking retractor). This function is for securing child seats: 1 Pull the seat belt all the way out to engage the ALR. The seat belt should retract with a ratcheting sound, but not extend. This is normal. - 2 To disengage the ALR, release the seat belt and allow it to fully retract, then pull the seat belt out part-way. The seat belt should retract and extend normally. 7. Replace the seat belt with a new assembly if there is any abnormality. Do not disassemble any part of the seat belt for any reason. Page 2388 9. Knock Sensor Page 4922 Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Wheel Sensors The wheel sensors are the magnetic contact-less type. The wheel sensors detect changing of magnetic polarity on the magnetic encoder contained inside the wheel bearings. The ABS control unit calculates the wheel speed based on signals received from the wheel sensor. NOTE: The wheel bearings are directional. When the wheel speed drops sharply below the vehicle speed, the outlet valve opens momentarily to reduce the caliper fluid pressure. The pump motor starts at this time. As the wheel speed is restored, the inlet valve opens momentarily to increase the caliper fluid pressure. Page 7738 20. Confirm that the problem is resolved. If the driver's seat still rocks, look for other causes. 21. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check the SRS indicator. If the indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then turns off, the SRS is OK. If the indicator stays on, check for codes, and do normal troubleshooting. 23. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio and your customer's radio station presets. Set the clock. 24. Initialize the driver's window auto-up feature: ^ Make sure the driver's window is fully closed. ^ Push down and hold the window switch until the window goes all the way down. ^ Pull back and hold the window switch until the window goes all the way up, then hold the switch for at least 2 more seconds. 25. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle fully closed with all electrical items off) for 10 minutes. Disclaimer Page 4507 7. Carefully remove the windshield. 8. With a knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in.) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. - Remove the rubber dam and fasteners from the body. 9. Clean the body bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the clean surface. 10. If the old windshield is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive, the rubber dam, and the dashboard seal from the windshield. Clean the inside face and the edge of the windshield with alcohol where new adhesive is to be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease. Page 718 56. PSP Switch Page 1534 12. Right Side Of Engine Diagrams 76. Test Tachometer Connector Page 263 68. Behind Glove Box Page 5568 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing airbag system service. Observe the instructions described, or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. - Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. - Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. - Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks, or deformation. - Before removing any SRS parts (including disconnection of connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. - Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. - Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. - The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code and write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before disconnecting the battery cable. - Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the radio code, then enter the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock. Do the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure and the power window control unit resetting procedure. Page 4716 Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Remove the appropriate front driveshaft or rear driveshaft. 2. Check the magnetic encoder after cleaning the encoder. If necessary, replace the front wheel bearing or rear wheel bearing. 3. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and the magnetic encoder all the way around while rotating the encoder. Standard: Front/Rear: 0.5 - 1.5 mm (0.02 - 0.06 inch) NOTE: ^ Install the wheel bearing with the magnetic encoder (brown color) toward the inside of the knuckle. ^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, or other foreign material from the encoder surface. ^ Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. ^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing. Page 8566 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 5641 34. Install the pump housing (A) over the cover assembly (B). 35. Align the bolt holes in the cover (A) with the threaded holes in the pump housing. Install the flange bolts loosely first, then torque the flange bolts in a cries-cross pattern in two or more steps. 36. Push in the cam ring (A) from the pump housing cap hole (B) with a flat-tip screwdriver to make sure the cam ring is fully seated against the outer case. Page 6784 Trailer Connector: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 2529 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. Page 2609 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor (A). 2. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 7373 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 4164 6. Replace the O-rings with new ones. Shift Solenoid Valves Installation NOTE: ^ Do not install the shift solenoid valve B before installing the shift solenoid valve E. If solenoid valve B is installed before solenoid valve E, it may damage the hydraulic control system. ^ Do not hold the shift solenoid valve connector to install it. Be sure to hold the shift solenoid valve body. 1. Install new O-rings (F) on each shift solenoid valve. NOTE: The new shift solenoid valve is equipped with new O-rings. If you install a new shift solenoid valve. there is no need to replace its Page 3929 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Diagrams Valve Body: Diagrams NOTE: The illustration shows the 4WD transmission; the 2WD is similar. Capacity Specifications Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications Engine oil For engine overhaul ............................................................................................................................. .............................................................. 5.3L (5.6 Qt) For oil change, including filter .............................................................................................................. ............................................................ 4.2L (4.4 Qt) For oil change, without filter ................................................................................................................. ............................................................ 4.0L (4.2 Qt) Page 2076 Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Radiator Fan Switch Replacement 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector (A), then remove the radiator fan switch (B). 4. Install the radiator fan switch with a new O-ring (c). 5. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Page 2999 97. FTP Sensor Page 6017 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 7585 Doors - Component Location Index - Front Door Part 1 Page 6775 Wire Color Codes Page 4146 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 8215 Fuel Gauge Sender: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. 1. Check the No.10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Do the gauge drive circuit check. - If the fuel gauge needle moves from the minimum to maximum position and then returns to the minimum position, the gauge is OK. Go to step 3. - If the fuel gauge needle does not move as stated above, replace the gauge assembly and retest. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Remove the center console both track floor covers, and both door sill trims. 5. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 6. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 7. Measure voltage between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery voltage. - If the voltage is OK, go to step 8. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: a short in the YEL/BLK wire to ground. - an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK/WHT wire. - poor ground (G 551). 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 30 seconds, then reinstall it. How To Replace Connector Terminals Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How To Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. Page 3365 100. IAC Valve Page 3930 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 5610 Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Hub disassembly tool 07GAF-SD40100 ^ Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 ^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Support base 07965-SD90100 ^ Ball joint thread protector 07AAF-SDAA100 Knuckle and Hub Replacement 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper location. Page 1261 Page 4554 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 3. Remove the mounting bolts, harness clamp brackets (A), and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 4. Remove the ATF joint pipes (D), O-rings (E), and gasket (F). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and harness clamp brackets. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect them securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 6381 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Page 818 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 7202 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 3136 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 31 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 2668 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 6886 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 1725 Drive Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Drive Belt Auto-tensioner Replacement 1. Remove the drive belt. 2. Remove the power steering (P/S) pump without disconnecting the P/S hoses. 3. Remove the pulley bolt (A), and remove the tensioner pulley (B). 4. Remove the auto-tensioner. 5. Install the auto-tensioner in the reverse order of removal. Page 439 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 33. Brake Fluid Level Switch 33. Brake Fluid Level Switch Page 2877 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Page 6984 10. Remove the door panel (A) with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it. 1. Release the clips that hold the door panel with a commercially available trim pad remover (B). 2. Starting at the rear, pull the door panel upward, then release the lock knob (C). 3. Disconnect the power window switch connector (D), power mirror switch connector (on the driver's door) (E). 11. Install the panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly, and the rod is connected properly. - Push the clips portion into place securely. - Check the window and power door lock operations. Page 8510 Page 2886 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 330 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 6083 Heater Core: Service and Repair Heater Unit/Core Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 3. With air conditioning; disconnect the A/C lines from the evaporator core. 4. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). Turn the heater valve arm to the fully opened position as shown. 5. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator. 6. Slide the hose clamps (A) back, then disconnect the inlet heater hose (B) and the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater core. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately. 7. Remove the mounting bolt and the heater valve as shown. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines and the brake lines, etc. 8. Remove the dashboard. 9. Remove the ECM/PCM. Page 3333 8. Remove the locknut (A) and the fuel pump sending assembly. 9. Remove the fuel filter (B), the fuel gauge sending unit (C), the case (D), the wire harness (E), and the fuel pressure regulator (F). 10. When connecting the fuel pump assembly, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (H). 11. Check these items before installing the fuel tank unit. - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (I) are firmly locked into place. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. 12. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (J) and new O-rings (K). When installing the fuel tank unit, align the marks (L) on the unit (M) and the fuel tank (N). Page 4131 134. A/T Reverse Relay Front Suspension Service and Repair Overdrive Switch: Service and Repair O/D Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 6908 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 6880 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 7076 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 4828 4. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. 5. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks. 6. Install the pad retainers. 7. Apply Molykote M77 grease (P/N 08798-9010) to both sides of the pad shims (A), the back of the pads (B), and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake discs and pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads. 8. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the pads with the wear indicators (C) on the inside. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency. 9. Push in the piston (A) so that the caliper will fit over the pads. Check the brake fluid level. The brake fluid may overflow if the reservoir is too full. Make sure that the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when installing the caliper. 10. Apply Molykote M77 grease (P/N 08798-9010) to the piston edges (B) on their mating surfaces against the inner pad. 11. Install the brake caliper (C) and caliper bolts (D), and torque them to the specified torque while holding the pin (E). Be careful not to damage the pin boots. 12. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive. NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 13. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Disassembly and Reassembly Overhaul CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Page 266 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Interior - Front Seat Back Squeaking/Rubbing Noises Seat Back Frame: Customer Interest Interior - Front Seat Back Squeaking/Rubbing Noises 05-075 December 21, 2005 Applies To: 2003-05 Element - ALL Front Seat-Back Makes a Squeaking, Chafing, or Rubbing Noise SYMPTOM You hear a squeaking, chafing, or rubbing noise when you push on the middle of the seat-back or on the side bolsters. PROBABLE CAUSE There are three possible causes for the noise: ^ The seat-back foam rubs against the front edge of the side of the seat frame. ^ The two top seat cover springs rub against the seat frame. ^ On vehicles with side airbags, there may be interference between the zig-zag spring and an improperly routed side airbag cover mounting hook. CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply wool felt to the front edge of both sides of the seat frame and around both ends of the seat frame rod and, on models equipped with side airbags, reposition the side airbag cover mounting hook. REQUIRED MATERIALS Wool Felt: P/N 06993-SA5-000, H/C 2086676 (One roll will repair approximately eight vehicles.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Page 8401 89. Right Rear Door 90. Right Rear Door Page 1075 During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. Locations Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Locations 25. Transmission Housing 125. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 3517 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 3. Remove the mounting bolts, harness clamp brackets (A), and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 4. Remove the ATF joint pipes (D), O-rings (E), and gasket (F). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and harness clamp brackets. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect them securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information 00-088 July 14, 2010 Applies To: ALL Models Brake Disc Refinishing Guidelines (Supersedes 00-088, dated October 6, 2006, to revise the information marked with the black bars) *REVISION SUMMARY The requirement to refinish new brake discs was removed.* American Honda does not allow replacement of brake discs under warranty unless the brake disc is beyond its service limit for refinishing. If the brake disc is within its service limit, you must refinish it. Maximum refinishing limits may be found in the Conventional Brakes section of the appropriate service manual. *Refinish brake discs only when they are scored or out of specification for runout or parallelism. See the appropriate service manual for the specifications.* American Honda requires refinishing of the front brake discs with an on-car brake lathe that mounts to the steering knuckle. Use of an on-car, steering knuckle- mounted lathe is critical because it corrects runout of the hub and disc as an assembly. Experience has shown that very small amounts of runout, not felt as brake pulsation initially, will grow and become noticeable as the discs are subjected to heat and wear over time and mileage. Two on-car brake lathes are recommended. The Kwik-Lathe, model number KWY-108000501, is supported with automatic shipments of adapters for new models, when required. The Accu-turn On-car Brake Lathe, model ACCHONOCLPKG, is also recommended. A power driver is required for the 82000 and is highly recommended for all other models. The Kwik-Lathe power driver model number is KWY-108012005; the Accu-turn lathe includes a power driver. Here are some advantages of using power drivers: ^ The disc is rotated at the optimum speed for a smooth and consistent cut. ^ There is no need to climb in and out of the vehicle to start and stop the engine or to shift the transmission. ^ Securing the opposite wheel with a tie-down strap is not required. ^ There is no waiting for the engine to return to idle and no concern about engine speed changes that can adversely affect brake disc cut and finish. ^ The Traction Control System (TCS) is not involved. ^ Consistent cutting speed increases cutting tool life. ORDERING INFORMATION Order brake lathes and power drivers through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To place an order, call or use the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog. Phone lines are open Monday thru Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Central Time. You can also order online through the Interactive Network (iN). Click on Service, Tool and Equipment, and then Online Catalog. Click on Alignment, Wheel, and Brake Equipment, and then On-Car Brake Lathes. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None, this bulletin is for information only. FRONT BRAKE DISCS The following guidelines show the Kwik-Way lathe setup, the Accu-turn lathe setup is similar. Setting Up the Vehicle Put the transmission in Neutral. If you are not using the power drive system, start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature so the idle speed will stabilize to its lowest rpm. Page 3846 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3RD Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the connector from the 3rd clutch pressure switch (A). 2. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 3. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. Page 8608 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 6383 Page 3410 Throttle Cable/Linkage: Adjustments Throttle Cable Adjustment 1. Check cable free play at the throttle linkage. Cable free play (A) should be 10 - 12 mm (3/8 - 1/2 in.). 2. If the free play is not within spec (10 - 12 mm, 3/8 - 1/2 in.), loosen the locknut (B), turn the adjusting nut (C) until the deflection is as specified, then retighten the locknut. 3. With the cable properly adjusted, check the throttle valve to be sure it opens fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. Also check the throttle valve to be sure it returns to the idle position whenever you release the accelerator pedal. Page 1548 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Service and Repair Towing Information: Service and Repair Towing If the vehicle needs to be towed, call a professional towing service. Never tow the vehicle behind another vehicle with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous. Emergency Towing There are three popular methods of towing a vehicle. Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads the vehicle on the back of a truck. This is the only way to transport the vehicle. To accommodate flat-bed equipment, the vehicle is equipped with towing hooks (A) and tie down hooks (B). The towing hook can be used with a winch to pull the vehicle onto the truck, and the tie down hooks slots can be used to secure the vehicle to truck. Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lifts them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground. Never tow the vehicle with wheel lift equipment. Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the vehicle off the ground. The vehicle's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is attempted. This method of towing the ELEMENT is unacceptable. The only recommended way of towing the ELEMENT is on a flat-bed truck. Towing the 4WD ELEMENT with only two wheels on the ground will damage parts of the 4WD system. The 2WD ELEMENT may also be towed with the front wheels off the ground, or with all four wheels on the ground. If the 2WD ELEMENT cannot be transported by flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If due to damage, the vehicle must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, or if the vehicle is towed with all four wheels on the ground, do the following: Manual Transmission - Release the parking brake. Page 148 Diagram 115-1 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 1858 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 4086 16. Shift Control Solenoid Valve E (A/T) Page 5221 197. C106 (Junction Connector) Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing airbag system service. Observe the instructions described, or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. - Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. - Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. - Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks, or deformation. - Before removing any SRS parts (including disconnection of connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. - Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. - Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. - The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code and write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before disconnecting the battery cable. - Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the radio code, then enter the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock. Do the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure and the power window control unit resetting procedure. Page 5857 2. Release the parking brake lever. 3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and hang the caliper (C) to one side. To prevent damage to the caliper or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the undercarriage. 5. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screw (A), and screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the brake disc/drum (B) to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the brake disc/drum excessively. Remove the brake disc/drum. Page 6393 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 3821 Countershaft Sensor: Description and Operation Countershaft Speed Sensor This sensor detects countershaft speed. Page 678 Knock Sensor: Description and Operation Knock Sensor The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock. Page 5318 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Tubless Tire Repair Information 06-082 December 15, 2006 Applies To: ALL Tubeless Tire Repair Information This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda automobiles and light trucks. To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers. Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Refer to the tire manufacturer for warranty information. REQUIRED MATERIALS ^ 1/8 inch Patch-plug with lead wire ^ 1/4 inch Patch-plug with lead wire ^ 1/8 inch Plugs (stem)* ^ 1/4 inch Plugs (stem)* ^ 1/4 inch Patches* ^ 3/4 inch Patches* ^ Chemical cement ^ Liquid buffer ^ Rim-bead sealer ^ Inner liner sealer REQUIRED TOOLS ^ Tire stitcher, 1-1/2 inch wheel ^ Tire crayons ^ Tire test tank ^ Awl or probe ^ Flexible blade skiving knife ^ 1/8 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter ^ 1/4 inch Carbide tire tool with adapter ^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose ^ Carbide buffing wheel with adapter Page 7556 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Page 6373 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 6098 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air Heater Blows Cold Air; A/C Blows Warm Air NOTE: This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm. There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm. Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058), and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off. Page 544 9. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 10. Check that the needle of the fuel gauge indicates "F". - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F", replace the gauge. - If the pointer points to "F", the fuel gauge is OK; is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit: Go to step 12. NOTE: The needle of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is OFF, regardless of the fuel level. 11. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank. 12. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals of the fuel gauge sending unit with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the shown readings, replace the sending unit. NOTE: Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge to indicate the correct fuel level. Page 5825 2. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, and remove the nut (B). 3. Disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering arm on the damper using the special tools. 4. Remove the bolts, and remove the wheel sensor harness bracket (A) (with ABS) and brake hose bracket (B) from the damper. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector 5. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B). 6. Remove the flange nuts (A) from the top of the damper. Page 329 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 3250 Idle Speed: Specifications Engine idle Idle speed without load M/T in neutral ....................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 700 ± 50 rpm A/T in N or P position ................................................. ........................................................................................................................... 700 ± 50 rpm Idle speed with high electric load (A/C switch ON, temperature set to Max Cool, blower fan on High, rear window defogger ON, and headlights on high beam) M/T in neutral ....................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 720 ± 50 rpm A/T in N or P position ................................................. ........................................................................................................................... 720 ± 50 rpm Page 1423 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 3395 106. TP Sensor Page 2823 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 6173 11. Measure the voltage between the No. 7 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Repair open in the wire between the heater control panel and the A/C pressure switch. 12. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF. 13. Using the Backprobe Set, measure the voltage between the No. 9 terminal of under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (12P) and body ground with the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors connected. Is there 5 V or more? YES - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the A/C pressure switch. NO - Refer to the multiplex control system. NOTE: Check for multiplex codes in mode 1. Follow the troubleshooting for any codes found. If no codes are found, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit and a PCM one at a time. 14. Check for proper A/C system pressure. Is the pressure within specifications? YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch. NO - Repair the A/C pressure problem. Page 6263 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 2118 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Insulator Locations Page 7204 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 7837 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer Page 7761 Page 5229 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 819 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 2366 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 5462 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. Page 7801 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 1393 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Front Suspension Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ): Service and Repair Front Suspension Damper/Spring Replacement Special Tools Required Ball joint thread protector, 07AAF-SDAA100 Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 Removal 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the front wheels. Page 1915 Disclaimer Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Page 2786 46. Reinstall PGM-FI main relay 2 (A). 47. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No.5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Check the fuel pump, and replace it if necessary. Also replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. 48. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 49. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 50. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 51. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal E9 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 52. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse and the ECM/PCM (E9). Page 1233 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 5570 Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 6477 115. Behind Left Side Of Front Bumper 117. Behind Right Side Of Front Bumper Page 3041 126. Under Middle Of Vehicle Page 557 10. Parking Brake Switch Page 2704 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 2 Page 1400 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 5954 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 3052 56. PSP Switch Page 2475 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate B. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate B in the reverse order of removal. Diagram Information and Instructions Body Control Systems: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 8336 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5176 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle Idle Speed: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 5550 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 6601 Programming the Transmitter 1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat. 2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a square, yellow button; this is the programming button. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals. 5. Release the programming button. 6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the system exits the programming mode. 7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK" button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.) 8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 9. Test all the transmitters. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 5966 Blower Motor: Service and Repair Components Replacement Blower Unit Components Replacement Note these items when overhauling the blower unit: - The recirculation control motor (A), the power transistor (B), the blower motor (C), and the dust and pollen filters (with A/C)(D) can be replaced without removing the blower unit. - Before reassembly, make sure that the recirculation control linkage and doors move smoothly. - After reassembly, make sure the recirculation control motor runs smoothly. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle Idle Speed: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 2639 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 7848 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 8003 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2198 Water Pump: Service and Repair Water Passage Replacement Installation 1. Clean and dry the water passage mating surfaces. 2. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, evenly to the cylinder block mating surface of the water passage and to the inner threads of the bolt holes. NOTE: Do not install the parts if 4 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing old residue. 3. Install the water passage (A) with a new O-ring (B). 4. After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with coolant or oil. Page 7526 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Page 8610 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Testing and Inspection Voltage Signal: Testing and Inspection Alternator FR Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Monitor the ALTERNATOR in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 3. Check if the indicated percentage varies when the lighting switch is ON. Does the percentage vary? YES - The alternator signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Turn the lighting switch and ignition switch OFF. 5. Disconnect the alternator 4P connector. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 7. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A9 and 813. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Go to step 13. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P). 11. Connect alternator 4P connector terminal No.4 to body ground with a jumper wire. Page 8609 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 4647 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 5203 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1319 Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak. NOTE: Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to inspect for leaks. (c) Inspect the entire system. Be sure to check these locations: ^ damaged and corroded areas ^ fittings ^ hose-to-line couplings ^ refrigerant controls ^ service ports ^ brazed or welded areas ^ areas near attachment points (d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and glasses. (e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle). Disclaimer Page 3129 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 1618 Page 4444 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Page 5813 1. Install all the parts except the damper mounting washer and self-locking nut onto the damper unit by referring to the Exploded View. Align the bottom of the spring (A) and the stepped part of the lower spring seat (B), and align the damper mounting base as shown. 2. Install the damper assembly on a commercially available strut spring compressor (c). 3. Compress the damper spring with the strut spring compressor. 4. Install the washer (A) and a new self-locking nut (B) on the damper shaft. 5. Hold the damper shaft with a hex wrench (c), and tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque. Installation 1. Position the damper (A) assembly in the body. Note the direction of the damper mounting base so the indent mark on it is toward the inside of the vehicle. Page 1130 Air Filter Element: Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 3513 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid B and C in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B, C and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance between the solenoid valve B terminals No. 1 and No. 2, and measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance between the solenoid valve C terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance of either of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. Page 6029 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 512 11. Measure the voltage between the No. 7 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Repair open in the wire between the heater control panel and the A/C pressure switch. 12. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF. 13. Using the Backprobe Set, measure the voltage between the No. 9 terminal of under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (12P) and body ground with the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors connected. Is there 5 V or more? YES - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the A/C pressure switch. NO - Refer to the multiplex control system. NOTE: Check for multiplex codes in mode 1. Follow the troubleshooting for any codes found. If no codes are found, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit and a PCM one at a time. 14. Check for proper A/C system pressure. Is the pressure within specifications? YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch. NO - Repair the A/C pressure problem. Page 4992 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 278 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index ECM/PCM Terminal Values Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection ECM/PCM Terminal Values ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 1 Page 8483 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6300 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 2238 Engine Control Module: Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 5621 Power Steering Fluid: Fluid Type Specifications POWER STEERING SYSTEM FLUID TYPE Honda Power Steering Fluid. Always use Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather. Page 684 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the ECM/PCM. Page 3057 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Service and Repair Power Steering Hoses, Lines, and Pressure Switch Replacement Note these items during installation: ^ Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from the hose end as shown. ^ Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new ones if necessary. ^ Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the reservoir and check for leaks. Page 6039 Control Assembly: Description and Operation Max Cool Position Function When the mode control dial is in the MAX A/C position, the heater control panel will automatically select the Recirculation mode and turn the A/C on. The recirculation switch and A/C switch are disabled and cannot be turned off in this mode. If the control panel fails to function as described, replace it. Page 5432 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Service and Repair Oil Filter: Service and Repair Engine Oil Filter Replacement Special Tools Required Oil filter wrench 07HM-PJ70100 1. Remove the oil filter with the special oil filter wrench. 2. Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal (B) on the new filter's. Clean the seat on the engine block, then apply a light coat of oil to the filter's rubber seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system. 3. Install the oil filter by hand. 4. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the special tool. Tighten: 3/4 turn clockwise. Tightening torque: 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft. lbs.) Page 338 Page 3166 109. VSS (M/T) Page 2814 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Page 7013 5. Apply multipurpose grease to all the sliding surfaces of the regulator (A) where shown. 6. Install the glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding. - Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and glass run channel when the glass is closed. - Adjust the position of the glass as necessary. - Check for water leaks. - Test-drive and check for wind noise and rattles. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 837 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Locations 131. Transmission Housing (M/T) Page 297 207. SRS Unit Page 3778 Shift Solenoid: Diagrams 13. Shift Control Solenoid Valve A (A/T) 14. Shift Control Solenoid Valve B (A/T) 15. Shift Control Solenoid Valve C (A/T) Page 7442 This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit. 1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one. 2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip. 3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to lock the chip in place. 4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter. 5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters. 6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat. 7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure as in steps 2 and 3.) 8. Press the reset button next to the ROM chip. 9. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit. If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is 5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from American Honda. If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at (800) 421-2284, extension 8885. Batteries for the Transmitter Page 2892 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 8465 Page 1639 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 264 142. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 & 2 Page 1512 8. Install the brake hose mounting bracket (A). Page 482 136. Under Left Side Of Dash (M/T) Page 4825 13. Hold the pads on both sides firmly with your fingers, and install the new pad springs (A) on the pads. Holding the pads, set the caliper over the pads by pivoting it down slowly. NOTE: Insert the pad spring ends into the pad installation holes securely. 14. Pivot the caliper (A) down into position. Be careful not to damage the pin boots. 15. Install the flange bolt (B), and tighten it to the specified torque. 16. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive. NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 17. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Disassembly and Reassembly Overhaul CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Page 5233 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 6683 ^ Select About. - What iTunes version are you using? - What TTS software version is installed? ^ Make sure you have the customer's iPod for troubleshooting. ^ Turn on the iPod, and verify its battery is fully charged before testing. If the battery is low, the iPod will not "make up" when connected. ^ Some iPod protective cases cause the Music Link iPod connector to be installed crookedly or not fully engaged. Be sure to remove the protective case before troubleshooting. ^ Go to http//musiclink.honda.com/Tech Faq.html to view technical FAQs and troubleshooting. TROUBLESHOOTING Check mark is not shown on the iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode. NOTE: Remove the iPod protective case, if installed. 1. At the Music Link interface unit, make sure both connectors are fully engaged, and the cables do not have any broken or bent pins. NOTE: To release the Music Link interface unit connectors, you must pull back on the lock sleeves. Does either cable have the connector partially disengaged, or are any pins broken or bent? Yes - Reconnect or replace the loose or damaged cable. No - Go to step 2. 2. At the audio unit, make sure the cable connectors and the connector pin fits are tight. Also check that the optional Y-bus harness (if installed) connector and connector pin fits are tight. Do the cable connections and pins fit properly? Yes - Replace the Music Link interface unit and the cable. No - Repair the faulty connection at the audio unit. Static, or weak or no volume over speakers only in Music Link mode. NOTE: Remove iPod protective case, if installed. Page 2536 ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 1424 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 223 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 3946 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 2680 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 6878 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4329 Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications M/T Fluid Type ........................................................................................................................................ Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF): P/N 08798-9016 If Honda MTF is not available, use an SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 motor oil with an API Certification Seal that says "FOR GASOLINE ENGINES" as a temporary replacement. However, motor oil does not contain the proper additives, and continued use can cause stiffer shifting. Page 7961 33. Left Side Of Dash 34. Inside Steering Wheel Page 5901 Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement 1. Remove the brake hose mounting bracket (A). 2. Separate the bearing unit (A) from the knuckle (B). 3. Separate the hub (A) and backing plate (B) from bearing unit (C) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the bearing unit with a press attachment (D) or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 8385 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 533 89. Right Rear Door 90. Right Rear Door Locations Body Control Systems: Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index Page 8573 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 7336 3. Remove the three upper clips and install three new clips. 4. Reinstall all removed parts. Disclaimer Page 1651 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Testing and Inspection VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is stuck or clogged, replace it, then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1 Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.) If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step?. Page 6019 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 1475 63. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 64. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 1. 64. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 65. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.1 and ECM/PCM connector terminals A2 and A3 individually. Is there continuity? YES - Replace PGM-FI main relay 1. NO - Repair open in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and the ECM/PCM (A2, A3). 66. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminals A4, A5, A8, and A9 individually. Is there more than 0.2 V? YES - Repair open in the wire(s) that had more than 0.2 V between G101 and the ECM/PCM (A4, A5, A8, A9). NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good, ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Page 205 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Adjustments Rear Door Striker: Adjustments Rear Door Striker Adjustment Make sure the door latches securely without slamming it. If necessary, adjust the upper and lower strikers at the same time. 1. Remove these items: - Upper striker cover - Door sill trim 2. Adjust the upper striker (A) and lower striker (B): - Loosen the upper striker mounting bolts (C) slightly, and move the striker in or out until the upper edge of the door is flush with the body. Install and/or remove shims (D) until the striker is centered in the upper latch. - Loosen the lower striker mounting screws (E) slightly, and move the striker in or out until the bottom edge of the door is flush with the body. Move the striker forward or rearward until the striker is centered in the lower latch. 3. Lightly tighten the bolts and screws. 4. Hold the door handle (F) out, and push the door against the body to be sure the strikers allow a flush fit. If the door latches properly, tighten the bolts and screws and recheck. 5. Check the door unlock synchronization. If necessary, adjust the upper and lower latch cables. Page 335 Page 3435 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor A Replacement CMP Sensor A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor A connector (A). 3. Remove the bolt (B). 4. Remove CMP sensor A (C). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 2659 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Locations Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5650 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Testing and Inspection PSP Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP SWITCH the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it indicate OFF? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 12. 4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - The PSP switch signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 7. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 11. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM (E16) and the PSP switch. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the PSP switch 2Pconnector. Page 1389 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 2700 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 5231 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4824 6. Remove the pad retainers (A). 7. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. 8. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks. 9. Install the pad retainers. 10. Apply Molykote M77 grease (P/N 08798-9010) to both sides of the pad shim (A), the back of the pads (B), and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake discs and pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads. 11. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the pads with the wear indicators (C) on the inside. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency. 12. Push in the piston (A) so the caliper will fit over the pads. Check the brake fluid level. The brake fluid may overflow if the reservoir is too full. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down. Page 2317 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 123 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Locations Parking Brake Warning Switch: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 6264 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Locations Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 4099 16. Wind the O/D switch harness (A) one turn around the clamp (B) on the bottom of the shift lever. 17. Install the harness clamp (C) at the reference tape (D) on the harness, then install the clamp in the hole (E) of the shift lever bracket (F). 18. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 19. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. 20. Install the park pin switch (A). Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 21. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (B), and install the connector (C). Specifications Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve clearance (cold) Intake ................................................................................................................................................... ...................... 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Exhaust ............................................................... ....................................................................................................... 0.28 - 0.32 mm (0.011 - 0.013 inch) Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 7195 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Testing and Inspection VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is sticking or is clogged replaced it; then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. Page 3118 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 1538 Page 5965 6. Fold the floor covering and pad back toward you. Remove the mounting bolts, the mounting nut, and the blower unit. 7. Install the unit in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leakage. Page 5727 NOTE: Do not use pneumatic or electric tools on the pressure bolt. 6. Remove the tools, and pull the ball joint out: of the steering arm or knuckle. Inspect the ball joint at boot, and replace it if damaged. Page 4861 4. Back off the adjusting nut (A) in the equalizer. 5. Remove the rear wheels. 6. Remove the access plug (A). 7. Turn the ratchet teeth (B) on the adjuster assembly (C) with a flat-tip screwdriver (D) until the shoes lock against the drum. Then back off the adjuster eight clicks, and install the access plug. 8. Do the minor adjustment procedure. 9. Install the rear wheels. 10. Install the center console. Page 8012 Page 1848 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 6515 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2106 Page 632 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire. Page 7386 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Page 6999 5. Push down and hold the power window switch. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 7. Release the powerwindow switch. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps. 8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep holding the switch for 1 second. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2. SYMPTOM 2 The windows are slow to open. PROBABLE CAUSE The run channel is damaged or dirty. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting. 1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle: ^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required. ^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window regulator speed. ^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator. ^ If the speed is faster without the glass, go to step 2. NOTE: When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the full up position because damage can occur to the regulator. 2. Inspect the visible portion of the run channel for damage. Page 5508 Relay Box: Service and Repair Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash fuse/relay box (A). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal, and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presents. 7. Confirm that all systems work properly. Page 3132 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1869 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Service and Repair VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is stuck or clogged, replace it, then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1 Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.) If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step?. Page 6108 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 4426 Page 6040 Control Assembly: Testing and Inspection Heater Control Power and Ground Circuits Troubleshooting 1. Check the No.14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck. 2. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 14 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the heater control panel. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Check for continuity between the No. 4 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the heater control panel and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G501. Service and Repair Trailing Arm: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the rear wheels. 2. Remove the knuckle. 3. Place the floor jack under the trailing arm (A) to support it. 4. Remove the flange nut (B), and disconnect the stabilizer link (C) from the trailing arm. 5. Remove the flange bolt (D), and disconnect the damper (E) from the trailing arm. 6. Remove the trailing arm front mounting bolts (A). 7. Remove the trailing arm rear mounting bolt (A). NOTICE: Do not loosen the special bolts (B) on the trailing arm. Page 5581 During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. Page 5602 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Testing and Inspection PSP Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP SWITCH the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it indicate OFF? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 12. 4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - The PSP switch signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 7. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 11. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM (E16) and the PSP switch. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the PSP switch 2Pconnector. Page 5371 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 6250 66. Side Impact Sensor, Front Passenger's (EX: Side Airbag) Page 4628 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 2896 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 5496 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2738 Information Bus: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 2911 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (Part 1) Page 3048 Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair Secondary HO2S Replacement Secondary HO2S Replacement Special Tools Required O2 sensor wrench. Snap-on YA8875, SP Tools 93750, or equivalent, commercially available 1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B). 2. Install the secondary HO2S in the reverse order of removal. Compressor Clutch Check Compressor Clutch: Testing and Inspection Compressor Clutch Check Compressor Clutch Check 1. Check the armature plate for discoloration, peeling, or other damage. If there is damage, replace the clutch set. 2. Check the rotor pulley bearing play and drag by rotating the rotor pulley by hand. Replace the clutch set with a new one if it is noisy or has excessive play/drag. 3. Measure the clearance between the pulley (A) and the pressure plate (B) with a dial indicator. Zero out the indicator, then apply battery voltage to the compressor clutch. Measure the movement of the pressure plate when the voltage is applied. If the clearance is not within the specified limits, the pressure plate must be reshimmed. Clearance: 0.35 - 0.6 mm (0.014 - 0.024 in.) NOTE: The shims are available in three thicknesses: 0.1 mm, 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm. 4. Check resistance of the field coil. If resistance is not within specifications, replace the field coil. Page 8552 Page 5209 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Description and Operation Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor The BARO sensor is inside the ECM/PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge. Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 3096 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 7710 8. Pull out the headrest guides (A) while pinching the end of the guides, and remove them. 9. Pull back the seat-back cover all the way around, then remove it. 10. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and inside springs. - Make sure the side airbag harness and seat subharness (passenger's seat) are routed properly. - For some models: reinitialize the OPDS control unit. Seat Cushion Cover 1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove these items from the front seat. - Recline cover, driver's seat, passenger's seat. - Center cover, driver's seat, passenger's seat. 3. With side airbag: From under the seat cushion, detach the side airbag connector clip, and from under the passenger's seat, disconnect the OPDS harness connector, and detach the clips. Release the hook springs from the seat cushion frame spring, then pull the cover back, and remove the harness bands. 4. Release the hooks (A). Page 3105 Page 782 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Testing and Inspection Power Door Lock Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test NOTE: Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system . 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors J, M, P, Q, X and Y. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 779 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 2552 8. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). 11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing Control Module: Service and Repair PCM Updating and Substitution For Testing PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the PCM only if the PCM does not have the latest software loaded. Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the PCM can be damaged. Page 5928 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Recirculation Control Motor Test Recirculation Control Motor Test 1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the recirculation control motor. NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the recirculation control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully. 2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the recirculation control motor, and ground the No. 5 and No. 7 terminals; the recirculation control motor should run smoothly. To avoid damaging the recirculation control motor, do not reverse power and ground. Disconnect the No. 5 or No. 7 terminals from ground; the recirculation control motor should stop at Fresh or Recirculate. Don't cycle the recirculation control motor for a long time. 3. If the recirculation control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the recirculation control linkage and doors for smooth movement. - If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor. - If the linkage or doors stick or bind, repair them as needed. Page 8472 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 1635 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 8227 Page 1811 Timing Chain: Service and Repair Cam Chain Installation Installation NOTE: Keep the cam chain away from magnetic fields. 1. Set the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer (B) on the cylinder block. 2. Set the camshafts to TDC. The punch mark (A) on the variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust camshaft sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket. 3. Install the cam chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored piece (A) aligned with the mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket. Page 154 Low Beam Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Five-terminal type: Low Beam Cut Relay (Canada) Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Specifications Wheel Fastener: Specifications Wheel Lug Torque ............................................................................................................................... ................................................... 108 Nm (79.6 ft lb) Page 4112 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. 9. Remove the heat shield under the body, and remove the shift cable bracket. 10. Remove the grommet, and pull out the shift cable. 11. 4WD model: Replace the shift cable. ^ 1 Remove the bolts (A) securing the shift cable bracket (B), then remove the shift cable cover (C). ^ 2 Remove the spring clip (D) and control pin (E), then separate the shift cable (F) from the selector control lever (G). ^ 3 Remove the bolts (H) securing the shift cable bracket (I), then remove the shift cable bracket (I) from the shift cable. ^ 4 Replace the shift cable, and insert it through the grommet hole. Do not bend the shift cable excessively. Face the dot (J) on the shift cable (F) down, then install the shift cable bracket (I) on the shift cable. ^ 5 Attach the shift cable end (K) to the selector control lever (G), then insert the control pin (E) into the selector control lever hole through the Page 3303 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 2751 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 5253 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 3113 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0606 Set PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0606 Set 04-048 September 3, 2004 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL MIL Comes On With DTC P0606 SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P0606 (ECM/PCM processor malfunction) is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The ECM/PCM may incorrectly interpret a low battery voltage condition as a processor malfunction, setting DTC P0606. CORRECTIVE ACTION Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM). REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ^ Interactive Network (iN) CD (September '04 or later) ^ iN Workstation ^ Honda Interface Module (HIM): T/N EQS05A35570 ^ PC Interface Cable (RS232): T/N VET-02002832 ^ AC Adapter (110 VAG/12 VDC Power Supply): T/N VET-02002426 These tools are already at your dealership. To order additional HIMs, interface cables, or AC adapters, call the Honda Tool and Equipment Program at 1-888-424-6857. Phone lines are open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. CT. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-A83 H/C 7611288 Defect Code: 07201 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. Page 1638 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 3686 details, refer to the MVCI User Guide on ISIS. The Database Update version appears when you select Reprogramming, then press ENTER. 1. Connect the DLC cable to the MVCI and to the vehicle's DLC. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). The MVCI automatically boots up. 3. Press the ENTER button on the MVCI to see the User Config menu. Select CM Update Mode. 4. Select Reprogramming, then press ENTER. NOTE: Use these MVCI default settings: Setting 1Destination: USA Language: American English Setting 2 - Auto Detect: Yes Continuous Mode: No For more information on these settings, refer to the MVCI User Guide. 5. The CM Update software information appears. Press ENTER to continue. Page 8309 Locations Description and Operation Ignition Timing: Description and Operation Ignition Timing Control The ECM/PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature. Page 1199 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 4942 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 4646 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 5053 18. Rotate the overrunning clutch (A) both ways. Does it lock in one direction and rotate smoothly in reverse? If it does not lock in either direction or it locks in both directions, replace it. 19. If the starter drive gear (B) is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the flywheel ring gear to see if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged. Starter Reassembly 20. Install the armature into the housing. 21. Place the brush holder assembly on the armature, then move the brush holder (A) down to the armature. 22. Install the end cover to retain the brush holder. A/T Starter Overhaul A/T Engine Controls - DTC P0171 Set Absolute Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P0171 Set SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Got a DTC P0171? Check the Short-Term Fuel Trim APPLIES TO: 03-04 Accord 01-04 Civic 02-04 CR-V 03-04 Element 02-04 Odyssey 03-04 Pilot SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that purrs like a kitten but it sets a DTC P0171 (fuel system too lean)? Check the short-term fuel trim (ST FUEL TRIM B1). If the value reads higher than 1.05, then check the MAP SENSOR value with the engine turned off and the ignition switch turned to ON (II). - If the MAP SENSOR and BARO SENSOR values match, the MAP sensor is working OK. Do the normal troubleshooting for DTC P0171. - If the MAP SENSOR and BARO SENSOR values don't match, install a known-good MAP sensor, and retest. If the sensor values now match, clear the DTC, and make sure the ST FUEL TRIM B1 value is normal (it reads about 1.0). Page 5027 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 4287 Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Door Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Page 8084 7. Reinstall the dashboard middle panel. 8. Reinstall the dashboard side lid. 9. If required by the Department of Motor Vehicles, fill out an odometer mileage disclosure sticker, and apply it to the driver's doorjamb. Disclaimer Page 3829 Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) ........................................................................................................................................................... Honda ATF-Z1 Page 7343 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Apply liquid thread lock to the upper anchor bolt before installation. - Push the clips into place securely. - When installing the rear side trim panel, make sure the seat belt is not pinched. - Before installing the upper anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt. Trim Removal/Installation - Hatch Area Trim Removal/Installation - Hatch Area Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program; NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. 1. Remove the trim as shown. Page 5693 11. Remove the valve body unit (A) from the steering gearbox. Remove the O-ring (B) and discard it. 12. Remove the two boot bands (B) from boot A. Compress boot A by hand, and apply vinyl tape (C) so the boots stay collapsed and pulled back. 13. Hold the gearbox housing using a C-clamp (commercially available) (A) and the wooden blocks (B) as shown. Do not clamp the cylinder housing or gearbox housing in the vise. Page 1849 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4959 Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7538 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 6084 10. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the dashboard wire harness, the air mix control motor, the evaporator temperature sensor, the power transistor, the mode control motor, the blower motor, and the recirculation control motor, then remove the wire harness clips (B), the connector clips (C), the wire harness (D) the heater duct (E) and the clip (F). Disconnect the drain hose (G),then remove the mounting nuts and the blower-heater unit (H). 11. Remove the self-tapping screws and the expansion valve cover (A). With air conditioning; carefully pull out the evaporator core (B) so you don't bend the inlet and outlet pipes. Remove the self-tapping screws and the flange cover (C), then remove the grommet (D), and carefully pull out the heater core (E) so you don't bend the inlet and outlet pipes. 12. Install the heater core and the evaporator core (with A/C) in the reverse order of removal. 13. Install the heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose clamps securely. - Refill the cooling system with engine coolant. - Be sure to connect the drain hose securely. - Adjust the heater valve cable. - Make sure that there is no coolant leakage. - Make sure that there is no air leakage. - With air conditioning, refer to evaporator core replacement. Page 7625 9. Install the frame and drain tube in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Before installing the frame, clear the drain tubes and drain valves using compressed air. - Check the frame seal. - Clean the surface of the frame. - When connecting the drain tube, slide it over the frame nozzle at least 10 mm (0.39 in). - Install the tube clip (A) on the drain tube (B) as shown. 10. Check for water leaks. Let the water run freely from a hose without a nozzle. Do not use a high-pressure spray. Page 2734 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 8274 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4404 3. Inspect the mounting flange for any high spots, especially at the base of the A-pillar where the dashboard attaches. NOTE: You may need to remove some of the adhesive to inspect the area. ^ If you find any high spots, go to step 4. ^ If you don't find any high spots, go to step 5. 4. Using a hammer, carefully flatten the high spots so they are even with the rest of the area. If needed, apply touch-up paint to the flattened areas. NOTICE To prevent damage to the A-pillar and the surrounding area, do not use too much force with the hammer. 5. Install the new windshield: ^ Refer to pages 20-38 thru 20-42 of the service manual, steps 10 thru 25, or ^ Online, enter keyword WINDSHIELD, select Windshield Replacement from the list, and do steps 10 thru 25. Disclaimer Page 2301 144. Rear Accessory Power Socket And A/F Sensor Relays Page 4315 Flywheel: Specifications Torque & Sequence Flywheel Torque the flywheel mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps. Flex Plate Install the drive plate and washer on the engine crankshaft, and tighten the eight bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or more steps. Page 821 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 317 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 1110 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 425 Page 7309 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 80 Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Daytime Running Lights Control Unit Input Test - Canada 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the daytime running lights control unit(B). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 196 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 5876 ^ Reversible drill motor (800 RPM MAX) ^ Tire spreader ^ Inspection lamp * For repairable injuries that exceed 25 degrees TIRE REPAIR GUIDELINES Never repair tires worn below 2/32 inch of tread. Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection. Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm). Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury. NOTE: If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as recommended by the RMA. MICHELIN PAX SYSTEM SUPPORT RING INSPECTION PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated, dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION, select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list. Disclaimer Page 4568 Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Solenoid Valve Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve connectors. 7. Remove the bolts, and hold the shift solenoid valve body, then remove them. Do not hold the connector to remove. Page 124 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 8228 ERROR: undefined OFFENDING COMMAND: ‘~ STACK: Page 2181 58. Radiator Fan Switch Page 1700 5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct. 6. Tighten the locknut, and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. 7. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 8. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 9. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 10. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder. 11. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 12. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No.2 cylinder. 13. Install the cylinder head cover. VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Service and Repair VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is sticking or is clogged replaced it; then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. Page 3123 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 8256 Wire Color Codes Page 2865 DTC P0A94 thru P0157 Page 3295 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Page 4317 Flywheel: Service and Repair Flywheel Replacement 1. Install the special tool. 2. Remove the flywheel mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove the flywheel. 3. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft, and install the mounting bolts finger-tight. 4. Install the special tool, then torque the flywheel mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps. Page 1958 Valve Clearance: Adjustments Adjustment NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C). 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC). The punch mark (A) on the variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust camshaft sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket. 3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check. Intake: 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Exhaust: 0.28 - 0.32 mm (0.011 - 0.013 inch) Adjusting screw locations 4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem, and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) Oxygen Sensor: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) 03-027 May 6, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Accord L4 2-door- From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A020275 2003 Accord L4 4-door- From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A071758 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C073601 2003 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1...3L006131 2003 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...3L000001 thru 5J6YH2...3L014546 MIL Comes On With DTC P2A00 (P2900) SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P2A00 (P2900)* [Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range Performance Problem]. * If you use the PGM Tester to retrieve codes, you may see DTC P2900; it's the same as DTC P2A00. PROBABLE CAUSE The air fuel ratio sensor is faulty. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for DTC P2A00 (P2900). If P2A00 (P2900) is present, replace the air fuel ratio sensor, and clear the DTC. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 36531-RAA-A01 H/C 7136187 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C99 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. PARTS INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or the PGM Tester to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector), and check for DTCs. Page 2526 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 8613 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5895 3. Remove the snap ring (A) and the splash guard (B) from the knuckle (C). 4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (c), a steel plate (D), the special tool, and a press. NOTE: (with ABS): Install the wheel bearing with the magnetic encoder (E) (brown color) toward the inside of the knuckle. - Remove any oil, grease, dust metal debris, or other foreign material from the encoder surface. - Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. - Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing. Page 956 Page 7926 Cruise Control Servo: Testing and Inspection Cruise Control Actuator Input Test 1. Disconnect the 12P connector from the actuator. 2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 3. Part 1 Page 8089 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 1081 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 1704 9. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 10. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 11. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Without the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Remove the glove box, then remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. NOTE: If any DTCs are stored, clear and ignore them. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel fill cap, and relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. 7. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Page 7438 Page 54 Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 2129 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 2364 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 1271 Page 6358 207. SRS Unit Page 3927 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 7572 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 1093 Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury: - Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area. - Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area. - Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away. - Wear eye protection. - Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F). - Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components. - Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required. - Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel. - Do not replace fuel pipe with fuel hose. - Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses. - After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks. Page 8097 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 2986 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 5357 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 4072 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 1275 Coolant: Testing and Inspection Check 1. Look at the coolant level in the reserve tank. Make sure it is between the MAX mark (A) and MIN mark (B). 2. If the coolant level in the reserve tank is at or below the MIN mark, add coolant to bring it up to the MAX mark, and inspect the cooling system for leaks. Page 863 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 8027 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3243 Disclaimer Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Page 5414 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 7836 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. Page 1841 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 1789 6. Oil Pressure Switch Page 63 Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7745 Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams 95. Door Lock Knob Switch, Driver's 138. Door Lock Switch, Driver's Page 3622 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A). 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the park pin switch with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No.2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 12. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 2318 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 214 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 6099 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 1412 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 7088 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Page 8568 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Locations Hazard Warning Flasher: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 7144 Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim Panel: Service and Repair Hatch Upper Molding Replacement Hatch Upper Molding Replacement 1. Using a clip remover, detach the clips, and pull the hatch upper molding (A) away to release the double-sided adhesive tape (B). 2. Scrape off the remaining double-sided adhesive tape from the hatch, then clean the hatch surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. 3. Peel off the adhesive backing from the double-sided adhesive tape. 4. Hold the molding up, and align the clip holes in the molding with the mounting holes in the hatch, then install the molding. 5. Install the clips, and push on the adhesive tape portion of the molding securely. Page 8572 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4391 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 1448 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8402 Door Switch: Diagrams 4. Door Switch, Driver's 5. Door Switch, Front Passenger's 38. Door Lower Switch, Left Rear Page 2355 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 1082 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Page 3115 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 1756 Oil Pressure Sender: Testing and Inspection Oil Pressure Switch Test 1. Remove the YEL/RED wire (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B). 2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running. 3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil lever If the engine oil level is OK, check the engine oil pressure. If the oil pressure is OK, replace the oil pressure switch. Page 6927 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4848 Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Description and Operation ABS Modulator The ABS modulator consists of inlet solenoid valves, outlet solenoid valves, reservoir, pump, and the pump motor. The modulator reduces the caliper fluid pressure directly. It is a circulating-type modulator because the brake fluid circulates through the caliper, reservoir, and the master cylinder. The hydraulic control has three modes: normal braking, pressure retaining, and pressure reducing. The hydraulic circuit is an independent four channel type, one channel for each wheel. Normal braking mode .............................................................................................................................................................. .............. Inlet valve open, outlet valve closed ..................................................................................................................................................... Master cylinder fluid is pumped out to the caliper. Pressure retaining mode .............................................................................................................................................................. ............ Inlet valve closed, outlet valve closed ....................................................................................................................................... Caliper fluid is retained by the inlet valve and outlet valve. Pressure reducing mode .............................................................................................................................................................. .............. Inlet valve closed, outlet valve open ....................................................................................................................................... Caliper fluid flows through the outlet valve to the reservoir. ........................................................................................................................................... When in pressure reducing mode, the pump motor is ON. ..................................................................... The reservoir fluid is pumped out by the pump, through the damping chamber, to the master cylinder. ............................................................................................................................................. When stopping ABS operation, the pump motor is OFF. Page 805 Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Side Impact Sensor Side Impact Sensor Replacement NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure in the Body section before doing repairs or service. Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the seat assembly. 4. Remove the door sill trim. 5. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor. 6. Remove the Torx bolt (A) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the side impact sensor (B). Installation 1. Install the new side impact sensor with the Torx bolt (A), then connect the floor wire harness 2P connector (B) to the side impact sensor. 2. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 3. After installing the side impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. 4. Install all removed parts. Page 5424 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 8382 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 6907 Page 313 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 1912 Idle Speed: By Symptom Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Page 2096 Page 5503 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 1567 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2267 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (Part 2) Diagram Information and Instructions Marker Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1894 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required - Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A - Fuel pressure gauge set 07ZAJ-S5A0100 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 330 - 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 55 psi). - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then recheck the fuel pressure. Page 5327 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 2439 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM/PCM. The TP sensor is not available separately from the throttle body. Page 783 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Locations Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index 29. Rear Of Engine Compartment Page 5429 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 2990 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 1467 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 15. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P) and the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. 16. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E29 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E29) and the DLC. NO - Go to step 17. 17. Disconnect the gauge assembly connector B(16P). 18. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E31 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E31) and the gauge assembly. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 19. Try to start the engine. Does the engine start? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Go to step 26. 20. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 2264 Engine Control Module: Connector Views 204. ECM/PCM Page 5454 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 2696 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (Part 2) Page 2820 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 8370 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 3696 5. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HDS tablet. 6. In the HDS Tablet Programming screen, click on the check mark after programming is completed. 7. In the Updating Honda Control Modules screen, click on the check mark. NOTE: To avoid permanent control module damage, do not turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) during the update. 8. When updating is complete, follow the screen prompts to turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and then to ON (II). To update another system, return to the Updating Honda Control Modules screen by clicking on the exit button on the right side of the screen. UPDATING WITH THE HIM Page 1115 Disclaimer Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Page 2834 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Description and Operation Ignition Timing: Description and Operation Ignition Timing Control The ECM/PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature. Page 6654 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 6809 Diagram 118-1 Page 6306 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Page 592 220. Fog Light Switch (Honda Accessory) Page 8004 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Locations Oxygen Sensor Relay: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 5925 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Mode Control Motor Test Mode Control Motor Test 1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the mode control motor. NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the mode control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully. 2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the mode control motor, and ground the No. 2 terminal; the mode control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Vent. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the mode control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Defrost. When the mode control motor stops running, disconnect battery power immediately. 3. If the mode control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the mode control linkage and doors for smooth movement. - If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the mode control motor. - If the linkage or doors stick or bind, repair them as needed. - If the mode control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4. 4. Use a digital multimeter with an output of 1 mA or less at the 20 kOhm range. With the mode control motor running as in step 2, check for continuity between the No. 3, 4, 5, 6 terminals and the No. 7 terminal individually. There should be continuity for a moment at each terminal as the motor moves past the switch's terminal. 5. If there is no continuity for a moment at each terminal, replace the mode control motor. Page 8060 82. Left Rear Door (Right Similar) Page 7191 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 656 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 843 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 5375 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 2871 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 4373 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). Page 3330 Fuel Gauge Sender: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. 1. Check the No.10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Do the gauge drive circuit check. - If the fuel gauge needle moves from the minimum to maximum position and then returns to the minimum position, the gauge is OK. Go to step 3. - If the fuel gauge needle does not move as stated above, replace the gauge assembly and retest. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Remove the center console both track floor covers, and both door sill trims. 5. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 6. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 7. Measure voltage between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery voltage. - If the voltage is OK, go to step 8. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: a short in the YEL/BLK wire to ground. - an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK/WHT wire. - poor ground (G 551). 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 30 seconds, then reinstall it. Page 136 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 6286 Page 6805 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 1374 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Replacement Starter Motor: Service and Repair Replacement Starter Replacement 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the customer's radio station presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable. 3. Remove the intake manifold. M/T A/T 4. Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the B terminal, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (B) from the S terminal. 5. Remove the harness clamp (C). 6. Remove the harness holder (D). 7. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter. 8. Install the starter in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. 9. Install the intake manifold. 10. Connect the battery positive cable and negative cable to the battery. 11. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly. 12. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. 13. Set the clock. 14. Perform the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) idle learn procedure, and power window control unit reset procedure. Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel Pressure ............................................................................................................................................... 330 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 - 55 psi) Page 6930 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 809 Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Diagrams 104. Seat Belt Switch, Driver's 105. Seat Belt Switch, Front Passenger's Page 6507 Page 1178 Cabin Air Filter: Service and Repair Dust and Pollen Filter Replacement With Air Conditioning The dust and pollen filters should be replaced every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 2 years whichever comes first. Replace the filters more often if the air flow is less than usual, or if the vehicle is driven in areas that have high concentrations of soot from industry or diesel powered vehicles. 1. Open the glove box. Remove the glove box stop on each side, then hang the glove box down. 2. Remove the filter lid (A) from the blower unit, then pull out the first dust and pollen filter (B). Slide the second filter to the left, and pull it out. 3. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter. 4. Install the filters in the reverse order of removal. Application and ID Ground To Components Index Page 587 39. Door Lower Switch, Right Rear 40. Door Upper Switch, Left Rear 41. Door Upper Switch, Right Rear Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index ECM/PCM Terminal Values Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection ECM/PCM Terminal Values ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 1 Locations Power Window Switch: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Door, Roof And Seat Page 3791 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid B and C in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B, C and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance between the solenoid valve B terminals No. 1 and No. 2, and measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance between the solenoid valve C terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance of either of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. Page 7768 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Diagrams 47. Hatch Latch Switch 74. Tailgate Latch Switch, Left 74. Tailgate Latch Switch, Right Page 3707 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 7573 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 6514 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 5091 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 1034 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 7587 179. Power Mirror Switch (EX; Canada: DX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 3134 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5767 Rear Knuckle: Service and Repair Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Hub disassembly tool 07965-SA70100 ^ Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 ^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 ^ Driver 07749-0010000 ^ Support base 07965-SD90100 Knuckle Replacement 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Page 8468 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 3323 Evaporative Shut Valve: Service and Repair EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Replacement 1. Remove the EVAP canister. 2. Pry the lock tabs outward (A), then remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve (B). NOTE: Be careful not to damage the lock tabs. 3. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). NOTE: Do not coat the O-ring with engine oil etc. Page 2245 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 6826 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 451 ERROR: undefined OFFENDING COMMAND: ‘~ STACK: Page 134 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1632 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 7589 Power Mirror Switch: Service and Repair Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector from the power mirror switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the switch. Page 5768 2. Release the parking brake lever. 3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and hang the caliper (C) to one side. To prevent damage to the caliper or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the undercarriage. 5. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screw (A), and screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the brake disc/drum (B) to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the brake disc/drum excessively. Remove the brake disc/drum. Page 7786 - Remove the engine mount bracket extension, and leave the engine mount bracket attached to the front side frame. - Check the engine mount bracket position, and check for damage. If necessary, replace it. Damper Housing: Page 1880 82. Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid (VTEC Solenoid Valve) Page 5960 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 4050 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 8260 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1836 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 1552 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 8458 8. Horn Switch Specifications Axle Nut: Specifications Front Axle Nut ...................................................................................................................................... ................................................. 245 nm (181 lb. ft.) Rear Axle Nut ...................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 181 nm (134 lb. ft.) Page 3354 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 4800 Brake Pad: Service and Repair Rear Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Replacement 1. Hold the pins (A) with a wrench, being careful not to damage the pin boots. Remove the caliper bolts (B), and remove the caliper (C) from the caliper bracket. 2. Remove the pad shims (A) and pads (B). 3. Remove the pad retainers (A). 4. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. 5. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks. Page 7180 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Component Tests and General Diagnostics Power Window Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics Resetting the Power Window Control Unit Resetting the power window control unit is required after performing the following procedures: - Loss of battery power - Loss of power from the No. 23 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box - Open circuit caused by disconnecting the 14P connector from the power window master switch 1. Make sure the driver's window does not work in AUTO with the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Start the engine. 3. Lower the driver's window all the way down by pushing the driver's power window switch to the second detent; when the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the DOWN position for 2 seconds. 4. Raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping by pulling driver's power window switch to the second detent; when the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the UP position for 2 seconds. 5. If the window does not work in AUTO, repeat steps 2 through 5. Page 8102 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 4870 9. Reinstall the upper return springs (A). 10. Install the rear brake disc/drum and rear brake caliper. 11. Do the major adjustment for the parking brake. Lining Break-in NOTE: Perform brake linings surface brake-in when replacing shoes with new linings and/or new rear brake disc/drum. Do this operation in a safe area. 1. Park the vehicle on a firm, level surface. 2. Do the major parking brake adjustment. 3. Do the minor parking brake adjustment. 4. Drive the vehicle at 31 mph (50 km/h). 5. Pull the parking brake lever two to four clicks while driving the vehicle for 400 m (1/4 mile). 6. Stop the vehicle, and release the parking brake lever for 5-10 minutes to allow the drums to cool. Repeat steps 4 through 6 three more times. 7. Check the parking brake lever adjustment. Page 1903 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 3915 18. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 19. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 20. Remove the O/D switch harness clamp from the shift lever bracket and from the harness, and pull the O/D switch harness out to remove the shift lever assembly. 21. Insert the new O/D switch harness (A) into the shift lever ring (B), and route the harness through the groove (C) of the shift lever (D) into the hole (E). Do not pinch the harness. 22. Wind the O/D switch harness (A) one turn around the clamp (B) on the bottom of the shift lever. 23. Install the harness clamp (C) at the reference tape (D) on the harness, then install the clamp in the hole (E) of the shift lever bracket (F). Page 2535 SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. Locations Clutch Switch: Locations Starting System Component Location Index Page 3071 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 128 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 6918 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Alarm Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Page 6427 2. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner. Insert the cloth between the seat belt and metal loop on the upper anchor. Use a credit card or similar item to help insert the cloth into the loop. Work the cloth back and forth to clean the dirt out of the inside of the loop. 3. Pull the seat belt out fully. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner, and clean both sides of the seat belt webbing. Dry the webbing thoroughly with a clean cloth. Do not use a hair dryer or similar device. 4. Test the belt for proper retraction by pulling the latch plate down to the floor of the vehicle and then releasing it. The belt should retract fully in 4 seconds or less. Three-Point Passive Seat Belts 1. Clean the metal loop in the upper anchor as described for Three-Point Active Seat Belts. 2. Remove the door panel and the seat belt guide. Refer to the appropriate service manual. 3. Soak a clean cloth in the cleaner, and clean both sides of the seat belt webbing. Dry the webbing thoroughly with a clean cloth. Do not use a hair dryer or similar device. Page 229 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 6308 Locations Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 2788 56. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM/PCM connector terminal E7. Is there continuity? YES - Test PGM-FI main relay 1. If the relay is OK, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and the ECM/PCM (E7). 57. Reconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 58. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 59. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminals A2 and A3 individually. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 66. NO - Go to step 60. 60. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 61. Remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (A). 62. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 4995 Alternator: Testing and Inspection Alternator FR Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Monitor the ALTERNATOR in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 3. Check if the indicated percentage varies when the lighting switch is ON. Does the percentage vary? YES - The alternator signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Turn the lighting switch and ignition switch OFF. 5. Disconnect the alternator 4P connector. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 7. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A9 and 813. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Go to step 13. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P). 11. Connect alternator 4P connector terminal No.4 to body ground with a jumper wire. Page 6472 Seat Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Disposal of Damaged Components Disposal of Damaged Components 1. If installed in a vehicle, follow the removal procedure for the driver's airbag, front passenger's airbag, side airbag, seat belt tensioner, and seat belt buckle tensioner. 2. In all cases, make a short circuit by cutting, stripping, and twisting together the like-colored inflator wires. NOTE: The driver's and passenger's airbag each have four wires: twist each pair of like-colored wires together. 3. Package the component in the same packaging that the new replacement part came in. 4. Mark the outside of the box "DAMAGED AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED", "DAMAGED SIDE AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED", "DAMAGED SEAT BELT TENSIONER NOT DEPLOYED" or "DAMAGED SEAT BELT BUCKLE TENSIONER NOT DEPLOYED" so it does not get confused with your parts stock. 5. Contact your Honda District Parts and Service Manager for how and where to return the part for disposal. Page 4520 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Page 6379 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Page 3471 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor (A). 2. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 4771 Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ To prevent dripping, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels. ^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air. ^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles. ^ Replace parts with new ones as specified in the illustration. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid. ^ When reusing pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency. ^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 brake fluid. Non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system. ^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible. ^ Coat the piston, piston seal groove, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid. ^ Make sure no grease or oil gets on the brake discs or pads. ^ Replace all rubber parts with new ones whenever disassembled. ^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting. Page 1948 Spark Plug: Application and ID Spark Plug Type NGK ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. IZFR6K-11 DENSO ................................................................................................................................................ ....................................................... SKJ20DR-M11 Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 13 ft lb (18 Nm) Gap ..................................................................... ................................................................................................................ 0.039-0.043 inch (1.0-1.1 mm) Page 4095 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and verify that the R position indicator comes on. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Install the shift cable to the shift lever, refer to shift cable adjustment. Page 2263 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2057 12. Remove the jumper wire, and measure the voltage between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for an open in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G301. NO - Repair open in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and the underhood fuse/relay box. Page 3068 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Page 5191 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 654 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Adjustments Cruise Control Servo Cable: Adjustments Actuator Cable Adjustment 1. Check that the actuator cable (A) moves smoothly with no binding or sticking. 2. Measure the amount of movement of the output linkage (B) until the engine speed starts to increase. At first, the output linkage should be located at the fully closed position (C). The free play (D) should be 3.75 ± 0.5 mm (0.15 ± 0.02 in.). 3. If the free play is not within specs, loosen the locknut (E), and turn the adjusting nut (F) until the free play is as specified, then retighten the locknut. Locations Horn Switch: Locations Horn Component Location Index Engine Controls - DTC P0171 Set Absolute Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P0171 Set SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Got a DTC P0171? Check the Short-Term Fuel Trim APPLIES TO: 03-04 Accord 01-04 Civic 02-04 CR-V 03-04 Element 02-04 Odyssey 03-04 Pilot SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that purrs like a kitten but it sets a DTC P0171 (fuel system too lean)? Check the short-term fuel trim (ST FUEL TRIM B1). If the value reads higher than 1.05, then check the MAP SENSOR value with the engine turned off and the ignition switch turned to ON (II). - If the MAP SENSOR and BARO SENSOR values match, the MAP sensor is working OK. Do the normal troubleshooting for DTC P0171. - If the MAP SENSOR and BARO SENSOR values don't match, install a known-good MAP sensor, and retest. If the sensor values now match, clear the DTC, and make sure the ST FUEL TRIM B1 value is normal (it reads about 1.0). Page 6470 9. Cut off each connector, strip the ends of the wires, and connect the deployment tool alligator clips (A) to the wires. Place the deployment tool at least 30 feet (10 meters) away from the vehicle. NOTE: The driver's and the front passenger's airbags have four wires each, two yellow and two red. Twist each pair of unlike colored wires together, and connect an alligator clip to each pair. 10. Connect a 12 volt battery to the tool. - If the green light on the tool comes on, the igniter circuit is defective and cannot deploy the component. Go to Disposal of Damaged Components. - If the red light on the tool comes on, the component is ready to be deployed. 11. Push the tool's deployment switch. The airbags and tensioners should deploy (deployment is both highly audible and visible: a loud noise and rapid inflation of the bag, followed by slow deflation). If the components deploy and the green light on the tool comes on, continue with this procedure. - If a component doesn't deploy, yet the green light comes on, its igniter is defective. Go to Disposal of Damaged Components. - During deployment, the airbags can become hot enough to burn you. Wait 30 minutes after deployment before touching the airbags. 12. Dispose of the complete airbag. No part of it can be reused. Place it in a sturdy plastic bag (A), and seal it securely. Page 2617 10. Check for continuity between DLC terminal No.7 and ECM/PCM terminal E23. Is there continuity? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.7 and the ECM/PCM (E23). After repairing the wire, check for a DTC with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS, then go to the DTC Troubleshooting index. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions 11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 13. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 14. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 15. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.5 and No.7. Is there 0 V? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair short to power in the wire between DLC terminal No.7 and the ECM/PCM (E23). After repairing the wire, check for a DTC with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS, then go to the DTC Troubleshooting index. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions Page 7888 2. Inspect the run channel for damage. ^ If it is damaged, replace it, then recheck the noise level. ^ If the run channel is not damaged, go to step 3. 3. Remove the door panel. 4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for excessive resistance. ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 5. ^ If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 6. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. ^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required. ^ If the window noise symptoms are still present, go to step 6. 6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it and adjust as needed. Page 4740 Brake Warning Indicator: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 1750 Installation 1. Remove old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes. 2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces. 3. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, evenly to the cylinder block mating surface of the oil pan and to the inner threads of the bolt holes. NOTE: Do not install the parts if4 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing old residue. 4. Install the oil pan. 5. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft. lbs.). 6. Install the stiffener (M/T). 7. If the engine is still in the vehicle, install the subframe. 1. support the subframe with the special tool and a jack, and lift it up to body, then loosely install the new subframe mounting bolts. 2. Align the reference marks with the center of the subframe mounting bolts, then tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 3. Install the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) filter mounting bolt. 4 Tighten the rear mount mounting bolts. 5. Tighten the front mount mounting bolt. 6. Connect the suspension lower arm ball joints. 8. After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil. Restraints - Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Missing Child Seat: Customer Interest Restraints - Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Missing 05-016 May 17, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Is Missing PROBLEM The small button on the rear seat-back cover that marks the location of each child seat LATCH lower anchor is missing. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2001-05 Accord - ALL 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2003-05 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2002-05 Civic Si - ALL 2001-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-05 Element - ALL 2001-05 Odyssey - ALL 2003-05 Pilot - ALL CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the button. NOTE: Older vehicles have buttons without a child seat icon. The buttons in newer vehicles and the replacement buttons all have an icon. If your customer requests matching buttons, replace all the buttons at the same time as a set. PARTS INFORMATION Child Seat ISOFIX Button Kit: (Kit contains buttons in nine different colors; 10 buttons of each color.) P/N 070AZ-SHJA190, H/C 7979016 Child Seat ISOFIX Button Kit Replacement Parts: Page 7308 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 8285 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. CMP Pulse Plate Replacement Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Replacement CMP Pulse Plate A Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate A. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate A in the reverse order of removal. CMP Pulse Plate B Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. Page 2344 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor (A). 2. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 4011 Page 234 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 6503 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Page 6363 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Initializing the OPDS Unit Initializing the OPDS (Occupant Position Detection System) Unit with HDS When a seat-back cover, seat-back cushion, and/or OPDS unit is replaced, initialize the OPDS by following the procedure. NOTE: A new (uninitialized) OPDS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 15-1. 1. Erase the DTC memory (see "Erasing the DTC Memory"). 2. Make sure the front passenger's seat is dry. Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 3. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 6. From the HDS Main Menu, select SRS, Misc Test, and Adjustments. Then select OPDS INIT to initialize the OPDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. NOTE: If the OPDS system fails to initialize after several attempts, replace the OPDS sensor and retry. If the OPDS system continues to fail to initialize, replace the OPDS unit. Initializing the OPDS (Occupant Position Detection System) Unit with Manual Mode Special Tools Required SCS service connector 07PAZ-0010100 When a seat-back cover, seat-back cushion, and/or OPDS unit is replaced, initialize the OPDS by following the procedure. NOTE: A new (uninitialized) OPDS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 15-1. 1. Erase the DTC memory (see "Erasing the DTC Memory"). 2. Make sure the front passenger's seat is dry. Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 3. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 5. From the HDS Main Menu, select SRS. In the PROGRAM MENU of the HDS, select SCS. Page 3124 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 6821 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 1047 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 2875 DTC P1861 thru P2238 Page 5023 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Locations 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment (EX) Brakes - Front Brake Clicking Noise Brake Pad: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Front Brake Clicking Noise 03-033 January 9, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Clicking Noise From Front Brakes (Supersedes 03-033, dated June 3, 2003) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM Clicking noise from front calipers when first applying the brakes after a change in direction. PROBABLE CAUSE The clearance between the front pads and the calipers allows the pads to move slightly. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the front brake pad lower retainer clips. REQUIRED MATERIALS Dow Corning Molykote M77 Assembly Paste: P/N 08798-9010, H/C 4503793 PARTS INFORMATION Pad Clip (two required): P/N 45237-S9A-A01 H/C 7462245 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 410150 Flat Rate Time: 0.7 hour Failed Part: P/N 45237-S9A-003 H/C 7104078 *Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 04213* Page 8345 181. DRL Control Unit (Canada) Page 8278 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 7689 ^ Refer to page 23-24 of the service manual, or ^ Refer to service bulletin 02-052 Initializing the OPDS Unit. 13. With side airbags: Enter the radio anti-theft code, then enter the customer's presets. Set the clock. 14. With side airbags: Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's window power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. ^ Keep the engine running. 15. With side airbags: Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Let the engine warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes. Disclaimer Page 5131 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 862 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 8376 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4278 7. Measure and mark the band with a felt-tip pen at the specified distance from the clip: ^ If you are installing a new boot, mark the band approximately 10 to 14 mm (0.4 to 0.6 in.) from the clip. ^ If you are reinstalling the original boot, mark the band 10 mm (0.4 in.) from the clip. 8. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the boot band tool and into the slot on the winding mandrel. 9. Take up the slack in the boot band by hand, then slowly turn the winding mandrel with a wrench. Tighten the band until the mark you made in step 7 meets the edge of the clip. 10. Raise up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees, then center-punch the clip to hold the band temporarily. Page 331 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 2780 Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection MIL Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Do the gauge self-diagnostic procedure. Does the MIL indicator flash? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Substitute a known-good gauge assembly, and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK, replace the original gauge assembly. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the MIL. Does the MIL stay off? YES - Go to step 19. NO - Go to step 5. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), wait 20 seconds, and watch the MIL. Does the MIL stay on or flash more than 5 times? YES - Go to step 7. NO - The MIL circuit is OK. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and read the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS communicate with the ECM/PCM? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Go to "DLC Circuit Troubleshooting". 10. Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs in the DTCs MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs indicated? YES - Go to the DTC Troubleshooting Index. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions NO - Go to step 11. 11. Check the MIL in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Is it ON indicated? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Substitute a known-good gauge assembly, and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK, replace the original gauge assembly. 12. Check the SCS in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Is a short indicated? YES - Go to step 13. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Page 6867 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Brakes - Front Brake Clicking Noise Brake Pad: Customer Interest Brakes - Front Brake Clicking Noise 03-033 January 9, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Clicking Noise From Front Brakes (Supersedes 03-033, dated June 3, 2003) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM Clicking noise from front calipers when first applying the brakes after a change in direction. PROBABLE CAUSE The clearance between the front pads and the calipers allows the pads to move slightly. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the front brake pad lower retainer clips. REQUIRED MATERIALS Dow Corning Molykote M77 Assembly Paste: P/N 08798-9010, H/C 4503793 PARTS INFORMATION Pad Clip (two required): P/N 45237-S9A-A01 H/C 7462245 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 410150 Flat Rate Time: 0.7 hour Failed Part: P/N 45237-S9A-003 H/C 7104078 *Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 04213* Page 5075 67. Behind Glove Box Page 3894 (A/T) Page 5941 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 7487 Programming the Transmitter 1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat. 2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a square, yellow button; this is the programming button. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals. 5. Release the programming button. 6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the system exits the programming mode. 7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK" button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.) 8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 9. Test all the transmitters. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 5431 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2314 68. Behind Glove Box Page 4731 Wire Color Codes Page 8105 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 5947 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 7984 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 1959 5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct. 6. Tighten the locknut, and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. 7. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 8. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 9. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 10. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder. 11. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 12. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No.2 cylinder. 13. Install the cylinder head cover. Locations 111. Middle Side Of Hatch Page 3479 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 6202 5. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connector (A) from the rear door wire harness. Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner 6. Disconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connector (A). SRS Unit 7. Disconnect SRS unit connector A, SRS unit connector B, or SRS unit connector C from the SRS unit. Page 8374 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 7917 Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pedal Position Switch Test 1. Disconnect the 2P connector from the clutch pedal position switch (A). 2. Remove the clutch pedal position switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. - If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch pedal position switch. - If OK, install the clutch pedal position switch and adjust the pedal height. Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 2128 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 723 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Service and Repair Power Steering Hoses, Lines, and Pressure Switch Replacement Note these items during installation: ^ Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from the hose end as shown. ^ Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new ones if necessary. ^ Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the reservoir and check for leaks. Page 1403 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 6644 Page 6589 2003-04 Accord DX with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Element with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system 2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot EX models with factory-installed security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 91-93 Accord 5-D00R EX Page 1856 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 7189 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Page 625 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate B. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate B in the reverse order of removal. Page 3761 14. If the valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Page 6546 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. Page 8522 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Control Unit Input Test Wiper Control Module: Testing and Inspection Control Unit Input Test Control Unit Input Test 1. Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. 2. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors B, F, G, J, X and Y. NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals. 4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals are OK, go to step 5. 5. Reconnect the connectors, and make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 4694 4. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B) on the pedal arm). Then, turn the switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.4 to 3.0 mm (0.016 - 0.118 inch) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released. 5. Check the brake pedal free play. Pedal Free Play 1. With the engine off, inspect the play (A) on the pedal pad (B) by pushing the pedal by hand. Free Play: 1 - 5 mm (1/16 - 3/16 inch) 2. If the pedal free play is out of specification, adjust the brake pedal position switch (C). If the pedal free play is insufficient, it may result in brake drag. Page 4877 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the connector from the parking brake switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (B) and body ground. ^ With the parking brake lever pulled, there should be continuity. ^ With the parking brake lever released, there should be no continuity. NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, troubleshoot the ABS. ^ If the parking brake switch and brake fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator does not work, check the ABS. Page 8323 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 2566 3. Replace the plug at the specified interval or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the spark plugs listed. 4. Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. Then torque them to 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft). Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 3674 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Use the HDS to clear DTC P0420. 2. Make sure you have the iN CD (June '03 or later) loaded into your iN master terminal. If not, load the CD using the instructions that come with it. 3. Update the ECM/PCM software with the Honda Interface Module (HIM). Refer to S/B 01-023, Using the Honda Interface Module to Update Control Units/Modules. Disclaimer Page 754 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM/PCM. The TP sensor is not available separately from the throttle body. Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 7384 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. Page 3135 80. VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Page 4989 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 8315 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2058 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Testing and Inspection Radiator Fan Switch Circuit Circuit Open Troubleshooting Troubleshooting (Open) NOTE: Before beginning this troubleshooting procedure, refer to the symptom troubleshooting index. 1. Disconnect the radiator fan switch 2P connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Measure voltage between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Repair open in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and under-hood fuse/relay box. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and check for continuity between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the radiator fan switch. NO - Check for an open in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G301. Circuit Shorted Troubleshooting Troubleshooting (Short) NOTE: Before beginning this troubleshooting procedure, refer to the symptom troubleshooting index. 1. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the radiator fan relay. 2. Remove the radiator fan switch, and test it. Is the radiator fan switch OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the radiator fan switch. 3. Disconnect the under-hood fuse relay box 14P connector. Page 8529 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Locations Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 3006 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases. Page 5100 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Campaign - Warranty Extension for The Windshield Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - Warranty Extension for The Windshield 06-084 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2003-04 Element - ALL Warranty Extension: 2003-04 Element Windshield (Supersedes 06-084, dated November 22, 2008) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND Under the terms of a class action settlement, American Honda is announcing a warranty extension for 2003-04 Element windshields. The windshields on these vehicles are now covered for cracking (under most conditions) for 6 years or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. *NOTE: Because of a different class action settlement unrelated to the windshield, the warranty extension coverage for windshields on affected vehicles purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 6 years or 63,000 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION Customers were notified of the warranty extension through a letter sent to them by Gilardi Co., LLC. The text of the letter is shown above. Customer reimbursement forms are only available at the Gilardi website www.gilardi.com/hondaelement. Customers must send their request for reimbursement directly to Gilardi Co. within the timeline set by the court. Under the terms of the settlement, Honda dealerships cannot make reimbursements. Page 4055 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Specifications Intake Manifold: Specifications Intake Manifold Torque specifications Intake Manifold Tighten the bolts/nuts in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps, beginning with the inner bolt. Page 6411 5. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connector (A) from the rear door wire harness. Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner 6. Disconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connector (A). SRS Unit 7. Disconnect SRS unit connector A, SRS unit connector B, or SRS unit connector C from the SRS unit. Front Seat Belt: Service and Repair Front Front Seat Belt Front Seat Belt Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. NOTE: Check the front seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to damage them during removal and installation. Front Seat Belt 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Using a wrapped flat-tip screwdriver with protective tape, pry the lower anchor cap (A) out, and remove the lower anchor bolt (B). 4. Remove the rear door panel. 5. Remove the upper anchor cover (A), and remove the upper anchor bolt (B). Suspension - Front End Clanking/Clunking On Bumps Control Arm Bushing: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Front End Clanking/Clunking On Bumps 09-023 April 11, 2009 Applies To: 2003-07 Element ALL 2008 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...8L000001 thru 5J6YH1...8L017044 2008 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...8L000001 thru 5J6YH2...8L019754 Clanking or Knocking Noise From the Front Suspension While Going Over Bumps SYMPTOM The front suspension clanks or knocks while going over bumps. PROBABLE CAUSE The compliance bushings in the front lower arms are cracked. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace both front compliance bushings, and do a wheel alignment. PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Page 5025 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 6268 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 4981 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 2477 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor B Replacement CMP Sensor B Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve. 3. Disconnect the CMP sensor B connector (A). 4. Remove CMP sensor B (B). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 8604 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 6502 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 5483 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4292 8. With ABS: Remove the flange bolt (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm (E). 10. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin into the ball joint pin from the inside to the outside of the vehicle. The closed end of the lock pin must be in the range shown. 11. Disconnect the lower arm from the knuckle using the special tool. Page 2854 56. PSP Switch Testing and Inspection Wheels: Testing and Inspection Wheel Runout Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Check for bent or deformed wheels. 3. Set up the dial gauge as shown, and measure axial runout by turning the wheel. Front and rear wheel axial runout: 4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and measure the radial runout. 5. If the wheel runout is not within the specification, check the wheel bearing end play, and make sure the mating surfaces on the brake disc and the inside of the wheel are clean. 6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service limit, replace the wheel. Page 6211 9. Cut off each connector, strip the ends of the wires, and connect the deployment tool alligator clips (A) to the wires. Place the deployment tool at least 30 feet (10 meters) away from the vehicle. NOTE: The driver's and the front passenger's airbags have four wires each, two yellow and two red. Twist each pair of unlike colored wires together, and connect an alligator clip to each pair. 10. Connect a 12 volt battery to the tool. - If the green light on the tool comes on, the igniter circuit is defective and cannot deploy the component. Go to Disposal of Damaged Components. - If the red light on the tool comes on, the component is ready to be deployed. 11. Push the tool's deployment switch. The airbags and tensioners should deploy (deployment is both highly audible and visible: a loud noise and rapid inflation of the bag, followed by slow deflation). If the components deploy and the green light on the tool comes on, continue with this procedure. - If a component doesn't deploy, yet the green light comes on, its igniter is defective. Go to Disposal of Damaged Components. - During deployment, the airbags can become hot enough to burn you. Wait 30 minutes after deployment before touching the airbags. 12. Dispose of the complete airbag. No part of it can be reused. Place it in a sturdy plastic bag (A), and seal it securely. Page 7925 178. Cruise Control Actuator (EX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 6650 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Balancer Shaft Buzz Or Rattle Is Normal Balance Shaft: Technical Service Bulletins Balancer Shaft Buzz Or Rattle Is Normal SOURCE: Honda Service News June 2004 TITLE: Balancer Shaft Buzz or Rattle Is Normal APPLIES TO: A/T-equipped 2003-04 Accord L4s, 2002-04 CR-Vs, and 2003-04 Elements. SERVICE TIP: Have customers complained of a buzz or rattle when the vehicle is sitting in Park or Neutral and the engine is winding down from 3,000 to 2,000 rpm? What they're hearing is a harmonic resonation coming from the oil pump and balancer shaft assemblies, which is a normal characteristic of the vehicle. Don't bother replacing engine components; it won't change or reduce this condition. Diagram Information and Instructions Information Bus: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1312 Power Steering Fluid: Service and Repair Replacement Check the reservoir (A) at regular intervals, and add the recommended fluid as necessary. Always use Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather. SYSTEM CAPACITY: 0.83 L (0.87 US. qt) at disassembly RESERVOIR CAPACITY: 0.27 L (0.28 US. qt) 1. Raise the reservoir, then disconnect the return hose (A) to drain the reservoir. Take care not to spill the fluid on the body and parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once. 2. Connect a hose (B) of suitable diameter to the disconnected return hose, and put the hose end in a suitable container. 3. Start the engine, let it run at idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times. When fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the engine. Discard the fluid. 4. Reinstall the return hose on the reservoir. 5. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line (C). 6. Start the engine and run it at fast idle, then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from the system. 7. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary. Do not fill the reservoir beyond the upper level line. Page 3795 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 3. Remove the mounting bolts, harness clamp brackets (A), and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 4. Remove the ATF joint pipes (D), O-rings (E), and gasket (F). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and harness clamp brackets. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect them securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 1485 ^ Reversible drill motor (800 RPM MAX) ^ Tire spreader ^ Inspection lamp * For repairable injuries that exceed 25 degrees TIRE REPAIR GUIDELINES Never repair tires worn below 2/32 inch of tread. Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection. Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm). Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury. NOTE: If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as recommended by the RMA. MICHELIN PAX SYSTEM SUPPORT RING INSPECTION PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated, dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION, select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list. Disclaimer Page 3116 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 1771 Intake Manifold: Service and Repair Removal 1. Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector (A). Page 8257 Page 500 121. Right Side Of Engine Locations Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 409 Power Door Lock Switch: Diagrams 95. Door Lock Knob Switch, Driver's 138. Door Lock Switch, Driver's Page 7058 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. Page 2244 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 1118 ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. Page 3621 Page 761 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B CMP sensor B detects the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. Service and Repair Steering Column Lock: Service and Repair Steering Lock Replacement 1. Remove the steering column. 2. Center punch each of the two shear bolts, and drill their heads off with a 5 mm (3/16 inch) drill bit. Be careful not to damage the switch body when removing the shear bolts. 3. Remove the shear bolts from the switch body. 4. Install the switch body without the key inserted. 5. Loosely tighten the new shear bolts. 6. Insert the ignition key, and check for proper operation of the steering wheel lock and that the ignition key turns freely. 7. Tighten the shear bolts (A) until the hex heads (B) twist off. Page 8600 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 2296 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7283 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 3744 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and connect the DLC cable to the vehicle's DLC. In the Updating Honda Control Modules screen, click on the check mark. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. NOTE: Update the Systems one at a time. 4. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark. Page 3232 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 4943 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 3108 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 8034 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1154 Compression Check: Testing and Inspection Engine Compression Inspection NOTE: After this inspection, you must select Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reset using the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) otherwise the ECM/PCM continues to stop the fuel injectors. 1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the Data Link Connector (DLC). 4. Select PGM-FI, select inspection, then select the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 5. Remove the four ignition coils. 6. Remove the four spark plugs. 7. Attach the compression gauge to the spark plug hole. 8. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression. Compression Pressure: Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi) 9. Measure the compression on the remaining cylinders. Maximum variation: Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi) 10. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the compression. - Damaged or worn valves and seats - Damaged cylinder head gasket - Damaged or worn piston rings - Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore 11. Select the ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF function. 12. Perform the Crankshaft Position (CKP) pattern clear/ CKP pattern learn procedure. 13. Perform the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. Page 2496 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 8634 Page 4012 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Page 2246 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Locations Cruise Control Servo: Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Service and Repair Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair Cowl Cover Replacement 1. Remove the windshield wiper arms. 2. Remove the passenger's cowl cover (A) and the driver's cowl cover (B).Take care not to scratch the body. 1. Using a clip remover, detach the clips (C), then remove the hood rear seal (D). 2. Using a clip remover, remove the clips (E) from the cowl covers. 3. Release the windshield washer tube (F). 4. Detach the clips (G, H) and release the hooks (I, J) by carefully pulling the passenger's cowl cover upward. 5. Pull the cover forward to release the hooks (K), and pull the hinge cover (L) out from the front fender (M), then remove the passenger's cowl cover. 6. Detach the clips (G, H, N), and release the hook (0) by carefully pulling the driver's cowl cover upward. 7. Pull the cover forward to release the hooks (P), and pull the hinge cover (Q) out from the front fender (R), then remove the driver's cowl cover. 3. Install the cowl covers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips and hooks into place securely. Page 7989 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 8682 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 6304 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Page 6708 NOTE: It is very important that you fill out this form fully and accurately. An accurate explanation of the problem and conditions helps the manufacturer to duplicate the problem, speeding the repair, and reducing the number of No Trouble Found" (NTF) units. Disclaimer Page 5888 Service and Repair Front Door Panel: Service and Repair Front Door Panel Removal/Installation Special Tools Required - KTC trim tool set SOJATP204 - Trim pad remover, Snap-on A 177A or equivalent, commercially available NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. 1. Remove the inner handle (A). 1. Using the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set, pry out on the upper position of the cover (B) to release the upper hook (C), and pull up the cover to release the lower hooks (D), then remove the cover. 2. Remove the screws. 3. Release the hook (E), and pull the inner handle forward and out half-way to release the hook (F). 4. Disconnect the inner handle rod (G). 5. Disconnect the power door lock switch connector (H). 2. Pull out on the speaker cover (A) to detach the hooks (B) and clips (C), then remove the cover. 3. Remove the screws (D), then remove the speaker (E) (for some models), and disconnect its connector (F). Page 6922 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 5892 2. Remove the wheel cap, wheel nuts, and front wheel. 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. Page 6409 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing a front airbag, side airbag, or other SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel, the front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, the seat belt buckle tensioners, and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors or the side airbag connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector A (1) from the SRS unit, disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3), the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (4), the driver's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (6), and the front passenger's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (7). - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B (8) from the SRS unit, disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (11, 12), and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (9, 10). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (2), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3). - Before disconnecting the floor wire harness 4P connector (5), disconnect both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (6, 7). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. Driver's Airbag Service and Repair Overdrive Switch: Service and Repair O/D Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 6794 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6632 96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System 1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. Programming the Transmitter 1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor underneath the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. 3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK, then to ON. Page 5195 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 3995 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 1979 Disclaimer Page 3441 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire. Page 4663 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Testing and Inspection A/C Signal: Testing and Inspection A/C Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine. 2. Turn the blower switch ON. 3. Turn the A/C switch ON. 4. Check the A/C CLUTCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Is it ON? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to the A/C pressure switch test. 5. Check the A/C system. Does the A/C system operate? YES - The air conditioning system circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Activate the A/C CLUTCH in the INSPECTION MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Is there a clicking noise from the A/C compressor clutch? YES - Go to the A/C Section, and lock for the other symptoms. NO - Go to step 9. 9. Momentarily connect under-hood fuse/relay box 14P connector terminal No.10 to body ground with a jumper wire several times. Is there clicking noise from the A/C compressor clutch? YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E18) and the A/C clutch relay NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM replace the original ECM/PCM. Page 2256 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 4996 12. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal B13. Is there continuity? YES - Test the alternator. NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B13) and the alternator. 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 15. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P). 16. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal B13. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B13) and the alternator. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 219 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5147 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6574 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. Page 2857 14. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine. 15. Check the PSPSW in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to OFF? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 17. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector. 18. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 19. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 20. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 to body ground with a jumper wire. 21. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal E16. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and ECM/PCM (E16). Specifications Firing Order: Specifications Firing Order ......................................................................................................................................... ..................................................................... 1-3-4-2 Page 2655 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Page 2261 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2912 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (Part 2) Page 6780 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 1306 Engine Oil: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Warm up the engine. 2. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil. 3. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B). 4. Refill with the recommended oil. Capacity 4.0 L (4.2 US qt) at oil change. 4.2 L (4.4 US qt) at oil change including filter. 5.3 L (5.6 US qt) after engine overhaul. 5. Run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage. Page 7303 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 3387 142. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 & 2 Restraints - Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Missing Child Seat: All Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Missing 05-016 May 17, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Child Seat Anchor Locating Button Is Missing PROBLEM The small button on the rear seat-back cover that marks the location of each child seat LATCH lower anchor is missing. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2001-05 Accord - ALL 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2003-05 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2002-05 Civic Si - ALL 2001-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-05 Element - ALL 2001-05 Odyssey - ALL 2003-05 Pilot - ALL CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the button. NOTE: Older vehicles have buttons without a child seat icon. The buttons in newer vehicles and the replacement buttons all have an icon. If your customer requests matching buttons, replace all the buttons at the same time as a set. PARTS INFORMATION Child Seat ISOFIX Button Kit: (Kit contains buttons in nine different colors; 10 buttons of each color.) P/N 070AZ-SHJA190, H/C 7979016 Child Seat ISOFIX Button Kit Replacement Parts: Page 3975 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 460 87. Wheel Speed Sensor, Right Rear (EX) Page 7441 Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide 90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL 1990-93 Accord (2-door and 4-door) with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1993 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: Page 2037 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 7431 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Page 646 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 3343 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 5889 Wheel Bearing: Testing and Inspection End Play Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts. 3. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. Front/rear: Standard: 0 - 0.05 mm (0 - 0.002 inch) 4. Measure the bearing end play moving the brake disc inward or outward. 5. If the bearing end play measurement is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing. Page 1828 12. Right Side Of Engine Page 2042 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 8271 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 255 and the bracket. 6. Remove the nuts (C), then remove the ECM/PCM (D). Page 5549 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 4732 Page 1365 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1079 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 4920 Wheel Speed Sensor: Diagrams 84. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Front (EX) 85. Wheel Speed Sensor, Left Rear (EX) 86. Wheel Speed Sensor, Right Front (EX) Page 842 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 1018 Wiper Switch: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the wiper/washer switch (B) 4. Remove the two screws, then pull out the wiper/washer switch. 5. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 4958 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 7458 96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System 1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. Programming the Transmitter 1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor underneath the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. 3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK, then to ON. Page 2438 106. TP Sensor Page 5461 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. Page 1344 5. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 2P connector (A) from the rear door wire harness. Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner 6. Disconnect the seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connector (A). SRS Unit 7. Disconnect SRS unit connector A, SRS unit connector B, or SRS unit connector C from the SRS unit. Page 7459 6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work repeat steps 2 thru 7. 9. If you have another transmitter to program, repeat steps 2 thru 7. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Passport With Factory-Installed Security System 1998-02 Passport with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter To program the transmitters, use one of these two procedures: ^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed. ^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters. Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Procedure Two (adds transmitters) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the Page 6926 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 8371 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 5605 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Service and Repair Power Steering Hoses, Lines, and Pressure Switch Replacement Note these items during installation: ^ Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from the hose end as shown. ^ Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new ones if necessary. ^ Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the reservoir and check for leaks. Page 5603 14. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine. 15. Check the PSPSW in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to OFF? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 17. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector. 18. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 19. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 20. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 to body ground with a jumper wire. 21. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal E16. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and ECM/PCM (E16). Page 7483 The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart, look at the FCC ID on the back. 1999-00 - FCC ID: E4EG8DN 2001-04 - FCC ID: OUCG8D-440H-A* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-01 Prelude With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 1999-01 Prelude with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 4094 Shifter A/T: Service and Repair Shift Lever Installation Shift Lever Installation 1. Cover around the opening of the console with tape to prevent damage to the console. 2. Position the shift lever in the console. 3. Install the shift lever mounting bolt (A) loosely. 4. Install the shift cable bracket (B) with aligning the projections (C) to the holes of the shift lever bracket, and install the mounting bolt (D). 5. Connect the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (E), and install it on the shift cable bracket. 6. Secure the shift lever assembly with the mounting bolts. 7. Connect the park pin switch connector (A). 8. Tighten the shift lever mounting bolt that was loosely installed in step 3. Page 765 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor A Replacement CMP Sensor A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor A connector (A). 3. Remove the bolt (B). 4. Remove CMP sensor A (C). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 1904 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 5257 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 7471 Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide 90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL 1990-93 Accord (2-door and 4-door) with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1993 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1992-93 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: Page 2043 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Locations Hazard Flasher Relay: Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Component Location Index Page 4819 6. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line. Page 8430 Hazard Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Hazard Warning Switch Test 1. Remove the center panel. 2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the hazard warning switch (B). 3. Remove the two screws and the hazard warning switch. 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the illumination bulb (C) or the switch. 6. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal. Page 8259 Page 2293 142. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 & 2 Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 3390 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving With the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve fuel pressure from the system by stopping the fuel pump with the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). 1. Remove the fuel fill Gap. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. From the inspection menu of the Honda PGM Tester or HDS, select Fuel Pump OFF, start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. NOTE: Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the ECM/PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump. - A DTC or a temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them as needed. 5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 6. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 7. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean if it needed. 8. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). Page 5898 2. Release the parking brake lever. 3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and hang the caliper (C) to one side. To prevent damage to the caliper or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the undercarriage. 5. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screw (A), and screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the brake disc/drum (B) to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the brake disc/drum excessively. Remove the brake disc/drum. Page 6376 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. CMP Pulse Plate Replacement Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Replacement CMP Pulse Plate A Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate A. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate A in the reverse order of removal. CMP Pulse Plate B Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. Page 3964 Specifications Camshaft Bearing: Specifications Camshaft Torque Specifications Specified Torque 8 mm bolts 22 N.m 6 mm bolts 12 N.m 6 mm bolts are # 21,22, and 23. Page 4220 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Have an assistant press the clutch pedal while you grasp the clutch line at the clutch master cylinder, and then at the slave cylinder. If you feel a vibration through the clutch line when you hear the noise or the noise stops, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. If you feel no vibration or the noise does not stop, look for other causes. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTICE Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. 1. Remove the clutch master cylinder. Refer to the appropriate service manual: 2003-04 Accord (L4): page 12-6 2003-04 Accord (V6): page 12-8 2001-04 Civic: page 12-5 2002-04 Civic Si: page 12-5 2003-04 Civic Hybrid: page 13-5 2002-04 CR-V: page 12-5 2003-04 Element: page 12-6 Enter keyword CLUTCH MASTER, and select Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement from the list. 2. Install the new clutch master cylinder, but do not attach the clutch line fitting. 3. Apply a thin coat of silicone grease to the clutch line fitting and to the opening in the clutch master cylinder. Do not use silicone spray; it could damage the 0-ring. 4. Connect the clutch line fitting to the clutch master cylinder. 5. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system, then top off the reservoir with brake fluid. 6. Check to see if the noise is gone when pressing the clutch pedal. ^ If the noise is gone, the repair is complete. Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage Paint: Technical Service Bulletins Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage 99-062 January 15, 2007 Applies To: ALL Paint Damage From Environmental Fallout (Supersedes 99-062, dated October 12, 1999 to update the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) SYMPTOM The exterior paint surface does not feel smooth after the vehicle is washed. PROBABLE CAUSE Environmental fallout (airborne metallic particles, tree sap, paint overspray, road tar, insect residue, etc.) has adhered to the exterior paint surface. NOTE: This form of paint damage should not be confused with acid rain damage. Unlike environmental fallout damage, acid rain damage appears on the paint surface as pits or water spots-possibly black or brown in the center-which may feel smooth to the touch. PREVENTION The shipping wax/wrap guard applied to the vehicle at the factory provides the best protection for the paint finish from environmental fallout and acid rain damage. American Honda strongly recommends that you leave the shipping wax/wrap guard on the vehicle for as long as possible. Your dealership is responsible for maintaining the vehicle's finish after the shipping wax/ wrap guard is removed. CORRECTIVE ACTION Select a product line from one of the manufacturers listed in REQUIRED MATERIALS to clean the paint surface and to wax it after cleaning. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for each of the products you use. REQUIRED MATERIALS Each of the clays listed should do at least three vehicles. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Page 2794 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the ECM/PCM. Page 4074 Page 1575 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Service and Repair VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is stuck or clogged, replace it, then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1 Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.) If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step?. Page 4743 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 2883 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 1883 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1. Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.). If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step 7. 7. Replace the VTC valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat a new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Locations Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Locations 95. Under Driver's Seat 96. Under Front Passenger's Seat Page 4202 8. Install the slave cylinder in the reverse order of removal. Install a new O-ring (A). 9. Pull the boot (B) back, and apply brake assembly lube to the boot and slave cylinder rod (C). Reinstall the boot. 10. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the push rod of the slave cylinder. Tighten the slave cylinder mounting bolts to 22 Nm (2.2 kgf-cm, 16 ft. lbs.) 11. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. ^ Attach a hose to the bleeder screw (A), and suspend the hose in a container of brake fluid. ^ Make sure there is an adequate supply of fluid in the clutch master cylinder, then slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose. ^ It may be necessary to limit the movement of the release fork (B) with a block of wood to remove all the air from the system. ^ Tighten the bleeder screw to 8 Nm (0.8 kgf-cm, 5.8 ft. lbs.); do not overtighten it. Refill the clutch master cylinder with fluid when done. ^ Always use only Honda DOT 3 brake fluid. 12. Install the air cleaner housing. 13. Reconnect the battery cables; positive (+) cable first, then the negative (-) cable. 14. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 15. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter your customer's radio station presets, and set the clock. 16. Perform the power window control unit reset procedure. Page 3322 Evaporative Shut Valve: Description and Operation EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve The EVAP canister vent shut valve is on the EVAP canister. The EVAP canister vent shut valve controls the venting of the EVAP canister. Page 3406 Throttle Body Disassembly/Reassembly Page 8265 Brake Lamp: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 2006 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 3790 14. If the valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 8313 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Locations Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index 13. Right Side Of Engine Page 116 Locations 72. Under Right Side of Dash Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Fuse: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 8645 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 926 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 2394 103. MAP Sensor Page 6651 Cellular Phone: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 3772 16. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 17. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 18. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Page 2695 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (Part 1) Page 8536 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 895 27. Transmission Housing (A/T) 124. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 450 Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. Page 2415 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Page 5236 to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1652 7. Replace the VTC oil control solenoid valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat the new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Fuse Block: Customer Interest Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Locations Page 5760 8. With ABS: Remove the flange bolt (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm (E). 10. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin into the ball joint pin from the inside to the outside of the vehicle. The closed end of the lock pin must be in the range shown. 11. Disconnect the lower arm from the knuckle using the special tool. Page 8307 Wire Color Codes Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 858 Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 1918 ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Technical Service Bulletin # 06-040 Date: 060808 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. Page 78 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Capacity Specifications Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications Charge quantity ................................................................................................................................... ..................................... 17.6 - 19.4 oz (500 - 550 g) Page 5328 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 7709 5. Release the hooks (A), and with seat-back loops, unzip the seat-back cover (B). It is not necessary to remove a seat-back bungee cord from the loops if the cover will be reinstalled. 6. Turn over the seat back cover (A), release the inside springs (B) and hooks (C). With side airbag: Pull the side airbag harness and the OPDS harness (passenger's seat) out through a holes (D) in the seat-back cover. 7. With side airbag: Remove the side airbag. Page 5683 17. Remove the 10 mm flange bolt (A) and nut (B) from the right side of gearbox, and remove the mounting bracket (C). 18. Lower the steering gearbox, and rotate it so the pinion shaft points upward, and remove the mounting cushion (D). 19. Remove the pinion shaft grommet (A) from the top of the valve body unit. 20. Carefully move the steering gearbox and tie-rods as an assembly toward the driver's side until the pinion shaft (A) clears the wheelwell opening (B) on the frame. Page 2613 47. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 6665 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1117 ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. Page 5826 7. Lower the lower arm, and remove the damper assembly (A). Disassembly/Inspection 1. Compress the damper spring with a commercially available strut spring compressor (A) according to the manufacturer's instructions, then remove the self-locking nut (B) while holding the damper shaft (C) with a hex wrench (D). Do not compress the spring more than necessary to remove the nut. 2. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the damper as shown in the Exploded View. 3. Reassemble all the parts, except for the upper spring seat and spring. 4. Compress the damper assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not, the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced. 5. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, and binding during these tests. Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip SOURCE: Honda Service News March 2003 TITLE: Installing an In-Tank Fuel Pump/Sending Unit? Don't Forget a New Base Gasket, Locknut, and Fuel Line Retainers APPLIES TO: See Models Listed In Illustration SERVICE TIP: Whenever you install an in-tank fuel pump/sending unit into a plastic fuel tank, the S/M tells you to install a new base gasket. But did you know you also need to replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers as well? Make a note in the Fuel Supply System subsection of the appropriate S/Ms to also replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers. Then follow this handy chart to order the appropriate parts. Install the new gasket on the fuel tank side, not on the fuel pump/sending unit side; this ensures that the gasket doesn't get pinched or rolled. If you don't install the fuel pump/sending unit correctly, the MIL could come on with an EVAP control system leakage DTC set. The gasket and the locknut are currently available in Honda parts stock under separate part numbers. But soon, they'll be packaged under a single part number. The fuel sending unit, gasket, and locknut will also be packaged together under a single part number. The gasket and the locknut will then be discontinued as separate part numbers. Locations Impact Sensor: Locations SRS Component Location Index Page 4152 Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair ATF Temperature Sensor Test/Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Disconnect the shift solenoid harness connector. 5. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 6. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 7. Remove the bolt (A), and remove the shift solenoid harness connector (B). 8. Measure ATF temperature sensor resistance between the No. 6 and No. 7 terminals of the shift solenoid harness connector. Page 8335 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 8153 31. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminals No.2 and No.4 individually, Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 1. Also replace the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. NO - Go to step 32. 32. Disconnect each of the components or connectors below, one at a time, and check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. PGM-FI main relay 2 - ECM/PCM connector A (31P) - Each injector 2P connector - Idle air control (IAC) valve 3P connector - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor B 3P connector - Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor 3P connector Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 33. NO - Replace the component that made the short to body ground go away when disconnected. If the item is the ECM/PCM, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Also replace the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. 33. Disconnect the connectors of these components. - PGM-FI main relay 2 - ECM/PCM connector A (31P) - Injectors - Idle air control (IAC) valve - Camshaft position (CMP) sensor B - Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor Page 7046 ^ If the run channel is not pinched, continue with normal troubleshooting. Page 2934 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 3581 24. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 25. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. 26. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 27. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 28. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 29. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 30. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 6824 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3178 Catalytic Converter: Description and Operation Catalytic Converter System Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) The TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen (N2), and water vapor. Page 8024 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 6349 NOTE: For color information, refer to PIB A05-0005, Child Seat Anchor Buttons. Click PARTS, then click PARTS LIBRARY, then click Parts Bulletins. Select Child Seat Anchor Buttons from the list. (Each part contains fabric washers, button posts, and back portions.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: 82123-SDA-305ZA Defect Code: 07801 Symptom Code: 03220 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the rear seat-back cover just enough to allow access to the opening where the button will be attached: ^ Refer to Section 20, Rear Seat-back Cover Replacement, in the appropriate service manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, and select the appropriate Rear Seat-back Cover Replacement procedure from the list. 2. Select the appropriate button from the Child Seat Anchor Service Set. 3. Attach the button to the rear seat-back cover: ^ Place a fabric washer over the button post. ^ Insert the post through the opening in the cover. ^ Snap the back portion onto the post. Page 2684 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 1755 6. Oil Pressure Switch Locations Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 19. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Front Seat Cover Seat Cover: Service and Repair Front Seat Cover Front Seat Cover Replacement For some models: SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before performing repairs or service. NOTE: - Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers. - On the passenger's seat with side airbag, do not touch the OPDS sensor in the seat-back pad, and keep it away from oil. Oil can corrode the sensor causing it to fail. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. Seat-back Cover 1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the armrest. - '03 model - '04-05 models 3. With side airbag: From under the seat cushion, detach the side airbag connector clip (A), and from under the passenger's seat cushion, then detach the OPDS unit connector clip (B). Release the hook springs (C), pull the seat cushion cover (D) back, then remove the harness bands (E). 4. Fold the seat-back forward. Specifications Axle Nut: Specifications Front Axle Nut ...................................................................................................................................... ................................................. 245 nm (181 lb. ft.) Rear Axle Nut ...................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 181 nm (134 lb. ft.) Page 7361 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Page 4629 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 7158 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle Idle Speed: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 3856 Mainshaft Sensor: Service and Repair Mainshaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the mainshaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the mainshaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the mainshaft speed sensor, and install the mainshaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Page 5390 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 7. Left Side Of Engine Compartment 42. Under Left Side Of Dash Wheel Bearings - Humming Or Growling Wheel Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins Wheel Bearings - Humming Or Growling SOURCE: Honda Service News November 2003 TITLE: Humming or Growling? Check the Wheel Bearings APPLIES TO: 1998-04 Accord, 2001-04 CR-V, 2003 Element, 1999-04 Odyssey SERVICE TIP: A bad front wheel bearing(s) can make a humming or growling that's easily mistaken for a noisy bearing or gear in the A/T. Before you order a reman A/T, test-drive the vehicle to make sure the A/T is really the problem. Listen carefully as you accelerate and decelerate during your test-drive. Shift into neutral. Varying throttle position and shifting into neutral changes the load on the A/T bearings and gears. If the A/T has a bad bearing or gear, the change in load will affect its noise level. If that's what you find, then go ahead and order a reman A/T. If the noise level isn't affected by changes in throttle position or shifting into neutral, then the culprit could be a bad front wheel bearing(s). Since the wheel bearings aren't mounted on shafts being spread apart by gears, they're not affected by changes in load. Also, since Honda uses angular contact wheel bearings, you won't normally hear a change in noise level when you swerve the vehicle from side to side. Hook up a STEELMAN® ChassisEAR (T/N JSP SM06600) to the front knuckles, and test-drive the vehicle again. Refer to S/B 00-063, STEELMAN ChassisEAR Diagnostic Tool, for more info. If you hear humming or growling from one or affected wheel bearing(s), and then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the noise is gone. If you don't hear any noise from the front wheel bearings, the problem could be from tire noise or vibration. Swap the front wheels and tires with a known-good vehicle. Testdrive the vehicle, and check if the noise or vibration goes away. STEELMAN(R) and ChassisEAR (R) are registered trademarks of J.S. Products, Inc. Page 6583 Page 188 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 1422 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 2018 Disclaimer Page 5340 Diagram 155 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 5103 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 1819 4. Remove the auto-tensioner. Installation 1. Install the auto-tensioner. 2. Remove the pin from the auto-tensioner. 3. Remove old liquid gasket from the chain case cover mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes. 4. Clean and dry the chain case cover mating surfaces. Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 6816 Wire Color Codes Page 252 Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the ECM/PCM How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a digital multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and probe the terminals (B) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 6208 115. Airbag First And Second Inflators, Front Passenger's Page 8310 CMP Pulse Plate Replacement Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Replacement CMP Pulse Plate A Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate A. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate A in the reverse order of removal. CMP Pulse Plate B Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. Page 1576 7. Replace the VTC oil control solenoid valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat the new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Balancer Shaft Buzz Or Rattle Is Normal Balance Shaft: Technical Service Bulletins Balancer Shaft Buzz Or Rattle Is Normal SOURCE: Honda Service News June 2004 TITLE: Balancer Shaft Buzz or Rattle Is Normal APPLIES TO: A/T-equipped 2003-04 Accord L4s, 2002-04 CR-Vs, and 2003-04 Elements. SERVICE TIP: Have customers complained of a buzz or rattle when the vehicle is sitting in Park or Neutral and the engine is winding down from 3,000 to 2,000 rpm? What they're hearing is a harmonic resonation coming from the oil pump and balancer shaft assemblies, which is a normal characteristic of the vehicle. Don't bother replacing engine components; it won't change or reduce this condition. Page 721 14. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine. 15. Check the PSPSW in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to OFF? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 17. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector. 18. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 19. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 20. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 to body ground with a jumper wire. 21. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal E16. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and ECM/PCM (E16). Page 8378 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 3896 Countershaft Sensor: Service and Repair Countershaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the countershaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the countershaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the countershaft speed sensor, and install the countershaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Windshield - Procedure To Check For Cracks Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Windshield - Procedure To Check For Cracks SOURCE: Honda Service News April 2004 TITLE: What Caused That Windshield Crack? APPLIES TO: 2003-04 Element SERVICE TIP: Need to know what caused a crack windshield in a 2003-04 Element (or any other vehicle)? Follow these steps to find out: 1. Look for an external chip in the windshield crack. - If you see a chip, a flying object caused the crack. - If you don't see a chip, then run the tip of a pin or a ball point pen along the length of the crack. If the pin or pen stops or skips in a crater, a flying object caused the crack. If the pin or pen glides smoothly along the entire length, then internal stresses or a deformed windshield flange could be the cause. Go to step 2. 2. Remove the windshield and all the sealer (see page 20-37 of the 2003-04 Element S/M). (You can also find this info in ISIS under SEARCH BY VEHICLE. Use the keyword Windshield, and select Windshield Replacement from the list.) 3. Carefully place the new windshield on the windshield flange. 4. Insert a feeler gauge between the flange and the windshield, and run it along the entire length of the windshield. - If the gauge hangs up, remove the windshield, and check the flange for deformation. Refer to S/B 03-028, 2003 Element: Windshield Is Cracked at the Lower Corners, for windshield flange repair info. - If the feeler gauge doesn't hang up, the install the new windshield (see page 20-37 of the S/M or go into ISIS). Page 6681 P/N 08A31-0F1-000, H/C 7512999 Music Link Interface Unit: P/N 08-8-1H1-10101, H/C 8582603 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. FLAT RATE TIMES Failed Part: P/N 08~8-1H1-10031 H/C 8387052 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 01201 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. Disclaimer General Information Music Link iPod Information Resources ^ Online at http//musiclink.honda.com/Tech Faq.html ^ Music Link Information Sheet (Honda ServiceNews, March 2006) ^ Music Link Frequently Asked Questions (Honda ServiceNews, March 2006) ^ Quick Reference Guide (supplied in Music Link kit) ^ User's Guide and Quick Reference Guide are available online: http://musiclink.honda.com/Down_Ref.html ^ General information: www.apple.com, then select support. ^ iPod firmware (unit software) version information: www.apple.com, then select Support. ^ To find out what (unit software) is loaded on the iPod: - Go to the Main Menu. Page 6714 ^ For warranty repairs, go to the IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE procedure. ^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call. ^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM). IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE Service Technician: NOTE: ^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured audio, navigation, or RES unit. Do not call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. ^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the Reference Number only when there is a preexisting Tech Line contact. 1. With your completed Audio/Navigation/RES Worksheet, go to an iN workstation. 2. From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE, then click on AUDIO, then select Warranty Audio Order. 3. Select the model, year, and keyword (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES) for the vehicle you are working on, then click on Search. 4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the problem, go to step 5. Page 6350 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 as needed for additional buttons. 5. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. Disclaimer Page 4165 O-rings. 2. Install shift solenoid valve A by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 3. Install shift solenoid valve E by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 4. Install shift solenoid valve B by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure the mounting bracket contacts the bracket on shift solenoid valve E. 5. Install the shift solenoid valve C by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. Page 8473 Interior Lighting Module: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 1654 7. Replace the VTC oil control solenoid valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat the new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 8332 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 8032 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 8019 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 7756 Power Mirror Switch: Testing and Inspection Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector from the power mirror switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the switch. Page 6864 How to Identify Connector Terminals CMP Pulse Plate Replacement Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Replacement CMP Pulse Plate A Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate A. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate A in the reverse order of removal. CMP Pulse Plate B Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. Page 787 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 5376 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5582 NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 995 6. Reconnect the 14P connector to the switch, and perform the following input tests. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch. NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure. Page 645 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 4533 Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair ATF Temperature Sensor Test/Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Disconnect the shift solenoid harness connector. 5. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 6. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 7. Remove the bolt (A), and remove the shift solenoid harness connector (B). 8. Measure ATF temperature sensor resistance between the No. 6 and No. 7 terminals of the shift solenoid harness connector. Page 904 Mainshaft Sensor: Service and Repair Mainshaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the mainshaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the mainshaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the mainshaft speed sensor, and install the mainshaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Page 6186 Page 3151 13. Right Side Of Engine Specifications Flex Plate: Specifications Flex Plate Install the drive plate and washer on the engine crankshaft, and tighten the eight bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or more steps. Page 1000 Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Remove the switch panel. 3. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the front passenger's power window switch (B). 4. Remove the two screws and the passenger's power window switch. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 2750 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5112 Diagram 155 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 4737 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 4053 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 4701 Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair ABS Modulator-Control Unit Removal and Installation NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation. ^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or equivalent material. Removal 1. Push in the locking tab (A) and pull up the lock (B) of the ABS control unit 47P connector (C), and the connector disconnects itself. 2. Disconnect the six brake lines. 3. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit/bracket (D/E) from the body. 4. Remove the two 6 mm shoulder bolts and 6 mm bolt from the bracket, then remove the ABS modulator-control unit from the bracket. Installation 1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit on the bracket, then tighten the two 6 mm shoulder bolts and 6 mm bolt. 2. Install the ABS modulator-control unit bracket on the body. 3. Align the connecting surface of the ABS control unit 47P connector. Page 2711 Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. Service and Repair Rear Door Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Rear Door Weatherstrip Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the door. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. Detach the clips (A, B), release the double-sided adhesive tape (C), then remove the door weatherstrip (D). 2. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Scrape off the remaining double-sided adhesive tape from the weatherstrip and rear door, and clean the weatherstrip and rear door with alcohol. Attach new double-sided adhesive tape (3M 4213, or equivalent) to the weatherstrip. - Make sure the weatherstrip is installed in the holder (E) securely. - Check for water leaks. - Test-drive and check for wind noise. Page 1498 Wheel Bearing: Testing and Inspection End Play Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts. 3. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. Front/rear: Standard: 0 - 0.05 mm (0 - 0.002 inch) 4. Measure the bearing end play moving the brake disc inward or outward. 5. If the bearing end play measurement is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing. Page 4446 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 4109 12. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) to face the tab (C) on the holder opposite the opening (D) in the shift cable bracket (E). Align the holder with the opening in the bracket, then slide the holder into the bracket. Rotate the holder a quarter turn to secure the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 13. Install the shift cable end (A) in the shift cable end holder (B). Keep the shift cable end and end holder free of grease. 14. Install the new shift cable lock (A) to secure the shift cable end and shift cable end holder, then push the lock tab (B) up until it stops to lock joint. 15. Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) pin that was installed to hold the shift lever. Page 5622 Power Steering Fluid: Service and Repair Replacement Check the reservoir (A) at regular intervals, and add the recommended fluid as necessary. Always use Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather. SYSTEM CAPACITY: 0.83 L (0.87 US. qt) at disassembly RESERVOIR CAPACITY: 0.27 L (0.28 US. qt) 1. Raise the reservoir, then disconnect the return hose (A) to drain the reservoir. Take care not to spill the fluid on the body and parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once. 2. Connect a hose (B) of suitable diameter to the disconnected return hose, and put the hose end in a suitable container. 3. Start the engine, let it run at idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times. When fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the engine. Discard the fluid. 4. Reinstall the return hose on the reservoir. 5. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line (C). 6. Start the engine and run it at fast idle, then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from the system. 7. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary. Do not fill the reservoir beyond the upper level line. Diagrams Charging System Component Location Index Page 2628 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Diagrams 140. Keyless Receiver Unit Page 4054 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 1433 Fuse Block: Connector Views 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Service and Repair Trunk / Liftgate Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Hatch Weatherstrip Replacement 1. Remove the cargo floor lid and trim panel. 2. Have an assistant help you, remove the tailgate support cables from both sides, and hold the tailgate. Take care not to damage the exterior parts. 3. Remove the hatch weatherstrip (A) by pulling out on it. 4. Locate the painted alignment mark (B) on the hatch weatherstrip. Align the painted mark with the alignment tab in the center of the hatch opening, and install the hatch weatherstrip all the way around in the direction shown. Make sure there are no wrinkles in the weatherstrip. 5. Reinstall the removed parts in reverse order of removal. 6. Check for water leaks. Page 6101 Disclaimer Page 3331 9. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 10. Check that the needle of the fuel gauge indicates "F". - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F", replace the gauge. - If the pointer points to "F", the fuel gauge is OK; is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit: Go to step 12. NOTE: The needle of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is OFF, regardless of the fuel level. 11. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank. 12. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals of the fuel gauge sending unit with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the shown readings, replace the sending unit. NOTE: Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge to indicate the correct fuel level. Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Alarm Module: Customer Interest Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) Oxygen Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) 03-027 May 6, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Accord L4 2-door- From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A020275 2003 Accord L4 4-door- From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A071758 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C073601 2003 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1...3L006131 2003 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...3L000001 thru 5J6YH2...3L014546 MIL Comes On With DTC P2A00 (P2900) SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P2A00 (P2900)* [Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range Performance Problem]. * If you use the PGM Tester to retrieve codes, you may see DTC P2900; it's the same as DTC P2A00. PROBABLE CAUSE The air fuel ratio sensor is faulty. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for DTC P2A00 (P2900). If P2A00 (P2900) is present, replace the air fuel ratio sensor, and clear the DTC. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 36531-RAA-A01 H/C 7136187 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C99 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. PARTS INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or the PGM Tester to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector), and check for DTCs. Page 5562 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Page 940 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 421 Power Mirror Switch: Service and Repair Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector from the power mirror switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the switch. Page 2493 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Specifications Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve clearance (cold) Intake ................................................................................................................................................... ...................... 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Exhaust ............................................................... ....................................................................................................... 0.28 - 0.32 mm (0.011 - 0.013 inch) Page 6881 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 118 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 6798 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1113 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. Page 6251 Impact Sensor: Service Precautions SRS Unit, Front Impact Sensors, and Side Impact Sensors - Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side impact sensors whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. - During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. - After a collision in which any airbags or seat belt tensioners were deployed, replace the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and other deployed components. After a collision in which a side airbag was deployed, replace the side impact sensor on the deployed side and the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags or the side airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and the side impact sensors. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors. - Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side impact sensors. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors from the SRS unit. - Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors are installed securely, with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft) - Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors, and keep them away from dust. - Store the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors in a cool (less than 104 °F / 40 °C) and dry (less than 80 % relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 5832 2. Remove the flange bolt (A) from the bottom of the damper. 3. Remove the canister mounting bolts, and loosen the EVAP canister (B) mounting (only left side). 4. Remove the flange nuts (A) from the top of the damper in the cargo area. 5. Remove the damper assembly (A) from the body. Disassembly/Inspection Page 3980 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 2546 Air Filter Element: Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 8334 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 5831 Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Rear Suspension Damper/Spring Replacement Removal 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the rear wheels. Page 1016 36. In Steering Column Cover Page 6892 217. Trailer Connector (Honda Accessory) Page 2978 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 8389 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. A/T - Fixing Banjo Bolt Leaks Fluid Line/Hose: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fixing Banjo Bolt Leaks SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Fixing A/T Banjo Bolt Leaks APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Got ATF leaking from any of the A/T banjo bolts? The first thing you need to do is replace the sealing washers. Next, start threading the banjo and line bracket bolts in their holes. Finally, torque the banjo bolt to 31 Nm (22 lb-ft) and the line bracket bolt to 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft.). NOTE: The banjo bolt torque spec we're recommending is slightly higher than what's listed in the S/M. This is intentional. If you torque just the banjo bolt, you won't really fix the leak. ATF leaks at the banjo bolt stem from the line bracket getting tightened before the banjo bolt. This can misalign the banjo joint, causing the banjo bolt sealing washers not to contact their mating surfaces evenly. Once the sealing washers have been used, you must replace them. A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination Fluid - CVT: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Page 7236 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Latch Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hatch latch switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the hatch latch switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the hatch open. - There should be no continuity with the hatch closed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Diagrams 44. EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Page 1560 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5848 Wheel Bearing: Testing and Inspection End Play Inspection 1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts. 3. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. Front/rear: Standard: 0 - 0.05 mm (0 - 0.002 inch) 4. Measure the bearing end play moving the brake disc inward or outward. 5. If the bearing end play measurement is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing. Page 3932 Page 12 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. Page 7363 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 3. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 4. Remove the ATF pipe (B), ATF joint pipes (C), O-rings (D), and gasket (E). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect it securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 7. Left Side Of Engine Compartment 42. Under Left Side Of Dash Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 7. Left Side Of Engine Compartment 42. Under Left Side Of Dash Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 Oil Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Replace VTEC Oil Pressure Switch for DTC P2646, P2647 APPLIES TO: 03-05 Accord 4-cylinder 03-05 Element 02-05 CR-V SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop with either of these DTCs? - DTC P2646 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit low voltage) - DTC P2647 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit high voltage) Replacing the VTEC oil pressure switch usually fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then press on with normal troubleshooting. Page 6223 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Door, Roof And Seat Page 5198 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 4763 Page 2230 DTC P0979 thru P1193 A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Remove the cover (A), then remove the set/resume/ cancel switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. - If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control actuator input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit. - If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch. Page 3093 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Page 2041 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5855 7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B). 8. Install the splash guard (c), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque. 9. Press a wheel bearing (A) onto the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. Service and Repair Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair Lift and Support Points NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as suspension or the fuel tank from the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands. When substantial weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change and cause the vehicle to tip forward on the hoist. Frame Hoist 1. Position the hoist lift blocks (A), or safety stands, under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C). 2. Raise the hoist a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 3. Raise the hoist to full height, and inspect the lift points for solid contact with the lift blocks. Safety Stands To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a frame hoist. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only by a jack. Floor Jack 1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the rear of the vehicle, put the gearshift lever in reverse for manual transmission, or in [P] (park) for automatic transmission. 2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted. 3. Position the floor jack under the front jacking bracket (A) or rear jacking bracket (B), center the jacking bracket in the jack lift platform (C), and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it. 4. Position the safety stands under the support points and adjust them so the vehicle is level. Locations Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index 29. Rear Of Engine Compartment Page 4611 Mainshaft Sensor: Service and Repair Mainshaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the mainshaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the mainshaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the mainshaft speed sensor, and install the mainshaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Page 6876 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Service and Repair Overdrive Switch: Service and Repair O/D Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 2483 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor (A). 2. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 5022 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Testing and Inspection Brake Master Cylinder: Testing and Inspection Inspection NOTE: ^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles. ^ Do not try to disassemble the master cylinder assembly. Replace the master cylinder assembly with a new part if necessary. ^ Do not allow dirt or foreign matter to contaminate the brake fluid. Page 2656 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 7976 Page 6322 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Description and Operation Ignition Timing: Description and Operation Ignition Timing Control The ECM/PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature. Page 1470 34. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and each item. Also replace the No, 6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. NO - Replace PGM-FI main relay 1. Also replace the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse. 35. Inspect the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 48. NO - Go to step 36. 36. Remove the blown No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box. 37. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 38. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 39. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E9 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 40. NO - Replace the No.17 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse, and update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components Air-bags The SRS is a safety device which, when used with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and front passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including safing sensor and impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C), the front passenger's airbag (D), seat belt tensioners (1), seat belt buckle tensioners (J), and front impact sensors (K). Since the driver's and front passenger's airbags use the same sensors, both normally inflate at the same time. However, it is possible for only one airbag to inflate. This can occur when the severity of a collision is at the margin, or threshold, that determines whether or not the airbags will deploy. In such cases, the seat belt will provide sufficient protection, and the supplemental protection offered by the airbag would be minimal. Side Airbags The side airbags (E) are in each front seat-back. They help protect the upper torso of the driver or front seat passenger during a moderate to severe side impact. Side impact sensors (F) in each door sill and in the SRS unit detect such an impact and instantly inflate the driver's or the passenger's side airbag. Only one side airbag will deploy during a side impact. If the impact is on the passenger's side, the passenger's side airbag will deploy even if there is no passenger. Seat Belt and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners The seat belt and seat belt buckle tensioners are linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioners instantly retract the belt and buckle firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. OPDS The side airbag system also includes an occupant position detection system (OPDS). This system consists of sensors (G) and a OPDS unit (H) in the front passenger's seat-back. The OPDS unit sends occupant height and position data to the SRS unit. If the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger is of small stature (for example, a child) and the front passenger is leaning into the side airbag deployment path, the SRS unit will automatically disable the passenger's side airbag. The SRS unit will also disable the airbag when the OPDS detects certain objects on the seat. When the side airbag is disabled, the side airbag cutoff indicator on the instrument panel alerts the driver that the passenger's side airbag will not deploy in a side impact. When the object is removed, or the passenger sits upright, the side airbag cutoff indicator will go off after a few seconds, alerting the driver that the passenger's side airbag will deploy in a side impact. Page 957 Page 3056 22. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. lithe symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G301. Page 3242 ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Page 2459 109. VSS (M/T) Locations Cabin Air Filter: Locations Located behind glove box, in the blower unit. Diagram Information and Instructions Auxiliary Power Outlet: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 8482 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 903 (A/T) Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: Customer Interest Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Service and Repair Cabin Ventilation Duct: Service and Repair Rear Air Outlet Replacement 1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Detach the hooks (A), then remove the rear air outlet (B). Take care not to scratch the body. 3. Install the air outlet by pushing on the hook portions until the hooks snap into place. Testing and Inspection Air Conditioning Switch: Testing and Inspection A/C Pressure Switch Circuit Troubleshooting NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if any of these items are working properly with the A/C switch on; condenser fan, radiator fan and A/C compressor, or the heater does not work. Refer to the symptom troubleshooting index. See: Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Turn the blower switch on, and check for blower motor operation. Does the blower motor run correctly on all speeds? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Troubleshoot the blower motor circuit. 3. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 2P connector and body ground. Is there 5V or more? YES - Go to step6. NO - Go to step 12. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C pressure switch. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Go to step 14. 8. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. 9. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector. 10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 385 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 1852 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1421 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 1223 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 659 96. ELD Unit Page 3146 81. Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) Page 374 5. Push down and hold the power window switch. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 7. Release the powerwindow switch. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps. 8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep holding the switch for 1 second. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2. SYMPTOM 2 The windows are slow to open. PROBABLE CAUSE The run channel is damaged or dirty. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting. 1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle: ^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required. ^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window regulator speed. ^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator. ^ If the speed is faster without the glass, go to step 2. NOTE: When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the full up position because damage can occur to the regulator. 2. Inspect the visible portion of the run channel for damage. Page 1148 Spark Plug: Application and ID Spark Plug Type NGK ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. IZFR6K-11 DENSO ................................................................................................................................................ ....................................................... SKJ20DR-M11 Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 13 ft lb (18 Nm) Gap ..................................................................... ................................................................................................................ 0.039-0.043 inch (1.0-1.1 mm) Page 4983 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Locations Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Component Location Index Page 7454 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 88-91 Prelude With Dealer-Installed Security System 1988-91 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Page 8159 63. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 64. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 1. 64. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 65. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.1 and ECM/PCM connector terminals A2 and A3 individually. Is there continuity? YES - Replace PGM-FI main relay 1. NO - Repair open in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and the ECM/PCM (A2, A3). 66. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminals A4, A5, A8, and A9 individually. Is there more than 0.2 V? YES - Repair open in the wire(s) that had more than 0.2 V between G101 and the ECM/PCM (A4, A5, A8, A9). NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good, ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Page 8687 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 8258 Page 5430 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 4511 19. With a sponge,carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do NOT apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. - Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges. - Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. 20. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown. 21. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) around the edge of the windshield (B) between the side rubber dam (C), lower rubber dam (D), and molding (E) as shown. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner. 22. Use suction cups to hold the windshield over the opening, align it with the alignment marks made in step 16, and set it down on the adhesive. Page 8206 Door Switch: Diagrams 4. Door Switch, Driver's 5. Door Switch, Front Passenger's 38. Door Lower Switch, Left Rear Page 6225 Air Bag Control Module: Diagrams 206. OPDS Unit (EX: Side Airbag) Diagnostic Aids Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 4114 14. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and verify that the R position indicator comes on. 15. Install the shift cable to the shift lever, refer to shift cable adjustment. Page 4316 Flywheel: Testing and Inspection Flywheel Inspection 1. Inspect the ring gear teeth for wear and damage. 2. Inspect the clutch disc mating surface on the flywheel for wear, cracks, and burning. 3. Measure the flywheel (A) runout using a dial indicator (B) through at least two full turns with the engine installed. Push against the flywheel each time you turn it to take up the crankshaft thrust washer clearance. If the runout is more than the service limit, replace the flywheel and recheck the runout. Resurfacing the flywheel is not recommended. Standard (New): 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) Page 3285 1. Check the contact area (A) of the line (B) for dirt or damage, and clean it if needed. 2. Insert a new retainer (A) into the connector (B) if the retainer is damaged, or after - replacing the fuel rail. - replacing the fuel feed line. - replacing the fuel pump. - replacing the fuel filter. - replacing the fuel gauge sending unit - removing the retainer from the line. Page 7688 7. Apply the 10 x 30 mm wool felt strips around both ends of the seat frame rod (where the upper seat-back cover springs connect). 8. With side airbags: Make sure the black upper hook for the side airbag cover routes below the zig-zag spring. If it is above the spring, disassemble the airbag cover hooks, and reconnect the hooks with the black hook routing below the zig-zag spring. 9. Reinstall the seat-back cover. To prevent wrinkles, make sure you stretch the material evenly over the foam before securing the inside springs, hooks, and clips. 10. Reinstall the armrest (if applicable). If the vehicle does not have side airbags, you're finished. If the vehicle is equipped with side airbags, go to step 11. 11. With side airbags: Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 12. With side airbags: If you repaired the front passenger's seat, initialize the occupant position detection system (OPDS) unit: Page 5057 armature shaft (C). If continuity exists, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection 11. Measure the brush length. If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Starter Brush Holder Test 12. Check that there is no continuity between the (+) brush (A) and (-) brush (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Planetary Gear Inspection 13. Check the planetary gears (A) and ring gear (B). Replace them if they are worn or damaged. Overrunning Clutch Inspection Page 1643 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel Pressure ............................................................................................................................................... 330 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 - 55 psi) Page 100 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 1355 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 7056 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 87 Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 2636 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 69 Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 6920 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 7. Left Side Of Engine Compartment 42. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 7992 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 6795 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 7823 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 822 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing airbag system service. Observe the instructions described, or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. - Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. - Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. - Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks, or deformation. - Before removing any SRS parts (including disconnection of connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. - Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. - Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. - The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code and write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before disconnecting the battery cable. - Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the radio code, then enter the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock. Do the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure and the power window control unit resetting procedure. Page 2932 68. Behind Glove Box Page 2675 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6647 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 1406 Fuse Block: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4423 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 3349 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 2563 Ignition System Component Location Index Page 6314 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 5669 Page 7233 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Connector Locations 111. Middle Of Hatch 112. Left Side Of Tailgate Page 1987 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 6983 4. From under the armrest, using the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set, pry out the lid (A), and remove the screw. 5. Lower the glass fully. 6. Remove the mirror mount cover. 7. Lower the front window so you can access the inner sash trim (A). 8. Use a trim tool (B) to release the clip at the lower rear corner of the sash trim. Pry out from the edge of the sash trim until the clip releases. 9. While pressing down the front corner (A) of the sash trim, pull the top corner (B) forward until the sash trim releases. Page 2121 Page 6089 10. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the dashboard wire harness, the air mix control motor, the evaporator temperature sensor, the power transistor, the mode control motor, the blower motor, and the recirculation control motor, then remove the wire harness clips (B), the connector clips (C), the wire harness (D) the heater duct (E) and the clip (F). Disconnect the drain hose (G),then remove the mounting nuts and the blower-heater unit (H). 11. Remove the self-tapping screws and the expansion valve cover (A). With air conditioning; carefully pull out the evaporator core (B) so you don't bend the inlet and outlet pipes. Remove the self-tapping screws and the flange cover (C), then remove the grommet (D), and carefully pull out the heater core (E) so you don't bend the inlet and outlet pipes. 12. Install the heater core and the evaporator core (with A/C) in the reverse order of removal. 13. Install the heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose clamps securely. - Refill the cooling system with engine coolant. - Be sure to connect the drain hose securely. - Adjust the heater valve cable. - Make sure that there is no coolant leakage. - Make sure that there is no air leakage. - With air conditioning, refer to evaporator core replacement. Page 2481 91. CKP Sensor Page 2709 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions: - Replace the ECM/PCM or disconnect its connector. - Reset the ECM/PCM. NOTE: Erasing DTCs with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure. Procedure: 1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.,) are off. 2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 °F (90 °C). 3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes. Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Alarm Module: Customer Interest Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Page 6428 4. Clean and dry the seat belt guide, then put a piece of teflon tape on the inside. Use the teflon tape specified in this service bulletin; other brands or types of tape may eventually peel off and restrict seat belt movement. 5. Install the seat belt guide and the door panel. 6. Test the belt for proper retraction by pulling the latch plate down to the floor of the vehicle and then releasing it. The belt should retract fully in four seconds or less. Disclaimer Page 2383 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases. Page 8150 Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection MIL Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Do the gauge self-diagnostic procedure. Does the MIL indicator flash? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Substitute a known-good gauge assembly, and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK, replace the original gauge assembly. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the MIL. Does the MIL stay off? YES - Go to step 19. NO - Go to step 5. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), wait 20 seconds, and watch the MIL. Does the MIL stay on or flash more than 5 times? YES - Go to step 7. NO - The MIL circuit is OK. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and read the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS communicate with the ECM/PCM? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Go to "DLC Circuit Troubleshooting". 10. Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs in the DTCs MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs indicated? YES - Go to the DTC Troubleshooting Index. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions NO - Go to step 11. 11. Check the MIL in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Is it ON indicated? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Substitute a known-good gauge assembly, and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK, replace the original gauge assembly. 12. Check the SCS in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Is a short indicated? YES - Go to step 13. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Hatch Latch Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Service and Repair Hatch Latch Hatch Latch Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves 10 protect your hands. 1. Remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the hatch opener cable (A), cylinder rod (B), hatch latch actuator connector (C), and hatch latch switch connector (D), and detach the connector. 3. Remove the bolts, then remove the hatch latch (E). 4. Install the hatch latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly and the opener cable is connected properly. - Make sure the opener cable actuates the latch before you close the hatch. - Make sure the hatch opens properly and locks securely. Page 5367 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 1221 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 4158 11. Clean the inlet opening (A) of the ATF strainer (B) thoroughly with compressed air, then check that it is in good condition and that the inlet opening is not clogged. 12. Test the ATF strainer by pouring clean ATF through the inlet opening, and replace it if it is clogged or damaged. Valve Body Repair NOTE: This repair is only necessary if one or more of the valves in a valve body do not slide smoothly in their bores. Use this procedure to free the valves. 1. Soak a sheet of # 600 abrasive paper in ATF for about 30 minutes. 2. Carefully tap the valve body so the sticking valve drops out of its bore. It may be necessary to use a small screwdriver to pry the valve free. Be careful not to scratch the bore with the screwdriver. 3. Inspect the valve for any scuff marks. Use the ATF-soaked # 600 paper to polish off any burrs that are on the valve, then wash the valve in solvent and dry it with compressed air. 4. Roll up half a sheet of ATF-soaked # 600 paper and insert it in the valve bore of the sticking valve. Twist the paper slightly, so that it unrolls and fits the bore tightly, then polish the bore by twisting the paper as you push it in and out. NOTE: The valve body is aluminum and doesn't require much polishing to remove any burrs. 5. Remove the # 600 paper. Thoroughly wash the entire valve body in solvent, then dry it with compressed air. Page 7613 Sunroof / Moonroof Handle Assembly: Service and Repair Glass Latch Glass Latch Replacement 1. Remove the skylight. 2. To prevent damage to the skylight, place it on a work area with a protective covering. 3. Remove the nuts and shim (A), then remove the glass latch (B). 4. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Apply multipurpose grease to the handle pivot portions and latch arm moving portion as indicated by the arrows. - Check the glass latch operation. Page 5098 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 1029 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line. When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights. NOTE: The bracket counts as one weight. Page 2370 96. ELD Unit Page 5927 9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the same wires for voltage. Is there any voltage? YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the recirculation control motor. This short also may damage the heater control panel. Repair the short to power and retest before replacing the heater control panel. NO - Go to step 10. 10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Check for continuity between the following terminals of the heater control panel 30P connector and the recirculation control motor 7P connector. 30P: 7P: No. 5 No. 5 No. 6 No. 7 Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the recirculation control motor. 12. Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the recirculation control motor 7P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good recirculation control motor and retest. Did the symptom/indication go away? YES - The original recirculation control motor is faulty, replace it. NO - Substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. 13. Remove the recirculation control motor. 14. Check the recirculation control linkage and doors for smooth movement. Do the recirculation control linkage and doors move smoothly? YES - Replace the recirculation control motor. NO - Repair the recirculation control linkage or doors. Page 3401 Intake Air System - Component Location Index Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 4020 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations Page 7470 Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 120. Right Side Of Engine Compartment Page 6159 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 4027 Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair ATF Temperature Sensor Test/Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Disconnect the shift solenoid harness connector. 5. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 6. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 7. Remove the bolt (A), and remove the shift solenoid harness connector (B). 8. Measure ATF temperature sensor resistance between the No. 6 and No. 7 terminals of the shift solenoid harness connector. Locations Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 6800 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 1566 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2159 Radiator: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator with engine coolant to the top of the filler neck. 2. Attach the pressure tester (A) (commercially available) to the radiator. 3. Apply a pressure of 93 123 kPa (0.95 - 1.25 kgf/cm2, 14 - 18 psi). 4. Inspect for engine coolant leaks and a drop in pressure. 5. Remove the tester, and reinstall the radiator cap. 6. Check for engine oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the engine oil. Page 4847 199. ABS Modulator-Control Unit (EX) Page 2965 91. CKP Sensor Page 6848 Trailer Lamps: Connector Views 77. Trailer Lighting Connector 2 150. Trailer Lighting Connector 1 Page 3802 19. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 20. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 21. Remove the shift lock solenoid harness clamp from the shift lever bracket, and remove the shift lock solenoid. 22. Replace the shift lock solenoid. 23. Install the new shift lock solenoid (A) on the shift lever/bracket assembly (B) with aligning the shift lock solenoid plunger (C) with the tip of the shift lock stop (D). 24. Install the harness clamp (E) on the shift lock solenoid harness (F) at 128 - 138 mm (5.0 - 5.4 inch) (G) from the harness terminal end. 25. Install the clamp in the hole (H) of the shift lever bracket. 26. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 27. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. Page 7466 Page 3416 106. TP Sensor Page 2588 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 120. Right Side Of Engine Compartment Page 4799 13. Hold the pads on both sides firmly with your fingers, and install the new pad springs (A) on the pads. Holding the pads, set the caliper over the pads by pivoting it down slowly. NOTE: Insert the pad spring ends into the pad installation holes securely. 14. Pivot the caliper (A) down into position. Be careful not to damage the pin boots. 15. Install the flange bolt (B), and tighten it to the specified torque. 16. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive. NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke. 17. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220 Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information 98-011 February 20, 2004 Applies To: ALL Keyless Remote Transmitter Information (Supersedes 98-011, dated February 6, 2003) Updated information is shown by asterisks and a black bar. This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering, and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below. Locations Clutch Switch: Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 6319 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 1147 Ignition System Component Location Index Page 8638 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 7149 Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Service and Repair Tailgate Latch Tailgate Latch Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the tailgate. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - The left side is shown; the right side is similar. 1. Remove the tailgate lower trim panel. 2. Remove the tailgate latch (A). 1. Disconnect the tailgate opener rod (B) from the tailgate handle (C). 2. Disconnect the latch switch connector (D), and detach it. 3. Remove the screws securing the latch. 4. Remove the latch through the hole in the tailgate. Take care not to bend the tailgate opener rod. 3. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the latch switch connector is plugged in properly, and opener rod is connected securely. - Make sure the opener rod actuates the latch before you close the tailgate. - Make sure the tailgate locks and opens properly. Page 5497 134. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) 135. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 8400 Door Switch: Connector Locations 86. Left Rear Door 87. Left Rear Door Diagnostic Aids Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Service and Repair Repairs and Inspections Required After a Collision: Service and Repair SRS Component Replacement/Inspection After Deployment NOTE: Before doing any SRS repairs, use the PGM Tester or HDS SRS menu method to check for DTCs: refer to the DTC Troubleshooting Index for the less obvious deployed parts (seat belt tensioners, front impact sensors, side airbag sensors, etc.) After a collision where the seat belt tensioners deployed, replace these items: - Seat belt tensioners - Seat belt buckle tensioners - SRS unit - Front impact sensors After a collision where the front airbag(s) deployed,replace these items: - SRS unit - Deployed airbag(s) - Seat belt tensioners - Seat belt buckle tensioners - Front impact sensors After a collision where the side airbag(s) deployed,replace these items: - SRS unit - Deployed side airbag(s) - Side impact sensor(s) for the side(s) that deployed During the repair process, inspect these areas: - Inspect all the SRS wire harnesses. Replace, don't repair, any damaged harnesses. - Inspect the cable reel for heat damage. If there is any damage, replace the cable reel. After the vehicle is completely repaired, turn the ignition switch ON. If the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off, the SRS airbag system is OK. If the indicator does not function properly, use the PGM Tester or HDS SRS Menu Method to read the DTC(s). Locations Oil Pressure Sender: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 1399 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 3573 (A/T) Page 3371 142. PGM-FI Main Relays 1 & 2 Page 7898 5. Push down and hold the power window switch. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 7. Release the powerwindow switch. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps. 8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep holding the switch for 1 second. NOTE: Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2. SYMPTOM 2 The windows are slow to open. PROBABLE CAUSE The run channel is damaged or dirty. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting. 1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle: ^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required. ^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window regulator speed. ^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator. ^ If the speed is faster without the glass, go to step 2. NOTE: When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the full up position because damage can occur to the regulator. 2. Inspect the visible portion of the run channel for damage. A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination Fluid - CVT: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Page 6911 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 5751 6. Apply grease to the ball joint remover on the areas shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads. 7. Loosen the pressure bolt, and install the ball joint remover as shown. Insert the jaws carefully, making sure not to damage the the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing by turning the adjusting bolt. NOTE: Fasten the safety chain securely to a suspension arm or the subframe. Do not fasten it to a brake line or a wire harness. 8. After adjusting the adjusting bolt, make sure the head of the adjusting bolt is in the position shown to allow the jaw to pivot. 9. Using a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint pin pops loose from the ball joint connecting hole. If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint pin. NOTE: Do not use pneumatic or electric tools on the pressure bolt. 10. Remove the ball joint remover, then remove the hex nut or the ball joint thread protector from the end of the ball joint pin, and pull the ball joint out of the ball joint connecting hole. Inspect the ball joint boot, and replace it if damaged. Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Page 7737 12. Remove and discard the three nuts. Remove and retain the washers from the inboard front link and the seat track. Remove and discard the three bushings. Remove and discard the spacers between the seat and the seat track. 13. Add the three new spacers to the rear mounting stud. 14. Install the three new bushings and the inboard front link. *15. Use brake cleaner to remove grease from any threads before installing nuts.* Install the original washers and new nuts. Torque the nuts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 16. Reinstall the seat belt buckle. Torque the center anchor bolt to 32 N.m (24 lb-ft). 17. Reinstall the center cover and the recline cover. 18. Reinstall the height knob and the recline handle. 19. Reinstall the driver's seat: ^ Torque the mounting bolts to 34 N.m (25 lb-ft). ^ Make sure each connector is properly plugged in. Page 8083 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the driver's dashboard side lid (six clips). 2. Tilt the steering column down. Remove the driver's dashboard middle panel (one screw, nine clips). 3. Place a clean shop towel under the gauge assembly to keep from scratching the steering column or dashboard. 4. Remove the four mounting screws from the gauge assembly. 5. Unplug the gauge assembly 30P and 16P connectors. Remove the gauge assembly. 6. Plug the connectors into the new gauge assembly, and install it in the dashboard. Page 1231 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 7044 ^ If the run channel is visibly damaged, replace it, then recheck the window speed. ^ If the run channel looks OK, go to step 3. 3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through its range of travel and check for excessive resistance: ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 4. If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 5. 4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed. ^ If the run channel is not pinched, go to step 5. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. SYMPTOM 3 During operation, the window squeaks, creaks, clunks, or clicks. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Compare the window's noise level to another like vehicle: ^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal characteristic. ^ If the noise is different from the other vehicle, go to step 2. Page 5809 8. Clean off any grease contamination from the ball joint tapered section and threads, then connect the tie-rod end to the steering arm. Tighten the nut (A) to the specified torque. Install the cotter pin (B) after tightening, and bend its end as shown. 9. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 6929 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 3374 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 925 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 7566 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 6686 Make sure the "Compilations" setting is switched off in the settings menu on the customer's iPod: - Go to the Main Menu. - Select Settings. - See Compilation. Is the "Compilations" setting switched off? Yes - There is a TTS software program error. Tell the customer to rerun the TTS software. No - Change the "Compilations" setting on the customer's iPod to off. Song/Artist is not categorized in the correct grouping when using Disc 1-4 search functions. Remind the customer that the TTS software must be run after any songs are changed on the iPod, and advise them to run the TTS software and retest the iPod search functions. Explain to the customer that once the TTS software has run: ^ If the iPod functions properly, there was an intermittent TTS software program error. ^ If the iPod does not function properly, direct the customer to contact Customer Service for assistance with TTS software loading problems. CUSTOMER INFORMATION NEEDED BEFORE CALLING HONDA'S CUSTOMER SERVICE DEPARTMENT Print this page, and give it to the customer if they are experiencing a ITS software-related issue. Direct them to answer the questions, then contact American Honda's Automobile Customer Service Department at (800) 999-1009. Customer Information Before calling customer service, go to http//musiclink.honda.com/Tech_Faq.html and view the technical FAQs and troubleshooting. Also, go to www.apple.com, select support, and view the technical FAQs and troubleshooting. Please have the following information ready when contacting customer service: ^ What is the main issue? ^ What type of iPod do you have? Refer to www.apple.com. ^ What version iPod firmware (unit software) is loaded? To find out what firmware (unit software) is loaded on the iPod: - Go to the Main Menu. - Select Settings. - Select About. ^ What version iTunes are you using on your home computer? ^ When you connect your iPod to the vehicle's Music Link connector, is the check mark displayed on your iPod display screen? ^ What type of computer do you have (Mac or PC)? ^ What operating system are you using? ^ Have you loaded the ITS software on your home computer? ^ Do you run the ITS software every time you connect your iPod to your home computer? Page 4550 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid B and C in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B, C and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance between the solenoid valve B terminals No. 1 and No. 2, and measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance between the solenoid valve C terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance of either of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. Page 7486 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Passport (Except 1995-1/2) 1994-95 Passport (except 19951A) with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be accepted. Page 5237 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Page 1608 12. With the specified air pressure applied, move the intake primary rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. The primary rocker arm and secondary rocker arm (B) should move together. If the intake secondary rocker arm does not move, remove the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and check that the pistons in the primary and secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and test. 13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 for the remaining cylinders. Be sure to set the cylinder's piston at TDC before beginning work. 14. Remove the special tools. 15. Tighten the camshaft holder mounting bolts to 22 Nm (2.2 kgf-m, 16 ft. lbs.). 16. Tighten the sealing bolt to 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 ft. lbs.). 17. Install the cylinder head cover. Page 3553 134. A/T Reverse Relay Page 1328 Refrigerant Oil: Service and Repair A/C Refrigerant Oil Replacement Recommended PAG oil: DENSO ND-OIL 8: - P/N 38897-PR7-A01AH: 120 ml (4 fl.oz) - P/N 38899-PR7-A01: 40 ml (1 1/3 fl.oz) Page 2055 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Testing and Inspection Radiator Fan Circuit Troubleshooting Troubleshooting NOTE: Before beginning this troubleshooting procedure, refer to the symptom troubleshooting index. 1. Check the No. 4 (20A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 14 (10A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s) and recheck. 2. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the radiator fan relay. 3. Measure the voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay boxes 4. Connect radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire. Does the radiator fan run? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 6. Page 3460 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B CMP sensor B detects the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. Page 5109 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 3120 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 2430 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch The PSP switch signals the ECM/PCM when the power steering load is high. Page 5943 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 2793 103. MAP Sensor Interior - Seat Belts Slow to Retract Seat Belt: Customer Interest Interior - Seat Belts Slow to Retract 03-062 September 16, 2003 Applies To: ALL Seat Belt Slow to Retract (Replaces 91-030, dated January 22, 1996) SYMPTOM The seat belt will not retract all the way, or retracts slowly. PROBABLE CAUSE Dirt on the seat belt webbing and guide. CORRECTIVE ACTION Clean the seat belts and guides with a mild soap and water solution, or isopropyl alcohol. This applies only to three-point active and passive seat belt systems, not to motorized systems. REQUIRED MATERIALS Required only for three-point passive seat belts. Teflon Tape (ten pieces per package): P/N 81496-SH3-505, H/C 4008041 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION This repair is covered by the Lifetime Seat Belt Limited Warranty. Failed Part: P/N 818AD-SM1-A05ZB H/C 3478047 Defect Code: L11 Contention Code: B99 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE Three-Point Active Seat Belts 1. Use either isopropyl alcohol, or prepare a solution of 5 ounces of mild dishwashing liquid in a gallon of warm water. NOTICE Do not use strong cleaning solutions, upholstery cleaners or commercial automotive interior cleaners. They can affect the durability of the webbing. Locations Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 19. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 3127 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 5741 11. Remove the flange bolts, then remove the lower arm. NOTE: Use new flange bolts during reassembly. 12. Mark the lower arm at the location of the arrow on the compliance bushing. Page 1267 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 7137 4. Disconnect the hatch opener cable (A) from the handle (B). Take care not to kink the cable. 5. Install the hatch handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the hatch opener cable is connected securely. - Make sure the hatch opens properly. Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Page 213 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 352 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Update the PCM How to Update the PCM NOTE: ^ To ensure the latest program is installed, update a PCM whenever the PCM is substituted or replaced. You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. ^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. To prevent PCM damage, do not operate any electrical system; audio system, brakes, air conditioning, power windows, moonroof, and door locks, during the update. ^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the DLC. This will prevent PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda interface module (HIM) to the DLC located under the left end of the dash. 3. Update the PCM according to the procedures described on the HIM label. If the software in the PCM is the latest, replace the PCM. Page 6025 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 551 Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Switch Test NOTE: For more key-in beeper information, refer to the circuit diagram and input test. When the ignition key is in the ignition switch, the key-in beeper circuit of the multiplex control unit senses ground through the closed ignition key switch. When you open the driver's door, the beeper circuit senses ground through the closed door switch. When both switches are closed (driver's door and ignition), the key-in beeper in the gauge assembly is activated. 1. Remove the steering column upper and lower covers. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be continuity with the key in the ignition switch. - There should be no continuity with the key removed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the steering lock assembly. Page 5063 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8438 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 6928 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 5955 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Diagram Information and Instructions Cigarette Lighter: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1430 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 2967 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the CKP sensor (A). 2. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) Oxygen Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) 03-027 May 6, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Accord L4 2-door- From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A020275 2003 Accord L4 4-door- From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A071758 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C073601 2003 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1...3L006131 2003 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...3L000001 thru 5J6YH2...3L014546 MIL Comes On With DTC P2A00 (P2900) SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P2A00 (P2900)* [Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range Performance Problem]. * If you use the PGM Tester to retrieve codes, you may see DTC P2900; it's the same as DTC P2A00. PROBABLE CAUSE The air fuel ratio sensor is faulty. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for DTC P2A00 (P2900). If P2A00 (P2900) is present, replace the air fuel ratio sensor, and clear the DTC. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 36531-RAA-A01 H/C 7136187 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C99 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. PARTS INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or the PGM Tester to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector), and check for DTCs. Page 3643 Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair ATF Temperature Sensor Test/Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Disconnect the shift solenoid harness connector. 5. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 6. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 7. Remove the bolt (A), and remove the shift solenoid harness connector (B). 8. Measure ATF temperature sensor resistance between the No. 6 and No. 7 terminals of the shift solenoid harness connector. Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 Oil Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Replace VTEC Oil Pressure Switch for DTC P2646, P2647 APPLIES TO: 03-05 Accord 4-cylinder 03-05 Element 02-05 CR-V SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop with either of these DTCs? - DTC P2646 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit low voltage) - DTC P2647 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit high voltage) Replacing the VTEC oil pressure switch usually fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then press on with normal troubleshooting. Page 6021 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 2866 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 967 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Remove the cover (A), then remove the set/resume/ cancel switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. - If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control actuator input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit. - If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch. Page 4173 Clutch Disc: Service and Repair Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Installation Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate Installation 1. Temporarily install the clutch disc onto the splines of the transmission mainshaft. Make sure the clutch disc slides freely on the mainshaft. 2. Install the ring gear holder. 3. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the splines (A) of the clutch disc (B), then install the clutch disc using the special tools. 4. Install the pressure plate (A) and the mounting bolts (B) finger-tight. 5. Torque the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the bolts in several steps to prevent warping the diaphragm spring. PRESSURE PLATE MOUNTING BOLT TORQUE: 25 Nm (2.6 kgf-cm, 19 ft. lbs.) 6. Remove the special tools. 7. Make sure the diaphragm spring fingers are all the same height. Page 3613 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Locations Cruise Control Switch: Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 8513 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 5651 14. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine. 15. Check the PSPSW in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to OFF? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 16. 16. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 17. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector. 18. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 19. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 20. Connect PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 to body ground with a jumper wire. 21. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal E16. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and ECM/PCM (E16). Page 2059 4. Check for continuity between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and under-hood fuse/relay box. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. Page 6020 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 4987 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC's 3-1 or 4-1 Set Wiring Harness: Customer Interest Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC's 3-1 or 4-1 Set 08-008 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2003-06 Element - ALL SRS Indicator Comes On With SRS DTC 3-1 or 4-1 SYMPTOM The SRS indicator comes on, and SRS DTC 3-1 (open or increased resistance in driver's seat belt tensioner) or SRS DTC 4-1 (open or increased resistance in front passenger's seat belt tensioner) is stored. PROBABLE CAUSE There is resistance in connector C771 (for DTC 3-1) or C761 (for DTC 4-1). The connectors are located between the rear door wire harness and the rear door subharness (C771 on the driver's side, C761 on the passenger's side). CORRECTIVE ACTION Do the diagnosis then, if needed, replace the faulty rear door harness and subharness with an updated one-piece harness. The updated harness does not have connectors C771 or C761. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. Page 5829 2. Loosely install flange nuts (A) onto the top of the damper. 3. Position the damper on the knuckle, and install the new damper pinch bolts (A) and nuts (B), and lightly tighten the nuts. 4. Place the floor jack under the lower arm ball joint, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight. NOTICE: Do not place the jack against the lower arm ball joint. 5. Tighten the flange nuts on the top of the damper to the specified torque. 6. Tighten the damper pinch nuts to the specified torque. 7. Install the brake hose bracket (A) and the wheel sensor harness bracket (B) (with ABS) onto the damper, and tighten the bolt to the specified torque. Page 7205 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 1372 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 6845 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1298 Fluid - M/T: Service and Repair Transmission Fluid Inspection and Replacement 1. Put the vehicle on level ground, and turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the oil filler plug (A) and washer (B), check the condition of the fluid, and make sure it is at the proper level (C). 3. If the fluid is dirty, remove the drain plug (D) and drain the fluid. 4. Install the drain plug with a new washer, and refill the transmission fluid to the proper level. Fluid Capacity 4WD model: 1.9 liters (2.0 US quarts) at fluid change 2.25 liters (2.4 US quarts) at overhaul 2WD model: 1.9 liters (2.0 US quarts) at fluid change 2.15 liters (2.3 US quarts) at overhaul Always use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using engine oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives. 5. Install the oil filler plug with a new washer. Page 4795 Brake Pad: Testing and Inspection Rear Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Inspection 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the rear wheels. 2. Check the thickness of the inner pad (A) and outer pad (B). Do not include the thickness of the brake pad backing plate. Brake pad thickness: Standard: 8.6 - 9.7 mm 10.34 - 0.38 inch) Service limit: 1.6 mm (0.06 inch) 3. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace all the pads as a set. Page 4921 87. Wheel Speed Sensor, Right Rear (EX) Page 7370 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 5102 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 5715 Disassembly/Reassembly Installation 1. Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the front wheels are aligned straight ahead, then center the cable reel (A). Do this by first rotating the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise about two and a half turns. The arrow mark (B) on the cable reel label should point straight up. Page 8553 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 4387 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 896 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 1. 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) 2. 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) Testing and Inspection Camshaft: Testing and Inspection Inspection NOTE: Do not rotate the camshaft during inspection. 1. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 2. Put the rocker shaft holders, camshaft and camshaft holders on the cylinder head, then tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Specified torque 8 mm bolts: 22 Nm (2.2 kgf-m, 16 ft. lbs.) 6 mm bolts: 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft. lbs.) 6 mm bolts: (21) (22) (23) 3. Seat the camshaft by pushing it away from the camshaft pulley end of the cylinder head. 4. Zero the dial indicator against the end of the camshaft, then push the camshaft back and forth and read the end play. If the end play is beyond the service limit, replace the cylinder head and recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft. Camshaft End Play Standard (New): 0.05 - 0.20 mm (0.002 - 0.008 inch) Service Limit: 0.4 mm (0.02 inch) 5. Unscrew the camshaft holder bolts two turns at a time, in a crisscross pattern. Then remove the camshaft holders from the cylinder head. 6. Lift the camshafts out of the cylinder head, wipe them clean, then inspect the lift ramps. Replace the camshaft if any lobes are pitted, scored, or excessively worn. 7. Clean the camshaft journal surfaces in the cylinder head, then set the camshafts back in place. Place a plastigage strip across each journal. 8. Install the camshaft holders, then tighten the bolts to the specified torque as shown in step 2. Page 5190 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 4340 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Update the PCM How to Update the PCM NOTE: ^ To ensure the latest program is installed, update a PCM whenever the PCM is substituted or replaced. You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. ^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. To prevent PCM damage, do not operate any electrical system; audio system, brakes, air conditioning, power windows, moonroof, and door locks, during the update. ^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the DLC. This will prevent PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda interface module (HIM) to the DLC located under the left end of the dash. 3. Update the PCM according to the procedures described on the HIM label. If the software in the PCM is the latest, replace the PCM. Page 199 DTC P0563 thru P0748 Page 6520 Page 5201 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Description and Operation Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor The BARO sensor is inside the ECM/PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge. Page 3249 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Page 3763 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C move. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C body. 14. If either valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. Service and Repair Sunroof / Moonroof Windguard: Service and Repair Deflector Replacement 1. Remove the frame. 2. Remove the screws (A, B), then remove the deflector (C). Take care not to scratch the frame. 3. Install the deflector in the reverse order of removal. Page 1417 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5273 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2710 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Monitors, Trips, and/or Drive Cycle (Readiness Codes) Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Enable Criteria - Battery voltage is higher than 10.5 V. - With idle. - ECT sensor between 176 °F (80 °C) and 212 °F (100 °C). - MAP sensor less than 46.6 kPa (350 mmHg, 14 in.Hg). - Vehicle speed 0 mph (0 km/h). - IAT sensor between 32 °F (0 °C) and 212 °F (100 °C). Procedure 1. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC). 2. Start the engine. 3. Select EVAP TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS, then select the FUNCTION TEST in the EVAP TEST MENU. If they are normal, readiness is complete. - If they are not normal, go to the next step. 4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Enable Criteria ECT at 140 °F (60 °C) or higher. Procedure 1. Start the engine. 2. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. Check the readiness codes screen for Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor in the DTCs MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. - If the screen shows complete, readiness is complete. - If the screen shows not complete, go to the next step. 4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met. Select the DATA LIST Menu. Check the ECT in the ALL DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. If the ECT is lower than 140 °F (60 °C) , run the engine until it is higher than 140 °(60 °C), then repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Procedure 1. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 2. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Water Pump Replacement Water Pump: Service and Repair Water Pump Replacement Replacement 1. Remove the drive belt. 2. Drain the engine coolant. 3. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 4. Remove the six bolts securing the water pump, then remove the water pump (A). 5. Inspect and clean the O-ring groove and mating surface with the water passage. 6. Install the water pump with new O-rings in the reverse order of removal. 7. Clean up any spilled engine coolant. 8. Install the crankshaft pulley. 9. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Specifications Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Type NGK ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. IZFR6K-11 DENSO ................................................................................................................................................ ....................................................... SKJ20DR-M11 Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 13 ft lb (18 Nm) Gap ..................................................................... ................................................................................................................ 0.039-0.043 inch (1.0-1.1 mm) Page 7086 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. Page 1505 7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B). 8. Install the splash guard (c), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque. 9. Press a wheel bearing (A) onto the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. Page 7568 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 4441 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 1011 Windshield Washer Switch: Testing and Inspection Wiper/Washer Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the wiper/washer switch (B) 4. Remove the two screws, then pull out the wiper/washer switch. 5. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Diagrams 12. Roof Antenna (except '05-'06 USA: EX) Front Impact Sensor Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Front Impact Sensor Front Impact Sensor Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector , the front passenger's airbag 4P connector, both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors, and both seat belt buckle 4P connectors. 3. Remove the front inner fender. 4. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (A), remove the two Torx bolts (B) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the front impact sensor(C). Installation 1. Install the new front impact sensor with new Torx bolts (A), then connect the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact sensor(C). 2. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 3. After installing the front impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 7574 Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair Hatch Lock Cylinder Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the cylinder rod (A), and remove the bolts securing the hatch lock cylinder (B). 3. Turn the lock cylinder (A) 45 °, and pull it out. 4. If necessary, on the outside of the hatch, remove the lock cylinder seal (B). 5. Install the lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Make sure the cylinder rod is connected properly. - Make sure the hatch opens properly and locks securely. Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4975 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 4069 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 8204 Door Switch: Connector Locations 86. Left Rear Door 87. Left Rear Door Page 1774 Intake Manifold Bolts 10. Remove the intake manifold. Installation Intake Manifold 1. Install the intake manifold (A) with a new gasket (B), and tighten the bolts/nuts in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps, beginning with the inner bolt. 2. Install the intake manifold bracket (A), then install the harness clamp (B), and harness connector (C) to the intake manifold bracket. Page 7943 Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Master Switch Test/Replacement Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Release the clips of the switch and push the switch (A) out of the panel, then disconnect the 5P connector (B) from the master switch. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If there is no continuity, replace illumination bulbs (C) or the switch. Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 3276 9. Coat the new O-rings (A) with clean engine oil, and insert the injectors (B) into the fuel rail (C). 10. Install the injector clip (D). 11. Coat the injector O-rings (E) with clean engine oil. 12. Install the injectors in the injector base (F). 13. Install the fuel rail mounting nuts (G) and the ground cable bolt (G101). 14. Connect the connectors on the injectors. 15. Connect the quick-connect fitting. 16. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not operate the starter. After the fuel pump runs for about 2 seconds, the fuel rail will be pressurized. Repeat this two or three times, then check for fuel leakage. Page 2718 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor The FTP sensor converts fuel lank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM/PCM during the EVAP leak check. Locations Power Door Lock Switch: Locations Power Door Locks Component Location Index Page 5852 8. With ABS: Remove the flange bolt (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm (E). 10. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin into the ball joint pin from the inside to the outside of the vehicle. The closed end of the lock pin must be in the range shown. 11. Disconnect the lower arm from the knuckle using the special tool. Service and Repair Receiver Dryer: Service and Repair Receiver/Dryer Desiccant Replacement 1. Remove the condenser. 2. Remove the cap (A) from the bottom of the condenser, then remove the O-rings (B), the filter (C) and the desiccant (D). 3. Install the desiccant in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace the O-rings with new ones, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (DENSO ND-OIL 8) before installing them. - Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage. Page 6478 160. Right Side Of Floor (Left Sim.) (EX: Side Airbag) Page 6024 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 736 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Page 6161 Compressor Clutch Relay: Description and Operation Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Clutch Relay When the ECM/PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode. Page 5612 8. With ABS: Remove the flange bolt (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm (E). 10. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin into the ball joint pin from the inside to the outside of the vehicle. The closed end of the lock pin must be in the range shown. 11. Disconnect the lower arm from the knuckle using the special tool. Page 5256 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Service and Repair Tie Rod Boot: Service and Repair Tie-rod Ball Joint Boot Replacement Special Tools Required Attachment, 42 mm 07QAD-P0A0100 1. Remove the boot from the tie-rod end, and wipe the old grease off the ball pin. 2. Pack the lower area of the ball pin (A) with fresh multipurpose grease. 3. Pack the interior of the new boot (B) and lip (C) with multipurpose grease. Note these items when installing new grease: ^ Keep grease off the boot mounting area (D) and the tapered section (E) of the ball pin. ^ Do not allow dust, dirt, or other foreign materials to enter the boot. 4. Install the new boot (A) using the special tool. The boot must not have a gap at the boot installation sections (B). After installing the boot, check the ball pin tapered section for grease contamination, and wipe it if necessary. Page 7974 Wire Color Codes Page 6323 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 5926 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Recirculation Control Motor Circuit Troubleshooting Recirculation Control Motor Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Check the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck. 2. Disconnect the recirculation control motor 7P connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the recirculation control motor 7P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 14 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the recirculation control motor. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Test the recirculation control motor. Is the recirculation control motor OK? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 13. 7. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector. 8. Check for continuity between the No. 5 and No. 6 terminals of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the recirculation control motor. NO - Go to step 9. Page 7666 ^ Online, enter keyword FRONT ARMREST, and select Front Seat Armrest Replacement - Driver's Seat from the list. 5. Remove the front seat-back cover far enough to access the cover's top mounting springs, but do not remove the side airbag: ^ Refer to page 20-92 of the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER REP, and select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list. NOTE: On DX and LX models, you must entirely remove the seat-back cover and all of the mounting springs. On EX models, you can unzip the back cover, disconnect the upper two springs, and pull it forward. 6. Pull back the seat-back foam, and apply the 40 x 120 mm wool felt strips to the front edge of both sides of the seat frame. Page 5296 2. Clear the SRS DTC memory. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check that the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. ^ If the SRS indicator goes off and the DTC does not return, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE and replace the appropriate rear door harness. ^ If the SRS indicator stays on and the DTC returns, this bulletin may not apply. Follow the service manual procedure to troubleshoot the DTC. Refer to page 23-46 for SRS DTC 3-1, or page 23-60 for SRS DTC 4-1 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual. NOTE: The conditions that cause the resistance in C771 or C761 to trigger DTC 3-1 or DTC 4-1 are intermittent and difficult to repeat. If the code returns after it is cleared, it is likely that there is another problem in the system. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the rear side area trim panel: ^ Refer to page 20-60 of the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords REAR TRIM, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Side Area from the list. 2. Remove the rear door panel: ^ Refer to page 20-19 of the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords REAR PANEL, then select Rear Door Panel Removal/Installation from the list. 3. Disconnect the rear door subharness from the floor wire harness. NOTE: The left rear door harness is shown; the right rear door harness is similar. 4. Remove the rear door hinge lower cover. Locations 33. Left Side Of Dash Page 4039 19. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 20. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 21. Remove the shift lock solenoid harness clamp from the shift lever bracket, and remove the shift lock solenoid. 22. Replace the shift lock solenoid. 23. Install the new shift lock solenoid (A) on the shift lever/bracket assembly (B) with aligning the shift lock solenoid plunger (C) with the tip of the shift lock stop (D). 24. Install the harness clamp (E) on the shift lock solenoid harness (F) at 128 - 138 mm (5.0 - 5.4 inch) (G) from the harness terminal end. 25. Install the clamp in the hole (H) of the shift lever bracket. 26. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 27. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. Page 2906 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (Part 1) Page 2730 Page 4853 6. If the clearance is incorrect, loosen the star locknut (A), and turn the adjuster (B) in or out to adjust. Adjust the clearance while the specified vacuum is applied to the booster. Hold the yoke (C) while adjusting. 7. Tighten the star locknut securely. 8. Remove the special tool (D). 9. Check the pushrod length (A) as shown if the booster is removed. If the length is incorrect, loosen the pushrod locknut (B), and turn the yoke (C) in or out to adjust. 10. Install the master cylinder. Page 7677 Failed Part: P/N 81526-S9A-J01 H/C 6904593 Defect Code: 07407 Symptom Code: 04205 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Push in on the upper middle of the front seat, then push in on both upper side bolsters. Do this for both front seats. If you hear any noise, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE to repair the noisy seat. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before you do this service bulletin. ^ On models with side airbags, you must disconnect the battery (as noted in step 2). However, on models without side airbags, you do not need to disconnect the battery. 1. With side airbags: Write down the customer's audio presets, and make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio. 2. With side airbags: Disconnect and isolate the negative cable from the battery, and wait for 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Cut four strips of wool felt: ^ Two 40 x 120 mm strips ^ Two 10 x 30 mm strips 4. Remove the driver's seat armrest (if applicable): ^ For 2003 models: Refer to page 20-90 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual; ^ For 2004-05 models: Refer to page 20-91 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual, or Page 19 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. Page 889 (A/T) Page 3066 Page 3598 Page 4602 27. Transmission Housing (A/T) 124. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 2232 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 2252 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 791 9. Knock Sensor Page 4783 Template ID: 03-033A Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the front wheels. 2. *Remove the flange bolts (refer to page 19-13 of the 2002-04 CR-V Service Manual, or page 19-12 of the 2003-04 Element Service Manual).* 3. Pivot the caliper slightly so the pads do not come out of position, and hold the pads firmly on both sides with your fingers. Remove the pad springs from the pads. 4. Pivot the caliper up and out of the way. Remove the pads. Page 3411 Throttle Cable/Linkage: Service and Repair Throttle Cable Removal/Installation 1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Fully open the throttle valve, then remove the throttle cable (A) from the throttle link (B). 3. Remove the cable housing (C) from the cable bracket (D). 4. Remove the throttle cable (A) from the accelerator pedal (B). 5. Install the cable in the reverse order of removal. 6. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 7. Hold the cable, removing all slack from it. Page 4506 Windshield: Service and Repair Windshield Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with piano wire. - Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. 1. Remove these items: - Rearview mirror - A-pillar trim, both sides - Windshield wiper arms - Windshield side trim, both sides - Cowl covers 2. Remove the molding (A) from the edge of the windshield (B). If necessary, cut the molding with a utility knife. 3. If the old glass is to be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the glass and body with a grease pencil. 4. Pull down the front portion of the headliner. Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it. 5. Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and body. Using an awl, make a hole through the rubber dam, adhesive, and dashboard seal from inside the vehicle at the corner portion of the glass. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood. 6. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body and dashboard. Carefully cut through the rubber dam and adhesive (C) around the entire windshield. Page 7667 7. Apply the 10 x 30 mm wool felt strips around both ends of the seat frame rod (where the upper seat-back cover springs connect). 8. With side airbags: Make sure the black upper hook for the side airbag cover routes below the zig-zag spring. If it is above the spring, disassemble the airbag cover hooks, and reconnect the hooks with the black hook routing below the zig-zag spring. 9. Reinstall the seat-back cover. To prevent wrinkles, make sure you stretch the material evenly over the foam before securing the inside springs, hooks, and clips. 10. Reinstall the armrest (if applicable). If the vehicle does not have side airbags, you're finished. If the vehicle is equipped with side airbags, go to step 11. 11. With side airbags: Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 12. With side airbags: If you repaired the front passenger's seat, initialize the occupant position detection system (OPDS) unit: Page 550 Page 7488 96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System 1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. Programming the Transmitter 1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor underneath the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. 3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK, then to ON. Page 243 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (Part 2) Page 1368 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 4243 Standard (New): 8.6 - 9.2 mm (0.34 - 0.36 inch) Service Limit: 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) 10. Measure the rivet depth from the clutch disc lining surface (A) to the rivets (B) on both sides. If the rivet depth is less than the service limit, replace the clutch disc. Standard (New):1.65 - 2.25 mm (0.065 - 0.089 inch) Service Limit:0.7 mm (0.03 inch) Page 4075 Page 5275 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 5491 Relay Box: Service and Repair Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash fuse/relay box (A). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal, and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presents. 7. Confirm that all systems work properly. Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: Customer Interest Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Page 6217 2. Connect the cable reel to the driver's airbag 4P connector (A), then install the access panel (B) on the steering wheel. 3. Connect the battery negative cable. 4. After installing the airbag, confirm proper system operation: - Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. - Make sure the horn works. Page 3388 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 8339 Interior Lights - Circuit Diagram Page 3803 28. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 29. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 30. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 31. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 32. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 7863 2. Slightly loosen the striker bolts, and adjust the striker in or out to get the proper measurement. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 3. Check the tailgate for drag by holding in the release lever and opening and closing the tailgate. ^ If the tailgate does not drag, go to step 5. ^ If the tailgate drags, go to step 4. 4. The tailgate strikers will drop when loosened. Mark the original position before loosening the striker bolts. Slightly loosen the striker bolts, and adjust the strikers up and down to eliminate any drag. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 5. Check the adjustment of the hatch. The hatch edge should be even with or 1 mm below the fender. ^ If the adjustment is correct, go to step 7. ^ If the adjustment is not correct, go to step 6. 6. If the hatch sits out too far, screw the hatch edge cushions in two full turns. If it sits in too far, screw the hatch edge cushions out two full turns. 7. Check the hatch for latch drag by holding in the release lever and opening and closing the hatch door. ^ If the latch does not drag, the repair is complete. ^ If the latch drags, go to step 8. 8. Slightly loosen the center striker bolts. While holding in the release lever, open and close the hatch to align the striker. Adjust the striker as needed to eliminate any drag. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). Disclaimer Page 6863 Page 519 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection Evaporator Temperature Sensor Test 1. Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance between its terminals. 2. Then pour warm water on the sensor, and check for a change in resistance. 3. Compare the resistance readings with the specifications shown in the graph; the resistance should be within the specifications. Page 1888 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Service and Repair VTEC Solenoid Valve Removal/Installation VTEC Solenoid Valve Removal/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve connector (A) and the VTEC oil pressure switch connector (B). 2. Remove the bolts (C). 3. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve (D). 4. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new solenoid valve filter (E). Page 4597 Countershaft Sensor: Description and Operation Countershaft Speed Sensor This sensor detects countershaft speed. Page 2907 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (Part 2) Page 2904 Engine Control Module: Connector Views 204. ECM/PCM Page 1563 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 6325 SRS Component Location Index Page 961 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 250 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 1 Page 5572 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Locations Turn Signal Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 5101 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7712 - Make sure the side airbag harness and seat subharness (passenger's seat) are routed properly. - Replace any clips you removed with new ones (A). Install them with commercially available upholstery' ring pliers (B). Page 2227 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 4546 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Diagrams 25. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A 26. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B 27. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Specifications Firing Order: Specifications Firing Order ......................................................................................................................................... ..................................................................... 1-3-4-2 Page 7659 ^ Refer to page 23-24 of the service manual, or ^ Refer to service bulletin 02-052 Initializing the OPDS Unit. 13. With side airbags: Enter the radio anti-theft code, then enter the customer's presets. Set the clock. 14. With side airbags: Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's window power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. ^ Keep the engine running. 15. With side airbags: Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Let the engine warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes. Disclaimer Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Service and Repair Oil Filter: Service and Repair Engine Oil Filter Replacement Special Tools Required Oil filter wrench 07HM-PJ70100 1. Remove the oil filter with the special oil filter wrench. 2. Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal (B) on the new filter's. Clean the seat on the engine block, then apply a light coat of oil to the filter's rubber seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system. 3. Install the oil filter by hand. 4. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the special tool. Tighten: 3/4 turn clockwise. Tightening torque: 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft. lbs.) Page 558 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the connector from the parking brake switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (B) and body ground. ^ With the parking brake lever pulled, there should be continuity. ^ With the parking brake lever released, there should be no continuity. NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, troubleshoot the ABS. ^ If the parking brake switch and brake fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator does not work, check the ABS. Page 6377 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Removal and Installation Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Removal and Installation How to Remove the ECM/PCM for Testing If the troubleshooting for a code requires voltage or resistance checks at the ECM/PCM connectors, remove the ECM/PCM and test it: 1. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 2. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover, the right kick panel, and the grove box. 3. Cut the plastic cross brace in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the area shown, and discard it. 4. Remove the relays (A), then remove the bolts (B) and the glove box frame (C). 5. Remove the gray 20P ECM/PCM wire harness connector (A) from the ECM/PCM mounting bracket. Remove the ECM/PCM mounting bolt (B) Page 1311 Power Steering Fluid: Fluid Type Specifications POWER STEERING SYSTEM FLUID TYPE Honda Power Steering Fluid. Always use Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather. Locations Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index 13. Right Side Of Engine Page 1866 VTEC System - The VTEC system changes the cam profile to correspond to the engine speed. It maximizes torque at low engine speed and output at high engine speed. - The low lift cam is used at low engine speeds, and the high lift cam is used at high engine speeds. VTEC/VTC Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A This sensor detects camshaft angle position for the VTC system. Page 2667 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Specifications CMP Pulse Plate Replacement Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Replacement CMP Pulse Plate A Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate A. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate A in the reverse order of removal. CMP Pulse Plate B Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. Specifications Brake Fluid: Specifications Fluid type * ........................................................................................................................................... ....................... Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid *If Honda fluid is not available, use only DOT 3 or 4 from a sealed container as a temporary replacement. However, the use of any non Honda brake fluid cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system. Page 5948 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 959 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Page 240 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) (Part 1) Page 6822 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors A/T - Do Not Remove Torque Converter From Mainshaft Torque Converter: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Do Not Remove Torque Converter From Mainshaft SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Keep Torque Converter on Mainshaft to Avoid Damage APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: We can't emphasize enough how important it is to keep the torque converter in place when you're handling or installing a reman A/T. If the torque converter slips off the mainshaft, and you don't put it back on the shaft exactly right, you could cut the O-ring. This could result in loss of lock-up control and ATF leakage. Page 233 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 1437 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 5272 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6776 Service and Repair Sunroof / Moonroof Frame: Service and Repair Frame and Drain Tube Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove these items: - Skylight - Headliner 2. Disconnect the drain tubes (A). 3. With an assistant holding the frame (B), remove the bolts, then remove the frame. 4. Carefully remove the frame through the hatch opening. Take care not to scratch the interior trim and body, or tear the seat cover. 5. Remove these items: - Rear side trim panel - Rear seat belt retractor and seat belt protector 6. Remove the drain valve (A) from the body, and disconnect the front drain tube (B) and rear drain tube (C). 7. Detach the clips (D) securing the rear drain tube, then pull the tube out. 8. Tie a string to the end of the front drain tube, then pull the tube down out of the C-pillar. Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220 Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information 98-011 February 20, 2004 Applies To: ALL Keyless Remote Transmitter Information (Supersedes 98-011, dated February 6, 2003) Updated information is shown by asterisks and a black bar. This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering, and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below. Locations Page 8693 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 4747 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 5232 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. Page 2532 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. Diagnostic Aids Blower Motor: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 4702 4. Push in the lock (A) of the ABS control unit 47P connector (B), then connect the connector. 5. Connect the six brake lines. 6. Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels. 7. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator and brake system indicator go off. 8. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator and brake system indicator do not come on. Page 2064 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment ECM/PCM Terminal Values Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection ECM/PCM Terminal Values ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 1 Page 3976 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 6405 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to the impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit, respectively, will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: Seat Belt Tensioners and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners 1. A front impact sensor must activate and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the tensioners. 3. The charges must ignite and deploy the tensioners. Driver's and Front Passenger's Airbag(s) 1. A front impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals, and depending on the severity of the collision and whether the seat belt buckle switch is ON or OFF, it sends the appropriate signals to the airbag inflator(s). 3. The inflators that received signals must ignite and deploy the airbags. Side Airbag(s) 1. Aside impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the side airbag inflator(s). However, the microprocessor turns off the signals to the front passenger's side airbag if the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger's head is in the deployment path of the side airbag. 3. The inflator that received the signal must ignite and deploy the side airbag. Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the system is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after 6 seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the system. The system must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the SRS unit memory stores a DTC that relates to the cause of the malfunction, and the unit is connected to the data link circuit. This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS when it is connected to the data link connector (DLC). NOTE: If the battery negative cable is disconnected during troubleshooting, do the following: Before you disconnect the battery: Interior - Front Seat Back Squeaking/Rubbing Noises Seat Cover: Customer Interest Interior - Front Seat Back Squeaking/Rubbing Noises 05-075 December 21, 2005 Applies To: 2003-05 Element - ALL Front Seat-Back Makes a Squeaking, Chafing, or Rubbing Noise SYMPTOM You hear a squeaking, chafing, or rubbing noise when you push on the middle of the seat-back or on the side bolsters. PROBABLE CAUSE There are three possible causes for the noise: ^ The seat-back foam rubs against the front edge of the side of the seat frame. ^ The two top seat cover springs rub against the seat frame. ^ On vehicles with side airbags, there may be interference between the zig-zag spring and an improperly routed side airbag cover mounting hook. CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply wool felt to the front edge of both sides of the seat frame and around both ends of the seat frame rod and, on models equipped with side airbags, reposition the side airbag cover mounting hook. REQUIRED MATERIALS Wool Felt: P/N 06993-SA5-000, H/C 2086676 (One roll will repair approximately eight vehicles.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Page 5500 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 3379 Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 4907 4. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B) on the pedal arm). Then, turn the switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.4 to 3.0 mm (0.016 - 0.118 inch) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released. 5. Check the brake pedal free play. Pedal Free Play 1. With the engine off, inspect the play (A) on the pedal pad (B) by pushing the pedal by hand. Free Play: 1 - 5 mm (1/16 - 3/16 inch) 2. If the pedal free play is out of specification, adjust the brake pedal position switch (C). If the pedal free play is insufficient, it may result in brake drag. Page 5408 134. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) 135. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6720 ^ Online, enter keyword AUDIO, NAVI, or RES, and select the appropriate removal procedure from the list. NOTE: If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, navigation DVD, etc.) is stuck in the unit, leave it there. The manufacturer will remove and return it. 3. Obtain an Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form, and complete the Technician section.To obtain the form, do this: ^ On ISIS, click on Technical Library, then click on Job Aids. ^ Select the applicable form from the list, and print it out: - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Audio System Component Repair Form - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Navigation System Component Repair Form - Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement Rear Entertainment System Component Repair Form Parts Manager: 4. Complete the parts manager's section of the Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form. Make sure you include your name, department, and dealership phone number on the form. 5. Identify the manufacturer. Units sent to the wrong manufacturer may not be shipped back within the usual 5-7 days. ^ Look for the number code on the face of the unit. ^ If the unit has no number code on its face, check the label on the unit housing, and compare the first two or three letters of the radio reference number (or the audio unit model number) to this list: Alpine - CM, CD, MR, or MF Clarion - PH Fujitsu Ten - CE or SD Panasonic - CQ or CR Pioneer KEH or DEH 6. Contact the manufacturer (see step 9) to request an estimate for the cost of the repair plus shipping. 7. Complete the required paperwork: ^ Paying by check - Make a dealership check out to the manufacturer for the cost of repair and return shipping. Make sure to include the check number on the form. NOTE: For all Panasonic products, make your check out to Komtec Electronics. ^ Paying by credit card (Visa or Mastercard only) - When you use a credit card, fill in all of these fields on the component repair form: - Credit card number - Credit card expiration date Page 7766 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Connector Locations 111. Middle Of Hatch 112. Left Side Of Tailgate Page 3013 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Knock Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the knock sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the knock sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 5752 11. Remove the flange bolts, then remove the lower arm. NOTE: Use new flange bolts during reassembly. 12. Mark the lower arm at the location of the arrow on the compliance bushing. Service and Repair Oil Pan: Service and Repair Removal 1. Drain the engine oil. 2. If the engine is still in the vehicle, remove the subframe. 1 Attach the chain hoist to the engine. 2 Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints. 3 Remove the rear mount mounting bolts. 4 Remove the front mount mounting bolt. 5 Remove the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) filter mounting bolt (A/T). 6 Make the appropriate reference lines at positions A and B that line up with the center of the subframe mounting bolts. 7 Attach the special tool to the subframe, then attach the jack to the special tool. 8 Remove the front subframe mounting bolts, then remove the subframe. 3. Remove the stiffener (M/T). 4. Remove the bolts/nuts securing the oil pan. 5. Drive an oil pan seal cutter between the oil pan and cylinder block. 6. Cut the oil pan seal by striking the side of the cutter to slide the cutter along the oil pan. 7. Remove the oil pan. Page 7385 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. Page 8538 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5365 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 1447 Relay Box: Diagrams 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Noise From The Rear When Backing Up Parking Brake Cable: Technical Service Bulletins Noise From The Rear When Backing Up SOURCE: Honda Service News August 2004 TITLE: Noise From the Rear When Backing Up APPLIES TO: 2003-04 Element SERVICE TIP: Got a 2003-04 Element in your shop that pops, snaps, groans, or clicks from the rear when backing up? The problem could be the parking brake cable needs stretching. The parking brake in a 2003-04 Element is adjusted on the tight side to allow for normal cable stretch that happens after about 15 to 20 times of use. If your customer doesn't use the parking brake, the cable never stretches to its proper length. This can cause the shoes to drag and make noise when the vehicle backs up. To fix this problem, do this: 1. Set and release the parking brake about 15 to 20 times to stretch the cable. 2. Test-drive the vehicle in reverse. - If the noise is gone, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the noise is still there, refer to section 19 of the 200304 Element S/M, and adjust the parking brake. (On ISIS, use the keyword PARK BRAKE, then select Parking Brake Check and Adjustment from the list.) Page 1919 SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. Locations Page 7774 Sound Proofing / Insulation: Locations Insulator Sizes Page 5039 (A/T) Page 4295 7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B). 8. Install the splash guard (c), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque. 9. Press a wheel bearing (A) onto the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. Page 8470 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Front Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Front Removal and Installation Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Replacement 1. Remove the flange bolt (A). NOTE: The pad springs are installed on the pads to prevent brake drag. Be careful when pivoting up the caliper body fully, or the spring could be flipped out of position. 2. Pivot the caliper slightly so the pads do not come out of position, and hold the pads on both sides firmly with your fingers. Remove the pad springs (A) from the pads. 3. Pivot the caliper up out of the way, and remove the pads (A). 4. Remove the pad shims (B). 5. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration. Page 1868 7. Replace the VTC oil control solenoid valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat the new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 7159 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Obtain the customer's key code from the iN (Key Code Inquiry). Refer to the Honda High Security key Codes book that comes with the Matrix H key cutting machine. Write down the applicable cutting code for the key code number. Make sure the corrections to the code book listed in Service Bulletin 01-077, Cutting Sidewinder-Type keys With the Matrix H key Cutting Machine, have been made. 2. Use the chart shown to write down the numbers found in the key code book. 3. Remove the door panel. Refer to the appropriate service manual or use ISIS keyword Door Panel. 4. Remove the plastic cover as necessary. 5. Raise the window glass fully. 6. Remove the lock cylinder. ^ For Civic, go to step 7. ^ For CR-V, go to step 8. ^ For Element, go to step 11. 7. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder and disconnect the cylinder rod. Then go to step 14. Page 1775 3. Install the water bypass hoses. 4. Tighten the bolt (A) securing the harness holder, and tighten the two bolts (B) securing the throttle cable bracket. 5. Install the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister hose (A) and brake booster vacuum hose (B). 6. Install the throttle cable, then adjust the cable. 7. Install the cruise control cable, then adjust the cable. Page 753 106. TP Sensor Page 5554 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 7078 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 2286 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Monitors, Trips, and/or Drive Cycle (Readiness Codes) Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Enable Criteria - Battery voltage is higher than 10.5 V. - With idle. - ECT sensor between 176 °F (80 °C) and 212 °F (100 °C). - MAP sensor less than 46.6 kPa (350 mmHg, 14 in.Hg). - Vehicle speed 0 mph (0 km/h). - IAT sensor between 32 °F (0 °C) and 212 °F (100 °C). Procedure 1. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC). 2. Start the engine. 3. Select EVAP TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS, then select the FUNCTION TEST in the EVAP TEST MENU. If they are normal, readiness is complete. - If they are not normal, go to the next step. 4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Enable Criteria ECT at 140 °F (60 °C) or higher. Procedure 1. Start the engine. 2. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. Check the readiness codes screen for Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor in the DTCs MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. - If the screen shows complete, readiness is complete. - If the screen shows not complete, go to the next step. 4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met. Select the DATA LIST Menu. Check the ECT in the ALL DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. If the ECT is lower than 140 °F (60 °C) , run the engine until it is higher than 140 °(60 °C), then repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Procedure 1. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 2. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Page 3688 9. Wait for the MVCI to copy the data for updating the vehicle. 10. After the MVCI has copied the files, a confirmation screen appears. Press ENTER to update the control unit/module, or press ESC to exit. 11. Wait for the MVCI to update the control unit/module. 12. After the MVCI finishes updating the control uniti module, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) when directed by the MVCI. 13. Turn the ignition switch back to ON (II) within 60 seconds to complete the updating procedure. NOTE: The MVCI has a countdown timer. If you do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II) within 60 seconds, the MVCI sets an error code. Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 5580 TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. Page 7512 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Knob Switch Test Door Lock Knob Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the actuator (B). 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the LOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the UNLOCKED position. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock actuator. Page 5297 5. Pull out the grommet and disconnect the connectors. Remove the rear door subharness. NOTE: The replacement harness does not have these connectors. 6. Remove the old harness from the door, noting all of the clip locations. 7. Install the new rear door harness, and make sure all of the connectors are securely connected. Also make sure all of the harness grommets and mounting clips are securely attached. 8. Reinstall all removed parts. 9. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure that the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. Disclaimer Page 8681 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2993 96. ELD Unit Page 3247 SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. Page 4680 Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair ATF Temperature Sensor Test/Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Disconnect the shift solenoid harness connector. 5. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 6. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 7. Remove the bolt (A), and remove the shift solenoid harness connector (B). 8. Measure ATF temperature sensor resistance between the No. 6 and No. 7 terminals of the shift solenoid harness connector. Page 6657 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 1629 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 1623 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 2910 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) (Part 2) ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Page 8029 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 4749 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 6391 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 2308 Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: Recalls Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Component Locations Relay Box: Component Locations 7. Left Side Of Engine Compartment 42. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 7822 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 5192 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2689 204. ECM/PCM Page 6942 9. Look in the following table for the switches most closely related to the problem. While still in Mode 2, operate the switches. If the circuit is OK, the ceiling light should blink once. If the circuit is faulty, there will be no indication. In the table is a list of circuits that can be checked in Mode 2. NOTE: You can check the rear door switches individually if the others are latched. Does the ceiling light blink? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Go to step 10. 10. Check two or three other circuits listed in the chart. Does the ceiling light blink for each circuit? YES - The additional circuits are OK. Repair the short or open in the circuit that failed the test in step 9. NO - Multiple failed circuits can mean that the control unit has failed without triggering a DTC, Test a few more circuits. If they also fail, test the multiplex control unit inputs. If all the input test are OK, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit, gauge assembly, or ECM/ PCM, one at a time, then recheck. If the system works properly, the part that was substituted is faulty; replace it. If there is still a malfunction, substitute a known-good control unit for the next most likely faulty control unit, then recheck. If the system works properly, that control unit is faulty; replace it. Page 4791 5. Remove and discard the lower pad retainer clip. Install the new lower pad retainer clip. 6. Apply Dow Corning Molykote M77 Assembly Paste to the areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe off any excess paste. Do not get any paste on the disc or pad surfaces. 7. Install the brake pads in their original positions and reinstall all removed parts. 8. Repeat steps 2 thru 7 for the other front caliper. 9. Install the front wheels. Torque the wheel nuts to 108 Nm (80 lb-ft). Disclaimer Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 5206 Fuse Block: Connector Views 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 5994 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 5952 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Locations Tail Lamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 7479 1997 Accord SE With Factory-Installed Security System 1997 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Accord EX & 00-02 Accord SE 1998-02 Accord EX with factory-installed security system 2000 and 2002 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Page 3748 9. Click on the check mark to begin the control unit/module update. NOTE: To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update. 10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to ON (II). 11. Once the software verifies that the control unit/module has been successfully updated, click on Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on No to exit the update program. HIM Updating in Storage Mode NOTE: If the red No.3 on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error Codes. 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication Installation Instructions for HDS PC So ftware on ISIS. NOTE: If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. From the iN workstation desktop, select CM Update (ECU Rewrite). 3. Click on the tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is set to HIM. 4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then select Storage Mode and follow the on-screen instructions. 5. Take the HIM to the vehicle, and connect it to the vehicle's DLC. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect Page 3738 14. After finishing the updating procedure, the MVCI gives you the option of updating the same system on another vehicle. For more information on updating several vehicles, see the MVCI User Guide. 15. If an error occurs during the updating procedure, an error message appears. Keep the ignition switch in ON (II). Press ENTER to display the error code. Refer to the CM Update Error Code Table in the MVCI User Guide for more information about the code and its solutions.* UPDATING WITH THE GNA600 NOTE: For more information on the GNA6OO, refer to the GNA600 User's Guide. This guide is on ISIS, under the Tool Information heading. Two modes of updating can be used with the GNA600: Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Use Pass-Thru mode when the GNA6OO can be connected to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. Use Storage mode when the GNA6OO cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. GNA600 Updating in Pass-Thru Mode 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication Installation Instructions for HDS PC Software on ISIS. Page 6598 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 88-91 Prelude With Dealer-Installed Security System 1988-91 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Page 8595 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal Pressure Plate: Service and Repair Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal Clutch Replacement Special Tools Required ^ Clutch alignment disc 07JAF-PM7011A ^ Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 ^ Clutch alignment shaft 07ZAF-PR8A100 ^ Remover handle 07936-3710100 Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Removal 1. Check the diaphragm spring fingers for height using the special tool and a feeler gauge. If the height is more than the service limit, replace the pressure plate. Standard (New): 0.6 mm (0.02 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.8 mm (0.03 inch) 2. Install the special tools. 3. To prevent warping, unscrew the pressure plate mounting bolts (A) in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove the pressure plate (B). 4. Inspect the fingers of the diaphragm spring (A) for wear at the release bearing contact area. Page 7569 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 1541 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 1921 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 3497 Spark Plug: Application and ID Spark Plug Type NGK ..................................................................................................................................................... ............................................................. IZFR6K-11 DENSO ................................................................................................................................................ ....................................................... SKJ20DR-M11 Torque ................................................................................................................................................. ...................................................... 13 ft lb (18 Nm) Gap ..................................................................... ................................................................................................................ 0.039-0.043 inch (1.0-1.1 mm) Page 2271 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (Part 1) Page 2056 5. Disconnect the jumper, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and under-dash fuse/ relay box. 6. Disconnect the radiator fan motor 2P connector. 7. Check for continuity between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Repair open in the wire between the underhood fuse/relay box and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2. 8. Check for continuity between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the radiator fan motor. NO - Check for an open in the wire between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G201. 9. Reinstall the radiator fan relay. 10. Disconnect the radiator fan switch 2P connector. 11. Connect radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire. Does the radiator fan run? YES - Replace the radiator fan switch. NO - Go to step 12. Page 1379 Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 2) Page 7580 Power Mirror Motor: Service and Repair Power Mirror Actuator Replacement 1. Remove the mirror holder. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector from the mirror, and remove the power mirror. 3. Remove the cover (A), then remove the two screws from the mirror connector (B). 4. Record the terminal locations and wire colors. 5. Cut the wire harness with the wire cutter. 6. Remove the three screws, and separate the mirror housing (A) from the bracket (B). Page 3750 13. The green No.1 LED stays on, and the yellow No. 2 LED blinks. This indicates that the control uniti module is being updated. NOTE: To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update. 14. When the yellow No.2 LED stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the green No.1 and the yellow No.2 LEDs stay on, the control unit/module is updated. 16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HIM from the vehicle. To do the same update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps 11 thru 16. Diagnosing HIM Error Codes If the red No.3 LED on the HIM came on or was flashing during the update, do this: 1. Leave the ignition switch in ON (II) while you disconnect the HIM from the vehicle's DLC. 2. If not already done, load the latest HDS sofiware onto the iN workstation. 3. Connect the HIM to the iN workstation. Connect the small end of the PC interface cable to the PC port on the HIM. 4. If not already done, connect the PC end of the blue PC interface cable to the 9P serial port on the iN workstation. 5. Connect the 110 VACIl 2 VDC power supply to the HIM and to a wall outlet. 6. Restart the CM Update application on the iN workstation. 7. On the right side of the screen, click on the view error button. 8. Click on View Error at the bottom of the screen to display the problem encountered while the HIM was connected to the vehicle. ^ If you get a Code 40 error message (usually caused by a communication error between the HIM and the workstation), do this: - Do the HIM self-test procedure (see HIM Self-Test). - Move the blue PC interface cable to another communication port on the back of the computer. - If one of the communication ports on the back of the computer has another cable connected to it, disconnect that cable, leave it disconnected during the HIM procedure, and connect the blue PC interface cable to that port. - Connect the HIM to another computer. (Some iN workstations require an internal communication port setup procedure. For help, call the iN Support Center) ^ If you get a Code 50 error message (usually caused by a communications error between the HIM and the vehicle's DLC), do this: - Diagnose and clear any DTCs. (The control unit/module must be free of DTCs before you can update it.) - Make sure there's a good connection between the HIM and the DLC. - Retry the update using the procedures in this service bulletin or on the back of the HIM. - If needed, call Tech Line for further help. HIM Self-Test If you suspect there's a problem with the HIM, review the instructions in this service bulletin to make sure you are using it correctly. If you still think there's a problem, do this self-test: Page 2048 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 6724 Page 3111 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 5136 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7726 Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Remove the driver's seat from the vehicle. ^ Refer to page 20-86 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual, or * ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT, and select Front Seat Removal/Installation from the list.* 4. Place the seat on a workbench covered with shop towels. 5. Pull off the recline handle. 6. Pry the center cap from the height knob with a flat- tip screwdriver. Remove the C-clip, and pull off the knob. 7. Remove the recline cover (one screw, three clips, and two hooks). Page 8312 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Removal and Installation Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Removal and Installation How to Remove the ECM/PCM for Testing If the troubleshooting for a code requires voltage or resistance checks at the ECM/PCM connectors, remove the ECM/PCM and test it: 1. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 2. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover, the right kick panel, and the grove box. 3. Cut the plastic cross brace in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the area shown, and discard it. 4. Remove the relays (A), then remove the bolts (B) and the glove box frame (C). 5. Remove the gray 20P ECM/PCM wire harness connector (A) from the ECM/PCM mounting bracket. Remove the ECM/PCM mounting bolt (B) Page 838 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 7845 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 5517 2. Clear the SRS DTC memory. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check that the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. ^ If the SRS indicator goes off and the DTC does not return, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE and replace the appropriate rear door harness. ^ If the SRS indicator stays on and the DTC returns, this bulletin may not apply. Follow the service manual procedure to troubleshoot the DTC. Refer to page 23-46 for SRS DTC 3-1, or page 23-60 for SRS DTC 4-1 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual. NOTE: The conditions that cause the resistance in C771 or C761 to trigger DTC 3-1 or DTC 4-1 are intermittent and difficult to repeat. If the code returns after it is cleared, it is likely that there is another problem in the system. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the rear side area trim panel: ^ Refer to page 20-60 of the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords REAR TRIM, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Side Area from the list. 2. Remove the rear door panel: ^ Refer to page 20-19 of the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords REAR PANEL, then select Rear Door Panel Removal/Installation from the list. 3. Disconnect the rear door subharness from the floor wire harness. NOTE: The left rear door harness is shown; the right rear door harness is similar. 4. Remove the rear door hinge lower cover. Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Page 1678 Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Standards and Service Limits Crankshaft bearing Main bearing-to-journal oil clearance No.1, 2, 4 and 5 journals Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 0.017 - 0.041 mm (0.0007 - 0.0016 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. ...................................................................... 0.050 mm (0.0020 inch) No.3 journal Standard or New .................................................................................................................................... 0.025 - 0.049 mm (0.0010 - 0.0019 inch) Service Limit ............................................................................................. ...................................................................... 0.055 mm (0.0022 inch) Rod bearing clearance Standard or New .......................................................................................................................................... 0.020 0.050 mm (0.0008 - 0.0020 inch) Service Limits ................................................................................. ....................................................................................... 0.060 mm (0.0024 inch) Page 4013 Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair Transmission Range Switch Replacement 1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift to the N position. 3. Remove the transmission range switch cover. 4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 5. Remove the old transmission range switch, and install the new switch. 6. Make sure that the selector control shaft (A) is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the N position. Specifications Engine Assembly Page 6836 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 5336 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 1545 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 7341 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Side Pillar Area Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Side Pillar Area Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program; NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. Quarter Pillar Trim 1. Remove the quarter pillar trim as shown. To remove the trim, remove the upper portion of the rear side trim panel as needed. Page 5828 7. Check that the cutout (A) in the side of the upper spring seat (B) is in the position shown. If the cutout is out of position, remove all the components from the strut spring compressor. Go to step 2, and reassemble the spring and upper spring seat accordingly. 8. Hold the bottom of the damper with your hand, and compress the spring. Do not compress the spring excessively. 9. Install the 12 mm nut (A) on the damper shaft (B). Hold the damper shaft with a hex wrench (C), and tighten the 12 mm nut to the specified torque. 10. Remove the damper assembly from the strut spring compressor. Installation 1. Lower the lower arm, and position the damper assembly in the body. Turn the damper mounting base so the "AL" or "/'R" mark (A) faces toward the outside of the vehicle. Page 5211 210. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Page 8480 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3159 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1. Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.). If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step 7. 7. Replace the VTC valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat a new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 7995 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5366 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 8329 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Testing and Inspection Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Coolant Temperature Gauge Troubleshooting Before testing, check the No. 9 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 1. Start the engine, and check the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). Does the MIL come and stay on? YES - Troubleshoot the cause of the ECM/PCM DTC, and recheck. NO - Go to step 2. 2. Check for a multiplex control unit DTC. Is a DTC indicated? YES - Troubleshooting the cause of the multiplex control unit DTC, and recheck. NO - Go to step 3. 3. Do the communication line check with the self-diagnosis procedure. Is the word "Error" indicated on the odo/trip meter display? YES - The gauge cannot receive the signal from the multiplex control unit and the ECM/PCM. Check for an open in the WHT/GRN wire (gauge connector terminal B10). NO - Go to step 4. 4. Do the gauge drive circuit check with the self-diagnosis procedure. Does the temperature gauge needle sweep from the minimum position to the maximum, then return to the minimum position? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Replace the gauge assembly. 5. Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM , and recheck. Does the symptom/indication go away? YES - Replace the ECM/PCM. NO - Substitute a known-good gauge assembly. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the gauge assembly. Page 7800 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Front Suspension Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 3130 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 3490 9. Knock Sensor Page 1104 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 5893 8. With ABS: Remove the flange bolt (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm (E). 10. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin into the ball joint pin from the inside to the outside of the vehicle. The closed end of the lock pin must be in the range shown. 11. Disconnect the lower arm from the knuckle using the special tool. Page 2723 100. IAC Valve Page 4088 8. Install the new O-rings (two O-rings per a solenoid valve) (F) on the good solenoid valve. The replacement solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. 9. Install shift solenoid valves A, C, and E by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valves until their mounting bolt brackets contact the servo body. NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve B before installing shift solenoid valve E. If solenoid valve B is installed before solenoid valve E, it may damage the hydraulic control system. 10. Install shift solenoid valve B by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valve until its mounting bolt bracket contacts the bracket of installed solenoid. 11. Connect shift solenoid valve A connector (G) with the ATF temperature sensor. 12. Connect solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 14. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 15. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 16. Remove the transmission jack. 17. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. SRS Components Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Components SRS Components Air-bags The SRS is a safety device which, when used with the seat belt, is designed to help protect the driver and front passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including safing sensor and impact sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C), the front passenger's airbag (D), seat belt tensioners (1), seat belt buckle tensioners (J), and front impact sensors (K). Since the driver's and front passenger's airbags use the same sensors, both normally inflate at the same time. However, it is possible for only one airbag to inflate. This can occur when the severity of a collision is at the margin, or threshold, that determines whether or not the airbags will deploy. In such cases, the seat belt will provide sufficient protection, and the supplemental protection offered by the airbag would be minimal. Side Airbags The side airbags (E) are in each front seat-back. They help protect the upper torso of the driver or front seat passenger during a moderate to severe side impact. Side impact sensors (F) in each door sill and in the SRS unit detect such an impact and instantly inflate the driver's or the passenger's side airbag. Only one side airbag will deploy during a side impact. If the impact is on the passenger's side, the passenger's side airbag will deploy even if there is no passenger. Seat Belt and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners The seat belt and seat belt buckle tensioners are linked with the SRS airbags to further increase the effectiveness of the seat belt. In a front-end collision, the tensioners instantly retract the belt and buckle firmly to secure the occupants in their seats. OPDS The side airbag system also includes an occupant position detection system (OPDS). This system consists of sensors (G) and a OPDS unit (H) in the front passenger's seat-back. The OPDS unit sends occupant height and position data to the SRS unit. If the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger is of small stature (for example, a child) and the front passenger is leaning into the side airbag deployment path, the SRS unit will automatically disable the passenger's side airbag. The SRS unit will also disable the airbag when the OPDS detects certain objects on the seat. When the side airbag is disabled, the side airbag cutoff indicator on the instrument panel alerts the driver that the passenger's side airbag will not deploy in a side impact. When the object is removed, or the passenger sits upright, the side airbag cutoff indicator will go off after a few seconds, alerting the driver that the passenger's side airbag will deploy in a side impact. Page 6906 Page 3103 Wire Color Codes Page 3684 HIM: UPDATING TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS ^ If you're updating a control module/unit on a new vehicle, make sure all its fuses were installed at PDI. ^ To prevent control unit/module damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power windows, moonroof, etc.) during the update. ^ Make sure the HDS Tablet, the HDS Pocket Tester, or the iN workstation has the latest version of HDS software. The HDS version number is on the HDS start-up screen. To find the latest HDS software information on ISIS, select Search by Vehicle, select Technical Library, expand the ServiceNews branch, select Keyword (All Models), enter keywords HDS VERSION, then select the latest article. NOTE: The screen is from an iN workstation. The HDS tablet and pocket tester screens are similar. *^Make sure the Database Update listed in a Honda service communication (service bulletin, product update, iN message, etc.) is the same or earlier than the ones listed on the Reprogramming screen of the MVCI (on the MVCI, select CM Update Mode, then select Reprogramming), or on the Page 1036 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 7748 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Knob Switch Test Door Lock Knob Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the actuator (B). 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the LOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock knob switch is in the UNLOCKED position. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the driver's door lock actuator. Page 8197 Parking Brake Warning Switch: Testing and Inspection Test 1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the connector from the parking brake switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (B) and body ground. ^ With the parking brake lever pulled, there should be continuity. ^ With the parking brake lever released, there should be no continuity. NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, troubleshoot the ABS. ^ If the parking brake switch and brake fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator does not work, check the ABS. Page 2259 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 2154 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Master Switch Replacement Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Master Switch Replacement Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the switch panel. 2. Remove the door handle. 3. Disconnect the 20P connector from the power window master switch. Front Passenger's Switch 4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. Driver's Switch: The driver's switch is combined with the control unit so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty. NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure. if you disconnect the switch or replace it. Locations Page 6915 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Fuse Block: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 8467 Page 3310 Fuel Return Line: Testing and Inspection Fuel Line Inspection Part 1 Page 737 10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch cover (A). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all gear positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator. 12. Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position. 13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position. 14. Allow the wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. Page 5174 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 228 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Standards and Service Limits Flywheel: Specifications Standards and Service Limits Flywheel Runout on clutch mating surface ......................................................................................................................... 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) maximum Page 2033 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 4603 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 1. 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) 2. 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) Locations Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4171 5. Inspect the pressure plate surface (A) for wear, cracks. and burning. 6. Inspect for warpage using a straight edge (A) and a feeler gauge (B). Measure across the pressure plate (C). If the warpage is more than the service limit, replace the pressure plate. Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.001 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) 7. Remove the clutch disc and special tools. 8. Inspect the lining of the clutch disc for signs of slippage or oil. If the clutch disc is burned black or oil soaked, replace it. 9. Measure the clutch disc thickness. If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace the clutch disc. Locations Power Door Lock Switch: Locations Power Door Locks Component Location Index Page 8618 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 8276 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 2533 ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. Page 6631 Programming the Transmitter 1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat. 2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a square, yellow button; this is the programming button. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals. 5. Release the programming button. 6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the system exits the programming mode. 7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK" button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.) 8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 9. Test all the transmitters. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 4990 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 3067 Capacity Specifications Power Steering Fluid: Capacity Specifications Power steering fluid Fluid change ........................................................................................................................................ ............................................... 0.27 L (0.28 US qt.) System overhaul ................................................. ................................................................................................................................ 0.83 L (0.87 US qt.) Page 1604 9. Remove the camshaft holders. Measure the widest portion of plastigage on each journal. - If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is within limits, go to step 11. - If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit and the camshaft has been replaced, replace the cylinder head. - If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit and the camshaft has not been replaced, go to step 10. Camshaft-to-Holder Oil Clearance Standard (New): No. 1 Journal: 0.030 - 0.069 mm (0.001 - 0.003 inch) No. 2, 3, 4, 5 Journals: 0.060 - 0.099 mm (0.002 - 0.004 inch) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) 10. Check the total runout with the camshaft supported on V-blocks. - If the total runout of the camshaft is within the service limit, replace the cylinder head. - If the total runout is beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft and recheck the camshaft-to-holder oil clearance. If the oil clearance is still beyond the service limit, replace the cylinder head. Camshaft Total Runout Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.001 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.04 mm (0.002 inch) 11. Measure cam lobe height. Cam Lobe Height Standard (New) Page 5504 210. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Wheel Bearings - Humming Or Growling Wheel Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins Wheel Bearings - Humming Or Growling SOURCE: Honda Service News November 2003 TITLE: Humming or Growling? Check the Wheel Bearings APPLIES TO: 1998-04 Accord, 2001-04 CR-V, 2003 Element, 1999-04 Odyssey SERVICE TIP: A bad front wheel bearing(s) can make a humming or growling that's easily mistaken for a noisy bearing or gear in the A/T. Before you order a reman A/T, test-drive the vehicle to make sure the A/T is really the problem. Listen carefully as you accelerate and decelerate during your test-drive. Shift into neutral. Varying throttle position and shifting into neutral changes the load on the A/T bearings and gears. If the A/T has a bad bearing or gear, the change in load will affect its noise level. If that's what you find, then go ahead and order a reman A/T. If the noise level isn't affected by changes in throttle position or shifting into neutral, then the culprit could be a bad front wheel bearing(s). Since the wheel bearings aren't mounted on shafts being spread apart by gears, they're not affected by changes in load. Also, since Honda uses angular contact wheel bearings, you won't normally hear a change in noise level when you swerve the vehicle from side to side. Hook up a STEELMAN® ChassisEAR (T/N JSP SM06600) to the front knuckles, and test-drive the vehicle again. Refer to S/B 00-063, STEELMAN ChassisEAR Diagnostic Tool, for more info. If you hear humming or growling from one or affected wheel bearing(s), and then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the noise is gone. If you don't hear any noise from the front wheel bearings, the problem could be from tire noise or vibration. Swap the front wheels and tires with a known-good vehicle. Testdrive the vehicle, and check if the noise or vibration goes away. STEELMAN(R) and ChassisEAR (R) are registered trademarks of J.S. Products, Inc. Page 6023 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 4973 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 4136 Page 1615 Wire Color Codes Page 6596 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Odyssey EX 1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *2001-04 Odyssey EX models with factory- installed security system* *Transmitter Identification Page 6540 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Removal and Installation Blower Motor: Service and Repair Removal and Installation Blower Unit Removal and Installation 1. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover, the right kick panel, and the glove box. 2. Cut the plastic cross brace in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the area shown. Remove and discard the plastic cross brace. 3. Remove the relays (A) and the wire harness clip (B), then remove the bolts and the glove box frame (C). 4. Remove the ECM/PCM. 5. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the blower motor, the power transistor, and the recirculation control motor, then remove the wire harness clips (B). Page 2409 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Page 2589 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Service and Repair IAT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the IAT sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the IAT sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 7980 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 4244 Pressure Plate: Service and Repair Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc Installation Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate Installation 1. Temporarily install the clutch disc onto the splines of the transmission mainshaft. Make sure the clutch disc slides freely on the mainshaft. 2. Install the ring gear holder. 3. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the splines (A) of the clutch disc (B), then install the clutch disc using the special tools. 4. Install the pressure plate (A) and the mounting bolts (B) finger-tight. 5. Torque the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the bolts in several steps to prevent warping the diaphragm spring. PRESSURE PLATE MOUNTING BOLT TORQUE: 25 Nm (2.6 kgf-cm, 19 ft. lbs.) 6. Remove the special tools. 7. Make sure the diaphragm spring fingers are all the same height. Page 5707 81. Apply power steering grease to the sliding surface and circumference of the rack guide (A), and install it into the gearbox housing. Wipe the grease off the threaded section of the housing. 82. Install the spring (B). Apply sealant to the middle of the threads on the rack guide screw (C), then install and tighten it to 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft. lbs.). Loosely install the locknut (D). 83. Center the steering rack within its stroke, and align the slider guide (B) with the holes (C) in boot A. Fit the slider guide to boot A by pressing around the edges of the holes securely. 84. Before installing the bracket (D), clean the mating surface of the 12 mm flange bolts (E) and bracket. Coat the new O-rings (F) with power steering grease, and install them on the 12 mm flange bolts. 85. Loosely install the bracket on the steering rack by tightening the 12 mm flange bolts to 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft. lbs.). 86. Hold the gearbox housing using a C-clamp, then install the special tool on the lock screw (A). Retighten the lock screw to specified torque values. Remove the special tool. Page 2419 Oxygen Sensor: Diagrams 112. A/F Sensor 123. Secondary HO2S Page 7001 2. Inspect the run channel for damage. ^ If it is damaged, replace it, then recheck the noise level. ^ If the run channel is not damaged, go to step 3. 3. Remove the door panel. 4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for excessive resistance. ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 5. ^ If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 6. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. ^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required. ^ If the window noise symptoms are still present, go to step 6. 6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it and adjust as needed. Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Interior - Rear Hatch Trim Panel Loose/Falls OFF Trim Panel: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Rear Hatch Trim Panel Loose/Falls OFF 03-050 August 26, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Element - ALL Rear Hatch Trim Panel Is Loose or Falls Off SYMPTOM The rear hatch trim panel is loose or falls off. PROBABLE CAUSE The retaining clips do not have enough grip. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the three upper clips on the panel with new clips. PARTS INFORMATION Pillar Clip Trim (3 required): P/N 91560-884-A11, H/C 5454970 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 857108 Flat Rate Time: 0.2 hour Failed Part: P/N 91560-584-A01 H/C 5454962 Defect Code: 011 Contention Code: A02 Template ID: 03-050A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration and get a decision before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Open the hatch then remove the screw clip and the pull pocket (see page 20-63 of the 2003 Element Service Manual). 2. Remove the trim panel assembly by pulling down from one side to the other making sure you do not damage the panel or the clips. Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Tailgate Lock Cylinder: Customer Interest Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Fuel Door Lock Cylinder: Customer Interest Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Page 2095 Disclaimer Page 6266 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 5885 Wheel Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins Wheel Bearing - Correct Installation To Prevent DTC's SOURCE: Honda Service News February 2003 TITLE: Install Wheel Bearings Correctly to Prevent DTCs APPLIES TO: 2003 Accord, 2002-03 CR-V, 2003 Element SERVICE TIP: When you replace a wheel bearing in a make sure you install it correctly. If you don't, these ABS DTCs can set: - ABS DTC 12, 14, 16, 18 [wheel sensor (electrical noise/intermittent interruption)] - ABS DTC 21, 22, 23, 24 (magnetic encoder) The brown dust shield for the wheel bearing also doubles as a magnetic encoder for the ABS. Before you install the wheel bearing, make sure the encoder is clean and free of metallic particles, then install it so the encoder is toward the inside of the knuckle. Install the encoder carefully so you don't damage its surface. Page 8451 Horn Component Location Index Page 3579 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Check for continuity between O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 while pushing the O/D switch toggle. The O/D switch terminals continuity is toggled by pushing the O/D switch ON and OFF. 13. If the O/D switch works properly, connect the connector and install the removed parts. If the switch is faulty, go to step 14, and replace the switch. 14. Remove the shift lever assembly. 15. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 16. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 17. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Service and Repair Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Power Steering Hoses, Lines, and Pressure Switch Replacement Note these items during installation: ^ Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from the hose end as shown. ^ Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new ones if necessary. ^ Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the reservoir and check for leaks. Page 7899 ^ If the run channel is visibly damaged, replace it, then recheck the window speed. ^ If the run channel looks OK, go to step 3. 3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through its range of travel and check for excessive resistance: ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 4. If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 5. 4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed. ^ If the run channel is not pinched, go to step 5. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. SYMPTOM 3 During operation, the window squeaks, creaks, clunks, or clicks. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Compare the window's noise level to another like vehicle: ^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal characteristic. ^ If the noise is different from the other vehicle, go to step 2. Page 2662 Engine Control Module: Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 7571 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Page 224 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 4503 16. Set the windshield in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A) across the windshield and body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. 17. Remove the windshield. 18. With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer around the edge of the windshield (A) between the side rubber dam (B), lower rubber dam (C), and molding (D) as shown, then lightly wipe-it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply glass primer to the molding. - Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not get body and glass primer sponges mixed up. - Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the windshield is installed. - Keep water, dust,and abrasive materials away from the primed surface. Page 8266 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 384 Power Windows Component Location Index Page 7271 2. Remove the clips, then remove the rear floor covering (A). 3. Install the floor covering in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Take care not to damage, wrinkle or twist the floor covering. - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Blower (Heater) Motor Gets Hot and Blows A Fuse Blower Motor: Technical Service Bulletins Blower (Heater) Motor Gets Hot and Blows A Fuse SOURCE: Honda Service News November 2003 TITLE: Heater Blower Motor Gets Hot or Blows a Fuse APPLIES TO: 1990-04 Accords, 1992-04 Civics, 1997-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2000-04 Insights, 1995-04 Odysseys, 1996-02 Passports, 2003-04 Pilots, 1997-01 Preludes, and 2000-04 S2000s SERVICE TIP: A blocked cooling hose for the heater blower motor can cause the motor to overheat, draw more current, blow a fuse, or even melt its plastic impeller. Before you order a replacement blower motor, make sure the cooling hose isn't blocked. On some models, you'll find the cooling hose molded into the blower motor housing; on other models, it's a separate piece. Check the S/M for the vehicle you're working on to determine the actual location of the cooling hose. Page 2570 Compression Check: Testing and Inspection Engine Compression Inspection NOTE: After this inspection, you must select Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reset using the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) otherwise the ECM/PCM continues to stop the fuel injectors. 1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the Data Link Connector (DLC). 4. Select PGM-FI, select inspection, then select the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 5. Remove the four ignition coils. 6. Remove the four spark plugs. 7. Attach the compression gauge to the spark plug hole. 8. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression. Compression Pressure: Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi) 9. Measure the compression on the remaining cylinders. Maximum variation: Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi) 10. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the compression. - Damaged or worn valves and seats - Damaged cylinder head gasket - Damaged or worn piston rings - Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore 11. Select the ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF function. 12. Perform the Crankshaft Position (CKP) pattern clear/ CKP pattern learn procedure. 13. Perform the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. Page 5045 5. Connect the starter to the battery as shown, and confirm that the motor turns and keeps rotating. 6. If the electric current and motor speed meet the specifications when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly. Specifications: Electric current: 80 A or less Motor speed: 2,300 rpm or more Page 6410 2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (B) from the cable reel. Front Passenger's Airbag 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from dashboard wire harness B. Side Airbag 4. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner Page 2873 DTC P1586 thru P1678 Page 2375 128. Under Left Rear Of Vehicle Page 6626 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 99-04 Odyssey EX 1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system *2001-04 Odyssey EX models with factory- installed security system* *Transmitter Identification Page 3001 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair FTP Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the EVAP canister. 2. Remove the FTP sensor (A). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (B). Page 6374 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 5212 Fuse Block: Service and Repair Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash fuse/relay box (A). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal, and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presents. 7. Confirm that all systems work properly. Page 6320 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 8429 170. Hazard Warning Switch VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Testing and Inspection VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is sticking or is clogged replaced it; then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. Page 6375 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 8423 Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Component Location Index Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle Idle Speed: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 2036 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 141 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 1978 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 328 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 3611 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 2302 Oxygen Sensor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 6132 3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule: (a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed. (b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port using the quick coupler. (c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap, and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting. NOTE: The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the capsule. (d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight). NOTE: The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out. 4. Connect the NC service equipment: With the universal connect set and dye capsule attached to the vehicle's low-side service port, connect the A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's low-side hose quick coupler to the service valve fitting. Open the blue hand-wheel valves on both quick couplers. Leave the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set closed. NOTE: * ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.* ^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding. ^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being added to the vehicle's A/C system. 5. Inspect the A/C system for leaks: (a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible during this time to keep the dye circulating. (b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit. Locations Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations Page 3138 VTEC System - The VTEC system changes the cam profile to correspond to the engine speed. It maximizes torque at low engine speed and output at high engine speed. - The low lift cam is used at low engine speeds, and the high lift cam is used at high engine speeds. VTEC/VTC Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A This sensor detects camshaft angle position for the VTC system. Water Pump Replacement Water Pump: Service and Repair Water Pump Replacement Replacement 1. Remove the drive belt. 2. Drain the engine coolant. 3. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 4. Remove the six bolts securing the water pump, then remove the water pump (A). 5. Inspect and clean the O-ring groove and mating surface with the water passage. 6. Install the water pump with new O-rings in the reverse order of removal. 7. Clean up any spilled engine coolant. 8. Install the crankshaft pulley. 9. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Page 2979 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 4172 Standard (New): 8.6 - 9.2 mm (0.34 - 0.36 inch) Service Limit: 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) 10. Measure the rivet depth from the clutch disc lining surface (A) to the rivets (B) on both sides. If the rivet depth is less than the service limit, replace the clutch disc. Standard (New):1.65 - 2.25 mm (0.065 - 0.089 inch) Service Limit:0.7 mm (0.03 inch) Page 1741 Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for additional information. Engine Oil Honda Motor Oil: P/N 08798-9023 API Classification .................................................................................................................................... Make sure the label says "For Gasoline Engines". SAE Viscosity .............................................................................. ............................................................................................................................... 5W-20 Page 8532 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7478 1997-01 CR-V with dealer-installed security system 1996-97 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1996-98 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system *1999-04 Odyssey LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* 1996-01 Prelude with dealer-installed security system *2000-04 S2000 with dealer-installed security system 2000-04 Insight with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 3512 14. If the valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Page 520 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Evaporator Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the evaporator temperature sensor (B), then remove the connector clip (C). Turn the evaporator temperature sensor clockwise to the stop, and carefully pull it out. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 3095 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 1474 56. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.3 and ECM/PCM connector terminal E7. Is there continuity? YES - Test PGM-FI main relay 1. If the relay is OK, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and the ECM/PCM (E7). 57. Reconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 58. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 59. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminals A2 and A3 individually. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 66. NO - Go to step 60. 60. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 61. Remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (A). 62. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Page 2597 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 92. CMP Sensor A 93. CMP Sensor B Page 3977 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 7552 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. Testing and Inspection Voltage Signal: Testing and Inspection Alternator FR Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Monitor the ALTERNATOR in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 3. Check if the indicated percentage varies when the lighting switch is ON. Does the percentage vary? YES - The alternator signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 4. 4. Turn the lighting switch and ignition switch OFF. 5. Disconnect the alternator 4P connector. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 7. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A9 and 813. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Go to step 13. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P). 11. Connect alternator 4P connector terminal No.4 to body ground with a jumper wire. Page 5834 1. Install all the parts except the damper mounting washer and self-locking nut onto the damper unit by referring to the Exploded View. Align the bottom of the spring (A) and the stepped part of the lower spring seat (B), and align the damper mounting base as shown. 2. Install the damper assembly on a commercially available strut spring compressor (c). 3. Compress the damper spring with the strut spring compressor. 4. Install the washer (A) and a new self-locking nut (B) on the damper shaft. 5. Hold the damper shaft with a hex wrench (c), and tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque. Installation 1. Position the damper (A) assembly in the body. Note the direction of the damper mounting base so the indent mark on it is toward the inside of the vehicle. Page 8094 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 7316 6. If equipped, remove the roof console (A). 1. Remove the lens (B). 2. Remove the self-tapping screws. 3. Pull the console down, and slide it rearward to release the hooks (C). Take care not to damage the interior wire harness. 4. Disconnect the front individual map light connector (D). 7. If equipped with a skylight, remove the screws, and slide the glass latch handle trim (A) forward to release the hook (B), then remove the trim. Page 722 22. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. lithe symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G301. Page 8076 7. Reinstall the dashboard middle panel. 8. Reinstall the dashboard side lid. 9. If required by the Department of Motor Vehicles, fill out an odometer mileage disclosure sticker, and apply it to the driver's doorjamb. Disclaimer Page 4151 30. ATF Temperature Sensor (A/T) Page 4534 Standard: 50 Ohms - 25 k Ohms 9. If the resistance is out of standard, replace the shift solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not available separately from the shift solenoid harness. 10. Disconnect the connectors from the shift solenoid valves. 11. Connect the shift solenoid valve A connector (BLU wire) with the ATF temperature sensor (F) on the new solenoid harness. 12. Connect the solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the new O-ring (G) on the shift solenoid harness connector (H), and install the connector in the transmission housing. 14. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 15. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 16. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 17. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. 18. Remove the transmission jack. 19. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 2677 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 2872 DTC P1486 thru P1585 Page 3296 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required - Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A - Fuel pressure gauge set 07ZAJ-S5A0100 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 330 - 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 55 psi). - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then recheck the fuel pressure. Page 4390 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Diagrams Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Electric Load Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 5710 97. Bend the lock washer against the flat spots on the bracket with a large pair of pliers. 98. Install the cylinder lines (A) and return line joint (B). Note these items during reassembly: ^ Thoroughly clean the joints of the cylinder lines. The joints must be free of foreign material. ^ Install the cylinder lines by tightening the flare nuts by hand first, then tighten the flare nuts to the specified torque. 99. Adjust the rack guide screw. After adjusting, check that the rack moves smoothly by sliding it right and left. Page 4356 Countershaft Sensor: Service and Repair Countershaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the countershaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the countershaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the countershaft speed sensor, and install the countershaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Page 5139 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Locations Low Beam Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 8216 9. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 10. Check that the needle of the fuel gauge indicates "F". - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F", replace the gauge. - If the pointer points to "F", the fuel gauge is OK; is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit: Go to step 12. NOTE: The needle of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is OFF, regardless of the fuel level. 11. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank. 12. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals of the fuel gauge sending unit with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the shown readings, replace the sending unit. NOTE: Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge to indicate the correct fuel level. Page 5258 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 799 160. Right Side Of Floor (Left Sim.) (EX: Side Airbag) Page 2703 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 1 Locations Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 3729 ^ Updating with the HIM - HIM Updating in Pass-Thru Mode - HIM Updating in Storage Mode - Diagnosing HIM Error Codes - HIM Self-Test NOTE: Whenever you install a new, reprogrammable control unit/module, check that it has the latest software, and update it if needed. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Skill Level: Repair Technician Refer to the specific service bulletin for the symptom you are repairing. QUESTIONS ABOUT THE UPDATING EQUIPMENT OR THE INTERACTIVE NETWORK For questions about the Honda-supplied updating equipment, call American Honda's Special Tools hotline. For questions about the iN, call the iN Support Center. REQUIRED TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NOTE: Updating for most control units/modules can be done with any of the following tools. Page 3766 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B, and C Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors. 3. Remove the mounting bolts, harness clamp brackets (A), and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 4. Remove the ATF joint pipes (D), O-rings (E), and gasket (F). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and harness clamp brackets. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect them securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 952 Shift Interlock Switch: Service and Repair Park Pin Switch Replacement 1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A). 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the park pin switch with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No.2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 12. Install the shift lever assembly. Component Locations Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 7107 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 1418 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 7306 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 8022 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 1572 VTEC System - The VTEC system changes the cam profile to correspond to the engine speed. It maximizes torque at low engine speed and output at high engine speed. - The low lift cam is used at low engine speeds, and the high lift cam is used at high engine speeds. VTEC/VTC Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A This sensor detects camshaft angle position for the VTC system. Locations PGI-FI System - Component Location Index Page 4036 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 5404 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 3743 NOTE: To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update. 14. When the No.1 LED stays on and the No.2 LED goes off, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the No.1 and No.2 LEDs stay on, the control unit/module is updated. 16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the DLC cable from the vehicle. To do the same update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps 11 thru 16. UPDATING WITH THE HDS TABLET AND THE HDS POCKET TESTER NOTE: This procedure explains how to update with the HDS tablet. Updating with the HDS pocket tester is similar, but the user interface is modified to fit its smaller screen. 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC sofiware onto your HDS tablet or HDS pocket tester. Refer to the instructions included with the HDS Installation Disc. NOTE: If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. On the HDS Switchboard screen, click on the CM update icon. Page 8384 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Interior - Vinyl Seat Cleaning Precautions Seat Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Vinyl Seat Cleaning Precautions Avoid Aftermarket Cleaners on Element Vinyl Seats The chemicals used in some aftermarket vinyl cleaners and protectants can leave vinyl seats in Elements prone to cracking. These chemicals loosen the PVC material's molecular bond, making it sofier and less durable. This action, combined with wear from heavy seat usage, can cause the material to crack. If you've got a service customer that insists on using a vinyl protectant, we strongly suggest Honda Vinyl/Leather Protectant (P/N 08740-PC008, H/C 2140523). This silicone and water-based product shields against damage caused by water, weather, and most spills. It renews vinyl and leather for a long-lasting shine. It's also great for dashboards and tires. Page 13 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Page 1063 Alignment: By Symptom Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502 Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Front Suspension Page 5958 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 1074 TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03602 Skill Level: Repair Technician Diagnostic Trouble Code: To create the 15-digit DTC, see the applicable repair procedure. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. TOOL DESCRIPTIONS The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as one weight, plus five removable weights. Page 6620 1991-93 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry or dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter The transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code number. The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car. Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and glove compartment lock. To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery is not replaceable. 91-93 Accord 5-Door LX 1991-93 Accord 5-door LX with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address: Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90501-5745 Page 7656 Failed Part: P/N 81526-S9A-J01 H/C 6904593 Defect Code: 07407 Symptom Code: 04205 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Push in on the upper middle of the front seat, then push in on both upper side bolsters. Do this for both front seats. If you hear any noise, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE to repair the noisy seat. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before you do this service bulletin. ^ On models with side airbags, you must disconnect the battery (as noted in step 2). However, on models without side airbags, you do not need to disconnect the battery. 1. With side airbags: Write down the customer's audio presets, and make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio. 2. With side airbags: Disconnect and isolate the negative cable from the battery, and wait for 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Cut four strips of wool felt: ^ Two 40 x 120 mm strips ^ Two 10 x 30 mm strips 4. Remove the driver's seat armrest (if applicable): ^ For 2003 models: Refer to page 20-90 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual; ^ For 2004-05 models: Refer to page 20-91 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual, or Page 2565 Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection Spark Plug Inspection 1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator. Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by: Advanced ignition timing - Loose spark plug - Plug heat range too hot - Insufficient cooling Fouled plug may be caused by: Retarded ignition timing - Oil in combustion chamber - Incorrect spark plug gap - Plug heat range too cold - Excessive idling/low speed running - Clogged air cleaner element - Deteriorated ignition coils 2. Do not adjust the gap (A) of iridium tip plugs; replace the spark plug if the gap is out of specification. Page 7507 Doors - Component Location Index - Front Door Part 2 Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 3566 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 1. 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) 2. 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) Page 168 Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 2017 ^ Online, enter keyword RADIATOR, select Radiator and Fan Replacement from the list, and do steps 2 thru 9. 2. Replace the heater core: ^ Refer to page 21-43 in the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords HEATER UNIT, and select Heater Unit/Core Replacement from the list. 3. Replace the water bypass (RACV) inlet and outlet hoses and the heater breather hose. 4. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator, then install the radiator cap. 5. Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 6. Shut the engine off, and open the radiator petcock one turn. 7. Monitor the cooling system pressure by lightly squeezing the upper radiator hose. Once the hose walls touch, remove the radiator cap and fully open the petcock. After the coolant is completely drained, tighten the petcock. 8. Add about 1.5 gallons of coolant to the radiator. 9. Start the engine, top off the coolant in the radiator if needed, then reinstall the radiator cap. 10. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes. 11. Repeat steps 6 thru 10 two more times to remove any remaining contamination from the cooling system. 12. Tighten the radiator cap, then run the engine again and check for leaks. 13. Operate the heater, and make sure that warm air is coming from the vents. 14. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. Page 1408 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 5740 6. Apply grease to the ball joint remover on the areas shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads. 7. Loosen the pressure bolt, and install the ball joint remover as shown. Insert the jaws carefully, making sure not to damage the the ball joint boot. Adjust the jaw spacing by turning the adjusting bolt. NOTE: Fasten the safety chain securely to a suspension arm or the subframe. Do not fasten it to a brake line or a wire harness. 8. After adjusting the adjusting bolt, make sure the head of the adjusting bolt is in the position shown to allow the jaw to pivot. 9. Using a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint pin pops loose from the ball joint connecting hole. If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint pin. NOTE: Do not use pneumatic or electric tools on the pressure bolt. 10. Remove the ball joint remover, then remove the hex nut or the ball joint thread protector from the end of the ball joint pin, and pull the ball joint out of the ball joint connecting hole. Inspect the ball joint boot, and replace it if damaged. Page 2901 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 8294 Brake Light Switch: Testing and Inspection Brake Pedal Position Switch Test 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the brake pedal position switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be continuity when the brake pedal is pressed. - There should be no continuity when the brake pedal is released. 4. Check for continuity between No. 3 and No. 4 terminals (with cruise control). - There should be no continuity when the brake pedal is pressed. - There should be continuity when the brake pedal is released. 5. If necessary, adjust the pedal height or replace the switch. Page 2258 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 7544 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 8104 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 8013 Page 6603 6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work repeat steps 2 thru 7. 9. If you have another transmitter to program, repeat steps 2 thru 7. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Passport With Factory-Installed Security System 1998-02 Passport with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter To program the transmitters, use one of these two procedures: ^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed. ^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters. Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Procedure Two (adds transmitters) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 7614 Sunroof / Moonroof Handle Assembly: Service and Repair Glass Latch Bracket Glass Latch Bracket Replacement 1. Remove these items: - Skylight - Rear roof trim - Roof trim - Glass latch handle trim 2. Pull down the headliner as necessary. Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it. 3. Remove the screws (A, B), then remove the latch bracket (C). 4. Install the bracket in the reverse order of removal, and make sure the guide projection (D) is installed into the elongated hole (E) properly. Page 7828 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 2808 ^ If DTC P2A00 (P2900) is stored, go to step 2. ^ If another DTC is stored, go to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure in the appropriate service manual. 2. Replace the air fuel ratio sensor (for Accords, see the 2003 Accord Service Manual, page 11-168; for Elements, see the 2003 Element Service Manual, page 11-147). 3. Clear the DTC with the HDS or the PGM Tester. Disclaimer Page 3732 HDS Tablet: HDS Pocket Tester: Page 3642 30. ATF Temperature Sensor (A/T) Page 1963 Water Pump: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Remove the drive belt. 2. Turn the water pump pulley counterclockwise. Check that it turns freely. 3. Check for signs of seal leakage. A small amount of "weeping" from the bleed holes (A) is normal. Page 4863 7. Remove the flange bolts (A) and parking brake cable (B) from the backing plate (C). 8. Reinstall the parking brake cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. Be careful not to bend or distort the cable. Tighten adjusting nut in the equalizer until there is tension in the wires. Apply hand brake lever full stroke and release 10 times. Do the major parking brake adjustment. Page 7816 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 8640 Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Daytime Running Lights Control Unit Input Test - Canada 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the daytime running lights control unit(B). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Testing and Inspection Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Brake Booster Test Functional Test 1. With the engine stopped, press the brake pedal several times to deplete the vacuum reservoir, then press the pedal hard, and hold it for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, either the master cylinder is bypassing internally, or the brake system (master cylinder, lines, modulator, or caliper) is leaking. 2. Start the engine with the brake pedal pressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is operating normally. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or check valve is faulty. 3. With the engine running, press the brake pedal lightly and shift the transmission to the position. Apply just enough pressure to hold back automatic transmission creep. If the brake pedal sinks more than 10 mm (3/8 inch) in 3 minutes, the master cylinder is faulty. A slight change in pedal height when the A/C compressor cycles on and off is normal. (The A/C compressor load changes the vacuum available to the booster.) Leak Test 1. Press the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while pressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty. 2. Turn the engine off, and wait 30 seconds. Press the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve. 3. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose (check valve built-in) (A) at the booster side. 4. Start the engine, and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not working properly. Replace the brake booster vacuum hose and check valve, and retest. 5. Start the engine, and then pinch the brake booster vacuum hose between the check valve and the booster. 6. Turn the engine off, and wait 30 seconds. Press the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, replace the brake booster. If the pedal position varies, replace the brake booster vacuum hose/check valve assembly. Page 6849 Trailer Lamps: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 118-0 Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 6078 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 4071 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 707 126. Under Middle Of Vehicle Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor The A/F Sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F Sensor is installed upstream of the TWC, and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. Page 4562 28. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 29. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 30. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 31. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 32. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 8582 Map Light: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 114-2 Page 5704 66. Coat the inside and outside surfaces of the new cylinder end seal (A) with power steering fluid. 67. Install the cylinder end seal onto the steering rack (B) with its grooved side (C) toward the piston. Push in the cylinder end seal with your finger. 68. Place the backup ring (D) on the cylinder end seal with its flat side facing upward. Then drive the backup ring in with the appropriate size socket wrench until the its surface is below the internal snap ring groove (E). Install the snap ring (F) in the groove. 69. Install the new lock screw (A) on the cylinder. 70. Install the new stop ring (B) in the groove (C) on the cylinder by expanding it with snap ring pliers. Be careful not to scratch or damage on the cylinder surface with the stop ring edges. 71. Coat the housing surface with multipurpose grease as shown. Page 5692 6. Remove the stop washer (A), the 12 mm flange bolts (B), O-rings (C), and bracket (D) from the steering gearbox. 7. Remove the boot guard (A) by removing the 8 mm flange bolt (C) on the rack end. 8. Remove the boot band (D) and clip (E). Pull the boot B away from the end of the steering gearbox. Remove the rack end plug (F). 9. Loosen the locknut (A), then remove the rack guide screw (B), spring (C), and rack guide (D) from the steering gearbox. 10. Remove the internal snap ring (A) and backup ring (B) from the cylinder housing. Page 7277 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Diagram Information and Instructions Trailer Lamps: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 1370 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 1832 Page 56 Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type B: Blower Motor Relay Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 2775 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 2885 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 152 Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 5638 17. Attach a hose (A) to the end of the pressure control valve (B) as shown. Then submerge the pressure control valve in a container of power steering fluid or solvent (C), and blow in the hose. ^ If air bubbles leak through the valve at less than 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14.2 psi), replace the pump as an assembly. The pressure control valve is not available separately. ^ If the pressure control valve is OK, set it aside for reassembly later. 18. Inspect the ball bearing by rotating the outer race slowly. If you feel any play (axial or radial) or roughness, remove the faulty ball bearing (A), and install a new one (B). 19. Inspect each part shown with an asterisk in the Exploded View; if any of them are worn or damaged, replace the pump as an assembly. Reassembly 20. Install the new pump seal (A) (with its grooved side facing in) into the pump housing (B) by hand first, then drive it in using the special tools until there is no step at the top of the pump seal, and the seal is fully seated in the pump housing. 21. Position the pump drive shaft (A) in the pump housing, then press it in with the appropriate size socket wrench (B) as shown. Do not apply more than 1,370 N (140 kgf, 308 lbs) of pressure. 22. Install the 40 mm internal snap ring (c) with its radiuses edge facing out. Page 6010 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 5323 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 6111 Disclaimer Page 6666 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 1359 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 5269 134. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) 135. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 597 170. Hazard Warning Switch Page 1714 7. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. In the final step tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft. lbs.). 8. Install the dipstick (A) and breather hose (B). 9. Tighten the bolt (C) securing the power steering hose bracket. 10. Tighten the two bolts (D) securing the vacuum line. 11. Install the four ignition coils. 12. Check that all tubes, hoses, and connectors are installed correctly. 13. Install the intake manifold cover. 14. After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil. Page 8537 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 5553 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 249 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Part 2 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Page 1847 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 3522 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Connect the battery positive terminal to O/D switch/ shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 3, and connect the battery negative terminal to connector terminal No. 4. Do not connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal No. 4 or you will damage the diode inside the solenoid. 13. Check that the shift lever can be moved from the P position. Release the battery terminals, move the shift lever back to the P, and make sure it locks. 14. If the shift lock solenoid works properly, connect the connector, and install the removed parts. If the shift lock solenoid is faulty, go to step 15, and replace the shift lock solenoid. 15. Remove the shift lever assembly. Page 6396 Page 8358 Wire Color Codes Page 6830 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Tailgate Latch Switch Test Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Tailgate Latch Switch Test Tailgate Latch Switch Test 1. Open the tailgate and remove the tailgate trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the each tailgate latch switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the each tailgate latch switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the tailgate open. - There should be no continuity with the tailgate closed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 6593 1997 Accord SE With Factory-Installed Security System 1997 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Accord EX & 00-02 Accord SE 1998-02 Accord EX with factory-installed security system 2000 and 2002 Accord SE with factory-installed security system Page 6612 Page 4632 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 3630 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Page 3007 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Service and Repair IAT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the IAT sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the IAT sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Engine Controls - DTC P0171 Set Absolute Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P0171 Set SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Got a DTC P0171? Check the Short-Term Fuel Trim APPLIES TO: 03-04 Accord 01-04 Civic 02-04 CR-V 03-04 Element 02-04 Odyssey 03-04 Pilot SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop that purrs like a kitten but it sets a DTC P0171 (fuel system too lean)? Check the short-term fuel trim (ST FUEL TRIM B1). If the value reads higher than 1.05, then check the MAP SENSOR value with the engine turned off and the ignition switch turned to ON (II). - If the MAP SENSOR and BARO SENSOR values match, the MAP sensor is working OK. Do the normal troubleshooting for DTC P0171. - If the MAP SENSOR and BARO SENSOR values don't match, install a known-good MAP sensor, and retest. If the sensor values now match, clear the DTC, and make sure the ST FUEL TRIM B1 value is normal (it reads about 1.0). Page 1539 Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index Page 6505 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Page 6885 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 1143 Ignition Timing: Testing and Inspection Ignition Timing Inspection 1. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC), and check for DTC's. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair the cause before inspecting the ignition timing. 2. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 3. Check the idle speed. 4. Follow the tester's prompts to get the tester in the "SCS" mode (see the operator's manual). 5. Free the service loop from the wire harness, then connect the timing light to the service loop. 6. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under no load condition: headlights, blower fan, rear window defogger, and air conditioner are not operating. 7. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, update the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the system work properly, and the ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM. 8. Disconnect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS and the timing light. 9. Secure the service loop to the wire harness with wire ties. Page 6740 72. Speaker, Right Rear Door 78. Tweeter, Left (EX) 79. Tweeter, Right (EX) Page 8383 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 6283 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 1573 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Testing and Inspection VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is stuck or clogged, replace it, then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1 Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.) If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step?. Page 320 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Page 5202 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 7927 Part 2 3. With the 12P connector disconnected, make these input tests. - If test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the cruise control actuator may be faulty. Substitute a known-good cruise control actuator and retest. If the system works properly, replace the original cruise control actuator. Diagnostic Aids Fuse: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 1067 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 4097 Shifter A/T: Service and Repair Shift Lever Bracket Assembly Replacement Shift Lever Bracket Assembly Replacement 1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 3. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 4. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Page 3139 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Testing and Inspection VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is stuck or clogged, replace it, then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1 Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.) If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step?. Page 1980 Page 1445 134. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) 135. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 6883 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 8567 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7807 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Page 4510 16. Set the windshield in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A) across the windshield and body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. 17. Remove the windshield. 18. With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer around the edge of the windshield (A) between the side rubber dam (B), lower rubber dam (C), and molding (D) as shown, then lightly wipe-it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply glass primer to the molding. - Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not get body and glass primer sponges mixed up. - Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the windshield is installed. - Keep water, dust,and abrasive materials away from the primed surface. Front Door Hook Pin and Catch Replacement Front Door Striker: Service and Repair Front Door Hook Pin and Catch Replacement Front Door Hook Pin and Catch Replacement 1. With a T40 Torx bit, remove the door hook pin (A) from the front door. 2. With a T40 Torx bit, remove the bolts, then remove the catch (A) from the rear door. 3. Install the hook pin and catch in the reverse order of removal, and apply liquid thread lock to the threads of the door hook pin. 4. Apply touch-up paint to the catch mounting bolts and around the catch. Page 3810 8. Install the new O-rings (two O-rings per a solenoid valve) (F) on the good solenoid valve. The replacement solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. 9. Install shift solenoid valves A, C, and E by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valves until their mounting bolt brackets contact the servo body. NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve B before installing shift solenoid valve E. If solenoid valve B is installed before solenoid valve E, it may damage the hydraulic control system. 10. Install shift solenoid valve B by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install the solenoid valve until its mounting bolt bracket contacts the bracket of installed solenoid. 11. Connect shift solenoid valve A connector (G) with the ATF temperature sensor. 12. Connect solenoid valve B connector (ORN wire), solenoid valve C connector (GRN wire), and solenoid valve E connector (RED wire). 13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover with the new gasket and dowel pins. 14. Install the ATF cooler inlet line with the line bolt and the new sealing washers. Create clearance with the jack between the transmission and the front subframe to tighten the line bolt with the torque wrench. 15. Install the bracket of the ATF cooler inlet line on the shift solenoid valve cover with the bolt. 16. Remove the transmission jack. 17. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid. Page 4634 Page 1449 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 1046 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 4890 199. ABS Modulator-Control Unit (EX) Service and Repair Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Power Steering Hoses, Lines, and Pressure Switch Replacement Note these items during installation: ^ Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from the hose end as shown. ^ Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new ones if necessary. ^ Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the reservoir and check for leaks. Page 4558 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 3389 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 1994 Coolant: Testing and Inspection Check 1. Look at the coolant level in the reserve tank. Make sure it is between the MAX mark (A) and MIN mark (B). 2. If the coolant level in the reserve tank is at or below the MIN mark, add coolant to bring it up to the MAX mark, and inspect the cooling system for leaks. Page 6355 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Door, Roof And Seat Diagnostic Aids Fuse: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 6196 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to the impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit, respectively, will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: Seat Belt Tensioners and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners 1. A front impact sensor must activate and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the tensioners. 3. The charges must ignite and deploy the tensioners. Driver's and Front Passenger's Airbag(s) 1. A front impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals, and depending on the severity of the collision and whether the seat belt buckle switch is ON or OFF, it sends the appropriate signals to the airbag inflator(s). 3. The inflators that received signals must ignite and deploy the airbags. Side Airbag(s) 1. Aside impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the side airbag inflator(s). However, the microprocessor turns off the signals to the front passenger's side airbag if the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger's head is in the deployment path of the side airbag. 3. The inflator that received the signal must ignite and deploy the side airbag. Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the system is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after 6 seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the system. The system must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the SRS unit memory stores a DTC that relates to the cause of the malfunction, and the unit is connected to the data link circuit. This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS when it is connected to the data link connector (DLC). NOTE: If the battery negative cable is disconnected during troubleshooting, do the following: Before you disconnect the battery: Page 2257 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 6069 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Locations Page 1431 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 3509 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Diagrams 25. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A 26. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B 27. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Service and Repair Rear Door Exterior Handle: Service and Repair Rear Door Handle Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover, as necessary 2. Disconnect the cancel rod (A) from the rear door latch synchronizer (B). 3. Remove the screws, then pull the rear door handle (A) out. Disconnect the handle rod (B), then remove the handle. 4. Install the handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure each rod is connected securely. - Make sure the door locks and opens properly. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 1646 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2608 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire. Page 5871 5. Lower the vehicle onto the stands. Page 6838 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 3700 the HIM from the vehicle. 7. Connect the PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the HIM. Connect the power supply unit and power supply cord to the HIM. After several seconds, the green and yellow LEDs flash. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. NOTE: Update the systems one at a time. 8. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark. 9. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update software loads the program file onto the HIM. 10. Disconnect the HIM from the PC interface cable. 11. Reconnect the HIM to the vehicle's DLC. 12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Press and release the ENTER button on the HIM. Page 495 Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair Master Switch Test/Replacement Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Release the clips of the switch and push the switch (A) out of the panel, then disconnect the 5P connector (B) from the master switch. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If there is no continuity, replace illumination bulbs (C) or the switch. Front Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Specifications Front TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS Damper Shaft Nut ................................................................................................................................ ............................... 44 N.m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 lbf-ft) Upper Flange Nut ................................................... .............................................................................................................................. 44 N.m (33 ft.lbs.) Brake Hose Bracket Bolt ..................................................................................................................................................... 22 N.m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft) Wheel Sensor Bracket ....................................................................................................................................................... 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 lbf-ft) Damper Pinch Bolt ......................................................................................................................................................... 157 N.m (16.0 kgf-m, 116 ft-lb) Tie-rod to Steer Arm Nut .................................................................................................................................................... 43 N.m (4.4 kgf-m, 32 lbf-ft) Page 8440 Headlamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 8011 Wire Color Codes Page 7753 Doors - Component Location Index - Front Door Part 1 Locations Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 850 136. Under Left Side Of Dash (M/T) Page 5705 72. Set the new boot bands (B) on the band installation grooves of boot A by aligning the tabs (C) with the holes (D) of the band. Do not close the ear portion of the boot band yet. 73. Compress boot A by hand, and apply vinyl tape (E) to the bellows so the boots stay collapsed and pulled back. Slide boot A over the cylinder so the smaller diameter end of the boot faces the gearbox housing. 74. Apply power steering grease to the sliding surface of the slider guide (A). Keep grease off of the rack-to-slider guide matching surfaces and the boot-to-slider guide matching surfaces. Slide the steering rack all the way to left, and place the slider guide on the steering rack by aligning the bolt holes (B). 75. Hold the gearbox housing using a C-clamp (A) and the wooden block (B) as shown. Page 7061 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 2891 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Locations Horn Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 1235 Page 7077 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Locations Knock Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 17. Front Of Engine (Intake Removed) Page 1427 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 1225 Page 4784 5. Remove and discard the lower pad retainer clip. Install the new lower pad retainer clip. 6. Apply Dow Corning Molykote M77 Assembly Paste to the areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe off any excess paste. Do not get any paste on the disc or pad surfaces. 7. Install the brake pads in their original positions and reinstall all removed parts. 8. Repeat steps 2 thru 7 for the other front caliper. 9. Install the front wheels. Torque the wheel nuts to 108 Nm (80 lb-ft). Disclaimer Page 6869 Trailer Connector: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 3121 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Gas Tank - Fuel Pump/Sending Unit Installation Tip SOURCE: Honda Service News March 2003 TITLE: Installing an In-Tank Fuel Pump/Sending Unit? Don't Forget a New Base Gasket, Locknut, and Fuel Line Retainers APPLIES TO: See Models Listed In Illustration SERVICE TIP: Whenever you install an in-tank fuel pump/sending unit into a plastic fuel tank, the S/M tells you to install a new base gasket. But did you know you also need to replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers as well? Make a note in the Fuel Supply System subsection of the appropriate S/Ms to also replace the locknut and the fuel line retainers. Then follow this handy chart to order the appropriate parts. Install the new gasket on the fuel tank side, not on the fuel pump/sending unit side; this ensures that the gasket doesn't get pinched or rolled. If you don't install the fuel pump/sending unit correctly, the MIL could come on with an EVAP control system leakage DTC set. The gasket and the locknut are currently available in Honda parts stock under separate part numbers. But soon, they'll be packaged under a single part number. The fuel sending unit, gasket, and locknut will also be packaged together under a single part number. The gasket and the locknut will then be discontinued as separate part numbers. Locations Page 5078 Wire Color Codes Page 7206 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 6231 Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Initializing the OPDS Unit Initializing the OPDS (Occupant Position Detection System) Unit with HDS When a seat-back cover, seat-back cushion, and/or OPDS unit is replaced, initialize the OPDS by following the procedure. NOTE: A new (uninitialized) OPDS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 15-1. 1. Erase the DTC memory (see "Erasing the DTC Memory"). 2. Make sure the front passenger's seat is dry. Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 3. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 6. From the HDS Main Menu, select SRS, Misc Test, and Adjustments. Then select OPDS INIT to initialize the OPDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. NOTE: If the OPDS system fails to initialize after several attempts, replace the OPDS sensor and retry. If the OPDS system continues to fail to initialize, replace the OPDS unit. Initializing the OPDS (Occupant Position Detection System) Unit with Manual Mode Special Tools Required SCS service connector 07PAZ-0010100 When a seat-back cover, seat-back cushion, and/or OPDS unit is replaced, initialize the OPDS by following the procedure. NOTE: A new (uninitialized) OPDS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 15-1. 1. Erase the DTC memory (see "Erasing the DTC Memory"). 2. Make sure the front passenger's seat is dry. Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 3. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 5. From the HDS Main Menu, select SRS. In the PROGRAM MENU of the HDS, select SCS. Page 2105 Disclaimer Page 6219 1. Place the new front passenger's airbag (A) into the dashboard. Tighten the mounting nuts (B) and screws (C). 2. Reinstall the dashboard tray cover and the passenger's dashboard middle panel and passenger's tray cover. 3. Connect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) to dashboard wire harness. 4. Reinstall the glove box. 5. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 6. After installing the airbag, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 2465 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM/PCM. The TP sensor is not available separately from the throttle body. Page 2342 91. CKP Sensor Component Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 7928 Cruise Control Servo: Service and Repair Cruise Control Actuator/Cable Replacement 1. Loosen the locknut (A), then remove the actuator cable (B) from the throttle linkage. 2. Turn the connector to disconnect it from the actuator, then remove the cable from the actuator. 3. Disconnect the 12P connector (A) from the cruise control actuator (B). 4. Remove the two mounting bolts from the mounting bracket. 5. Remove the three mounting bolts attaching the cruise control actuator to the mounting bracket. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal, and adjust the free play at the throttle linkage after connecting the actuator cable. Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Computers/Controls Updating Control Units And Modules 01-023 April 10, 2010 Applies To: Honda Vehicles With Programmable Control Units/Modules Updating Control Units/Modules (Supersedes 01-023, dated May 15, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) REVISION SUMMARY *^Under REQUIRED TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT, the MVCI was added. ^ Under UPDATING TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS MVCI information was added. ^ UPDATING WITH THE MVCI was added.* The procedures in this service bulletin are used and referenced in other service bulletins. Most 2002 and later Hondas have reprogrammable control units/modules. To update (reprogram) any of these control units/modules, you need the vehicle you're working on and one of these systems: *^MVCI unit with latest control module (CM) update software installed* ^ GNA600 gateway device and an iN workstation with the latest HDS software installed ^ HDS Tablet with the latest HDS software installed ^ HDS Pocket Tester with the latest HDS software installed ^ HIM and an iN workstation with the latest HDS software installed ^ A compatible J2534 device and a PC with Honda's J2534 software installed This service bulletin describes these subjects: ^ Who to contact for questions or problems when using Honda-supplied updating equipment or the iN. ^ Required Tools and Equipment - MVCI - GNA600 - HDS Tablet - HDS Pocket Tester - HIM ^ Updating Tips and Precautions ^ Updating with the MVCI ^ Updating with the GNA600 - GNA6OO Updating in Pass-Thru Mode - GNA6OO Updating in Storage Mode ^ Updating with the HDS Tablet and the HDS Pocket Tester Page 7263 Grille: Service and Repair Front Grille Cover Replacement Exterior Trim Front Grille Cover Replacement 1. Remove the clips, and release the hooks (A), then remove the front grille cover (B). Take care not to scratch the front bumper. 2. Install the grille cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the hook portions and clips into place securely. Page 3614 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 6497 VEHICLES AFFECTED CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles were mailed a notification of this warranty extension. A example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the vehicle as indicated by the INSPECTION PROCEDURE. If needed, replace the OPDS unit. In rare cases where an updated OPDS unit was already installed, replace the OPDS sensor. Page 3861 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Check for continuity between O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 while pushing the O/D switch toggle. The O/D switch terminals continuity is toggled by pushing the O/D switch ON and OFF. 13. If the O/D switch works properly, connect the connector and install the removed parts. If the switch is faulty, go to step 14, and replace the switch. 14. Remove the shift lever assembly. 15. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 16. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 17. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Page 3833 Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair ATF Replacement ATF Replacement NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission. 1. Bring the transmission up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on) by driving the vehicle. 2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). NOTE: If a cooler cleaner is to be used, refer to ATF cooler cleaning. 4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 5. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid amount through the dipstick hole until the level reaches the upper mark on the dipstick. Always use Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality. Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity: 4WD: 3.1 L (3.3 US qt) at change 7.2 L (7.6 US qt) at overhaul 2WD: 3.2 L (3.4 US qt) at change 6.8 L 17.2 US qt) at overhaul 6. Insert the dipstick (A) back into the transmission with the handle pointing toward the breather pipe (B). Page 246 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) Part 2 Page 8234 Shift Indicator: Service and Repair A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness Replacement 1. Remove the shift fever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), and remove the bulb from the socket. 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the A/T gear position indicator panel light harness with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light bulb in the socket. 12. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 13. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 5310 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 8049 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Description and Operation SRS Operation SRS Operation The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is disconnected due to the impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit, respectively, will keep voltage at a constant level. For the SRS to operate: Seat Belt Tensioners and Seat Belt Buckle Tensioners 1. A front impact sensor must activate and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the tensioners. 3. The charges must ignite and deploy the tensioners. Driver's and Front Passenger's Airbag(s) 1. A front impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals, and depending on the severity of the collision and whether the seat belt buckle switch is ON or OFF, it sends the appropriate signals to the airbag inflator(s). 3. The inflators that received signals must ignite and deploy the airbags. Side Airbag(s) 1. Aside impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the microprocessor. 2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the side airbag inflator(s). However, the microprocessor turns off the signals to the front passenger's side airbag if the OPDS unit determines that the front passenger's head is in the deployment path of the side airbag. 3. The inflator that received the signal must ignite and deploy the side airbag. Self-diagnosis System A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the system is operating normally. If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after 6 seconds, or if it comes on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the system. The system must be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. For better serviceability, the SRS unit memory stores a DTC that relates to the cause of the malfunction, and the unit is connected to the data link circuit. This information can be read with the Honda PGM Tester or HDS when it is connected to the data link connector (DLC). NOTE: If the battery negative cable is disconnected during troubleshooting, do the following: Before you disconnect the battery: Locations Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 6788 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 4882 Vacuum Brake Booster: Adjustments Brake Booster Pushrod Clearance Adjustment Special Tools Required Pushrod adjustment gauge 07JAG-SD40100 NOTE: Brake booster pushrod-to-piston clearance must be checked and adjustments made, if necessary, before installing the master cylinder. 1. Set the special tool (A) on the master cylinder body (B), push in the center shaft (C) until the top of it contacts the end of the secondary piston (D) by turning the adjusting nut (E). 2. Without disturbing the center shaft's position, install the special tool (A) backwards on the booster. 3. Install the master cylinder nuts (B), and tighten them to the specified torque. 4. Connect the booster in-line with a vacuum gauge (C) 0 - 101 kPa (0 - 760 mm Hg, 30 inch Hg) to the booster's engine vacuum supply, and maintain an engine speed that will deliver 66 kPa (500 mm Hg, 20 inch Hg) vacuum. 5. With a feeler gauge (A), measure the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut (B) as shown. If the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch), the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0 mm. However, if the clearance between the gauge body and the adjusting nut is 0 mm, the pushrod-to-piston clearance is 0.4 mm (0.02 inch) or more. Therefore it must be adjusted and rechecked. Clearance: 0 - 0.4 mm (0 - 0.02 inch) Page 2278 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Part 2 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Page 7045 2. Inspect the run channel for damage. ^ If it is damaged, replace it, then recheck the noise level. ^ If the run channel is not damaged, go to step 3. 3. Remove the door panel. 4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for excessive resistance. ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 5. ^ If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 6. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. ^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required. ^ If the window noise symptoms are still present, go to step 6. 6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it and adjust as needed. Locations Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor The A/F Sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F Sensor is installed upstream of the TWC, and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. Page 7480 (Not interchangeable with CR-V and S2000 remote transmitter) Transmitter Identification The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1 seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second. Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 03-04 Accord LX and EX 2003-04 Accord LX and EX with factory-installed keyless entry system A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 8318 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 5789 10. Weld the wheelhouse upper member (A). Page 4194 VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the master cylinder, and apply a thin film of silicone grease to the clutch line fitting. REQUIRED MATERIALS Silicone Grease: P/N 08C30-B0234M, H/C 6110928 Brake Fluid: P/N 08798-9008, H/C 4423802 PARTS INFORMATION Civic/Civic Hybrid Master Cylinder: P/N 46920-S5A-G04, H/C 7569452 Accord/Civic Si/CR-V/Element Master Cylinder: P/N 46920-57A-A02, H/C 7604507 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 211101 Flat Rate Time: 0.6 hour (All Civics) 0.8 hour (Accord/CR-V/Element) Failed Part: Civic/Civic Hybrid: P/N 46920-55A-G01 H/C 6571103 Accord/Civic Si/CR-V/Element: P/N 46920-S7A-A01 H/C 6729031 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 04201 Page 3482 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 1071 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 115 Page 3889 134. A/T Reverse Relay Page 2254 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 221 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 7887 ^ If the run channel is visibly damaged, replace it, then recheck the window speed. ^ If the run channel looks OK, go to step 3. 3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through its range of travel and check for excessive resistance: ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 4. If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 5. 4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed. ^ If the run channel is not pinched, go to step 5. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. SYMPTOM 3 During operation, the window squeaks, creaks, clunks, or clicks. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Compare the window's noise level to another like vehicle: ^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal characteristic. ^ If the noise is different from the other vehicle, go to step 2. Page 4714 87. Wheel Speed Sensor, Right Rear (EX) Page 4242 5. Inspect the pressure plate surface (A) for wear, cracks. and burning. 6. Inspect for warpage using a straight edge (A) and a feeler gauge (B). Measure across the pressure plate (C). If the warpage is more than the service limit, replace the pressure plate. Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.001 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 inch) 7. Remove the clutch disc and special tools. 8. Inspect the lining of the clutch disc for signs of slippage or oil. If the clutch disc is burned black or oil soaked, replace it. 9. Measure the clutch disc thickness. If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace the clutch disc. Locations 1. Right Side of Engine Compartment (EX) Page 6500 1. On Accords and Pilots, remove the front passenger's seat-back panel by prying out the bottom. Replace the two lower clips. 2. On all models except Accords and Pilots, unzip the two seat cover zippers on the back of the front passenger's seat. 3. Pull back the seat-back cover from the left side bolster to access the OPDS unit cover. 4. Remove the OPDS unit cover from the seat frame. 5. Check the part number of the installed OPDS unit. Page 1429 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 3913 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). Page 6810 Diagram 118-2 Page 1031 The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center. NOTE: If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset. Page 3683 HDS Tablet: HDS Pocket Tester: Page 4652 Page 5440 Fuse Block: Service and Repair Removal and Installation SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service. Removal 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. 3. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 4. Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box. 5. Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash fuse/relay box (A). 6. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/ relay box. NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock type. Installation 1. Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of removal, and connect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box. 2. Install the dashboard lower cover. 3. Connect both the negative cable and positive cable to the battery. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the power window control unit reset procedure. 6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presents. 7. Confirm that all systems work properly. Page 3239 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 5317 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 209 Engine Control Module: Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 4649 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 5377 Fuse: Connector Views 212. Fog Light In-Line Fuse (Honda Accessory) 216. Trailer Lighting In-line Fuse (Honda Accessory) Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving With the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve fuel pressure from the system by stopping the fuel pump with the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). 1. Remove the fuel fill Gap. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. From the inspection menu of the Honda PGM Tester or HDS, select Fuel Pump OFF, start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. NOTE: Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the ECM/PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump. - A DTC or a temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them as needed. 5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 6. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 7. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean if it needed. 8. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). Component Locations Wheel Speed Sensor: Component Locations 120. Right Side of Engine Compartment 123. Left Side of Engine Compartment Page 3957 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 2705 Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the ECM/PCM How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a digital multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and probe the terminals (B) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 1049 ^ Loosen the front subframe bolts. See the applicable service manual for more information. NOTE: The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle. ^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you apply too much pressure. ^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°. ^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper torque. Front Camber Adjustment, Strut Suspension ^ Raise the vehicle, and remove the front tires. ^ Loosen the damper pinch bolts and the flange nuts. ^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. NOTE: Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to the parts catalog. ^ Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. ^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. Page 7210 Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair Hatch Lock Cylinder Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the cylinder rod (A), and remove the bolts securing the hatch lock cylinder (B). 3. Turn the lock cylinder (A) 45 °, and pull it out. 4. If necessary, on the outside of the hatch, remove the lock cylinder seal (B). 5. Install the lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items. - Make sure the cylinder rod is connected properly. - Make sure the hatch opens properly and locks securely. Page 314 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repairs to the SRS system for problems other than the 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 DTCs that are done after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. INSPECTION PROCEDURE NOTE: ^ When you check for SRS DTCs with the HDS, codes other than 15-1, 15-2, and 15-3 are not covered by this warranty extension bulletin. ^ If the vehicle is covered by warranty, repair it using the normal warranty repair procedures. If the vehicle's warranty is expired, give your customer an estimate for the cost of the repair. Do the appropriate inspection, based on the DTC. SRS DTC 15-1 Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-1 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-1 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-1 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-2 1. Inspect the connections and the wiring in the side airbag cutoff indicator circuit. ^ If all the connections and the wiring are OK, go to step 2. ^ If any of the connections or the wiring are faulty, repair the circuit, then go to step 2. 2. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-2 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. ^ If DTC 15-2 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. ^ If the OPDS unit causes DTC 15-2 to set repeatedly, yet passes the other troubleshooting steps, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. SRS DTC 15-3 1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. ^ If DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to step 2. ^ If DTC 15-3 sets again, continue with normal troubleshooting. 2. Ask your customer if electrical devices such as a laptop computer or a fluorescent map light are ever used near the front passenger's seat-back. (Some electrical devices that plug into the vehicle's accessory power socket, especially those using a power inverter/converter, can interfere with the seat-back sensors and cause SRS DTC 15-3 to set.) ^ If your customer uses any of these devices operate the device near the front passenger's seat-back. If DTC 15-3 sets again, clear it, then return the vehicle to the customer. Advise the customer to avoid using the device near the front passenger's seat-back. ^ If your customer does not use any of these devices and DTC 15-3 does not set again, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT. REPAIR PROCEDURE A: OPDS UNIT REPLACEMENT Page 7359 13. Push the top of the retainer clip with a flat-tip screwdriver, and hold it. Release the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool, then remove the lock cylinder. Go to step 14. 14. With the door lock cylinder out of the door handle remove the E-clip and the arm. 15. Try to insert the key into the cylinder and turn it. ^ If you can insert and turn the key, go to step 18. ^ If you cannot insert the key or turn it, go to step 16. 16. Carefully remove the spring and plastic retainer. Page 3434 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate B. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate B in the reverse order of removal. Page 5972 Blower Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type B: Blower Motor Relay Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 1188 5. If 4 numbers or marks (1 to 4 or v to vvvv) are printed around the outside of the filter, use the following procedure to tighten the filter. - Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the block, and note which number or mark is at the bottom. - Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise 3 numbers or marks from the one you noted. For example, if number 2 is at the bottom when the seal is seated, tighten the filter until the number 1 comes around the bottom. 6. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level, run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage. Oil Filter Feed Pipe Replacement 1. Remove the oil filter. 2. Remove the oil filter feed pipe. 3. Install the two 20 x 1.5 mm nuts (A) onto the new oil filter feed pipe. Hold the nut with a wrench, then tighten the other nut. 4. Tighten the oil filter feed pipe to the block to 49 Nm (5.0 kgf-m, 36 ft. lbs.), then remove the nuts from the oil filter feed pipe. Page 734 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Page 3352 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5106 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 3774 28. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 29. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 30. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 31. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 32. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 6547 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Page 2268 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) Page 6834 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Service and Repair Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Brake System Bleeding NOTE: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required. ^ Do not reuse the drained fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 brake fluid. Non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid. 1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (A). 2. Slide a piece of clear plastic hose over the bleed screw, and submerge the other end in a container of new brake fluid. 3. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 4. Loosen the left-front brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely. 5. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid. Page 8487 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 7965 Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Release the clips of the switch and push the switch (A) out of the panel, then disconnect the 5P connector (B) from the master switch. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If there is no continuity, replace illumination bulbs (C) or the switch. Page 7390 ^ If no key code can be found on the iN or with the Matrix H High Security key Codes Book, remove one tumbler at a time from the old inner cylinder, and match the number stamped on the old tumbler to a new tumbler from the kit. Insert the new tumbler and spring in the appropriate new inner cylinder cavity. ^ Do not use the old inner cylinder, springs, or tumblers. ^ Using your thumb and forefinger, hold the tumblers in place, insert the key in the cylinder and verify that all tumblers are flush with the cylinder. If not, double-check the key number, the cutting key code, the tumbler numbers, and the cavity locations. NOTE: If the key cannot be inserted, check the tumbler in the "J" cavity. It may be out of position. Page 143 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 1910 Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 438 30. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 8137 Page 2838 Oxygen Sensor: Diagrams 112. A/F Sensor 123. Secondary HO2S Page 6038 198. Heater Control Panel Page 4826 Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items: ^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water. ^ To prevent dripping, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels. ^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air. ^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles. ^ Replace parts with new ones as specified in the illustration. ^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid. ^ When reusing pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of braking efficiency. ^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. ^ Always use Honda DOT 3 brake fluid. Non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system. ^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible. ^ Coat the piston, piston seal groove, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid. ^ Make sure no grease or oil gets on the brake discs or pads. ^ Replace all rubber parts with new ones whenever disassembled. ^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting. Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 3739 NOTE: If the latest software is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software are not covered under warranty. 2. From the iN workstation desktop, select CM Update (ECU Rewrite). 3. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Click on the Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is set to GNA600. 4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-th ru-Mode. 5. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's DLC. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on. Click on the check mark to continue. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. NOTE: Update the systems one at a time. Page 2539 Idle Speed: Description and Operation Idle Control System When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the ECM/PCM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve to maintain the correct idle speed. Refer to the System Diagram to see the functional layout of the system. Idle Control System Diagram The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve: - After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain amount of time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed. - When the engine coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation to engine coolant temperature. Page 5434 Fuse Block: Connector Views 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 3176 Catalytic Converter: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P0420 Service Manual Revision SOURCE: Honda Service News July 2004 TITLE: S/M Fix: DTC P0420 Troubleshooting APPLIES TO: 2003-04 Accord, 2003-04 Element SERVICE TIP: The troubleshooting procedure for DTC P0420 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold) in the 2003-04 Accord S/M and the 2003-04 Element S/M is wrong. It was written before we had the current software problem and the updated software to correct this DTC. Make this change in your copies of the appropriate S/M: 20030-4 Accord Page 11-245, step 9: Change the text to read: Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM). Refer to Service Bulletin 03-063 for specific model application and procedural information. 2003-04 Element Page 11-219, step 9: Change the text to read: Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM). Refer to Service Bulletin 03-031 for specific model application and procedural information. Don't replace the catalytic converter unless the software has already been updated and DTC P0420 sets again; doing so wouldn't provide a lasting repair and could result in a warranty debit. Page 517 47. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 545 Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Fuel sender wrench 07XAA-001010A 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the fuel till cap. 3. Remove the center console, both track floor covers, and both sill trims. 4. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 5. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 6. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (C) from the fuel tank unit. 7. Using the special tool, loosen the fuel pump sending assembly locknut (A). Page 4627 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 SRS Unit Replacement Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair SRS Unit Replacement SRS Unit Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the driver's and front passenger's airbag connectors. 3. Disconnect the side airbag connectors. 4. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 5. Remove the dashboard center lower cover. 6. Pull down the carpet, then remove the torx bolt (A) from the SRS unit. 7. Disconnect the connectors and remove the two torx bolts (A), then pull out the SRS unit. Installation 1. Install the new SRS unit (A) with Torx bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS unit; push them into position until they click. Page 5538 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 7282 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Locations Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Locations EVAP System - Component Location Index Page 2920 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) Part 2 Page 1511 4. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) from the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Install the hub (A) and backing plate (B) on the new bearing unit (c) using the special tools and a hydraulic press. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. NOTE: (with ABS) Remove any oil, grease, dust, or other foreign material from the encoder surface (D). - Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. - Be careful not to damage the encoder surface. 7. Install the bearing unit (A) and knuckle (B). Page 108 Horn Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 1637 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 6218 Air Bag: Service and Repair Front Passenger Airbag Front Passenger's Airbag Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Remove the glove box. 3. Disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from the dashboard wire harness. 4. Remove the passenger's dashboard middle panel and the dashboard tray cover. 5. Remove the screws (A) and the mounting nuts (B) from the bracket. Cover the lid and dashboard with a cloth, and pry carefully with a screwdriver to lift the front passenger's airbag (C) out of the dashboard. NOTE: The airbag lid has pawls on its side that attach it to the dashboard. Installation Page 6136 Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications Refrigerant type ................................................................................................................................... ................................................ HFC-134a (R-134a) Lubricant type: DENSO: ND-OI L8 (P/N 38897-PR7-A01AH or 38899-PR7-A01) Page 5697 NOTE: The pinion shaft and sleeve are a precision matched set. If either the pinion shaft or sleeve must be replaced, replace both parts as a set. 28. Remove the external snap ring (A) and sleeve (B) from the pinion shaft. 29. Using a cutter or an equivalent tool, cut and remove the four seal rings from the sleeve. Be careful not to damage the edges of the sleeve grooves and the outer surface when removing the seal rings. 30. Using a cutter or an equivalent tool, cut the valve seal ring (A) and O-ring (B) at the groove (C) in the pinion shaft. Remove the valve seal ring and O-ring. Be careful not to damage the edges of the pinion shaft groove and outer surface when removing the valve seal ring and O-ring. 31. Remove the valve oil seal (A) and wave washer (B) from the pinion shaft. Page 5438 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 1861 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 5086 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 1502 8. With ABS: Remove the flange bolt (A) and wheel sensor (B) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. 9. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm (E). 10. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and remove the castle nut (B). NOTE: During installation, insert the lock pin into the ball joint pin from the inside to the outside of the vehicle. The closed end of the lock pin must be in the range shown. 11. Disconnect the lower arm from the knuckle using the special tool. M/T - Clutch Pedal Squeak/Twang or Notchy Feel Clutch Master Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins M/T - Clutch Pedal Squeak/Twang or Notchy Feel 02-002 January 11, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Squeak at the Clutch Pedal (Supersedes 02-002, dated September 21, 2004) SYMPTOM A squeak, a twang, or a notchy feel when the clutch pedal is pressed. PROBABLE CAUSE The clutch master cylinder spring is rubbing on the outer diameter of the piston when the pedal is pressed, or the master cylinder quick connect is moving. Page 6575 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Page 3770 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 966 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations Page 5110 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Connector Views 28. Accessory Power Socket, Front 29. Accessory Power Socket, Rear 144. Rear Accessory Power Socket And A/F Sensor Relays Page 5199 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 462 Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Remove the appropriate front driveshaft or rear driveshaft. 2. Check the magnetic encoder after cleaning the encoder. If necessary, replace the front wheel bearing or rear wheel bearing. 3. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and the magnetic encoder all the way around while rotating the encoder. Standard: Front/Rear: 0.5 - 1.5 mm (0.02 - 0.06 inch) NOTE: ^ Install the wheel bearing with the magnetic encoder (brown color) toward the inside of the knuckle. ^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, or other foreign material from the encoder surface. ^ Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. ^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing. Page 3627 Page 5124 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 7550 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 72185-S9A-003 H/C 6896716 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07902 Skill Level: Repair Technician Trim Removal/Installation - Tailgate Area Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Tailgate Area Trim Removal/Installation - Tailgate Area Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program. NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. 1. Remove the tailgate weatherstrip as needed. 2. Remove the tailgate handle knob (A), and remove the screw. 3. Open the tailgate. Starting at the bottom edge on the tailgate lower trim panel (A), pull the trim panel up to detach the clips. Page 1565 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 167 Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Component Location Index Page 5435 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 5611 2. Remove the wheel cap, wheel nuts, and front wheel. 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index Page 5074 Accessory Power Sockets Component Location Index Diagrams Seat Belt Tensioner: Diagrams 61. Seat Belt Tensioner, Driver's 62. Seat Belt Tensioner, Front Passenger's 121. Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner, Driver's Page 4528 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 94. Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) 102. Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) Page 2195 Water Pump: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Remove the drive belt. 2. Turn the water pump pulley counterclockwise. Check that it turns freely. 3. Check for signs of seal leakage. A small amount of "weeping" from the bleed holes (A) is normal. Page 3447 Ignition Coil: Service and Repair Ignition Coil Removal/Installation 1. Remove the ignition coil cover (A), then remove the ignition coils (B). 2. Install the ignition coils in the reverse order of removal. Page 102 Headlamp Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 8138 Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Switch Test NOTE: For more key-in beeper information, refer to the circuit diagram and input test. When the ignition key is in the ignition switch, the key-in beeper circuit of the multiplex control unit senses ground through the closed ignition key switch. When you open the driver's door, the beeper circuit senses ground through the closed door switch. When both switches are closed (driver's door and ignition), the key-in beeper in the gauge assembly is activated. 1. Remove the steering column upper and lower covers. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be continuity with the key in the ignition switch. - There should be no continuity with the key removed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the steering lock assembly. Page 1995 Coolant: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, then turn off the ignition switch. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the touch. 2. Remove the radiator cap. 3. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant. 4. After the coolant has drained, tighten the radiator drain plug. 5. Remove, drain and reinstall the reverse tank. 6. Fill the reserve tank to the MAX mark (A) with Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001). 7. Pour Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. Page 1327 Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications Refrigerant type ................................................................................................................................... ................................................ HFC-134a (R-134a) Lubricant type: DENSO: ND-OIL8 (P/N 38897-PR7-A01AH or 38899-PR7-A01) Page 3386 68. Behind Glove Box Page 5860 Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement 1. Remove the brake hose mounting bracket (A). 2. Separate the bearing unit (A) from the knuckle (B). 3. Separate the hub (A) and backing plate (B) from bearing unit (C) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the bearing unit with a press attachment (D) or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Page 6873 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 6382 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 6357 Air Bag Control Module: Diagrams 206. OPDS Unit (EX: Side Airbag) Page 2902 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 121 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3199 Evaporative Shut Valve: Service and Repair EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Replacement 1. Remove the EVAP canister. 2. Pry the lock tabs outward (A), then remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve (B). NOTE: Be careful not to damage the lock tabs. 3. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). NOTE: Do not coat the O-ring with engine oil etc. Page 1317 1. Before adding any leak-detection dye, check to see if there is dye in the system now. ^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has been added to the system. ^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this: - Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap. - Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system. ^ If there is no dye in the system, go to step 2. ^ If there is dye in the system, go to step 5. Do not add more dye. 2. Add the dye. NOTE: Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following: (a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting. (b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule. (c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set. (d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes. (e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and disconnect the NC recovery and charging station. (f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for future use. NOTE: ^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil. ^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before adding any dye. (g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye. * NOTE: Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.* (h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye to enter the system. (i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control valve on the set. (j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage case. * NOTE: Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.* (k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge label. Page 8695 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 3735 details, refer to the MVCI User Guide on ISIS. The Database Update version appears when you select Reprogramming, then press ENTER. 1. Connect the DLC cable to the MVCI and to the vehicle's DLC. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). The MVCI automatically boots up. 3. Press the ENTER button on the MVCI to see the User Config menu. Select CM Update Mode. 4. Select Reprogramming, then press ENTER. NOTE: Use these MVCI default settings: Setting 1Destination: USA Language: American English Setting 2 - Auto Detect: Yes Continuous Mode: No For more information on these settings, refer to the MVCI User Guide. 5. The CM Update software information appears. Press ENTER to continue. Front Suspension Stabilizer Link: Service and Repair Front Suspension Removal/Installation 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) while holding the respective joint pin (C) with a hex wrench (D), and remove the stabilizer link (E). 3. Install the stabilizer link (A) on the stabilizer bar (B) and lower arm (C) with the joint pins (D) set at the center of their range of movement. 4. Install the self-locking nut and flange nut, and lightly tighten them. NOTE: Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly. 5. Place the floor jack under the lower arm ball joint, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight. NOTICE: Do not place the jack against the ball joint pin. Page 2679 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Diagrams Page 657 Electric Load Sensor: Locations PGI-FI System - Component Location Index Page 5321 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 1993 Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications ENGINE COOLANT TYPE Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001). Using a non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50 % antifreeze and 50 % water. Premixing is not required. Page 8275 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7446 1991-93 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry or dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter The transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code number. The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car. Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and glove compartment lock. To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery is not replaceable. 91-93 Accord 5-Door LX 1991-93 Accord 5-door LX with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address: Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90501-5745 Page 7473 The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Accord, Civic, Del SOL, Prelude & 95 Odyssey 1994-95 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Prelude with dealer-installed security system 1995 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode. 3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted. 4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash after each transmitter code is accepted. 5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 96-98 Civic EX & Except EX, Civic 1996-98 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic with dealer-installed security system Page 7481 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1616. Each transmitter uses one battery. 97-04 CR-V & 00-04 S2000 *1997-04 CR-V LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1998-04 CR-V EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-01 CR-V SE with factory-installed keyless entry system 2000-04 S2000 with factory-installed keyless entry system 2002-04 CR-V with dealer-installed security system* Page 1392 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. A/T - Stuck In Park After Throttle Body Replacement Throttle Body: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Stuck In Park After Throttle Body Replacement SOURCE: Honda Service News July 2004 TITLE: A/T Stuck in Park After Throttle Body Replacement APPLIES TO: A/T-equipped 2003-04 Accords, 2002-04 CR-Vs, and 2003-04 Elements. SERVICE TIP: Has this happened to you? You've replaced the throttle body, now you start the engine, but the A/T won't shift out of Park. If this situation strikes an all-too-familiar chord, it could be that the PCM needs to learn the relative throttle position. This is a learned value, just like idle learn. To make this happen, here's what you do: 1. Connect the HDS with version 1.012.023 or later software to the 16P DLC. 2. With the engine turned off, check the TPS sensor voltage and the relative throttle position. The TPS sensor voltage should read 0.49 volt; the relative throttle position should read 0 %. If both the TPS sensor voltage and the throttle position are OK, then continue with normal troubleshooting. If the TPS sensor voltage doesn't read 0.49 volt, go to step 3. If the relative throttle position doesn¡C■t read 0%, go to step 4. 3. TPS sensor voltage greater than 0.49 volt: Check the adjustment of the cruise control and throttle cables. If the cables are properly adjusted, then replace the throttle body, and retest. TPS sensor voltage less than 0.49 volt: Replace the throttle body, and retest. 4. Reset the PCM with the HDS, then do the idle learn procedure. Page 1863 80. VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Page 2789 63. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 64. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 1. 64. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 65. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.1 and ECM/PCM connector terminals A2 and A3 individually. Is there continuity? YES - Replace PGM-FI main relay 1. NO - Repair open in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and the ECM/PCM (A2, A3). 66. Measure voltage between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminals A4, A5, A8, and A9 individually. Is there more than 0.2 V? YES - Repair open in the wire(s) that had more than 0.2 V between G101 and the ECM/PCM (A4, A5, A8, A9). NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good, ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. Page 8520 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 5069 Starter Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Starter Solenoid Test M/T 1. Check the hold in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground). There should be continuity. - If there is continuity, go to step 2. - If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid. 2. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and M terminal. There should be continuity. - If there is continuity, the solenoid is OK. - If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid. Page 4464 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Air Mix Control Motor Test Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Air Mix Control Motor Test Air Mix Control Motor Test 1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the air mix control motor. NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the air mix control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully. 2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the air mix control motor, and ground the No. 2 terminal; the air mix control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Max Hot. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the air mix control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Max Cool. 3. If the air mix control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the air mix control linkage and door for smooth movement. - If the linkage and door move smoothly, replace the air mix control motor. - If the linkage or door sticks or binds, repair them as needed. - If the air mix control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4. 4. Measure the resistance between the No. 5 and No. 7 terminals. It should be between 4.2 k to 7.8 kOhm. 5. Reconnect the air mix control motor 7P connector, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 6. Using the Backprobe Set, measure the voltage between the No. 3 and No. 7 terminals. Max Cool - about 1 V Max Hot - about 4 V 7. If either the resistance or voltage readings are not as specified, replace the air mix control motor. Page 5569 Alignment: By Symptom Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502 Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Page 2069 58. Radiator Fan Switch Page 3119 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 6232 6. Connect the SCS service connector (A) to the yellow MES 2P connector (B). Do not use a jumper wire. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. The SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and goes off. Remove the SCS service connector from the MES 2P connector within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator went off. 9. The SRS indicator comes on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES 2P connector within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on. 10. The SRS indicator goes off. Remove the SCS service connector from the MES 2P connector within 4 seconds. 11. Watch the SRS indicator. - If the indicator blinks two times and then stays on, the OPDS is initialized, but the DTCs need to be erased. Go to step 12, then erase the DTCs. - If the indicator blinks two times and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Go to step 12. - If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS is not initialized. Read the DTC. If DTC 15-1 is indicated, repeat the initialization procedure. If another DTC is indicated, go to the appropriate code in the DTC Troubleshooting. If the OPDS system fails to initialize after several attempts, replace the OPDS sensor/seat back and retry. If the OPDS system continues to fail to initialize, replace the OPDS unit. 12. Turn the ignition switch off, and disconnect the HDS Page 1444 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 3612 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 6634 system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Turning the Audible Chirp On/Off (1998-99 only) NOTE: On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the transmitter a second time. 1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock. 2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position, three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the chirp has been turned on/off. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) Oxygen Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) 03-027 May 6, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Accord L4 2-door- From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A020275 2003 Accord L4 4-door- From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A071758 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C073601 2003 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1...3L006131 2003 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...3L000001 thru 5J6YH2...3L014546 MIL Comes On With DTC P2A00 (P2900) SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P2A00 (P2900)* [Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range Performance Problem]. * If you use the PGM Tester to retrieve codes, you may see DTC P2900; it's the same as DTC P2A00. PROBABLE CAUSE The air fuel ratio sensor is faulty. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for DTC P2A00 (P2900). If P2A00 (P2900) is present, replace the air fuel ratio sensor, and clear the DTC. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 36531-RAA-A01 H/C 7136187 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C99 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. PARTS INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or the PGM Tester to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector), and check for DTCs. CMP Pulse Plate Replacement Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Replacement CMP Pulse Plate A Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate A. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate A in the reverse order of removal. CMP Pulse Plate B Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. Page 5804 2. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, and remove the nut (B). 3. Disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering arm on the damper using the special tools. 4. Remove the bolts, and remove the wheel sensor harness bracket (A) (with ABS) and brake hose bracket (B) from the damper. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector 5. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B). 6. Remove the flange nuts (A) from the top of the damper. Page 3881 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Update the PCM How to Update the PCM NOTE: ^ To ensure the latest program is installed, update a PCM whenever the PCM is substituted or replaced. You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. ^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. To prevent PCM damage, do not operate any electrical system; audio system, brakes, air conditioning, power windows, moonroof, and door locks, during the update. ^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the DLC. This will prevent PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda interface module (HIM) to the DLC located under the left end of the dash. 3. Update the PCM according to the procedures described on the HIM label. If the software in the PCM is the latest, replace the PCM. Page 2354 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 4463 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Page 5787 5. Main weld the damper housing (A) to the front side frame (B). 6. Main weld the damper housing extension upper (A)and front damper extension (B) to the dashboard upper (C) and dashboard upper side member (D). 7. Main weld the front damper extension (A) to the dash board upper side member (B) and front inner lower pillar(C). Page 8273 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 5175 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 2494 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 1584 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1. Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.). If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step 7. 7. Replace the VTC valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat a new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 1833 Page 3900 27. Transmission Housing (A/T) 124. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 3122 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 133 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 5696 23. Carefully pry the piston seal ring (A) and O-ring (B) off the rack piston. Be careful not to damage the inside of the seal ring groove and piston edges when removing the seal ring. 24. Before removing the valve housing (A), apply vinyl tape (B) to the splines on the pinion shaft. 25. Separate the valve housing from the pinion shaft/ valve using a press. 26. With your finger, check the inner wall of the valve housing where the seal ring slides. If there is a step in the wall, the housing is worn. Replace it. NOTE: There may be sliding marks from the seal ring on the wall of the valve housing. Replace the valve housing only if the wall is stepped. 27. Check for wear, burrs, and other damage to the edges of the grooves in the sleeve. Page 6624 (Not interchangeable with CR-V and S2000 remote transmitter) Transmitter Identification The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1 seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second. Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 03-04 Accord LX and EX 2003-04 Accord LX and EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 5111 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Electrical Diagrams Accessory Power Sockets - Circuit Diagram Wiring Diagrams Page 7460 system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Turning the Audible Chirp On/Off (1998-99 only) NOTE: On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the transmitter a second time. 1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock. 2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position, three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the chirp has been turned on/off. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim Fuse Block: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical/Lighting - DTC P1298 Set or Headlamps Dim 05-034 December 14, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM (Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2000) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim). PROBABLE CAUSE The ELD has a faulty solder joint. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fusel/relay box. Element Replace the ELD. Page 4615 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 7177 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 6860 Wire Color Codes Page 3274 46. Injectors Removal and Installation Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Removal and Installation How to Remove the ECM/PCM for Testing If the troubleshooting for a code requires voltage or resistance checks at the ECM/PCM connectors, remove the ECM/PCM and test it: 1. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 2. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover, the right kick panel, and the grove box. 3. Cut the plastic cross brace in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the area shown, and discard it. 4. Remove the relays (A), then remove the bolts (B) and the glove box frame (C). 5. Remove the gray 20P ECM/PCM wire harness connector (A) from the ECM/PCM mounting bracket. Remove the ECM/PCM mounting bolt (B) Page 1875 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly 2. Remove the cover (A). 3. Remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (B). 4. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 3165 132. Transmission Housing (M/T) Page 200 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Locations Oxygen Sensor Relay: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index Page 7485 Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter This transmitter is no longer available. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 97-99 EV Plus With Factory-Installed Security System 1997-99 EV Plus with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only through Tech Line. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 00-04 Insight With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 2000-04 Insight with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 202 DTC P1253 thru P1459 Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index Page 2471 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 92. CMP Sensor A 93. CMP Sensor B Diagram Information and Instructions Auxiliary Power Outlet: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 7194 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2ND Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the connector from the 2nd clutch pressure switch (A). 3. Remove the 2nd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 4. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. 5. Install the air cleaner housing. Description and Operation Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes) The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM/PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail the test, or the test cannot be finished. To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set each code, drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures in this section. Page 5660 - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. After you reconnect the battery: - Do the engine idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the radio anti-theft code, enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Page 8577 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Service and Repair Gauge Bulb Replacement Page 7735 Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Remove the driver's seat from the vehicle. ^ Refer to page 20-86 of the 2003-06 Element Service Manual, or * ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT, and select Front Seat Removal/Installation from the list.* 4. Place the seat on a workbench covered with shop towels. 5. Pull off the recline handle. 6. Pry the center cap from the height knob with a flat- tip screwdriver. Remove the C-clip, and pull off the knob. 7. Remove the recline cover (one screw, three clips, and two hooks). Locations Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 6894 Diagram 118-1 Page 7711 5. From under the seat cushion, release the seat cushion cover (A) from the seat cushion frame spring (B), and release the hooks (C). 6. Remove the seat cushion cover (A) with the seat cushion pad from the seat cushion frame. 7. Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), then remove the seat cushion cover (B). 8. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the clips and hooks. Locations Page 6616 This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit. 1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one. 2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip. 3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to lock the chip in place. 4. Repeat step 3 to install a ROM chip into the new transmitter. 5. Reinstall the rear covers on the transmitters. 6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat. 7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure as in steps 2 and 3.) 8. Press the reset button next to the ROM chip. 9. Close the access cover, and reinstall the control unit. If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is 5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from American Honda. If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at (800) 421-2284, extension 8885. Batteries for the Transmitter Page 8324 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 5058 14. Holding the drive gear (A), turn the gear shaft (B) clockwise. Check that the drive gear comes out to the other end. If the drive gear does not move smoothly, replace the gear cover assembly. 15. Holding the drive gear, turn the gear shaft counterclockwise. The gear shaft should rotate freely. If the gear shaft does not rotate smoothly, replace the gear cover assembly. 16. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the torque converter ring gear to see if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged. Starter Reassembly 17. Install the brush into the brush holder, and set the armature (A) in the brush holder (B). NOTE: To seat the new brushes, slip a strip of #500 or # 600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator. 18. Squeezing a spring (C), insert it in the hole on the brush holder, and push it until it bottoms. Repeat this for the other three springs (D, E and F). 19. Install the armature and brush holder assembly into the housing. NOTE: Make sure the armature stays in the holder. Page 7991 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Locations Cruise Control Switch: Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 6052 Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Evaporator Temperature Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the evaporator temperature sensor (B), then remove the connector clip (C). Turn the evaporator temperature sensor clockwise to the stop, and carefully pull it out. 2. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Service and Repair Front Door Exterior Handle: Service and Repair Front Door Outer Handle Replacement NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover, as necessary 2. Raise the glass fully. 3. Pull the glass run channel (A) away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel (B) by pulling it downward. 4. Remove the access seal (A), and disconnect the outer handle rod (B) and cylinder rod (C). Page 5931 Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Mode Control Motor Mode Control Motor Replacement 1. Remove the ECM/PCM. 2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the mode control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws and the mode control motor from the heater unit. 3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly. Page 1094 Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection Fuel Pressure Test Special Tools Required - Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A - Fuel pressure gauge set 07ZAJ-S5A0100 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure gauge. 3. Start the engine and let it idle. - If the engine starts, go to step 5. - If the engine does not start, go to step 4. 4. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on. If the pump runs, go to step 5. - If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting. 5. Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 330 - 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 55 psi). - If the pressure is OK, the test is complete. - If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then recheck the fuel pressure. Page 883 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Service and Repair Power Steering Hoses, Lines, and Pressure Switch Replacement Note these items during installation: ^ Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from the hose end as shown. ^ Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new ones if necessary. ^ Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the reservoir and check for leaks. Page 5185 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 6852 Diagram 118-3 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 34 199. ABS Modulator-Control Unit (EX) Service and Repair Tailgate Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Tailgate Weatherstrip Replacement 1. Open the tailgate half-way, and hold it. 2. On both sides of the tailgate weatherstrip (A), detach the clips with a clip remover, and release the double-sided adhesive tape (B). 3. Remove the tailgate weatherstrip by pulling out on it. 4. Scrape off the remaining double-sided adhesive tape from the weatherstrip and tailgate, and clean the weatherstrip and tailgate surface with alcohol. Attach the new double-sided adhesive tape (3M 4213, or equivalent) to the weatherstrip. 5. Align the weatherstrip with both edges of the tailgate, and install the weatherstrip along the edge of the tailgate. Make sure there are no wrinkles in the weatherstrip. 6. Install the clips in both sides. 7. Check for water leaks. Page 5205 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5810 Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ): Service and Repair Rear Suspension Damper/Spring Replacement Removal 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the rear wheels. Page 2701 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Part 1 Locations Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 2942 Oxygen Sensor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Removal and Installation Steering Gear: Service and Repair Removal and Installation Steering Gearbox Removal Special Tools Required Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 Note these items during removal: ^ Using solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off the valve body unit, its lines, and the end of the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air. ^ Be sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint. Damage to the cable reel can occur. 1. Raise the front of vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the front wheels. 3. Remove the steering wheel. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover and under cover. 5. Remove the steering joint bolts, and disconnect the steering joint by moving the steering joint (A) toward the column. 6. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the tie-rod ball joint nut (B), and loosen the nut. 7. Separate the tie-rod ball joint and damper steering arm using the special tool. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle. 8. Remove the P/S heat baffle plate (A). Page 1033 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Removal and Installation Alternator: Service and Repair Removal and Installation Alternator Replacement 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the customer's radio station presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable. 3. Remove the drive belt. 4. Remove the auto-tensioner. 5. Disconnect the alternator connector (A), BLK wire (B) and harness clamp (C) from the alternator. 6. Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve. 7. Remove the three bolts securing the alternator. 8. Install the alternator and drive belt in the reverse order of removal. 9. Connect the battery positive cable and negative cable to the battery. 10. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station preset. 11. Perform the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) idle learn procedure, and the power window control unit reset procedure. 12. Set the clock. Page 5762 3. Remove the snap ring (A) and the splash guard (B) from the knuckle (C). 4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (c), a steel plate (D), the special tool, and a press. NOTE: (with ABS): ^ Install the wheel bearing with the magnetic encoder (E) (brown color) toward the inside of the knuckle. ^ Remove any oil, grease, dust metal debris, or other foreign material from the encoder surface. ^ Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. ^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing. Page 130 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 5956 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 1966 Water Pump: Service and Repair Water Passage Replacement Installation 1. Clean and dry the water passage mating surfaces. 2. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, evenly to the cylinder block mating surface of the water passage and to the inner threads of the bolt holes. NOTE: Do not install the parts if 4 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing old residue. 3. Install the water passage (A) with a new O-ring (B). 4. After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with coolant or oil. Page 3713 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-305 H/C 8423972 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 09201 Template ID: 06-041A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE Disclaimer Page 685 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Service and Repair MAP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the screw (B). 3. Remove the MAP sensor (C). 4. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 6628 Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 88-91 Prelude With Dealer-Installed Security System 1988-91 Prelude with dealer-installed security system Page 921 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Locations Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index 29. Rear Of Engine Compartment Page 1920 ^ Click on PGM-FI. ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. Page 2988 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Removal and Installation Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Removal and Installation How to Remove the ECM/PCM for Testing If the troubleshooting for a code requires voltage or resistance checks at the ECM/PCM connectors, remove the ECM/PCM and test it: 1. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 2. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover, the right kick panel, and the grove box. 3. Cut the plastic cross brace in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the area shown, and discard it. 4. Remove the relays (A), then remove the bolts (B) and the glove box frame (C). 5. Remove the gray 20P ECM/PCM wire harness connector (A) from the ECM/PCM mounting bracket. Remove the ECM/PCM mounting bolt (B) Page 3916 24. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 25. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. 26. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 27. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 28. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 29. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 30. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 7988 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 7317 8. With the help of an assistant, remove the headliner (A). 1. If equipped with a skylight, remove the roof trim (B). 2. Remove the clip from the rear edge of the headliner. 3. Remove the remaining door opening seal (C) from each opening. 4. Lower the headliner. 9. Remove the headliner through the hatch opening. Take care not to damage the headliner. Page 4561 19. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 20. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 21. Remove the shift lock solenoid harness clamp from the shift lever bracket, and remove the shift lock solenoid. 22. Replace the shift lock solenoid. 23. Install the new shift lock solenoid (A) on the shift lever/bracket assembly (B) with aligning the shift lock solenoid plunger (C) with the tip of the shift lock stop (D). 24. Install the harness clamp (E) on the shift lock solenoid harness (F) at 128 - 138 mm (5.0 - 5.4 inch) (G) from the harness terminal end. 25. Install the clamp in the hole (H) of the shift lever bracket. 26. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 27. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. Page 4957 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 2378 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair FTP Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the EVAP canister. 2. Remove the FTP sensor (A). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (B). Page 5703 62. Install the new backup ring (A) on the steering rack, then place the backup ring and cylinder end seal (B) against the piston (C). 63. Mark (A) a position on the steering rack surface with a felt-tip marker, 7.7 mm (0.3 inch) from the rack end. 64. Apply power steering grease to the steering rack teeth, then insert the steering rack (A) into the cylinder (B). Be careful not to damage the inner surface of the cylinder wall and bushing with the rack edges. 65. Set the cylinder (A) in a press, then press the cylinder end seal (B) into the bottom of the cylinder until the mark (C) on the rack meets the edges (D) of the cylinder. Page 7638 NOTE: For color information, refer to PIB A05-0005, Child Seat Anchor Buttons. Click PARTS, then click PARTS LIBRARY, then click Parts Bulletins. Select Child Seat Anchor Buttons from the list. (Each part contains fabric washers, button posts, and back portions.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: 82123-SDA-305ZA Defect Code: 07801 Symptom Code: 03220 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the rear seat-back cover just enough to allow access to the opening where the button will be attached: ^ Refer to Section 20, Rear Seat-back Cover Replacement, in the appropriate service manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, and select the appropriate Rear Seat-back Cover Replacement procedure from the list. 2. Select the appropriate button from the Child Seat Anchor Service Set. 3. Attach the button to the rear seat-back cover: ^ Place a fabric washer over the button post. ^ Insert the post through the opening in the cover. ^ Snap the back portion onto the post. Page 4733 Page 6700 ^ Click on Returns and Surplus. ^ Click on Audio Core Return. ^ Select the appropriate VIN to view the Update Core Return information screen. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon. 14. Place the printed copies of the Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form and the Core Return Update Acknowledgement into the core return box with the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core. NOTE: If you return a failed audio/navigation/RES core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership. 15. Ship the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core to the appropriate location by using the prepaid shipping label that came with the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit. NOTE: If the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not received at the specified address within 30 days from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, your warranty claim will be debited, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. If you know that you cannot return the core within 30 days, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group, and ask for an extension. ^ If you call for an extension and the core is not received within 60 days from the order date, you will be debited the full amount of the warranty claim. ^ If you do not call for an extension, and the core is received between 31 and 60 days from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, a $250 late core charge will be assessed. WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Here is a list of answers to the most frequently asked questions about the warranty audio order program: Question: When do I use the warranty audio order program? Answer: Use the program when you are replacing an audio/navigation/RES unit under warranty (including goodwill) that has an internal failure. NOTE: The customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is removed by the supplier at tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealership. Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable core, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. Remanufactured audio/navigation/RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs. New components should be used to repair new, unsold vehicles. A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured component is currently unavailable from American Honda. Your DPSM must authorize ordering a new component. Question: How do I order a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit? Answer: For a warranty replacement, use the ordering information IN WARRANTY EXCHANGE. For goodwill repair, contact your DPSM. For a non-warranty repair, see OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR. Question: Who do I call for questions on the Warranty Audio Order Program? Answer: For administrative questions, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group. Page 6893 Trailer Connector: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 118-0 Page 780 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Interior - Driver's Seat Rocks While Driving Seat Track: Customer Interest Interior - Driver's Seat Rocks While Driving 03-032 November 3, 2006 *Applies To: 2003-05 Element - ALL 2006 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...6L000001 thru 5J6YH1...6L007635 2006 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...6L000001 thru 5J6YH2...6L012681* Element: Driver's Seat Rocks (Supersedes 03-032, dated June 25, 2004, to update the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) SYMPTOM The driver's seat rocks back and forth during normal driving. PROBABLE CAUSE There are worn bushings in the height adjustment mechanism. CORRECTIVE ACTION Install new seat bushings, nuts, and spacers. *Use brake cleaner to remove grease from any threads before installing the nut.* PARTS INFORMATION Nut With Washer, (six required): P/N 90321-884-999, H/C 7679780 Seat Link Bushing (six required): P/N 90502-53N-013, H/C 6690440 Spacer (three required): P/N 90503-53N-003, H/C 6852578 *REQUIRED MATERIALS Brake Cleaner: P/N 08732-0010, H/C 6985634 (One can repairs four vehicles.)* WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 851138 Flat Rate Time: 0.7 hour Failed Part: P/N 81536-SCV-A51 H/C 7289226 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07302 Template ID: 03-032A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Page 4002 27. Transmission Housing (A/T) 124. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 6133 Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak. NOTE: Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to inspect for leaks. (c) Inspect the entire system. Be sure to check these locations: ^ damaged and corroded areas ^ fittings ^ hose-to-line couplings ^ refrigerant controls ^ service ports ^ brazed or welded areas ^ areas near attachment points (d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and glasses. (e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle). Disclaimer Page 2653 DTC P0750 thru P0977 Page 6754 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Page 3356 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 6696 1. Print out the appropriate system worksheet from an Interactive Network (iN) workstation. ^ From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE. ^ Click on (ISIS) Service Publications. ^ Click on SEARCH BY PUBLICATION. ^ Click on Job Aids. ^ Click on Audio System Worksheet, Navigation System Worksheet, or Rear Entertainment System Worksheet. 2. Duplicate and confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or have the customer demonstrate the problem, then write down the results on the worksheet. Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX (if applicable) in the applicable service manual, find the symptom that matches the customers complaint, and follow the diagnostic procedure: ^ Refer to the appropriate section in the service manual, or ^ From the iN main menu: - Click on SERVICE. - Click on ISIS (Service Publications). - Click on SEARCH BY VEHICLE. - Enter the model and the model year. - Enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES, and the DTC (if applicable) - Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or Symptom Troubleshooting from the list. 3. Repair the vehicle according to your diagnosis, then confirm the repair by trying to duplicate the customer's original complaint, or check to see if the DTC returns: ^ If the problem is gone, return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the problem is still there, go to step 4. 4. Replace the audio/navigation/RES unit with a remanufactured unit: Page 3282 Fuel Line Coupler: Service and Repair Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fittings Precaution The fuel line/quick-connect fittings connect the fuel rail (A) to fuel feed hose (B), fuel feed hose (B) to the fuel feed hose (C), the fuel feed hose (C) to the fuel line (D), the fuel line (E) to the fuel tank unit (F) and the fuel vapor line (G) to the EVAP canister (H). When removing or installing the fuel feed hose, fuel tank unit, or fuel tank, it is necessary to disconnect or connect the quick-connect fittings. Pay attention to the following: - The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, fuel vapor line, and quick-connect fittings are not heat-resistant; be careful not to damage them during welding or other heat-generating procedures. - The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, fuel vapor line, and quick-connect fittings are not acid-proof; do not touch them with a shop towel that was used for wiping battery electrolyte. Replace them if they came into contact with electrolyte or something similar. Diagrams Page 3347 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 5847 Page 6249 Impact Sensor: Diagrams 51. Impact Sensor, Left Front 52. Impact Sensor, Right Front 65. Side Impact Sensor, Driver's (EX: Side Airbag) Page 943 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 8488 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 5961 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2642 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 68 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Locations Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Locations 25. Transmission Housing 125. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 6324 Page 7008 Front Door Window Motor: Connector Locations 78. Driver's Door 81. Front Passenger's Door Page 2051 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 596 38. Middle Of Dash (M/T Similar) Page 5145 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 1411 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 2637 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 2733 How to Identify Connector Terminals Locations Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Locations Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations Page 5093 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 602 34. Inside Steering Wheel Page 113 Wire Color Codes Page 1354 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 3525 28. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 29. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 30. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. 31. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 32. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 1129 Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. CMP Pulse Plate Replacement Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Replacement CMP Pulse Plate A Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate A. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate A in the reverse order of removal. CMP Pulse Plate B Replacement 1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt. Page 7138 Trunk / Liftgate Handle: Service and Repair Tailgate Handle Tailgate Handle Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the tailgate. - Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Remove the tailgate lower trim panel. 2. Disconnect the tailgate opener rods (A) on both sides from the tailgate handle (B). 3. Remove the screws, then remove the tailgate handle (A). 4. Install the tailgate handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure opener rod is connected securely. - Make sure the tailgate locks and opens properly. Page 3075 81. Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) Page 3114 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 1366 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 1234 Disclaimer Page 8272 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 2927 Comprehensive Component Monitor and Readiness Code This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or running. Page 6272 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 7755 179. Power Mirror Switch (EX; Canada: DX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 8504 Key Cylinder Lamp: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Light Test 1. Remove the steering column upper and lower covers. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector. 3. The LED should come on when power is connected to the No. 6 terminal and ground is connected to No. 5 terminal. 4. If the LED does not come on, replace the steering lock assembly. Page 256 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions: - Replace the ECM/PCM or disconnect its connector. - Reset the ECM/PCM. NOTE: Erasing DTCs with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure. Procedure: 1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.,) are off. 2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 °F (90 °C). 3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes. Page 8380 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 541 Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 4721 6. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line. Page 5289 2. Clear the SRS DTC memory. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check that the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. ^ If the SRS indicator goes off and the DTC does not return, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE and replace the appropriate rear door harness. ^ If the SRS indicator stays on and the DTC returns, this bulletin may not apply. Follow the service manual procedure to troubleshoot the DTC. Refer to page 23-46 for SRS DTC 3-1, or page 23-60 for SRS DTC 4-1 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual. NOTE: The conditions that cause the resistance in C771 or C761 to trigger DTC 3-1 or DTC 4-1 are intermittent and difficult to repeat. If the code returns after it is cleared, it is likely that there is another problem in the system. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the rear side area trim panel: ^ Refer to page 20-60 of the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords REAR TRIM, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Side Area from the list. 2. Remove the rear door panel: ^ Refer to page 20-19 of the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords REAR PANEL, then select Rear Door Panel Removal/Installation from the list. 3. Disconnect the rear door subharness from the floor wire harness. NOTE: The left rear door harness is shown; the right rear door harness is similar. 4. Remove the rear door hinge lower cover. Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner housing. 2. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 3. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 4. Remove the ATF pipe (B), ATF joint pipes (C), O-rings (D), and gasket (E). 5. Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the transmission housing. 6. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and ATF joint pipes. 7. Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect it securely. 10. Install the air cleaner housing. Page 8518 License Plate Lamp: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 2909 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) (Part 1) Page 8393 Dome Lamp: Testing and Inspection Ceiling Light Test/Replacement 1. Turn the light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small screwdriver. 3. Remove the two mounting screws. 4. Disconnect the 3P connector (B) from the housing (C). 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb. If the bulb is OK, replace the ceiling light assembly. Page 5682 13. Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector (A). 14. Remove the feed line (B) on the P/S line mounting bracket (C), and move it aside. 15. Remove the body stiffener (A). 16. Remove the two 10 mm flange bolts (A) and washers (B) from the left side of gearbox. Page 6102 Page 431 114. Right Side Of Tailgate Page 117 How to Identify Connector Terminals Page 2702 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) Part 2 PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Key: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 1812 4. Install the cam chain on the VTC actuator and the exhaust camshaft sprocket with the punch marks (A) aligned with the center of the two colored pieces (B). 5. Install the cam chain guide A (A) and tensioner arm (B). 6. Install the auto-tensioner. Page 1342 Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Connector Disconnection / Connection Disconnecting System Connectors Before removing a front airbag, side airbag, or other SRS related devices (the SRS unit, the cable reel, the front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, the seat belt buckle tensioners, and the seat belt tensioner connector), disconnecting connectors from related devices, or removing the dashboard or the steering column, disconnect the airbag connectors or the side airbag connectors to prevent accidental deployment. Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures. - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector A (1) from the SRS unit, disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3), the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (4), the driver's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (6), and the front passenger's seat belt tensioner 2P connector (7). - Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B (8) from the SRS unit, disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (11, 12), and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (9, 10). - Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (2), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (3). - Before disconnecting the floor wire harness 4P connector (5), disconnect both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors (6, 7). 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes. Driver's Airbag Page 7818 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Alarm Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Page 6937 Multiplex Control System - Circuit Diagram Part 2 Page 7817 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 6394 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 3745 5. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HDS tablet. 6. In the HDS Tablet Programming screen, click on the check mark after programming is completed. 7. In the Updating Honda Control Modules screen, click on the check mark. NOTE: To avoid permanent control module damage, do not turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) during the update. 8. When updating is complete, follow the screen prompts to turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and then to ON (II). To update another system, return to the Updating Honda Control Modules screen by clicking on the exit button on the right side of the screen. UPDATING WITH THE HIM Page 1069 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 3128 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair Navigation System: Technical Service Bulletins Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair 06-001 February 26, 2010 Applies To: 1998 and Later Models - ALL Audio, Navigation, and RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange and Out-of-Warranty Repair (Supersedes 06-601, dated March 4, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Under OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR, the address for Pioneer Electronics Service was changed.* COVERAGE This bulletin applies to all Honda audio units, CD players/changers, cassette tape players, navigation units, and rear entertainment system (RES) units, both in warranty and out of warranty. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT POLICY Use only remanufactured components for warranty repairs on customer vehicles. Follow the warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin. ^ Remanufactured audio, navigation, and RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs. ^ Use new components to repair new, unsold vehicles. ^ A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured component is currently unavailable from American Honda. ^ You must receive authorization from your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) before ordering a new component. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: From the Flat Rate Manual Flat Rate Time: From the Flat Rate Manual Failed Part: Use the RM part number from the repair order without the RM (example: 08A06-341-110) Defect Code: From the Flat Rate Manual Symptom Code: From Audio Customer Contention Codes in the Flat Rate Manual Part used for repair: Use the RM part number from the repair order (example: 08A06-341-110RM) IN-WARRANTY DIAGNOSIS Service Advisor: Interview the customer to get as much information as possible. Information like where and when the problem occurs is vital to your diagnosis. This information also helps you to determine if the audio, navigation, or RES system is operating normally, or if a problem exists. Write the complaint on the repair order. NOTE: For CD/DVD related problems, you must verify if the customer used discs with adhesive labels. Service Technician: Page 543 Fuel Gauge Sender: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Test NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram. 1. Check the No.10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Do the gauge drive circuit check. - If the fuel gauge needle moves from the minimum to maximum position and then returns to the minimum position, the gauge is OK. Go to step 3. - If the fuel gauge needle does not move as stated above, replace the gauge assembly and retest. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Remove the center console both track floor covers, and both door sill trims. 5. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 6. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 7. Measure voltage between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery voltage. - If the voltage is OK, go to step 8. - If the voltage is not as specified, check for: a short in the YEL/BLK wire to ground. - an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK/WHT wire. - poor ground (G 551). 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 30 seconds, then reinstall it. Page 8263 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 6629 Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter This transmitter is no longer available. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 97-99 EV Plus With Factory-Installed Security System 1997-99 EV Plus with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only through Tech Line. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 00-04 Insight With Factory-Installed Keyless Entry System 2000-04 Insight with factory-installed keyless entry system Page 6872 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 4465 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 7601 Paint: Application and ID Paint Code and Color Label Location Paint Code Vehicle Identification Number Page 5337 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 6201 2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (B) from the cable reel. Front Passenger's Airbag 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from dashboard wire harness B. Side Airbag 4. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner Page 3470 Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire. Service and Repair Arm Rest: Service and Repair Front Seat Armrest Replacement - Driver's Seat/Passenger's Seat NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers. For Some Models 1. Unzip the armrest cover (A), and pull back the armrest cover. 2. Remove the nut, the wave washer (B), and the washer (C), then remove the armrest (D). If necessary, remove the bushings (E) from the armrest. 3. Remove the bolts, then remove the armrest bracket (A). 4. Install the armrest in the reverse order of removal. Page 8247 Page 2614 186. DLC Page 1017 183. Wiper/Washer Switch Page 322 Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Relieving With the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve fuel pressure from the system by stopping the fuel pump with the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). 1. Remove the fuel fill Gap. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. From the inspection menu of the Honda PGM Tester or HDS, select Fuel Pump OFF, start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. NOTE: Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the ECM/PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump. - A DTC or a temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them as needed. 5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 6. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 7. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean if it needed. 8. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). Page 8527 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2538 Idle Speed: Specifications Engine idle Idle speed without load M/T in neutral ....................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 700 ± 50 rpm A/T in N or P position ................................................. ........................................................................................................................... 700 ± 50 rpm Idle speed with high electric load (A/C switch ON, temperature set to Max Cool, blower fan on High, rear window defogger ON, and headlights on high beam) M/T in neutral ....................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 720 ± 50 rpm A/T in N or P position ................................................. ........................................................................................................................... 720 ± 50 rpm Page 1916 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. Page 4899 30. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Page 6645 Page 5749 In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 51391-SCV-A02 H/C 8866089 Defect Code: 02101 Symptom Code: 04201 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS Listen for clanking or knocking in the front suspension while driving over bumps: ^ If you hear the noise, or see that the bushing is cracked, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. ^ If you don't hear the noise, continue with normal troubleshooting. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the front wheels. 3. Remove the flange nut while holding the joint pin with a hex wrench, and disconnect the stabilizer link from the lower arm. NOTE: Use a new flange nut during reassembly. Page 4610 (A/T) Page 5316 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 3110 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 5861 4. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) from the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Install the hub (A) and backing plate (B) on the new bearing unit (c) using the special tools and a hydraulic press. Be careful not to deform the backing plate. NOTE: (with ABS) Remove any oil, grease, dust, or other foreign material from the encoder surface (D). - Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. - Be careful not to damage the encoder surface. 7. Install the bearing unit (A) and knuckle (B). Page 7103 12. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you while you position the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Let the cutter bit cut into the key blank, then stop. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 13. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the original key. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the key blank.) Working from right to left, follow the right edge of the original key from head to tip, then the left edge of the key from tip to head. Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Reposition the tracer on the right edge of the original key at its head, using the clamp carriage lever. Turn on the cutter motor. Retrace the key from head to tip, then from tip to head. (This retracing cleans up the cuts on the key.) Turn off the cutter motor. 15. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove only the new key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris, then turn the new key over and slide the key with its blank side up into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key into place. 16. Turn on the cutter motor, and repeat steps 12 thru 14 to cut both edges of the other side of the key. 17. When you are finished making the required cuts, turn off the cutter motor, and release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaws, and remove the keys. 18. Use a wire brush to smooth the cut surfaces on the new key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and all the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key blank you have used, do this: ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). Cutting Procedure - By Code 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it to the right until the bottom left side is flush with the base edge. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. Page 5688 15. Tighten the 14 mm flare nut (A) to specified torque and the adjustable hose clamp (B). 16. Reinstall the engine wire harness clamp and clip (A) to the mounting brackets. 17. Install the P/S heat baffle plate (A). Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Diagram Information and Instructions Dome Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 8619 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 5428 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 728 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM/PCM. The TP sensor is not available separately from the throttle body. Page 3787 Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Diagrams 25. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A 26. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B 27. A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Page 2281 Engine Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the ECM/PCM How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM/PCM Special Tools Required - Digital Multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter - Backprobe Set 07SAZ-001000A (2) 1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and connect the cords to a digital multimeter (C). 2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it touches the end of the wire terminal. 3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed (A), disconnect the connector and probe the terminals (B) from the terminal side. Do not force the probe into the connector. NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections. Page 5458 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 5153 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 300 NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against its bracket before torquing the Torx bolts. 2. Reinstall the dashboard center lower cover. 3. Reconnect the driver's and front passenger's airbag connectors. 4. Reconnect the side airbag connectors. 5. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 6. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 7. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 6707 Page 1085 Alignment: Specifications Trim Height Honda Motor Company does not list ride height/trim height specifications. Page 5995 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 8521 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 8023 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 8031 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 2674 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Page 8516 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 7399 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 5097 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 446 4. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B) on the pedal arm). Then, turn the switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.4 to 3.0 mm (0.016 - 0.118 inch) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released. 5. Check the brake pedal free play. Pedal Free Play 1. With the engine off, inspect the play (A) on the pedal pad (B) by pushing the pedal by hand. Free Play: 1 - 5 mm (1/16 - 3/16 inch) 2. If the pedal free play is out of specification, adjust the brake pedal position switch (C). If the pedal free play is insufficient, it may result in brake drag. Locations Crankshaft Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 120. Right Side Of Engine Compartment Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Page 845 SRS Component Location Index Diagrams Page 3860 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). Page 5433 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8217 Fuel Gauge Sender: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Fuel sender wrench 07XAA-001010A 1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the fuel till cap. 3. Remove the center console, both track floor covers, and both sill trims. 4. Fold back floor covering until the access panel is accessible. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor. 5. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B). 6. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (C) from the fuel tank unit. 7. Using the special tool, loosen the fuel pump sending assembly locknut (A). Specifications Fuel: Specifications fuel ....................................................................................................................................................... ................................ 86 unleaded octane or higher Page 1857 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 2495 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 8346 Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Testing and Inspection Daytime Running Lights Control Unit Input Test - Canada 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the daytime running lights control unit(B). 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. Page 3453 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Knock Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the knock sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the knock sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 380 Power Window Control Module: Programming and Relearning Power Window Control Unit Reset Resetting the power window control unit is required after performing the following procedures: - Loss of battery power - Loss of power from the No. 23 (20A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box - Open circuit caused by disconnecting the 14P connector from the power window master switch. 1. Make sure the driver's window does not work in AUTO with the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Start the engine. 3. Lower the driver's window all the way down by pushing the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO DOWN); when the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO DOWN position for 2 seconds. 4. Raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping by pulling the driver's power window switch to the UP position; when the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the UP position 2 seconds. 5. If the window does not work in AUTO, repeat Step 2 through 5. Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Keyless Entry Transmitter: Customer Interest Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Page 3341 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 673 Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Service and Repair IAT Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the IAT sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the IAT sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 7339 Trim Panel: Removal and Replacement Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Side Area Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Side Area Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program. NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. 1. Remove these items, then remove the trim as shown: - Rear trim panel - Door sill trim - Rear seat - Rear seat striker 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Make sure the seat belt is not pinched. - Apply liquid thread lock to the rear seat belt lower anchor bolt before installation. - Before installing the anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt. - Push the clips into place securely. Trim Removal/Installation - Door Areas Trim Removal/Installation - Door Areas Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: Page 8686 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 1720 Drive Belt: Service and Repair Drive Belt Replacement 1. Move the auto-tensioner (A) to relieve tension from the drive belt, and remove the drive belt. 2. Install the new belt in the reverse order of removal. Page 824 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Diagram Information and Instructions Brake Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Front Impact Sensor Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Front Impact Sensor Front Impact Sensor Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector , the front passenger's airbag 4P connector, both seat belt tensioner 2P connectors, and both seat belt buckle 4P connectors. 3. Remove the front inner fender. 4. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (A), remove the two Torx bolts (B) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the front impact sensor(C). Installation 1. Install the new front impact sensor with new Torx bolts (A), then connect the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact sensor(C). 2. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 3. After installing the front impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. Page 44 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 6846 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 1116 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. Specifications Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Removal 1. Remove the cam chain. 2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) actuator mounting bolt and exhaust camshaft sprocket mounting bolt. 3. If the VTC actuator will be reused, do the following steps. 1 Remove the intake camshaft, and seal the advance holes and retard holes in the No.1 camshaft journal with tape. 2 Punch a hole in the tape over one of the advance holes. 3 Apply air to the advance hole to release the lock. 4 Remove the tape from the No. 1 camshaft journal. 4. Remove the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket. Installation 1. Install the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket. NOTE: Install the VTC actuator in the unlocked position. 2. Apply engine oil to the threads of the VTC actuator mounting bolt and exhaust camshaft mounting bolt, then install them. 3. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then tighten the bolts. Specified torque VTC actuator mounting bolt: 113 Nm (11.5 kgf-m, 83 ft. lbs.) Exhaust camshaft sprocket mounting bolt: 72 Nm (7.3 kgf-m, 53 ft. lbs.) 4. Hold the camshaft, and turn the VTC actuator clockwise until you hear it click. 5. Install the cam chain. Page 7201 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 3815 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Update the PCM How to Update the PCM NOTE: ^ To ensure the latest program is installed, update a PCM whenever the PCM is substituted or replaced. You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. ^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. To prevent PCM damage, do not operate any electrical system; audio system, brakes, air conditioning, power windows, moonroof, and door locks, during the update. ^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the DLC. This will prevent PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the Honda interface module (HIM) to the DLC located under the left end of the dash. 3. Update the PCM according to the procedures described on the HIM label. If the software in the PCM is the latest, replace the PCM. Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Remove the cover (A), then remove the set/resume/ cancel switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. - If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control actuator input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit. - If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch. Page 2712 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Updating the ECM/PCM ECM/PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing Special Tools Required Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570 Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not already have the latest software loaded. NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF, the ECM/PCM can be damaged. How to Update the ECM/PCM NOTE: - To ensure the latest program is installed, do an ECM/PCM update whenever the ECM/PCM is substituted or replaced. - You can not update an ECM/PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. - Before you update the ECM/PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. - To prevent ECM/PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power windows, door locks, etc.) during the update. - If you need to diagnose the Honda Interface Module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent ECM/PCM damage. 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS or Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of dashboard. 3. Do the ECM/PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label and in the ECM/PCM update system. 4. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. 5. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure, if you did the trouble shooting for DTC P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0335, or P0339. How to Substitute the ECM/PCM 1. Remove the ECM/PCM from the vehicle. 2. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the vehicle. 3. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure from the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS; It allows you to start the engine. 4. After completing your tests, reinstall the original ECM/PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure on the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Page 760 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 92. CMP Sensor A 93. CMP Sensor B Page 5038 Starting System Component Location Index Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Alarm Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Page 2774 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Description and Operation PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2 The PGM-FI relay consists of two separate relays. PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running. Page 24 Alarm Module: Diagrams 161. Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver 195. Security Control Unit (Honda Accessory) Fan Motor Testing Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Testing and Inspection Fan Motor Testing Test 1. Disconnect the 2P connectors from the radiator fan motor and condenser fan motor. 2. Test the motor by connecting battery power to the B terminal and ground to the A terminal. 3. If the motor fails to run or does not run smoothly, replace it. Page 4421 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Page 4368 (A/T) Page 3800 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). 11. Remove the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (C), then disconnect the connector. 12. Connect the battery positive terminal to O/D switch/ shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 3, and connect the battery negative terminal to connector terminal No. 4. Do not connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal No. 4 or you will damage the diode inside the solenoid. 13. Check that the shift lever can be moved from the P position. Release the battery terminals, move the shift lever back to the P, and make sure it locks. 14. If the shift lock solenoid works properly, connect the connector, and install the removed parts. If the shift lock solenoid is faulty, go to step 15, and replace the shift lock solenoid. 15. Remove the shift lever assembly. Page 859 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 2169 Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 236 204. ECM/PCM Page 4385 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 6719 ^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment. ^ REL/BOR - Your order has been picked, packed, and shipped. ^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account. CORE RETURN INFORMATION Service Technician: 1. If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, or cassette tape) is stuck inside the faulty unit, fill out a Customer Media Return Label (reorder number Y0325), and attach it to the unit. The manufacturer will remove the media, and mail it back to your dealership. 2. Use the pre paid shipping label. Each audio supplier provides a prepaid shipping label with the remanufactured audio unit. Return the core using this label to ensure it is received at the appropriate location for credit. Use the pre paid shipping labels to return audio cores to authorized locations only; do not use them for any other purpose. If you need additional prepaid shipping labels, contact Remanufactured Parts Operations. ^ Complete the shipping label with your dealership information. ^ Pack one audio unit per box, and use a separate shipping label for each one. ^ On the line requesting Your Internal Reference Information, enter YOUR DEALER NUMBER and the WARRANTY CLAIM NUMBER. 3. On the repair order, write down the warranty claim number, the original part number, the serial numbers from both the faulty and remanufactured units, and the return tracking number. 4. Ship the faulty unit in the same box the remanufactured unit came in. Make sure you include this required paperwork: ^ A copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement from the iN. ^ A copy of the warranty audio order. NOTE: When the Remanufacturing Center gets the faulty unit, your warranty audio order will be updated to indicate that the core was received. If the core is received 31-60 days from the order date, and you have been debited a core loss charge, your dealership will be credited back, less a $250 late fee. OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, AND RES UNITS PRODUCED IN 1998 OR LATER) NOTE: If you are making a repair or exchange because of a service bulletin or service campaign, do not use OUT-OF-WARRANTY procedures. Refer to IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE for more information. Service Advisor: 1. Give your customer an estimate for repairing the unit (see step 6), plus the labor cost to replace it. For an Alpine unit, your customer has the option of contacting Alpine Electronics directly. Alpine's customer service number is 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304. Service Technician: 2. Remove the failed unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or, Page 6905 Page 8622 Marker Lamp: Connector Views 67. Side Marker Light, Left Front 68. Side Marker Light, Right Front Page 2443 Page 7687 ^ Online, enter keyword FRONT ARMREST, and select Front Seat Armrest Replacement - Driver's Seat from the list. 5. Remove the front seat-back cover far enough to access the cover's top mounting springs, but do not remove the side airbag: ^ Refer to page 20-92 of the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER REP, and select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list. NOTE: On DX and LX models, you must entirely remove the seat-back cover and all of the mounting springs. On EX models, you can unzip the back cover, disconnect the upper two springs, and pull it forward. 6. Pull back the seat-back foam, and apply the 40 x 120 mm wool felt strips to the front edge of both sides of the seat frame. Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 2867 DTC P0401 thru P0562 Page 7962 Cruise Control Switch: Diagrams 136. Cruise Control Main Switch (EX; '04-'06 USA: LX) 137. Cruise Control Set/Resume/Cancel Switch (EX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 5706 76. Push the cylinder (A) into the gearbox housing (B) so the notch (C) is aligned with the pin (D) inside of the gearbox housing. 77. Tighten the lock screw (A) by hand first, then install the special tool (B) on the lock screw. Lightly tighten the lock screw. Do not tighten the lock screw to specified torque yet. 78. Remove the special tool. 79. Coat the new O-ring (A) with power steering grease, and carefully fit it on the valve housing. 80. Apply power steering grease to the needle bearing (B) in the gearbox housing, then install the valve body unit (C) by engaging the gears. Note the valve body unit installation position (direction of the line connections). Tighten the flange bolts (D) to the specified torque. Page 4159 6. Coat the valve with ATF, then drop it into its bore. It should drop to the bottom of the bore under its own weight. If not, repeat step 4, then retest. If the valve still sticks, replace the valve body. 7. Remove the valve, and thoroughly clean it and the valve body with solvent. Dry all parts with compressed air, then reassemble using ATF as a lubricant. Valve Body Valve Installation 1. Coat all parts with ATF before assembly. 2. Install the valves and springs in the sequence shown for the main valve body, regulator valve body, and servo body. Refer to the following valve cap illustrations, and install each valve cap so the end shown facing up will be facing the outside of the valve body. 3. Install all the springs and seats. Insert the spring (A) in the valve, then install the valve in the valve body (B). Push the spring in with a screwdriver, then install the spring seat (C). Main Valve Body Disassembly, Inspection, and Reassembly 1. Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all passages. Page 6280 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Page 1088 - If adjustment is required, go to step 3. 3. Hold the adjusting bolt (A) on the rear trailing arm, and loosen the self-locking nut (B). NOTICE: Do not loosen the special bolts (c) on the trailing arm. 4. Adjust the rear toe by turning the adjusting bolt until the toe is correct. 5. Tighten the self-locking nut while holding the adjusting bolt. Turning Angle Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Turn the wheel right and left while applying the brake, and measure the turning angle of both wheels. 2. If the turning angle is not within the specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Page 6454 Seat Belt Buckle: Service and Repair Rear Seat Belt Buckle Rear Seat Belt Replacement NOTE: Check the rear seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to damage them during removal and installation. Seat Belt Buckle NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers. 1. Pull the rear seat up, and hold it with the strap. 2. Detach the hooks (A) and clip, then remove the inner support cover (B). 3. Remove the center anchor bolt (A), and pull the seat belt buckle (B) out, then remove it. Page 8261 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 2991 Electric Load Sensor: Locations PGI-FI System - Component Location Index Page 1506 Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub disassembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 - Driver 07749-0010000 - Support base 07965-SD90100 Knuckle Replacement 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Page 1556 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 7776 Page 5197 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5220 192. C559 (Junction Connector) 196. C105 (Junction Connector) Page 5587 6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C. 7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. REPAIR PROCEDURE C 1. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops. ^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops. ^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is centered. ^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2. 2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle. 3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your adjustment. Page 7388 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 1030 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 1322 Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications Refrigerant type ................................................................................................................................... ................................................ HFC-134a (R-134a) Lubricant type: DENSO: ND-OI L8 (P/N 38897-PR7-A01AH or 38899-PR7-A01) A/F Sensor Replacement Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair A/F Sensor Replacement A/F Sensor Replacement Special Tools Required O2 sensor wrench, Snap-on YA8875, SP Tools 93750, or equivalent, commercially available 1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A), then remove the A/F sensor (B). 2. Install the A/F sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 6701 Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem or if I have technical questions about the unit? Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access code, then call Tech Line: 1. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE. 2. Select Tech Line. A dropdown menu appears, then select Tech Line. The ISIS main screen appears. 3. Select SEARCH BY VEHICLE, and enter any vehicle with any keyword like NAVI, AUDIO, or RES. 4. At the top of the screen you will see this statement: If you cannot resolve the problem with the information below, then click Tech Line. Select Tech Line. 5. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT. 6. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line. Question: Do I need a Tech Line reference number to order a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit? Answer: No. Question: What year and model audio/navigation/RES unit can I order through the warranty audio order program? Answer: Most current models are available through the vehicle's standard warranty period. If your application is not available, you will receive a message instructing you to call the Re manufactured Parts Dealer Service Group at 888-997-7278. Question: How can I track my order once I submit it? Answer: To track your order, go the Warranty Audio Order VIN Inquiry screen on the iN. 1. From the iN main menu, click on PARTS. 2. Click on Parts Ordering. 3. Click on Audio VIN Inquiry. 4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, then click on Submit. The AUDIO VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD REF (Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER. The status of your order is displayed by one of these codes: Codes generated by RPO Tech Line: ^ PEND - Your order is waiting to be processed by RPO Tech Line. ^ HOLD - Your order is waiting for additional dealer diagnosis. ^ ERR - Your order caused an error; call. ^ DENY - RPO Tech Line denied your order; call. ^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts. Codes generated by AHM Parts Division: ^ BO/TOS - Your order is on back order or is temporarily out of stock. ^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled contact your assigned parts center. Page 5539 NOTE: Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite direction after you swapped the front tires. 1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2. 2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again. ^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3. ^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis. 3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. REPAIR PROCEDURE B Page 257 Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Monitors, Trips, and/or Drive Cycle (Readiness Codes) Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Enable Criteria - Battery voltage is higher than 10.5 V. - With idle. - ECT sensor between 176 °F (80 °C) and 212 °F (100 °C). - MAP sensor less than 46.6 kPa (350 mmHg, 14 in.Hg). - Vehicle speed 0 mph (0 km/h). - IAT sensor between 32 °F (0 °C) and 212 °F (100 °C). Procedure 1. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC). 2. Start the engine. 3. Select EVAP TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS, then select the FUNCTION TEST in the EVAP TEST MENU. If they are normal, readiness is complete. - If they are not normal, go to the next step. 4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met; repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Monitor and Readiness Code NOTE: - Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure. - All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Enable Criteria ECT at 140 °F (60 °C) or higher. Procedure 1. Start the engine. 2. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 3. Check the readiness codes screen for Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor in the DTCs MENU with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. - If the screen shows complete, readiness is complete. - If the screen shows not complete, go to the next step. 4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was probably not met. Select the DATA LIST Menu. Check the ECT in the ALL DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. If the ECT is lower than 140 °F (60 °C) , run the engine until it is higher than 140 °(60 °C), then repeat the procedure. Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Monitor Readiness Code NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Procedure 1. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch from incomplete to complete. 2. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, repeat the procedure. Misfire Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously monitored. - Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over a rough road. - Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria. Fuel System Monitor and Readiness Code - This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is continuously monitored during closed loop operation. - Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and A/F sensor monitors are active. - Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met. Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met. Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 Oil Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Replace VTEC Oil Pressure Switch for DTC P2646, P2647 APPLIES TO: 03-05 Accord 4-cylinder 03-05 Element 02-05 CR-V SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop with either of these DTCs? - DTC P2646 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit low voltage) - DTC P2647 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit high voltage) Replacing the VTEC oil pressure switch usually fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then press on with normal troubleshooting. Music Link(R) - System Information/Diagnostics Technical Service Bulletin # 07-012 Date: 070216 Music Link(R) - System Information/Diagnostics 07-012 February 16, 2007 Applies To: ALL - with accessory Music Link installed Music Link (For iPod) General Information and Symptom Troubleshooting BACKGROUND Honda Music Link is a Honda accessory designed to let the customer play music from an Apple(R) ipod(R) through the vehicle's audio system. The basic Music Link kit includes the Music Link interface unit, an audio unit bus cable, the Music Link harness, a CD-ROM, and the Quick Reference Guide. The CD-ROM includes a detailed User's Guide and some optional ITS (text-to-speech) software that lets the customer play music by playlist, artist, album, or genre. ^ The CD-ROM is for home computer use only. Do not insert it into a vehicle CD player. ^ Quick Reference Guides, User's Guides, and the latest TTS software versions can be downloaded from http://musiclink.honda.com. ^ For customer assistance and questions regarding TTS software loading, have the customer contact American Honda's Automobile Customer Service Department. The GENERAL INFORMATION section of this service bulletin covers these subjects: ^ Music Link iPod Information Resources ^ Resources for Installation Instructions ^ Music Link First-Use Information ^ iPod Reset Procedure Information The TROUBLESHOOTING section includes troubleshooting for these symptoms: ^ Check mark is not shown on the iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode. ^ Static, or weak or no volume over speakers only in Music Link mode. ^ Music Link has no sound, check mark is shown on the iPod display screen. ^ Music Link has no sound, the disc number and track number flashes on the audio display. ^ Check mark is shown on the iPod display screen, radio will not switch to CD-C or CD-4 mode. ^ iPod music and XM radio music play at the same time (Pilot). ^ Music Link will not do Disc 1-4 search functions. ^ Artist is not categorized in the correct grouping when using (Disc 2) search function. ^ Song/artist is not categorized in the correct grouping when using Disc 1-4 search functions. PARTS INFORMATION Bus Harness: P/N 08-8-1H1-10030, H/C 8387060 Music Link Harness: P/N 08-8-1H1-10031, H/C 8387052 2-Port Bus Harness: Page 8479 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 3580 18. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 19. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 20. Remove the O/D switch harness clamp from the shift lever bracket and from the harness, and pull the O/D switch harness out to remove the shift lever assembly. 21. Insert the new O/D switch harness (A) into the shift lever ring (B), and route the harness through the groove (C) of the shift lever (D) into the hole (E). Do not pinch the harness. 22. Wind the O/D switch harness (A) one turn around the clamp (B) on the bottom of the shift lever. 23. Install the harness clamp (C) at the reference tape (D) on the harness, then install the clamp in the hole (E) of the shift lever bracket (F). Page 5976 Cabin Air Filter: Service and Repair Dust and Pollen Filter Replacement With Air Conditioning The dust and pollen filters should be replaced every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 2 years whichever comes first. Replace the filters more often if the air flow is less than usual, or if the vehicle is driven in areas that have high concentrations of soot from industry or diesel powered vehicles. 1. Open the glove box. Remove the glove box stop on each side, then hang the glove box down. 2. Remove the filter lid (A) from the blower unit, then pull out the first dust and pollen filter (B). Slide the second filter to the left, and pull it out. 3. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter. 4. Install the filters in the reverse order of removal. Page 2781 13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 15. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P) and the Honda PGM Tester or HDS. 16. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E29 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E29) and the DLC. NO - Go to step 17. 17. Disconnect the gauge assembly connector B(16P). 18. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E31 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E31) and the gauge assembly. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 19. Try to start the engine. Does the engine start? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Go to step 26. 20. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Locations Clutch Switch: Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 1842 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 7024 Rear Door Latch: Service and Repair Rear Door Lower Latch Replacement Rear Door Lower Latch Replacement SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before performing repairs or service. NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 3. Remove these items: - Door panel - Front seat belt, retractor, and seat belt protector - Plastic cover, as necessary 4. Detach the harness clips (A). Disconnect the lower latch switch connector (B), and detach it. 5. Remove the screws from under the door. 6. Pull the lower latch (A) up, and disconnect the lower latch cable (B) in the sequence shown. Remove the vinyl tape (C) from the cable and wire harness. Take care not to kink the cable. 7. Remove the lower latch. 8. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the connector is plugged in properly, and cable is connected securely. - Make sure the door locks and opens properly. Page 2745 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 989 74. Driver's Door 79. Front Passenger's Door Page 7025 - Apply liquid thread lock to the anchor bolts before reinstallation. - Before installing the anchor bolts, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. - Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. - Enter the anti4heft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. - Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. Page 1051 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Page 5326 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 8592 Page 996 Power Window Switch: Testing and Inspection Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement Passenger's Window Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Remove the switch panel. 3. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the front passenger's power window switch (B). 4. Remove the two screws and the passenger's power window switch. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 6. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Service and Repair Trunk / Liftgate Shock / Support: Service and Repair Hatch Support Strut Replacement 1. With the help of an assistant, use a flat-tip screwdriver (A) to pry the support strut clips (B) from each end of the support strut (C) at the hatch and body, then release the support strut from the pivot bolts (D). Do not remove the clips from the support strut. 2. Remove the bolts, then remove the bracket (A) from the hatch, and remove the pivot bolt (B). 3. Set the clips (A) to the original position, then reattach the support strut (B) on the pivot bolts (C) by pushing on the support strut. Page 3280 Fuel Line Coupler: Service Precautions Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fittings Precaution The fuel line/quick-connect fittings connect the fuel rail (A) to fuel feed hose (B), fuel feed hose (B) to the fuel feed hose (C), the fuel feed hose (C) to the fuel line (D),, the fuel line (E) to the fuel tank unit (F) and the fuel vapor line (G) to the EVAP canister (H). When removing or installing the fuel feed hose, fuel tank unit, or fuel tank, it is necessary to disconnect or connect the quick-connect fittings. Pay attention to the following: - The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, fuel vapor line, and quick-connect fittings are not heat-resistant; be careful not to damage them during welding or other heat-generating procedures. - The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, fuel vapor line, and quick-connect fittings are not acid-proof; do not touch them with a shop towel that was used for wiping battery electrolyte. Replace them if they came into contact with electrolyte or something similar. Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) Oxygen Sensor: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) 03-027 May 6, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Accord L4 2-door- From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A020275 2003 Accord L4 4-door- From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A071758 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C073601 2003 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1...3L006131 2003 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...3L000001 thru 5J6YH2...3L014546 MIL Comes On With DTC P2A00 (P2900) SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P2A00 (P2900)* [Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range Performance Problem]. * If you use the PGM Tester to retrieve codes, you may see DTC P2900; it's the same as DTC P2A00. PROBABLE CAUSE The air fuel ratio sensor is faulty. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for DTC P2A00 (P2900). If P2A00 (P2900) is present, replace the air fuel ratio sensor, and clear the DTC. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 36531-RAA-A01 H/C 7136187 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C99 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. PARTS INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or the PGM Tester to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector), and check for DTCs. Page 3358 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 585 89. Right Rear Door 90. Right Rear Door Page 4947 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 3087 Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation Throttle Position (TP) Sensor The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM/PCM. The TP sensor is not available separately from the throttle body. Page 4103 12. Apply silicone grease to the shift lever button (A) and push rod (B) of the shift lever (C), and install the spring (D), shift lever button, and shift lever knob (E). Install the screws (F) to secure the shift lever knob to the shift lever. 13. Install the O/D switch (G) and the O/D switch cover (H), and install the A/T gear position indicator panel (I) on the shift lever bracket. 14. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket. 15. Install BLU/RED harness terminal (A) of the shift lock solenoid in the No. 3 cavity, and BLK harness terminal (B) in the No. 4 cavity. 16. Install the O/D switch harness terminals (C) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either O/D switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 17. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (D) securely in place. 18. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 3928 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Page 8596 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 3345 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5228 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Locations 111. Middle Side Of Hatch Alignment Alignment: Specifications Alignment Page 5585 1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and record the following measurements. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Enter each reading in decimal degrees. Example 30' = 0.50. 2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis. 3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination: NOTE: ^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right). ^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left). 4. Determine how the camber needs to be adjusted. 5. Adjust the camber as needed. Front Camber Adjustment, Double Wishbone Suspension Page 5552 DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET REPAIR PROCEDURE A Page 7539 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 708 Oxygen Sensor: Diagrams 112. A/F Sensor 123. Secondary HO2S Page 6829 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 8464 Wire Color Codes Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC's 3-1 or 4-1 Set Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC's 3-1 or 4-1 Set 08-008 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2003-06 Element - ALL SRS Indicator Comes On With SRS DTC 3-1 or 4-1 SYMPTOM The SRS indicator comes on, and SRS DTC 3-1 (open or increased resistance in driver's seat belt tensioner) or SRS DTC 4-1 (open or increased resistance in front passenger's seat belt tensioner) is stored. PROBABLE CAUSE There is resistance in connector C771 (for DTC 3-1) or C761 (for DTC 4-1). The connectors are located between the rear door wire harness and the rear door subharness (C771 on the driver's side, C761 on the passenger's side). CORRECTIVE ACTION Do the diagnosis then, if needed, replace the faulty rear door harness and subharness with an updated one-piece harness. The updated harness does not have connectors C771 or C761. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. Page 1943 Ignition Timing: Testing and Inspection Ignition Timing Inspection 1. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC), and check for DTC's. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair the cause before inspecting the ignition timing. 2. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 3. Check the idle speed. 4. Follow the tester's prompts to get the tester in the "SCS" mode (see the operator's manual). 5. Free the service loop from the wire harness, then connect the timing light to the service loop. 6. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under no load condition: headlights, blower fan, rear window defogger, and air conditioner are not operating. 7. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, update the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the system work properly, and the ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM. 8. Disconnect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS and the timing light. 9. Secure the service loop to the wire harness with wire ties. Page 660 Electric Load Sensor: Description and Operation Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Since the early ’90s, Honda vehicles have come with an electrical load detector (ELD) unit in the under-hood fuse/relay box. This unit allows the ECM/PCM to regulate the alternator (switch it between high output and low output) to provide the best combination of fuel economy and electrical system operation. The ELD sends a signal to the ECM/PCM that is proportional to the electrical demand. The ECM/PCM switches the alternator between high output and low output depending on several factors, which include electrical demand, battery charge level, and the driving cycle. When the alternator is in low output, the engine load is reduced and fuel economy improves. Page 1208 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Front Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Front Removal and Installation Inspection and Replacement CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health. ^ Avoid breathing dust particles. ^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner. Replacement 1. Remove the flange bolt (A). NOTE: The pad springs are installed on the pads to prevent brake drag. Be careful when pivoting up the caliper body fully, or the spring could be flipped out of position. 2. Pivot the caliper slightly so the pads do not come out of position, and hold the pads on both sides firmly with your fingers. Remove the pad springs (A) from the pads. 3. Pivot the caliper up out of the way, and remove the pads (A). 4. Remove the pad shims (B). 5. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration. Page 5498 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4038 16. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 17. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 18. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Page 8496 Interior Lighting Module: Electrical Diagrams Circuit Diagrams Diagram 115-0 Locations Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 6721 - The name as it appears on the credit card - Signature (authorized card holder) - Phone number - Authorized charge amount NOTE: If you send in a faulty unit without a check or complete credit card information, the manufacturer may send it back to you unrepaired, or they may repair it and send it back to you C.O.D. ^ Print two copies of the completed Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form. Keep one copy with the repair order, and include the other copy with the faulty unit when you send it to the manufacturer. 8. Carefully pack the faulty unit and the paperwork in a suitable box, and label the box clearly. You are responsible for lost or damaged units; keep all shipping documents and insurance receipts. 9. Ship the faulty unit to the appropriate manufacturer via UPS. Alpine Electronics of America c/o Standard Radio Engineering Corp. 2012 Abalone Ave., Unit D Torrance, CA 90501 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304 Bose Corporation Automotive Systems Division-Service Framingham, MA 01701-9168 800-231-2673 S3 Clarion Factory Service Center 241 Beaver Rd. Walton, KY 41094 800-347-8667 (You must get authorization from Clarion before shipping units) Fujitsu Ten 19600 5. Vermont Ave. Torrance, CA 90502 800-237-5413 FTH Group Inc. (Kenwood Accessory Parts) 16685 E. Johnson Dr. City of Industry, CA 91745 626-333-2435 (You must get an RMA authorization number from www.fthgroupinc.com; from the home page, select Consumer Products) Komtec Electronics (Panasonic) 6590 Darin Way Cypress, CA 90630 714-903-3300 (Make sure your check is made out to Komtec) * Pioneer Electronics Service, Inc. 1925 E. Dominguez St. Long Beach, CA 90801 800-553-3756* Visteon c/o Model Electronics 615 E. Crescent Ave. Page 4698 199. ABS Modulator-Control Unit (EX) Service and Repair Liftgate Window Glass: Service and Repair Rear Window Replacement NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with piano wire. - Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. - Do not damage the rear window defogger grid lines and terminals. 1. Remove these items: - Hatch trim panel - Rear window wiper motor - High mount brake light 2. Disconnect the rear window defogger connectors (A), and remove the rear window trim (B). 3. If the old glass is to be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the glass and body with a grease pencil. 4. Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the tailgate. Using an awl, make a hole through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at the corner portion of the glass. Push the piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood. 5. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the rear window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the tailgate, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire rear window. 6. Carefully remove the rear window. Page 5196 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 5588 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Body/Frame - Universal Subframe Removal Adapter Subframe: Technical Service Bulletins Body/Frame - Universal Subframe Removal Adapter 05-066 November 24, 2005 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Universal Front Subframe Removal Adapter (Replaces 01-043, Civic Front Sub frame Removal Adapter, dated September 11, 2001) The universal front subframe removal adapter is a required tool. When properly fitted to a transmission jack and the vehicle's front subframe, the adapter provides a convenient way to remove the subframe. Front subframe removal is required for transmission or engine removal. NOTE: The adapter will only support the subframe it will not support the entire powertrain assembly. Refer to the WARNING label on the adapter. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2003-06 Accord - ALL 2005-06 Accord Hybrid - ALL 2001-06 Civic - ALL 2001-06 Civic GX - ALL 2003-06 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2002-06 Civic Si - ALL 2002-06 CRV - ALL 2003-06 Element - ALL ORDERING INFORMATION The universal front subframe removal adapter is TIN VSB02C000016. To order additional adapters, call the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. USING THE ADAPTER NOTE: The adapter is designed to be used with the transmission jack, (new model number NRI-72500D), available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. (The old model number LSL-W93714 can still be used.). The adapter also works with many commercially available transmission jacks. 1. Loosen the four bolts that hold the adapter's adjustable arms to its center plate. Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. TOOL INFORMATION Centering Tape (enough to diagnose 240 vehicles): T/N O7AAJ-001A300 Steering Drift Set Level: T/N 07AAJ-00100 Steering Drift Set: T/N O7MJ-001A140 Replacement Weight for Steering Drift Set: T/N 07AAJ-001A400 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 53560-SDA-AO1 H/C 7139652 Locations Page 6567 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. Component Locations Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Page 1413 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 3241 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. Page 988 Doors - Component Location Index - Front Door Part 1 Page 8674 Locations Starter Relay: Locations Starting System Component Location Index Page 4982 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5839 8. Lower the jack, and remove the trailing arm. 9. Install the trailing arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: ^ First install all the suspension components and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then place a jack under the trailing arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening the bolts and nuts to the specified torque values. ^ Tighten all the mounting hardware to the specified torque values. ^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc/drum and the inside of the wheel. ^ Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 4056 Page 8683 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Locations Page 6592 1997-01 CR-V with dealer-installed security system 1996-97 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1996-98 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system *1999-04 Odyssey LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* 1996-01 Prelude with dealer-installed security system *2000-04 S2000 with dealer-installed security system 2000-04 Insight with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 8639 181. DRL Control Unit (Canada) Page 8535 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 6273 Page 759 23. Left Side Of Engine Page 3740 7. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are for the vehicle you are updating, then click on the check mark. 8. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600. 9. Click on the check mark to begin the control uniti module update. NOTE: To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update. 10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to ON (II). 11. Once the software verifies that the control uniti mod ule has been successfully updated, click on Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on No to exit the update program. GNA600 Updating in Storage Mode 1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading instructions, refer to the ISIS publication Installation Instructions for HDS PC Software. Page 6913 Body Control Systems: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 5332 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 3851 Shift Indicator: Service and Repair A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness Replacement 1. Remove the shift fever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), and remove the bulb from the socket. 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the A/T gear position indicator panel light harness with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light bulb in the socket. 12. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 13. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 4213 ^ If the noise is still present, look for other causes. 7. Test-drive the vehicle to check for proper clutch operation. Disclaimer Page 5937 Blower Motor: Locations Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index 72. Under Right Side Of Dash Page 2390 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Knock Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the knock sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the knock sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 1677 3. Use the crank bore codes and crank journal codes to select the appropriate replacement bearings from the table. NOTE: Color code is on the edge of the bearing. - When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom. Page 5050 8. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. 9. Measure the commutator (A) runout. - If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. - If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. 10. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). Page 2365 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 6661 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 683 103. MAP Sensor Page 3749 the HIM from the vehicle. 7. Connect the PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the HIM. Connect the power supply unit and power supply cord to the HIM. After several seconds, the green and yellow LEDs flash. Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check mark to continue. NOTE: Update the systems one at a time. 8. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark. 9. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this corresponds with any information provided in the service bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM Update software loads the program file onto the HIM. 10. Disconnect the HIM from the PC interface cable. 11. Reconnect the HIM to the vehicle's DLC. 12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Press and release the ENTER button on the HIM. Page 7160 8. Release the clip, detach the hook, and remove the lock rod protector. 9. Disconnect the outer handle rod and cylinder rod. Locations Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4145 Transmission Speed Sensor: Locations Page 2935 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 61 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 321 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 8424 Hazard Warning Flasher: Application and ID PLEASE NOTE: The flasher function for this vehicle is provided by the Turn Signal/Hazard Relay. Page 7163 17. Using a small screwdriver, push down on the tip of the last tumbler to release it, then remove the cylinder from the housing, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. Use your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers in place. Then go to step 20. 18. While turning the key left and right and pushing on the rear of the inner cylinder to release the spring, slowly remove the cylinder from the housing. Page 6213 Air Bag: Service and Repair Airbag Handling and Storage Airbag Handling and Storage Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused. For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions. - Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag. - To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it free from any oil, grease, detergent, or water. - Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding 200 °F / 93 °C). - Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring resistance. Page 6584 Page 4459 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 1947 Ignition System Component Location Index Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC's 3-1 or 4-1 Set Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC's 3-1 or 4-1 Set 08-008 February 5, 2008 Applies To: 2003-06 Element - ALL SRS Indicator Comes On With SRS DTC 3-1 or 4-1 SYMPTOM The SRS indicator comes on, and SRS DTC 3-1 (open or increased resistance in driver's seat belt tensioner) or SRS DTC 4-1 (open or increased resistance in front passenger's seat belt tensioner) is stored. PROBABLE CAUSE There is resistance in connector C771 (for DTC 3-1) or C761 (for DTC 4-1). The connectors are located between the rear door wire harness and the rear door subharness (C771 on the driver's side, C761 on the passenger's side). CORRECTIVE ACTION Do the diagnosis then, if needed, replace the faulty rear door harness and subharness with an updated one-piece harness. The updated harness does not have connectors C771 or C761. PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220 Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information 98-011 February 20, 2004 Applies To: ALL Keyless Remote Transmitter Information (Supersedes 98-011, dated February 6, 2003) Updated information is shown by asterisks and a black bar. This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering, and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below. Page 6529 Antenna: Service and Repair Roof Antenna Replacement 1. Remove the rear part of headliner. 2. Disconnect the antenna lead connector (A) and 1P connector (B) from the roof antenna (C). 3. Remove the mounting nut and the antenna. Page 6895 Diagram 118-2 Page 5819 Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Specifications Rear TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS Damper Shaft Nut ................................................................................................................................ ............................... 29 N.m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 lbf-ft) Upper Flange Nut ............................................................................................................................................................. 74 N.m (7.5 kgf-m, 54 lbs-ft..) Damper Bottom Bolt ............................................................................................................................................................ 93 N.m (9.5 kgf-m, 69 ft-lb) Page 8098 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 7062 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Component Locations Alarm Module: Component Locations 36. In Steering Column Cover 138. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 586 Door Switch: Diagrams 4. Door Switch, Driver's 5. Door Switch, Front Passenger's 38. Door Lower Switch, Left Rear Page 5358 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Page 2019 Locations Auxiliary Power Outlet: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 4284 Wheel Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins Wheel Bearing - Correct Installation To Prevent DTC's SOURCE: Honda Service News February 2003 TITLE: Install Wheel Bearings Correctly to Prevent DTCs APPLIES TO: 2003 Accord, 2002-03 CR-V, 2003 Element SERVICE TIP: When you replace a wheel bearing in a make sure you install it correctly. If you don't, these ABS DTCs can set: - ABS DTC 12, 14, 16, 18 [wheel sensor (electrical noise/intermittent interruption)] - ABS DTC 21, 22, 23, 24 (magnetic encoder) The brown dust shield for the wheel bearing also doubles as a magnetic encoder for the ABS. Before you install the wheel bearing, make sure the encoder is clean and free of metallic particles, then install it so the encoder is toward the inside of the knuckle. Install the encoder carefully so you don't damage its surface. Page 2630 10. Install the new ELD and bus bar. 11. Reinstall the two fuses. 12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the lower cover onto the fuse/relay box. 13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness clip onto the holder. 14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover. 15. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 16. Clear the DTC. 17. *Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. 18. Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.* 19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the clock. Enter the audio unit presets. Disclaimer Page 3373 Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Page 106 Horn Component Location Index Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Diagrams 221. Trailer Unit (Honda Accessory) Locations 33. Left Side Of Dash Page 2661 DTC U0100 thru U1288 Disclaimer Interior - Driver's Seat Rocks While Driving Seat Track: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Driver's Seat Rocks While Driving 03-032 November 3, 2006 *Applies To: 2003-05 Element - ALL 2006 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...6L000001 thru 5J6YH1...6L007635 2006 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...6L000001 thru 5J6YH2...6L012681* Element: Driver's Seat Rocks (Supersedes 03-032, dated June 25, 2004, to update the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) SYMPTOM The driver's seat rocks back and forth during normal driving. PROBABLE CAUSE There are worn bushings in the height adjustment mechanism. CORRECTIVE ACTION Install new seat bushings, nuts, and spacers. *Use brake cleaner to remove grease from any threads before installing the nut.* PARTS INFORMATION Nut With Washer, (six required): P/N 90321-884-999, H/C 7679780 Seat Link Bushing (six required): P/N 90502-53N-013, H/C 6690440 Spacer (three required): P/N 90503-53N-003, H/C 6852578 *REQUIRED MATERIALS Brake Cleaner: P/N 08732-0010, H/C 6985634 (One can repairs four vehicles.)* WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 851138 Flat Rate Time: 0.7 hour Failed Part: P/N 81536-SCV-A51 H/C 7289226 Defect Code: 00503 Symptom Code: 07302 Template ID: 03-032A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Locations Key Reminder Switch: Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index 36. In Steering Column Cover Page 1976 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. A/T - Do Not Remove Torque Converter From Mainshaft Torque Converter: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Do Not Remove Torque Converter From Mainshaft SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Keep Torque Converter on Mainshaft to Avoid Damage APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: We can't emphasize enough how important it is to keep the torque converter in place when you're handling or installing a reman A/T. If the torque converter slips off the mainshaft, and you don't put it back on the shaft exactly right, you could cut the O-ring. This could result in loss of lock-up control and ATF leakage. Page 658 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 Oil Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Replace VTEC Oil Pressure Switch for DTC P2646, P2647 APPLIES TO: 03-05 Accord 4-cylinder 03-05 Element 02-05 CR-V SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop with either of these DTCs? - DTC P2646 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit low voltage) - DTC P2647 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit high voltage) Replacing the VTEC oil pressure switch usually fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then press on with normal troubleshooting. Page 5833 1. Compress the damper spring with a commercially available strut spring compressor (A) according to the manufacturer's instructions, then remove the self-locking nut (B) while holding the damper shaft (C) with a hex wrench (D). Do not compress the spring more than necessary to remove the nut. 2. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the damper as shown in the Exploded View. 3. Reassemble all the parts, except for the spring. 4. Compress the damper assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not, the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced. 5. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, or binding during these tests. Reassembly Page 7497 Power Door Lock Actuator: Diagrams 36. Door Lock Actuator, Driver's 37. Door Lock Actuator, Front Passenger's Page 3531 Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Solenoid Valve Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve connectors. 7. Remove the bolts, and hold the shift solenoid valve body, then remove them. Do not hold the connector to remove. Page 7503 4. Reconnect all connections to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Disconnect the J, M, and P connectors, and make these input tests at the connectors. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box assembly. Page 577 Combination Switch: Testing and Inspection Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the 16P connector (A) from the combination light switch (B). A 4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the combination light switch. 5. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. - If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 294 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Door, Roof And Seat Page 3005 50. IAT Sensor Locations 67. Behind Glove Box Page 5303 67. Behind Glove Box Diagnostic Aids Fuse: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 1426 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 7164 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Page 2046 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 5593 between the adjusting bolt diameter and the pinch bolt hole diameter allows a small range of adjustment. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Loosen the flange nuts (A) and bolts, and adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt free play. Tighten the flange nuts to the specified torque. NOTE: The camber angle can be adjusted up to ±15' (center of tolerance) by replacing one damper pinch bolt with the adjusting bolt. The camber angle can be adjusted up to ±30' by replacing both damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts. 3. Reinstall the front wheels, lower the front of the vehicle to the ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension. 4. Measure the camber angle. - If the measurement is within specification, measure the toe-in. - If the measurement is not within specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Front Toe Inspection/Adjustment Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Center the steering wheel spokes. 2. Check the toe with the wheels pointed straight ahead. Front toe-in: 0 ± 3 mm (0 ± 0.11 inch) If no adjustment is required, remove the alignment equipment. - If adjustment is required, go to step 3. 3. Loosen the tie-rod locknuts (A) while holding the tie-rod end (B). 4. Turn the tie-rod arm (c) until the front toe is within specifications. 5. After adjusting, tighten the locknut while holding the tie-rod arm. Make sure the toe setting does not change. Rear Toe Inspection/Adjustment Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. 1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Check the toe. Rear toe-in: 2 [+2/-1] mm (0.08 [+0.08/-0.04 inch]) If no adjustment is required, remove the alignment equipment. Page 2262 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Service and Repair Front Door Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Front Door Weatherstrip Replacement NOTE: - Take care not to scratch the door. - Use a clip remover to remove the clips. 1. At the A-pillar, remove the door checker mounting bolt (A). 2. Detach the clips (B, C), then remove the door weatherstrip (D). 3. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Replace any damaged clips. - Push the clips into place securely. - Make sure the weatherstrip is installed in the holder (E) securely. - Apply liquid thread lock to the door checker mounting bolt before installation. - Check for water leaks. - Test-drive and check for wind noise. Service and Repair Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Service and Repair Transmission End Crankshaft Seal Installation - In Car Special Tools Required Driver 07749-0010000 - Oil seal driver attachment 96 07AZD-PNAA100 1. Dry the crankshaft oil seal housing. 2. Use the special tools to drive a new oil seal squarely into the block to the specified installed height. 3. Measure the distance between the cylinder block (A) and oil seal (B). Oil Seal Installed Height: 0.2 - 1.2 mm (0.001 - 0.047 inch) Page 7749 Power Door Lock Switch: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Switch Test Door Lock Switch Test 1. Remove the door panel. 2. Remove the two mounting screws and the door lock switch. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock switch is in the LOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock switch is in the neutral or UNLOCKED position. 4. Check for continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals: - There should be continuity when the door lock switch is in the UNLOCKED position. - There should be no continuity when the door lock switch is in the neutral or LOCKED position. 5. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the door lock switch. Page 2959 3. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) pulse plate B. 4. Install the CMP pulse plate B in the reverse order of removal. Page 6318 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 4505 Lightly push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. Do not open or close the doors until the adhesive is dry. 23. Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the windshield, wipe with a soft shop towel dampened with alcohol. 24. Let the adhesive dry for at least 1 hour, then spray water over the windshield and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal with sealant: Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly. - Keep the windshield dry for the first hour after installation. 25. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. - Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads). Page 2504 Knock Sensor: Service and Repair Knock Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the knock sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the knock sensor (B). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 6799 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Locations 5. Front Of Eng. Comp. (EX; Can.: DX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 8578 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 1574 7. Replace the VTC oil control solenoid valve O-ring (A). 8. Coat the new O-ring with engine oil, then install it. 9. Clean and dry the mating surface of the valve. 10. Install the valve. NOTE: Do not install the valve while wearing cloth fiberous gloves. Be careful not to contaminate the cylinder head opening. Page 2371 Electric Load Sensor: Description and Operation Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Since the early ’90s, Honda vehicles have come with an electrical load detector (ELD) unit in the under-hood fuse/relay box. This unit allows the ECM/PCM to regulate the alternator (switch it between high output and low output) to provide the best combination of fuel economy and electrical system operation. The ELD sends a signal to the ECM/PCM that is proportional to the electrical demand. The ECM/PCM switches the alternator between high output and low output depending on several factors, which include electrical demand, battery charge level, and the driving cycle. When the alternator is in low output, the engine load is reduced and fuel economy improves. Page 4424 13. Remove the solenoid cover, and make sure the solenoid plunger groove is installed in the fork on the lever. ^ If needed, correct the position of the solenoid plunger, then go to step 14. ^ If the solenoid plunger is correctly installed, there is an electrical problem with the key interlock system; refer to the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate service manual for troubleshooting information. Once the key interlock is working normally, go to step 14. 14. Install the solenoid cover. 15. Reinstall the steering column covers. 16. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. Disclaimer Page 8390 Dome Lamp: Connector Views 59. Rear Ceiling Light Diode 89. Ceiling Light, Front 90. Ceiling Light, Rear Page 6305 Page 1159 5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct. 6. Tighten the locknut, and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. 7. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 8. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 9. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 10. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder. 11. Rotate the crankshaft 180° clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). 12. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No.2 cylinder. 13. Install the cylinder head cover. Page 3109 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 8581 73. Spotlights (EX) Page 3431 Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B CMP sensor B detects the position of the No.1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder. Page 677 9. Knock Sensor Page 1509 10. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm (A) to support it. NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage any suspension components. 11. Remove the flange bolt, and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle. 12. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A) and adjusting cam (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), adjusting cam, and adjusting bolt. Discard the self-locking nut. 13. Remove the flange bolt (D). 14. Remove the knuckle (A) while pushing in the driveshaft and holding the driveshaft outboard joint (B) (4WD only). 15. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - First install all the suspension components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then place a floor jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening the bolts and nuts to the specified torque values. - Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and adjusting cam with the marked positions when tightening. - Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly. - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Before installing the brake disc/drum, clean the mating surfaces of the rear hub and the inside of the brake disc/drum. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc/drum and the inside of the wheel. - Check the rear wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 3708 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 546 8. Remove the locknut (A) and the fuel pump sending assembly. 9. Remove the fuel filter (B), the fuel gauge sending unit (C), the case (D), the wire harness (E), and the fuel pressure regulator (F). 10. When connecting the fuel pump assembly, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (H). 11. Check these items before installing the fuel tank unit. - When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (I) are firmly locked into place. - When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively. 12. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (J) and new O-rings (K). When installing the fuel tank unit, align the marks (L) on the unit (M) and the fuel tank (N). Page 5687 11. Install the body stiffener (A). 12. Loosely connect the 14 mm flare nut (A) to the valve body unit, and install the feed line (B) on the P/S line mounting bracket (C). Connect the power steering pressure switch connector (D). 13. Connect the return hose (A) to the return line joint (B) securely. Install the return hose clamp (C) on the steering gearbox. 14. Install the return hose on the hose holders (D) securely. Page 7559 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision Power Window Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision 10-011 March 5, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks BACKGROUND The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not currently covered in the service manuals. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2003-10 Accord - ALL 2006-10 Civic - ALL 2007-10 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2007-10 CR-V - ALL 2003-10 Element - ALL 2009-10 Fit - ALL 2010 Insight - ALL 2005-10 Odyssey - ALL 2009-10 Pilot - ALL 2006-10 Ridgeline - ALL SYMPTOM 1 When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then reverses on its own. PROBABLE CAUSE The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty. NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to Symptom 2. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example, if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch. 3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door. NOTE: Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row. These steps clear the control unit's memory. 4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Page 800 Impact Sensor: Diagrams 51. Impact Sensor, Left Front 52. Impact Sensor, Right Front 65. Side Impact Sensor, Driver's (EX: Side Airbag) Page 8404 Door Switch: Testing and Inspection Rear Door Switch Test 1. Remove the rear door panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the rear door upper and rear door lower switch. 3. Check for continuity between the 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the rear door open. - There should be no continuity with the rear door closed. 4. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the faulty switch. Page 7565 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 5290 5. Pull out the grommet and disconnect the connectors. Remove the rear door subharness. NOTE: The replacement harness does not have these connectors. 6. Remove the old harness from the door, noting all of the clip locations. 7. Install the new rear door harness, and make sure all of the connectors are securely connected. Also make sure all of the harness grommets and mounting clips are securely attached. 8. Reinstall all removed parts. 9. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure that the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. Disclaimer Page 5095 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Page 6924 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Specifications Fuel Pressure: Specifications Fuel Pressure ............................................................................................................................................... 330 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 - 55 psi) Page 7777 Page 7834 19. Using your thumb and forefinger to hold the tumblers, remove the key from the inner cylinder, being careful not to drop any tumblers and springs. 20. *Using the key code from the iN that you have written down at step 2, build a new inner cylinder with new springs, new cylinder, and tumblers from the door lock cylinder kit. Make sure you put the appropriate numbered tumbler in the proper inner cylinder cavity. Apply a thin layer of Permalube to each tumbler to help lubricate and retain it.* NOTE: ^ There are two types of tumblers. The "SUBLOCK" tumbler goes only in cavity A." The "DISC" tumbler goes in cavities "B" through "J." ^ Cavity "E" is empty on all cylinders. Page 3412 8. Set the cable on the bracket (A). Adjust the adjusting nut (B) so that its free play is 0 mm. 9. Position the adjusting nut on the other side of the bracket (A), then tighten the locknut (C). 10. With the cable properly adjusted, check the throttle valve to be sure it opens fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. Also check the throttle valve to be sure it returns to the idle position whenever you release the accelerator pedal. Description and Operation Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor The BARO sensor is inside the ECM/PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge. Page 1653 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Service and Repair VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is stuck or clogged, replace it, then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. 6. Connect the battery negative terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1 Clearance (A) should be at least 2.3 mm (1/16 in.) If the valve does not open, replace it; then go to step?. Page 8646 141. Low Beam Cut And DRL Relays (Canada) Page 5117 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Service and Repair Accessory Power Sockets Test/Replacement Front: 1. Carefully pry the accessory power socket and housing (A) out from the dashboard. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the socket. 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No.1 and No.2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G 502). - an open in the wire. - blown No.18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Rear: Component Locations Wheel Speed Sensor: Component Locations 120. Right Side of Engine Compartment 123. Left Side of Engine Compartment Page 8601 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 8523 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 4939 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Locations 24. Left Side of Engine Locations Key Reminder Switch: Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index 36. In Steering Column Cover Page 6551 Alarm Module: Diagrams 161. Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver 195. Security Control Unit (Honda Accessory) Page 6935 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 2782 21. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminal E31 to body ground with a jumper wire. 22. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Is the MIL on? YES - Go to step 23. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E31) and the gauge assembly. 23. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 24. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 25. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and read the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS communicate with the ECM/PCM? YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Go to "DLC Circuit Troubleshooting". 26. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 27. Inspect the No.20 IG (50A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Check for open in the wire between the No, 20 IG (50A) fuse and the ignition switch. If the wire is OK, go to step 28. NO - Repair short in the wire between No.20 IG (50 A) fuse and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Also replace the No.20 IG (50A) fuse. 28. Inspect the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 35. NO - Go to step 29. 29. Remove the blown No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse from the under-food fuse/relay box. 30. Remove the glove box, and remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (A). Page 7305 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 6656 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle Idle Speed: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 1589 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Service and Repair VTEC Solenoid Valve Removal/Installation VTEC Solenoid Valve Removal/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve connector (A) and the VTEC oil pressure switch connector (B). 2. Remove the bolts (C). 3. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve (D). 4. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new solenoid valve filter (E). Page 2530 ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Page 4323 Shift Indicator: Service and Repair A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness Replacement 1. Remove the shift fever assembly. 2. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), and remove the bulb from the socket. 3. Remove the park pin switch (B) and the switch connector (C). 4. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the park pin switch connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 5. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 6. Replace the A/T gear position indicator panel light harness with the new one. 7. Install GRN harness terminals (A) of the park pin switch in the No. 1 and No. 2 cavities. Either park pin switch harness terminal can be installed in No. 1 and No. 2. 8. Install the RED/BLK harness terminals (B) in the No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. Either A/T gear position indicator panel light harness terminal can be installed in No. 3 and No. 4 cavities. 9. Make sure that the all four terminals lock securely, then install the back cover (C) securely in place. 10. Install the park pin switch. Apply non-hardening thread lock sealant to screw threads, and secure the switch with the screw. 11. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light bulb in the socket. 12. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket, and install the connector. 13. Install the shift lever assembly. Page 2127 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 2160 Radiator: Service and Repair Radiator and Fans Replacement 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the bulkhead cover. 3. Disconnect the fan motor connectors (A) and radiator fan switch connector (B), then remove the harness clamps (C) and compressor clutch connector (D). 4. Remove the upper brackets and cushions (A), then remove the bulkhead (B). Locations Oil Pressure Sender: Locations Gauges Component Location Index Page 2015 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 1222 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 5315 Auxiliary Power Outlet: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 8514 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Diagram Information and Instructions License Plate Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 2761 Information Bus: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 50 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 6378 12. On Accords and Pilots, install the new seat-back clips on the seat-back panel. Turn the clips so their retaining tabs are horizontal. 13. On Accords and Pilots, install the seat-back panel. 14. On all models except Accords and Pilots, zip the seat-back cover closed. 15. Initialize the OPDS unit. ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode. Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. Also verify the correct date and time. 6. From the System Selection menu, select SRS. Page 3082 109. VSS (M/T) Page 183 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 6785 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 4361 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 1. 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) 2. 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 6633 6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work repeat steps 2 thru 7. 9. If you have another transmitter to program, repeat steps 2 thru 7. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 98-02 Passport With Factory-Installed Security System 1998-02 Passport with factory-installed security system Programming the Transmitter To program the transmitters, use one of these two procedures: ^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed. ^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters. Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.) 3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. Procedure Two (adds transmitters) 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the Page 1543 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors Page 432 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Diagrams 47. Hatch Latch Switch 74. Tailgate Latch Switch, Left 74. Tailgate Latch Switch, Right Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information Connecting Rod: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information Why Do Connecting Rods Break? Curious why connecting rods break? Afier all, these are heavy-duty parts specifically designed to endure punishing forces and temperatures. Yet, every once in a while they do bend or break and wind up as cool conversation pieces for a coffee table or desk. Connecting rods break only after they've gotten bent. And they won't get bent unless the engine hydro-locks or the rod bearings fail. When troubleshooting a bent or broken connecting rod, here are some things to consider: ^ The number one culprit for connecting rod breakage is hydro-lock. This happens when liquid (water or fuel) entering the combustion chamber exceeds the chamber's volume. Since liquids don't compress, that extra volume in the chamber causes the rod to bend. You won't really notice anything wrong, until that bent rod finally gives out and breaks. This could happen if you're driving through deep, standing water and someone coming the other way splashes water over your hood. On very rare occasions, a bad ECM/PCM or fuel injector can cause too much fuel to enter a cylinder, causing hydro-lock and resulting in a bent rod. Before this happens, though, there are usually some kind of drive ability problems that crop up and remain afier the engine is fixed. A bent rod might not show any symptoms until it actually breaks. But bent rods leave a wider-than-normal carbon witness line in the cylinder because they're shorter. Typically, a healthy engine has a carbon line that's 6 mm deep. An engine that's suffering from bent rods has a second carbon line that's 9 to 12 mm deep. ^ Connecting rod bearings fail for a number of reasons. To properly determine what actually caused a rod bearing to fail, you've got to take apart all rod bearings and main bearings and compare them side by side. If all or most of the bearings and journals show similar damage (scoring, exposed copper, or heat discoloration) the likely cause is oil starvation, poor maintenance, customer abuse, or running the engine with an aftermarket power booster (nitrous oxide setup, supercharger, turbocharger). If only the bearing or journal for the failed rod looks bad but all the other ones look good (no scoring, no exposed copper or heat discoloration) and the crankshaft journals are smooth with no heat discoloration, then that particular bearing/ clearance would be suspect. Page 1593 Compression Check: Testing and Inspection Engine Compression Inspection NOTE: After this inspection, you must select Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reset using the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) otherwise the ECM/PCM continues to stop the fuel injectors. 1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS to the Data Link Connector (DLC). 4. Select PGM-FI, select inspection, then select the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 5. Remove the four ignition coils. 6. Remove the four spark plugs. 7. Attach the compression gauge to the spark plug hole. 8. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression. Compression Pressure: Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi) 9. Measure the compression on the remaining cylinders. Maximum variation: Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi) 10. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the compression. - Damaged or worn valves and seats - Damaged cylinder head gasket - Damaged or worn piston rings - Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore 11. Select the ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF function. 12. Perform the Crankshaft Position (CKP) pattern clear/ CKP pattern learn procedure. 13. Perform the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. Page 4905 118. Brake Pedal Position Switch Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 6455 4. Install the seat belt buckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Apply liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolt before reinstallation. - Make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt buckle. - Assemble the washers on the center anchor bolt as shown. Page 7790 10. Weld the wheelhouse upper member (A). Page 2260 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 8571 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 2045 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 2743 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 375 ^ If the run channel is visibly damaged, replace it, then recheck the window speed. ^ If the run channel looks OK, go to step 3. 3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through its range of travel and check for excessive resistance: ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 4. If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 5. 4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed. ^ If the run channel is not pinched, go to step 5. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. SYMPTOM 3 During operation, the window squeaks, creaks, clunks, or clicks. REQUIRED MATERIALS Shin-Etsu Grease: P/N 08798-9013 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Compare the window's noise level to another like vehicle: ^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal characteristic. ^ If the noise is different from the other vehicle, go to step 2. Page 8561 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 74 Page 8328 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Description and Operation Front Bumper: Description and Operation Door and Bumper Reinforcement Beams Door and bumper reinforcement beams used on Honda vehicle are made from a metal equivalent to high strength steel. If high strength steel is heated, the strength of the steel will be reduced. If high strength steel is damaged, as in a vehicle accident, where the door and bumper reinforcement beams are bent, the beams may crack if an attempt is made to straighten them. For this reason, door and bumper reinforcement beams should NEVER be repaired; they should be replaced if they are damaged. NOTE: If a door beam is damaged, the whole door panel assembly should be replaced. Page 2332 Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagrams 92. CMP Sensor A 93. CMP Sensor B Page 5806 Reassembly NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed. 1. Install the upper spring mounting cushion (A) on the upper spring seat (B) by aligning the tab portion (C) on the cushion with the cutout (D) in the seat. 2. Install the damper spring (E) in the groove of the cushion securely. 3. Install the damper mounting bearing and damper mounting base on the upper spring seat. 4. Install the upper spring seat and the spring on a commercially available strut spring compressor (A), and compress the spring lightly. 5. Insert the damper unit (B) up through the compressed spring. 6. Align the bottom of the spring (c) and the stepped part (D) of the lower spring seat. Page 1672 Connecting Rod: Testing and Inspection End Play Inspection Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection 1. Remove the oil pump. 2. Remove the baffle plates. 3. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft. Connecting Rod End Play Standard (New): 0.15 - 0.35 mm (0.006 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit: 0.40 mm (0.016 inch) 4. If the connecting rod end play is out-of-tolerance, install a new connecting rod, and recheck. If it is still out-of-tolerance; replace the crankshaft. 5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit. Crankshaft End Play Standard (New): 0.10 - 0.35 mm (0.004 - 0.014 inch) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 inch) 6. If the end play is out-of-tolerance, replace the thrust washers and recheck, if it is still out-of-tolerance, replace the crankshaft. Page 5064 Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 6519 7. From the Mode menu, select Miscellaneous Test. 8. From the Miscellaneous Test menu, select OPDS Initialization. 9. Follow the remaining screen prompts to complete the OPDS initialization. If the initialization fails repeat the process two more times. If the initialization fails again, check for SRS DTCs, then troubleshoot them using the appropriate service manual. Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode NOTE: Non-Honda seat covers will interfere with the performance of the OPDS and are not recommended. 1. Adjust the front passenger's seat-back to an upright position, then remove anything on or near the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). 4. Keep the ignition switch at LOCK (0), and turn on the HDS. 5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the odometer reading. 6. From the Select Mode screen, select SCS, and follow the screen prompts. Page 8598 Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit. Ground Distribution Schematics Ground Distribution Schematics This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point. Page 3477 Technical Service Bulletin # 01-077 Date: 060419 Ignition/Locks - Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys 01-077 April 19, 2006 Applies To: Models With Sidewinder-Type Keys - All Cutting Sidewinder-Type Keys With the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine (Supersedes 01-077, dated January 12, 2005) Updated information is noted by asterisks. MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, manufactured by Silca and supplied by Kaba Ilco Corporation, is a portable, power-operated tool that cuts sidewinder-type automotive keys exclusively. The machine lets you cut these keys either by copying or by code. The code function is designed and built to meet the Honda code requirements. No other similar machine has this capability. This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides you through the entire key cutting process from setting up the machine to cutting the key blank. TOOL INFORMATION Order through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine: Model No. ILCMATRIXSH Cutter Bit: Model No. ILCF3O Fixed Jaw: Model No. ILCMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Right Side): Model No. ILCRTMTX-H Mobile Jaw (Left Side): Model No. ILCLTMTX-H *Remanufactured Clamp Unit: Model No. ILCMATRIXHCR* PARTS INFORMATION *For some models, there are two choices for sidewinder-type key blanks: ^ T-5 sidewinder key blanks ^ Honda sidewinder key blanks For other models, only Honda sidewinder key blanks can be used. See DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE to determine which key blank you should choose. Ordering T-5 key blanks through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program: T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Master): P/N ILC-35111-T-5H T-5 Programmable Key Blank (Valet): P/N ILC-35112-T-5H Practice Key Blanks (five per pack): ILC-35111DEMO* NOTE: Do not use practice key blanks for replacement purposes. Practice keys do not have an immobilizer chip. Page 4945 ^ Going from front to back, use the middle lock pin to set the first cam to the appropriate key code number in the code book. (The cam is properly set when the number on the cam lines up with the red scribe mark on the clamp unit.) ^ Slide the lock pin through the notch in the cam. (This locks the cam in place.) ^ Keep doing this for each of the remaining cams in the set until all the cams are set and locked, then push the lock pin all the way in. Repeat this process to set and lock the cams for the right cam set. NOTE: Make sure you set the MIS cam in the right cam set for the type of key you are cutting. For a master key, set the cam to M; for a valet key, set it to S. When you are done, push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams in the left cam set. 10. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) 12. Use the clamp carriage lever and the tracer to follow the contours of the cam blades from front to back. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the right edge of the key blank, from head to tip.) Specifications Water Pump: Specifications Water Pump Torque Specifications Page 5436 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: Recalls Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 4635 Page 2148 Locations Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Locations 95. Under Driver's Seat 96. Under Front Passenger's Seat Page 3464 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor A Replacement CMP Sensor A Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor A connector (A). 3. Remove the bolt (B). 4. Remove CMP sensor A (C). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 4267 Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Avoiding Fluid Contamination SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Avoiding Comebacks From A/T Contamination APPLIES TO: All models SERVICE TIP: Installing a reman A/T? Here are some important tips to keep in mind to ensure a first-time fix and to avoid any come-backs: - If the vehicle has an ATF cooler, make sure you clean the cooler with the ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H). See S/B 89-022, ATF Cooler Cleaner, for details. - If the reman A/T kit includes an in-line filter, don't forget to install it. If the vehicle already has an in-line filter from an earlier A/T replacement, then remove the existing filter, and install the new one. - Spray the driveshaft splines with solvent and compressed air before installing them in the reman A/T. If the failed A/T had a speed sensor, make sure it's clean before you install it. Debris from the failed A/T can catch in the driveshaft splines or on the speed sensor and contaminate the reman A/T. - If the reman A/T comes with a heater/cooler, make sure you install the reman A/T with that heater/cooler. Never install the heater/cooler from the failed A/T; you could contaminate the reman A/T. Page 5051 11. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature. 12. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attached to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature. 13. Check with an ohmmeter that no continuity exists between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and armature shaft (C). If continuity exists, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 6131 1. Before adding any leak-detection dye, check to see if there is dye in the system now. ^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has been added to the system. ^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this: - Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap. - Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system. ^ If there is no dye in the system, go to step 2. ^ If there is dye in the system, go to step 5. Do not add more dye. 2. Add the dye. NOTE: Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following: (a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting. (b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule. (c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set. (d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes. (e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and disconnect the NC recovery and charging station. (f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for future use. NOTE: ^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil. ^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before adding any dye. (g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye. * NOTE: Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.* (h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye to enter the system. (i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control valve on the set. (j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage case. * NOTE: Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.* (k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge label. Page 4299 10. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm (A) to support it. NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage any suspension components. 11. Remove the flange bolt, and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle. 12. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A) and adjusting cam (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), adjusting cam, and adjusting bolt. Discard the self-locking nut. 13. Remove the flange bolt (D). 14. Remove the knuckle (A) while pushing in the driveshaft and holding the driveshaft outboard joint (B) (4WD only). 15. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - First install all the suspension components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then place a floor jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening the bolts and nuts to the specified torque values. - Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and adjusting cam with the marked positions when tightening. - Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly. - Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. - Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. - Before installing the brake disc/drum, clean the mating surfaces of the rear hub and the inside of the brake disc/drum. - Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc/drum and the inside of the wheel. - Check the rear wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Page 5899 6. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. Remove the rear axle shaft (C) from vehicles with 4WD. 7. Remove the parking brake shoes. 8. Remove the parking brake cable (A) from the backing plate. NOTE: The parking brake cable must not be bent or distorted. This will lead to stiff operation and premature cable failure. 9. Remove the wheel sensor (A) from the knuckle (if equipped with ABS). Page 3131 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 4466 Page 825 Page 2458 132. Transmission Housing (M/T) Page 4808 3. Attach the driveshaft on the drive motor assembly to the mounting yoke, making sure the center line of the driveshaft is level with the spindle nut on the wheel hub. 4. Set the lower toggle switch on the drive motor assembly to FWD (counterclockwise rotation) or REV (clockwise rotation). Setting Up and Adjusting the Brake Lathe Use Kwik-Way cutting bits, P/N KWY-109109223, and the holding screws that come with them. These bits are stamped KW and are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION). Before you use the brake lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make sure the tips are not worn out. Each bit has three tips. If a tip is worn, rotate the bit, and use a new tip. A worn tip produces a poor finish and may cause chattering. Page 1835 How to Identify Connector Terminals Application and ID Ground To Components Index Page 8533 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 1086 Alignment: Service and Repair Wheel Alignment The suspension can be adjusted for front camber, front toe, and rear toe. However, each of these adjustments are interrelated to each other. For example, when you adjust toe, the camber changes. Therefore, you must adjust the front wheel alignment whenever you adjust camber or toe. Pre-Alignment Checks For proper inspection and adjustment of the wheel alignment, do these checks: 1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Make sure the suspension is not modified. 3. Check the tire size and tire pressure. Tire size: Front/rear: P215/70R16 99S Tire pressure: Front: 220 kPa (2.2 kgf/cm2, 32 psi) Rear: 235 kPa (2.4 kgf/cm2, 34 psi) 4. Check the runout of the wheels and tires. 5. Check the suspension ball joints. (Hold a wheel with your hands, and move it up and down and right and left to check for wobbling). 6. Bounce the vehicle up and down several times to stabilize the suspension. Caster Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacture's instructions. Check the caster angle. Caster angle: 1°50' ± 1° If the measurement is within specifications, measure the camber angle. - If the measurement is not within specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Camber Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Check the camber angle. Camber angle: Front: -0°13' ± 45' Rear: -1°00' ± 45' If the measurement for the front camber is outside the specification, go to front camber adjustment. - If the measurement for the rear camber is outside the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Front Camber Adjustment The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or both of the damper pinch bolts with the smaller diameter adjusting bolt(s). The difference A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information Use Worm-Style Clamps With the ATF Cooler Cleaner The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop. In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some more? Just call G-TFC, Inc. Page 3561 Countershaft Sensor: Service and Repair Countershaft Speed Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the countershaft speed sensor connector. 2. Remove the countershaft speed sensor. 3. Install the new O-ring (A) on the countershaft speed sensor, and install the countershaft speed sensor (B) in the transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, and oil, clean if needed, then connect the connector securely. Page 7977 Odometer - Does It Rack Up Miles When Towed Odometer: All Technical Service Bulletins Odometer - Does It Rack Up Miles When Towed SOURCE: Honda Service News April 2003 TITLE: Does a Towed Vehicle's Odometer Rack Up Miles? APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: If the vehicle has an electronic speedometer (one that isn't cable-driven), the answer is NO. The odometer doesn't rack up mileage as long as the ignition switch is in the LOCK (0) or the ACC (1) position. Page 6481 Impact Sensor: Service Precautions SRS Unit, Front Impact Sensors, and Side Impact Sensors - Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side impact sensors whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. - During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury. - After a collision in which any airbags or seat belt tensioners were deployed, replace the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and other deployed components. After a collision in which a side airbag was deployed, replace the side impact sensor on the deployed side and the SRS unit. After a collision in which the airbags or the side airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and the side impact sensors. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors. - Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side impact sensors. - Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors from the SRS unit. - Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors are installed securely, with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft) - Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors, and keep them away from dust. - Store the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors in a cool (less than 104 °F / 40 °C) and dry (less than 80 % relative humidity, no moisture) area. Page 4725 4. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B) on the pedal arm). Then, turn the switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.4 to 3.0 mm (0.016 - 0.118 inch) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released. 5. Check the brake pedal free play. Pedal Free Play 1. With the engine off, inspect the play (A) on the pedal pad (B) by pushing the pedal by hand. Free Play: 1 - 5 mm (1/16 - 3/16 inch) 2. If the pedal free play is out of specification, adjust the brake pedal position switch (C). If the pedal free play is insufficient, it may result in brake drag. Page 8540 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 8565 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 1813 7. Install the cam chain guide B. 8. Remove the pin from the auto-tensioner. 9. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is damaged, replace the chain case oil seal. 10. Remove old liquid gasket from the chain case mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes. 11. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 12. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, evenly to the cylinder block mating surface of the chain case and to the inner threads of the holes. 13. Apply liquid gasket to the cylinder block upper surface contact areas (A) on the chain case. Locations 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Page 2644 Electric Load Sensor: Description and Operation Electrical Load Detector (ELD) Since the early ’90s, Honda vehicles have come with an electrical load detector (ELD) unit in the under-hood fuse/relay box. This unit allows the ECM/PCM to regulate the alternator (switch it between high output and low output) to provide the best combination of fuel economy and electrical system operation. The ELD sends a signal to the ECM/PCM that is proportional to the electrical demand. The ECM/PCM switches the alternator between high output and low output depending on several factors, which include electrical demand, battery charge level, and the driving cycle. When the alternator is in low output, the engine load is reduced and fuel economy improves. Page 584 Door Switch: Connector Locations 86. Left Rear Door 87. Left Rear Door Page 6524 SRS Component Location Index Page 1634 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 6390 PARTS INFORMATION TOOL INFORMATION Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 2226 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 5754 ^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. ^ Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. 18. Test-drive the vehicle over bumps to make sure the noise is gone. Disclaimer Page 4442 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 5172 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 6248 160. Right Side Of Floor (Left Sim.) (EX: Side Airbag) Page 1258 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 6364 6. Connect the SCS service connector (A) to the yellow MES 2P connector (B). Do not use a jumper wire. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. The SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and goes off. Remove the SCS service connector from the MES 2P connector within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator went off. 9. The SRS indicator comes on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES 2P connector within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on. 10. The SRS indicator goes off. Remove the SCS service connector from the MES 2P connector within 4 seconds. 11. Watch the SRS indicator. - If the indicator blinks two times and then stays on, the OPDS is initialized, but the DTCs need to be erased. Go to step 12, then erase the DTCs. - If the indicator blinks two times and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Go to step 12. - If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS is not initialized. Read the DTC. If DTC 15-1 is indicated, repeat the initialization procedure. If another DTC is indicated, go to the appropriate code in the DTC Troubleshooting. If the OPDS system fails to initialize after several attempts, replace the OPDS sensor/seat back and retry. If the OPDS system continues to fail to initialize, replace the OPDS unit. 12. Turn the ignition switch off, and disconnect the HDS Page 8064 39. Door Lower Switch, Right Rear 40. Door Upper Switch, Left Rear 41. Door Upper Switch, Right Rear Diagnostic Aids Control Assembly: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 2924 and the bracket. 6. Remove the nuts (C), then remove the ECM/PCM (D). Page 3578 8. Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the tab (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift cable bracket (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F) and damper (G). 9. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts. 10. Remove the shift lever mounting bolt (A), and remove the shift cable bracket (B). A/F Sensor Replacement Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair A/F Sensor Replacement A/F Sensor Replacement Special Tools Required O2 sensor wrench, Snap-on YA8875, SP Tools 93750, or equivalent, commercially available 1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A), then remove the A/F sensor (B). 2. Install the A/F sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 5507 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4221 ^ If the noise is still present, look for other causes. 7. Test-drive the vehicle to check for proper clutch operation. Disclaimer Page 5695 18. Remove and discard the stop ring (A) on the cylinder by expanding it with snap ring pliers. Remove and discard the lock screw (B). 19. Set the cylinder housing (A) in a press so the cylinder side points downward, then press the cylinder end seal (B) and steering rack (C) out of the cylinder. Hold the rack to keep it from falling when pressed clear. 20. Remove the cylinder end seal from the steering rack. 21. Insert the special tools into the cylinder. Make sure the attachment (A) of the special tools is securely positioned on the bushing edges (B). 22. Place the cylinder in a press, then remove the cylinder end seal (c), backup ring (D), and bushing from the cylinder by pressing on the special tool end. Note the items when pressing the cylinder end seal: ^ Keep tool straight to avoid damaging the cylinder wall. Check the tool angle, and correct it if necessary, when removing the cylinder end seal. ^ Use a press to remove the cylinder end seal. Do not try to remove the seal by striking the tool; striking the tool would break the cylinder end seal, and the seal would remain in the cylinder. Page 4461 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Page 4923 Wheel Speed Sensor: Testing and Inspection Inspection 1. Remove the appropriate front driveshaft or rear driveshaft. 2. Check the magnetic encoder after cleaning the encoder. If necessary, replace the front wheel bearing or rear wheel bearing. 3. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor and the magnetic encoder all the way around while rotating the encoder. Standard: Front/Rear: 0.5 - 1.5 mm (0.02 - 0.06 inch) NOTE: ^ Install the wheel bearing with the magnetic encoder (brown color) toward the inside of the knuckle. ^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, or other foreign material from the encoder surface. ^ Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. ^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing. Page 4448 Page 2830 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 8526 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Interior - Seat Belts Slow to Retract Seat Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Seat Belts Slow to Retract 03-062 September 16, 2003 Applies To: ALL Seat Belt Slow to Retract (Replaces 91-030, dated January 22, 1996) SYMPTOM The seat belt will not retract all the way, or retracts slowly. PROBABLE CAUSE Dirt on the seat belt webbing and guide. CORRECTIVE ACTION Clean the seat belts and guides with a mild soap and water solution, or isopropyl alcohol. This applies only to three-point active and passive seat belt systems, not to motorized systems. REQUIRED MATERIALS Required only for three-point passive seat belts. Teflon Tape (ten pieces per package): P/N 81496-SH3-505, H/C 4008041 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION This repair is covered by the Lifetime Seat Belt Limited Warranty. Failed Part: P/N 818AD-SM1-A05ZB H/C 3478047 Defect Code: L11 Contention Code: B99 Skill Level: Repair Technician REPAIR PROCEDURE Three-Point Active Seat Belts 1. Use either isopropyl alcohol, or prepare a solution of 5 ounces of mild dishwashing liquid in a gallon of warm water. NOTICE Do not use strong cleaning solutions, upholstery cleaners or commercial automotive interior cleaners. They can affect the durability of the webbing. Page 6154 Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 7900 2. Inspect the run channel for damage. ^ If it is damaged, replace it, then recheck the noise level. ^ If the run channel is not damaged, go to step 3. 3. Remove the door panel. 4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for excessive resistance. ^ If the resistance is excessive, go to step 5. ^ If the resistance is not excessive, go to step 6. 5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run channel within the door. ^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required. ^ If the window noise symptoms are still present, go to step 6. 6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just below the door skin; this is a common area for the run channel to be pinched. ^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it and adjust as needed. Page 4736 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 6484 Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Side Impact Sensor Side Impact Sensor Replacement NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure in the Body section before doing repairs or service. Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the seat assembly. 4. Remove the door sill trim. 5. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor. 6. Remove the Torx bolt (A) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the side impact sensor (B). Installation 1. Install the new side impact sensor with the Torx bolt (A), then connect the floor wire harness 2P connector (B) to the side impact sensor. 2. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 3. After installing the side impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. 4. Install all removed parts. Glass Bracket Receiver Replacement Sunroof / Moonroof Handle Assembly: Service and Repair Glass Bracket Receiver Replacement Glass Bracket Receiver Replacement 1. Remove the frame. 2. Remove the deflector. 3. Remove the screws (A, B), then remove the upper receiver (C). 4. Remove the lower receiver (A) from the frame. 5. Install the receivers in the reverse order of removal, and apply multipurpose grease to the upper receiver surface (A) and lower receiver surface (B) as indicated by the arrows. Page 5986 Compressor Clutch: Testing and Inspection Compressor Clutch Circuit Compressor Clutch Circuit Troubleshooting NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if the fans are also inoperative. Refer to the symptom troubleshooting index. See: Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures 1. Check the No.1 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck. 2. Check the engine coolant temperature, throttle position, and idle speed (use the Honda PGM Tester or HDS PGM-FI data list if possible). Is the coolant temperature, throttle position, or idle speed out of normal range? YES - Troubleshoot and repair the cause of the high engine coolant temperature, low idle, or excessively high throttle position. NO - Go to step 3. 3. Remove the compressor clutch relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Replace the compressor clutch relay. 4. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the compressor clutch relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. 5. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the compressor clutch relay 4P socket with a jumper wire. Does the compressor clutch click ? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 14. Page 4517 Page 770 91. CKP Sensor Page 8018 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Component Locations Power Windows Component Location Index Page 218 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 8116 9. Install a 2 Ohms resistor between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). 10. Check that the needle of the fuel gauge indicates "F". - If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F", replace the gauge. - If the pointer points to "F", the fuel gauge is OK; is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit: Go to step 12. NOTE: The needle of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is OFF, regardless of the fuel level. 11. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank. 12. Measure the resistance between the No.1 and No.2 terminals of the fuel gauge sending unit with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the shown readings, replace the sending unit. NOTE: Remove the No.9 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge to indicate the correct fuel level. Page 2431 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Testing and Inspection PSP Switch Signal Circuit Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP SWITCH the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it indicate OFF? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 12. 4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - The PSP switch signal circuit is OK. NO - Go to step 6. 6. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 7. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. Does it change to ON? YES - Replace the PSP switch. NO - Go to step 8. 8. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 9. Jump the SCS line with the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS. 10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). 11. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM (E16) and the PSP switch. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM. 12. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 13. Disconnect the PSP switch 2Pconnector. Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot Band/Installation Constant Velocity Joint Boot: Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Revised CV Joint Boot Band/Installation 98-018 July 22, 2003 Applies To: ALL Models Driveshaft Boot Band Tool (Supersedes 98-018, Boot Band Tool, dated April 14, 1998) Updated information is shown by asterisks. The replacement boot bands for the driveshaft CV joint boots have changed. The replacement bands are a double loop type that require a special tool for proper installation. * TOOL INFORMATION Boot Band Tool: T/N KD-3191 This tool is already at your dealership. To order additional tools, call the Honda Tool and Equipment Program at 1-888-424-6857. Phone lines are open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. CT.* REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the old boot band(s). Take care not to damage the boot. 2. Remove and inspect the boot. Replace the boot if it is worn or damaged. 3. Install the boot, and fill it with the specified amount and type of grease. Refer to section 16 of the appropriate service manual for the grease amount and type. 4. Adjust the driveshaft to the proper length. Refer to section 16 of the appropriate service manual. 5. Install the replacement boot band onto the large end of the boot with the end of the band facing toward the front of the vehicle. 6. Take up the slack in the boot band by hand, and hold the boot band in place. Page 7476 1991-93 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry or dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter The transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code number. The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car. Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and glove compartment lock. To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery is not replaceable. 91-93 Accord 5-Door LX 1991-93 Accord 5-door LX with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter This transmitter is not programmable. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address: Kenwood Service Corp. P.O. Box 22745 Long Beach, CA 90501-5745 Page 4022 Transmission Speed Sensor: Diagrams 94. Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) 102. Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor (A/T) Locations Page 3355 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 4838 Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Testing and Inspection Test Check for continuity between the terminals (A) with the float in the down position and the up position. ^ Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be continuity. ^ Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to MAX (upper) level (B). With the float up, there should be no continuity. Page 6807 217. Trailer Connector (Honda Accessory) Page 2719 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair FTP Sensor Replacement 1. Remove the EVAP canister. 2. Remove the FTP sensor (A). 3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (B). Page 4814 Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection Rear Disc Brake Rotor Rear Brake Disc Inspection Runout 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the rear wheels. 2. Remove the brake pads. 3. Inspect the brake disc surface for damage and cracks. Clean the disc thoroughly and remove all rust. 4. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque to hold the brake disc securely against the hub. 5. Set up the dial gauge against the brake disc as shown, and measure the runout at 10 mm (0.4 inch) from the outer edge of the disc. Brake Disc Runout: Service Limit: 0.10 mm (0.004 inch) 6. If the brake disc is beyond the service limit, refinish the disc. Max. Refinishing Limit: 7.5 mm (0.30 inch) NOTE: ^ If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for refinishing, replace it. A new disc should be refinished if its runout is greater than 0.10 mm (0.004 inch). Thickness and parallelism 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Remove the rear wheels. 2. Remove the brake pads. 3. Using a micrometer, measure disc thickness at eight points, approximately 45° apart and 10 mm (0.4 inch) in from the outer edge of the disc. Brake Disc Thickness: Standard: 8.9 - 9.1 mm (0.350 - 0.358 inch) Max. Refinishing Limit: 7.5 mm (0.30 inch) Brake Disc Parallelism: 0.015 mm (0.0006 inch) max. NOTE: This is the maximum allowable difference between the thickness measurements. 4. If the smallest measurement is less than the max. Refinishing limit, replace the brake disc. 5. If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for parallelism, refinish the disc with an on-car brake lathe. Page 5088 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Locations Ignition System Component Location Index Page 4418 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Locations SRS Component Location Index Page 5029 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 4051 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you'll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: ^ Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. ^ Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it's removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you'll need to install the new spring the same way. Diagrams 49. High Mount Brake Light Page 5355 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 1917 ^ Click on DTCs/Freeze Data. ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. Page 6825 Trailer Lamps: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 2650 DTC P0158 thru P0400 Page 6979 7. Pull the latch (A) out until you can disconnect the inner handle rod (B), then disconnect the rod. 8. Remove the latch from the hole in the door. Take care not to bend the rods. 9. Pull the lock rod protector (A) upward, then remove the protector from the latch (B). 10. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the actuator connectors are plugged in properly, and each rod is connected securely. - Make sure the door locks and opens properly. - When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter. Page 5180 134. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) 135. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Page 1621 Circuit Schematics Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom. Shared Circuits Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK. Connectors VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Testing and Inspection VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal/Test/Installation 1. Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve connector (A). 2. Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C). 3. Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve for sticking or clogging. If the valve is sticking or is clogged replaced it; then go to step 7. 4. Check the clearance between the port (advance side) and the valve. Make sure the valve (A) closes fully. 5. Connect the battery positive terminal to VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2. Page 7467 Page 5614 3. Remove the snap ring (A) and the splash guard (B) from the knuckle (C). 4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a press. 5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (c), a steel plate (D), the special tool, and a press. NOTE: (with ABS): ^ Install the wheel bearing with the magnetic encoder (E) (brown color) toward the inside of the knuckle. ^ Remove any oil, grease, dust metal debris, or other foreign material from the encoder surface. ^ Keep magnetic tools away from the encoder surface. ^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing. Page 2762 Information Bus: Description and Operation Multiplex Control System How the Circuit Works The conventional portion of the electrical system carries DC power through separate wires to each component. The multiplex portion of the system, however, sends digital signals between control units through shared wires to reduce the number and weight of wire harnesses. The signals from each switch are converted to digital signals within the receiving multiplex control unit. The digital signals are sent from the multiplex control unit to other control units as serial data over dedicated communication lines. When the appropriate control unit receives the digital signal, it converts it back to a switch signal and operates the related components. The multiplex control system schematic shows it's power, grounds, and communication lines. The ignition key light and front ceiling light are also shown because they are used to blink DTCs in the system's self-diagnosis function. The rest of the multiplex control system wiring is shown in the following circuit schematics: - Seat Belt Reminder - Lights-on Reminder - Key-in Reminder - Entry Light Control System - Dash and Console Lights (brightness control) - Power Door Locks - Wiper/Washers - Interlock System - HVAC - Gauges and Indicators - Ceiling Lights - Fans - A/T Controls - Headlight - Map/Spotlight - Charging System - Horn - SRS Page 5479 Relay Box: Connector Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 5499 Relay Box: Diagrams 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 8616 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 5989 Compressor Clutch: Service and Repair Compressor Clutch Overhaul Special Tools Required A/C clutch holder, Robinair 10204, Kent-Moore J37872, or Honda Tool and Equipment KMT-J33939, commercially available 1. Remove the center bolt (A) while holding the armature plate with a commercially available A/C clutch holder (B). 2. Remove the pressure plate (A) and shim(s) (B), taking care not to lose the shim(s). If the clutch needs adjustment, increase or decrease the number and thickness of shims as necessary, then reinstall the armature plate, and recheck its clearance. NOTE: The shims are available in three thicknesses: 0.1 mm, 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm. 3. If you are replacing the field coil, remove the snap ring (A) with snap ring pliers, then remove the rotor pulley (B). Be careful not to damage the rotor pulley and compressor. Page 3425 Ignition Timing: Testing and Inspection Ignition Timing Inspection 1. Connect the Honda PGM Tester or the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC), and check for DTC's. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair the cause before inspecting the ignition timing. 2. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 3. Check the idle speed. 4. Follow the tester's prompts to get the tester in the "SCS" mode (see the operator's manual). 5. Free the service loop from the wire harness, then connect the timing light to the service loop. 6. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under no load condition: headlights, blower fan, rear window defogger, and air conditioner are not operating. 7. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, update the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the system work properly, and the ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM. 8. Disconnect the Honda PGM Tester or the HDS and the timing light. 9. Secure the service loop to the wire harness with wire ties. Page 6914 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Page 7304 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 1757 Oil Pressure Sender: Service and Repair Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch. 2. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch. Page 2855 Power Steering Pressure Switch: Description and Operation Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch The PSP switch signals the ECM/PCM when the power steering load is high. Page 2916 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) Page 7668 ^ Refer to page 23-24 of the service manual, or ^ Refer to service bulletin 02-052 Initializing the OPDS Unit. 13. With side airbags: Enter the radio anti-theft code, then enter the customer's presets. Set the clock. 14. With side airbags: Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's window power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. ^ Keep the engine running. 15. With side airbags: Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Let the engine warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes. Disclaimer Page 6081 Disclaimer Page 4481 CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the windshield and, if needed, remove the high spots on the windshield flange (see VEHICLES AFFECTED). PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 831120 Flat Rate Time: 1.7 hours Failed Part: P/N 04731-SCV-A00 H/C 7310774 Defect Code: 5EM00 Symptom Code: Q2500 Template ID: 06-084A Skill Level: Repair Technician DIAGNOSIS The only diagnosis is to ensure that the windshield crack(s) were not the obvious result of a large object (such as a rock or a baseball) hitting the glass. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the windshield: ^ Refer to pages 20-37 and 20-38 of the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, steps 1 thru 9, or ^ Online, enter keyword WINDSHIELD, select Windshield Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 9. 2. Check to see if the VIN is within the range listed under VEHICLES AFFECTED. ^ If the VIN is within the listed range, go to step 3. ^ If the VIN is not within the listed range, go to step 5. Page 2660 DTC P2240 thru U0073 Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Keyless Entry Transmitter: Customer Interest Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Page 3211 Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve: Service and Repair PCV Valve Replacement 1. Disconnect the PCV hose. 2. Remove the PCV valve (A). 3. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new washer (B). Page 418 74. Driver's Door Page 6523 Torque and Sequence Pressure Plate: Specifications Torque and Sequence Torque the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the bolts in several steps to prevent warping the diaphragm spring. PRESSURE PLATE MOUNTING BOLT TORQUE 25 Nm (2.6 kgf-cm, 19 ft. lbs.) Page 7457 Programming the Transmitter 1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat. 2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a square, yellow button; this is the programming button. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals. 5. Release the programming button. 6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the system exits the programming mode. 7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK" button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.) 8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK. 9. Test all the transmitters. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each transmitter uses one battery. Page 6142 Refrigerant Oil: Service and Repair A/C Refrigerant Oil Replacement Recommended PAG oil: DENSO ND-OIL 8: - P/N 38897-PR7-A01AH: 120 ml (4 fl.oz) - P/N 38899-PR7-A01: 40 ml (1 1/3 fl.oz) Page 8471 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 1626 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 7679 7. Apply the 10 x 30 mm wool felt strips around both ends of the seat frame rod (where the upper seat-back cover springs connect). 8. With side airbags: Make sure the black upper hook for the side airbag cover routes below the zig-zag spring. If it is above the spring, disassemble the airbag cover hooks, and reconnect the hooks with the black hook routing below the zig-zag spring. 9. Reinstall the seat-back cover. To prevent wrinkles, make sure you stretch the material evenly over the foam before securing the inside springs, hooks, and clips. 10. Reinstall the armrest (if applicable). If the vehicle does not have side airbags, you're finished. If the vehicle is equipped with side airbags, go to step 11. 11. With side airbags: Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 12. With side airbags: If you repaired the front passenger's seat, initialize the occupant position detection system (OPDS) unit: Page 4509 13. Attach the molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the edge of the windshield (C): - Be sure the alignment mark (D) of the molding lines up with the alignment mark (E) of the windshield. - Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. 14. Attach the molding upper seal (A) to the inside surface of the molding (B), and attach the non-woven fabric (C) as shown: - Be sure the molding upper seal and non-woven fabric line up with the alignment dots (D). - Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. 15 Install the clips to the body. Page 2032 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 6466 122. Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner, Front Passenger's Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect Technical Service Bulletin # 10-059 Date: 101001 Recall - Ignition/Shift Interlock Defect 10-059 October 1, 2010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Safety Recall: Accord, Civic, and Element Ignition Switch Key Interlock BACKGROUND Under certain conditions, the interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform. The interlock ensures the transmission is in Park before the ignition key can be removed. Interlock failure may allow the ignition key to be removed when the shift lever is not in Park. If the driver fails to engage the parking brake, the vehicle could roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this recall. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. Diagnostic Aids Fuel Gauge: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 3486 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 7570 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Locations Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 1380 Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box (Part 1) Page 7782 Splash Guard: Service and Repair Fuel Pipe Protector Replacement Fuel Pipe Protector Replacement 1. Remove the clips, then remove the fuel pipe protector (A). Take care not to scratch the body. 2. Install the protector in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips into place securely. Page 4489 3. Inspect the mounting flange for any high spots, especially at the base of the A-pillar where the dashboard attaches. NOTE: You may need to remove some of the adhesive to inspect the area. ^ If you find any high spots, go to step 4. ^ If you don't find any high spots, go to step 5. 4. Using a hammer, carefully flatten the high spots so they are even with the rest of the area. If needed, apply touch-up paint to the flattened areas. NOTICE To prevent damage to the A-pillar and the surrounding area, do not use too much force with the hammer. 5. Install the new windshield: ^ Refer to pages 20-38 thru 20-42 of the service manual, steps 10 thru 25, or ^ Online, enter keyword WINDSHIELD, select Windshield Replacement from the list, and do steps 10 thru 25. Disclaimer Testing and Inspection Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection VTEC Rocker Arms Test Special Tools Required Air Pressure regulator 07AAJ-PNAA100 - VTEC air adapter 07ZAJ-PNM100 - VTEC air stopper 07ZAJ-PNAA200 - Air joint adapter 07ZAJ-PNAA300 1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn OFF the ignition switch. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC). 4. Verify that the intake primary rocker arm (A) moves independently of the intake secondary rocker arm (B). - If the intake primary rocker arm does not move, remove the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly and check that the pistons in the secondary and primary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and test. - If the intake primary rocker arm moves freely, go to step 5. 5. Repeat step 4 on the remaining intake primary rocker arms with each piston at TDC. When all the primary rocker arms pass the test, go to step 6. 6. Inspect the valve clearance. 7. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4 kgf/cm2, 57 psi). 8. Remove the sealing bolt (A) from the relief hole, and install the VTEC air stopper (B). 9. Remove the No. 2 and No. 3 camshaft holder bolts, and install the VTEC air adapters (C) finger-tight. 10. Connect the air joint adapter (D) and air pressure regulator (E). 11. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure. Specified air pressure: 290 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2, 42 psi) NOTE: If the synchronizing piston does not move after applying air pressure, move the primary or secondary rocker arm up and down manually by rotating the crankshaft clockwise. Page 2874 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 2444 A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 1183 9. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 10. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 11. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Without the Honda PGM Tester or HDS Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment. 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Remove the glove box, then remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls. NOTE: If any DTCs are stored, clear and ignore them. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel fill cap, and relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. 7. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Page 7123 19. Scrape or wipe any excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the rear window, use a soft shop towel dampened with alcohol. 20. Let the adhesive dry for at least 1 hour, then spray water over the rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the rear window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after rear window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly. 21. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. - Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads). Page 1260 Disclaimer Page 7940 Cruise Control Switch: Testing and Inspection Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement Cruise Control Master Switch Test/Replacement 1. Release the clips of the switch and push the switch (A) out of the panel, then disconnect the 5P connector (B) from the master switch. 2. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. If there is no continuity, replace illumination bulbs (C) or the switch. Page 6587 The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 94-95 Accord, Civic, Del SOL, Prelude & 95 Odyssey 1994-95 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Civic with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1994-95 Prelude with dealer-installed security system 1995 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode. 3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted. 4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash after each transmitter code is accepted. 5. Release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. 96-98 Civic EX & Except EX, Civic 1996-98 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system 1996-98 Civic with dealer-installed security system Page 5670 Key Reminder Switch: Testing and Inspection Ignition Key Switch Test NOTE: For more key-in beeper information, refer to the circuit diagram and input test. When the ignition key is in the ignition switch, the key-in beeper circuit of the multiplex control unit senses ground through the closed ignition key switch. When you open the driver's door, the beeper circuit senses ground through the closed door switch. When both switches are closed (driver's door and ignition), the key-in beeper in the gauge assembly is activated. 1. Remove the steering column upper and lower covers. 2. Disconnect the 6P connector. 3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be continuity with the key in the ignition switch. - There should be no continuity with the key removed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the steering lock assembly. Locations Camshaft Position Sensor: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index Page 7915 136. Under Left Side Of Dash (M/T) Locations Page 4348 134. A/T Reverse Relay Page 5186 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 3521 Shift Interlock Solenoid: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Test/Replacement 1. Remove the center lower cover. 2. Remove the shift lever console trim. 3. Shift the shift lever into the R position. 4. Remove the shift cable insulator (A) from the shift cable (B). 5. Slide the lock tab (A) down on the shift cable end holder (B). 6. Grasp the shift cable lock (C) in the middle with angle-jaw needle-nose pliers (D), and remove it from the shift cable end and shift cable end holder. Do not pry the shift cable lock with a screwdriver, it may damage the shift cable end holder. 7. Separate the shift cable end (A) from the shift cable end holder (B). Page 4645 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 232 7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue splice connector, strip off about 8 mm (5/16 inch) of insulation. NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper. 8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open. 9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again. 10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector. 12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material. Page 7553 10. Pull down on the retainer clip with a hook-shaped tool. Remove the lock cylinder. Then go to step 14. 11. Pull the glass run channel away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel by pulling it downward. 12. Remove the access seal, and disconnect the outer handle rod and the cylinder rod. Page 899 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3RD Clutch Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Disconnect the connector from the 3rd clutch pressure switch (A). 2. Remove the 3rd clutch pressure switch and use a new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part. 3. Reconnect the connector, making sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside it. Page 2052 57. Radiator Fan Motor Diagram Information and Instructions Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Page 7166 21. Leave the key in the cylinder. Reinstall the plastic retainer and spring if you removed them in step 16. Hold the plastic retainer and spring on the housing, and insert the inner cylinder. Rotate it left and right to engage the spring to the inner cylinder. Make sure the spring is properly seated to the inner cylinder. 22. Install the arm with a new cylinder rod clip and a new E-clip. 23. Make sure the key can be inserted and removed easily, and that the cylinder turns with the key. Page 4715 Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Wheel Sensors The wheel sensors are the magnetic contact-less type. The wheel sensors detect changing of magnetic polarity on the magnetic encoder contained inside the wheel bearings. The ABS control unit calculates the wheel speed based on signals received from the wheel sensor. NOTE: The wheel bearings are directional. When the wheel speed drops sharply below the vehicle speed, the outlet valve opens momentarily to reduce the caliper fluid pressure. The pump motor starts at this time. As the wheel speed is restored, the inlet valve opens momentarily to increase the caliper fluid pressure. Page 7680 ^ Refer to page 23-24 of the service manual, or ^ Refer to service bulletin 02-052 Initializing the OPDS Unit. 13. With side airbags: Enter the radio anti-theft code, then enter the customer's presets. Set the clock. 14. With side airbags: Reset the power window control unit: ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure the driver's window AUTO function does not work. ^ Start the engine. ^ Push down the driver's window power window switch to the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the driver's window all the way down. When the window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds. ^ Pull up the driver's power window switch to raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds. ^ If the driver's window AUTO function does not work, repeat this power window control unit reset procedure. ^ Keep the engine running. 15. With side airbags: Do the idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Let the engine warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes. Disclaimer Page 8360 Page 7769 Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Testing and Inspection Hatch Latch Switch Test 1. Open the hatch and remove the hatch trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the hatch latch switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the hatch latch switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. - There should be continuity with the hatch open. - There should be no continuity with the hatch closed. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch. Page 1874 81. Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) Locations Cruise Control Switch: Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 2270 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) (Part 2) ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P) Page 5613 12. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A) while holding the nuts (B), and remove the bolts and nuts. 13. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (c) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E) with a plastic hammer while drawing the knuckle outward, then remove the knuckle. NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft joint may come off. 14. Install the knuckle/hub/hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: ^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the knuckle. ^ Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values. ^ First install all the components and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values. Do not place the jack against the ball joint pin of the lower arm. ^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it. ^ Install a new lock pin on the castle nut after torquing. ^ Use a new spindle nut on reassembly. ^ Before installing the new spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft. ^ Replace the self-locking nuts, damper pinch bolts and nuts with new ones. ^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of the brake disc. ^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel. ^ Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. Wheel Bearing Replacement 1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a hydraulic press. Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard. Hold onto the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear. 2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the special tool, a commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press. Locations 26. Transmission Housing (A/T) Page 5896 7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B). 8. Install the splash guard (c), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque. 9. Press a wheel bearing (A) onto the hub (B) using the special tools and a press. Page 8279 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 5536 The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate the gauge: ^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark. ^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and, after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge to read +1. NOTE: You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive. If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you are sitting in the vehicle. Page 6621 On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number from one of the original transmitters. If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500) 552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time). You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be applied to the order. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 94-97 Accord 5-Door EX, 95-98 Odyssey EX 1994-97 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1995-98 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: ^ The system accepts up to two transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.) 3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will exit the programming mode.) 4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode. 5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of programming the first transmitter. 7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 96-04 Accord, CRV, DelSOL, Ody., Prelude, S2000, Insight, Pilot 1996-02 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1998-02 Accord DX & LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system Page 5592 Alignment: Service and Repair Wheel Alignment The suspension can be adjusted for front camber, front toe, and rear toe. However, each of these adjustments are interrelated to each other. For example, when you adjust toe, the camber changes. Therefore, you must adjust the front wheel alignment whenever you adjust camber or toe. Pre-Alignment Checks For proper inspection and adjustment of the wheel alignment, do these checks: 1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Make sure the suspension is not modified. 3. Check the tire size and tire pressure. Tire size: Front/rear: P215/70R16 99S Tire pressure: Front: 220 kPa (2.2 kgf/cm2, 32 psi) Rear: 235 kPa (2.4 kgf/cm2, 34 psi) 4. Check the runout of the wheels and tires. 5. Check the suspension ball joints. (Hold a wheel with your hands, and move it up and down and right and left to check for wobbling). 6. Bounce the vehicle up and down several times to stabilize the suspension. Caster Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacture's instructions. Check the caster angle. Caster angle: 1°50' ± 1° If the measurement is within specifications, measure the camber angle. - If the measurement is not within specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Camber Inspection Use commercially-available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Check the camber angle. Camber angle: Front: -0°13' ± 45' Rear: -1°00' ± 45' If the measurement for the front camber is outside the specification, go to front camber adjustment. - If the measurement for the rear camber is outside the specification, check for bent or damaged suspension components. Front Camber Adjustment The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or both of the damper pinch bolts with the smaller diameter adjusting bolt(s). The difference System Diagnosis Exhaust Gas Recirculation: Testing and Inspection EGR Passage Replacement 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the two bolts (A) securing the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve bracket and remove the two bolts (B) securing the harness bracket. 3. Remove the upper radiator hose (A), heater hose (B), water bypass hose (C) and connecting pipe mounting bolt (D). 4. Remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) passage (A). 5. Install the EGR passage with a new gasket (B). 6. Install the other parts in the reverse order of removal. 7. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Page 2894 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. A/F Sensor Replacement Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair A/F Sensor Replacement A/F Sensor Replacement Special Tools Required O2 sensor wrench, Snap-on YA8875, SP Tools 93750, or equivalent, commercially available 1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A), then remove the A/F sensor (B). 2. Install the A/F sensor in the reverse order of removal. Page 6036 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 6797 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Component Locations Door Switch: Component Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index Page 336 7. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P MES (memory erase signal) connector, as shown. Do not use a jumper wire. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 10. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 11. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. Page 2034 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 2940 67. Behind Glove Box Page 7074 9. Open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the original key with its flat side down into the center jaw up to the key stop. Slide the key blank with its flat side down into the right jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaws with the jaws knob to lock the keys into place. Visually inspect both keys for proper alignment in the jaws. 10. Loosen the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs on the clamp carriage. With the clamp carriage lever, adjust the clamp carriage to position the tracer and the cutter bit over the middle of the two locked key blades. Tighten only the spring tension knob when done. NOTE: The clamp carriage has a spring system that puts lateral pressure on the tracer and cutting bit to make it easier to cut sidewinder-type keys. Do not tighten the lateral tension adjustment knob. This knob should be left loose. 11. Turn on the cutter motor with the motor start switch. [NOTICE] ^ To avoid damaging the locking jaws while cutting, keep your hand off the vertical carriage lever. Pressure on the lever will change the cutting depth. * ^ To avoid breaking the cutter bit, never back up while cutting.* ^ Wear proper eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, etc.) Page 137 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220 Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information 98-011 February 20, 2004 Applies To: ALL Keyless Remote Transmitter Information (Supersedes 98-011, dated February 6, 2003) Updated information is shown by asterisks and a black bar. This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering, and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below. Page 6027 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 5460 Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install New Terminals HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. Page 973 Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair ATF Temperature Sensor Test/Replacement 1. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). 2. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 3. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and lift it up to create clearance between the transmission and front subframe. 4. Disconnect the shift solenoid harness connector. 5. Remove the bolt (A) securing the bracket (B) of the ATF cooler inlet line (C) on the shift solenoid valve cover (D), and remove the line bolt (E) with sealing washers (F). 6. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover (D), gasket (G), and dowel pins (H). 7. Remove the bolt (A), and remove the shift solenoid harness connector (B). 8. Measure ATF temperature sensor resistance between the No. 6 and No. 7 terminals of the shift solenoid harness connector. Page 1814 14. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0009, evenly to the oil pan mating surface of the chain case and to the inner threads of the holes. NOTE: Do not install the parts if 4 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing old residue. 15. Install the new O-ring (A) on the chain case. Set the edge of the chain case (B) to the edge of the oil pan (C), then install the chain case on the cylinder block (D). NOTE: When installing the chain case, do not slide the bottom surface on the oil pan mounting surface. Page 5393 6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector. 7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses, then remove the fuses. 8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on the ELD to remove it. 9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the bar into the new ELD. Page 2269 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P) (Part 1) Page 7222 2. Slightly loosen the striker bolts, and adjust the striker in or out to get the proper measurement. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 3. Check the tailgate for drag by holding in the release lever and opening and closing the tailgate. ^ If the tailgate does not drag, go to step 5. ^ If the tailgate drags, go to step 4. 4. The tailgate strikers will drop when loosened. Mark the original position before loosening the striker bolts. Slightly loosen the striker bolts, and adjust the strikers up and down to eliminate any drag. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). 5. Check the adjustment of the hatch. The hatch edge should be even with or 1 mm below the fender. ^ If the adjustment is correct, go to step 7. ^ If the adjustment is not correct, go to step 6. 6. If the hatch sits out too far, screw the hatch edge cushions in two full turns. If it sits in too far, screw the hatch edge cushions out two full turns. 7. Check the hatch for latch drag by holding in the release lever and opening and closing the hatch door. ^ If the latch does not drag, the repair is complete. ^ If the latch drags, go to step 8. 8. Slightly loosen the center striker bolts. While holding in the release lever, open and close the hatch to align the striker. Adjust the striker as needed to eliminate any drag. Torque the striker bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft). Disclaimer Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors Engine Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors 03-020 April 2, 2010 Applies To: All OBD II-equipped models except Passport OBD II DTCs and Their Associated Monitors (Supersedes 03-020, dated March 29, 2003, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks) *REVISION SUMMARY Numerous DTCs were added. Refer to the list for details.* Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list. DTC P0AA6 thru P0A9E Page 3962 ^ The left end goes behind the notch on the interlock lever. ^ Once the spring is correctly installed, make sure the lever moves freely and returns properly. 10. Insert the plunger into the interlock solenoid, then install the solenoid using a new screw. Make sure the groove of the solenoid plunger is in the fork on the lever. 11. Install a new plastic cover on the interlock solenoid. 12. Check the operation of the ignition switch key interlock: ^ Set the parking brake, and turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). ^ While pressing the brake pedal, shift the transmission to Neutral. ^ Try turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0) - If you cannot turn the switch to LOCK (0), your repair was successful; go to step 15. - If you can turn the switch to LOCK (0), the interlock is not working; go to step 13. Page 7716 7. Release the hooks (A) securing the seat cushion cover (B) from the recline cover. 8. Pull back the seat cushion cover. Remove the screw (A), and pull the recline cover (B) down to release the hook (C). 9. Remove the nut (D), then remove the recline strap (E) from the recline adjuster lever (F). 10. Pull upon the center tray (A) to detach the clips, then remove the tray with the recline strap (B). Page 5699 37. Remove the special tool, and apply power steering fluid to the surface of the valve seal ring (A). 38. Apply power steering fluid to the inside of the special tool. Set the larger diameter end of the special tool over the valve seal ring, and move the special tool up and down several times to make the valve seal ring fit in the pinion shaft groove. 39. Remove the special tool, turn it over, slide the smaller diameter end over the valve seal ring. Move it up and down several times to make the valve seal ring fit snugly in the pinion shaft groove. 40. Apply power steering fluid to the surface of the special tool. Slip two new seal rings (A) over the special tool from the smaller diameter end, and expand them. Install only two rings at a time from each end of the pinion shaft sleeve (B). Note these items when installing the seal rings: ^ Do not over-expand the seal rings. Install the resin seal rings with care so as not to damage them. After installation, be sure to contract the seal rings using the special tool (sizing tool). ^ There are two types of sleeve seal rings: black and brown. Do not mix the different types of rings as they are not compatible. 41. Align the special tool with each groove in the sleeve, and slide a sleeve seal ring into each groove. After installation, compress the seal rings with your fingers temporarily. 42. Apply power steering fluid to the seal rings on the sleeve, and to the entire inside surface of the special tool, then slowly insert the sleeve into the special tool. 43. Move the sleeve back and forth several times to make the seal rings fit snugly in the sleeve. Be sure that the seal rings are not twisted. Page 7986 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 6827 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0420 Stored PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0420 Stored 03-031 July 8, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Element with M/T - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1 ...3L009732 2003 Element: MIL Comes On With DTC P0420 (Supersedes 03-031, dated June 3, 2003) Updated information is shown with black bars. SYMPTOM The MIL is on and DTC P0420 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold) is set. PROBABLE CAUSE Specific driving conditions may cause the ECM/PCM to incorrectly interpret sensor inputs, setting DTC P0420. CORRECTIVE ACTION Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM). REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ^ Interactive Network (iN) CD (June '03 or later) ^ iN Workstation ^ Honda Interface Module (HIM): T/N EQS05A35570 ^ PC Interface Cable (RS232): T/N VET-02002832 ^ AC Adapter (110 VAC/12 VDC Power Supply): T/N VET-02002426 These tools are already at your dealership. To order additional HIMs, interface cables, or AC adapters, call the Honda Tool and Equipment Program at 1-888-424-6857. Phone lines are open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. CT. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 37820-PZD-A02 H/C 7371180 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: B03 Template ID: 03-031A Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 365 Rear Window Defogger Component Location Index Page 8338 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5811 2. Remove the flange bolt (A) from the bottom of the damper. 3. Remove the canister mounting bolts, and loosen the EVAP canister (B) mounting (only left side). 4. Remove the flange nuts (A) from the top of the damper in the cargo area. 5. Remove the damper assembly (A) from the body. Disassembly/Inspection A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 81 4. Make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it. Diagram Information and Instructions Trailer Connector: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 4707 Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Description and Operation ABS Modulator The ABS modulator consists of inlet solenoid valves, outlet solenoid valves, reservoir, pump, and the pump motor. The modulator reduces the caliper fluid pressure directly. It is a circulating-type modulator because the brake fluid circulates through the caliper, reservoir, and the master cylinder. The hydraulic control has three modes: normal braking, pressure retaining, and pressure reducing. The hydraulic circuit is an independent four channel type, one channel for each wheel. Normal braking mode .............................................................................................................................................................. .............. Inlet valve open, outlet valve closed ..................................................................................................................................................... Master cylinder fluid is pumped out to the caliper. Pressure retaining mode .............................................................................................................................................................. ............ Inlet valve closed, outlet valve closed ....................................................................................................................................... Caliper fluid is retained by the inlet valve and outlet valve. Pressure reducing mode .............................................................................................................................................................. .............. Inlet valve closed, outlet valve open ....................................................................................................................................... Caliper fluid flows through the outlet valve to the reservoir. ........................................................................................................................................... When in pressure reducing mode, the pump motor is ON. ..................................................................... The reservoir fluid is pumped out by the pump, through the damping chamber, to the master cylinder. ............................................................................................................................................. When stopping ABS operation, the pump motor is OFF. Page 2234 DTC P1679 thru P1860 Page 4751 1. Remove the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: Page 185 210. Under-hood Fuse/relay Box Page 8195 ERROR: undefined OFFENDING COMMAND: ‘~ STACK: Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information Seat Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Fabric Upholstery Wrinkle Information Use a Steamer to Smooth Out Fabric Upholstery A garment steamer and a stiff-bristle brush make a great team for removing those nasty wrinkles, lines, or impressions in fabric upholstery. You can buy an inexpensive, small, hand-held garment/ fabric steamer from a number of different manufacturers. Some of these units even come with a handy built-in brush. Once you've got your steamer, follow the manufacturer's instructions to get it ready for use. Then apply a generous amount of steam to the problem area. Keep the steamer moving slowly over the area until it's hot and moist. A Word of Caution: Go easy on the steam if you're cleaning the front passenger seat in a vehicle with side airbags. Moisture can adversely affect or damage the OPDS sensors in the seatback. While the area is hot and moist, use a stiff-bristle brush, or the built-in brush if your steamer has one, to work the fabric back and forth and up and down. Stubborn areas might need more steam and brushing, so be patient and stay with it. It's worth the effort. Page 1585 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Testing and Inspection VTEC Solenoid Valve Test VTEC Solenoid Valve Inspection 1. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve connector and the VTEC oil pressure switch connector. 2. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly from the cylinder head assembly. 3. Measure resistance between VTEC solenoid valve 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2. 4. If the resistance is within specification, check the solenoid valve filter (A) for clogging. If it is clogged, replace the solenoid valve filter, the engine oil filter, and the engine oil. Page 6718 Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem or if I have technical questions about the unit? Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access code, then call Tech Line: 1. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE. 2. Select Tech Line. A dropdown menu appears, then select Tech Line. The ISIS main screen appears. 3. Select SEARCH BY VEHICLE, and enter any vehicle with any keyword like NAVI, AUDIO, or RES. 4. At the top of the screen you will see this statement: If you cannot resolve the problem with the information below, then click Tech Line. Select Tech Line. 5. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT. 6. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line. Question: Do I need a Tech Line reference number to order a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit? Answer: No. Question: What year and model audio/navigation/RES unit can I order through the warranty audio order program? Answer: Most current models are available through the vehicle's standard warranty period. If your application is not available, you will receive a message instructing you to call the Re manufactured Parts Dealer Service Group at 888-997-7278. Question: How can I track my order once I submit it? Answer: To track your order, go the Warranty Audio Order VIN Inquiry screen on the iN. 1. From the iN main menu, click on PARTS. 2. Click on Parts Ordering. 3. Click on Audio VIN Inquiry. 4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, then click on Submit. The AUDIO VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD REF (Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER. The status of your order is displayed by one of these codes: Codes generated by RPO Tech Line: ^ PEND - Your order is waiting to be processed by RPO Tech Line. ^ HOLD - Your order is waiting for additional dealer diagnosis. ^ ERR - Your order caused an error; call. ^ DENY - RPO Tech Line denied your order; call. ^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts. Codes generated by AHM Parts Division: ^ BO/TOS - Your order is on back order or is temporarily out of stock. ^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled contact your assigned parts center. Page 2292 68. Behind Glove Box Page 5200 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 7400 Disclaimer Cutting Procedure - By Copying 1. Press the ON/OFF button in the middle of the setting unit keypad. (This powers up the keypad.) 2. Turn the clamp unit lock lever to the left to release the clamp unit, and slide it all the way to the left until it stops. Turn the lever to the right to lock the clamp unit in place. 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer and cutter bit are centered directly over the base of the center and right jaws. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer and the cutter bit just touch the base of each fixed jaw. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the fixed jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right three clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer three clicks lower than the cutter bit has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the setscrew, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. Tighten both the lateral and spring tension adjustment knobs. 8. Make sure the center and right jaws are free of any metal shavings or debris. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Page 3843 Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Diagrams 1. 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) 2. 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch (A/T) Page 125 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat Technical Service Bulletin # 08-097 Date: 081218 Campaign - Poor Heater Output/Engine Overheat 08-097 December 18, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Product Update: Restricted Heater Core or Radiator Causes Poor Heating or Engine Overheating (Supersedes 08-097, dated December 18, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar or asterisks). * BACKGROUND Contamination in the factory fill engine coolant can eventually cause restrictions in the heater core and the radiator, leading to poor heater performance or, in rare cases, engine overheating.* VEHICLES AFFECTED Not all vehicles within the affected VIN ranges have contaminated coolant. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must check at least one of these items: ^ The customer has a notification letter. ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed. Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These vehicles should be updated before they are sold or leased. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the engine coolant and, depending on the condition of the coolant and the heater core, do one of these repairs: ^ Replace the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, and the heater breather hose, and drain/refill the coolant. ^ Replace the radiator, the water bypass hoses, the heater breather hose, and the heater core, and drain/refill the coolant. Page 4761 13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube. NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun. Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures. Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body. 1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector. Page 7588 Power Mirror Switch: Testing and Inspection Power Mirror Switch Test/Replacement 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector from the power mirror switch (A). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the switch. Page 6851 Diagram 118-2 Page 7498 Power Door Lock Actuator: Testing and Inspection Door Lock Actuator Test Driver's door: 1. Remove the driver's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the actuator. 3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to the table. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only momentarily. 4. If the actuator does not work as specified, replace it. Passenger's door: 1. Remove the passenger's door panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the actuator. Page 1136 8. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A). 9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A). 11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off. NOTE: To prevent the remaining fuel in the fuel feed line or hose from flowing out, use a rag or shop towel. - Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. - Do not use tools. - If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push the connector until it comes off easily. - Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new one. 12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and do the following items: - ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. - Power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets. - Reset the clock. Page 1073 9. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap each rear tire back to the front, one at a time, and test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Replace the bad tire, then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec after swapping the front and rear tires, go to step 10. 10. Test-drive a known-good donor vehicle on the same road you used earlier, and check its pull. 11. Swap all four tires from the donor vehicle with the tires on your customer¡C■s vehicle. 12. Test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, swap the tires back to the donor vehicle one at a time, and test-drive your customer¡C■s vehicle on the same road you used earlier. Do this until the drift comes back. Replace the bad tire(s), then return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec using the donor vehicle tires, contact Tech Line for further action. Technical Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502 Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right 06-068 May 2, 2009 Applies To: ALL *Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces 90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)* *REVISION SUMMARY The title description was revised.* SYMPTOM While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left. BACKGROUND New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code. In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center, use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim. For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service Bulletin. PROBABLE CAUSES Several conditions can cause the vehicle to pull or drift: ^ Wheel alignment ^ Tires ^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case) CORRECTIVE ACTION Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one of four repair procedures. Page 8386 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 8641 4. Make these input tests at the connector. - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it. Page 2732 Page 281 PGM-FI Main Relay 1 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Five-terminal type: PGM-FI Main Relay 2 Type 1, 2 Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7065 24. Remove the key. Reinstall the retainer clip in the door handle, and push the lock cylinder into place. 25. Civic: Reconnect the cylinder rod. 26. CR-V: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the rod protector. 27. Element: Reconnect the cylinder rod, the outer handle rod, and the access seal. Reinstall the lower run channel. 28. Reinstall the plastic covering, and lower the window glass. Install the door panel. 29. Check that the door lock and handle operate smoothly. Disclaimer Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension Technical Service Bulletin # 06-009 Date: 080205 Campaign - OPDS Unit Warranty Extension 06-009 February 5, 2008 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRS DTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3 (Supersedes 06-009, dated September 21, 2007) Updated information is shown with asterisks. BACKGROUND *NOTE: Because of a class action settlement, the warranty extension coverage for the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor on 2002 Accords, 2002-04 Civics, 2003-04 Civic Hybrids, 2002-04 CR-Vs, 2003 Elements, 2002 Odysseys, and 2003-04 Pilots purchased or leased between April 13, 2002, and November 7, 2006, is now 10 years or 157,500 miles, whichever occurs first. For more information, refer to Service Bulletin 06-085, Warranty Extension: Vehicle Warranty Mileage.* Several vehicle models may have a problem with the OPDS (occupant position detection system) that causes the SRS indicator to stay on. Typically, one or more of these DTCs will be set: ^ SRS DTC 15-1 (faulty OPDS unit or OPDS not initialized) ^ SRS DTC 15-2 (faulty side airbag indicator circuit) ^ SRS DTC 15-3 (faulty OPDS sensor) To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, American Honda is extending the warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss, or any that has been issued a salvage, branded, or similar title under any state's law. To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry Page 5009 136. Under Left Side Of Dash (M/T) Page 2903 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 5951 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 1913 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Update the PGM-FI software (refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control Units/Modules). 2. Verify the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software update repaired the vehicle by starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then use the HDS to check the DTC P0507 in OBD STATUS. ^ In HDS, click on Honda Systems. ^ Click on PGM-FI. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) Oxygen Sensor: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC PA200 (Air Fuel Ratio) 03-027 May 6, 2003 Applies To: 2003 Accord L4 2-door- From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A020275 2003 Accord L4 4-door- From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A071758 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C073601 2003 Element 2WD - From VIN 5J6YH1...3L000001 thru 5J6YH1...3L006131 2003 Element 4WD - From VIN 5J6YH2...3L000001 thru 5J6YH2...3L014546 MIL Comes On With DTC P2A00 (P2900) SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P2A00 (P2900)* [Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range Performance Problem]. * If you use the PGM Tester to retrieve codes, you may see DTC P2900; it's the same as DTC P2A00. PROBABLE CAUSE The air fuel ratio sensor is faulty. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for DTC P2A00 (P2900). If P2A00 (P2900) is present, replace the air fuel ratio sensor, and clear the DTC. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 36531-RAA-A01 H/C 7136187 Defect Code: 072 Contention Code: C99 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. PARTS INFORMATION REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or the PGM Tester to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector), and check for DTCs. Locations Air Bag Control Module: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard Page 7318 10. Detach the hooks, then remove the front roof side pads (A) and rear roof side pads (B) from both sides. 11. Install the headliner in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - When re installing the headliner through the tailgate opening, be careful not to fold or bend it. Also, be careful not to scratch the body. - Check that both sides of the headliner are securely attached to the trim. - With skylight: When installing the roof trim (A), align the roof trim ends with the opening flange of the skylight frame as shown. Page 4386 Skill Level: Repair Technician INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: ^ If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. ^ If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE Page 3125 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 6882 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 4014 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Diagnostic Aids Fuse Block: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 4488 CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the windshield and, if needed, remove the high spots on the windshield flange (see VEHICLES AFFECTED). PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Operation Number: 831120 Flat Rate Time: 1.7 hours Failed Part: P/N 04731-SCV-A00 H/C 7310774 Defect Code: 5EM00 Symptom Code: Q2500 Template ID: 06-084A Skill Level: Repair Technician DIAGNOSIS The only diagnosis is to ensure that the windshield crack(s) were not the obvious result of a large object (such as a rock or a baseball) hitting the glass. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the windshield: ^ Refer to pages 20-37 and 20-38 of the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, steps 1 thru 9, or ^ Online, enter keyword WINDSHIELD, select Windshield Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 9. 2. Check to see if the VIN is within the range listed under VEHICLES AFFECTED. ^ If the VIN is within the listed range, go to step 3. ^ If the VIN is not within the listed range, go to step 5. Page 5083 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 8668 Horn Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 5415 Jumper Wire Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse. Short Finder (Short Circuit Locator) Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to the location of the short. To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin. Troubleshooting Precautions Troubleshooting Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. CAUTION: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring. While You're Working 1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles. 2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place. CAUTION: Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings. - Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Troubleshooting Tests Service and Repair Headliner: Service and Repair Headliner Removal/Installation Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program. NOTE: - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend and scratch the headliner. - Be careful not to damage the dashboard and other interior trim. 1. Remove these items: - Ceiling light - A-pillar trim, both sides - Quarter pillar trim, both sides - Rear roof trim - D-pillar trim, both sides - Rearview mirror - Skylight (for some models) 2. Release the tabs (A) on both sides with the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set, then remove the sunvisor cap (B) from the bracket (C). Turn the cap, and remove it. 3. Remove the sunvisor (A) and holder (B) from both sides. 1. Using a T25 Torx bit, remove the screws. 2. Remove the sunvisor from the body and holder. Air Bag Disarming and Arming Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming General Precautions Please read the following precautions carefully before performing airbag system service. Observe the instructions described, or the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries. - Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. NOTE: The memory is not erased even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are disconnected from the battery. - Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs. - Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks, or deformation. - Before removing any SRS parts (including disconnection of connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector. - Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury. - Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag. - The original radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure to get the customer's radio code and write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons before disconnecting the battery cable. - Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the radio code, then enter the customer's radio station presets, and set the clock. Do the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure and the power window control unit resetting procedure. Page 1571 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Description and Operation VTEC/VTC - The i-VTEC has a VTC (variable valve timing control) mechanism on the intake camshaft in addition to the usual VTEC. This mechanism improves fuel efficiency and reduces exhaust emissions at all levels of engine speed, vehicle speed, and engine load. - The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile. - The VTC changes the phase of the intake camshaft via oil pressure. It changes the intake valve timing continuously. VTC System - The VTC system makes continuous intake valve timing changes based on operating conditions. - Intake valve timing is optimized to allow the engine to produce maximum power. - Cam angle is advanced to obtain the EGR effect and reduce pumping loss. The intake valve is closed quickly to reduce the entry of the air/fuel mixture into the intake port and improve the charging effect. - The system reduces the cam advance at idle, stabilizes combustion, and reduces engine speed. - If a malfunction occurs, the VTC system control is disabled, and the valve timing is fixed at the fully retarded position. Specifications Axle Nut: Specifications Front Axle Nut ...................................................................................................................................... ................................................. 245 nm (181 lb. ft.) Rear Axle Nut ...................................................................................................................................... .................................................. 181 nm (134 lb. ft.) Page 3344 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Service and Repair Scuff Plate: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Door Areas Special Tools Required KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * *Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program NOTE: - Put on gloves to protect your hands. - Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components. - Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels. 1. Remove the trim as shown. 2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. - Push the clips and hooks into place securely. - Make sure the tweeter connector is plugged in properly (for some models). Page 5480 134. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) 135. Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory) Service and Repair Towing Information: Service and Repair Towing If the vehicle needs to be towed, call a professional towing service. Never tow the vehicle behind another vehicle with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous. Emergency Towing There are three popular methods of towing a vehicle. Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads the vehicle on the back of a truck. This is the only way to transport the vehicle. To accommodate flat-bed equipment, the vehicle is equipped with towing hooks (A) and tie down hooks (B). The towing hook can be used with a winch to pull the vehicle onto the truck, and the tie down hooks slots can be used to secure the vehicle to truck. Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lifts them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground. Never tow the vehicle with wheel lift equipment. Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the vehicle off the ground. The vehicle's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is attempted. This method of towing the ELEMENT is unacceptable. The only recommended way of towing the ELEMENT is on a flat-bed truck. Towing the 4WD ELEMENT with only two wheels on the ground will damage parts of the 4WD system. The 2WD ELEMENT may also be towed with the front wheels off the ground, or with all four wheels on the ground. If the 2WD ELEMENT cannot be transported by flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If due to damage, the vehicle must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, or if the vehicle is towed with all four wheels on the ground, do the following: Manual Transmission - Release the parking brake. Page 3370 68. Behind Glove Box Page 5807 7. Check that the cutout (A) in the side of the upper spring seat (B) is in the position shown. If the cutout is out of position, remove all the components from the strut spring compressor. Go to step 2, and reassemble the spring and upper spring seat accordingly. 8. Hold the bottom of the damper with your hand, and compress the spring. Do not compress the spring excessively. 9. Install the 12 mm nut (A) on the damper shaft (B). Hold the damper shaft with a hex wrench (C), and tighten the 12 mm nut to the specified torque. 10. Remove the damper assembly from the strut spring compressor. Installation 1. Lower the lower arm, and position the damper assembly in the body. Turn the damper mounting base so the "AL" or "/'R" mark (A) faces toward the outside of the vehicle. Page 4734 Page 4946 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Diagram Information and Instructions Interior Lighting Module: Diagram Information and Instructions Terminal Numbering System Terminal Numbering System Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6. Component Locations Door Switch: Component Locations Entry Light Control System Component Location Index Page 1305 Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for additional information. Engine Oil Honda Motor Oil: P/N 08798-9023 API Classification .................................................................................................................................... Make sure the label says "For Gasoline Engines". SAE Viscosity .............................................................................. ............................................................................................................................... 5W-20 Page 5255 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 4219 VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the master cylinder, and apply a thin film of silicone grease to the clutch line fitting. REQUIRED MATERIALS Silicone Grease: P/N 08C30-B0234M, H/C 6110928 Brake Fluid: P/N 08798-9008, H/C 4423802 PARTS INFORMATION Civic/Civic Hybrid Master Cylinder: P/N 46920-S5A-G04, H/C 7569452 Accord/Civic Si/CR-V/Element Master Cylinder: P/N 46920-57A-A02, H/C 7604507 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 211101 Flat Rate Time: 0.6 hour (All Civics) 0.8 hour (Accord/CR-V/Element) Failed Part: Civic/Civic Hybrid: P/N 46920-55A-G01 H/C 6571103 Accord/Civic Si/CR-V/Element: P/N 46920-S7A-A01 H/C 6729031 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 04201 Page 6796 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the secondary locks. Page 8099 2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the secondary locks. 2. Remove the terminal from the female half. Page 6938 Body Control Systems: Description and Operation System Descriptions The multiplex control system has four internal functions: - Multiplexing (send multiple signals over shared wires) - Wake up/sleep (runs at full power only on demand to reduce battery draw) - Fail-safe (fixes or ignores faulty signals) - Self-diagnosis (Mode 1 for system DTCs, Mode 2 for input lines) The system controls the function of these circuits: - Entry light control (ignition key light and ceiling light) - Wiper/washer (intermittent wipe and park functions) - Interlock system - Power Door Lock - Gauge assembly, (temperature gauge, and indicators) - HVAC (Compressor and fan control) - Key-in reminder - Lights-on reminder - Seat belt reminder Multiplex Communication To reduce the number of wire harnesses, digital signals are sent via shared multiplex communication lines rather than sending normal electrical signals through individual wires. - The input signals from each switch are converted to digital signals at the central processing unit (CPU). - The digital signals are sent from the transmitting unit to the receiving unit as serial data signals. - The transmitted signal is converted to a switch signal at the receiving unit, and it operates the related component or performs a function - There are exclusive communication lines between the ECM/PCM, the gauge assembly, and the under-dash fuse/relay box. Wake-up and Sleep The multiplex control system has "wake-up" and "sleep" functions to decrease parasitic draw on the battery when the ignition switch is OFF. - In the sleep mode, the multiplex control unit stops functioning (communication and CPU control) when it is not necessary for the system to operate. - As soon as any operation is requested (for example, a door is unlocked), the related control unit in the sleep mode immediately wakes up and begins to function. - When the ignition switch is turned OFF, and the driver's or front passenger's door is opened, then closed, there is about a 40 second delay before the control unit goes from the wake-up mode to the sleep mode. - If any door is open, the sleep mode will not function. - If a key is in the ignition switch, the sleep mode will not function. - When in sleep mode, the draw is reduced from 200 mA to less than 35 mA. Fail-safe To prevent improper operation, the multiplex control system has a fail-safe function. In the fail-safe mode, the output signal is fixed when any part of the system malfunctions (for example a faulty control unit or communication line). Each control unit has a hardware fail-safe function that fixes the output signal when there is any CPU malfunction, and a software fail-safe function that ignores the signal from the malfunctioning control unit and allows the system to operate normally. Page 6216 2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (B) from the cable reel. 3. Remove the two Torx bolts (A) using a Torx T30 bit. 4. Remove the driver's airbag (B). Installation 1. Place the new driver's airbag (A) in the steering wheel, and secure it with new Torx bolts (B). Page 6622 1997-01 CR-V with dealer-installed security system 1996-97 del Sol with dealer-installed security system 1996-98 Odyssey with dealer-installed security system *1999-04 Odyssey LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* 1996-01 Prelude with dealer-installed security system *2000-04 S2000 with dealer-installed security system 2000-04 Insight with dealer-installed security system 2003-04 Pilot LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system* Programming the Transmitter NOTES: ^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. ^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be used for this step.) 3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery. Adjustments Rear Door Latch: Adjustments Rear Door Unlock Synchronization Adjustment 1. Remove these items: - Door panel - Plastic cover 2. Install the inner handle by securing the screws. 3. Close the door securely. 4. Pull the inner handle (A), and measure the inner handle stroke (B) when unlocking the door. Inner handle stroke: 36 mm (1.4 in) - If the inner handle stroke is less than the specification, loosen the bolts (C) slightly, and move the plates (D) in the direction shown by the minus arrow. - If the inner handle stroke is more than the specification, loosen the bolts (C) slightly, and move the plates (D) in the direction shown by the plus arrow. 5. Tighten the bolts, and recheck the inner handle stroke. 6. Remove the inner handle, and reinstall the plastic cover and door panel. Page 4985 EXAMPLE C: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE D: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: Page 6760 1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. (See the body section of the appropriate service manual.) 2. Replace the security control unit. ^ Civic: Remove the security control unit, and install the new security control unit. ^ * CR-V and Element: Remove the security control unit and microphone. Install the new security control unit and new microphone.* 3. Reprogram the keyless receiver unit. NOTE: The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored in the keyless receiver unit memory. If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased. It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors and the trunk/tailgate/hatch are closed, and that you have all of the remotes the customer wishes to use. ^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. Page 1865 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Description and Operation VTEC/VTC - The i-VTEC has a VTC (variable valve timing control) mechanism on the intake camshaft in addition to the usual VTEC. This mechanism improves fuel efficiency and reduces exhaust emissions at all levels of engine speed, vehicle speed, and engine load. - The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile. - The VTC changes the phase of the intake camshaft via oil pressure. It changes the intake valve timing continuously. VTC System - The VTC system makes continuous intake valve timing changes based on operating conditions. - Intake valve timing is optimized to allow the engine to produce maximum power. - Cam angle is advanced to obtain the EGR effect and reduce pumping loss. The intake valve is closed quickly to reduce the entry of the air/fuel mixture into the intake port and improve the charging effect. - The system reduces the cam advance at idle, stabilizes combustion, and reduces engine speed. - If a malfunction occurs, the VTC system control is disabled, and the valve timing is fixed at the fully retarded position. Page 1845 Troubleshooting Tests Testing for Voltage When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground. 2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for Continuity When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = an open). 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest "OHMS" range. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity. Testing for Voltage Drop Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a Page 766 Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Sensor B Replacement CMP Sensor B Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve. 3. Disconnect the CMP sensor B connector (A). 4. Remove CMP sensor B (B). 5. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 2627 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Diagrams 211. A/C Compressor Clutch (EX; Canada: DX; '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 6522 12. Watch the SRS indicator: ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the OPDS unit is initialized. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HDS. ^ If the indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the OPDS unit is initialized, but SRS DTCs need to be cleared. Go to step 13. ^ If the indicator stays on without first blinking, the OPDS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru 12. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the HDS. 14. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire. 15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 16. Watch the SRS indicator. (It comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.) Disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off. 17. When the SRS indicator comes on again, connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on. 18. When the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds. (The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate that the memory has been cleared.) 19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds. 20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). (The SRS is OK if the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then goes off.) If the DTC clearing fails, repeat the process two more times. If the DTC clearing fails again, check for set SRS DTCs, and troubleshoot them with the appropriate service manual. REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the seat-back cover from the front passenger's seat: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the removal steps under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the removal steps in the procedure. 2. Slide the seat-back cushion (foam) off the seat-back frame. (The OPDS sensor is built into the seat-back cushion.) 3. Slide a new seat-back cushion over the seat-back frame. Make sure the cushion is centered. 4. Install the seat-back cover: ^ Using the appropriate service manual, go to section 20 (Body), and do the installation step under Front Seat Cover Replacement, or ^ Online, enter keyword SEAT COVER, then select Front Seat Cover Replacement from the list, and do the installation step in the procedure. 5. Initialize the OPDS unit: ^ To initialize with the HDS, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: HDS Method in this service bulletin. ^ To initialize with the SCS service connector, go to Initializing the OPDS Unit: Manual Mode in this service bulletin. Disclaimer Page 6215 Air Bag: Service and Repair Driver Airbag Spring-Loaded Lock Connector Spring-loaded Lock Connector Some SRS system connectors have a spring-loaded lock. Front Airbag Connectors: Disconnecting To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not on the connector. Connecting 1. To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed back by the pawl (C). Do not touch the sleeve. 2. When the connector halves are completely connected, the pawl is released, and the spring-loaded sleeve locks the connector. Removal and Installation Driver's Airbag Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. Page 2596 23. Left Side Of Engine Locations Cruise Control Component Location Index Page 2766 9. Knock Sensor Diagrams 203. Cable Reel Specifications Piston: Specifications Piston Skirt O.D. at 13 mm (0.5 inch) from bottom of skirt No. letter or A Standard or New ................................................................................................................................ 86.980 - 86.990 mm (3.4244 - 3.4248 inch) Service Limit ................................................................... .............................................................................................. 86.930 mm (3.4224 inch) Clearance in cylinder Standard or New .......................................................................................................................................... 0.020 0.040 mm (0.0008 - 0.0016 inch) Service limit .................................................................................... ........................................................................................... 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) Page 184 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 1361 2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal. 3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing. 4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short. 5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the point of the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short. How to Replace Connector Terminals Terminal Replacement Procedure HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminal availability. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS. Removing the Terminal Locations Intake Air System - Component Location Index SRS Unit Replacement Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair SRS Unit Replacement SRS Unit Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work. 2. Disconnect the driver's and front passenger's airbag connectors. 3. Disconnect the side airbag connectors. 4. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 5. Remove the dashboard center lower cover. 6. Pull down the carpet, then remove the torx bolt (A) from the SRS unit. 7. Disconnect the connectors and remove the two torx bolts (A), then pull out the SRS unit. Installation 1. Install the new SRS unit (A) with Torx bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS unit; push them into position until they click. Page 5759 2. Remove the wheel cap, wheel nuts, and front wheel. 3. Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt (A). 4. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force. 5. Raise the stake (A) of the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut. 6. Remove the brake disc retaining flat screws (A). 7. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively. Page 1473 52. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal E7 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 57. NO - Go to step 53. 53. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 54. Remove the glove box, then remove the PGM-FI main relay 1 (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 55. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.4 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 56. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.6 ECU (ECM/PCM) (15A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 1. Page 1808 11. Remove the ground cable (A), and remove the upper engine mount bracket (B). 12. Remove the side engine mount bracket. 13. Remove the chain case. 14. Loosely install the crankshaft pulley. Page 7990 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 5684 21. Remove the steering gearbox (A) through the wheelwell opening on the driver's side. Be careful not to damage the hoses, lines, and wire harnesses. 22. Remove the P/S line mounting bracket (A). Steering Gearbox Installation 1. Install the P/S line mounting bracket (A). Page 7009 Front Door Window Motor: Diagrams 55. Power Window Motor, Front Passenger's 149. Power Window Motor, Driver's Page 4137 171. Transmission Range Switch (AT) Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A). 2. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS. 4. Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result. If the HDS has not determined the cause of the failure, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and test. 5. Remove the air cleaner housing. 6. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 7. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid valve A terminal. Standard: 3 - 10 Ohms 8. If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 9. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. 10. If no sound is heard, remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 11. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt. 12. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve moves. 13. Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A body. Page 2190 Thermostat: Service and Repair Replacement 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Clean the dirt off the quick connector (A), thermostat cover, and lower radiator hose. 3. Pull out lock (B) by hand, then wiggle the quick connector to remove it from the thermostat cover. Do not use any tools to remove the quick connector. 4. Remove the thermostat (A). 5. Install the thermostat with a new O-ring (B). 6. Check the quick connector (A) and set ring (B) for cracks or damage. If the connector and/or set ring are cracked or damaged, replace the connector. 7. Make sure the set ring is in place inside the quick connector. If the set ring is off the connector, replace the quick connector. 8. Replace the O-ring (c) in the quick connector. 9. Check the lock (D) for damage or deformation. If the lock is damaged or deformed, replace it. When installing the new lock to the connector, push it straight down along the groove. 10. Clean the connecting surface of the thermostat cover (E), then apply clean engine coolant around the connecting surface. Page 6669 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 1174 Air Filter Element: Service and Repair Air Cleaner Element Inspection/Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner bolts (A) and the air cleaner housing cover (B). 2. Remove the air cleaner element (C) from the air cleaner housing (D). NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element. 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Page 6959 2. Install the bumper in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: - Make sure the rear bumper engages the hooks of the side spacers and upper brackets on both sides securely. - Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones. Page 784 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 4952 (A/T) Page 4445 7. Apply a small amount of Permalube grease to the base of the new lever. Then attach the slide hammer to the new lever pin, insert the lever into the ignition switch, and seat the pin with the slide hammer. 8. Check the installed height of the pin with vernier calipers. If the height is more than 5.0 mm, the pin is not seated. If needed, reattach the slide hammer, and seat the pin. NOTE: It's normal for the interlock lever to be loose, even when the pin is fully seated. 9. Install a new spring on the lever. Make sure you attach the ends of the spring correctly: ^ The right end goes into the slot on the ignition switch. Locations Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index 29. Rear Of Engine Compartment Page 417 Doors - Component Location Index - Front Door Part 1 Locations Cabin Air Filter: Locations Located behind glove box, in the blower unit. Page 7985 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Windshield - Procedure To Check For Cracks Windshield: All Technical Service Bulletins Windshield - Procedure To Check For Cracks SOURCE: Honda Service News April 2004 TITLE: What Caused That Windshield Crack? APPLIES TO: 2003-04 Element SERVICE TIP: Need to know what caused a crack windshield in a 2003-04 Element (or any other vehicle)? Follow these steps to find out: 1. Look for an external chip in the windshield crack. - If you see a chip, a flying object caused the crack. - If you don't see a chip, then run the tip of a pin or a ball point pen along the length of the crack. If the pin or pen stops or skips in a crater, a flying object caused the crack. If the pin or pen glides smoothly along the entire length, then internal stresses or a deformed windshield flange could be the cause. Go to step 2. 2. Remove the windshield and all the sealer (see page 20-37 of the 2003-04 Element S/M). (You can also find this info in ISIS under SEARCH BY VEHICLE. Use the keyword Windshield, and select Windshield Replacement from the list.) 3. Carefully place the new windshield on the windshield flange. 4. Insert a feeler gauge between the flange and the windshield, and run it along the entire length of the windshield. - If the gauge hangs up, remove the windshield, and check the flange for deformation. Refer to S/B 03-028, 2003 Element: Windshield Is Cracked at the Lower Corners, for windshield flange repair info. - If the feeler gauge doesn't hang up, the install the new windshield (see page 20-37 of the S/M or go into ISIS). Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle Idle Speed: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0507/High Cold Idle 06-040 August 8, 2006 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL *2003-04 Element - ALL* MIL Is On With PGM-FI DTC P0507 Stored and/or Idle Is Slightly Higher Than Expected After a Cold Start (Supersedes 06-040, dated July 14, 2006) Updated information is shown with black bars and asterisks. SYMPTOM The MIL is on with PGM-FI DTC P0507 stored, and/or the idle is slightly higher than expected when started cold. PROBABLE CAUSE The PCM software misinterprets inputs for the PGM-FI idle air control setting. CORRECTIVE ACTION Use the HDS to update the ECM/PCM PGM-FI software. SOFTWARE INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 125517 Flat Rate Time: 0.3 hour Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-315 H/C 8424152 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Page 4692 118. Brake Pedal Position Switch Page 210 70. Behind Glove Box Page 5812 1. Compress the damper spring with a commercially available strut spring compressor (A) according to the manufacturer's instructions, then remove the self-locking nut (B) while holding the damper shaft (C) with a hex wrench (D). Do not compress the spring more than necessary to remove the nut. 2. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the damper as shown in the Exploded View. 3. Reassemble all the parts, except for the spring. 4. Compress the damper assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not, the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced. 5. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, or binding during these tests. Reassembly Page 5578 ^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the passenger's side. ^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the driver's side. ^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn. 4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Technical Service Bulletin # SN030915 Date: 030901 Suspension - Drifting & Pulling At Highway Speeds SOURCE: Honda Service News September 2003 TITLE: Drifting and Pulling at Highway Speeds APPLIES TO: All Models SERVICE TIP: Got a customer complaining that the vehicle drifts or pulls when driving at highway speeds? Use this handy procedure to diagnose and repair the problem. NOTE: Before doing the procedure in this article, check ISIS for related S/Bs and other S/N articles for the model you're working on. 1. Check if your customer has original equipment wheels and tires and that the ride height hasn't been modified. - If the wheels, tires, and ride height are OK, go to step 2. - If the wheels or tires aren't original equipment or the ride height was modified, stop here. Aftermarket wheels or tires or a ride height that's been modified pose challenges that this article doesn't cover. Resolve these issues with your customer before going further. 2. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. 3. Find a straight stretch of 4-lane road where you can safely (and legally) go 60 mph for several minutes. Ideally, you want a road that's perfectly flat, but most roads have a crown that¡C■s anywhere from 1.5° to 1.75° so they can drain. Flat Road - While driving at 60 mph, use a stopwatch to time how long it takes to drift one full lane from center to center. Record the time. Repeat this, driving in the opposite direction to cancel the effects of wind, then average the two times you recorded. If the vehicle drifts one full lane from center to center in less than 6 seconds, go to step 4. If not, return the vehicle to your customer. Crowned Road - While driving at 60 mph, check if the vehicle climbs the crown. Do this for both a left- and right-crowned road. A drift to the right on a right-crowned road and a drift to the left on left-crowned road are considered normal. If the vehicle climbs the crown or it drifts to the right on a left crowned road, go to step 4. 4. Record the original toe, camber, and caster readings. On Passports, set the ride height to spec if needed. Refer to Ride Height Adjustment in S/B 99-043, Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration. 5. Loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and move the rear beam (it¡C■s the entire front subframe on some models) to get the maximum amount of caster and equal side-to-side camber. (As little as 0.4° of camber stagger can cause the vehicle to pull.) 6. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, then set the front and rear toe to the maximum toe-in spec. (Toe-in improves vehicle stability and reduces the tendency to drift or pull.) 7. Test-drive the vehicle on the same road you used earlier. - If the drift is now within spec, return the vehicle to your customer. - If the drift is still out of spec, go to step 8. 8. Swap the front and rear tires on each side of the vehicle, then adjust the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the doorjamb sticker. Page 7729 20. Confirm that the problem is resolved. If the driver's seat still rocks, look for other causes. 21. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check the SRS indicator. If the indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then turns off, the SRS is OK. If the indicator stays on, check for codes, and do normal troubleshooting. 23. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio and your customer's radio station presets. Set the clock. 24. Initialize the driver's window auto-up feature: ^ Make sure the driver's window is fully closed. ^ Push down and hold the window switch until the window goes all the way down. ^ Pull back and hold the window switch until the window goes all the way up, then hold the switch for at least 2 more seconds. 25. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure: ^ Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. ^ Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). ^ Let the engine idle (throttle fully closed with all electrical items off) for 10 minutes. Disclaimer Locations Exterior Lights Component Location Index Page 4296 Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Unit Replacement Special Tools Required Hub disassembly tool 07965-SA70100 - Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200 - Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500 - Driver 07749-0010000 - Support base 07965-SD90100 Knuckle Replacement 1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. Page 2093 2. Check the clarity and the color of the drained coolant: ^ If the coolant is clear, and its color is bright blue or bright green, go to step 3. ^ If the coolant is cloudy, or if its color is not bright blue or bright green, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 3. Remove the radiator cap, and check for corrosion at the cap opening: ^ If there is no corrosion at the cap opening, go to step 4. ^ If you see corrosion at the cap opening, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. 4. Add new coolant into the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-7 of the service manual, and do steps 5 thru 12, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 5 thru 12. 5. Center-punch a completion mark above the first character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Do a VIN status inquiry to see if the heater core was already replaced. (It may have been replaced using Service Bulletin 07-076, Poor Heating Due to Restricted Heater Core.) If the heater core was replaced, do not do step 2. 1. Replace the radiator: ^ Refer to page 10-13 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 2 thru 9, or Page 6699 NOTE: Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Warranty Audio VIN Inquiry screen on the iN. For details, go to WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS in this service bulletin. 7. You will receive a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit packed in a reusable shipping box. Save this box and the packing materials. You must return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this box. Otherwise your dealership risks being billed a core loss charge, ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit. 8. Remove the failed audio/navigation/RES unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or, ^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate removal procedure from the list. 9. Install the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit: ^ Refer to the appropriate component section of the service manual or ^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate installation procedure from the list. 10. If the remanufactured unit has a shipping cover and shipping screws, make sure you transfer them to the faulty unit being returned. Also be sure to transfer all of the mounting brackets to the replacement unit. Failure to do this may result in dash squeaks and rattles. NOTE: If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is stuck in the unit, leave it there for these reasons: ^ The manufacturer needs it for diagnosis and testing. ^ Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable core. Customer media (CDs, CD magazines, DVDs, DVD-As, cassette tapes, etc.) will be properly removed by the supplier at the point of tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealer. Make sure the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not disassembled! If the core is disassembled, your dealership will be debited a core loss charge ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit. 11. Put the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit came in. NOTE: If you do not return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this same box, your warranty claim will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership. Parts Manager: 12. The Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60 days. Print out a copy to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE. ^ Click on Transactions. ^ Click on Advanced Search, and enter a date range. ^ Click on Filtered by Service. ^ Under Transaction Description, click on Warranty Audio Order, then go back to the top of the page and click on Search. ^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form. ^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon. 13. Print out a copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement to put in the box with your core return: ^ From the iN main menu, click on PARTS. Page 5193 1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half. 2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half. 3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE C: Page 101 Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 923 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder: Customer Interest Body - Door Lock Cylinders Bind 03-068 October 29, 2004 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Door Lock Cylinder Binds (Supersedes 03-068, dated April 20, 2004) Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars. SYMPTOM The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn. PROBABLE CAUSE The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn. VEHICLES AFFECTED CORRECTIVE ACTION Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers. Locations Power Mirror Switch: Locations Power Mirrors Component Location Index Page 6861 Page 5805 7. Lower the lower arm, and remove the damper assembly (A). Disassembly/Inspection 1. Compress the damper spring with a commercially available strut spring compressor (A) according to the manufacturer's instructions, then remove the self-locking nut (B) while holding the damper shaft (C) with a hex wrench (D). Do not compress the spring more than necessary to remove the nut. 2. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the damper as shown in the Exploded View. 3. Reassemble all the parts, except for the upper spring seat and spring. 4. Compress the damper assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not, the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced. 5. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, and binding during these tests. Page 6842 HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS 1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range the terminal will accommodate. NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures. 2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool. 3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from the kit.) NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again. 4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3. 6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. Page 1121 ^ Click on the magnifying glass on the bottom right-hand corner of the screen. ^ Click on the status of P0507. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS shows "PASS ED", return the vehicle to the customer. ^ If the P0507 OBD STATUS does not show "PASSED", continue with normal troubleshooting. Disclaimer Page 5079 Locations Timing Component Alignment Marks: Locations Caution: Incorrect removal or installation of the timing belt can result in damage to internal engine components. For complete Timing Chain Removal and Installation information, please refer to Timing Chain; Service and Repair. Page 1257 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 5230 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE E: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: Page 7477 On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number from one of the original transmitters. If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500) 552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time). You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be applied to the order. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR1220. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 94-97 Accord 5-Door EX, 95-98 Odyssey EX 1994-97 Accord 5-door EX with factory-installed keyless entry system 1995-98 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system Programming the Transmitter NOTE: ^ The system accepts up to two transmitters. ^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode. 1. Open the driver's door. 2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.) 3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will exit the programming mode.) 4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode. 5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code. 6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of programming the first transmitter. 7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode. Ordering a Transmitter Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures. Batteries for the Transmitter The battery number is CR2016. Each transmitter uses two batteries. 96-04 Accord, CRV, DelSOL, Ody., Prelude, S2000, Insight, Pilot 1996-02 Accord with dealer-installed security system 1998-02 Accord DX & LX with dealer-installed keyless entry system Page 1650 VTEC System - The VTEC system changes the cam profile to correspond to the engine speed. It maximizes torque at low engine speed and output at high engine speed. - The low lift cam is used at low engine speeds, and the high lift cam is used at high engine speeds. VTEC/VTC Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A This sensor detects camshaft angle position for the VTC system. Page 7496 77. Driver's Door 80. Front Passenger's Door Page 5591 Alignment: Specifications Trim Height Honda Motor Company does not list ride height/trim height specifications. Page 8368 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself Keyless Entry Transmitter: All Technical Service Bulletins Antitheft System - Alarm Will Not Arm/Arms By Itself 05-025 July 1, 2005 Applies To: 2001-05 Civic - ALL 2002-05 CR-V - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL Accessory Security System Changes Modes By Itself (Supersedes 05-025, dated June 10, 2005, to update the information indicated by black bars and asterisks.) SYMPTOM The security system will not arm or it arms by itself. PROBABLE CAUSE Key switch contact chatter causes the control unit to change modes. CORRECTIVE ACTION * Civic: Replace the security control unit, and reprogram the remote(s).* * CR-V and Element: Replace the security control unit and the microphone, then reprogram the remote(s).* * NOTE: You must replace the microphone on the CR-V and Element because the security control units are matched to their microphones when they are manufactured. Using the original microphone may result in security system problems.* PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Before starting, make sure you have all of the remotes (three maximum) the customer wishes to use. Page 8475 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 2905 204. ECM/PCM Page 5370 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 3801 16. Pry the O/D switch cover (A), and remove it. 17. Remove the O/D switch (A) by expanding its locks, and remove the screws (B), shift lever button (C), spring (D), and shift lever knob (E). 18. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A), then separate the A/T gear position indicator panel (B) from the shift lever bracket (C). Page 1859 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Page 4049 ^ The vehicle is shown as eligible on a VIN status inquiry. In addition, check for a punch mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means the ignition switch key interlock has already been inspected/repaired. Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your used vehicle inventory. As a matter of federal law, these vehicles must be repaired before they are sold. Should a dealership sell an unrepaired vehicle that subsequently causes an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims. To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin. CORRECTIVE ACTION Inspect the ignition switch and, if needed, install a Key Interlock Repair Kit. PARTS INFORMATION Key Interlock Repair Kit: P/N 06351-SDA-000 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Interlock Slide Hammer: T/N 07AAC-S84A100 NOTE: ^ An initial quantity of Permalube grease to lubricate the sliding surface of the interlock lever is included with the slide hammer. To order more Permalube, use P/N 08734-0030. ^ To order a replacement clamping bolt for the slide hammer, use T/N 07AAC-S84A400. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 35100-SDA-A31 Defect Code: 5GC00 Symptom Code: R4400 Page 8680 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Page 3734 Updating Honda Control Modules screen on the HDS tablet, the HDS pocket tester, or the iN workstation. MVCI:* iN Workstation: NOTE: The HDS tablet and pocket tester screens are similar. *^If the Database Update listed in the service bulletin is later than that shown by the software, please see the the procedures for software installation in the following documents in Tool Information on ISIS (go to General Publications, then Tool Information): - MVCI User Guide (see HDS MVCI Firmware Update section) - Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) Tablet Setup Instructions - Installation Instructions for HDS ( see PC Software for the GNA600, HIM or Pocket Tester ID)* ^ Do not connect an additional power supply to the updating equipment when it is connected to the vehicle; power is supplied through the DLC. ^ To ensure that the control module/unit is not permanently damaged during updating, vedfy that the vehicle's 12-volt battery is fully charged before starthg an update. NOTE: If the vehicle's 12-volt battery drops below 10 volts during the update, the programming status bar may go past 100 percent, or the updating tool may display an error message. ^ If you have a problem during an update (D4/ immobilizer indicator flashes, update tool freezes, etc.), you can minimize the chances of damaging the control unit/module by doing one or more of these actions: - CRITICAL: Keep the ignition switch in ON (II). - Connect a jumper battery (DO NOT connect a battery charger). - Disconnect the updating tool from the vehicle's DLC. - Reboot the updating tool. - Reconnect the updating tool to the vehicle's DLC, and retry the updating procedure. *UPDATING WITH THE MVCI Make sure you have the latest control module (CM) Update software loaded from your HDS PC to your MVC I. For loading instructions and other Page 6602 96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System 1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system NOTES: ^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work. ^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times. This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be accepted. ^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual. Programming the Transmitter 1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor underneath the seat. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. 3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.) 4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK, then to ON. Page 4590 134. A/T Reverse Relay Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect Shift Interlock Switch: Recalls Recall 10V364000: Ignition Interlock Defect VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL: MODEL YEAR(S): Honda/Accord 2003 Honda/Civic 2003 Honda/Element 2003-2004 MANUFACTURER: Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) MFR'S REPORT DATE: August 04, 2010 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 10V364000 NHTSA ACTION NUMBER: EA09001 COMPONENT: Electrical System: Ignition POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 384220 SUMMARY: Honda is recalling certain model year 2003 Honda Accord, Civic two and four door, and model year 2003-2004 Honda Element vehicles. The interlock lever of the ignition switch may unexpectedly deform, which can allow the interlock function of a vehicle with an automatic transmission to be defeated. CONSEQUENCE: Removal of the ignition key when the gear selector of a vehicle with an automatic transmission has not been shifted to the park position can allow the vehicle to roll away, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Dealers will remove the original interlock pin and lever within the ignition switch, and replace them with newly, designed components. This service will be performed free of charge. The safety recall is expected to begin on or about September 29, 2010. Owners may contact Honda at 1-800-999-1009. NOTES: Honda safety recall No. R44. Owners may also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov. Page 8554 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Page 5459 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 1401 4. Release the three clips, and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder. 5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box. Page 7424 ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition to ON (II). ^ Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button. ^ Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or unlock button again. ^ Within 10 seconds, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock button. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored. ^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and pull out the key. 4. Confirm proper operation of the transmitters. Disclaimer Page 2063 Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location Index Deployment Tool Check Procedure Seat Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Deployment Tool Check Procedure Deployment Tool Check 1. Connect the yellow clips to both switch protector handles on the tool; connect the tool to a battery. 2. Push the operation switch: green means the tool is OK; red means the tool is faulty. 3. Disconnect the battery and the yellow clips. Page 3321 Page 2171 Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relays Test Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it. NOTE: The turn signal/hazard relay input test. Normally-open type A: Check for continuity between the terminals. - There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals. - There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. Page 7178 3. Use the clamp carriage lever to position the clamp unit so the tracer is directly over the flat surface of the code device, just ahead of the cam blades. 4. Pull the vertical carriage lever toward you until the tracer just touches the flat surface ahead of the cam blades. Watch the arrows on the keypad: ^ If the double-headed arrow in the middle of the keypad lights green, the tracer and cutter bit are properly aligned. ^ If the arrow on the left of the keypad lights red, the cutter bit is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the left until the double-headed arrow lights green. ^ If the vertical arrow on the right of the keypad lights red, the tracer is not touching the jaw. Turn the micrometric ring nut above the tracer to the right until the double-headed arrow lights green. *5. Turn the micrometric ring nut to the right five clicks so the cutter bit is slightly higher than the tracer. The arrow on the left should light red. Raise the vertical carriage. NOTE: Setting the tracer five clicks lower than the cutter bit at this point has the effect of making the cutter bit cut the duplicated key a little shallower. This will protect the locking jaws from being damaged.* 6. Optional: Loosen the set screw, and adjust the hand rest to a comfortable position. Tighten the screw. 7. Pull the clamp carriage lever toward you until the clamp carriage clicks into its end-of-run position. 8. Clean any metal shavings or debris out of the center jaw. (A soft-bristle toothbrush is ideal for this purpose.) Then open the jaws with the jaws knob, and slide the key blank with its flat side down into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw with the jaws knob to lock the key blank into place. Visually inspect the key for proper alignment in the jaw. 9. Set and lock the cam sets on the code device. ^ Starting with the left cam set, make sure the lock pin is pulled all the way out. (This releases the cams.) Page 5089 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 8583 Diagram 114-3 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Page 1390 - For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT ^ If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps, disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt modes with the engine running and the headlights on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim. Under normal operating conditions, the charging system operates in the 14.5-volt mode. ^ If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored in the ECM/PCM: ^ For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD ^ For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY ^ For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights from dimming. REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003-05 Accord Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY 1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box: ^ Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005-06 Odyssey Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation from the list. 2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS. REPAIR PROCEDURE C - ELEMENT 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system. Write down the customer's audio unit presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover. Page 3070 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Page 3478 *T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications ^ 2003-05 Civic ^ 2004-05 Civic Hybrid ^ 2003-05 Civic GX (CNG) ^ 2004-05 S2000 ^ 2002-06 CR-V ^ 2003-06 Element ^ 2003-04 Odyssey ^ 2003-04 Pilot Ordering Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels: Refer to the parts catalog for correct key(s) for your application. PROGRAMMING KEYS Depending on the type of key blank you use, do this: ^ If you have used a T-5 programmable key blank ("T-5" stamped on the shank), you must code the key's transponder with the Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator (see S/B 99-053, Ilco Immobilizer key Code Duplicator). ^ If you have used a Honda key blank, add the* transponder code of the new key to the immobilizer system with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). ORDERING INFORMATION *To order the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, replacement cutter bits, fixed jaws and mobile jaws, T-5 programmable key blanks, and practice key blanks, contact the Honda Tool and Equipment Program by calling 888-424-6857 or using the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program Catalog.* Order Honda key blanks through normal parts ordering channels. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION None. This service bulletin is for information only. *DETERMINING WHICH KEY TO USE T-5 keys require less time to program and should be the first choice. They can be used as long as the following requirements are met: ^ Do you have the customer's operating key? ^ Does the vehicle fall within the T-5 Sidewinder Key Applications? ^ Does your dealership have an Ilco Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator? If the answer to all three questions on the above is yes, the 1-5 key option is the easier procedure. If you answered no to any of the questions, you should order the key(s) from the parts catalogue, and program it using the HDS.* BEFORE YOU START CUTTING 1. Get the original key or the key number from your customer or from the iN. 2. Get the applicable key blank. 3. If cutting by code, look up the applicable 9-digit cutting code for the key number. Refer to the code book Honda High Security key Codes that comes with the machine. Page 7132 Page 5049 3. Place a 29.4 mm (1.16 in.) outside diameter plastic pipe on the armature. 4. Move the brush holder (A) up to the pipe (B) while holding the pipe so the brushes do not pop out from the holder. Armature Inspection and Test 5. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure. 6. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature. 7. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the given specifications, or recondition with # 500 or # 600 sandpaper (B). Locations Blower Motor Relay: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 946 Page 2976 PARTS INFORMATION WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003 H/C 7987571 Defect Code: 03217 Symptom Code: 07411 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS If the headlights dim when the engine is running, connect the HDS to the DLC: 1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn on the headlights. 3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List. ^ If the ELD value is less than 18 amps: - For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A - ACCORD - For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B - ODYSSEY Page 5957 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Page 8222 Page 242 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (Part 1) Page 2491 NOTE: You need to make the corrections listed in CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS at the end of this service bulletin. TRACER AND CUTTER BIT INSTALLATION 1. Turn the power switch on the back of the machine to ON. (This turns on the built-in work light.) 2. Use the Allen wrench from the built-in tool drawer to loosen the setscrew on the left sleeve of the vertical carriage. Slide the tracer all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. 3. Turn the plastic shield on the right sleeve of the vertical carriage so you can access the setscrew on the sleeve. Use the Allen wrench to loosen the screw. Slide the cutter bit all the way into the sleeve, and tighten the screw. Turn the plastic shield so the open side is in the back. MACHINE COMPONENTS Page 483 35. Clutch Pedal Position Switch (M/T: EX, '04-'06 USA: LX) Page 4769 6. Remove the pad retainers (A). 7. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. 8. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks. 9. Install the pad retainers. 10. Apply Molykote M77 grease (P/N 08798-9010) to both sides of the pad shim (A), the back of the pads (B), and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake discs and pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the discs and pads. 11. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the pads with the wear indicators (C) on the inside. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency. 12. Push in the piston (A) so the caliper will fit over the pads. Check the brake fluid level. The brake fluid may overflow if the reservoir is too full. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down. Page 4462 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring. 6. Wipe off any debris from the lever's sliding surface on the ignition switch with a clean cloth or a cotton swab. NOTE: To keep debris out of the ignition switch, do not clean it with compressed air. Page 1809 15. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the auto-tensioner. 16. Align the holes on the lock (A) and the auto-tensioner (B), then insert a 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) diameter pin (C) into the holes. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to secure the pin. 17. Remove the auto-tensioner. Page 5524 2. Clear the SRS DTC memory. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check that the SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. ^ If the SRS indicator goes off and the DTC does not return, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE and replace the appropriate rear door harness. ^ If the SRS indicator stays on and the DTC returns, this bulletin may not apply. Follow the service manual procedure to troubleshoot the DTC. Refer to page 23-46 for SRS DTC 3-1, or page 23-60 for SRS DTC 4-1 in the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual. NOTE: The conditions that cause the resistance in C771 or C761 to trigger DTC 3-1 or DTC 4-1 are intermittent and difficult to repeat. If the code returns after it is cleared, it is likely that there is another problem in the system. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the rear side area trim panel: ^ Refer to page 20-60 of the 2003-2006 Element Service Manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords REAR TRIM, then select Interior Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Side Area from the list. 2. Remove the rear door panel: ^ Refer to page 20-19 of the service manual, or ^ Online, enter keywords REAR PANEL, then select Rear Door Panel Removal/Installation from the list. 3. Disconnect the rear door subharness from the floor wire harness. NOTE: The left rear door harness is shown; the right rear door harness is similar. 4. Remove the rear door hinge lower cover. Page 3339 - Before connecting connectors, make sure the terminals (A) are in place and not bent. - Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). - The backs of some connectors are packed with dielectric grease. Add grease if necessary. If the grease is contaminated, replace it. - Insert the connector all the way and make sure it is securely locked. - Position wires so that the open end of the cover faces down. Handling Wires and Harnesses - Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their respective wire ties at the designated locations. Locations Fuel Supply System - Component Location Index Page 6916 1. Verify The Complaint Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the problem area. 2. Analyze The Schematic Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause. Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes. 3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible. 4. Fix The Problem Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures. 5. Make Sure The Circuit Works Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur. Test Equipment Test Equipment CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result. Test Light and DVOM On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: the light should go on. Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on. Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on. If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity. Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement. Page 2641 Electric Load Sensor: Locations PGI-FI System - Component Location Index Page 1612 12. Right Side Of Engine Page 4567 16. Shift Control Solenoid Valve E (A/T) Page 620 23. Left Side Of Engine Page 8469 How to identify Connector Terminals Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they're in. The cavities are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them. NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard 1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the connector face. The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown above is #6. Circuit Schematics Diagnostic Aids Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Page 237 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (Part 1) Page 6068 PARTS INFORMATION REQUIRED MATERIALS WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION Failed Part: P/N 19010-PZD-A51 H/C 7272065 Defect Code: 5HE00 Symptom Code: Q9200 Skill Level: Repair Technican INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container: ^ Refer to page 10-6 of the 20032006 Element Service Manual, and do steps 1 thru 4, or ^ Online, enter keyword COOLANT, select Coolant Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 thru 4. Page 8369 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 8129 2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (B) from the cable reel. Front Passenger's Airbag 3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from dashboard wire harness B. Side Airbag 4. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness. Seat Belt Tensioner Page 140 7. Crimp the insulation crimp. - If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact. - If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape. 8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the above mentioned NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure the terminal is locked into place. 10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector. How to Install Pigtail Terminals HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is too Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Key: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's what typically happens: Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels, which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column. Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply before the engine is shut off. Page 8063 Door Switch: Diagrams 4. Door Switch, Driver's 5. Door Switch, Front Passenger's 38. Door Lower Switch, Left Rear Page 8556 All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector. Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at shortcuts to Popular Information/Locations that shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details. The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing. Wires Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554. Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution Schematics Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Locations Headlamp Relay: Locations Relay And Control Unit Locations - Engine Compartment Page 4617 18. Pry the lock tabs on the back of the O/D switch/shift lock solenoid connector (A), and remove the back cover (B). 19. Remove the terminal (C) from the connector by pushing the lock tab (D) up in the connector using a thin blade screwdriver (E). Remove all four terminals. 20. Remove the O/D switch harness clamp from the shift lever bracket and from the harness, and pull the O/D switch harness out to remove the shift lever assembly. 21. Insert the new O/D switch harness (A) into the shift lever ring (B), and route the harness through the groove (C) of the shift lever (D) into the hole (E). Do not pinch the harness. 22. Wind the O/D switch harness (A) one turn around the clamp (B) on the bottom of the shift lever. 23. Install the harness clamp (C) at the reference tape (D) on the harness, then install the clamp in the hole (E) of the shift lever bracket (F). Page 3895 Countershaft Sensor: Description and Operation Countershaft Speed Sensor This sensor detects countershaft speed. Locations Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations VTEC/VTC - Component Location Index 13. Right Side Of Engine Page 5681 9. Remove the engine wire harness clamp and clip (A) from the two mounting brackets. 10. Loosen the adjustable hose clamp (A) and disconnect the return hose (B) 11. Loosen the 14 mm flare nut (c) and disconnect the feed line (D). 12. Open the hose holders (A) on the return hose, and remove the return hose clamp bolt (B). Page 6302 ^ If the OPDS unit has an original part number, go to step 6. ^ If the OPDS unit has a new part number (refer to PARTS INFORMATION) or higher, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: OPDS SENSOR REPLACEMENT. 6. Recline the seat-back to access the OPDS unit mounting screws. 7. Remove the mounting screws from the OPDS unit, and gently pull out the unit. 8. Disconnect the OPDS connectors, then remove the OPDS unit. 9. Install a new OPDS unit, then snap on its cover. 10. Slip the seat-back cover over the OPDS unit. 11. On Accords, check the seat-back clip attachment bosses on the seat-back panel: ^ If the attachment bosses are OK, go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back has a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, do the repair procedure in S/B 02-010, Seat-Back Panel Is Loose or Detached. Then go to step 12. ^ If the seat-back does not have a pocket, and the attachment bosses are deformed or damaged, replace the seat-back. Then go to step 12. Page 960 7. Align the cutout (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold it in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position. 8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) blade (C). 9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge. Page 5030 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 8495 2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool. NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit. 3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate terminal repair kit. Page 1546 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagnostic Aids General Troubleshooting Information General Troubleshooting Information Tips and Precautions Before Troubleshooting 1. Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/relay box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections. NOTE: Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, otherwise you will damage the alternator diodes. - Do not attempt to crank the engine with the battery ground cable loosely connected or you will severely damage the wiring. Handling Connectors - Make sure the connectors are clean and have no loose wire terminals. - Make sure multiple cavity connectors are packed with dielectric grease (except watertight connectors). - All connectors have push-down release type locks (A). - Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach them to a mount bracket on the body or on another component. This clip has a pull type lock. - Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected unless you first release the lock and remove the connector from its mount bracket (A). - Never try to disconnect connectors by pulling on their wires; pull on the connector halves instead. - Always reinstall plastic covers. Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0606 Set PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0606 Set 04-048 September 3, 2004 Applies To: 2003-04 Accord L4 - ALL 2003-04 Element - ALL MIL Comes On With DTC P0606 SYMPTOM The MIL is on, and DTC P0606 (ECM/PCM processor malfunction) is set. PROBABLE CAUSE The ECM/PCM may incorrectly interpret a low battery voltage condition as a processor malfunction, setting DTC P0606. CORRECTIVE ACTION Update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module (HIM). REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ^ Interactive Network (iN) CD (September '04 or later) ^ iN Workstation ^ Honda Interface Module (HIM): T/N EQS05A35570 ^ PC Interface Cable (RS232): T/N VET-02002832 ^ AC Adapter (110 VAG/12 VDC Power Supply): T/N VET-02002426 These tools are already at your dealership. To order additional HIMs, interface cables, or AC adapters, call the Honda Tool and Equipment Program at 1-888-424-6857. Phone lines are open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. CT. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Failed Part: P/N 37820-RAA-A83 H/C 7611288 Defect Code: 07201 Symptom Code: 03203 Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. Locations Condenser Fan Motor Relay: Locations Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Page 4482 3. Inspect the mounting flange for any high spots, especially at the base of the A-pillar where the dashboard attaches. NOTE: You may need to remove some of the adhesive to inspect the area. ^ If you find any high spots, go to step 4. ^ If you don't find any high spots, go to step 5. 4. Using a hammer, carefully flatten the high spots so they are even with the rest of the area. If needed, apply touch-up paint to the flattened areas. NOTICE To prevent damage to the A-pillar and the surrounding area, do not use too much force with the hammer. 5. Install the new windshield: ^ Refer to pages 20-38 thru 20-42 of the service manual, steps 10 thru 25, or ^ Online, enter keyword WINDSHIELD, select Windshield Replacement from the list, and do steps 10 thru 25. Disclaimer A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Transmission Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Vehicle Speed Sensor Installation Precautions Install VSS Properly to Avoid Reman A/T Damage We can't emphasize enough how important it is to follow, to the letter, the installation instructions that come with a reman A/T. These instructions help ensure that you avoid damaging the A/T and score a successful repair. This is particularly true when it comes to installing the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Step 6 of the instructions tells you to make sure its gear is fully engaged and the VSS is fully seated before you tighten the retaining bolt. If you don't install the VSS properly, the speed sensor gear will get stripped and the A/T will be seriously damaged. So don't take risks with your customer's vehicle. Always follow these instructions to the letter. You can rest assured you're doing the job right. Page 8039 restricted to make a terminal repair. NOTE: To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it. 1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set. 2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece. This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal. NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires. 3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire. 5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail. Service and Repair Tailgate Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Tailgate Weatherstrip Replacement 1. Open the tailgate half-way, and hold it. 2. On both sides of the tailgate weatherstrip (A), detach the clips with a clip remover, and release the double-sided adhesive tape (B). 3. Remove the tailgate weatherstrip by pulling out on it. 4. Scrape off the remaining double-sided adhesive tape from the weatherstrip and tailgate, and clean the weatherstrip and tailgate surface with alcohol. Attach the new double-sided adhesive tape (3M 4213, or equivalent) to the weatherstrip. 5. Align the weatherstrip with both edges of the tailgate, and install the weatherstrip along the edge of the tailgate. Make sure there are no wrinkles in the weatherstrip. 6. Install the clips in both sides. 7. Check for water leaks. Locations Impact Sensor: Locations SRS Component Location Index Locations Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations 123. Left Side Of Engine Compartment Body - Liftgate Rattles/Hatch Open Indicator On Tailgate Striker: Customer Interest Body - Liftgate Rattles/Hatch Open Indicator On 04-022 March 8, 2008 Applies To: 2003-08 Element - ALL Hatch Open Indicator On, Rear Interior Light On, or Tailgate Rattles (Supersedes 04-022, dated April 13, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks) SYMPTOM The rear hatch open indicator or rear interior light comes on and/or the tailgate rattles. PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect striker position and/or improperly adjusted cushions. CORRECTIVE ACTION Check the striker and cushion adjustments. WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 823380 Flat Rate Time: 0.2 hour Failed Part: P/N 74813-SCV-A01 H/C 7286032 Defect Code: 07406 Symptom Code: 03228 Template ID: 04-022A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. With the hatch open, compare the level of the tailgate to the level of the taillights. The tailgate edge should be recessed 1 to 2 mm in relation to the taillight. ^ If the measurement is correct, go to step 3. ^ If the measurement is not correct, go to step 2. Page 7405 13. After completing the right edge, push all of the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, then trace the cam blades from back to front. (The cutter bit cuts the same contours into the left edge of the key from tip to head.) Turn off the cutter motor. 14. Release the vertical carriage lever. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Pull the vertical carriage lever towards you until the tracer touches the flat surface on the right side, at the front of the cams. Gently twist the lever clockwise to lock the vertical carriage at this height. Do not overtighten the lever. 15. Turn on the cutter motor, then retrace the cam blades from front to back. Push all the cam blades to the right until they touch the cams, and then retrace the cam blades from back to front (retracing cleans up the cuts on the key). Turn off the cutter motor. 16. Release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. Make sure the jaw is free of any metal shavings or debris. Turn the key over so the blank side is up, then slide it into the jaw up to the key stop. Close the jaw to lock the key in place. 17. Push all the cam blades to the left until they touch the cams. Repeat steps 10 through 15 to cut both edges on the other side of the key. 18. When you are done making the required cuts, release the vertical carriage lever. Open the jaw and remove the key. 19. Make sure the key works in the ignition switch and the locks. If the key does not work, recut the key, and try it again. 20. Depending on the type of key, code the key transponder. Equipment Service and Warranty To service the MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine, refer to section 7 of the MATRIX H Operating Manual. It tells you how to replace parts that commonly wear out such as the drive belt, the work light bulb, and the tension spring on the vertical carriage. It also covers checking and replacing fuses and replacing the printed circuit board for the setting unit keypad. If you have technical questions on the equipment, contact the Ilco Technical Assistance Department. Mail: Kaba Ilco Technical Assistance Department 400 Jeffreys Road Rocky Mount, NC 27804 Phone: 800-452-6872 Ext: 200, 384, 323, 398, 356 Fax: 252-446-4702 The MATRIX H Key Cutting Machine comes with a 3-year limited warranty. This warranty does not cover the cutter bit or the work light bulb. CODE BOOK CORRECTIONS In the code book Honda High Security key Codes, correct these errors: Pages 4 thru 51, code headings: ^ Incorrect: J H G F Z X E D C B M/S X ^ Correct: J H G F A X E D C B M/S X Page 2, last paragraph: Page 6022 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 1436 209. Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box Page 5427 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE F: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE G: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. How to Install New Terminals Page 2331 23. Left Side Of Engine Page 5368 3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Connectors Without a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size and shape. EXAMPLE A: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: 1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. Page 4712 Wheel Speed Sensor: Connector Locations 127. Under Left Rear of Vehicle (EX) 130. Under Right Rear of Vehicle (EX) Page 8445 141. Low Beam Cut And DRL Relays (Canada) Page 5344 1. Carefully pry the accessory power socket (A) out from the right rear side trim panel. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the socket. 3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. - If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and check for voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. - There should be battery voltage. - If there is no battery voltage, check for: poor ground (G 451, G551). - an open in the wire. - blown No. 18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - blown No. 2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. - faulty rear accessory power socket relay. Page 1416 problem. Circuits must be operating when checking voltage drop. 1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or switch) closest to the battery. 2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals. Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see. 3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present). Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM 1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load. Page 5920 69. Behind Glove Box Locations Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Locations 25. Transmission Housing 125. Transmission Housing (A/T) Locations Power Steering Pressure Switch: Locations Idle Control System - Component Location Index 29. Rear Of Engine Compartment Locations Throttle Position Sensor: Locations PGM-FI System - Component Location Index 21. Left Side Of Intake Manifold Page 239 ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) Page 6550 46. Under Left Side Of Dash Locations Starter Relay: Locations Starting System Component Location Index Page 4502 13. Attach the molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the edge of the windshield (C): - Be sure the alignment mark (D) of the molding lines up with the alignment mark (E) of the windshield. - Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. 14. Attach the molding upper seal (A) to the inside surface of the molding (B), and attach the non-woven fabric (C) as shown: - Be sure the molding upper seal and non-woven fabric line up with the alignment dots (D). - Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. 15 Install the clips to the body. Page 867 ^ Incorrect: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put a five (5) in the blank space. Use a two (2) if a valet key is needed." ^ Correct: "If a Master Key is to be cut, put an M in the blank space. Use an S if a valet key is needed." Page 2, legend at the bottom: ^ Incorrect: "C. If a Master key is desired, then the number five (5) should be placed in the M/S position. Place the number two (2) in the M/S column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." ^ Correct: "C. If a Master Key is desired, then an M should be placed in the M/S position. Place an S in the MIS column if a Sub (Valet) key is needed." Page 1360 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point. Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder) 1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected. Page 8542 License Plate Lamp: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 110-8 Page 8125 - Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. After you reconnect the battery: - Do the engine idle learn procedure. - Do the power window control unit reset procedure. - Enter the radio anti-theft code, enter the radio station presets, and set the clock. Page 1555 Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair. - If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal. - If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock. Connectors With a Secondary Lock All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities. EXAMPLE A: 1. Release the secondary lock. 2. Remove the terminal. 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS. EXAMPLE B: Page 2453 Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Service and Repair VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Replacement 1. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve assembly 2. Remove the cover (A). 3. Remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (B). 4. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C). Page 4341 Control Module: Service and Repair How to Substitute the PCM How to Substitute the PCM 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 4. Remove the glove box stops, then open the glove box. 5. Remove the 20P harness connector (A) from its bracket, and disconnect PCM connectors. 6. Disconnect all PCM connectors. 7. Remove the relays from the glove box frame. 8. Loosen the PCM mounting nut (B) on the lower right of the PCM, and remove the mounting bolt (C) and nut (D) on the left of the PCM. 9. Lift the PCM up to clear the mounting nut on the lower right of the PCM, then pull out the PCM (E). 10. Install a known-good PCM. 11. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this will allow you to start the engine. 12. After completing your test, reinstall the original PCM and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS again. Locations 122. Front Of Engine Compartment Page 2795 Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Service and Repair MAP Sensor Replacement 1. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector (A). 2. Remove the screw (B). 3. Remove the MAP sensor (C). 4. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D). Page 6653 - Remove clips carefully; don't damage their locks (A). - Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release the clip. - After installing harness clips, make sure the harness doesn't interfere with any moving parts. - Keep wire harnesses away from exhaust pipes and other hot parts, from sharp edges of brackets and holes, and from exposed screws and bolts. - Seat grommets in their grooves properly (A). Do not leave grommets distorted (B). Testing and Repairs - Do not use wires or harnesses with broken insulation. Replace them or repair them by wrapping the break with electrical tape. - After installing parts, make sure that no wires are pinched under them. - When using electrical test equipment, follow the manufacturer's instructions and those described. - If possible, insert the probe of the tester from the wire side (except waterproof connector). - Use a probe with a tapered tip. - Refer to the instructions in the Honda Terminal Kit for identification and replacement of connector terminals. Five-Step Troubleshooting Five-Step Troubleshooting Page 1864 Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams Diagram 31 Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo Number Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number Specifications Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve clearance (cold) Intake ................................................................................................................................................... ...................... 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 inch) Exhaust ............................................................... ....................................................................................................... 0.28 - 0.32 mm (0.011 - 0.013 inch) Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 Oil Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - DTC P2646, P2647 SOURCE: Honda Service News TITLE: Replace VTEC Oil Pressure Switch for DTC P2646, P2647 APPLIES TO: 03-05 Accord 4-cylinder 03-05 Element 02-05 CR-V SERVICE TIP: Got a vehicle in your shop with either of these DTCs? - DTC P2646 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit low voltage) - DTC P2647 (VTEC oil pressure switch circuit high voltage) Replacing the VTEC oil pressure switch usually fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then press on with normal troubleshooting.