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Vauxhall - Vectra - Owners Manual - 2005 - 2008
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Summary of Content
Vauxhall/Opel Vectra
Owners Workshop Manual
John S. Mead
Models covered
H a t c h b a c k , Saloon & Estate
P e t r o l : 1.8 litre ( 1 7 9 6 c c ) & 2.2 litre { 2 1 9 8 c c )
T u r b o - D i e s e l : 1.9 litre (1910cc)
Does NOT cover 1.6 litre or 2.0 litre turfso 4-cyl petrol. 2.8 litre V6 petrol, or 3.0 litre V6 diesel engine
Does NOT cover CVTronic transmission or dual fuel models
O Haynes Publishing 2010
A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or
transmitted rn any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or
retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright
holder.
ISBN 978 1 84425 8871
Printed in the USA
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Yeo«il, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Uwrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320. USA
Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR VAUXHALUOPEL VECTRA
Introduction to the Vauxhall/Opel Vectra
Page
0»4
Safety first!
Page
0*5
Roadside Repairs
If your car won't start
Page
Jump starting
Page
0*7
Wheel (hanging
Page
0»8
Identifying leaks
Page
0«9
Towing
Page
0*9
0*6
Weekly Checle done (even should you choose to get
it done by a garage), provide information on
routine maintenance and servicing, and give
a logical course of action and diagnosis when
random faults occur. However. It is hoped
that you will use the manual by tackling the
work yourself. On simpler Jobs, it may even
tje quicker than booking the car into a garage
and going there twice, to leave and collect it.
Perhaps most important, a lot of money can
be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must
charge to COVH its labour and overheads.
The manual has drawings and descriptions
to show the function of the various
components, so that their layout can be
understood. Then the tasks are described
and photographed in a clear step-by-step
sequence.
References to the 'left' or 'right' are in the
sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing
fomvanJ.
Project vehicles
The mam vehicle used in the preparation
of this manual, and which appears in many of
the photographic sequences, was a Vauxhail
Vectra Hatchback with a 1.9 litre EX)HC diesel
engine. Other vehicles Included a Vectra
Estate with a 1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine
and a Vectra Hatchback with a 2,2 litre petrol
engine.
Acknowledgements
Certain illustrations are the copyright of
Vauxhail Motors Limited, and are used with
their permission. Thanks are also due to
Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of
the workshop tools, and to alt those people
at Sparkford who helped in the production of
this manual.
We take great pride In the accuracy
of Information given in this manual, but
vehicle manufacturers make alterations
and design changes during the production
run of a particular vehicle of which ttiey do
not inform us. No liability can be accepted
by the authors or publishers for loss,
damage or injury caused by any errors in,
or omissions from, the Information given.
Safety First! 0.5
Working on your car can be dangenDus.
This page shows just some of the potential
(S and hazanJs. with the aim of creating a
IS attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank
cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, transmission fluid or power
steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if
the engine has recently been mnning.
Burning
• Beware of bums fnam the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake
discs and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under 01
a raised v ^ i c l e , always
supplement the jack
with axle stands,
or use drive-on
ramps.
Never venture
under a car
which is only
supported!^
ajack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening hightonque nuts when the vehicle (s on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should be
done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fljel vapour is
explosive.
• Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(Including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks (electrically or by use of
tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so dont
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire Is an electrical
overioad or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying ttie vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shiock
• Ignition H I and
Xenon headlight
x
5 < ?
-' ' —
especially to
people with
heart problems or "
a pacemaker. Dont •
work on or near
«these systems with
J
V ^ ^ - — ^
the engine running or
i i ^ i \ ^
the Ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Mal^e
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be pnatected by a residual current device
(ROD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they
can contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never mn the engine ,
in a confined
space such as
a garage with the
doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint ttiinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Pnalonged contact with used engine oil
can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use
a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of
oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags
in your pocket,
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette), it can also cause skin
tMirns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch ilnlngs.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid Is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some 0-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc,
are exposed to temperatures above 4000C.
The mbber changes Into a chaned or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangeimis for years. If it
gets onto the s/on, it may be necessary to
amputate ttie limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a Are. or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Taieing hit by other traffic On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by o,
a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it Is easy to become distracted by ftte job in hand.
m
When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as
it is safe to do so.
Par1< on firm level ground, if possible, and
well out of ttie way of other traffic.
Use hazard warning lights if
•
•
•
U
If you have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers of your presence.
Apply the handbrake and engage first
or reverse gear (or Park on models with
automatic transmission).
•
C
Chock ttie wheel diagonally opposite the
one being removed - a couple of large
stones will do for this.
If the ground is soft, use a fiat piece of
wood to spread the load under the jack.
Changing the wheel
I
Lift the floor covering and unscrew the
spare wheel clamp nut. Lift out the spare
wheel and position it under the siil in
the Jack fails.
r Locate the jacl< head below the lacking
point nearest the wheel to be changed.
3
Q Remove the tools from the c
^ beneath the spare wheel.
On models with steel wheels, use the
special tool to pull the wheel frim from
the wheel. Note that if the wheel bolts
are visible, the wheel trim is removed with the
wheel bolts. On models with alloy wheels, use
the screwdriver provided inserted at the wheel
bolt holes to prise off the tnm.
5
Remove the bolts and lift the wheel from
the vehicle. Place it beneath the sill in
place of the spare. Fit the spare wheel
and iignren me oons mooeraieiy witn tne
wheelbrace.
The Jacking point is indicated by an anew
in the sill. Turn the handle until the base of
the iaci< touches the ground ensuring that
the jack is vertical. Raise the vehicle until the
wheel is clear of the ground. It the tyre is fiat
make sure that the vehicle is raised sufficiently
to allow the s p ^ wheel to be fitted.
6
Finally...
•
•
Remove the wheel chocks.
Stow the jack and tools in the con-ect
locations in the car.
Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just
fitted. If it Is low, or if you don't have a
pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to
the next garage and inflate the tyre to the
correct pressure.
; j ' Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired
as soon as possible, or another puncture
will leave you stranded.
•
7
Lower the vehicle to the ground, then
finally tighten the wheel bolls in a diagonal
sequence. Refit the wheel trim. Note that
the wheel bolts should be lightened to the
i torque at the earliest opportunity.
Identifying leaks
Puddles on the garage tloor or drive,
or obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a \eak that
needs investigating. II can sometimes be
difficult to decide where the leak is coming
from, especially If an engine undershield is
fitted. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
reanftiards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the preiblem
A
Sump oil
Oil from filter
Gearbox oil
•
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Warning: Most automotive
oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wasti
(hem oft sidn, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
The smell of a fluid leaking from
the car may provide a due to
whafs leaking. Some fluids are
distinctively coloured. It may!:
help to remove the engine undershield,..
clean the car carefully and to park it aver
some clean paper overnight as an aid to
Jocating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
JHiMT
Engine oil may leak from the dram plug...
Antifreeze
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
[ainly brake fluid.
Towing
When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home - or of course
you may be helping somebody else.
Long-distance recovery should only be
done by a garage or breakdown service. For
shorter distances, DIY towing using another
car Is easy enough, but observe the following
points:
• Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes
pnavided. A towing eye is provided with the
tool kit in the luggage compartment. To fit tne
towing eye, remove the circular cover from Ihn
front or rear bumper, as required, then screw
In the towing eye anti-clockwise as far as It
will go using the handle of the wheel brace to
turn the eye. Note that the towing eye has a
left-hand thread.
. iUse a proper tow-rope - they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ON TOW sign In its rear window,
r I Always turn the ignition key to the 'on'
position when the vehicle is being towed,
so that the steering lock is released, and the
direction indicator and brake lights work.
• Before being towed, release the handbrake
nnn .soioct neutral on the transmission. On
mofioia wim automatic transmission, special
precautions apply If in doubt, do not tow, or
transmission damage may result.
• Note that greater-than-usuai pedal pressure
will be required to operate the brakes, since
the vacuum servo unit is only operational with
the engine running.
• Qreater-than-usual steering effort will also
be required.
• T h e driver of the car being towed must
keep the low-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
• Make sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
• Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the
distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly
and allow plenty of time for slowing down at
junctions.
0.10 Weekly checks
Introduction
There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.
These Weekly checks require no great skili or
special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, tor example;
• Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.
• Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are particularly
common, and a quick check on a regular basis
will often prevent the majority of these,
Underbonnet check points
• If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when your
brakes don't work properly. Checking the level
regularly will give advance warning of this kind
of problem.
!_lf the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.
-^1.8 litre
Z18XE
petrol engine
1 Engine oil level dipstick
2 Engine oil filler cap
3 Coolant
reservoir
(expansion tank)
4 Brake and dutch
fluid
5 Washer fluid reservoir
6
Battery
-41.8 litre
Z18XER
petrol engine
1 Engine oil level dipstick
2 Engine oil filler cap
3 Coolant reservoir
(expansion tank)
4 Brake and clutch fluid
b
a f e ,
reservoir
5 Washer fluid reservoir
6
Battery
Weekly checks o.ii
^ 2 . 2 litre
petrol engine
1 Engine oil level dipstick
2 Engine oil filler cap
3 Coolant resen/oir
(expansion tank)
4 Brake and clutch fluid
resen/oir
5 Washer fluid reservoir
6
Battery
-41.9 litre DOHC
diesel engine
1 Engine oil level dipstick
2 Engine oil filler cap
3 Coolant reservoir
(expansion tank)
4 Brake and clutch fluid
resen/oir
5 Washer fluid
6
Battery
resen/oir
0 . 1 2 Weekly checks
Engine oil level
Before you start
• Make sure that tne car is on level ground,
• The oil level must be checked with the engine
at normal operating temperature, however, wait
at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
checked
If the oil
in,n,ea,^ie,ya,i^r driving tl^e
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the tipper engine
resulting in an inaccurate
iding on the dipstick.
„._,_
HllUT
I
The dipstick is brightly coloured for easy
identification (see Underbonnet check
points for exact location). Withdraw the
dipstick.
oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick Into the tube as far as it will go,
then withdraw it again.
The correct oil
Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. it is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used {see Lubricants and fluids).
Car care
• If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight, and
check for stains in the moming. if there ate no
leaks, then the engine may t>e burning oil, or
the oil may only be leaking when the engine !s
mnning,
• Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipsHck marlcs (see photo 3).
If the level is too low, severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result it the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
Coolant level
A
I
Warning: Do not attempt
to
remove
the expansion
tank
pressure cap when the engine is
hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. Do not leave open
containers of coolant about, as it
The coolant level varies with the
temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should
be slightly above the KALT/COLD mark on the
side of the tank. When the engine is hot, the
level will rise.
3
Note the le, _-
2 . ;ie dipstick,
which shoula
;jct,vet;i the upper
(MAX) mark and lower (MIN) markApproximately 1.0 litre of oil wili raise the level
from the lower mark to the upper mark.
Car care
4
011 IS addnu u.muy.i ...c M.g will result.
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder
Wear
Underlnflatlon (wear on both sides)
Under-inflatlon will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the fread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heal build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camt>er [wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Centre
Wear
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate your car's
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don't
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.
Uneven
Wear
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or i^new suspensior) parts
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheei alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
Weekly checks
Wiper blades
the condition of the wiper blades;
1 Check
if they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should
be renewed annually.
jmoue a windscreen wiper blade, pull
irm fully away from the screen until it
locks. Swivel the blade through 90", press
the locking tab with your fingers and slide the
blade out of the ami's hooked end.
Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on
the vehicie battery, read the precautions
given in 'Safety firstf at the start of this
manual. If the battery is to be disconnected,
refer to •Disconnecting the battery' in the
Reference Chapter, tiefore proceeding.
• Make sure that the battery tray is in
good condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse
all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered with
a zinc-tjased primer, then painted.
• Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5A.
• If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.
left-hand side of the engine compartment,
housed In a protective plastic box. Open
the battery box, for access to the terminals,
by releasing the lid at the front and pivoting
it upwarels. Where fitted, uncllp the insulation
jacket and lift open the jacket cover.
'^Battery corrosion
,a minimum by •
1 (white, fluffy deposits) is
ivident. remove the cables from the
battery terminals, clean them with a small
wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores
sell a tool for cleaning the battery p o s t . . .
i
1 be kept to
i g a layer of
2
Check the tightness of battery clamps
to ensure good electrical connections.
You should not be able to move them.
Also check each cable for cracks and frayed
conductors.
as well as the battery cable clamps
0 . 1 6 Weekly checks
Electrical systems
• Check ali externa/ lights and the horn. Refer
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for
details if any of the circiiits are found to be
inoperative.
I
lf a smaia indicator liaht. stop-iioht or
headlioht has failed, it is likely that a bulb
has blown and will need to be renewed.
Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both
stop-lights have tailed, it Is p<
switch has failed (see Chapter
I
.. and in the left-hand side of the
tne winng aiagrams at tne ena o
locations and circuits protected.
• Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.
2
If more than one Indicator light or
headlight has failed, it Is likely that either
a fuse has blown or that there is a fault
in the circuit (see Chapter 12), The mam fuses
are located behind a cover on tfie left-hand
edge of the facia. Pull open and remove the
5
"nJJJTgg If you need (o check your
• j * ! " " } brake lights and indicators
HlMT: unaided, back up to a wall or
garage door and operate the
lights. The reflected light should show If
they are working properly.
and relays are located in
y the fuse/relay txix on the left-hand side of
the engine compartment...
To renew a Uown fuse, remove
where applicable, using the
frfastic tool provided. Rt a new fuse of the
iting, available
from car accessory shops. It is important that you find the reason
thai the fuse blew (see ElecMcal fault finding in Chapter 12).
Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
o«i7
Lubricants and fluids
Engine
Petrol
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE OW/30, OW/40, 5W/30 or
5W/40 to Vauxhall/Ope! specification GM-LL-A-025
Diesel
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE OW/30, OW/40, 5W/30 or
5WM0 to Vauxhali/Opel specification GM-LL-B-025
Manual a n d Easytronic t r a n s m i s s i o n s
VauxhalTOpe! gear oil (09 120 541)
Automatic transmission:
AF23
Vauxhall/Opel automatic transmission fluid (93 160 393)
AF40
Power s t e e r i n g
Vauxhall/Opel automatic transmission fluid (93 165 147)
reservoir
Vauxhall/Opel steering fluid (93 160 548)
Cooling s y s t e m
Vauxhall/Opel silicate-free coolant (09 194 431)
B r a k e / c l u t c h fluid reservoir
Hydraulic fluid to DOT 4
Tyre pressures (cold)
Note: Pressures apply to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other-make or type of tyre is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer oi
supplier for correct pressures if necessary.
N o r m a l load (up t o 3 ptassengers)
Front
Rear
2.0 bar (29 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.4 bar (35 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.4 bar (35 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
1 ^ litre petrol models
All tyre sizes
,
2.2 litre petrol models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55 R 16, 215/50 R 17, 225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
1.9 litre Z19DTH diesel models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55 R 16, 215/50 R 17,225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
1.9 litre Z19DT diesel models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55 R 16,215/50 R 17, 225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
Fully l a d e n
1 ^ litre petrol models
All tyre sizes
2^ litre petrol models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55R16, 215/50 R 17, 225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
1.9 litre Z19DTH diesel models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55R16, 215/50 R 17, 225/45 R17and 225/45 R 18 tyres
1.9 litre Z19DT diesel models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55 R 16, 215/50 R 17, 225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.7 bar (39 psi)
2.5 bar (36 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
3.0 bar (44 psi)
2.8 bar (41 psi)
2.5 bar (36 psi)
2.4 bar (35 psi)
3.0 bar (44 psi)
2.9 bar (42 psi)
2.5 bar (36 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
3.0 bar (44 psi)
2,8 bar (41 psi)
4.2 bar (61 psi)
4.2 bar (61 psi)
Space-saver temporary spare tyre
All models
Chapter 1 Part A:
Routine maintenance and servicing
petrol models
Contents
Section number
Section number
Air cleaner element renewal
Auxiliary driuebeit ciieck and renewal
Bodywork and underbody condition check
Brake fluid pipe and hose check
Brake pad, caliper and disc check
Clutch hydraulic fluid level check - Easytronic models
Coolant renewal
Driveshaft check
Electrical systems check
Engine oil and filter renewal
Exhaust emission check
Exhaust system check
Front suspension and steering check
Fuel filter renewal
General infonnation
26
21
13
8
7
6
24
10
16
3
26
11
9
29
1
Headlight beam alignment check
Hinge and lock lubrication
Hose and fluid leak check
Hydraulic fluid renewal
Pollen filter renewal
Power steering fluid level dieck
Rear suspension check
Regular maintenance
Remote control battery renewal
Road test
Roadwheel bolt tightness check
Service interval indicator reset
Spark plug renewal
Timing belt, tensionerand idlwpulley renewal-1.8litre engines...
Valve clearance check and adjustment - 1 . 8 litre ZISXER engines..
17
15
4
23
20
5
12
2
22
18
14
19
27
28
30
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairiy easy, suitable |
for beginnCT wi&i
€
some experience
FairiydHficUt
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
^
Difficult, suitable
for e x p ^ i e n c e d DIY
mechanic
^
«
«
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
^
«
^
1A.2 Servicing specifications - petrol models
Lubricants and fluids
Refer to WeeMy checks on page 0-1
Capacities
Engine oil including oil filter)
l.e litre engines:
Z18XE engines
ZISXER engines
2.2 litre engines
Difference between MIN and MAX dipstici^ marks
Cooling system
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines:
Manual transmission without air conditioning
Manual transmission with air conditioning
Automatic transmission with or without air conditioning
4.25 litres
4.5 litres
5.0 litres
1.0 litre
5,5 litres
6.9 litres
7.2 litres
7.4 litres
Transmission
Manual transmission:
F17+transmission
F23 transmission
M32 transmission
Automatic transmission {at fluid change)
Easytronic transmission
1.6 litres
1.55 litres
2.2 litres
3.0 to 3,5 litres (approximately)
1.6 litres
Washer fluid reservoir
Without headlight washers
With headlight washers
2.9 litres
5.6 litres
Fuel tank
Sakwn and Hatchback models
Estate models
60 litres
B1 litres
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture:
40% antifreeze
50% antifreeze
Protection down to -28°C
Protection down to -40°C
Ignition system
Spark plugs:
1.8 litre engines
2,2 litre engines
Type
Bosch FOR B LEU2
Benj 14 FGR-8DQU7
Brakes
Friction material minimum thickness (including backing plate):
Front brake pads
Rear brake pads
9.0 mm
8.0 mm
Torque w r e n c h settings
Oil filter housing cap to filter housing (paper element filter)
Roadwheel bolts
Spark plugs
Sump drain plug;
I.SIitre engines
2.2 litre engines
Nm
25
110
25
14
25
Maintenance scliedule - petrol models 1A.3
"me maintenance Intervals tn this manual are
provided with the assumption that you, not the
dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are
the minimum maintenance inten/als based on
the standard service schedule recommended
by the manufacturerfor vehicles driven dally. If
you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perfomi some of
these procedures more often. We encourage
frequent maintenance, because it enhances
the efficiency, performance and resale value
of your vehicle.
e removed with it. Take care not
to touch Vie exhaust or any other hot parts of
the engine when working under the vehicle. To
avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect
yourself from possible skin irritants and other
harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it Is
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out
tills work.
2 Access to the underside of the vehicle will
be greatly improved if It can be raised on
a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and
supported on axie stands (see Jacking and
vehicie support). Whichever method is chosen,
3 Removing ttie oil filler
3.9a Separate the paper-eleinent type
filter from ttie c a p . . .
make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if
it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the
lowest point. The drain plug is located at the
rear of the sump.
3 Remove the oil filler cap fnam the camshaft
cover {twist it through a quarter-turn anticlockwise and withdraw it| blems in the future.
3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length.
Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen
CM- deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if
the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to
the hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting In cooling
system leaks. If wire-type hose clips are used,
it may be a good idea to update them with
screw-type clips.
4 Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces, etc) for leaks. Where any
problems of this, nature are found on system
components, renew the component or gasket
witfi reference to Chapter 3 (see Haynes
Hint).
5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic
transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or
deterioration.
6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks
and other damage. The connection between
the filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes, a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber
7 Carefully check aii rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage.
Pay particular attention to the vent pipes
and hoses, which often loop up around
the fiiler neck and can become blocked or
crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the
vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way.
Renew damaged sections as necessary.
Slmilariy, whilst the vehicle is raised, take the
opportunity to inspect all underbody brake
fluid pipes and hoses.
8 From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
5
Power steering
fluid level c h e c k
Referto Chapter 10, Section 21,
6
C l u t c h hydrauflc
f l u i d level c h e c k Easytronic models
Note: The fluid level check on manual transmission models is in 'Weekly checks'.
1 The clutch hydraulic fluid level markings are
on the side of the fluid reservoir located on the
fnant of the transmission. The use of a mirror
will be helpful.
2 Check that the level of the fluid is at or near
Every 20 000 miles - petrol models I A . 9
the MAX marWng on the side of the i
(see Illustration).
3 If topping-up Is required, unscrew the filler
cap and pour in fresh fluid of the specified
type (see Lubricants and fluids), until the level
is at the MAX marking. Retighten the cap on
completion.
J
'
B r a k e p a d , caliper
and disc check
|^
I
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front and rear of the vehicle and support
it securely on axle stands (see Jack/ng and
vehicle support). Remove the roadwheels.
2 For a quick check, the pad thickness can
be can-ied out via the Inspection hole on the
caliper (see Haynes Hint). Using a steel
njie, measure the thickness of the pad lining
including the backing plate. This must not be
Jess than that indicated in the Specifications.
3 The view thnxigh the caliper inspection hole
gives a rough indication of the state of the
brake pads. For a comprehensive check, the
brake pads should be removed and cleaned
The operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake disc
Itself can be fully examined on both sides.
Chapter 9 contains a detailed description of
how the brake disc should be checked for
wear and/or damage.
4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the
specified tiiickness or less, all four pads must
be renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9 for
details,
5 On completion, refit the roadwheels and
lower the vehicle lo the ground.
S B r a k e fluid pipe
%
and hose ciieck
1 The brake hydraulic system includes a
number of metal pipes, which run from the
master cylinder lo the hydraulic modulator of
the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and then to
the ftont and rear brake assemblies. Flexible
hoses are fitted between the pipes and the
front and rear brake assemblies, to allow for
steering and suspension movement.
2 When checking the system, first look for
signs of leakage at the pipe or hose unions,
then examine the flexible hoses for signs
of cracking, chafing or deterioration of the
aibber. Bend the hoses sharply between the
fingers (but do not actually bend them double,
or the casing may be damaged) and check
that this does not reveal previously-hid den
cracks, cuts or splits. Check that the pipes
and hoses are securely fastened in their clips,
3 Carefully working along the length of the
metal pipes, look for dents, kinks, damage
of any sort, or corrosion. Light con^sion can
be polished off, but if the depth of pitting is
agnificant, the pipe must be renewed.
For a quick check, the thickness
friction material remaining on the inneri
brake pad can he measured throughthe aperture in the caliper body.
9
Front s u s p e n s i o n
and steering c h e c k
1
1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front
of the vehicle and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the
steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or
deterioration.
3 Any wear of these components will cause
loss of lubricant, and may ailow water to
enter the components, resulting in rapid
deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear.
4 Grasp each roadwheel at the 12 o'clock
and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it
(see Illustration). Very slight free play may
be felt, but if the movement is appreciable,
further investigation is necessary to determine
the source. Continue rocking the wheel while
an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
5 Now grasp each wheel at the 9 o'clock
and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rcick it as
before. Any movement felt now may again
=ed bv wear in the hub beanngs or the
steenng track rod end balljoints. if the track
roa end oaiijoint is worn, the visual movement
will be obvious.
6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected, as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible mbber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
7 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around
the suspension struts, or from the rubber
gaiters around the piston rods. Should any
fluid be noticed, the suspension strut is
defective internally, and should be renewed.
Note: Suspension struts should always be
renewed in pairs on the same axle.
8 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
have an assistant turn the steering wheel
back-and-forth about an eighth of a turn
each way. There should be very little, if any,
lost movement between the steering wheel
and roadwheels. If this is not the case,
closely observe the joints and mountings
previously described. In addition, check the
steering column universal joints for wear, and
also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear
itself.
9 The efficiency of each suspension strut may
be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each
front corner. Generally speaking, the body will
return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on a
rebound, the suspension strut is probably
suspect. Also examine the suspension strut
upper mountings for any signs of wear.
1Q Driveshaft c h e c k
9.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings by
grasping the wheel and trying to rock it
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then lack up
the fnsnt of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
2 Turn the steering onto full lock then slowly
rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of
the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber
gaiters while squeezing the gaiters to open
1 A . 1 0 Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
10.2 Check the condition of the driveshaft
retaining clips (2)
out the folds (see illustration). Check for
signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the
rubber which may allow the grease to escape
and lead to water and grit entry into the joint.
Also check the security and condition of the
retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the
inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration
is found, the oaiters should be renewed as
described in C h ^ t e r 8.
3 At the same time, check the general
condition of the CV joints themselves by
first holding the driveshaft and attempting
to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by
holding the Inner joint and attempting to rotate
the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement
indicates wear in the joints, wear in the
driveshaft splines or loose driveshaft retaining
nut.
Exhaust s y s t e m Check
1 Witii the engine cold (at least an hour
afte' the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust systsn from the engine to
the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is
most easily checked with the vehicle raised
on a hoist, or suitably-sup ported on axle
stands, so that the exhaust components are
readily visible and accessible {see Jacking and
vehicle support).
2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections
for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
mountings are in good condition, and that all
relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage al
any of the joints or In other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak.
3 Rattles and other noises can often be traced
to the exhaust system, especially the brackets
and mountings (see lllustralion). Try to move
the pipes and silencers. If the components
are able to come Into contact with the body
or suspension parts, secure the system with
new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints
Pf possible) and twist the pipes
to provide additional clearance.
11.3 Exhaust mountings
12 Rear s u s p e n s i o n c h e c k
I
1 Chock the front wiieels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicie support).
2 Inspect the rear suspension compon«its ftir
any signs of obvious wear or damage. Pay
particular attention to the rubber mounting
bushes, and renew if necessary (see Chapter 10).
3 Grasp each naadwheel at the 12 o'clock and
6 o'clock positions (see Illustration 9.4), and
try to rock it. Any excess movement indicates
wear in the wheel bearings. Wear may also be
accompanied by a rumbling sound when the
wheel is spun, .or a noticeable roughness if the
wheel is turned slowly. The wiheel bearing can
be renewed as described in Chapter 10.
4 Check for any signs of fluid leakage anaund
the shock absorber bodies. Should any fluid
be noticed, the shock absorber is defective
internally, and should be renewed. Note:
Shock absorbers shouid always be renewed in
pairs on tiie same axle.
5 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
the efficiency of each shock absorber may
be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each
rear corner. Generally speaking, the body will
return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on
a rebound, the shock absorber is probably
suspect.
13 B o d y w o r k a n d
underbody condition check
Wots; This work should be carried out by
a Vauxhali/Opei dealer in order to validate
the vehicle warranty. The work includes a
thorough Inspection of the vehicle paintwork
and underbody for damage and conosion.
Bodywork
corrosion
damage/
ciieck
1 Once the car has been washed, and all tar
spots and other surface blemishes have bieen
cleaned off, carefully check all paintwork,
looking closely for chips or scratches. Pay
particular attention to vulnerable areas such
as the front panels (bonnet and spoiler), and
around the wheel arches. Any damage to
the paintwork must be rectified as soon as
possible, to comply with the terms of the
manufacturer's anti-corrosion warranties;
check with a Vauxhall/Opel dealer for details.
2 If a chip or light scratch is found which
is recent and still free from rust, it can be
touched-up using the appropriate touch-up
stick which can be obtained fK)m Vauxhail/
Opel dealers. Any more serious damage,
or rusted stone chips, can be repaired as
described in Chapter 11. but if damage or
corrosion is so severe that a panel must be
renewed, seek professional advice as soon as
3 Always check that the door and ven^lation
opening drain holes and pipes are completely
clear, so that water can drain out.
Comsion
protection
ciieck
4 The wax-based u ierbody protective
coating should be ispected annually.
preferably Just prior 3 Winter, when the
underbody should I
washed down as
thoroughly as possible wwithout disturbing the
protective coating. Any damage to the coating
should be repaired using a suitable wax-based
sealer. If ^ y of the body panels are disturbed
for repair or renewal, do not forget to re-apply
the coating. Wax should be injected into door
cavities, sills and box sections, to maintain
the level of protection provided by the vehicle
manufacturer - seek the advice of a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer
14 R o a d w h e e l b o l t
tightness check
^
1 Where applicable, remove the wheel tnms
from the wheels,
2 Using a torque wrench on each wheel bolt
In turn, ensure that the bolts are tightened to
the specified torque.
Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
3 Wtiere applicable, refit the wheel trims
on completion, malximately 10 seconds the display
will show the service symbol and the maximum
mileage before the next required service,
followed by 'InSP'. When ' — ' appears in the
display, release the reset button and switch off
the ignition. When the button is released, the
odometer reading will appear again.
Every 40 000 miles
or 2 years
2 0 Pollen filter renewal
IA.II
ttie front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on fijli-lock.
Cany out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
dnveshaft joint (see Chapter 8).
20.2 . . . then open tf
1 A . 1 2 Every 40 000 miles - petrol models
roadwheel and the wheel arch liner inner
cover for access to the right-hand side of the
engine.
6 For additional working clearance, remove
the air cleaner housing as described in
Chapter 4A.
7 If the drivebelt is to be re-used, mark it to
indicate its normal mnning direction.
1.8 litre m o d e l s
Release the dips at each e n d . . .
3 Release the clips from each end. then lift
out the fiiter (see illustrations).
4 Fit the new filter using a reversal of the
removal procedure; make sure that the filter is
fitted the correct way up as indicated on tiie
edge of the filter.
Auxiliary drivebelt
check and renewal
Note: The manufacturers racommend that the
tensioner pulley is checked and if necessary
renewed at the same time as the drivebelt.
Checking
1 Due to their function and materia make-up,
drivebelts are prone to failure after a long
period of time and should therefore be
inspected regularly.
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
right-hand frcintroadwheel and the wheel arch
liner inner cover for access to the right-hand
side of the engine.
1.8 litre Z18XE engines
r Locking pin/bolt
2 Turn the tensioner as indicated tc
release the tension
20J3b . . . and im out the pollen filter
3 With the engine stopped, inspect the
full length of the drivebelt for cracks and
separation of the belt plies. It will be necessay
to turn the engine (using a spanner or socket
and bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt) so that
the belt can be inspected thoroughly. Twist
the belt between the pulleys so that both
sides can be viewed. Also check for fraying,
and glazing which gives the beh a shiny
appearance. Check the pulleys for nicks,
cracks, distortion and corrosion. If the belt
shows signs of wear or damage, it should be
renewed as a precaution against breakage in
4 On 2.2 litre engines also check the position
of the drivebelt tensioner assembly ann. The
mark on the underside of the moveable arm
should be in between the two marks on the
tensioner body, and the arm should be free to
8 Note the routing of the drivebelt, then, using
a Torx key or spanner (as applicable) on the
pulley centre bolt, or the raised projection
on the tensioner asm. turn the tensioner anticlockwise against the spring tension. Hold
the tensioner in this position by inserting a
suitable locking pin/bolt through the special
hole provided (see illustrations).
9 Locate the auxiliary drivebelt onto the
pulleys in the conect routing. If the drivebelt is
being re-used, make sure it is fitted the correct
way araund.
10 Turn back the tensioner and remove the
locking pin/bolt then release it, making sure
that the drivebelt ribs locate correctly on each
of the pulley grooves,
11 Refit the air cleaner housing (if removed),
then refit the wheel arch liner inner cover
and roadwheel. and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
2.2 litre m o d e l s
5 If not already done, apply the handbrake,
then jack up the front of the vehicle and
support it on axle stands (see Jacking ana
vehicle support). Remove the right-hand fnsnt
12 Note the routing of the drivebelt, then
insert a socket bar or similar tool into the
square hole on the tensioner arm. Turn the
tensioner anti-clockwise against the spring
tension and slip the auxiliary drivebelt off of
the pulleys (see illustration). Release the
tensioner arm.
13 Turn the tensioner anti-clockwise and
locate the auxiliary drivebelt onto the pulleys
in the conect routing. If the drivebelt is being
21.8b Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner on
1.8 litre ZISXER engines
Raised projection
2 Locking pin/bolt
on tens/oner arm
hole
21.12 Auxiliary drivebeH tensioner Ol
2.2 litre engines
Turn the tensioner as
release Che tens/on
Renewal
Every 40 000 miles - petrol models
re-used, make sure it is fitted ttie correct
way araund. With the belt in position, slowly
release the tensioner arm making sure that the
drivebelt ribs locate correctly on each of the
pulley grooves.
14 Refit the air cleaner housing (if removed),
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
^22 R e m o t e c o n t r o l
battery renewal
1 ustng a screwdriver, prise the battery cover
from the ignition key fob (see illustrations).
2 Note tiow the circular battery is fitted, then
carefully remove it from the contacts.
3 Fit the new battery (type GR 20 32) and refit
the cover, making sure that It clips fully onto
the base.
4 After changing the battery, lock and unlock
the driver's door with the key in the lock to
synchronise the remote control unit
23 Hydraulic fluid renewal
I
Note: tt is not possil^le for the home mechanic
to bleed the clutch hydraulic system on
Easytronic models. Refer to Chapter 7C for
additional Information.
Warning: Hydraulic fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme caution
when handling and pouring it. Do not use
fluid that has been standing open for some
time, as it absorbs moisture from the air.
Excess moisture can cause a dangerous
loss of braking effectiveness.
1 The procedure Is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapters 9 (brake) and 6 (clutch).
2 Worthing as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly
all the old fluid has been emptied from the
master cylinder resen/oir Top-up to the MAX
level with new fluid, and continue pumping
until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir,
« fluid can be seen emerging from the
A
22.13
Prise ofl the battery
Qldhydraulic fluid is invariably
; «
I much darker in colour than
• HlllITi the new, making it easy to
•
^ distinguish the two.
3 Work through all tiie remaining bleed screws
in the sequence until new fluid can be seen
at ^1 of them. Be careful to keep the master
cylinder reservoir topped-up to above the MIN
level at all times, or air may enter the system
and greatly increase the length of the task,
4 Bleed the fluid from the clutch hydraulic
system as described in Chapter 6.
5 When the operation is complete, check that
ail bleed screws are securely tightened, and
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all
traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level.
6 Check the operation of the brakes and
clutch before taking the car on the road.
IA.I3
then refit the wheel arch liner inner cover
and roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
A
Warning: Wait until the engine
is cold before starting
this
procedure. Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin, or with
the painted surfaces of the vehicie. Rinse
off spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in
an open container, or in a puddle in the
driveway or on the garage floor Children
and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.
Cooling
system
draining
1 To drain the cooling system, first cover the
expansion tank cap with a wad of rag, and
slowly turn the cap anti-clockwise to relieve
the pressure in the cooling system (a hissing
sound will normally be heard). Wait until any
pressure remaining in the system is released,
then continue to turn the cap until it can be
removed.
2 The coolant drain plug is located at the
bottom of the radiator left-hand or right-hand
end tank, according to engine. Position a
container beneath the radiator then unscrew
24 Coolant renewal
a.
the drain plug and allow the coolant to drain.
On 2.2 litre engines, also unscrew the drain
plug from under the coolant pump bousing
(see illustration).
Mote: Vauxhall/Opel do not specify renewal
3 When the flow of coolant stops, refit and
intervals for the antifreeze mixture, as the tighten the drain plug(s).
mixture used to fill the system when the vehicle 4 As no cylinder biock drain plug is fitted, it
is new is designed to last the lifetime of the
is not possible to drain all of the coolant. Due
vehicle. However, it Is strongly recommended consideration must be made for this whwi
that the coolant is renewed at the intervals
refilling the system, in order to maintain the
I in the •Maintenance schedule', as a conect concentration of antifreeze.
precaution against possible engine corrosion 5 If the coolant has been drained for a
problems. This is particularly advisable if the reason other than renewal, then provided it is
coolant has been renewed using an antifreeze clean and less than two years old, it can be
other than that specified by Vauxhall/Opel. re-used.
With many antifreeze types, the corrosion
Cooling
system
flushing
inhibitors become pmgressively less effective
with age. It is up to the individual owner
whether or not to follow this advice.
6 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or
the circular batteiy
24.2 Removing the coolant drain plug
located under the coolant pump housing 2ja Irtre engines
1A»14 Every 2 years - petrol models
not to introduce dirt or debris into the system
if this appnaach is used.
12 With the bottom hose disconnected
from the radiator, insert a garden hose into
the thermostat opening. Direct a clean flow
of water through the engine, and continue
flushing until clean water emerges from the
radiator bottom hose.
13 On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat with reference to Chapter 3, and
reconnect the hoses.
Cooling
24.17 U f t i q i the Wire d i p and disconnect
the left-haiKl heater hose from the heater
matrix pipe stub
flien In time, the cooling system may gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,
and other sediment. The cooling system
efficiency can be restored by flushing the
system clean.
7 The radiatorshouldbeflushed independently
of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.
Radiator
flushing
8 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and
any other relevant hoses from the radiator,
with reference to Chapter 3.
9 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top
Inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the
radiator, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges Irom ttie radiator bottom outlet.
10 If after a reasonable period, the water still
does not njn clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
Important that the manufacturer's instructions
are followed carefully. If the contamination is
particularly bad, remove the radiator, insert
the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and
reverse-flush the radiator
Engine flushing
11 To flush the engine, the thermostat must
be removed, because it will be shut, and
would otherwise prevent the flow of water
around the engine. The thermostat can be
removed as described in Chapter 3. Take care
system
filling
14 Before attempting to fill the cooling
system, make sure that all hoses and clips are
in good condition, smd that the clips are tight.
Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used
all year round, to prevent corrosion of the
engine components.
15 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
16 Fill the system by slowly pouring the
coolant Into ttie expan^on tank until it is up to
the filler neck.
17 Using a small screwdriver, lift up the wire
clip securing the left-hand healer hose to the
heater matrix pipe stub, and disconnect the
hose irom the stub (see illustration).
18 As soon as coolant begins to run from the
heater matrix, push the securing wire clip back
into position on the healer hose end fitting,
then push the hose back onto the matrix pipe
stub. Ensure that the wire clip securely locks
the hose in position.
19 Top-up the expansion tank until the
coolant level is up to the KALT/COLD mark on
the side of the tank.
20 Refit and tighten the expansion tank filler
cap.
21 Start the engine and run It at 2000 to
2500 rpm for 30 seconds, allow it to idle for
5 seconds, then njn it at 2000 to 2500 rpm
again for a further 30 seconds.
22 Continue mnning the engine at idling speed
and allow it to warm-up. When the cooling
fan cuts-in. run the engine again at 2000 to
2500 rpm for 30 seconds, allow it to idle for
5 seconds, then run it at 2000 to 2500 rpm
again for a further 30 seconds.
23 Stop the engine, and allow it to cool, then
recheck the coolant level with reference to
Weekly checks. Top-up the level If necessary
and refit the expansion tank filler cap.
Antifreeze
mixture
24 Always use an ethylene-glycol based
antifreeze which Is suitable for use in
mixed-metal cooling systems. Note: Vauxhail/
Opel recommend the use of silicate-free
•red' coolant (09 194 431). The quantity of
antifreeze and levels of pnatection are given in
the Specifications.
25 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security.
26 After filiing with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating tiie
type and concfflitratlon of antifreeze used, and
the date Installed. Any subsequent topping-up
should be made with the same type and
concentration of anfifreeze.
Caution: Do not use engine antifreeze in
ttie windscreen/tailgate
washer system,
as it will cause damage to the vehicle
paintwork. A screenwash additive should
be added to the washer system tn the
quantities stated on the bottle.
25 Exhaust e m i s s i o n c h e c k
•iw'
1 The exhaust emission check is carried
ly after 3 years, then every 2 years,
however, on vehicles which are subject to
intensive use (eg, taxis/hire cars/ambulances)
it must be carried out annually. The check
involves checking the engine management
system operation by plugging an electronic
tester into the system diagnostic socket
to check the electronic control untt (ECU)
memory for faults (see Chapter 4A^.
2 In reality, if the vehicle is mnning correctly
and the engine management warning light in
the instmment panel is functioning normally,
then this check need not be canied out.
Every 40 OOP miles or 4 years
26 Air cleaner e l e m e n t renewal
26.2 Slacken the
1 The air cleaner is located in the front righthand corner ol the engine compartment.
2 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect
the air intake duct from ttie airflow meter {see
Illustration).
3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
side of the airflow meter (see illustration).
4 Undo the screws m\6 lift off the air cleaner
cover, then lift out the tiller element {see
Illustrations).
Every 40 000 miles - petrol models
26.4a Undo the retaining screws
.4b . . . lift off a w air daaner c o v e r . . .
5 Wipe out the casing and the cover.
6 Fit the new filter, noting that the rubber
locating flange should be uppermost, and
secure the cover with the screws.
7 Reconnect the airflow meter wiring
connector and the air intake duct.
27 Spark p l u g renewal
f^-
1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs
¡3 vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine; suitable types
are specified at the beginning of this Chapter,
or in the vehicle's Owner's Handbook. If the
correct type is used and the engine is in good
condition, the spark plugs should not need
attention between scheduled renewal intervals.
Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and
should not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available, as damage can easily
be caused to the firing ends.
2 Where applicable, remove the engine top
cover after removing the oil filler cap. Refit the
cap.
3 Remove the ignition module from the spark
plugs with reference to Chapter 5B.
4 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the
spark plug recesses using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping
into the cylinders.
5 Unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder
head using a spark plug spanner, suitable box
spanner or a deep socket and extension bar
(see illustration). Keep the socket aligned
with the spark plug - if it Is forcibly moved to
one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken
off,
6 Examination of the spark plugs will give a
good indication of the condition of the engine.
As each plug is removed, examine it as follows.
If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean
and while, with no deposits, this Is indicative
of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly
a cold plug transfers heat away quickly],
7 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
wrth hard black-looking deposits, ttien this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then tt is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
8 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture
is conect and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
g Some engines are fitted with multi-electrode
plugs as standard (see Illustration). On these
plugs, the electrode gaps are all preset and
no attempt should be made to bend the
electrodes.
10 if single electrode plugs are to be
installed, the spark plug electnsde gap is of
considerable importance, it the gap is too
large or too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired and it will
not perform correctly under all engine speed
IA.IS
26.4c . . . than lift out the Alter elenwnt
and load conditions. For the best results, the
spark plug gap should be set in accordance
with the Specifications at the beginning of this
11 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler
blade or spark plug gap gauge and then
carefully bend the outer plug electrode until
the correct gap is achieved. The centre
electrode should never be bent, as this may
crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if
nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap
is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a
firm sliding fit (see Illustrations).
12 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting
tools are available from most motor accessory
shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers
(see Illustration).
13 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves on the top of
27.9 The gap of the multi-electrode p
(where fitted) should not be adjusted
27.1 l a If single electrode plugs are fitted,
check the electrode gap using a feeler
27.11b . . . o r a w i r e g a u g e . .
1 A - 1 6 Every 40 000 miles - petrol models
27.12 . . . and H necessary adjust the gap
by bending the eFectrode
the plug are tight, and that the plug exterior
surfaces and threads are clean.
14 Screw in the spark plugs by hand where
possible, then tighten them to the specified
torque. Take extra care to enter the plug
threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of
light alloy construction (see Haynes Hint).
15 On completion, refit the ignition module
as described in Chapter 5B then, where
applicable, refit the engine lop cover
¿28 T i m i n g belt, t o i s t o n e r
y.. a n d Idler p u l l e y renewal e
1.8 litre engines .
Refer lo the procedures contained in Chapter 2A.
S'SS Fuel filter renewal
1 The fuel filter is located under the rear of ttie
/( IS very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into ineir noies wiinoui crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility,
fit a short length of rubber hose over the
end of the spark plug. The flexible hose
acts as a universal joint to help align the
plug with the plug hole. Should the plug
begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip
oh the spark plug, preventing
thread
damage to the aluminium
cylinder
head.
vehicle where it is clipped onto the side of the
fuel tank (see illustration).
2 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in G h ^ e r 4 A .
3 Chock the frant wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands
(see JacMng and vehicle supfxirt).
4 Position a suitable container below the fuel
filter, to catch spilt fuel.
5 Disconnect the quick-release fittings and
remove the fuel hoses from the fuel filter,
noting their locations to ensure correct
refitting. A Vauxhall/Opel special tool is
Every 100 OOP miles or 10 years
lîî'
Valve clearance c h e c k
and adjustment I.SIitreZISXERenglnes
Refer to the procedures contained in
29.1 The fuel filter Is Clipped to the side Of
the fuel tank
available to disconnect the hose connectors,
but provided care is taken, the connections
can be released using a pair of long-nosed
pliers, or a similar tool, to depress the
retaining tangs. Be prepared for fuel spillage,
and take adequate precautions. Vauxhail/
Opel recommend that the connecting clips
of the quick-release connectors are renewed
whenever removed.
6 Lift the retaining tab and push the filter
forwards, out of the mounting bracket. Note
the orientation of the hiel flow direction anow.
7 Fitting the new filter is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
a) Ensure that the filter is fitted with the flow
direction arrow on the filter body pointing
in the direction of fuel flow.
b) Ensure that the hoses are reconnected to
their correct locations, as noted before
removal.
c) On completion, run the engine and ciieck
for leaks. If /eaftage is evident, stop
the engine immediately and rectify the
problem without delay.
Chapter 1 Part B:
Routine maintenance and servicing diesel models
Contents
Section n u m b e r
S e c t i o n number
28
22
13
a
7
26
10
16
3
27
11
9
21
5
Air cleaner element renewal
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal
Bodywork and underbody condition c h e c k . . .
Brake fluid pipe and hose check
Brake pad, caliper and disc check
Coolant renewal
Driveshaft check
Electrical systems check
Engine oil and filter renewal
Exhaust emission check
Exhaust system check
Front suspension and steering check
Fuel filter renewal
Fuel filter water draining
General information . .
Headlight beam alignment check
Hinge and lock lubrication
Hose and fluid leak check
Hydraulic fluid renewal
Pollen filter renewal
Power steenng flutd level check
Rear suspension check
Remote control battery renewal
Boad test
Roadwheel bolt tightness check
Service interval indicator reset
Timing belt, tensioner and idler pulley renewal . .
Valve clearance check and adjustment - Z19DT e igines
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
1^
1
F^tWficuft,
^
suitable for c o m p e t e n t ^
DIY mechanic
^
Difficult suitable
^
for experienced DIY ; K
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
17
15
4
25
20
6
12
2
24
18
14
19
29
23
iB*2
Servicing specifications - diesel models
Lubricants a n d fluids
Refer to Weekiy checks on page 0*1
Capacities
Engine oil (including oil filter)
Difference between MIN and MAX dipstick marks
4.3 litres
1.0 litre
Cooling system
"n^nsmisslon
Manual transmission
Automatic transmission (at fluid change)
Washer fluid reservoir
Witiiout headlight washers
With headlight washers
7.5 litres
2.2 litres
3.0 litres (approximately)
2.9 litres
5-6 litres
Fuel tank
Saloon and Hatchback models
Estate models
60 litres
61 litres
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture:
40% antifreeze
50% antifreeze
Protection down to -28°C
Protection down to -40°C
Brakes
Friction material minimum thickness {including backing plate):
Front brake pads
Rear brake pads
9.0 mm
8,0 mm
Torque wrench settings
Engine oil filter
Fuel filter housing cover retaining ring
Roadwheel bolts
Sump drain plug
Nm
15
30
110
20
Mil
11
22
81
15
Maintenance schedule - diesel models I B . 3
The maintenance intervals in ttiis manual are
pnsvided witii the assumption that you, not tiie
dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are
the minimum maintenance interuais based on
the standard sen/ice schedule recommended
by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily If
you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of
these procedures more often. We encourage
tregue
:e, because it enhar
the efficiency, performance and resale value
of your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used
to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow
speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,
more frequent maintenance intervals are
recommended.
When the vehicle is new, it should be
Every 250 miles or weekly
l_
Referto
Weekly
checks
fevery 10 000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first
C R e n e w t h e e n g i n e oil a n d fiiter ( S e c t i o n 3)
IKote: Vauxhall/Opel recommend that the engine oil and filter are
Changed every 20 000 miles or 12 months if the vehicle Is being
operated under the standard semioo schedule. However, oil and fitter
(Ganges are good for the engine and we recommend that the oil and
filter are renemed more frequently especially if ttie vehicle is used on
a lot of shod journeys.
Every 20 000 miles or 12 months whichever comes first
•
C h e c k all u n d e r b o n n e t a n d u n d e r b o d y
c o m p o n e n t s , p i p e s a n d h o s e s for feaks ( S e c t i o n 4)
•
Drain t h e w a t e r f r o m t h e fuel filter ( S e c t i o n 5)
•
C h e c k t h e p o w e r s t e e n n g f l u i d level ( S e c t i o n 6)
C i C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e b r a k e p a d s ( r e n e w if
n e c e s s a r y } , t h e c a l i p e r s a n d d i s c s { S e c t i o n 7)
L J C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of all b r a k e f l u i d p i p e s a n d
h o s e s ( S e c t i o n 8)
,L¡ Checi< t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e f r o n t s u s p e n s i o n a n d
steering c o m p o n e n t s , particularly the rubber
g a i t e r s a n d s e a i s ( S e c t i o n 9)
L ! C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e d r i v e s h a f t j o i n t g a i t e r s ,
a n d t h e d r i v e s h a f t j o i n t s {Section 10)
[ I C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e e x h a u s t s y s t e m
c o m p o n e n t s ( S e c t i o n 11)
L i C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e rear s u s p e n s i ó n
c o m p o n e n t s ( S e c t i o n 12)
L ' C h e c k the b o d y w o r k and underbody for d a m a g e
a n d c o r r o s i o n , a n d c h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e
u n d e r b o d y c o r r o s i o n p r o t e c t i o n ( S e c t i o n 13)
L ' C h e c k t h e t i g h t n e s s of t h e r o a d w h e e í b o l t s
( S e c t i o n 14)
_ i L u b r i c a t e all door, b o n n e t , b o o t lid a n d t a i l g a t e
h i n g e s a n d l o c k s ( S e c t i o n 15)
[_: C h e c k t h e o p e r a t i o n o f t h e h o r n , all lights, a n d t h e
_ w i p e r s a n d w a s h e r s ( S e c t i o n 16)
^ : C h e c k t h e h e a d l i g h t b e a m a l i g n m e n t ( S e c t i o n 17) • _ Carry o u t a r o a d t e s t ( S e c t i o n 18)
• ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ r v i c e interval i n d i c a t o r ( S e c t i o n 19)
serviced by a dealer service department
(or other workshop recognised by the
vehicle manufacturer as providing the same
standard of sen/ice) in order to preserve the
warranty. The vehicle manufacturer may reject
warranty claims if you are unable to prove that
servicing has been carried out as and when
specified, using only ong/nal equipment parts
or parts certified lo be of equivalent quality
Every 40 000 miles or 2 years whichever comes first
. I R e n e w t h e p o l l e n filter ( S e c t i o n 20)
:. I R e n e w t h e f u e i fifter ( S e c t i o n 21)
n C h e c k t h e auxiliary d r i v e b e l t a n d t e n s i o n e r
( S e c t i o n 22)
L j C h e c k , a n d if n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t , t h e v a l v e
c l e a r a n c e s - 2 1 9 D T e n g i n e s ( S e c t i o n 23)
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage^
I . Renew the battery for the remote control handset
( S e c t i o n 24)
i " . R e n e w t h e b r a k e a n d d u t c h f l u i d ( S e c t i o n 25)
L_. R e n e w t h e c o o l a n t ( S e c t i o n 2 6 ) '
I. E x h a u s t e m i s s i o n t e s t ( S e c t i o n 27)
' Note; Vehicles using Vauxhall/Opel silicate^^reecopiant. do jjot
need the coolant renewed on a regular basis: •-
Every 40 000 miles or 4 years whichever comes first
: J
•> 1
I.... R e n e w t h e air c l e a n e r filter e i e m e n t ( S e c t i o n 28)
S
I
R e n e w t h e t i m i n g belt, t e n s i o n e r a n d Idler puileys 3
( S e c t i o n 29)-*
«
* Note; The normal interval for timing belt renewal is 100 000 miles or"
10 years. However, it is strongly recommended that the inter/al used
is 40 000 miles on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use. le.
mainly short journeys or a lot ol stop-start driving. The actual belt.:
renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owi
tieann mind that severe engine damage will result if the beltbi
I B M Component location - diesel models
Underbonnet view of an SOHC engine mode!
Engine oil level dipstick
Engine oil filler cap
Air cleaner assembly
Front suspension stmt
upper mounting
Screen washer fluid
6
7
Airflow meter
Brake (and clutch) fluid
reservoir
8
Fuel filter
9
Coolant expansion tank
10 Battery
11 Fuse/relay box
12 ABS hydraulic modulator
Underbonnet view of a DOHC engine model
1
2
3
4
Engine oil level dipstick
Engine oil fiiter cap
Air cleaner assembly
Front suspension strut
upper mounting
5
Screen washer fluid
reservoir
6
Airflow meter
7
Brake (and dutch) fluid
reservoir
8
Fuel filter
9
Coolant expansion tank
10 Battery
11 Fuse/relay box
12 ABS hydraulic modulator
Component location - diesel models I B . 5
Front underbody view
1
2
3
Exhaust front pipe
Steering track rods
Front suspension lower
arms
4
Fnont brah:e calipers
5
Engine mounting front
torque Unit
6
Engine mounting rear
torque link
7
Right-hand driveshaft
8
IVIanual transmission
9
Engine oil drain plug
10 Air conditioning
compressor
11 Electric cooling fan
12 Front subframe
©
e
Rear underbody view
1
2
Handbrake cable
Exhaust tailpipe and
silencer
3
Exhaust heat shield
4
Rear axle body
5
Rear hub carrier
6
Lower control arm
7
Upper control arm
8
Auxiliary control arm
9
Shock absortier
10 Rear anti-roll bar
11 Rear suspension trailing
12 Fuel tank
1 B . 6 Maintenance procedures - diesel models
1
General i n f o r m a t i o
1 "mis Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peal< performance.
2 The Chapter contains a master maintenance
schedule, followed by Sections deaimg
specifically with each task in the schedule.
Visual checks, adjustments, component
renewal and other heipfui items are included.
Refer to the accompanying illustrations of
the engine compartment and the underside
of the vehicle for the locations of the various
components.
3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections wili provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable sen/ice life. ITils Is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
Items but not others at the specified service
inten/als wili not produce the same results.
4 As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can ~
and should - be grouped together, because
of the particular procedure being performed,
or because of the proximity of two otherwiseunrelated components to one another. For
example, "rf the vehicle is raised for any reason,
the exhaust can be inspected at the same time
as the suspension and steering components.
5 The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried out,
then make a list and gather all the parts and
tools required. If a problem Is encountered,
seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer
service department.
2
Regular m a i n t e n a n c e
conventional maintenance as described In this
Chapter will not greatly Improve the
performance of the engine, and may prove a
waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul wori< Is carried out first.
4 The following series of operations are
those most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary
1 if, from the time the vehicle is nevj, the
routine maintenance scheduie is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be kept
in relatively good running condition, and the
need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be times when
the engine Is running poorly due to the lack
of regular maintenance. TTiis is even more
likely if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance Intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to the appropriate part of Chapter 2)
will provide valuable information reganiing the
overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to
be carried out. If, for example, a compression
test indicates serious internal engine wear.
operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (refer
to Weelily ched(s).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer
to Weekly checks).
c} Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Section 22).
d) Check the condition of the air niter, and
renew if necessary (Section 28).
e) Rer^w the fuel filter (Sec^on 21).
f) Check the condition of ail hoses, and
check for fluid /eaAs (Section 4).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary
operations
All Items listed under Primary operations, plus
the following:
a) Check the charging system (refer to
Chapter 5A).
b) Check the pre/post-heating system (refer
to Chapter 5fi).
c) Check the fuel, exhaust and emission
control systems (refer to the appropriate
Parts of Chapter 4).
Every 10 OOP miles or 6 months
3
Engine oil a n d fiiter renewal
: JTA'JJIJ^ Frequent
oil and
filter
'1 changes
are the
most
HlHITj important
preventative
' maintenance
procedures
which can be undertaken by the DIY
.owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes
. diluted and contaminated, which leads
•- to premature engine wear
1 Before starting this procedure, gather
together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warni,
as it will drain more easily, and more built-up
sludge will be removed with it. Take care not
to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of
the engine when working under the vehicle. Jo
avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect
yourself from possible skin initants and other
harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is
advisable to
when carrying out
this work.
2 Access to the underside of the vehicie will
be greatly impnaved if it can be raised on
a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and
supported on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support). Whichever method is chosen,
make sure that the vehicie remains level, or if
It is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the
lowest point. Remove the engine undertray for
3 Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft
cover or oil filler housing, as applicable (twist
if through a quarter-turn anti-clockwise and
withdraw it} (see Illustration).
4 Using a spanner, or preferably a suitable
socket and bar, slacken the drain plug about
half a turn (see illustration). Position the
draining container under the drain plug, then
remove the plug completely (see Haynes
Hint).
5 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting
Every 10 000 miles - diesel models 1B.7
As the drain plug releases from the
threads, move it away quickly so that j
the stream of oil running out of the
sump goes into the drain pan and not i
up your sleeve.
•
ary !o reposition tine
container as the oil tiow slows to a triclde.
6 Position another container under ttie oil
filter Ttie filter is located at the rear of the
engine and is accessible from under the car.
7 Unscrew the filter housing cap and wittidraw
it, together with the element, then separate
the element, and remove the two 0-ring seals
from the cap (see illustrations).
8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge fnam the oil filter housing and cap.
9 Locate the new 0-ring seals in their grooves
on the housing cap, then locate the new
element in the cap and insert them both in the
filter housing. Screw on the cap and tighten to
the specified torque.
10 After all the oil has drained, wipe the
drain plug and the sealing washer/O-ring
with a clean rag. Examine the condition of
the sealing washer/O-ring, and renew it if it
shows signs of damage which may prevent an
oil-tight seal. Clean the area ansund the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug complete with
the washer/O-ring. Tighten the plug to the
specified tongue, using a torque wrench.
3.7a UnsCTi
Every 20 OOP miles or 12 months
4
Hose a n d fluid leak c h e c k
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 4.
5
nd withdraw
It toge..._
lerrt . . .
11 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
12 Fill the engine through the filler hole in
the camshaft cover or oil filler housing, as
applicable, using the correct grade and type
of oil (refer to Weekly checks for details of
topping-up). Pour in half the specified quantity
of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil
to drain into the sump. Continue to add oil, a
small quantity at a time, until the level is up
to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding
apprciximately a further 1.0 litre will bring the
level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.
13 Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature. While the
engine is warming-up, check for leaks around
the oil filter and the sump drain plug.
14 Stop the engine, and wait at least five
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated ^ d the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
15 Dispose of the used engine oil and filter
safely, with reference to General repair
alternator and starter motor, the coolant
hoses and engine mountings, and any
wiring.
1 The fuel filter is located ai the rear of the
engine compartment, in the centre of the
bulkhead.
2 Disconnect the heater element wjnng
3.7b . . . then separate the element from
the c a p . . .
3.7c . . . and remove the two 0-ring seals
procedures in the Reference Chapter of this
manual. Do not discard the old filter with
domestic household waste. The facility for
waste oil disposal provided by many local
council refuse tips and/or recycling centres
generally has a filter receptacle alongside.
connector from the fuel filter cover, and the
water level sensor wiring connector from the
base of the fiiter housing (see illustrations).
3 Using a screwdnver inserted from the
nght-hand side, depress the retaining clip
and lift the filter from the crash box (see
illustration).
Fuel filter w a t e r draining
Caution: Before starting any work on the
fuel filter, wipe clean the fiiter assemWy
and the area around it; it is essential
that no dirt or other foreign matter Is
allowed into the system. Obtain a suitable
container into which the fiiter can be
drained and place rags or similar material
under the filter assemoly to catch any
spillages. Do not allow diesel fuel to
contaminate
components
such as the
5.2b . . . and the water level sensor Wiring
connector from the base of ^ e filter housing
1B.8 Every 20 000 miles - diesel models
13 Hinge a n d lock l u b r i c a t i o n
Refer to Chapter 1 A, Section 15.
16 Electrical s y s t e m s c h e c k
5.3 Depress the retaining clip and lift the
filter from the crash box
4 In addition to taking the precautions noted
above to catch any fuel spillages, connect a
tube to the drain screw on the base of the fuel
filter (see lllustraHon). Place the other end of
the tube in a clean jar or can.
5 Loosen the drain screw approximately one
complete turn and allow the filter to drain
until clean fuel, free of dirt or water, emerges
from the tube [approximately 100 cc is usually
sufficient).
6 Remove the drain tube, then tighten the
drain screw securely.
7 Insert the filter in the crash box making sure
that the retaining clip engages.
8 Reconnect the wiring.
9 On completon, dispose of the drained fuel
safely. Check all disturbed components to
ensure that there are no leaks (of air or fuel)
when the engine is restarted.
Power s t e e r i n g
fluid level c h e c k
6
Refer to Chapter 10. Section 31.
7
B r a k e p a d , caliper
and disc check
Refer to Chapter 1 A, Sectio
'6
Brake f l u i d pipe
a n d hose c h e c k
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 8
5.4 Fuel filter drain &
9
Front s u s p e n s i o n
and steering check
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 9.
Referto Chapter 1A, Section 16.
17 Headlight b e a m
alignment check
Refer to Chapter 1 A, Section 17.
10 Driveshaft c h e c k
18 R o a d t e s t
Refer to Chapter 1A. Section 10.
11 Exhaust s y s t e m c h e c k
Refer to Chapter 1 A, Section 11,
12 Rear s u s p e n s i o n c h e c k
Refer to Chapter 1A. Section 12.
13 B o d y w o r k a n d
u n d e r b o d y contfitron c h e c k
3r lo Chapter 1 A, Section 13.
14 R o a d w h e e l b o l t
tightness check
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 1.
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 18.
19 Service interval
i n d i c a t o r reset
1 With the ignition switched off, the display
on the Instrument panel must show the tnp
odometer
2 With the ignition still switched oft, depress
and hold the trip odometer reset button located
on the instnjment panel. After appnaximately
3 seconds the display wiii show the service
symbol.
3 With the reset button depressed, also
depress the brake pedai and switch on the
ignition. 1nSP - - -' will appear in the display.
4 After approximately 10 seconds the
display wili show 'InSP' followed by the
maximum mileage before the next required
service indicating that the service interval
indicator has been reset. Release the reset
button and brake pedal, then switch off the
ignition.
Every 40 OOP miles or 2 years
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 20.
Caution: Bafore starting any work on the
fuel fitter, wipe clean the filter assembly
and the area around It; it is essential that
no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed
Into the system. Obtain a suitable container
into which the filter can be drained and
place rags or similar matenal under the
Every 40 000 miles - diesel models 1B.9
21.3a Depress the quick-release
connector retaining tangs . . .
1
id
21 .ga Unscrew mid remove the cover
retaining ring...
ffVter assembly to catch any spillages.
Do not allow diesel fuel to contaminate
components such as the starter motor, the
coolant hoses and engine mountings, and
any winng.
N o t e : Vauxhall/Opel
special
tool
EN-46784-010, or a suitable alternative will be
required to unscrew the filter housing cover
retaining ring.
1 The fuel filter is located at the rear of the
engine comparlment, in the centre of the bulkhead.
2 Disconnect the heater element wiring
connector fram the fuel filter cover, and the
water level sensor wiring connector from the
base of the filter housing (see itkistrations 5.2a
and 5.2b).
3 Detach the two fuel hose quick-release
connectors and remove the hoses from the
fuel filter housing and cover. A Vauxhail/
21.9c . . . and recover the O-ring seal
Opel special tool (KM-796-A) i
disconnect the hose connectors, but provided
care is taken, the connections can be released
using two screwdrivers, a pair of long-nosed
pliers, or similar, to depress the retaining tangs
(see illustrations). Suitably covw or plug the
open hose connections to prevent dirt entry.
4 Using a screwdriver inserted from the
right-hand side, depress the retaining clip and
lift the filter housing from the crash box.
5 Loosen the drain screw on the base of ttie
filter housing one complete turn and drain the
fuel into a suitable container. Tighten the drain
screw securely once the filter has drained.
6 Lay the filter on its side and clamp the two
filter housing mounting lugs in a soft-iawed
vice. Take great care not to damage the lugs
and only tighten the vice sufficiently to hold
the housing while the cover retaining nng is
slackened.
7 Slacken the filter housing cover retaining
ring using the Vauxhall/Opel special tool or a
suitable alternative (see illustration).
8 Reposition the filter housing vertically in the
vice and tighten the vice lightly.
9 Fully unscrew tiie cover retaining ring, then
lift the cover together with the filter element
from the housing. Recover the O-ring seal
(see lllusb'ations).
10 Turn the filter element approximately 50°
anti-clockwise to release it from the cover
(see illustration).
11 Empty the fuel from the filter housing, then
thoroughly clean the housing and cover with a
lint-free cloth.
12 Align the anow on the new filter element
with the corresponding arrow on the cover
then push tiie filter onto the cover until it locks
position (s
1B-10 Every 40 OOP miles - diesel models
21.13a Locate a new O-rlng seal on the
filter housing . . .
22.7a TUrn the drivebelt tensioner
clockwise using a spanner on the pulley
centre bolt (arrowed)...
housing, then fit the element and co
the
housing (see illustrations).
14 Lubricate the threads of the retaining ring
with a little diesel fuel then screw the ring
onto the housing. Reposition the housing
horizontally m the vice as before, and tighten
the retaining ring to the specified torque using
the special tool or alternative.
15 Insert the filter assembly into the crash
box, making sure that the retaining clip
engages. Reconnect the fuel hoses and the
wiring connectors.
16 Bleed the fuel system as described
in Chapter 4B and check all disturbed
components to ensure that there are no leaks
(of air or fuel) when the engine is restarted.
17 On completion, safely dispose of the
dfueL
22.9a Auxiliary dHvebelt configuration
models without air conditioning . . .
separation of the be\t plies. It will be necessary
to turn the engine (using a spanner or socket
and bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt) so that
the belt can be inspected thoroughly. Twist
the belt between the puiieys so that both
sides can tie viewed. Also check for fraying,
and glazing which gives the belt a shiny
appearance. Check the pulleys for nicks,
cracks, distortion and corrosion. If the belt
shows signs of wear or damage, it should be
renewed as a precaution against breakage in
service.
Renewal
21.13b . . . then fit the element and c
to the housing
22.7b . . . then lock the tensioner by
inserting a locking pin or dnil bit (arrowed)
through the special hole
22 Auxiliary drivebelt
c h e c k a n d renewal
^
^
Checking
1 Due to their function and material make-up,
drivebelts are prone to failure after a long
period of time and should therefore be
inspected regularly,
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel and the engine
undertray.
3 With the engine stopped, inspect the
full length of the drivebelt for cracks and
4 If not already done, apply the handbrake,
then jack up the front ot the vehicle and
support it on axie stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front
roadwheel and the engine undertray
5 For additional working clearance, remove
the air cleaner housing as described in Chapter 4B.
6 It the drivebelt is to be re-used, mark it to
indicate Its normal running direction,
7 Using a spanner on the pulley centre t>olt,
turn the tensioner clockwise against the
spring tension. Hold the tensioner in this
position by inserting a suitable locking pin or
drill bit through the special hole provided (see
Illustrations).
a Slip the drivebelt from the puileys.
9 Locate the new drivebelt on the pulleys in
the correct routing (see illustrations). If the
drivebelt is being re-used, make sure it is
fitted the conect way around.
10 Turn back the tensioner and remove the
locking pin/driii bit, then release It, making
sure that the drivebelt ribs locate correctly on
each ot the pulley gnaoves.
11 Refit the air cleaner housing (if removed),
then refit the engine undertray and roadwheel,
and lower the vehicle to the ground.
3 Vatve clearance
check and adjustment Z19DT engines
Maintenance procedures - diesel models I B . H
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
vehicle. However, it is strongly recommended
that the coolant is renewed at the intervals
specined in the 'Ivtalntenance schedule; as a
precaution against possible engine conoslon
problems. This Is particularly advisable If the
coolant has been renewed using an antifreeze
other than that specified by Vauxhall/Opel.
With many antifreeze types, the corrosion
inhibitors become progres^vely less effective
with age. It is up to the individual owner
whether or not to follow this advice.
2 4 R e m o t e control
battery renewal
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 22
.25 Hydraulic fluid renewal
A
Warning: Hydraulic fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme caution
when handling and pouring it Do not use
ffuid that has been standing open for some
time, as it atisarbs moisture from the air
Excess moisture can cause a dangerous
loss of braking affaotiveness.
Note: The bi^ke and clutch hydraulic systems
1 The procedure is similar to that for the
bleodina of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapters 9 (bralce) and 6 (clutch).
2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly
all the old fluid has been emptied from the
master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the IVlAX
level with new fluid, and continue pumping
until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir,
and new fluid can be seen emerging from the
bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the
reservoir level up tg the MAX level line.
i'm'i!l^-| Old hydraulic fluid is invanably
much darker in colour than
V, making it easy to
distinguish the two.
Hint
\
\
I
'
3 Work through ail the remaining bleed screws
in the sequence until new fluid can be seen
at all of them. Be careful to keep the master
cylinder resen/oir topped-up to above the MIN
level at all times, or air may enter the system
and greatly increase the leng*i of the task,
4 Bleed the fluid from the clutch hydraulic
system as described in Chapter 6.
5 When the operation is complete, check that
all bleed screws are securely tightened, and
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all
traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level.
6 Check the operation of the brakes and
clutch before taking the car on the road.
A
Warning: Wait until the engine
is cold before
starting
this
procedure. Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin, or with
the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse
off spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in
an open container, or in a puddle In the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and pets are attracted by Its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.
Cooling
system
draining
1 To drain the cooling system, first cover the
expansion tank cap with a wad of rag, and
slowly turn the cap anti-clockwise to relieve the
pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound
will nomially be heard). Wait until any pressure
remaining in the system is released, then
continue to turn the cap until It can be removed.
2 Remove the wigine undertray, then position
a suitable container beneath the right-hand
side of the radiator.
3 The coolant drain plug is located at the
bottom of the radiator left-hand end tank.
Unscrew the drain plug and allow the coolant
4 When the flow of coolant stops, refit and
tighten the drain plugs.
5 As no cylinder block drain plug is fitted, it
IS not possible to drain all of the coolant. Due
consideration must be made for this when
refilling the system, in order to maintain the
conect concentration of antifreeze.
S If the coolant has been drained for a
reason other than renewal, then prowded it is
clean and less than two years old. It can be
re-used.
26 Coolant renewal
Note: Vauxhail/Opel do not specify
Intervals lor tlie anlilrBeze mixiure, as the
mixture used to fill the system when the vehicle
is new is designed to last the lifetime of the
26.18a Lift up the wire clip and disconnect
the left-hand heater hose from the heater
matrix pipe s t u b . . .
Cooling
system
flushing
7 If coolant renews has been neglected, or
it the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then In time, the cooling system may gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,
and other sediment. The cooling system
efficiency can be restored by flushing the
system clean.
8 Theradiatorshould be flushed independentiy
of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.
Radiator f l u s h i n g
9 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and
any other relevant hoses from the radiator,
witii reference to Chapter 3,
10 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top
inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the
radiator, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
11 If after a reasonable period, the wafer still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
impcMlant that the manufacturer's Instmctions
are followed carefully. If the contamination is
particularly bad, remove the radiator, insert
the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and
reveree-flush the radiator.
Engine
flushing
12 To flush the engine, the thermostat must
be removed, because it will be shut, and
would otherwise prevent the flow of water
around the engine. The thermostat can be
removed as described in Chapter 3, Take care
not to intnxluce dirt or debris into the system
If this approach is used.
13 With the bottom hose disconnected
Irom the radiator, insert a garden hose into
the thermostat opening. Direct a clean flow
of water through the engine, and continue
flushing until clean water emerges from the
radiator bottom hose.
14 On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat with reference to Chapter 3, and
reconnect the hoses.
Cooling
system
filling
15 Before attempting to fill the cooling
system, make sure that all hoses and clips are
In good condition, and that the clips are tight.
Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used
all year round, to prevent con-osion of the
engine components.
16 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
17 Fill the system by slowly pouring the
coolant into the expansion tank until It is up to
the filler neck.
18 Using a small screwdriver, lift up the wire
clip securing the left-hand heater hose to the
heater matrix pipe stub, and disconnect the
hose from the stub. Additionally, open the
bleed screw in the coolant pipe above the
exhaust manifold (see Illustrations).
19 As soon as coolant begins to OJn from the
1B»12 Every 2 years - diesel models
26.1 « j . . . then open the bleed screw
(arrowed) In the coolant pipe above the
exhaust manifold
heater matrix, push the securing wire clip back
into position on the heater hose end fitting,
then push the hose back onto tìie matrix pipe
stub. Ensure that the wire clip securely locks
the hose in position. Close the coolant pipe
bleed screw as soon as coolant emerges.
20 Top-up the expansion tank until the
coolant level is up to the KALT/COLD mark on
the side of the tank.
21 Refit the expansion tank filler cap.
22 Start the engine and run it at 2000 to
2500 rpm for 30 seconds, allow it to idle for
5 seconds, then run it at 2000 to 2500 rpm
again for a further 30 seconds.
23 Continue running the engine at idling
speed and allow it to warm-up. When the
cooling fan cuts-in, run the engine again at
2000 to 2500 rpm for 30 seconds, allow it
to idle for 5 seconds, then run it at 2000 to
2500 rpm again for a further 30 seconds.
24 Stop the engine, and allow it to cool, then
recheck the coolant level with reference to
Weekly checks. Top-up the level if necessary
and refit the expansion tank filler cap. Refit the
engine undertray.
9
mixture
25 Always use an ethylene-glycol based
antifreeze which is suitable for use in
mixed-metal cooling systems. Note: Vauxhail/
Opel recommend the use of silicate-free
•red' coolant (09 194 431). The quantity of
antifreeze and levels of protection are given in
the Specifications.
Every 40 OOP miles or 4 years
• 28 A i r cleaner e i e m e n t renewal
Refer to Chapter lA, Section 26.
26 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security.
27 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used, and
the date Installed, Any subsequent topping-up
should be made whh the same type and
concenVation of antifreeze.
Caution: Da not use engine antifreeze in
the windscreen/tailgate
washer system,
as It wiii cause damage to the vehicle
paintwork. A screenwash additive should
be added to the washer system In the
quantities stated on the bottle.
29 T i m i n g belt, tensioner
a n d idler pulley renewal
27 Exhaust e m i s s i o n c h e c k
Chapter 2 Part A:
1.8 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Section number
Camshaft and followers - removal, inspection and refitting
12
Camshaft cover - removal and refitting
4
Camshaft oil seals - renewal
10
Compression test-general information
2
Cranlistiaft oil seais-renewal
17
CraniiShaft pulley - removal and refitting
5
Cyl nder head - removal and refitting
13
Engine/transmission mountings - Inspection and renewal
18
Flywheel -removal, inspection and refitting
16
General information
1
Section numljer
Oil pump - removal, overtiaul and refitting
Sump - removal and refitting
Timing belt - removal and refitting
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting
Timing belt sprocttets, tensioner and idler pulleys - removal and
refitting
Top dead centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
Valve clearances (Z18XER engines) - checking and adjustment
W T oil control valves P18XER engines) - removal and refitting
15
14
7
6
8
3
11
9
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with liffle
experience
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner wi»i
s o m e experience
^
^
^
FailyiHficult,
statable for conpetent
DIY mechanic
^
^
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
^
DIY or preifessional
2^
Specifications
General
Engine type
Four-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled. Double overhead camshafts,
belt-driven
Manufacturer's engine code*
Z1SXE and Z18XER
Bore
80.5 mm
Stroke
88.2 mm
Capacity
1796 cc
Compression ratio
10.5:1
Firing onjer
1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Direction of crankshaft
rcrtation
Clockwise (viewed from timing belt end of engine)
* For details of engine code location, see 'Vehicle Identification' in the Reference Chapter.
Compression pressures
standard
14 to 16 bar
Maximum difference between any two cylinders
1 bar
Valve clearances (Z18XER engines)
Engine cold:
Inlet
Exhaust
Lubrication system
Minimum oil pressure at 80''C
Oil pump type
Ro to r-to-housing clearance (endfloat):
Z18XE engines
Z18XER engines
0.21 to 0.29 mm
0.27 to 0.35 mm
1.3 bar at idle speed
Rotor-type, driven directly fre>m oankshaft
0.03 to 0.10 mm
0.02 to 0.058 mm
Torque wrench settings
Z18XE engines
Auxiliary drivebelt tenslorwr bolt
Camsiiaft bearing cap bolts
Camsliaft cover bolts
Camsiiaft sprocled
In Chapter 2E,
Chapter 2E describes the removal of the
engine/transmission unit from the vehicle, and
the full overhaul procedures which can then
be earned out.
Engine
description
The engine is a double overhead camshaft,
four-cylinder, in-line unit, mounted transversely
at the front of the car. with the transmission
attadied to its left-hand endThe crankshaft is supported within the
cylinder block on f ve shell-type main beanngs.
Thrustwashers are fitted to number 3 mam
bearing, to control crankshaft endfloat.
The connecting rods are attached to the
crankshaft by horizontally-split shell-type
big-end bearings, and to the pistons by
Interference-fit gudgeon pins. The aluminium
alloy pistons are of the slipper type, and are
fitted with three piston rings, comprising two
compression rings and a scraper-type oil
control ring.
The camshafts run directly in the cylinder
head, and are driven by the crankshaft via a
toothed composite rubber timing belt (which
also drives the coolant pump on Z18XE
engines). One camshaft operates the inlet
valves, and the other operates the exhaust
valves.
On ZtaXE engines, the camshafts operate
each valve via a hydraulic self-adjusting
camshaft follower On ZISXER engines, the
camshafts operate each valve via a solid
camshaft follower. The camshaft followers are
available in various thicknesses to facilitate
valve clearance adjustment.
On Zl 8XER engines, a variable valve timing
(WT) system is employed. The W T system
allows the inlet and exhaust camshaft timing
to be varied under the control of the engine
management system, to tioost both low-speed
torque and top-end power, as well as reducing
exhaust emissions. The W T camshaft adjuster
IS integral with each camshaft timing belt
sprocket, and is supplied with two pressurised
oil feeds through passages in the camshaft
Itself. Two electra-magnetic oil control valves,
one for each camshaft and operated by the
engine management system, are fitted to the
cylinder head, and are used to supply the
pressurised oil to each camshaft adjuster
through the two oil feeds. Each adjuster
contains two chambers - depending on which
of the two oil feeds is enabled by the control
valve, the oil pressure will turn the camshaft
clockwise (advance) or anti-clockwise (retard)
to adjust the valve timing as required, if
pressure is removed from both feeds, this
induces a timing 'hold' condition. Thus the
valve timing is infinitely variable within a given
range.
Lubrication is by pressure-feed from a
rotor-type oil pump, which is mounted on the
right-hand end of the crankshaft. The pump
draws oil through a strainer located in the
sump, and then forces it through an externally
mounted full-flow oil filter. The oil flows into
galleries in the cylinder block/crankcase, from
where it is distributed to the crankshaft {main
bearings) and camshafts. The big-end bearings
are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft, while the camshaft bearings also
receive a pressurised supply. The camshaft
lobes and valves are lubricated by splash, as
are all other engine components,
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
IS employed; crankcase fumes are drawn frcim
camshaft cover, and passed via a hose to the
inlet manifold.
Operations
with engine
in car
The following operations can tie can-ied out
without having to remove the engine from the
a) Removal and refitting of the camshaft
bj Adjustment of the valve clearances
¡118XER engines).
c) Removal and refitting of the WT oil
control vaives (ZISXER engines).
d) Removal and refitting of the cylinder
head
e) Removal and refitting of the timing belt,
tensionerand sprockets.
f) Renevi/el of the camshaft oil seals.
g) Removal and refitting of the camshafts
and followers.
h) Removal and refitting of the sump.
i) Removal and refitting of the connecting
rods and pistons.'
j) Removal and refitting of the oil pump.
k) Renewal ol the crankshaft oil seals.
I) Renewal of the engine mountings.
m) Removal and refitting of the flywheel.
' Although the operation marked with an
asterisk can be carried out with the engine
in the car (after removal of the sump), it is
preferable for the engine to be removed, in the
interests of cleanliness end improved access.
For this reason, the procedure is described in
Chapter 2E.
2
Compression test general information
1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed
to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can pnavide diagnostic clues as to the
engine's condition. If the test is performed
regulariy, it can give warning of trouble tiefore
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 Due to the electronic throttle control system
used on these engines, a compression
test can only be canied out with the engine
management electronic control unit connected
to Vauxhall/Opel diagnostic test equipment, or
a compatible alternative unit. Without the test
equipment, the throttle valve cannot be opened
(as there is no accelerator cable) and the test
will be inconclusive. Note that even with the
accelerator pedal fully depressed, the engine
management ECU will only control the throttle
valve position when the engine is actually
running. The test equipment independently
actuates the throttle valve (irrespective of ECU
commands) and opens the throttle valve fully.
3 As the equipment needed for the
compression test is unlikely to be available
to the horne mechanic, it is recommended
that the test is pertomied by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer, or suitably-equipped garage.
3
Top d e a d centre
(TDC) for No 1 piston locating
1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that a piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC
at the end of the compression stroke, and
again at the end of the exhaust stroke. For
the purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers
to the position of No 1 piston at the end of its
compression stroke. No 1 piston and cylinder
are at the timing belt end of the engine.
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
[refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter), If necessary, remove all
the sparii plugs as described in Chapter 1A to
enable the engine to be easily turned over.
3 Remove the timing belt upper cover as
oescribed in Section 6.
4 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel, then remove
the wheel arch liner inner cover for access to
the crankshaft pulley
5 Using a socket and extension bar on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft
until the timing marks on the camshaft
sprockets are facing towards each other,
and an imaginary straight line can be drawn
through the camshaft sprocket ttolts and the
timing marks. With the camshaft sprocket
marks correctly positioned, align the notch
3.5a Align the camshaft timing m a r k s . . .
aSb . . . and the notch on the c r a n k ^ a f t
pulley rim with the mark on the timing belt
lower cover - Z18XE engines
3.5c Align the camshaft timing marks
on the crankshaft pulley rim with the mark on
the timing belt lower cover (see illustrations).
The engine is now positioned with No 1 piston
at TDC on its compression stroke.
6 If the crankshaft pulley and lower timing
belt cover have been removed, the timing
mark on the crankshaft spnDcket can be used
instead of the mark on the pulley. The mark
on the crankshaft spnaoket must align with the
corresponding mark on the timing belt rear
cover, or oil pump housing (see illustration)
4
Camshaft cover removal and refitting
Z18XE
Bngin&s
Removal
1 Remove the oil filler cap, then undo the
retaining screws, and remove the plastic cover
irom the top of the engine. Refit the oil filler
cap.
2 Remove the ignition module fnam the spark
plugs with reference to Chapter 5B.
3 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the breather hoses from the left-hand rear of
the cover (see illustration).
4 Disconnect the wiring plug from the coolant
temperature sensor and camshaft sensor, then
release the wiring harness from tiie camshaft
cover.
5 Disconnect the coolant pipe from the
thennostat housing. Unbolt the retaining bracket
from the camshaft cover and inlet manifold,
release the retaining dips and move the pipe to
CBie side. Be prepared for coolant spillage.
6 Uncllp the oxygen sensor wiring from the
camshaft cover.
7 Evenly and progressively slacken and
remove the camshaft cover retaining bolts.
8 Lift the camshaft cover away from the
cylinder head and recover the rubber seal.
Examine the seal for signs of wear or damaoe
and renew if necessary.
Refitting
S Ensure the cover and cylinder head
surfaces are clean and dry tnen tit tne mooer
seal securely to the cover groove (see
Hustration).
3.5d . . . and the notch on the crankshaft
pulley nm with the mark on the liming belt
lower cover (arrowed) - Z18XER engines
10 Apply a smear of suitable sealant to
areas of the cylinder head surface around the
right-hand end inlet and exhaust camshaft
bearing caps.
11 Carefully manoeuvre the camshaft cover
into position, taking great care to ensure the
seal remains correctly seated. Refit the cover
retaining bolts and tighten the retaining bolts
to the specified tongue, working in a spiral
pattern from the centre outwanjs.
12 Reconnect the coolant pipe to the
thermostat housing, making sure it is secured
by the retaining bracket on the camshaft cover
and inlet manifold.
13 Refit the wiring plugs to the coolant
temperature sensor and camshaft sensor Clip
the oxygen sensor wiring back into position in
the camshaft cover.
14 Reconnect the breather hoses, securing
them in position with the retaining clips.
4.3 Disconnect the breather hoses from
the camshaft cover - Z18XE engines
3.6 Crankshaft Sprocket trmmg mar* {/y
aligned with mark (B) on timing belt rear
cover (crankshaft pulley removed)
15 Refit 'he ignition module with reference to
Chapter 5B.
16 Refit the engine cover, then top-up the
cooling system as described in Chapter 1A.
ZISXER
engines
Removal
17 Remove the ignition module from the
spark plugs as described In Chapter 5B.
18 Uft the wiring harness up and out of tiie
support on the right-hand end of the camshaft
cover (see illustration).
19 Uncllp the wiring harness trough from the
rear of the camshaft cover (see Illustration).
20 Pull out the retaining wire clip and disconnect the tireather hose from the camshaft
cover (see Illustration).
21 Unscrew the eleven bolts securing the
camshaft cover to the cylinder head.
22 Lift tne camshaft cover awav from the
4.9 Carefully fit Hie camshaft ci
Z18XE engines
4.18 Lift the wiring harness out of the
support on the camshaft cover ZiaXER engines
4.20 Pull out the retaining wire clip and
disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft c o v e r - ZISXER engines
cylinder head and recover the rubber seal.
Examine the seal for signs of wear or damage
and renew if necessary.
Refitting
23 Ensure that the camshaft cover grove and
njbber seal are clean and dry with all traces
of oil removed. If necessary, degrease the
seal and cover groove with brake cleaner or a
similar product.
24 Clean the mating surface of the cylinder
head and the area around the camshaft
bearing caps at the timing belt end, ensuring
that all traces of oil are removed.
25 Locate the rubber seal into the grooves
of the camshaft cover ensuring that it is fully
seated, wrth no chance of it falling out as the
cover is fitted (see illustration},
26 Carefully manoeuvre the camshaft cover
4.19 UnclJp the wiring tiamess trough from
the rear of the camshaft cover ZISXER engines
4.25 Locate the rubber seal into the
grooves of the camshaft cover ZISXER engines
into position, taking great care to ensure the
seal remains con-ectly seated. Screw in all the
cover retaining bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque, working in a spiral pattern
from the centre outwards.
27 Reconnect the engine breather hose,
then clip the wiring harness trough back into
position. Engage the wiring harness with the
support on cover.
28 Refit the ignition module to the spark
plugs as described in Chapter 58.
5
Crankshaft pulley -
^
removal and refitting
^
Note; A new pulley retaining bolt v/il! be
required on refitting.
Removal
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand roadwheel, then
remove the wheel arch liner inner cover lor
access to the crankshaft pulley
2 Remove the auxiliary dnvebelt as described
tn Chapter 1A. Prior to removal, mark the
direction of rotation on the tielt to ensure the
belt is refitted the same way around,
3 Slacken the crankshaft pulley retaining
bolt. To prevent crankshaft rotation, have an
assistant select top gear and apply the brakes
firmly. Alternatively, on ZISXER engines,
engage a strip of metal with the flywheel ring
gear teeth through the access slot located just
aoove the front engine mounting/torque link
(see illustration)4 IJnscrew the retaining bolt and washer and
remove the crankshatt pulley from the end of
the crankshaft5 Refit the crankshaft pulley, aligning the
pulley cut-out with the raised notch on the
timing belt sprocket, then fit the washer and
new retaining bolt (see Illustration).
6 Lock the crankshaft by the method used on
removal, and tighten the pulley retaining bolt
to the specified Stage 1 torque setting, then
angle-tighten the bolt through the specified
Stage 2 anule. tisiiiu a socket and extension
bar, and finally through the specified Stage 3
angle,
nooa that an anglemeasuring gauge
jsed during the final
stages of the tighter
, to ensure accuracy If
a gauge is not ava
ailable, use white paint to
make alignm
arks between the bolt head
and pulley pnot lo tightening; the marks can
then be used to check that the bolt has t>een
rotated through the correct angle.
7 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A using the mark made prior to
removal to ensure the belt is fitted the correct
way around,
8 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover and
the roadwheel. Lower the car to the ground
and tighten the wheel bolts to the specified
torque.
6
T i m i n g belt c o v e r s -
^
removal and refitting
^
Z18XE
engines
Upper c o v e r
5.3 Engage a strip of metal wHh the
flywheel ring gear teeth tiirough the
access slot (amjwed) - ZISXER engines
1 Remove the oil filler cap, then undo the
retaining screws, and remove the plastic cover
from the top of the engine. Refit the oil tiller
cap.
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and intake
ducts as described in Chapter 4A.
3 Undo the three retaining screws then unclip
the upper cover from the rear cover and
•
U i i i ' t h Mil
I
removefhe
!E engines
remove it from ttie engine compartment (see
illustration).
4 Refitting Is ttie reverse of removal, tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.
Lower c o v e r
5 Remove the upper cover as described in
paragr^hs 1 to 3.
6 Remove the crankshaft pulley as descrit>ed
in Section 5.
7 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
auxiliary drivebelt tensioner {see illustration),
8 Undo the retaining bolt then unclip the lower
cover from the rear cover and manoeuvre it
out of position (see Illustration).
9 Refitting is the reverse of removal, clip the
cover into position and tighten the cover txilts
and auxiliary drivebelt tensioner bolt to the
specified tongue.
Rear c o v e r
10 Remove the timing belt as descnt>ed in
Section 7.
11 Remove the camshaft sprockets,
crankshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner,
front idler pulley and the rear idlei- pulley as
described in Section 8.
12 Slacken and remove the three retaining
bolts, and withdraw the engine mounting
bracket bolted to the cylinder block (see
illustration).
13 Undo the four retaining bolts and remove
the rear cover upwards and away from the
engine (see illustration).
14 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Refit
and tighten the cover bolls to the specllled
torque.
ZiaXER
6.7 Remove the auxiliary driveb^t
tensioner - Zt8XE engines
19 Undo the retaining boll and remove the
auxiliary drivet>elt tensioner (see Illustration).
20 Undo the four retaining bolts then
manoeuvre the lower cover off the engine.
21 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tightening the cover retaining bolts and auxiliary
drivetjelt tensioner bolt to the specified torc|ue.
Centre c o v e r
22 Remove the upper and lower covers as
described previously.
23 Remove the right-hand engine mounting
as described in Section 18, then undo the
three retaining bolts and remove the mounting
bracket bolted to the cylinder block.
24 Release the two clips securing the centre
cover to the rear cover and manoeuvre the
centre cover ofi the engine.
25 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tightening the engine mounting bracket retaining
bolts to the specified toniiue.
6.12 Engine mountmg bracket-to-cylinder
block retaining bolts - Z18XE engines
6.8 Timing belt lower cover retaining bolt Z18XE engines
Rear c o v e r
26 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
27 Remove the camshaft sprockets,
crankshaft sprcwket, Kming belt tensioner and
idler pulley as described In Section 8.
28 Unclip the wrnng harness from the
6.13 Lift the rear cover away from the
e n g i n e - Z i a X E engines
engines
Upper c o v e r
15 Remove the air cleaner assembly and
intake ducts as described in Chapter 4A.
16 Undo the two retaining bolts then
wiUidraw the upper cover Irom the rear cover
and remove it from the engine compartment
17 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tightening the cover retaining bolts to the specified
torque.
Lower c o v e r
IB Removethecrankshaft pulley as desufpbaU
in Section 5,
6.16 Undo the two retaining boKs
(arrowed) and withdraw the upper cover
from the rear cover - ZISXER engines
6.19 Undo the retaining bolt and remo\
the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner Z18XER engines
7.3 Unbolt the camshaft sensor and posrti
belt - Z1BXE engines
cover, then undo the four retainma bolts and
manoeuvre the rear cover off the engine.
29 Refittina is the reverse of remova).
tightening the cover retainmg bolts to the
specified torque.
7
Timing b e l t removal and refitting
>
Note: The timing belt must be removed and
refitted with the engine cold.
Z18XE
engines
Removal
1 Position No 1 cylinder at TOO on its compression stnDke as described in Section 3.
2 Remove the timing belt lower cover as
described in Section 6.
3 Check that tlie timing marks on the camshaft
sprockets are still correctly aligned and facing
towards each other and the crankshaft
spnscket timing mark is aligned with the mark
on the rear timing belt cover (see Section 3).
Undo the two bolts securing the camshaft
sensor to the cylinder head and position it
clear of the engine (see illustration).
4 Remove the right-hand engine mounting as
described in Section 18,
W0
7.6 Removing the timing belt Z18XE engines
bolt (1) and rotate the
using an Allen key in the arm cut-out (2) Z18XE engines
5 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolt. tensioner pointer is positioned just tjefore the
Usino an Allen key, rotate the tensioner arm left stop, without exerting any excess strain
clockwise to Its stop, to relieve the tension in on the belt. Hold the tensioner in position and
securely tighten its retaining bolt,
the timing belt, hold if in position and securely
tighten the retaining bolt (see illustration).
12 Check the sprocket timing marks are still
6 Slide the timing belt from its sprockets and correctly aligned. If adjustment is necessary,
remove it from the engine (see illustration). release the tensioner again then disengage
H the belt is to be re-used, use white paint or the belt from the sprockets and make any
similar to mark the direction of rotation on the
necessary adjustments,
belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts 13 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley
until the timing belt has been refitted.
bolt, rotate the crankshaft smoothly through
7 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs two complete turns (720°) in the normal
of uneven wear, splitting w oil contamination, direction of rotation to settle the timing tielt in
and renew it if there is the slightest doubt
position.
about its condition. If the engine is undergoing 14 Check that both the camshaft and
an overhaul and is approaching the specified crankshaft sprocket timing marks are con-ectly
interval for belt renewal (see Chapter lA) realigned then slacken the tensioner bolt
renew the belt as a matter of course, again.
regardless of its apparent condition. If signs of
15 If a new timing belt is being fitted,
oil contamination are found, trace the source adjust the tensioner so that Ihe pointer is
of the oil leak and rectify it, then wash down aligned with the cut-out on the backplate
the engine timing belt area and all related (see illustration). Hold the tensioner in the
components to remove all traces of oil.
correct position and tighten its retaining bolt
Refitting
to Ihe specified torque. Rotate the crankshaft
8 On reassembly, thoroughly clean the timing smoothly through another two complete turns
in the nonnal direction of rotation, lo bring the
belt spnxkets and tensioner/idler pulleys.
9 Check that the camshaft and crankshatt sprocket timing marks back into alignment.
sprocket timing marks are still correctly Check that the tensioner pointer is still aligned
with the backplate cut-out.
aligned as described in Section 3.
16 If the original belt is being refitted,
10 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft
and camshaft sprockets and around the idler adjust the tensioner so that the pointer is
positioned 4 mm to the left of the cut-out on
pulleys, ensuring that the belt front run is taut
(16, all slack is on the tensioner side of the the backplate (see illustration 7.15). Hold the
belt), then fit the belt over the coolant pump tensioner in the correct position and tighten its
sprocket and tensioner pulley Do not twist the retaining bolt to the specified torque. Rotate
belt sharply while refitting it. Ensure that the the crankshaft smoothly through another two
belt teeth are correctly seated centrally in the complete turns in the normal direction of
sprockets, and that the timing marks remain rotation, to bring the sprocket timing marks
in alignment. If a used belt is being refitted, back into alignment. Check that the tensioner
ensure that the arrow mart( made on removal pointer is still correctly positioned in relation
points in the normal direction of rotation, as to the backplate cut-out.
before.
17 If the tensioner pointer is not correctly
positioned in relation to the backplate, repeat
11 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolt
to release the tensioner spring. Rotate the procedure in paragraph 15 (new belt) or 16
the tensioner arm anti-clockwise until the (original belt).
18 Once the tensioner pointer and backplate
remain correctly aligned, refit the camshaft
sensor, then refit the timing belt covers as
described in Section 6.
19 Refit the right-hand engine mounting
as described in Section 18, then refit the
crankshaft pulley as described in Section 5.
Z18XE
ZIBXER
Camshaft s p r o c k e t s
8
engines
Removal
20 Position No 1 cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke as described in Section 3.
21 Remove the timing belt lower and centre
covers as described in Section 6.
22 Check that the timing marks on the
camshaft sprockets are still correctly aligned
and facing t o w ^ s each other, and the timing
mark on the crankshaft sprocket is aligned
with the corresponding mark on the oil pump
liousing (Section 3).
23 Using an Allen key inserted in the slot on
the face of the timing belt tensioner, rotate the
tensioner clockwise to relieve the tension in
the liming belt. Insert a small drill bit or similar
into the slot on the inner edge of the tensioner
body to lock the tensioner in the released
position.
24 Slide the timing belt from its sprockets
and remove it from the engine. If the belt Is to
tie re-used, use white paint or similar to mark
the direction of rotation on the belt. Do not
rotate the crankshaft or camshafts until the
timing belt has been refitted.
25 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs
of uneven wear, splitting or oil contamination,
and renew It if there is the slightest doubt
about its condition. If the engine is undergoing
an overhaul and is appnaaching the specified
interval for belt renewal (see Chapter 1A)
renew the belt as a matter of course,
regandless of its apparent condition. If signs of
oil contamination are found, trace the source
of the oil leak and rectify it, then wash down
the engine timing belt area and all related
components to remove all traces of oil.
Refitting
26 On reassembly, thonaughly clean the timing
belt spnxkets and tensloner/idler pulleys.
27 Check that ihe camshaft and crankshaft
sprocket timing marks are still correctly
aligned as described in Section 3.
28 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft
and camshaft sprockets and around the idler
pulley ensuring that the belt front run Is taut
(ie, all slack is on the tensioner side of the
belt), then fit the belt over the tensioner pulley
Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting
it. Ensure that the belt teeth are correctly
seated centrally in the sprockets, and that the
timing marks remain in alignment. If a used
belt is being refitted, ensure that the arrow
mark made on removal points in the normal
direction of rotation, as before.
7.15 Align the pointer (1) with the relevant
mark on the tensioner backplate (2) Z18XE engines
clockwise and automatically tension the timing
belt.
30 Check the sprocket timing mari rviake up a sprocket-holding tool using
two ierTgUis of steei strip (one long, the
other short), and three nuts and bote; one
nut and boit forms the pivot of a forked
tool, witii the remaining two nuts and
bolts at the tips of the iorio' to engage
with the sprocket holes.
hi Hold the camshaft witii an open-ended
spanner on the fiats provided (see
iliustration).
4 Unscrew the retaining bolt and washer
and remove the spnacket from the end of the
camshaft. If the sprocket locating pin Is a
loose fit in the camshaft end, remove it and
store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping.
5 If necessary, remove the remaining sprocket
using the same method. The inlet and exhaust
sprockets are d i f f ^ n t ; the exhaust camshaft
sprocket can be easily identified by the lugs
which activate the camshaft position sensor,
6 Prior to refitting, check the oil seal(s) for
signs of damage or leakage. If necessary,
renew as described in Section 10.
7 Ensure the locating pin Is In position in the
camshaft end.
8 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft end,
aligning its cut-out with the locating pin, and
fit the washer and new retaining bolt (see
Illustration). If both sprockets have been
removed, ensure each sprocket Is fitted to the
conect shaft; the exhaust camshaft spn^cket
can be identified by the lugs on the sprocket
outer face vrtiich trigger the camshaft position
sensor.
8,8 Ensure the camshaft sprocket cut-out
(arrowed) is correctly Migaged with the
locating pin - Z18XE engines
8.13 Relit the crankshaft sprocket wHh
the locating flange and pulley locating lug
outermost - Z18XE engines
6.17 Engage the tensioner backplate
lug with the locating hole in the oil pump
housing - Z18XE engines
.20 Idler pulley retaining b o l t Z18XE engines
9 Retain the sprocket by the method
used on removal, and tighten the sprocket
retaining bolt to the specified Stage 1 torque
setting then angle-tighten the bolt through
the specihed Stage 2 angle, using a socket
and extension bar, and finally through the
specified Stage 3 angle, it is recommended
that an angle-measuring gauge is used
during the final stages of the tightening, to
ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available,
use white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and sprocket prior to
tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated through
the con-ect angle,
16 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt
and remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine.
17 Fit the tensioner to the engine, making
sure that the lug on the backplate is correctly
located in the oil pump housing hole (see
Illustration), Ensure the tensioner is conectly
seated then refit the retaining bolt. Using an
Allen key, rotate the tensioner arm clockwise
to its stop then securely lighten the retaining
bolt.
18 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
Idler pulleys
23 Remove the camshaft cove
in Section 4.
24 Remove the timing belt as descnbed in
Section 7.
25 Insert Vauxhall/Opel special tool KM-6628
into the slots on the end of the camshafts to
lock the camshafts in the TDC position, in
the absence of the special tool, a suitable
alternative can be fabricated from a steei strip
(see Tool Tip and illustration). It may be
necessary to turn the camshafts slightly using
an open-ended spanner on the flats provided,
to allow the tool to fully engage with the slots.
10 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7, then refit the camshaft cover as
described in Section 4.
19 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
20 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt(s)
and remove the idler pulleyls) fnsm the engine
Crankshaft s p r o c k e t
11 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
12 Slide the sprocket off from the end of
the crankshaft, noting which way around it is
fitted.
13 Align the sprocket locating key with the
crankshaft groove then slide the spnscket into
position, making sure its timing mark is facing
outwards (see illustration).
14 Refit the liming belt as described in
Section 7.
Tensioner assembly
15 Remove the timing belt as descnbed in
Section 7,
3.25 Insert the special tool Into the slots
on the end of the camshafts to lock the
camshafts in the TDC position ZISXER engines
21 Refit the idler pulley(s) and tighten the
retaining bolt{s] lo the specified torc|ue.
22 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7.
ZISXER
engines
Camshaft sprockets
Note 1: Vauxhall/Opel special tools KM-6340
and KM-6628 or suitable alternatives will be
required tor this procedure.
Note 2: New sprocket retaining boH(sl and a
new sprocket closure bolt seal will tie required
for refitting.
A camshaft locking tool can be made
from a steel strip approximately 4.5 mm
diick, with two grooves tiled m the strip
to clear the camshaft sensor trigger
26 Unscrew the closure bolt from the relevant
camshaft sprocket (see Illustration). Note
that a new closure boit seal will be required for
refitting.
27 Hold the camshaft using an open-ended
spanner on the flats provided, and unscrew
the camshaft spnjcket retaining bolt. Withdraw
the sprocket from the end of the camshaft.
28 If necessary remove the remaining
sprocket using the same method.
29 Prior to refitting check the oil seal(s) tor
signs of damage or leakage. If necessary,
renew as descnbed in Section 10.
30 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft end
and fit the new retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt
finger-tight only at this stage. If both sprockets
have been removed, ensure each sprocket
is fitted to the correct shaft; the exhaust
camshaft sprocket has the timing belt guide
flange on its inner face and the inlet sprocket
has the guide flange on its outer face.
8.26 Camshaft sprocket closure b
(arrowed) - Z18XER engines
31 Turn the camshaft sprucketis) until the
timing marks are facing towands each other
and aligned, it will now be necessary to
retain the sprockets in the timing position
while the sprocket retaining boit is tightened.
Engage Vauxhall/Opel special tool KM-6340
or a suitable alternative with the teeth on both
sprockets to lock the sprockets together,
32 With the camshafts and sprockets lockec
in the timing position with the special tools,
hold the camshaft using an open-ended
spanner on the flats provided and tighten the
sprocket retaining bolt to the specified Stage 1
torque setting. Now angle-tighten the bolt
through the specified Stage 2 angle, using a
socket and extension bar, and finally through
the specitied Stage 3 angle. It is recommended
that an angle-measuring gauge is used during
the final stages of the tightening, to ensure
accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use white
paint to make alignment marks between the
boK head and sprocl^et prior to tightening; the
marks can then be used to check that the bolt
t»as been rotated through the con-ect angle,
33 Fit a new seal to the camshaft sprocket
closure boit, then refit the closure bolt and
lighten to the specified torque.
34 Remove the special tools, then refit the
tining belt as described in Section 7, and the
camshaft cover as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft s p r o c k e t
35 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7,
36 Slide the sprocket off from the end of
the crankshaft, noting which way around it is
fded.
37 Align the sprocket locating key with the
aankshaft gnx>ve then slide the sprocket into
position, making sure its timing mark is facing
outwanjs.
38 Refit the liming belt as described in
Section 7,
l e n s i o n e r assembly
Note: A new tensioner retaining boit will be
required lor refitting.
as Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
40 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt
atd remove the tensioner assembly from the
wgine.
41 Clean the tensioner retaining bolt threads
m the oil pump housing, ensuring that all
•aces of sealant, oil or grease are removed.
42 Fit the tensioner to the engine, making
u e that the lug on the backplate is con-ectly
located in the oil pump housing hole. On later
•ndels, also ensure that the projecting end of
• l e tensioner spring engages with the slot on
Wte oil pump housing. Ensure the tensio:
conectly seated then refit the new retaining
belt and tighten it to the specified tongue.
43 Refit the timing belt as described in
Serton 7,
I f c r pulley
maha: A new idler pulley retaining bolt will be
tec/jired for refitting.
10 C a m s h a f t oil s e a l s renewal
9.2 Disconnect the winng connector
(arrowed) from the W T oil control valve
44 Remove the timing belt
Section 7,
45 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt and
remove the idler pulley from the engine.
46 Refit the idler pulley and tighten the new
retaining bolt to the specified tongue.
47 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7.
9
W T oil c o n t r o l valves
{Z18XER e n g i n e s } removal and refitting
-s,
RBtnoval
1 Ttie W T oil control valves am fitted to Ihe
camshaft bearing support, adjacent lo the
camshaft sprockets. Two oil control valves are
used, one for each camshaft.
2 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
relevant oil
3 Undo the retaining bolt located below
the valve, and withdraw the valve from the
camshaft bearing support. Be prepared for oil
spillage.
Refitting
4 Lubricate the valve sealing rings with
clean engine oil and insert the valve into the
camshaft bearing support.
5 Relit and tighten the retaining bolt and
reconnect the wiring connector
6 On completion, check and if necessary
top-up the engine oil as described In Weekly
checks.
10.2 Camshaft oil seal removal method
1 Remove the relevant camshaft sprocket as
described in Section 8.
2 Carefully punch or dhii two small holes
opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a selftapping screw into each, and pull on the screws
with pliers to extract the seal (see illustration).
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Press the new seal into position using a
suitable tubular drift (such as a socket) which
bears only on Ihe hard outer edge ot the seal
(see Illustration). Take care not to damage
the seal lips during fitting: note that the seal
lips should face inwards,
5 Retit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section a.
11 Vatve c l e a r a n c e s
(ZISXER engines) checking and adjustment
>
^
Note: Z1BXE engines are equipped with
hydraulic self-adjusting camshaft followers and
valve clearance adjustment is not required.
Checking
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be over
stressed, as they vitally affect the perfomiance
of the engine. The engine must be cold for
the check to be accurate. The clearances are
checked as follows,
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the nght-hand front roadwheel then
remove the wheel arch liner inner cover for
access to the crankshaft pulley
3 Remove the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4.
4 Position No 1 cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke as described in Section 3,
5 With the engine at TDC on compression
for No 1 cylinder, the inlet camshaft lobes for
No 2 cylinder and the exhaust camshaft lobes
11.78 Using feeler blades, measure the
clearance between tlw base ol both No 2
cylinder inlet cam l o b e s . . .
tor No 3 cylinder are pointing upwards and
slightly towards the centre. This indicates that
these ualves are completely closed, and the
ciearances can be checleen relieved, the bolts can be
fully unscrewed and removed along with the
caps: the iDearing caps and the cylinder head
locations are numbered (inlet camshaft 1 to 5.
exhaust camshaft 6 to 10) to ensure the caps
are correctly positioned on refitting (see
illustrations). Take care not to lose the
iocating dowels (where fitted).
Caution: It (he bearing cap bolts are
carelessly slackened, ttie bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assembly
must be renewed; the bearing caps are
matched to the head and are not available
5 Lift the camshaft out of the cylinder head
and slide oft the oil seal.
6 Repeat the operations described in
paragraphs 4 and 5 and remove the exhaust
camshaft.
7 Obtain sixteen small, clean plastic
containers, and label them for identification.
Alternatively, divide a larger container into
compartments. Using a mbber sucker tool, lift
the followers out from the top of the cylinder
head and store each one in its respective
fitted position (see Illustration). Note: Store
all the lollowers the correct way up. with the
oil groove at the bottom, to prevent the oil
draining from the hydraulic valve adjustment
mechanisms.
Inspection
8 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine the condition
of the bearing surfaces both on the camshaft
journals and in the cylinder head. It the head
bearing surfaces are worn excessively, the
cylinder head will need to be renewed.
9 Examine the follower beanng surfaces
which contact the camshaft lobes for wear
ridges and scoring. Check the followers and
their bores in the cylinder head for signs of
12.14 Apply a smear of sealant to the
12.7 Remove the followers from the
cylinder head, and store with the oil groove
(arrowed) at the bottom - Z18XE engines
wear or damage, if any follower is thought
to be faulty or is visibly worn it should be
renewed.
Befitting
10 Commence refitting by turning the
crankshaft anti-clockwise by 60". This will
position Nos 1 and 4 pistons a thinJ of the way
down the bore, and prevent any chance of
the valves touching the piston crowns as the
camshafts are being fitted. This could happen
if any ot the cam followers have excessive
011 in them before the pressure of the valve
springs forces it out.
11 Where removed, lubricate the followers
with clean engine oil and carefully insert each
one into its original location in the cylinder
head.
12 Lubncate the camshaft followers with
molybdenum disuiphide paste (or clean engine
oil) then lay the camshafts in position.
13 Ensure the mating surfaces of the bearing
caps and cylinder head are clean and dry and
lubricate the camshaft journals and lobes with
clean engine oil.
14 Apply a smear of sealant to the mating
surfaces of both the inlet (No 1) and exhaust
(No 6) camshaft right-hand bearing caps (see
illustration).
15 Ensure t^e locating dowels (where fitted)
are in position then refit the camshaft bearing
caps and the retaining bolts in their original
locations on the cylinder head. The caps are
numbered (inlet camshaft 1 to 5, exhaust
camshaft 6 to 10] from the timing belt end,
and the corresponding numbers are marked
on the cylinder head upper surface. All bearing
cap numbers should be the right way up when
viewed from the front of the engine.
16 Worie cleaned easily in solvent or renewed.
13.32a Cyltnder head bolt tightening sequence
30 Carefully rem the cylinder head, locating it
on the dowels.
31 Fit the washers to the new cylinder head
tjolts then carefully inseH them into position
(do not drop), tightening them finger-tight
only at this stage.
32 Working progressively and In the
sequence shown, first tighten all the cylinder
head bolts to the Stage 1 tongue setting (see
illustrations).
33 Once all bolts have been tightened to the
Stage 1 trnque, again working In the sequence
shown, tighten each bolt through its specified
Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension
bar. It is recommended that an angle-measuring
gauge is used during this stage of the tightening,
to ensure accuracy (see lllustratton).
34 Working in the specified sequence, go
arciund again and tighten all bolts through the
specified Stage 3 angle.
35 Working again in the specified sequence,
go around and tighten all bolts through the
specified Stage 4 angle.
36 Finally go around in the specified
sequence again and tighten all bolts through
the specified Stage 5 angle.
37 Refit the exhaust manifold as described in
Chapter 4A.
38 Reconnect the heater hoses to the lefthand end of the cylinder head or thermostat
housing and tighten the dips.
39 Refit the upper hose to the radiator and
thermostat housing and tighten the clips.
40 Refit the inlet manifold as described m
Chapter 4A.
41 Where applicable, refit the alternator
upper mounting bracket and tighten the bolts.
42 Reconnect the wiring to the components
listed in paragraph 11. then secure the wiring
with cable-ties.
43 Refer to Chapter 4A and refit the exhaust
front pipe to the exhaust manifold. Refit the
mounting robbers.
44 Refit the rear timing belt cover with
reference to Section 6.
45 Refit the camshaft sprockets, timing belt
tensioner, and the timing belt idler pulleys,
with reference to Section 8,
46 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
47 Refit the spark plugs as described in
Chapter 1 A.
48 Refit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4.
49 Refit the wheel arch linw inner cover and
front roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
50 Reconnect the battery negative tenninal.
51 Check that all relevant hoses, pipes and
wires, etc, have been reconnected. Check the
security of the fuel hose connections.
52 Refill and bleed the cooling system with
reference lo Chapter 1 A.
53 When the engine is started, check for
signs of oil or coolant leakage,
Refitting
. . . and then through the various
specified angles as described in the text
11 Thoroughly clean the sump, baffle plate
and pick-up/strainer, then remove all traces of
sealer and oil from the mating surfaces of the
sump and cylinder bloci; and (where removed)
the pick-up/strainer Also remove all traces
of locking compound from the pick-up botts
(where removed).
14.12 Rt new seal/gasket to the oil pump
pick-up pipe - Z18XE engines
12 On Z18XE engines, wtiere necessary,
position a new gasket/seal on top of the oil
pump pick-up/stralner and fit the strainer (see
illustration). Apply locking compound to the
threads of the retaining bolts then fit the bolts
and tighten to the specified tonque.
13 On ZISXER engines, where necessary,
position a new gasket/seal on the oil pump
pick-up/strainer flange and fit the strainer.
Refit the flange and base retaining bolts and
tighten to the specified tonque.
14 Ensure the sump and cylinder block
mating surfaces are clean and dry and remove
all traces of locking compound from the sump
bolts.
15 Apply a smear of suitable sealant (available
from Vauxhall/Opel dealers) to the areas of
the cylinder block mating surface around the
areas of the of the oil pump housing and main
tearing cap joints (see Illustration).
16 Apply a bead of suitable sealant (available
from Vauxhall/Opel dealers) approximately
2.5 mm thick to Ihe sealing surface of the
sump. Around the No 5 main bearing cap
area, increase the thickness of the bead to
3.5 mm (see lllustratlon).
17 Offer up the sump, and loosely refit all the
retaining bolts. Working out from the centre in
a diagonal sequence, progressively tighten the
tjoHs securing the sump to the cylinder block/
oil pump to their specified torque setting.
18 Tighten the bolts securing the sump flange
to the transmission housing to their specified
15.9 Removal of the pump outer rotor
- o u t e r face identification punch mark
arrowed - Z1SXE engines
14.15 Apply sealant to the oil pump and
main bearing cap joints (arrowed) before
the sump is refitted
tonque settings. Where fitted, refit the rubber
plugs to the sump flange cut-outs.
19 Refit the exh
and reconnect the oil level sensor wiring
connector.
20 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover and
front roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to
the ground. Fill the engine with fresh oil, with
reference to Chapter 1A.
15 Oil p u m p removal, overhaul and refitting
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Z18XE
engines
Note: TTie pressure relief valve can be removed
with pump in position on the engine unit,
although on some models it will be necessary
to unbolt the mounting bracket assembly from
the block to allow the valve to be removed.
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7,
2 Remove the rear timing belt cover as
described in Section 6.
3 Remove the sump and oil pump pick-up/
strainer as described in Section 14.
4 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
oil pressure switch.
5 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts then
slide the oil pump houang assembly off of the
15.10 Oil pressure relief valve components
-Z18XE engines
1 Plunger
3 Sealing washer
14.16 Apply a 2.5mm thick bead of sealant
to the sump sealing surface - increase the
thickness to 3.5mm around the No 5 main
bearing cap area
end of the crankshaft, taking great care not to
lose the locating dowds.
6 Remove the housing gasket and discarel it.
Overhaul
7 Undo the retaining screws and lift off the
pump cover from the rear of the housing.
8 Check the inner and outer rotors for
Identification dots indicating which way round
they aro fitted. If no marks are visible, use a
suitable m ^ e r pen to mark the surface of
both the pump inner and outer rotors.
9 Lift out the inner and outer rotors from the
pump housing (see Illustration).
10 Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve bolt
from the front of the housing and withdraw
the spring and plunger from the housing,
noting which way around the plunger is fitted.
Remove the sealing washer from the valve
bolt (see illustration).
11 Clean the components, and carefully
examine the rotors, pump body and relief
valve plunger for any signs of scoring or wear.
Renew any component which shows signs of
wear or damage; If the rotore or pump housing
are mari*:ed then the complete pump assembly
should tie renewed.
12 If the components appear serviceable,
measure the rotor endfloat using feeler blades,
and check the flatness of the end cover
(see illustration). If the clearances exceed
15.12 Using a straight-edge and feeler
blade to measure rotor endfloat Z18XE engines
ZO Refit tiie oil pump pick-up/strainer and
sump as described in Section 14.
21 Refit the rear timing bell cover to the
engine, tightening its retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
22 Refit the timing belt sprocltels, idler
puileys and tensioner then refit the belt as
described tn Sections 8 and 7.
23 On completion, fit a new oil filter and
fill the engine with clean oil as described in
Chapter 1A.
ZiaXER
15.14 Rtting a new crankshaft oil seal to
the oil pump housing - Z18XE engines
13 If the pump is satisfactory, reassemble the
components in the reverse order of removal,
noting the foiiowing.
a) Ensure both rotors are fitted the correct
way around.
b) Fit a new sealing ring to the pressure
relief valve bolt and tighten Ihe bolt to the
specified torque.
c) Apply a little locking compound to the
threads, and tighten the pump cover
screws to the specified torque.
d) On completion prime the oil pump by
filling it with clean engine oil whilst
rotating the inner rotor.
RefttUng
14 Prior to refitting, carefully lever out
the crankshaft oil seal usmg a flat-biaded
screwdriver. Fit the new oil seal, ensuring
its sealing lip is facing inwards, and press
15.17 Take care not to damage the oil seal
on the crankshaft lip (1) and engage ttie
Inner rotor with the crankshaft flats (2) Z18XE engines
it squarely into the housing using a tubular
drift which bears only on the hard outer
edge of the seal {see illustration). Press the
into position so that It is flush with the
housing.
15 Ensure the mating surfaces ot the oil pump
and cylinder block are clean and dry and the
locating dowels are in position.
16 Fit a new gasket to the cylinder block.
17 Carefully manoeuvre the oil pump into
position and engage the inner rotor with the
crankshaft end (see illustration). Locate the
pump on the dowels, taking great care not
damage the oil seal lip.
18 Refit the pump housing retaining bolts in
their original locations and tighten them to the
specified torque.
19 Reconnect the oil pressure sensor wmng
connector.
engines
Removal
24 Drain the Mling s]
Chapter lA.
25 Remove the alternator as descnbed in
Chapter 5A.
26 Remove the exhaust manifold as
described in Chapter 4A.
27 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
28 Remove the timing belt tensioner and
idler pulley, and the crankshaft spnacket as
described in Section 8,
29 Remove the sump as described In Section 14.
30 Release the clamp and disconnect the
coolant hose fnam the coolant pump.
31 Undo the two bolts securing the upper
metal coolant pipe to the rear of the coolant
pump.
32 Undo the support bracket bolt securing
the lower metal coolant pipe to the oil filter
housing.
33 Slacken and remove the eight retaining
bolts (noting their different lengths) then slide
the oil pump housing assembly off of the end
ot the crankshaft, taking great care not to lose
the locating dowels. Remove the housing
gasket and discand it.
34 Remove the metal coolant pipes and
15.35 Remove the secunng screws and
withdraw the oil pump cover from the rear
of the housing - ZIBXER engines
15.37a Unscrew the oil pressure relief
valve cap . . .
15.37b . . . then withdraw the spring . . .
15.37c , . . and the plunger ZieXER engines
Overhaul
35 Remove the securing screws/bolts and
withdraw the oil pump covet Irom the rear of
the oil pump housing (see Illustration).
36 Remove the inner and outer rotor from the
pump housing, noting which way round they
are fitted, and wipe them clean. Also clean the
rotor location in the oil pump housing.
37 The oil pressure relief valve components
can also be removed from the oil pump
housing by unscrewing the cap. Withdraw the
cap. spring and plunger (see Illustrations).
38 Locate the inner and outer rotor back in
the oil pump housing, ensuring they are fitted
the right way round as noted during removal.
39 Check the clearance between the end
faces of the rotors and the housing (endfloat)
using a straight-edge and a feeler gauge (see
illustration).
40 If the clearance is outside the specified
limits, renew the components as necessary.
41 Examine the pressure relief valve spring
and plunger, and renew if any sign of damage
or wear is evident.
42 Ensure Itiat the rotor location in the interior
of the oil pump housing is scrupulously clean
before commencing reassembly
43 Thoroughly clean the pressure relief valve
components, and lubricate them with clean
engine oil before refitting. Insert the plunger
and spring, then refit the cap and tighten to
the specified torque.
44 Ensure thai the rotors are clean, then
lubricate them with clean engine oil. and reft
them to the pump body ensuring they are fitted
the right way round as noted during removal.
45 Wipe clean the mating faces of the rear
cover and the pump housing, then retii tne rear
cover. Befit and tighten the securing screws
securely. Prime the oil pump by filing it with
clean engine oil whilst rotating the inner rotor
Refitting
15.39 Check the oil pump rotor endfloat
using a straight-edge and feeler gauge ZISXER engines
16.2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by
locking tne ring gear teeth with a suitable
tool
16.8a Tighten the flywheel bolts to the
specified torque using a torque wrench . . .
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear leeth with a similar arrangement
to that shown (see illustration). Aifernatrvely,
bolt a strap between the flywheel and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Make alignment
marks between the flywheel and crankshaft
using paint or a suitable marker pen.
3 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as if is
very heavy.
16.8b . . . then through the specified angle
using an angle tightening gauge
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
(see Illustrations). If a gauge is not available,
use white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and flywheel prior to
tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated through
the con-ect angle.
9 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6
then rmiove the locking tod, and refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7A, or 7C.
46 Prior to refitting, carefully lever out
Ihe crankshaft oil seal using a flat-bladed
screwdriver. Fit the new oil seal, ensuring
its sealing lip is facing inwards, and press it
squarely into the housing using a tubular drift
which bears only on the hard outer edge of
the seal. Press the seal into position so that it
is flush with the housing.
47 Refit the two previously-removed metal
coolant pipes.
48 Ensure the mating surfaces of the oil pump
housing and cylinder block are clean and dry
and the locating dowels are in position.
49 Fit a new gasket to the cylinder block.
50 Carefully manoeuvre the oil pump into
posif on and engage the inner rotor with the
crankshaft end. Engage the coolant pipes,
then locate the pump on the dowels, taking
great care not damage the oil seal lip.
51 Rem the pump housing retaining bolts in
Iheir original locations and tighten them to the
specified torque.
52 Retit the metal coolant pipe retaining bolts
and tighten securely,
53 Reconnect the coolant hose to the pump
and secure with the retaining clip.
54 Refit the sump as described in Section 14,
55 Refit the timing belt tensioner and idler
pulley and the crankshaft sprocket, then refit the
timing belt as described in Sections 8 and 7.
56 Refit the exhaust manifold as described in
Chapter 4A.
57 Refit the alternator as described in
Chapter 5A.
58 On completion, refer to Chapter 1A and fit
a new oil filter and fill the engine with clean oil,
then refill the cooling system.
16 F l y w h e e l removal, inspection
,.. and refitting
^
^
Note: New flywheel retaining bolts will be
required on refitting.
Removal
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A or 7C as applicable, then remove
the clutch assembly as described in Cttapter 6.
Inspection
4 Examine the flywheel for scoring of the
clutch face, if the clutch face is scored, the
flywheel may be suri'ace-ground, but renewal
is preferable. Also check for wear or chipping
of the ring gear teeth,
5 It there is any doubt about the condition of
the flywheel, seek the advice ot a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or engine reconditioning specialist.
They will be able to advise if it is possible to
recondition it or whether renewal is necessary.
17 C r a n k s h a f t oil seals -
Right-hand
(timing
belt
4j
end)
1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket as
described in Section 8.
2 Carefully punch or drill two small holes
opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a
Refitting
6 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft.
7 Offer up the flywheel and fit the new
retaining bolts. If the original is being refitted
align the marks made prior to removal,
S Lock the flywheel by the method used on
removal, and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified Stage 1 torque setting then
angle-tighten the bolts through the specified
Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension
bar, and finally through the specifed Stage 3
angle. It is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
17.2 Removing the crankshaft oil seal
self-tapping screw into each and pull on the
screws with pliers to extract the seal (see
illustration).
Caution: Great care must be taken to avoid
damage to itia oil pump.
3 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Ease the new seal into position on the end
of the crankshaft. Press the seal squarely
into position until it is flush with the housing.
If necessary, a suitable tubular drift, such
as a socket, which bears only on the hard
outer edge of the seal can be used to lap
the seal into position (see illustration).
Take great care not to damage the seal lips
during fitting and ensure that the seal lips
face inwards.
6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 8.
Left-hand
(flywheel
end)
6 Remove the flywheel as described in Section 16.
7 Renew the seal as described in paragraphs 2
to 4 (see illustration).
8 Refit the flyv;heei as descnbed in Section 16.
? 18 E n g i n e / t r a n s m i s s i o n
mountings inspection and renewal
•i^^
^
^
Inspection
1 If improved access is required, firmly apply
the handbrake, then jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vetiide support).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check Biat all the mounting's fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible.
17.4 Fitting a new crankshaft Oil seal
4 Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar, check
for wear in the mounting by ca^efully levering
against it to check for free play; where this
Is not possible, enlist the ^ d of an assistant
to move the engine/transmission unit backand-forth, or from side-to-side, while you
watch the mounting. While some free play is
to be expected even from new components,
excessive wear should be obvious. If
excessive free play is found, check first that
the fasteners are correctly secured, then
renew any worn components as described
below.
Renewal
Note: Before slackening any of the engine
mounting boits/nuts, the relative positions of
the mountings to their various brackets shouid
be marked to ensure correct alignment upon
refitting.
Front m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
5 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
mounting to the s u b t r e e bracket. Withdraw
the through-bolt (see Illustration).
7 Undo the bolts securing the mounting
bracket to the transmission, then manoeuvre
the mounting and bracket out of position.
17.7 Left-hand crankshaft Oil s e a l transmission and flywheel removed
8 Check all components for signs of wear or
damage, and renew as necessary.
9 Locate the mounting in the subframe, refit
the through-bolt and nut, then tighten the nut
finger-tight at this stage.
10 Refitthemountingbrackettothefransmissbn
and tighten its bolts to the ^ieclfied torciue.
11 Tighten the through-bolt nut to the
specified tonque.
12 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Rear m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
13 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacl^ng and vehicle support).
14 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission and
the through-bolt securing the mounting to the
bracket (see illustration).
15 Undo the nuts and remove the two bolts
securing the mounting to the subframe (see
illustration). Manoeuvre the mounting and
bracket out frcim under the car.
16 Refit the bracket to the transmission and
tighten the bolts to the specified tonque.
17 Locate the new mounting in position.
Insert the bolts and tighten the bolt/nuts to the
specified tonque.
18 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Right-hand mounting
19 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
20 Remove the air cleaner as described In
Chapter 4A.
21 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
tc the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder
head, and support the weight of the engine.
22 Mark the position of the three bolts
jring the mounting bracket to the engine
bracket and undo the bolts. Undo the two
belts and one nut securing the mounting to
the body and remove Ihe mounting assembly
(see Illustrations).
23 Place the mounting assembly in position
and refit the two bolts and the nut securing
the mounting to the body Tighten the bolts/
nut to the specified torque. Align the mounting
in its original position, then tighten the three
mounting bracket bolts to the specified
torque.
24 Remove the hoist, then refit the air cleaner
as described in Chapter 4A.
25 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
18.28 Left-hand mounting bracket-to-transmlsslon bracket retaining bolts (an-owed) ~
diesel model shown, petrcri similar
Left-hand mounting
26 Remove the battery and bai.ierv tiox as
described in Chapter 5A.
27 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder
head, and support the weight of the engine.
28 Using a Tont socket, unscrew the three
bolts securing the mounting bracKi.v to tne
transmission bracket (see illustration).
29 Undo the four bolts securing the mounting
18.29 Left-hand
g-to-body
retaining bolts (arrowed) - shown with
engine/transmission removed
to the body and the three bolts securing the
Transmission bracket to the transmission (see
illustration). Remove the mounting assembly
I the c.
30 Locate the mounting brackets in position
rtien insert the bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
31 Disconnect the hoist and lifting tackle.
32 Refit the battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A.
Chapter 2 Part B:
2,2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Section n Tiber
Balance shaft - removal and refitting
Camshaft and followers - removal, Inspection and refitting
Camshaft cover - removai and refitting
Compression test - genera infonnation
Cranlolts
Timing cliain cover bolts
Timing cliain guide rail bolt access plug
Timing ctiain guide rail bolts
Timing chain oil spray/injector nozzle
Timing chain sliding rail bott*
Timing chain tensioner:
Balance shafts
Camshaft
Timing chain tensioner rail pivot bolt..
• Use n. -
1
General i n f o r m a t i o n
This Part ot Chapter 2 describes the
repair procedures which can reasonably be
carried out on the engine while it remains in
the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle and is being dismantled as
described in Chapter 2E, any preliminary
dismantling procedures can be ignored.
Note that, while it may be possible
physically to overhaul items such as the
piston/connecting rod assemblies while the
engine is in the vehicle, such tasks are not
usually carried out as separate operations,
and usually require the execution of several
additional procedures (not to mention the
cleaning of components and of oilways); for
this reason, all such tasks are classed as
major overhaul procedures, and are described
in Chapter 2E.
Chapter 2E describes the removal of the
engine/transmission unit from the vehicle, and
the full overhaul procedures which can then
be canied out.
Engine
description
The engine is of the sixteen-valve, in-line
four-cylinder, double overhead camshaft
{DOHC) type, mounted transversely at the
ftont of the car with the transmission attached
to its left-hand end.
The aluminium alloy cylinder block is of the
dry-liner type. The crankshaft is supported
within the cylinder block on five shell-type
main bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to
number 2 main bearing, to contrai crankshaft
endfloat.
Tne connecting rods rotate on horizontallysplit bearing shells at their big-ends. The
pistons are attached to the connecting rods by
gudgeon pins, which are retained by circlips.
The aluminium-alloy pistons are fitted with
three piston rings - two compression rings
and scraper-type oil control ring.
The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs, and operate in guides
pressed into the cylinder head.
The camshafts are driven by the crankshaft
via a timing chain aniingement; there is also a
lower timing chain which links the crankshaft
to the balance shafts and coolant pump. The
camshafts rotate directly in the head and
operate the sixteen valves via followers and
hydraulic tappets. The followers are situated
directly below the camshafts, each one
^Derating a separate valve. Wive cleararx^ are
automatically adjusted by the hydraulic tappets.
Lubrication is by means of an oil pump,
which is driven off the right-hand end of the
crankshaft. \t draws oil from the sump, and
then forces it thraugh an externally-mounted
filter into galleries In the cylinder block/
crankcase. From there, the oil is distributed to
the crankshaft (main bearings) and camstiafts.
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via
Internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the
camshaft bearings also receive a pressurised
supply. The camshaft lobes and valves are
lubricated by splash, as are all other engine
ccmiponents. The timing chain is lubncated by
an oil spray nozzle.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed: crankcase fumes are drawn from
camshaft cover, and passed via a hose to tiie
inlet manifold.
O p e r a t i o n s with
engine
in
cor
The following operations can be canied out
without having to remove the engine from the
car.
a) Compression presare - testing.
b) Camshaft cover - removal and refitting.
0) Timing djain cover- removal and
refitting.
d) Timing chains - removai and refitting.
e) Timing chajn tensioners, guides and
spracfteis - removal and refitting.
f) Cam^ñ and followers - removal,
inspection and refitting.
g) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
h) Connecting rods and pistoris - removal
and refitting.*
1) Sump ~ removal and refitting.
j) Oil pump - removal, overtiaul and
refitting,
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
I) Engine/transmission mountingsinspection and renewal
m) Flywheei/drivepiate - removal, inspection
and refitting.
'AKiough ttie operation marked with an asterisk
can be canied out witii m engine in the car (after
removal of the sump). It Is better for the engine
to jbe removed, in the Interests of cleanliness and
improved access. For this reason, the procedure
isdesaibedinChapter2E.
2
''M
OomfMessiontest~
ii information
^
S
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 2.
3
Valve t i m i n g checking and adjustment
Note: To check the valve timing, it will be
necessary to use a Vauxhall/Opei special looi
(or suitable equivalent): the camshaft locking
tool number is KM-6148. If access to (his tool
cannot be gained, this task must be entnjsted
to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer. The camshaft
locking tool has locating pins tiiat locate in the
holes in the camshaft sprockets, to ensure that
the camshafts remain con-ectly positioned.
1 The valve timing is checked and, If
necessary adjusted, with No 4 piston at top
dead centre (TDC) on its compresston stroke.
No 4 piston and cylinder are at the flywheel/
driveplate end of the engine,
2 Remove the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4.
3 Apply the handbrake, tiien jack up the frant
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
nght-hand front roadwheel and the wheel arch
liner inner cover for access to the crankshaft
pulley.
3.4 Crankshaft pulley and timing chain
cover timing marks (1)
3.6a Vauxhall/Opd camshaft locking tool
(KM-6148)
3.6b Locking the camshaft sprockets In
position using the VauxhaiVOpel tool
A Camshaft sprocket locating pins
4 Using a socket and extension bar on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft
clockwise (when viewed from the right-hand
side of the car) until the notch on the
crankshaft pulley rim is aligned with the pointer
on the timing chain cover (see illustration].
The engine is now positioned with No 1 and 4
pistons at TDC.
5 To determine which piston Is on its
compression stroke, check the position of
the camshaft lobes. When Mo 4 piston is at
TDC on its compression stroke. No 4 cylinder
camshaft lobes will be pointing upwards.
If No 4 cylinder camshaft lobes are pointing
downwards, rotate the crankshaft through
a further complete turn (360°) to bring No 4
cylinder to TDC on its compression stroke.
6 With the notch on the crankshaft pulley
rim aligned with the pointer on the timing
chain cover, insert the camshaft locking tool
into position on the camshaft sprockets (see
Illustrations).
7 If the locking tool can be conectly fitted the
valve timing is correctly set and no adjustment
8 Refit the camshaft cover as described In
Section 4, then rofit the vtrheei arch liner inner
cover and roadwheel, and lower the vehtele to
the ground.
9 If the camshaft tool cannot be inserted
correctly into the camshaft sprockets, the
timing will need to be reset. Refer to Section 8
for the rwnoval, inspection and refitting of the
timing chain and sprockets.
4
C a m s h a f t cover removal and refitting
1 Unclip and remove the plastic cover from
the top of the engine (see illustration).
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
3 Remove the ignition module as described In
Chapter 5B.
4 Disconnect the breather hose from the front
of the camshaft cover (see illustration).
5 Unscrew the nut securing the coolant
pipe to the stud at the left-hand end of the
camshaft cover.
6 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve and the
oxygen sensors.
7 Undo the two retaining bolts and release the
wiring bracket from the left-hand side of the •
camshaft cover. With the bracket removed, undo
the right-hand stud to release the earth strap.
8 Undo the two retaining bolts from the timing
chain end of the camshaft cover to release the
hoses and pipe supports.
9 Free the wiring harness from its clips/
brackets at the front and side of the camshaft
cover as necessary.
10 Slacken and remove the camshaft cover
retaining bolts along with their sealing washers
(where fitted) then lift the camshaft cover and
gasket/seals away from the cylinder head.
Renew the cover gasket/seals and retaining
bolt sealing washers, as applicable.
Reming
4.1 Remove the plastic cover from the top
otUie engine
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal noting
the following points:
a; Use new camshaft cover ga^et/seals.
b) Once the cover is in position, first tighten
all the bolts hand-tight, then go around
and tighten them all to the specitied
torque setting.
c) Refit the ignition module as described in
Chapter SB.
d) Refit the air cleaner and intake duct as
7 Chapter 4A.
5
Crankshaft pulley/
vibration d a m p e r removal nm romrind
^
^
Note 1: Vauxhall/Opel special tools KM-9m-1
and KfiA-J-38122 or suitable alternative will be
required to prevent crankshaft rotation whilst
the retaining bolt is slackened/tightened.
Note 2: A new pulley retaining bolt will be
required on refitting.
Removal
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frorrt
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
right-hand front roadwheel and the wheel an:^
liner Inner cover for access to the crankshaft
pulley
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A. Prior to removal, mark the
direction of rotation on the belt to ensure the
belt is refitted the same way around,
3 Slacken the crankshaft pulley retaining
bolt. To prevent crankshaft rotation whilst
the retaining bolt is slackened, it will be
necessary to hold the crankshaft pulley with
the Vauxhall/Opel tool or a suitable alternative
(see illustration 5.6).
4 Unscrew the retaining trolt and washer and
remove the crankshaft pulley from the end of
the crankshaft. Whilst the pulley is removed
check the oil seal for signs of wear or damage
and, if necessary, renew as described in
Section 14.
5.5a Turn the pulley until the flat
centre hub locates with the oil pump
drive...
Refitting
5 Carefully locate the crankshaft pulley on the
crankshaft end. Align the flats on the pulley
with the oil pump, then turn the pulley to
align the slot in the pulley with the crankshaft
key. Slide the pulley fully into position, taking
great care not to damage the oil seal, then
fit the washer and new retaining bolt (see
6 Lock the crankshaft by the method used on
removal, and tighten the pulley retaining bolt
to the specified Stage 1 torque setting then
angle-tighten the bolt through the specified
Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension
bar, and finally through the specitied Stage 3
angle. It Is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
(see Illustration). If a gauge is not available,
use white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and pulley prior to
tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated through
the correct angle.
7 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A using the mark made prior to
removal to ensure the belt is fitted the conect
way around.
8 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover and
roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
6
T i m i n g chain c o v e r removal and refitting
. . then fit a new securing bolt to the
pulley
,g gauge
to lighten the crankshaft pulley whilst
preventing pulley rotation with a suitable tool
6 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1A. Vi/hen the oil has completely drained,
refit the drain plug with new sealing washer,
and tighten to the specified torque.
7 Remove the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 5.
8 Undo the three nuts securing the exhaust
system front pipe to the catalytic converter,
taking care to support the flexible section.
Note: Angular movement in excess of 10°
can cause permanent damage to the flexible
section. Separate the flange joint and recover
the gasket.
9 Undo the through-bolt securing the rear
engine mounting/torque link to the mounting
bracket, and the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission (see
illustration). Remove the mounting bracket
from under the car.
10 Unscrew the nut and
through-bolt securing the front engine
mounting/tonque link to the subframe (see
Illustration).
11 Connect a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the right-hand end of the engine and support
its weight. If available, the type of support bar
which locates in the engine compartment side
channels is to be prefened.
12 Mark the bolt positions for correct
refitting, then undo the three bolts securing
the right-hand engine mounting to the
engine bracket, and the two bolts and one
nut securing the mounting to the body (see
illustrations). Remove the mounting.
13 Using the hoist, carefully raise the
right-hand end of the engine until the bolts
securing the engine mounting bracket to the
cylinder head are accessible. Undo the three
bolts and remove the engine bracket.
14 Reposition the hoist as necessary, then
^
•
Removal
1 Unclip and remove the plastic cover from
the top of the engine (see Illustration 4.1).
2 Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
4 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axie stands
(see Jacliing and vefiicle supped).
5 Remove the right-hand front roadwheel and
ttie wheel aroh liner inner cover.
:o the engine bracket . , .
undo the drivebelt tensioner central mounting
boit. Remove the tensioner assembly fram the
engine {see illustration).
15 Noting each bolt's correct fitted location
(one bolt is also securing the coolant pump),
slacken and remove all the bolts securing the
timing chain cover to the cylinder block (sea
illustration). It may be necessary to raise or
lower the engine using the hoist to enable all
the bolts to be removed.
16 Carefully ease the timing cover squarely
away from the cylinder block and manoeuvre
it out of position, noting the correct fitted
positions of its locating dowels. If the locating
dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store
with the cover for safe-keeping.
17 Remove the gasket and ensure the mating
surfaces are clean. Obtain a new gasket for
refitting,
Remting
IB Prior to refitting the cover, it is
recommended that the crankshaft oil seal
should be renewed. Carefully lever the old
seal out of the cover using a large flat-bladed
screwdriver Fit the new seal to the cover,
making sure its sealing lip is facing inwanls.
Press/tap the seal into position until it is
flush with the cover, using a suitable tubular
drift, such as a socket, which bears only
on the hard outer edge of the seal (see
Illustrations).
19 Ensure the mating surfaces of the cover
and cylinder block are clean and dry and the
locating dowels are in position.
20 Manoeuvre the new gasket into position
and tocate H on the dowels.
6.18b . . . then using a suitable drift tap in
the new oil seal
21 Manoeuvre the timing cover into position,
locating it on the dowels. Refit the cover
retaining bolts, ensuring each one is fitted in
its original location, and tighten them evenly
and progressively to the specified torque.
22 Place the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner
assembly in position ensuring that the locating
peg on the tensioner mounting surface
engages con-ectly with the corresponding hole
in the timing chain cover. Tighten the tensioner
central mounting bolt to the specified torque.
23 Refit the engine mounting bracket lo the
cylinder head and tighten the three retaining
bolts to Ihe specified tonque.
24 Locate the right-hand engine mounting
in position, then refit the three bolts securing
the mounting to the engine bracket and the
two twits and one nut securing the mounting
to the body Align the mounting in its original
Dosition. then tinhten the bolts and nut to the
specified tonque.
7.4 Removing the tinrtng chain tensioner
assembly
25 Remove the hoist and lifting tackle from
the engine.
26 Refit the through-bolt and nut securing
the front engine mounting/torque link to the
subframe. Tighten the nut to the specified
torque.
27 Place the rear engine mounting/toreiue link
mounting bracket in position and refit the three
bolls securing the bracket to the transmission.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque,
28 Refit the rear engine mounting/torque
link through-bolt and tighten the bolt to the
specified tonque.
29 Using a new gasket, retit the exhaust front
pipe flange joint to the catalytic converter and
tighten the three retaining nuts to the specified
tonque.
30 Refit the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 5.
31 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
32 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover
and roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
33 Refer to Chapter 4A if necessary and refit
the air cleaner assembly and air intake duct.
34 Refill the engine with oil as described in
Chapter 1A.
35 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal and refit the engine cover.
Start the engine and check lor signs of oil
leaks.
7
Timing chain tensioners -
^
remova! and refitting
^
Camshaft
chain
tensioner
Note: It a new camshaft liming chain tensioner
is being fitted, then a new tension rail
should be fitted at the same time- Under no
circumstances should the old tension rail be
Utted with a new tensioner
Removal
1 Remove the camshaft cover as described In
Section A.
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the nght-hand front roadwheel and the wheel
arch liner inner cover.
3 Refer to the information contained in Section 3. and set No 4 piston at approKimately
10" BTDG on its compression stroke.
4 IJnscrew the camshaft timing chain
tensioner fram the rear of the cylinder head,
and remove the inner piston assembly (see
illustration) Remove the sealing rings and
discard them, new ones should be used on
refitting.
Caution: Do not rotate the engine whilst
the tensioner is removed.
5 Dismantle the tensioner, and inspect the
tensioner piston tor signs of we;
and renew if necessary (see illustration).
7.5 Inner piston removed to check for
wear or damage
7.6a Turn the inner piston screw ciocKwisi
until It locks In p o s i t i o n . . .
Refitting
6 Pretension the timing chain tensioner,
by turning the inner piston clockwise (see
illustrations) and allow it to lock in position.
LulJtlcate the inner piston, then reassemble
the timing chain tensioner.
7 Fit the sealing rings, then lubricate the
timing chain tensioner/piston with clean engine
oil and insert it into the cylinder head. Note:
Check the threads are clean on the tensioner
and in the cyiinder head before refitting.
a Tighten the tensioner to the specified
9 Release the tensioner, by pressing on the
tension rail/timing chain with a rounded bar
(see illustration). This will press against the
inner piston of the tensioner to unlock It, when
it releases, the spring-loaded piston will take
up the slack in the timing chain.
Caution: This procedure must be canied
out correctly, otherwise the chain may be
left slack and skip a tooth on the sprockets.
This will result in engine damage,
10 Rotate Ihe crankshatt through two
complete rotations (720") in ihe correct
direction of rotation and recheck the valve
timing as described In Section 3.
11 Refit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4.
12 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover
and roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Balance
s/iaft chain
tensioner
Removal
13 Remove the timing chain cover as
described In Section 6.
14 Undo the two retaining bolts and
the balance shaft ch;
cylinder block.
Caution: Do not rotate the
the tensioner is removed.
15 Inspect the tensioner
wear or damage and renev
Refitting
16 Pretension the balance shaft oham
tensioner, by turning the piston clockwise
approximately 45° and push it back into the
tensioner housing. Insert a 1,0 mm locking pin
or drill bit into ttie hole in the piston housing.
7.9 Press the bar against the tension
which will lock the piston In position (see
Illustration).
17 Lubricate the tensioner piston with clean
engine oil, then relit it onto the cylinder block
tightening the bolts to there specified tonque.
18 Once the tensioner is in position, remove
the locking pin to release the tensioner piston
(see Illustration). Make sure the piston
engages' with the tension rail correctly and
7.16 1.0 mm drill bit (arrowed) used to look
the tensioner piston in place
release the tensioner inner piston
takes up any slack in the balancer shaft timing
chain.
Caution: This procedure must be carried
out correctly, otherwise the chain may be
left slack and skip a tooth on the sprockets.
This could result in engine vibration or
s described
7.IS Removmg the locking pin to n
8
B.Ob . . . the co[)[mr-co(oured link
(arrowed) with the diamond timing mark o
the intake s p r o c k e t . . .
Timing chains and sprockets
- removal, inspection
and refitting
^
Note: In order to set the valve timing accurate
at TDC. a Vauxhall/Opel special tool (or
suitable alternative) is required (see Section 3).
If the timing chain and sprockets are to be
completely removed or refitted, then this tas*
can be carried out without ttie tool. The timing
can be re-aligned using the coloured links on
the timing chain and the alignment marks on
the sprockets (see illustrations).
Caution: Prior to removal, ensure the
camshaft sprockets are suitably marked
as they are identical and can be refitted lo
either camshaft.
Removal
8.0c . . . and the second silver-coloured
link (arrowed) with Uie liming mark (vriiKe
dot) on the crankshaft sprocket
Chain
tensioner
and
guide
rails
20 Tensioner and guide rail removal and
refitting is part of the timing chain and:
8.6 Undo the two n
from the chain sliding rail
removal and refitting procedure (see Sectbn 8).
They must be renewed if they show signs of
wear or damage on their chain surfaces.
boHs - hold the camshafts using a
open-ended spanner
C a m s h a f t chain a n d s p r o c k e t s
Note: If there is any wear on the camshaft
timina chain, tension rails, guides and
crankshaft sprocket the components must
always be renewed as a complete assembly.
Note: New camshaft sprocket retaining bote
and new timing chain sliding rail mtaining bote
will be required on refitting.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
F!eference Chapter), then remove the camshaft
cover (see Section 4).
2 Position No 4 piston at TDC on its compression stroke, as described in Section 3.
3 Remove the timing chain cover as described
in Section 6.
4 Remove the camshaft timing chain tensioner
as described in Section 7.
5 Disconnect the wiring plug, then undo
the retaining bolt and remove the camshaft
position sensor from the cylinder head.
6 Undo the two retaining bolts from the
camshaft timing chain sliding rail on the top of
the cylinder head (seo illustration).
7 Remove the access plug from the cylinder
head and undo the upper securing bolt for the
timing chain guide rail (see illustrations),
8 Undo the lower securing bolt for the timing
chain guide rail and remove downwards out
from the engine (see Illustration).
9 Hold the camshafts in turn using an
open-ended spanner on the flats provided,
then slacken and remove the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolts (see illustration).
10 Remove the exhaust camshaft sprocket,
making sure it is marked for refitting as they
are both identical.
11 Undo the lower securino bolt from the
timing chain tension rail, then remove it
downwards and out trom the engine (see
illustration),
12 Lift the timing chain off the crankshaft
sprocket and remove the intake camshaft
sprocket complete with timing chain out
through the top of the cylinder head.
13 Slide the crankshaft drivegear/sprocket
(and spring washer, where fitted) off the
8,11 Undo the retaining bolt and remo s the tension rail from the
engme
Wbodmff ten remove the sprocket from the balance
shaft (see illustration). Use new bolts when
« Slide the crankshaft dhvegear/sprocket
tand spring washer, where fitted) off the
Iftbodrufl key on the crankshaft. Note: FRONT
is marked on the outer face of the gear.
2D Lock the coolant pump drivegear with
a suitable screwdriver, and undo the three
securing tjolts. Remove the drivegear from the
«»iant pump,
8.16 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the tension rail and
guide r«lle
A Tension
sideways movement. If there is an excessive
amount of side play in a timing chain, it must
be renewed.
23 Note that it is a sensible precaution to
renew the timing chains, regardless of their
annarent condition, if the engine has covered
a high mileage, or if it has been noted that the
chain(s) have sounded noisy when the engine
running. It is advised renewing the chains
and sprockets as a matched set, since it is
false economy to run a new chain on worn
sprockets and vice-versa, if there is any doubt
accui tne condition of the timing chains and
sprockets, seek the advice of a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer sen/ice department, who will be able
to advise you as to the best course ot action,
based on their previous knowledge of the
engine.
24 Examine the chain guideis) and tensioner
rail(s) for signs ol wear or damage to their
chain contact faces, renewing any which are
badly marked.
Refitting
Camshaft c h a i n a n d s p r o c l t e t s
25 If any new components are iaeing fitted,
transfer any alignment marks you have made
rail
B Guide rails
from the original components to aid refitting.
Ensure the crankshaft is still at the TDC
position.
26 If not already fitted, refit the balance shaft
timing chain and sprockets as described in
paragraphs 42 to 49.
27 Slide the crankshaft drive sprocket (and
spring washer, where fitted) onto the Woodruff
key on the crankshaft. Note: FRONT is
marked on the outer face of the spmcket (see
Illustration).
28 Refit the intake camshaft sprocket complete
wltti timing chain down through the top of the
cylinder head. The copper coloured link should
line up with the INT mark on the intake sprocket
(a cable-tie can be used to keep the chain in
position - see illustration 8.0b|. Attach the
sprocket to the camshaft using a new securing
bolt, tightening it hand-tighl at this stage.
29 Insert the liming chain tension rail up
through the engine casing into position for the
tensioner. (Do not refit the lower securing bolt
until the timing chain is in position.)
30 Insert Ihe exhaust camshaft sprocket into
the timing chain, making sure the silver link on
the timing chain lines up with the EXH marit on
the sprocket (a cable-tie can iDe used to keep
Ihe chain in position - see illustration 8.0a),
tnspectlon
Ti Examine the teeth on the sprockets for
mri sign of wear or damage such as chipped,
hooked or missing teeth. It there is any sign of
•ear or damage on any sprocket/gear, all ttie
ajjDCkets/gears and the relevant chain shouid
he renewed as a set.
S Inspect the links of each timing chain for
S9IS of wear or damage on the rollers. The
• r e n t of wear can be judged by checking
9v amount by which the chain can be Pent
•deways; a new chain will have very little
1 U^ng a drift to lock the balance shaft
sprocket
8.27 Refit the timing chain crankshaft
sprocket, noting FRONT is marked on the
outer face
8.30 Turning the camstiaft slightly using
an open-ended spanner to locate the
sprocket in the correct position
8 ^ RemthebrfMice Shaft crankshaft
sprocket, noting FRONT is marked on the
outer face
Attach the sprocket to the camshaft using a
new securing twit, tightening it hand-tight at
this stage. Note: One or boffi of Ihe camshafts
may have moved slightly, due to valve spring
pressure. It may be necessary to turn the
camshafts slightly to locate the sprockets
in the correct position, use an open-ended
spanner on the camshaft if required (see
illustration). Do not turn the camshafts too
far as t/ie engine is set at TDC and the valves
could hit the pistons.
31 Locate the timing chain onto the crankshaft
drive Sprocket, aligning the silver link with the
mark on the spnscket {see llluMrafion BJOc).
8.44 Refit the balance shaft sprockets
using new securing bolts
32 The lower securing bolt can now be fitted
to the tension rail and tightened to its specified
torque.
33 Insert the guide rail and fit lower securing
twit, tightening it to its specified torque.
34 Refit the guide rail upper securing trolt and
access bolt in the cylinder head, tightening
them to their specified torque,
Caulfon; All the timing marks (coloured
chain links) must be aligned with the
corresponding marJts on Ihe sprockets.
This procedure
must be carried
out
correctly, otherwise the timing being offset
by one tooth will result in engine damage.
w points upwards on the intake sprocket
35 Refit the timing chain cover as described
in Section 6.
36 Remove the cable-ties from camshaft
sprockets. Hold the camshafts in turn with an
open-ended spanner on the flats provided ani
tighten the sprocket bolts to the specified
Stage 1 torque setting, then tighten the bolh
through the specified Stage 2 and Stage 3
angles, it is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final stages
of the tightening, to ensure accuracy, if a gauge
is not available, use white paint to malte
alignment marks prior to tightening; the marks
can then be used to check that the bolts have
oeen nstated through tho conect angle.
37 Attach the sliding rail for the camshaft
timing chain to the top of the cylinder head,
using new retaining bolts tighten them to the
specified torque (see illustration).
38 Refit the camshaft timing chain lensiona"
as described in Section 7.
39 Refit the camshaft position sensor and
reconnect the wiring plug.
40 Rotate the crankshaft through two
complete revolutions (720°) in the correct
direction of rotation (to bring number 4 piston
back to TDC on its compression stroke). If S »
special tool is available, check the valve timing
as described in Section 3,
41 Retit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4, then reconnect the battery negative
tenninal.
Balance shaft chain a n d s p r o c k e t s
42 Refit the drivegear to the coolant pump,
and tighten the three securing bolts to tt>e
specified torque.
43 Slide the crankshaft drivegear/sprocket
(and spring washer, where fitted) onto the
Woodruff key on the crankshaft. Note: FROfiT
Is marked on the outer face of the gear (aeo
illustration). The timing mark on the drivegear
should be pointing downwards to aiion with
the silver-coloured link on the timing chain.
44 Refit the exhaust sprocket to the balance
8.46 Balance shaft timing chain layout
A Silver-coloured chain links
aligned with timing marks
B Copper-coloured chain link
aligned with timing madr
9.6 Alignment marks made on camshaft
sprockets for refitting
*att, using a new securing bolt (see illustration).
Ttie spnacket is marked EXHAUST and has an
anow whteh points downwards to align with the
siver-coloured link on the timing ch^n. Tighten
the bolts to the specified torque, locking the
Dsfance shaft sprockets as on removal.
45 Refit the intake sprocket to the balance
£ííaft, using a new securing bolt. The sprocket is
rnarked INTAKE and has an anow whteh points
iXiwards to align with the copper-coloured link
on the timing chain (see Illustration). Tighten
the bolts to the specified tonque, locking the
balance shaft spn^ckets as on removal.
46 Refit the balance shaft timing chain to ^ e
sorockets/gears and align the timing mar1een relieved, the
bolts can be fully unscrewed and removed,
along with the caps. Take care not to loose
any locating dowels which may be fitted to
some of the bearing caps and lift the camshaft
out from the head.
Caution: If the bearing cap baits are
carelessly slackened, the bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assembly
must be renewed; the bearing caps are
9.16 Keep the hydraulic tappets In labelled
contarners with clean engine oil
matched to the head and are not available
separately.
15 Otitain 16 small, clean plastic containers,
and label them for Identification. Alternatively,
divide a larger container into compartments.
Lift the followers out from the top of the
cylinder head and store each one in Its
respective fitted position (see illustration).
16 If the hydraulic tappets are also to be
removed, withdraw each hydraulic tappet
and place them in small containers with clean
engine oil. Tills will keep them primed ready
for refitting (see Illustration).
Infection
17 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine the condition
of the bearing surfaces txith on the camshaft
journals and in the cylinder head. If the head
bearing surfaces are worn excessively, the
cylinder head will need to be renewed.
18 Examine the follower bearing surfaces
which contact the camshaft lobes for wear
ridges and scoring. Renew any followers on
which these conditions are apparent.
19 Check the hydraulic tappets (where
removed) and their bores in the cylinder head
for signs of wear or damage, if any tappet is
thought to be faulty it should be renewed.
Refitting
20 Where removed, lubricate the hydraulic
tappets with clean engine oil and carefully
insert each one into its original location in the
cylinder head (see illustration).
) Lubricate the tappets wrth clean
engine oil before refitting
9-25 Refitting No 11 cap to fhe flywheel/
driveplate end of the intake camshaft
21 Refit the camshaft followers to the cylinder
head, ensuring each follower is fitted in its
original location (see illustration).
22 Lubricate the camshaft followers with
clean engine oil then lay the camshafts into
position. Ensure the crankshaft is still set at
TDC, and position fhe camshafts so that the
lobes of No 4 cylinder are pointing upward.
23 Ensure the mating surfaces of the bearing
caps and cylinder head are clean and dry and
lubricate the camshaft journals and lot)es with
clean engine oil.
24 Apply a smear of sealant to the cylinder
head mating surface at the flywheei/drivepiate
end of the intake camshaft (No 11) bearing
cap (see illustration). Refit the cap locating
dowels to the cap if they have been removed.
25 Refit the camshaft bearing caps and the
retaining bolts in their original locations on
the cylinder head. The caps are numbered
1 to 10 with all numbers being the right
way up whan viewed from the drivers seat:
numbers 1 to 5 on the exhaust camshaft
starting from the timing chain end of the
engine, and numbers 6 to 10 on the intake
camshaft starting at the timing chain end.
Refit the n t h cap on the intake camshaft,
at the fivwheel/driveolate end of the cyiinder
head (see illustration).
26 Tighten all bolts by hand only then,
woridng in a spiral pattern from the centre
oulwanJs, tighten the bolts by half a turn at a
time to gradually impose the pressure of the
valve springs on the bearing caps. Repeal
this sequence until all bearing caps are in
contact with the cylinder head then go around
and tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts
g.27 Refit new retaining bolts to the
camshaft sprockets
to the specified torque. When all the caps
have been tightened, where applicable, refit
the cover plate to No 11 tiearing cap using a
new gasket, and tighten the two twits to the
specified tonque.
Caution: If ttte bearing cap bolts are
carelessly tightened, the bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assembly
must be renewed; the bearing caps are
matched to the head and are not available
separately.
27 Using the marks made on removal,
ensure that the timing chain is still correctly
engaged with the sprockets then refit the
camshaft sprockets to the camshafts. It may
be necessary to turn the camshafts slightly to
locate the sprockets in the conect position,
use an open-ended spanner on the camshaft
If required. Fit the new retaining bolts
hand-tight at this stage (see illustration).
10.4 Remove the two coolant hoses
(antjwed) from the from of the cylinder
head
Remove the cable-ties from the timing chain
and spnsckets.
28 Refit the camshaft timing chain tensioner
as described in Secfion 7.
29 If the special tool is available, check
that No 4 cylinder is correctly set at TDC on
compression as descrit«d in Section 3. If the
special tool is not available, make sure the
marks made on the sprockets prior to removal
are comectly aligned.
30 Hold the camshafts in turn with an
open-ended spanner on the flats provided
and tighten the sprocket bolts to the specified
Stage 1 torque setting, then tighten the bolts
through the specified Stage 2 and Stage 3
angles. It is recommended that an anglemeasunng gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
if a gauge is not available, use white paint
to make alignment marks prior to tightening;
the marks can then be used to check that the
bolts have been rotated through the conect
angle.
31 Refit the camshaft timing chain sliding rail
using new retaining bolts, then tighten to the
specified tonque.
32 Rotate the crankshaft through two
complete revolutions (720°! in the correct
direction of rotation (to bring number 4 piston
back to TDC on its compression stroke). If the
special tool is available, check the valve timing
as described in Section 4. If the special tool is
not available, check that the marks made on
the sprockets prior to removal are correctly
aligned.
33 Retit the camshaft position sensor and
reconnect the wiring plug.
34 Refit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4,
35 Refit the high-pressure fuel pump as
described in Chapter 4A.
36 Reconnect the battery negative terminal
and lower the vehicle to the ground (where
applicable)
10 Cylinder h e a d removal and refitting
^
^
Note: New cylinder head bolts, camshaft
timing chain sliding rail bolts and camshaft
sprocket retaining bolts will be required on
refitting.
Removal
1 Drain the cooling system a
Chapter 1A2 Remove the camshaft timing chain and
spnDckets as described in Section 8.
3 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described in Chapter 4A.
4 Release the retaining dips and disconnect the
coolant hoses fram the frant of the right-hand
end of the cylinder head (see illustration),
5 Slacken and remove the four retaining bolls
from the timing chain end of the cylinder head
(see Illustrations 10.25a and 10.25b).
10.1S Using a tap to clean out the threads
In ttie oyiinder block
6 Working in the reverse of the tightening
sequence shown in illustration 10,31,
progressively slacken the ten main cylinder
head bolts by half a turn at a time, until all
bolts can be unscrewed by hand,
7 Lift out the cylinder head bolts and where
applicable recover the washers.
8 Lift the cylinder head away; seek assistance
if possible, as it is a heavy assembly
9 Remove the gasket, noting the locating
dowels fitted to the top of the cylinder block.
If they are a loose fit, remove the locating
dowels and store them with the head for
safe-keeping.
Caution: Do not iay the head on its lower
mating surface; support the head on
wooden blocks as it may be damaged if the
head is placed directly onto a bench.
10 If the cyiinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, then refer to Part E of this Chapter,
Preparation
for
refitting
10.17a Check the dowels are in position to
locate the cylinder head gasket . . .
bolt tightening torque can be applied and
to prevent the possibility of the block being
cracked by hydraulic pressure when the bolts
are tightened.
14 The cylinder head bolts must be discarded
and renewed, regardless of their apparent
condition.
15 It warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part E of this
Chapter if necessary.
Refitting
16 Using a tap, clean out the thread in the
four bolt holes at the timing chain end of the
cylinder block (see illustration). Wipe clean
the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase.
17 Check that the locating dowels are in
position then fH the new gasket to the cylinder
block (see Illustrations).
10.17b . . . ensunng the gasket is fitted
with Its OBEN/TOP marking uppermost
18 Ensure the crankshaft is positioned
approx 60° BTDC (this is to prevent any
damage lo the valves or pistons when refitting
the cylinder head).
19 With the aid of an assistant, carefully
refit the cylinder head assembly lo the block,
aligning il with the locating dowels.
20 Apply a smear of oil to the threads and
the underside of the heads ot the new cylinder
head bolts and carefully enter each bolt into
its relevant hole [do not drop them in). Screw
all bolts in, by hand only, until finger-tight,
21 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head
bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using
a torque wrench and suitable socket (aao
lllusb^atlon).
22 Once all bolts have been lightened to the
Stage 1 torque, working again in the specified
sequence, go around and tighten all bolts
through the specified J
"
11 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
dean before refitting the head. Use a hanJ
plastic or wood scraper to remove ali traces
of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston
crowns. Take particular care, as the surfaces
are damaged easily. Also, make sure that
the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and
water passages - this is particularly Important
for the lubrication system, as carbon could
block the oil supply to any ot the engine's
components. Using adhesive tape and paper,
seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder
block/crankcase. To prevent carbon entering
ttie gap between the pistons and bores, smear
a little grease in the gap. After cleaning each
piston, use a small brush to remove all traces
of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe
away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean ali
the pistons in the same way.
12 Check the mating surfaces ot the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, tnev may be removed carefully with a
tile, nut It excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal (see your local
specialist for machining).
13 Ensure that the cylinder head bolt holes
m the cranKcase are clean and free of oil.
Syringe or soak up any oil left in the bolt holes.
Tills is most important in onJer that the correct
10.21 Cylinder head bolt
10.22 Tightening the cylinder head down
through Its stages, using an angle gauge
recommended that an angle-measuring gauge
is used to ensure accuracy (see iflustrationj.
If a gauge is not available, use white paint to
maKe alignment marks prior to tightening; the
marie seen, use
torque setting.
a suitable marker pen and mark the surface
12.7b . . . the outer rotor-to-oil pump
housing . . .
13.3b . . . a n d withdraw the balance shaft
assembly
12.7c . . . a n d also usmg a
checkiha endfloat
c) Refit tfie pump cover tightening the cov
screws to the specified torque.
d) On completion prime the oil pump by
filling it with clean engine oil whilst
rotating the Inner rotor.
Refitting
13 Balance s h a f t removal and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the balance shaft timing chain and
sprackets as descnbed In Section 8,
2 If the balance stiaft sprockets are removed,
mark the shafts lo identify the intake shaft
from the exhaust shaft for refitting,
3 Undo the securing bolt from the balance
shaft retaining plate and slide the balance
shaft out from the cylinder block (see
illustrations).
Refitting
4 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tighten
the retaining plate bolts to their specified
torque.
5 Refit the balance shaft timing chain and
sprockets as descnbed in Section 8.
Right-iiand
(timing
chain
end)
1 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described
In Section 5.
2 Ustng a large flaf-bladed screwdriver, carefully lever the seal out trom the timing chain
3 Clean the seal housing and polish oft any
buns or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place,
4 Press/tap the new seal squarely into
position until it sits into the recess in the cover
(see Illustration). If necessary, a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal can be
used to tap the seal into position. Take great
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting
and ensure that the seal lips face inwards.
6 Wash off any traces of oil. then refit the
crankshaft pulley as described in Section 5,
Left-hand
(flywheei/drivepiate
end)
6 Remove the flyv/heel/driveplate as described
in Section 15.
7 Carefully punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in ttie oil seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each and pull on the screws with pliers
to extract the seal (see illustration).
8 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
buns or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail In the first place, tiote: Insulation
tape can be put around the crankshaft flange
to help fit the oil seal.
9 Ease the new seal into position on the end
of the crankshaft. Press the seal squarely into
position until it is flush wrth the bearing cap.
If necessary, a suitable tubular drift, such as
a socket, which bears only on the hare! outer
edge ol the seal can be used lo tap the seal
into position. Take great care not to damage
the seal lips during fitting and ensure that the
seaS. lips face inwands (see Illustration).
10 If insulation tape was used around the
crankshaft flange, remove It, taking care not
to damage the oil seal. Retit the flywheel as
described in Section 15.
15 Flywheei/drivepiate removai, inspection
and refitting
.
^
^
Note: New flywheei/drivepiate retaining bolts
wili be required on refitting.
Removal
Manual t r a n s m i s s i o n m o d e l s
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A then remove the clutch assembly
as described In Chapter 6.
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement
14.9 Carefully ease the oil s
of the crankshaft and tap/presi
squarely Into position
is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant
to move the engine/transmission unit backand-forth, or from side-to-side, while you
watch the mounting. While some free play is
to be expected even from new components,
excessive wear should beobvioi
free play is found, checit first that tt>e f i
are correctly secured, then renew any worn
components as described below.
to that shown (see Illustration) Alternatively,
bolt a strap between the flywheel and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Make alignment
marks between the flywheel and crankshaft
using paint or a suitable marker pen.
3 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
very heavy.
Automatic transmission models
Renewal
4 Remove the trar
Sion as described
Chapter 76 then remove the driveplate as
described In paragraphs 2 and 3.
15.2 Lock the
Inspection
5 On manual transmission models, examine
the flywheel for scoring of the clutch face. If
the clutch face is scored, the flywheel may be
surface-ground, but renewal is preferable.
S On automatic transmission models closely
examine the driveplate and ring gear teeth
for signs of wear or damage and check the
drivepiate surface for any signs of cracks.
7 If there is any doubt about the condition of
the flywheei/drivepiate, seek the advice of a
Vauxhall/Opel dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. They will be able to advise If it is
possible to recondition it or whether renewal
is necessary.
Refitting
n models
B Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft.
S Apply a drop of locking compound to each
of the new retaining bolt threads then offer up
the flywheel, if the original is being refitted,
align the marits made prior to removal. Screw
n Uie retaining bolts.
10 Lock the flywheel by the method used on
rwnoval, and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified Stage 1 torque setting then
angle-tighten the bolts through the specified
Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension
bar, and finally through the specified Stage 3
angle. It Is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy If
a gauge Is not available, use white paint to
make alignment marks between the bolt head
and flywheel prior to tightening; the marks can
men be used to check that the bolt has been
rotated through the conect angle,
11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6
then remove the locking tool, and refit the
transmission as described in Chapter 7A.
Automatic transmission models
12 Clean the mating suri^aces of the driveplate
and crankshaft and remove all traces of locking
compound from the driveplate retaining boli
threads.
13 Apply a drop of locking compound to each
of the new retaining twit threads then offer up
the driveplate, if the original is being refitted
align the marks made prior to removal. Screw
Ti the retaining bolts.
14 Lock the driveplate by the method used
on removal, and tighten the retaining bolts
to the specified Stage 1 tonque setting then
angle-tightOT the bolts through the specified
Stage 2 angle, usmg a socket and extension
bar. It is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
If a gauge is not available, use white paint to
make alignment marks tietween the bolt head
and flywheel prior to tightening: the marks can
then be used to check that the bolt has been
rotated through the correct angle,
15 Remove the locking tool and refit the
transmission as described in Chapter 7B,
16 Engine/fe-ansmission
mountings inspection and renewal
Inspection
1 If improved access is required, fimily apply
the handbrake, then jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vahicle support).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar. check
for wear in the mounting by carefully levering
against it to check for free play; where this
thK>ugh-bolt {A) and mounting bracket-to-
Note: Before slackening any of the engine
mounting bolts/nuts, the relative positions of
the mountings to their various brackets should
be marked to ensure correct alignment upon
refitting.
Front m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
5 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
mounting to the subframe bracket. Withdraw
the through-bolt (see Itluslration).
7 Undo the bolts securing the mounting
bracket to the transmission, then manoeuvre
the mounting and bracket out of position.
8 Check all components for signs of wear or
damage, and renew as necessary.
9 Locate the mounting in the subframe, refit
the through bolt and nut, then tighten the nut
finger-tight at tills stage.
10 Refit the mounting bracket to the transmission and tighten its bolts to the specified
tonque.
11 Tighten the through-bolt nut to the
specified torque then on completion, lower
the vehicie to the ground.
Rear m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
12 Apply the handbrake, then Jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
13 Undo the three nuts securing the exhaust
system front pipe to the catalytic converter,
taking care to support the flexible section.
Note: Angular movement in excess of 10'
can cause permanent damage to the flexible
section. Separate the flange joint and recover
the gasket.
14 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission and
16.14 Rear mounting/torque link
through-boIt (arrowed)
le Ifnk bracketto-subframe mounting bolt nuts (arrowed)
the through-bolt secuhng the mounting to the
bracket (see illustration).
16 Undo the nuts and remove the two bolts
secunng the mounting to the subframe (see
illustration). Manoeuvre the mounting and
bracket out from under the car
16 Refit the bracket to the transmission and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
17 Locate the new mounting in position.
Insert ttie bolts and tighten the bolt/nuts to the
specified torque.
18 Using a new gasket, refit the exhaust front
pipe flange joint to the catalytic converter and
tighten the three retaining nuts to the specified
torque. On completion, lower the vehicie to
the gnDund.
Right-hand mounting
19 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axie
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
20 Remove the air cleaner as descnbed in
Chapter 4A.
21 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder
head, and support the weight of the engine,
22 Mark the position of the three bolts
securing the mounting bracket to the engine
bracket and undo the bolts. Undo the two
bolts and one nut secunng the mounting to
the body and remove the mounting s
(see illustrations).
16.22a Rfghf-h
engine bracket bolts (anowed).
HI bracket r e t a i n ^ bolts
(amwed) - tfiesol model shown, petrol similar
23 Place the mounting assembly in position
and refit the two bolts and the nut secuhng
the mounting to the body. Tighten the bolts/
nut to the specified torque. Align the mounting
in its original position, then tighten the three
mounting bracket bolts to the specitied
torque.
24 Remove the hoist, then refit the air cleaner
as described in Chapter 4A,
25 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
gnaund.
Left-hand m o u n t i n g
26 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
27 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
retaining bolts (arrowed) - shown wrth
engine/transmission removed
to the engine lifting brackets on the cyiinder
head, and support the weight of the engine.
28 Using a Torx socket, unscrew the three
bolts securing the mounting bracket to the
transmission bracket (see illustration).
29 Undo the four bolts securing the mounting
to the body and the three bolts securing the
transmission bracket to the transmission (see
illustration). Remove the mounting assembly
from the car.
30 Locate the mounting brackets in position
then insert the bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
31 Disconnect the hoist and lifting tackle.
32 Refit the battery box and battery as
described In Chapter 5A.
Chapter 2 PartC:
1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine
in-car repair procedures
Contents
Section number
Camshaft and followers - removal, inspection and refitting
11
Camshaft cover - removal and refitting
5
Camshaft oil seal - renewal
9
Compression and leakdown tests-description and interpretation.. 2
Crankstiaft oil seals - renewal
16
Crankshaft pulleyAnbration damper - removal and refitting
6
Cylinder head-removal and refitting
12
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal
18
Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting
17
General information
1
Section number
Oil filter housing-removal and refitting
Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting
Sump - removal and refitting
Timing belt - removal and refitting
,
Timing belt sprockets, tensioner and idler pulley - removal and
refining
Top dead centre fTDC) for No 1 piston - locating
Valve clearances-checking and adjustment
Valve timing - checking and adjustment
Degrees of difficulty
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner with
experience
^
^
^
FaMytmcmt,
|
' Difficult, suitable
suitable for competent 3
¿ ^ 1 Very difficult,
3C I DIY or pnafesslona! •
j for experienced DIY 5; I suitable f o r e
Specifications
General
Bigine type
Four-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled. Single overhead camshaft,
belt-driven
toiufacturer's engine code'
Zl 9DT
Bore
82.0 mm
Sroke
90.4 mm
Capacity
1910 cc
Compression ratio
18.0:1
Bring orcler
1 -3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Ifcectlon of crankshaft rotation
Clockwise (viewed from timing belt end of engine)
'For details of engine code location, see 'Vefiicie identification'in ttie Reference Ctiapter.
Compression pressures
Maximum difference tietween any two cylinders
1.5 bar
i m v e clearances
tigine cold (inlet and exhaust)
|jid}rication system
l i r i m u m oil pressure at 10CC
O i pump type
0.30 lo 0.40 mm
1.0 bar at Idle speed
Rotor-type, driven by crankshaft pulley/vibraflon damper from
crankshaft
15
14
13
7
8
3
10
4
Torque w r e n c h settings
Air conditioning compressor mounting bracleanng cap twits
Camshaft cover bolts
Camshaft sprocket bolf
Connecting rod big-end bearing cap bolt:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Crankshaft oil seal housing
Crankshaft pulleyAiibration damper bolts
Cranksiiaft sprocket b o l f t
Cylinder head bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Stage 5
Engine mountings:
Fnjnt mounting/torque link;
Mounting to transmission
Mounting to subframe
Left-hand mounting;
Mounting-to-body bolts
Mounting bracket to transmission bracket
Transmission bracket to transmission
Rear mounting/torque link:
Mounting bracket to transmission
Mounting to subframe
Mounting to transmission bracket
Right-hand mounting;
Engine bracket-to-engine bolts:
Lower bolts (M8)
Upperbolts(MIO)
Mounting-to-body bolts/nut
Mounting-to-engine bracket bolts
Engine-to-transmission unit bolts:
Ml 0 bolts
Ml 2 bolts
Flywheel boltsHigh-pressure fuel pump sprocket nutIntermediate shaft bearing housing support bracket bolts
Main bearing cap bolts;*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Oil fiHer housing to cylinder block
Oil pump housing to cylinder block
Oil pump pick-up/strainer bolts
Roadwheel bolts
Sump bolts:
M6 bolts
M8 bolts
M10 bolts
Sump drain plug
Timing belt idler pulley bolt
Timing belt tensioner bolt
Timing belt upper cover bolts:
M6 bolts
MB bolts
• Use new nuts/batts
t Left-hand thread
Nm
50
50
50
15
10
120
ibfft
37
37
37
11
7
89
25
Angle-tighten a further 60°
9
25
340
7
18
251
18
20
65
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 90°
15
48
80
80
59
59
20
55
55
15
41
41
80
60
60
59
44
59
25
50
55
55
18
37
41
41
40
60
160
50
55
30
44
11B
37
41
25
Angle-tighten a further 100°
50
9
9
110
37
7
7
81
9
25
40
20
50
30
7
18
30
15
37
22
9
25
7
18
18
1
General i n f o r m a t i o n
H o w to use this
Chapter
Ttiis Part of Chapter 2 describes the
repair procedures which can reasonably be
canied out on the engine while it remains in
the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
torn the vehicle and is being dismantled as
described in Chapter 2E, any preliminary
deniantling pnDcedures can be Ignored.
Note that, while it may be possible
physically to overhaul items such as the
piston/connecting rod assemblies while the
engine Is in the vehicle, such tasks are not
usually carried out as separate operations,
and usually require the execution of several
additional procedures (not to mention the
cleaning of components and of oilways); for
ttils reason, all such tasks are classed as
m^or oveitiaul procedures, and are described
•1 Chapter 2E,
Chapter 2E describes the removal of the
oiglne/transmission unit from the vehicle, and
ttie full overhaul prcicedures which can then
be carried out.
Engine
description
The 1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine is of
9» eight-valve, in-line four-cylinder, single
wethead camshaft type, mounted transversely
at the front of the car, with the transmission on
left-hand end.
The crankshaft is supported within the
cyinder block on five shell-type main 1
Thrustwashers are fitted to number 3
bearing, to control crankshaft endfloat.
The c o n n e c t i n g rods r o t a t e on
fcorizontally-split
bearing shells at their
iig-ends. The pistons are attached to the
connecting rods by gudgeon pins, which
s e retained by circlips. The aluminium-alloy
petons are fitted with three piston rings • K ) compression rings and scraper-type oil
control ring.
Ttie camshaft mns directly in the cylinder
head, and is driven by the crankshaft via a
torthed composite robber timing belt (which
^
drives the high-pressure fuel pump and
• t e coolant pump). The camshaft operates
aach valve via a camshaft follower with
«|ustment shim.
Lubrication is by pressure-feed from a
nbir-type oil pump, which is mounted on the
•ght-hand end of the crankshaft. The pump
draws oil through a strainer located in the
»*np, and then foroes it through an externally
•wonted full-flow cartridge-type filter. The
e i flows into galleries in the cylinder block/
cankcase, from where it is distributed to the
oankshaft (main bearings) and camshaft.
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via
internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the
supply. The camshaft k
lubricated by splash, as are all other engine
components.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed; crankcase fumes are drawn from
the oil separator (integral with the camshaft
cover), and passed via a hose to the inlet
manifold.
Operations
with
engine
in
car
The following operations can be carried out
without having to remove the engine from the
a) Removal and refitting of the camshaft
b) Adjustment of the vatve clearances.
c) Removal and refitting of the cylinder
d) Removal and refitting of the timing belt,
tensioner. idler pulleys and sprocle worthwhile buying such a tester
for occasional use, but it may be possible
to borrow or hire one - if not, have the test
performed by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer, or
suitably-equipped garage. If the necessary
equipment is available, proceed as follows.
3 Remove the fuel injectors as described in
Chapter 4B.
4 Screw the compression tester adapter In to
tfie fuel injector hole of No 1 cylinder.
5 With the help of an assistant, crank the
engine on the starter motor; after one or
two revolutions, the compression pressure
should build-up to a maximum figure, and
then stabilise. Record the highest reading
obtained.
6 R^eat the test on the remaining cylinders,
reconding the pressure In each.
7 All cylindere should produce very similar
pressures; any difference greater than the
maximum figure given in the Specifications
indicates the existence of a fault. Note that
the compression should build-up quickly in
a healthy engine; low compression on the
first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which does not build-up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head
could also be the cause). Note: TTie cause of
poor compression is less easy to estabiidi
on a diesel engine than on a petrol one. The
effect of introducing oil into the cylinders
('wet' testing) is not conclusive, because there
is a risk that the oil wiii sit in the recess on the
piston crown instead ofpas^ng to the rings,
8 On completion of the test, refit the fuel
injectors as described in Chapter 4B.
Lealfdown
test
9 A leakdown test measures the rate at which
compressed air fed into the cylinder is lost. It
is an alternative to a compression test, and in
many ways it is better, since the escaping air
provides easy identification of where pressure
loss is occurring (piston rings, valves or head
gasket).
10 The equipment needed for leakdown
testing is unlikely to be available to the home
mechanic. If poor compression Is suspected,
have the test performed by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer, or suitably-equipped garage.
3
Top d e a d centre
(TDC) for No 1 p i s t o n iocating
I
Note: To accurately determine the TDC
position for No 1 piston, it will be necessary
to use Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46788 (or
suitable equivalents) to set the crankshaft at
the TDC position (see illustration}.
1 In its travel up and down its cylinder bore.
Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
that each piston reaches as the crankshaft
rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both
at the top of the compression stroke and
again at the top of the exhaust stroke, for the
purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to
the piston position of No 1 cylinder at the top
of its compression stroke.
2 Number 1 piston (and cylinder) is at the
3.0 Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46788
(or equivalent) is required to set the TDC
position for No 1 piston
3.3c . . . release the hose support clip
right-hand (timing bell) end of the engine, and
its TDC position is located as follows. Note
that the craniolt and allow the tensioner to retract, relieving
the tension on the timing belt.
6 Slide the timing belt from its sprockets and
remove it from the engine. If the belt is to be
re-used, use white paint or similar to mark the
direction ol rotation on the belt. Do not rotate
the crankshaft or camshafts until the timing
belt has been refitted.
7 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs
of uneven wear, splitting or oil contamination,
and renew if if there is the slightest doubt
about its condition. If the engine Is undergoing
an overhaul and is approaching the specified
interval for belt renewal (see Chapter IB)
renew the belt as a matter of course,
regardless of its apparent condition. If signs of
oil contamination are found, trace the source
of the oil leak and rectify it, then wash down
the engine timing belt area and all related
components to remove all traces of oil.
Remting
8 On reassembly, thoroughly clean the timing
t>eit spnsckets and tensioner/idler pulleys.
9 Place the timing belt In position over the
crankshaft sprocket. If the original belt is being
refitted, ensure that the arrow mark made
on removal points in the normal direction of
rotation, as before.
10 Check that the camshaft and crankshaft are
still conectly positroned with No 1 piston at TDC
on compresskin as described in Section 3, and
refit the crankshaft positioning tool.
11 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft,
camshaft and fuel pump sprockets and
around the idler pulleys, ensuring that the belt
front mn is taut (ie, all slack is on the tensioner
side of the belt), then fit the belt over the
coolant pump sprocket and tensioner pulley.
Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it.
Ensure that the belt teeth are conectiy seated
c«itrally in the sprockets, and that the timing
mark on the camshaft sprocket remain in
alignment.
12 Screw in a suitable bolt, approximately
50 mm in length, into the threaded hole
directly below the timing belt tensioner. Using
a screwdriver resting on the bolt as a pivot,
move the adjusting lever on the tensioner until
the tensioner pointer is aligned with the mark
on the backplate. Hold the tensioner in this
position and tighten the tensioner retaining
bolt (see illustrations).
7.12a Using a screwdriver resting on a
pivot bolt (aiTOwed), move the adjusting
lever on the tensioner . . .
7.12b . . . until the tensioner pointer
(anowed) is aligned with the mark on the
backplate
again rotate the crani^shaft smoothly through
two complete turns (720°) in the normal
direction of rotation. Check that the timing belt
tensioner pointer is still aligned with the mark
on the backplate. If not, repeat the procedure
described in paragraph 16.
18 When all is conect, remove the tensioner
position pivot bolt. Refit the bolf removed
from the oil pump housing and tighten it to the
specified torque.
19 Place the engine bracket in position and
refit the two lower bolts, and the three upper
bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Refit the auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley to the
engine bracket and tighten the retaining bolf
to the specified torque.
20 Refit the upper timing belt cover and
tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque. Clip the wiring harness back into
position.
21 Place the right-hand engine mounting
assembly in position and refit the two bolts
and tfie nut securing the mounting to the tmdy
Tighten the bolts/nut to the specified torque.
Align the mounting in its original position, then
tighten the three mounting bracket bolts to the
specified torque. Remove the jack from under
the engine,
22 Refit the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4B.
23 Place the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner
assembly in position ensuring that the locating
peg on the tensioner mounting surface
engages correctly with the corresponding hole
in the mounting bracket. Tighten the tensioner
central mounting bolt to the specified torque.
24 Refit the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 6, thenrefitthe
auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1B.
25 Refit the plastic cover to the top of the
engine and tighten the retaining bolts.
26 Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray,
then lower the car to the ground and tighten
the vrtieel bolts fo the specified torque.
17 Remove all the positioning tools and
T i m i n g belt Sprockets,
tensioner and idier pulley removal and refitting
;S
Note: Certain special toois will be required
for the removal and refitting of the sprockets.
Read through the entire procedure to
familiarise yourself with the wodr involved,
then either obtain the manufacturer's special
tools, or use the alternatives described.
13 Remove the crankshaft positioning tool.
14 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket
bolt, rotate the crankshaft smoothly through
two complete turns (720°) in the normal
direction of rotation to settle the timing belt in
position. At the end of the second turn, align
the mark on the camshaft sprocket with the
pointer on the camshaft cover
15 Refit the positioning ring of tool EN-46788
over the fastening stud and engage it with the
crankshaft sprocket. Ensure that the hole in
t i e positioning ring engages with the lug on
t i e sprocket. Secure the tool in position with
t i e retaining bolt and nut.
16 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining
bolt and, using a screwdriver resting on i
prvot bolt as before, move the adjusting le'
on the tensioner until the tensioner poln .
is once again aligned with the mari( on 1
backplate. Hold the tensioner in this positi
» K l tighten the tensioner retaining bolt to the
^jeclfied torque,
8
Camshaft
sprocket
Note: A new sprocket retaining bolt will be
required for refitting.
Removal
To mukt' .1 spruckel holding tool, obtain
two lengths of steei strip about 6 mm
thick by about 30 mm wide or similar,
one 600 mm long, the other 200 mm
long (all dimensions are approximate).
Bolt the two strips together to form a
forked end, leaving the bolt slack so
that the shorter strip can pivot freely.
At the other end of each 'prang- of the
fork, dnil a suitable hole and fit a nut
and bolt to allow the tool to engage
mth the spokes in the sprocket
•-•L-.. .
1 Remove the timing belt as descnbed in
Section 7.
2 It will now be necessary to hold the
camshaft sprocket to enable the retaining bolt
to be removed. Vauxhall/Opel special tools
EN-46787 and KM-956-1 are available for
this purpose, however, a home-made tool can
easily be fabricated (see Tool Tip).
3 Engage the tool with the holes in the
Tishaft sprocket, taking care not to damage
5 camshaft sensor located behind the
sprocket
4 Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove the
sprocket from the end of the camshaft.
8.18 Engage the holding tool with the
holes In ttto fuel pump sprocket and undo
the retaining nut
8.12a Remove the bolt and
Refitting
5 Prior to refitting cheok tbe oil seal for signs
ot damage or leakage. If necessary, renew as
described in Section 9.
6 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft end,
aligning its cut-out with the locating peg, and
flt the new retaining bolt.
7 Retain the sprocket using the holding tool,
and tighten the retaining tx>lt to the specified
torque.
S Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7.
Crankshaft
sprocket
Note 1: The crankshaft sprocket retaining
bolt is extremely tight. Ensure that the holding
tool used to prevent rotation as the bolt
is slackened is of sturdy constniction and
securely attached.
Note 2: A new sprocket retaining txiit will be
required for refitting.
Removal
9 Remove the timing belt as descnbed in
Section 7.
10 It will now be necessary to hold the
crankshaft sprocket to enable the retaining
bolt to be removed. Vauxhail special tools
EN-47630 and KM-956-1 are available for this
purpose, however, a home-made tool similar
to that described in paragraph 2 can easily be
fabricated.
11 Using the crankshaft pulley retaining bolts,
securely attach the tool to the crankshaft
sprocket. Vi/ith the help of an assistant, hold
8.19 Use a suitable pullerto release the
fuel pump sprocket taper
the sprocket stationary and
retaining bolt. Note: The sprocket retaining
bolt has a left-hand thread and is unscrewed
by turning it clockwise.
12 Remove the bolt and washer and slide the
sprocket off the end ot the crankshaft (see
Illustrations). Note that a new boh will be
required for refitting.
Refitting
13 Align the sprocket location key with the
crankshaft groove and slide the sprocket
into position. Fit the new retaining bolt and
washer
14 Hold the sprocket stationary using the
holding tool and tighten the retaining bolt to
the specified torque. Remove the holding
tool.
High-pressure
pump
sprocket
Note: A new sprocket retaining nut will be
required for refitting.
Removal
16 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
17 it will now be necessary to hold the fuel
pump sprocket to enable the retaining nut to
be removed. Vauxhail special tools KM-6347
and KM-956-1 are available for this purpose,
however, a home-made tool similar to that
descnbed in paragraph 2 can easily be
fabricated,
18 Engage the tool with the holes in the
S.20a Once the ta
fuel pump sprocket and undo the sprocket
retaining nut (see Illustration). Note that a
new nut wili be required for refitting,
19 Attach a suitable puller to the threaded
holes in the fuel pump sprocket using bolts
and washers similar to the arrangement shown
(see illustration).
20 Tighten the puller centre bolt to release
the sprocket from the taper on the pump shafL
Once the taper releases, remove the puller and
withdraw the sprocket. Collect the Woodnitf
key from the pump shaft (see Illustrations).
Refitting
21 Clean the fuel pump shaft and the
sprocket hub ensuring that all traces of oil or
grease are removed.
22 Refit the Woodroff key to the pump shaft,
then locate the sprocket in position. Fit the
new retaining nut.
23 Hold the sprocket stationary using the
holding tool and tighten the retaining nut to
the specified torque. Remove the holding
tool.
24 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7.
Tensioner
assembly
Removal
25 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
26 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt
and remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine (see Illustration).
collect ttie Woodruff key
from the pump shaft
Refitting
27 Fit ttie tensioner to ttie engine, maled in
Section 8.
10 Valve c l e a r a r t c e s checking and adjustment
8.2G Slacken and remove the retaining
bolt and remove the timing belt tensioner
assembly
the right-hand front roadwheel, then undo the
ten bolts and remove the engine undertray for
access to the crankshaft pulley
3 Remove the camshaft cover as described in
Section 5.
4 Using a socket and extension on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft
in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise
when viewed from the right-hand end of
the engine) until camshaft lobes 1 and 6 are
pointing upward (see Illustration).
5 On a piece of paper, draw the outline Of
the engine with the cylinders numbered fram
the timing belt end. Show the position of
each valve, together with the specified valve
clearance. Note that the clearance for both
the inlet and exhaust valves Is the same.
6 With the cam lobes positioned 3s d«icribed
Ing feeler blades, measure
1 between the base of camshaft
lobes 1 and 6 and the adjustment shim
located on the top of the camshaft follower
{see illustration). Record the clearances on
the paper
7 Rotate the crankshaft until camshaft lobes 5
and 8 are pointing upward. Measure the
clearance between the base of the camshaft
loties and the shims on their followers and
recond the clearances on the paper
8 Rotate the crankshaft until camshaft lobes
4 and 7 are pointing upward. Measure the
clearance between the base of the camshaft
tobes and the shims on their followers and
record the clearances on the paper.
9 Rotate the crankshaft until camshaft lobes 2
and 3 are pointing upward. Measure the
clearance between the base of the camshaft
8.27 The slot on the tensioner backplate
must locate over tho peg (arrowed) on the
engine bracket
lobes and the shims on their followers and
record the clearances on the paper.
10 If all the clearances are conect, refit the
camshaft cover as described in Section 5 .
Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray,
then lower the car to the ground and tighten
the wheel bolts to the specified tonjue.
11 If any clearance measured is not correct,
adjustment must be carried out as described
in the following paragraphs.
Adjustment
12 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
camshaft lobes 1 and 6 are once again
pointing upward. With the camshaft In this
position, valve No 1 and valve No 6 can be
adjusted as follows.
13 Rotate Ihe follower until the groove on its
upper edge is facing towands the front of the
engine (see illustration).
14 Insert Vauxhall/Opel special toot EN-4(i797
Note: VauxhaUIOpeS special tools EN-46797
and EN-46799 (or suitable equivalents) will tie
required If adjustment is necessary.
Checking
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be
overstressed, as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. The engine must
be cold for the check to be accurate. The
clearances are checked as follows.
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
WJS Va\ve clearance measurement
10.13 Rotate the follower until the groove
(arrowed) is facing towards the front of the
ithin Iii lits.
It may be possible to correct
the clearances by moving
tlie shims around between
the valves, but don't rotate
the crankshaft wid> any shims missing.
Keep a note of all the shim thicknesses
to assist valve clearance
adjustment
when they need to be done again.
10.16 The thickness of each shim should
be stamped on one of its surfaces
between the base of the camshaft lobe and
the shim and lever downward to open the
valve. Now insert Vauxhall/Opel special tool
EN-46799 between the edge of the follower
and the base of the camshaft to hold the
valve open. Take care when doing this as it is
possible for the vaive to contact the piston. II
any resistance is felt as the valve is opened,
remove the tool and rotate the crankshaft
slightly to move the piston down its bore.
15 Using a small screwdriver inserted in the
groove on the edge of the follower, lilt up
the shim, then slide it out from between the
follower and camshaft.
16 Clean the shim, and measure its thickness
with a micrameter. The shims cany thickness
markings, but wear may have reduced the
original thickness, so be sure to double-check
(see Illustration).
17 Add the measured clearance ol the valve
to the thickness of the original shim then
subtract the specified vaive clearance from
this figure. Tbis will give you the thickness of
the shim required. For example:
Measured valve clearance
0.45 mm
Plus thicKness of tne original sri/m 2.70 mm
Equals
3.15 mm
Minus clearance required
0.40 mm
mckness of stiim required
2.76 mm
18 Obtain the correct thickness ot shim
required and lubricate it with clean engine oil.
With the valve still held open with the special
tool, slide the shim into position, with the
thickness number downwards, ensuring it is
correctly located,
19 Using the first special tool, lever down on
the shim and remove the second special tool.
1 1 ^ Camshaft brarlng cap retaining boKs
(arrowed)
20 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
camshaft lotjes 5 and 8 are once again pointing
upward. Adjust No 5 and No 8 vaive clearances
as described in paragraphs 13 to 19.
21 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
camshaft lobes 4 and 7 are once again pointing
upwanJ. Adjust No 4 and No 7 valve clearances
as described in paragraphs 13 to 19.
22 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
camshaft lobes 2 and 3 are once again pointing
upward. Adjust No 2 and No 3 valve clearances
as desoritied in paragraphs 13 to 19.
23 On completion, refit the camshaft cover
as described in Section 5, Refit the roadwheel
and engine undertray, then lower the car to
the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the
specified torque.
11 C a m s h a f t a n d f o l l o w e r s removal, inspection
and refitting
3^
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
2 Removethecamshaftsprocketasdescribed
in Section 8.
3 Remove the camshaft cover as described in
Section 5.
4 Remove the braking system vacuum pump
as described in Chapter 9.
5 Check for identification markings on the
camshaft bearing caps. If no mannings can be
seen, make suitable identification marks on
the caps, to indicate Iheir number and which
way round they are fitted,
6 Working in a spiral pattern from the outside
11.7 Carefuify release the oil pipe (anowed)
from Its location In the cylinder head
inwards, slacken the twelve camshaft tiearing
cap retaining bolts by half a turn at a time, to
relieve the pressure of the valve springs on
the bearing caps gradually and evenly (see
illustration). Once the valve spring pressure
has been relieved, the bolts can be fully
d and
Caution: If the bearing cap bolts are
careiessfy slackened, the bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assemMf
must be renewed; the bearing caps arm
matched to the head and are not available
separately.
7 Carefully release the oil supply pipe from its
location in the cylinder head, then lift the pipe
oft the bearing caps (see illustration),
8 Remove the bearing caps, then lift the
camshaft out of the cylinder head and slide off
the oil seal,
9 Obtain eight small, clean plastic containers,
and label them for identification. Alternatively;
divide a larger container into compartments.
Lift the followers and shims out from the top
of the cylinder head and store each one in
its respective fitted position. Make sure the
followers and shims are not mixed up, to
ensure the valve ciearances remain correct on
refitting.
Inspection
10 Examine the camshaft bearing surtaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine thecondltion
ot the bearing surtaces both on the camshaft
journals and in the cyiinder head. If the head
bearing surfaces are worn excessively, the
cylinder head will need to be renewed,
11 Check the camshaft followers and their
bores in the cyiinder head for signs of wear or
damage. If any follower is thought to be faulty
or is visibly worn it should be renewed.
Refitting
12 Commence refitting by turning the
crankshaft anti-clockwise by 90°. This will
position all the pistons half-way down their
bores, and prevent any chance of the valves
touching the piston crowns as the camshaft is
being fitted,
13 Lubricate the camshaft followers with
clean engine oil and carefully insert each
one (together with its adjusting shim) into its
original location in the cylinder head.
14 Lubricate the camshaft follower shims,
and the bearing journals with clean engine oil,
then lay Ihe camshaft in position.
15 Apply a smear of sealant to the mating
surfaces of both the Mo 1 and No 5 camshaft
bearing caps. Using the marks made on
removai as a guide, refit the camshaft bearing
caps in their original locations on the cylinder
head.
16 Carefully engage the oil supply pipe into
its location in the cylinder head, then place
the pipe in position on the bearing caps,
17 Refit the bearing cap retaining bolts and
tighten them by hand until they just contact
the bearing caps,
18 Working in a spiral pattern from the centre
outwards, tighten the bolts by half a tjrn at a
time to gradually impose the pressure of the
valve springs on the bearing caps. Repeat this
sequence until all bearing caps are in contact
with the cylinder head then go around and
tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts to the
specified tongue.
Caution: If the beanng cap bolts are
carelessly tightened, the bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assembly
must be renewed; the bearing caps are
matched to the head and are not available
separately.
19 Fit a new camshah oil seal as described in
Section 9.
20 Refit the braiding system vacuum pump as
descritjed in Chapter 9,
21 Refit the camshaft cover as descnbed in
Section 5.
22 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section 8, Rotate the camshaft until the mark on
the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the pointer
on the camshaft cover (see Section 3).
23 Turn the crankshaft clockwise by 90° to
bring No 1 and 4 pistons to approximately the
TDC posltion24 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
25 If any new components have been fitted.
12 Cylinder h e a d removal and refitting
Note: New cylinder head bolts wili be required
on refitting.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
3 Remove the timing beh as described in
Section 7,
4 Disconnect the wiring harness connectors
from the following components with reference
to the Chapters indicated:
aj Coolant temperature sensor (Chapter 3).
bl Fuel pressure sensor (Chapter 4B).
c) Fuel pressure regulating valve (Chapter 4Bj.
d) Throttle housing (Chapter 4B).
e) Fuel injectors (Chapter 4B).
f) Air conditioning compressor (Chapter 3).
gl EGR valve (Chapter 4C).
h) Charge (boost) pressure sensor (Chapter 4B).
1) High-pressure fuel pump (Chapter 4B).
j) Camshaft sensor (Chapter 4B).
6 Undo the wiring harness support bracket
bolts, release the retaining clips and move the
harness to one side (see illustration).
6 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described in Chapter 48.
7 Remove the camshaft cover as descritjed in
Section 5,
8 Remove the braking system vacuum pump
as described in Chapter 9,
9 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected,
10 Worthing in the reverse of the tightening
sequence (see i l l u s t r a t i o n 12.28),
progressively slacken the cylinder head tiolts
by half a tum at a time, until all bolts can be
unscrewed by hand. Note that an M14 RIBE
socket bit will be required to unscrew the
bolts. Remove the cylinder head bolts and
recover the washers,
11 Engage the help of an assistant and lift the
cylinder head from the cylinder block. Take
care as it is a bulky and heavy assembly
Caution: Do not lay the head on its lower
mating surface; support the head on
wooden blocks, ensuring each block only
contacts the head mating surface,
12 Remove the gasket and keep it for
Identification purposes (see paragraph 19].
13 if the oyiinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, then refer to Part E of this C h ^ e r
Preparation
for
refitting
14 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastk:
or wood scraper to remove all traces ot gasket
and cariX)n; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care, as the surtaces are damaged
easily. Also, make sure that the cartxin is not
allowed to enter the oil and water passages this is particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply to
any ofthe engine's components. Using adhesive
tape and paper seal the water oil and bolt holes
in the oyiinder block/crankcase. To prevent
carbon entering the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little grease in the gap.
After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to
remove all traces of grease and carbon from the
gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean
rag. Clean all Ihe pistons in the same way.
15 Check the mating surtaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal.
16 Ensure that the cylinder head bolt holes
in the crankcase are clean and free of oil.
Syringe or soak up any oil left In the bolt holes.
This is most important in onier that the conect
bolt tightening torque can be applied and
to prevent the possibility of the biock being
cracked by hydraulic pressure when the bolts
are tightened.
17 T>ie cylinder head bolts must be discarded
and renewed, regardless of their apparent
condition.
12.5 Undo the support bracket bolts
(arrowed), release the retaining d i p s and
move the wiring harness to one skJe
18 If warpage of the cyiinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part E of this
Chapter if necessary.
19 On this engine, the cylinder head-topiston clearance is controlled by fitting
different thickness head gaskets. The gasket
thickness can be detemiined by looking at the
holes stamped on the edge of the gasket (see
illustration).
Number of holes
Gasket thickness
No holes
0.77 to 0-87 n
One hole
0.87 to 0.97 n
Two holes
0.97 to 1,07 n
The correct thickness of gasket required is
selected by measuring the piston pnstmsions
as follows.
20 Mount a dial test indicator securely on the
block so that its pointer can be easily pivoted
between the piston crown and block mating
surface. Turn the crankshaft to bring No 1 piston
roughly to the TDC position. Move the dial test
indicator pnobe over and in contact with No 1
piston. Turn the crankshaft back and forth
slightly until the highest readir>g is showm on the
gauge, indicating that the piston is at T l X .
21 Zero the dial test indicator on the gasket
surface of the cylinder block then carefully
move the indicator over No 1 piston. Measure
its protrusion at the highest point between the
valve cut-outs, and then again at its highest
point between fhe vaive cut-outs at 90° to the
first measurement (see Illustration). Repeat
this procedure with No 4 piston,
22 Rotate the crankshaft half a turn (180°)
to bring No 2 and 3 pistons to TDC- Ensure
12,19 Cylinder head gasket thickness
identification hole (arrowed)
13 S u m p removal and refitting
12.21 Using a dial test indicator to
measure piston protrusion
the crankstiaft is accurately positioned then
measure the protmsions of No 2 and 3 pistons
at the specified points. Once all pistons have
been measured, rotate the crankshaft to
position all the pistons at their mid-strc>ke.
23 Select the correct thickness of head
gasket required by determining the largest
amount of piston protrusion, and using the
following table.
Piston protmslon Gasket thickness
im) required (mm)
0.020 to 0.100
0.77 to 0.87 (no holes)
0.101 too 200
0.87 to 0.97 (one hole)
0.201 to 0.Z95
0.97 to 1.07 (two holes)
Rentting
24 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Place the new gasket in position with the wonjs
ALTO/TOP uppermost (see illustration).
25 If not already done, rotate the crankshaft
to position all the pistons at their mid-stnake.
26 With the aid of an assistant, carefully
rem the cylinder head assembly to the block,
aligning it with the locating dowels,
27 Apply a thin film of engine oil to the boH
threads and the underside of the bolt heads.
Carefully enter each new cylinder head
bolt into its relevant hole (do not drop them
in). Screw all bolts in. by hand only, until
finger-tight.
12.24 Place the new gasket In position
with the words ALTO/TOP uppermost
28 Working progressively in the sequence
shown, tighten the cylinder head bolts to their
Stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench
and suitable socket (see illustration). Working
again in the same sequence, go around and
tighten all bolts through the specified Stage 2
torque setting.
29 Once all bolts have been tightened to the
Stage 2 tonque, working again in the same
sequence, go around and tighten all bolts
through the specified Stage 3 angle, then
through the specified Stage 4 angle, and finally
through the specified Stage 5 angle using an
angle-measuring gauge.
30 Refit the braking system vacuum pump as
described in Chapter 9.
31 Refit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 5.
32 Refit the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described in C h ^ t e r 4 B .
33 Reconnect the wiring harness connectors
to the components listed in paragraph 4, then
refit the wiring harness support bracket bolts,
and secure the harness with the retaining
clips.
34 Refit the timing belt as described In
Section 7.
35 On completion, reconnect tbe battery
negative terminal, then refill the cooling
system as described in Chapter 1B.
12.28 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecf/ng the battery m the
Reference Chapter).
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel, then undo the
ten bolts and remove the engine undertray
3 Remove fhe right-hand driveshaft and fhe
intermediate shaft as described in Chapter 8.
4 Undo the three bolts securing the
Intermediate shaft bearing housing support
bracket to the cylinder block and remove the
support bracket (see illustraticm).
5 Remove the exhaust system a
in Chapter 4B.
6 Undo the three bolts and remove the
support bracket from the catalytic converter
and sump.
7 Remove the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 6.
8 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
air conditioning compressor. Undo the three
bolts securing the air conditioning compressor
to the mounting bracket and suitably support
the compressor on the front subframe.
9 Undo the four bolts securing the
compressor mounting bracket to the cylinder
block and sump (see illustration}. Unclip
the wiring harness and remove the mounting
bracket.
10 Drain the engine oil as described In
Chapter I B . When the oil has completely
drained, refit the drain plug with new sealing
washer, and tighten to the specified tongue.
11 Undo the upper bolt securing the oil
dipstick guide tube to the coolant pipe. Undo
the lower boH securing the guide tube to tho
sump flange, then unclip the wiring fiarnesa
13.4 intermediate shaft bearing housing support bracket retaining!
bolls (anvwed)
and withdraw the tube from the sump flange
sealing grommet.
12 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
oil level sensor, then release the retaining clip
and disconnect the oil return hose.
13 Undo the two bolts securing the sump
flange to the transmission bellhousing.
14 Using a socket and extension on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft
in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise
when viewed from the right-hand end ol the
engine) until the opening in the flywheel is
positioned to ailow access to one of the rear
sump retaining bolts. Undo and remove the
bolt, then rotate the crankshaft again until
the flywheel allow access to the second rear
retaining bolt. Undo and remove the bolt.
15 Progressively slacken and remove the
remaining twelve bolts secunng the sump to
the base of the cylinder block and oil pump
housing. Using a wide-bladed scraper or
similar tool Inserted between the sump and
cylinder block, carefully break the joint to
release the sump.
16 Manoeuvre the sump out from under the
car Clearance is extremely limited between
the sump and subframe, and it may be
necessary to release the oil pump picK-up/
strainer, by undoing its two retaining bolts, to
enable the sump to be removed.
17 If required, undo the retaining bolts and
remove the oil baffle plate fnsm inside the
sump (see Illustration).
18 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to check the oil pump pick-up/
strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If not
already done, unbolt the oil pump pick-up/
strainer and remove it from the engine along
with its sealing ring. The strainer can then be
cleaned easily In solvent or renewed. Renew
the pick-up/strainer sealing ring prior to
refitting (see Illustration).
13.17 Removing the oil baffle plate from
inside the sump
13.18 Renew the pick-up/strainer sealing
ring prior to refitting
If it was necessary to unbolt the pick-up/
strainer to allow the sump to be removed,
place the unit in position and loosely screw in
the boit secuhng it to the main bearing cap.
It must still be possible for the fonward end ol
the pipe to be moved to the rear as the sump
is refitted.
21 Apply a continuous bead of silicone sealing
compound (available fn^m your Vauxhall/Opel
dealer) al approximately 1.0 mm from the inner
edge of the sump (see illustration). The bead
of sealant should be between 2.0 and 2.5 mm
in diameter
22 Locate the sump over the pick-up/strainer
then, where applicable, fit the fonward end ot
the pick-up/strainer to the oil pump housing
and fit the retaining bolt. Tighten both retaining
bolts securely.
23 Engage the sump with the cylinder block
and loosely refit all the retaining bolts.
24 Working out fn^m the centre in a diagonal
sequence, progressively tighten the bolts
securing the sump to the cylinder block and
oil pump housing. Tighten all the bolts to their
specified torque setting,
25 Tighten the two t>olts securing the sump
flange lo the transmission bellhousing to their
specified torque settings,
26 Reconnect the wiring connector to the oil
level sensor, then refit the oil return hose and
secure with the retaining clip.
27 Refil the oil dipstick guide tube and secure
with Ihe two bolts tightened securely
28 Locate the air conditioning compressor
mounting bracket m position and refit the
four retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to the
specifled tongue. Clip the wiring harness back
into position on the tnacket.
29 Position the air conditioning compressor
on the mounting bracket. Fit and tighten
the three retaining bolls to the specifled
torque (see Chapter 3), then reconnect Ihe
compressor wiring connector
30 Refit the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 6.
31 Reflt the catalytic converter support
bracket and securely tighten the three bolts,
32 Refit the exhaust system as described in
Chapter 4B,
33 Position the intermediate shaft bearing
housing support bracket on the cylinder block
and secure with the three retaining bolts
tightened to the specified torque,
34 Refit the intermediate shaft and right-hand
driveshaft as described in Chapter 6.
35 Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray,
then lower the car to Ihe ground and tighten
the wheel bolts to the specified tcrciue,
36 Fill the engine with fresh engine oil as
described in Chapter 1B,
37 On completion, reconnect the battery
terminal.
Refitting
19 Thoroughly clean the sump and remove
all traces of silicone sealer and oil from the
mating surfaces of the sump and cylinder
block- If removed, refit the oil baffle plate and
tighten its retaining bolts securely.
20 if clearance allows, refit the oil pump
pick-up/strainer using a new sealing ring,
and tighten Its two retaining bolts securely.
14 ON p u m p removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7,
2 Remove the crankshaft sprocket as
described In Section 8,
3 Remove Ihe sump and oil pump pick-up/
strainer as described in Section 13,
4 Slacken and remove the seven retaining
bolts then slide the oil pump housing
assembly off of the end of the crankshaft (see
Illustration), Remove the housing gasket and
discard it.
Overfiaul
13.21 Apply a continuous bead of Silicone
sealing compound to the sump flange
5 Undo the tetaining screws and lift off the
pump cover from the rear of the housing (see
illustration),
6 Check the inner and outer rotors for
identification dots indicating which way round
they are fitted (see Illustration), If no marks
are visible, use a suitable marker pen to mark
the surface of both the pump inner and outer
rotors.
7 Lift out the inner and outer rotors from the
pump housing.
8 Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve bolt
from the base of the housing and withdraw
the spring and plunger, noting which way
anound the plunger is fitted (see illustrations).
Remove the sealing washer from the vaive
bolt.
9 Clean the components, and carefully
examine the rotors, pump body and relief
valve plunger for any signs of scoring or
wear, tt any damage or wear is noticed, it will
be necessary lo renew the complete pump
assembly
10 If the pump is satisfactory, reassemble the
imponents in the reverse onder of i
noting the followina.
aJ ensure both rotors are filled (fie correct
way around,
b) Fit a new sealing ring to the pressure
relief valve bolt and securely tighten the
bolt.
cj Apply a little locking compound to the
threads, and securely tighten the pump
is flush with the housing and lubricate the oil
seal lip with clean engine oil.
12 Ensure the mating surfaces of the oil
pump and cylinder block are clean and dry.
13 Fit a new gasket to the oil pump housing
and bend down the tabs on the edge of the
gasket to retain it on the pump housing (see
d) On completion prime the oil pump by
filling it with clean engine oil whilst
rotating the inner rotor (see illustration).
14 Locate the pump housing over the end
of the crankshaft and into position on the
cylinder block.
15 Refit the pump housing retaining bolts and
tighten them to the specified tonnue.
16 Refit the oil pump pick-up/strainer and
sump as described in Section 13,
17 Relit the crankshaft sprocket as described
in Section 8.
18 Refit the timing belt as described In
Section 7,
19 On completion, fit a new oil filter and
fill the engine with clean oil as described in
Chapter 1B.
Refitting
11 Prior to refitting, carefully lever out
the crankshaft oil seal using a flat-biaded
screwdriver Fit the new oil seal, ensuring
its sealing iip is facing inwards, and press it
squarely into the housino using a tubular drift
which bears only on the hard outer edge of
the seal. Press the seal into position so that it
15 Oif filter h o u s i n g removal and refitting
.
gS-,
Removal
14.10 Pnme the oil pump by filling it with
clean engine oil whilst rotating the inner
rotor
14.13 Bend down the tabs on the edge
of the gasket to retain il on the oil pump
housing
1 The oil filter housing with integral oil cooler
is located at the rear of the cylinder block,
above the right-hand dnveshaft.
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
15.10 Oil filter tiousing rataining bolts (arrawed)
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel, then undo the
ten bolts and remove the engine undertray.
4 Drain the cooling systen
5 Remove the engine oil filter element as
described in Chapter IB.
6 Remove the right-hand driveshaft and the
intennediate shaft as described in Chapter 8.
7 Undo the three bolts securing the
intermediate shaft bearing housing support
brac*et to the cylinder block and r ^ o v e the
support bracket (see illustration 13.4).
8 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
oil pressure switch.
d Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the two coolant hoses from the oil cooler on
the oil filter housing.
10 Undo the three retaining bolts and remove
the oil filter housing from the cylinder block
(see Illustration). Recover the two rubber
seals from the rear of the housing. Note that
new seais will be required for refitting.
RefiWng
11 •Hioroughly clean tbe oil filter housing,
then fit the two new sealing rings (see
illustrations).
12 Position the oil filter housing on the
cylinder block and refit the retaining bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
13 Refit the two coolant hoses and secure
with their retaining clips. Reconnect the oil
pressure switch wiring connector
14 Position the intermediate shaft bearing
housing support bracket on the cylinder block
and secure with the three retaining bolts
tightened to the specified torque.
15 Refit the intermediate shaft and right-hand
driveshaft as described In Chapter 8.
16 Fit a new oil filter element as described in
Chapter 16.
17 Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray,
then lower the oar to the ground and tighten
the wheel bolts to the specified tonque.
sealing ring to the oil filter housing supply
channel...
18 Refill the cooling system
Chapter IB.
19 Check, and if necessary, top-up the
engine oil as described in Weekly checks.
20 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal.
16 Crankshaft oit seals renewal
Right-hand
(timing
belt
end)
1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket as
described in Section 8.
2 Carefijlly punch or drill a small hole in the
oil seal. Screw in a self-tapping screw and pull
on the screw with pliers to extract the seal
(see illustration).
3 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
buns or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Ease the new oil seal into position on the
end of the crankshaft. Press the seal squarely
into poslflon until it is flush with the housing.
If necessary, a suitable tubular drift which
bears only on the hand outer edge of the seal
can be used to tap the seal Into position (see
illustration). Take great care not to damage
16.2 Screw in a self-tapping screw and
pull on the screw with pliers to extract the
15.11b . . . a n d t o f h e n
the seal lips during fitting and ensure that the
seal lips face inwands.
5 Wash off any traces of oil, tfien refit the
crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 8
Left-hand
{flywheel
end)
6 Remove the flywheel as described in
Section 17.
7 Remove the sump as described In Section 13.
8 Undo the five bolts and remove the oil seal
housing. Note that the oil seal and the housing
are a single assembly
9 Clean the crankshaft and polish off any
'
15.4 Using a socket as a tubular drift fo fit
positioning dowel on the crankshaft. Apply a
drop of locking compound to the threads of
each new flywheel retaining bolt (unless they are
already precoated) and install the new tolts,
7 Lock the flywheel by the method used on
removal then, working in a diagonal sequence,
evenly and progressively tighten the retaining
bolts to the specified torque,
8 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6
then remove the locking tool, and refit the
i described in Chapter 7A,
• f
16.10 Frtb'ng the new oil seal housing, wtth
integral oli seal, over the cranitshaft
burrs or raised edges whicii may have caused
the seal to fail in the first piace.
10 Position the new oil seal housing, complete
with seal, over the crankshaft and into position
on the cyiinder biock {see illustration). Note
that the new oil seal housing is supplied with
a protector sleeve over the oil seal. Leave the
Sleeve in position as the housing is fitted,
11 Refit the five retaining bolts and tighten to
the specified torque,
12 Remove the protector sleeve from the
housing (see illustration).
13 Refit the sump as described in Section 13.
14 Refit the flywheel as described in Section 17,
16.12 After fitting, remove the protector
sleeve from the housing
17 Fiywheel removal, inspection
and refitting
^
3 i
«
Note: A/eiv flywheel retaining bolts wili be
required on refitting.
Removal
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly
as described in Chapter 6,
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement
to that shown (see illustration),
3 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel (see illustration). Do not
drop it. as it is very heavy.
Inspection
4 it there is any doubt about the condition of
the fiywheel, seek the advice ot a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. They will be able to advise if it is
possible to recondition it or whether renewal
is necessary.
Refitting
17.2 Prevent the flywheel Irom turning by
locking the ring gear teeth
5 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft.
6 Offer up the fiywheel and engage it over the
18 E n g i n e / t r a n s m i s s i o n
mountings inspection and renewal
Inspection
1 if improved access is required, firmly apply
the handbrake, then jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible,
4 Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar, check
for wear in the mounting by carefully levering
against it to check for free play; where this
is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant
to move the engine/transmission unit backand-forth, or from side-to-side, while you
watch the mounting. W/hile some free play Is
to be expected even ftom new components,
excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive
free play is found, check first that the fasteners
are correctly secured, then renew any worn
components as described bieiow.
Renewal
Note; Before slackening any of the engine
mounting tiolts/nuts. the relative positions of
18.6 From mounting/tortiue link through-twit (A) and mounting
bracket-to-transmiasion bolts (B)
18.22b . . . and mounbng-to-bady retaining
bolts W and nut (B)
18.28 Left-hand mounting bracket-totransmission bracket retaining boKs
(arrowed)
18.29 Lett-hand mounting-to-body
retaining bolts (arrowed) - shown with
engine/transmission removed
the mountings to their various brackets should
be marked to ensure correct alignment upon
refitting.
Front m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
mounting bracket to the transmission and
the through-bolt secuhng the mounting to the
bracket (see illustration).
15 Undo the nuts and remove the two bolts
secunng the mounting to the subframe (see
illustration). Manoeuvre the mounting and
bracket out from under the car.
16 Refit the bracket to the transmission and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
17 Locate the new mounting in position.
Insert the bolts and tighten the bolt/nuts to the
specified torque.
18 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
and refit the two bolts and the nut securing
the mounting to the tx)dy. Tighten the bolts/
nut to the specified torque. Align the mounting
in its original position, then tighten the three
mounting bracket bolts to the specified torque.
24 Remove the support jack, then refit the air
cleaner as described in Chapter 4B25 On completion, lower the vehicle to fhe
ground.
5 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
Ot the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
mounting to the subframe bracket. Withdraw
the through-bolt (see illustration).
7 Undo the bolts secuhng the mounting
bracket to the transmission, then manoeuvre
the mounting and bracket out of position.
8 Check all components for signs of wear or
damage, and renew as necessary,
9 Locate the mounting in the subframe, refit
the through-bolt and nut, then tighten the nut
finger-tight al this stage.
10 Refit the mounting bracket to the transmission and tighten its bolts to the specified
tonque,
11 Tighten the through-bolt nut to the
specified torque.
12 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Rear m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
13 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and rehic/e support).
14 Undo the three bolts securing the
Rigtit-hand m o u n t i n g
19 Apply the handbrai^e, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
20 Remove the air cleaner as descnbed in
Chapter 48.
21 Place a trolley jack beneath the right-hand
end of the engine with a block of wood on the
jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting
the weight of the engine.
22 Mark the position of the three bolts
securing the mounting bracket to the engine
bracket and undo the bolts. Undo the two
bolts and one nut securing the mounting to
the body and remove the mounting assembly
(see illustrations).
23 Place the mounting assembly in position
Left-hand m o u n t i n g
26 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
27 Place a trolley jack beneath the transmission with a block of wood on the jack
head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the
weight of the engine/transmission unit.
28 Using a Torx socket, unscrew the three
bolts securing the mounting bracket to the
transmission bracket (see Illustration).
29 Undo the four bolts securing the mounting
to the body and the three bolts secuhng the
transmission bracket to the transmission (see
illustration). Remove the mounting assembly
from the car
30 Locate the mounting brackets in position
then insert the bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque,
31 Remove the support jack from under the
transmission.
32 Refit Ihe battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A,
Chapter 2 Part D:
1.9 litre DOHC diesel engine
in-car repair procedures
Contents
Section number
Camshafts-removal, inspection and refitting
10
Camshaft followers and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and
refitting
11
Camshaft housing - removal and refitting
9
Camshaft oil seal - renewal
8
Compression and leakdown tests - description and Interpretation.. 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal
16
Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper-removal and refitting
5
Cylinder head-removal and refitting
12
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and
renewal
18
Section number
Flywheei/drivepiate - removai, inspection and refitting
General information
Oil filter housing - removal and refitting
Oil pump - removal, overhaul and
refitting
Sump - removal and refitting
Timing belt - removal and refitting
Timing belt spnockets, tensioner and idler pulley - removal and
refitting
Top dead centre CTDC) for No 1 piston - locating
Valve timing - checking and adiustment
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fakfyciflicul^
|
suitable for comp^ent ;^
DIY mechanic
3
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
!
suitable for expen ;
DIY or prc.fessional •
Specifications
General
Engine type
Four-cylinder, In-line, water-cooled. Double overhead camshaft,
belt-driven
Manufacturer's engine code*
Zl 9DTH
Bore
82.0 mm
Stroke
90.4 mm
Capacity
1910cc
Compression ratio
17.5:1
Rringorder
1-3-4-2(No1 cylinder at timing belt end of aigine)
Direction of crankshaft rotation
Clockwise (vievred from timing belt end of engine)
• For details of engine code location, see Veh/c/e identification' in the Reference Chapter.
Compression pressures
Maximum difference between any two cylinders
1.5 tiar
Lubrication s y s t e m
fcitimum oil pressure ^iaO°C
Oipunptype
1.0 bar at klle speed
Rotor-^.thtvenbycrantehaftpul^AribrationdaR^ftom
17
1
15
14
13
6
7
3
4
Torque wrench settings
Air condrtioning compressor mounting tjracket to cylinder block/sump .
Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley bolt
Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner assembly bolts
Camshaft drivegear bolts
Camstiaft (lousing closure bolts
Camshaft sprocket boltConnecting rod big-end bearing cap bolt:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Crankshaft oil seal housing
Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper bolts
Crankshaft sprocket bolt't
Cylinder head bolts:'
Stage 1 . . . .
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Stage 5
Engine mountings:
Front mounting/torque link:
Mounting to transmission
Mounting to subframe
Left-hand mounting:
Mounting-to-body bolts
Mounting bracket to transmission bracket
Transmission bracket to transmission
Rear mounting/torque link:
Mounting bracket to trmismlsslon
Mounting to subframe
Mounting to transmission bracket
Right-hand mounting;
Engine bracket-to-engine bolts;
Lower bolts (M8)
Upper bolts (M10)
Mounting-to-body bolts/nut
Mounting-to-engine bracket bolts
Engine-to-transmission unit bolts;
Ml 0 bolts
M12 bolls
Flywheei/drivepiate bolts*
High-pressure fuel pump sprocket nut*
Intennediate shaft beanng housing support bracket bolts
Main bearing cap bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Oil fitter housing to cylinder block
Oil pump housing to cylinder block
Oil pump pick-up/strainer bolts
Roadwheel bolts
Sump bolts;
M6 bolts
M8bolts
M10 bolts
Sump drain plug
Timing belt idler pulley bolt
Timing belt tensioner bolt
Timing belt upper cover bolts:
M6 bolts
M8 boils
' Use new nuts/bolts
t Left-hand thread
Nm
50
50
50
120
16
120
ibfft
37
37
37
89
12
89
25
Angle-tighten a further 60°
9
25
3^0
7
18
251
18
20
65
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 90°
""^
48
80
80
58
58
20
55
55
15
41
41
80
60
80
59
44
59
25
50
55
55
18
37
41
41
40
60
160
50
55
30
44
118
37
41
25
/\ngle-tighten a further 100°
50
9
9
110
18
37
7
7
81
9
25
40
20
50
30
7
18
30
15
37
22
9
25
7
18
: 1
Genera! i n f o r m a t i o n
i l o i v to u s e this
Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 describes the
repair procedures which can reasonably be
carried out on the engine while it remains in
the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
fnDm the vehicle and is being dismantled as
described In Chapter 2E, any preliminary
dismantling procedures can be ignored.
Note that, while it mav be oossible
physically to overhaul items such as the
piston/connecting rod assemblies while the
engine is in the vehicle, such tasks are not
usually carried out as separate operations,
and usually require the execution of several
additional procedures (not to mention the
cleaning of components and of oilways); for
this reason, all such tasks are classed as
major overhaul procedures, and are described
in Chapter 2E.
Chapter 2E describes the removal of the
engine/transmission unit from the vehicle, and
the full overtiaul pnDcedures which can then
be carried out.
Engine
description
The 1.9 litre DOHC diesel engine is of fhe
sixteen-valve, in-line four-cylinder, double
overhead camshafttype, mounted transversely
at the front of the car, with the transmission on
its left-hand end.
The crankshaft Is supported within the
cylinder block on five shell-t^e main bearings.
Thrustwashers are fitted to number 3 main
bearing, to control crankshaft endfioat.
The connecting rods rotate on horizontallysplit bearing shells at their big-ends. The
pistons are attached to the connecting rods by
gudgeon pins, which are retained by cirolips.
TTie aluminium-alloy pistons are fitted with
three piston rings - two compression rings
and scraper-type oil contnsl ring.
The camshafts are situated in a separate
housing bolted to the top of the cylinder
head. The exhaust camshaft is driven by the
crankshaft via a toothed composite rubber
timing belt (which also drives the high-pressure
fuel pump and the coolant pump). The exhaust
camshaft drives the inlet camshaft via a spur
gear. Each cylinder has four valves (two inlet
and two exhaust), operated via followers which
are supported at their pivot ends by hydraulic
self-adjusting tappets. One camshaft operates
the inlet valves, and the other operates the
exhaust valves.
The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by a single valve spring, and operate In
guides pressed into the cylinder head.
Lubrication is by pressure-feed from a
rotor-type oi! pump, which is mounted on the
right-hand end of the crankshaft. The pump
draws oil through a strainer located In the
sump, and then forces it through an externally
mounted full-fiow cartridge-type filter. The
oil flows into galleries in the cylinder block/
crankcase, from where it Is distributed to the
crankshaft (main bearings) and camshafts.
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via
internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the
camshaft bearings also receive a pressurised
supply. The camshaft lobes and valves are
lubricated by splash, as are all other engine
components.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed; crankcase fumes are drawn
from the oil separator attached to the cylinder
block via a hose to the camshaft housing. The
fumes are then passed via a hose to the inlet
manifold.
Operations
with
engine
in
car
The following operations can be carried out
wfthout having to remove the engine from the
a) Removal and refitting of the cylinder
head.
b) Removal and refitting of the timing belt,
tensioner, idler pulleys and sprockets.
c) Renewal of (he camshaft oil sea/.
d) Removai and refitting of the oam^ft
housing.
e) Removal and refitting of the camshafts
and followers.
f) Removal and refitting of the sump.
g) Removai and refitting ofthe connecting
rods and pistons.'
h) Removai and refitting of the oil pump.
i) Removal and refitting of the oil filter
housing.
i) Renewal of tiie crankshaft oil seals,
k) Renewal ofthe engine mountings.
I) Removal and refitting of the fiywheel/
" Although the operation marked with an
asterisk can be carried out with the engine
in the oar (after removal of the sump), it is
preferable for (he engine to be removed, in the
interests of cleanliness and improved access.
For this reason, the procedure is desciibed in
Chapter ZE.
2
Compression and
leakdown t e s t s descripiion and interprefation
provide diagnostic clues as to the engine's
condition. If the test is performed regularly. It
can give warning of trouble before any other
symptoms t>©come apparent.
2 The tester is connected to an adapter
which screws Into the glow plug holes. It
is unlikely to be worthwhile buying such
a tester for occasional use, but ft may
be possible to borrow or hire one - if not,
have the test perfonned by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer, or suitably-equipped garage. If the
necessary equipment is available, proceed
as follows.
3 Remove the glow plugs as described
in Chapter 5A, then disconnect the wiring
connector from the fuel pressure regulating
valve on the fuel rail (see Chapter 4B) to
prevent Ihe engine from running or fuel from
being discharged.
4 Screw the compression tester adapter in to
the glow plug hole of No 1 cylinder.
5 With the help of an assistant, crank the
engine on the starter motor; after one or
two revolutions, the compression pressure
should bulld-up to a maximum figure, and
then stabilise. Record the highest reading
obtained.
6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure in each.
7 All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; any difference greater than the
maximum figure given in the Specifications
indicates the existence of a fault. Note that
the compression should build-up quickly in
a healthy engine; low compression on the
first stroke, followed by gradually-in creasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which does not build-up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked
head could also be the cause). Note: Tfie
cause of poor compression is less easy to
establish on a diesel engine than on a f>etrol
one. The effect of introducing oil into the
cylinders ('wet' testing) Is not conclusive,
because there is a risk that the oil will sit in
the recess on the piston crown instead of
passing to the rings.
S On completion of the test refit the glow
plugs as described in Chapter 5A, and
reconnect the wiring connector to the fuel
pressure regulating valve.
Le
Compression
test
Note 1: A compression tester specifically
deigned for diesel engines must be used for
this test.
Note 2: TTie battery must be in a good state
of charge, the air filter must be clean, and
the engine should be at normal operating
temfierature.
1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed
to the fuel system, a compression test can
'own
test
9 A leakdown test measures the rate at which
compressed air fed into the cylinder is lost. It
is an alternative to a compression test, and in
many ways it is better, since the escaping air
provides easy identification of where pressure
loss is occurring (piston rings, valves or head
gasket).
10 The equipment needed for leakdown
testing Is unlikely to be available to the home
mechanic. If poor compression is suspected,
have the test perfonned by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer, or suitably-equipped garage.
!I
mm
3.0a Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-4678B
{or equivalent) Is required to set the TDC
position for No 1 piston . . .
3
Top d e a d c e n b e
fTDC) for No 1 p i s t o n locating
^
^
Note; To accurately determine the TDC
position tor No I piston, it will be necessary
to use Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46 788
(or suitable equivalent) to set the crankshaft at
the TDC position, together with the camshaft
positioning tool, Vauxhall/Opel special tool
EN-46789 (or suitable equivalent) (see
illustrations)1 In its travel up and down its cylinder tiore,
Top Dead Centre (TDC) Is the highest point
that each piston reaches as the crankshaft
rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both
at the top ot the compression strole retaining nut and bolte
(arrowed) and remove the right-hand
engine mounting
3.9 Engine br«athsr pipe retaining bolts
3.10 Undo the bolt (arrowed] and release
the engine oil dipstick guide tube Irom the
coolant pipe
3.11 Unscrew the closure tKilt from the
valve timing checking hole in the camshaft
housing
3.5 Undo the centrât mounting bolt
(anrowed), and remove the auxiliary
drivet)elt tensioner assembly
jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting
the weight of the engine.
8 Mark the bolt positions for correct refitting,
then undo the three bolts securing the
right-hand engine mounting to the engine
bracket, and the two bolts and one nut
securing the mounting to the body. Remove
the mounting (see Illustration).
9 Release the retaining clip securing the
engine breather hose to the breather pipe
adjacent to the engine oil dipstick. Undo the
two bolts securing the breather pipe to the
cylinder head, and disconnect the pipe from
the hose (see illustration).
10 Undo the bolt and release the engine oil
dipstick guide tube from the coolant pipe (see
Itlustratlon).
11 Unscrew the closure boft from the valve
timing checking hole in the camshaft housing
(see illustration).
12 Screw the camshaft positioning tool
(Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46789) into the
valve timing checking hole,
13 Using a socket and extension bar on the
crankshaft sprocket twit, rotate the crankshaft
in the normal direction of rotation until the
spring-loaded plunger of the positioning tool
slides into engagement with the slot in the
camshaft. There will be an audible click from
the tool when this happens.
14 Unscrew the bolt from the lower left-hand
side of the oH pump housing and screw in the
fastening stud of Vauxhall/Opel special tool
EN-46788 (see illustration).
15 Rt the positioning ring of tool EN-46788
over the fastening stud and engage It with the
3.14 Screw the fastening stud of special
tool EN-467B8 into the oil pump housing
crankshaft sprocket. Ensure that the hole in
ttie positioning ring engages with ttie lug on
the sprocket. Secure the tool in position with
the retaining bolt and nut (see illustration).
16 With the crankshaft positioning nng in
place and the camshaft positioning tool
engaged with the slot rn the camshaft, the
engine is positioned with No 1 piston at TDC
on compression.
Vatve t i m i n g checie to the coolant pipe and tighten the
bolt securely.
28 Attach the engine breather hose to the
breather pipe and secure with the retaining
clip. Secure the breather pipe to the cylinder
head with the two bolts securely tightened.
29 Refit the plastic cover to the top of the
engine.
30 Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray
then lower the oar to the ground and tighten
the wheel bolts to the specified torque.
7
T i m i n g belt s p r o c k e t s ,
tensioner a n d idler puiley removal and refitting
;K
Note: Certain special tools wiii be required
for the removal and refitting of the sproc/cets.
Read through the entire procedure to
familiarise yourself with the work involved,
then eittmr obtain the manufacturer's special
tools, or use the alternatives described.
Camshaft
sprocket
Note: A new sprocket retaining bolt will be
required for refitting.
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 6, then remove camshaft positioning
tool from the valve timing checking hole.
2 It will now be necessary to hold the
camshaft sprocket to enable the retaining bolt
to be removed. Vauxhall/Opel special tools
EN-46787 and KM-956-1 are available for
this purpose, however, a home-made tool can
easily be fabricated (see Tool Tip).
3 Engage the tool with the holes in the
camshaft sprocket, taking care not to damage
the camshaft sensor located behind the
sprocket
4 Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove the
sprocket fnam the end of the camshaft.
Refitting
5 Prior to refitting check the oil seal for signs
of damage or leakage. If necessary, renew as
described in Section 8,
6 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft end,
aligning its cut-out with the locating peg,
and fit the new retaining bolt tinger-tighi
only at this stage. Final tightening is earned
out after the timing belt has been fitted and
tensioned.
7 Refit the camshaft positioning tool to the
vaive timing checking hole. If necessary,
rotate the camshaft slightly, by means of the
sprocket, until the tool audibly engages.
8 Proceed with the timing belt refitting
procedure as described in Section 6,
paragraphs 9 to 14.
9 Retain the camshaft sprocket using the
holding tool, and tighten the retaining boH to
the specified torque.
10 Continue with the timing belt refitting
procedure as described In Section 6,
paragraphs 15 to 30.
Crankshaft
sprxtcket
Note 1: The crankshaft sprocket retaining
bolt is extremely tight. Ensure that the holding
tool used to prevent rotation as the bolt
is slackened is of sturdy construction and
securely attached.
Note 2: A new sprocket retaining bolt will be
required for refitting.
Removal
11 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 6,
12 It will now be necessary to hold the
crankshatt sprocket to enable the retaining
bolt to be removed. Vauxhail special tools
EN-47630 and KlVl-956-1 are available for this
purpose, however, a home-made tool similar
to that described in paragraph 2, can easily tte
fabricated.
13 Using the crankshaft pulley retaining tiolts,
securely attach the tool to the crankshaft
spmcket. With the help of an assistant, hold
the sprocket stationary and unscrew the
retaining bolt. Note: The sprocket retaining
7.14a Remove the bott and
To make a sprocket holding tool, obtain
two lengths of steel strip about 6 mm
thick by about 30 mm wide or similar,
one 600 mm long, the other 200 mm
long (all dimensions are approximate).
Bolt the two strips together to form a
forked end, leaving the bolt slack so
that the shorter strip can pivot freely.
At the other end of each 'prong' of the
fork, drill a suitable hole and fit a nut
and bolt to allow the tool to engage
with the spokes In the sprocket.
bolt has a left-hand thread and is unscrewed
by turning it clockwise.
14 Remove the bolt and washer and slide the
sprocket off the end of the crankshaft {see
Illustrations). Note that a new bolt will be
required for refitting.
Refitting
15 Align the sprocket locafion key with the
crankshaft groove and slide the sprocket
into position. Fit the new retaining bolt and
washer
16 Hold the sprocket stationary using the
holding tool and tighten the retaining boH to
the specified torque. Remove the holding
tool.
High-pressure
pump
spmcket
Note: A new sprocket retaining nut wM be
required for refitting.
Removal
7.20 Engage the holding tool witli the
holes in the fuel pump sprocket and undo
the retaining nut
7.21 Use a suitable puller to release the
fuel pump sprocket taper
however, a home-made tool similar to that
described in paragraph 2, can easily be
labricated.
20 Engage the tool with the holes in the
fuel pump sprocket and undo the sprocket
retaining nut (see Illustration). Note that a
new nut will be required for refitting.
21 Attach a suitable puller to the threaded
holes in the fuel pump sprocket using bolts
and washers similar to the arrangement shown
(see illustration),
22 Tighten the puller centre boll to release
the sprocket from the taper on the pump
shaft. Once the taper releases, remove the
puller and withdraw the sprocket. Collect
the Woodruff key from the pump shaft (see
illustrations).
Refitting
. . and collect the Woodruff key
from the pump shaft
19 It will now be necessary lo hold the fuel
pump sprocket to enable the retaining nut to
be removed. Vauxhall special tools KM-6347
and KM-956-1 are available for this purpose,
23 Clean the fuel pump shaft and the
sprocket hub ensuring that all traces of oil or
grease are removed.
24 Refrt the Woodnjff key to the pump shaft,
then locate the sprocket in position. Fit the
new retaining nut.
25 Hold the sprocket stationary using the
holding tool and tighten the retaining nut to
the specified torque. Remove the holding
tool,
26 Refit the timing belt as described in Sec-
Tensioner
assembly
Removal
27 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
28 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt
and remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine (see illustrations).
Refitting
29 Fit the tensioner to the engine, making
sure that the slot on the tensioner backplate
IS correctly located over the peg on the engine
bracket (see Illustration).
30 Clean the threads of the retaining bolt and
apply thread-locking compound to the bolt
threads. Screw in the retaining bolt, set the
tensioner in the retracted position and tighten
the retaining bolt.
31 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
Idler
pulley
Removal
32 Remove the timing belt as described In
Section 6.
33 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt and
remove the idler pulley from the engine (see
Refitting
in the tensioner backplate
sr the peg (arrowed)
jnglne bracket
7.33 Slacken and remove the retaining
bolt and remove the idler pulley from the
engine
34 Refit the idler pulley and lighten the
retaining bolt to the specified torque.
35 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
9.2a Disconnect the wiring connectors
the fuel Injectors . . .
C a m s h a f t oil seat •
renewal
1 Remove the camshaft spreeki
in Section 7.
2 Carefully punch or drill a small hole in the oil
seal. Screw in a self-tapping screw, and pull
on the screw with pliers to extract the seal.
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fall In the first place.
4 Press the new oil seal into position using a
suitable tubular drift (such as a socket) which
bears only on the hanj outer edge of the seal.
Take care not to damage the seal lips during
fitting; note that the seal lips should face
Inwards5 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section 7,
: 9
conditioning compressor
(anrowed)
6 Release the two retaining clips and
disconnect the charge air hose from the
throttle body/housing, and intercooler charge
air pipe (see illustration).
Camshaft housing -
removal and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
2 Disconnect the wiring harness connectors
from the following components (s
illustrations):
(J Fuel injectors.
b) Fuel pressure regulating valve.
c) Fuel pressure sensor.
d) Camsiiaft sensor.
e) Air conditioning compressor.
3 Release the air conditioning compressor
wiring harness from the clip on the oil dipstick
guide tube. Undo the two bolts securing the
plastic wiring harness guide to the camshaft
housing and move the disconnected winng
harness to one side (see Illustrations).
4 Disconnectthe two vacuum hoses from the
vacuum pipe assembly on top of the camshaft
housing. Undo the two retaining bolts and
move the pipe assembly to one side (see
illustration).
5 Remove the fuel iniectors and the hiel rail
as described in Chapter 4B.
9.3a Undo the two bolts (arrowed)
securing the wiring harness guide
camshaft housing . . .
9.4a Disconnect the two
from the vacuum pipe {
the disconnected
inng harness to one side
9.4b . . . then undo the two retaining boHs
(arrowed) and move the pipe assembly to
one side
^^^^
the retaining clips and
the charge air hose
9.7 Disconnect the vacuum hose
quick-release fitting from the braking
system v.
22 Refit the fuel raii and fuel injectors as
described in Chapter 4B.
23 Place the vacuum pipe assembly in
position on the top of the camshaft housing
and refit the two retaining bolts, Tighten the
bolts securely, then reconnect the two vacuum
24 Lay the plastic wiring harness guide in
position on the camshaft housing, then refit
and tighten the two retaining bolts.
25 Reconnect the wiring harness connectors
to the components listed in paragraph 2,
ensuring that the harness is secured by all the
relevant retaining clips.
26 Turn the crankshaft clockwise by 90° to
bnng No 1 and 4 pistons to approximately the
TDC position.
27 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
10 C a m s h a f t s removal, inspection
and refitting
Note: An additional camshaft positioning
tool Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46789 (or
suitable equivalent) will be required for this
operation - two in total (see Section 3).
9.8 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation
nose irom me engine on finer nousing
9.11 Lift the camshaft housing off the
cylinder head and recover the gasket
7 Disconnect the vacuum hose quick-release
fitting from the braking system vacuum pump
(see illustration).
8 Release the clip and disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the engine oil
filler housing (see Illustration).
9 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
two engine lifting brackets 1mm the left-hand
end of the camshaft housing. Undo the bolt
securing the turbocharger charge air pipe to
the right-hand end of the camshaft housing
10 Working in a spiral pattern from the outside
Inwards, progressively slacken, then remove,
the sixteen bolts secunng the camshaft housing
to the cylinder head. Ensure that the housing
releases evenly from the cylinder btock.
11 Lift the camshaft housing oft the
cylinder head and recover the gasket (see
lUustratlon).
12 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder head, camshaft housing and vacuum
pump and obtain a new gasket for refitting.
16 Refit the sixteen camshaft housing
retaining bolts. Progressively screw in the
bolts to gradually draw the housing down and
into contact with the cylinder head.
17 Working in a spiral pattern from the inside
outwards, progressively tighten the sixteen
bolts securely.
18 Refit the two engine lifting brackets to the
left-hand end of the camshaft housing and
tighten the retaining tiolts securely. Refit and
tighten the charge air pipe retaining bolt.
19 Reconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
to the engine oil filler housing,
20 Reconnect the vacuum hose quick-release
fitting to the braking system vacuum pump
ensuring that the fitting audibly engages,
21 Refit the charge air hose to the throttle
body/housing, and intercooler charge air pipe
and secure with the retaining clips.
Refitting
13 Check that all the hydraulic tappets and
rocker arms are con-ectly positioned in the
cylinder head and none have been disturbed.
14 Commence refitting by turning the
crankshaft anti-clockwise by 90°. This will
position all the pistons halt-way down their
bores, and prevent any chance of the valves
touching the piston crowns as the camshaft
housing is being fitted.
16 Place a new gasket on the cylinder head,
then locate the camshaft housing in position
aligning it with the locating dowels.
10.3 Undo ttie three retaining bolts and
remove the oil tiller housing
Removal
1 Carry out the operations described in
Section 9, paragraphs 1 to 8.
2 Remove the braking system vacuum pump
as described in Chapter 9.
3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
coolant temperature sensor, then undo the
three retaining bolts and remove the oil filler
housing (see illustration).
4 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
camshaft sensor from the right-hand end ot
the camshaft housing.
5 Before removing the camshaft housing
completely, the retaining bolts for the camshaft
drivegears and sprocket should be slackened
: follows,
6 Remove the exhaust camshaft positioning
Jml from the valve timing checking hole,
7 It will be necessary to hold the camshaft
sprocket to enable the drivegear and sprocket
retaining bolts to be slackened. Vauxhall
special tools EN-467S7 and KM-956-1
are available for this purpose, however, a
home-made tool can easily be fabricated (see
Tool tip in Section 7).
8 Working through the oil filler housing
aperture, and using the holding tool to
prevent rotation of the camshaft, slacken
the inlet camshaft drivegear retaining
bolt. Working through the vacuum pump
aperture, slacken the exhaust camshaft
drivegear retaining bolt in the same way
(see illustrations).
9 Again, using the holding tool, slacken the
camshaft sprocket retaining bolt.
10 Continue with the camshaft housing
removal procedure as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 9 to 11.
11 With the camshaft housing placed upside
down on the bench, unscrew and remove
the previously-slackened retaining bolt, and
remove the timing belt sprocket from the
exhaust camshaft,
12 At the other end of the housing, unscrew
and remove the two previously-slackened
retaining bolts, and lift off the dnvegears
from the inlet and exhaust camshafts (see
13 Carefully prise out the exhaust camshaft
oil seal with a screwdnver or similar hooked
tool. Carefully withdraw the exhaust camshaft
out from the timing belt end of the camshaft
housing (see Illustration).
14 Using a wooden dowel or similar, carefully
tap the end of Ihe inlet camshaft toward the
timing bell end of the housing to release the
blanking cap. Remove the cap. then carefully
withdraw the inlet camshaft from the housing
(see Illustration).
Inspection
15 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft(s) if any of
these conditions are apparent. Examine
the condition of the bearing surfaces in the
camshaft housing. If the any wear or scoring
is evident, the camshaft housing will need to
be renewed.
16 If either camshaft is being renewed, it will
tie necessary to renew all the racker arms and
tappets for that particular camshaft also (see
Section 11).
17 Check the condition of the camshaft
10.13 Withdraw tho exhaust camshaft..
10,12b . . . then lift out the exhaust
drivegears and sprocket for chipped or
damaged teeth, wear ridges and scoring.
Renew any components as necessaiy.
Refitting
18 Prior to refitting, thoroughly clean all
components and dry with a lint-free cloth.
Ensure that all traces of oil and grease are
removed from the contact faces of the
drivegears, sprocket and camshafts.
19 Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals in
the camshaft housing and carefully insert the
inlet and exhaust camshafts,
20 Ensuring that the contact faces are clean
and dry, refit the drivegear to each camshaft.
Note that the gear with the vacuum pump drive
dogs is fitted to the exhaust camshaft, and the
plain gear is fitted to tbe inlet camshaft.
21 Screw in a new drivegear retaining bolt
for each camshaft and tighten both bolts
finger-tight only at this stage.
10,14 . . . and Inlet camshaft from the
camshaft housing
10,12c , . . and the inlet camshaft
drivegear
22 Refit the camshaft positioning tool to the
valve timing checking hole of the exhaust
camshaft. If necessary, rotate the exhaust
camshaft slightly until the tool audibly engages
(see lllustraüon),
23 Unscrew and remove the closure bolt
from the inlet camshaft side of the camshaft
housing and fit a second camshaft positioning
tool (see Illustrations), If necessary, rotate
the camshaft slightly until the tool audibly
24 With both camshafts locked by means of
the positioning tools, tighten both drivegear
retaining bolts to the specified torque (see
Illustration), It may be benelicial to have
an assistant securely support the camshaft
housing as the bolts are tightened.
25 Remove the positioning tool from the inlet
camshaft and refit the closure bolt. Tighten
the bolt to the specified tongue,
26 Fit a new inlet camshaft blanking cap to the
10.22 Refit the camshaft positioning tool
to Oie valve timing chocking hole of the
exhaust camshaft
10.23a Unscrew the closure bott from
ttie inlet camshaft side of the camshaft
housing...
10.26a Fit a new Inlet camshaft blanking
cap l o the camshaft housing . . .
10.26b . . . and tap tt into position until tt is
(lush with the outer (ace ol the housing
timing belt end of the camshaft housing and
tap it into position until it is flush with the outer
face of the housing, using a suitable socket or
tube, or a wooden block (see lllustratkinsl.
27 Similarly, fit a new exhaust camshaft oil
seal to the timing belt end of the camshaft
housing and tap it into position until it is flush
Wtth the outer face of the housing, using a
suitable socket or tube, or a wooden block
30 Refit the oil filler housing to the camshaft
housing using a new gasket, refit the
retaining bolts and tighten the bolts securely.
Reconnect the coolant temperature sensor
wiring connector
31 Refit the braking system vacuum pump as
described in Chapter 9.
32 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder head and camshaft housing.
33 Refit the camshaft housing to the cylinder
head as descht>ed in Section 9, paragraphs 13
to 26.
34 Commence refitting of the timing belt as
described in Section 6, paragraphs 9 to 14.
35 Retain the camshaft sprocket using the
holding tool, and tighten the retaining tjolt to
the specified ton:iue.
36 Continue refttting ot the timing belt as
described in Section 6. paragraphs 15 to 30.
28 Refit me timing belt sprocket to the
exhaust camshaft, aligning its cut-out with
the locating peg, and fit the new retaining bolt
finger-tight only at this stage. Final tightening
Is canied out after the timing belt has been
fitted and tensioned.
29 Refit the camshaft sensor to the camshaft
housing and tighten the retaining bolt
securely.
10.27 Similarly, (It a new exhaust camshaft
oil seal to the camstiaft housing
11 C a m s h a f t f o l l o w e r s a n d
hydraulic t a p p e t s - removal,
Inspection and refitting
^
^
^
Removal
1 Remove the camshaft housing as described
in Section 9.
2 Obtain sixteen small, oil tight clean plastic
containers, and number them inlet 1 to 8 and
exhaust 1 to 8; alternatively, divide a larger
container into sixteen compartments and
number each compartment accordingly
3 Withdraw each camshaft follower and
hydraulic tappet in turn, unclip the follower
from the tappet, and place them in their
respective container (see Illustrations). Do
not interchange the followers and tappets,
or the rate of wear will be much increased.
Fill each container with clean engine oil and
ensure that the tappet is submerged.
Inspection
4 Examine the followers and hydraulic tappet
bearing surtaces for wear ridges and scoring.
Renew any follower or tappet on which these
conditions are apparent,
5 If any new hydraulic tappets are obtained,
they should be immersed in a container of
clean engine oil prior to refitting.
11.3b . . . and hydraulic tappet In t u m , and
place them In tfielr respective container
Refitting
6 Liberally oil the cylinder head hydraulic
tappet bores and the tappets. Working on one
a time, clip the follower back onto
the tappet, then refit the tappet to the cylinder
head, ensuring thaï It is refitted to Its original
bore. Lay the follower over its re^ective valve
(see illustrations).
7 Refit the remaining tappets and followers in
the same way.
8 With all the tappets and followers in place,
refit the camshaft housing as descdbed in
Section 9.
12 Cylinder h e a d -
.S^
removal and refitting
^
•
Note; New cylinder head bolts will be required
tor refitting.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapte^.
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
3 Remove the camshaft housing as described
in Section 9.
4 Remove the camshaft followers and
hydraulic tappets as described In Section 11.
5 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described In Chapter 4B
6 Release the clips and disconnect the
remaining two coolant iioses at the thermostat
housing, and the coolant hose at the EGR
valve heat exchanger (see illustration).
7 Release the coolant pipe from the stud
at the base of the thermostat housing (see
Illustration).
8 Undo the bolt securing the high-pressure
fuel pump mounting bracket to the cylinder
head (see illustration).
9 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected.
10 Working in the reverse of the tightening
sequence (see i l l u s t r a t i o n 12.27).
progressively slacken the cylinder head bolts
by half a turn at a time, until all bolts can be
unscrewed by hand. Note that an Ml 4 RIBE
socket bit will be required to unscrew tne
botts. Remove the cylinder head bolts and
recover the washers.
_ i the help of an assistant, if
iry, and lift the cylinder head irom the
cylinder block (see Illustration).
Caution: Do not lay the head on its lower
mating surface; support the head on
wooden blocks, ensuring each block only
contacts (/is head mating surface.
12 Remove the gasket and keep it tor
identification purposes (see paragraph 19).
13 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled tor
overhaul, then refer to Part E of this Chapter.
Preparation
for
11.6a Clip the follower back onto the
tappet...
11.6b . . . t h e n refit the tappet t o Its
original bore, and lay the follower over its
plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces
of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston
crowns. Take particular care, as the surfaces
are damaged easily. Also, make sure that
the cartx)n is not allowed to enter the oil and
water passages - this is particularly important
for the lubrication system, as carbon could
block the oil supply to any of the engine's
components. Using adhesive tape and paper,
seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder
block/crankcase. To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons and bores, smear
a little grease in the gap. After cleaning each
piston, use a small brush to remove all traces
of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe
away the remainder with a clean rag. Glean all
the pistons in tfie same way.
15 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal.
16 Ensure that the cylinder head bolt holes
in the crankcase are clean and free of oil.
Syringe or soak up any oil left in the bolt holes.
This Is most important In order that the correct
bolt tightening torque can be applied and
to prevent the possibility of the block being
cracked by hydraulic pressure when the bolts
are tightened.
17 The cylinder head bolts must tje discarded
and renewed, regardless of their apparent
condition.
18 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part E of this
Chapter If necessary.
12.6 Disconnect the coolant hoses at the
thermostat housing (A), and at the EGR
valve heat exchanger (B)
12.7 Release the coolant pips from
tlie stud (an-owed) at the base of the
rofitUng
14 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard
12.8 Undo the boK
high-pressure fuel
to the cylinder head
12.11 Uft the cylinder head from the
19 On this engine, the cylinder head-topiston clearance is controlled by fitting
ditterent thickness head gaskets. The gasket
thickness can be determined by looking at the
holes stamped on the edge of the gasket (see
Hlufitratlon).
Gasket thickness
Number ol holes
0.77to0.87mm
Wo holes
0.87 to 0.97 mm
Two holes
0.97 to 1.07 mm
The correct thickness of gasket required is
selected by measuring the piston protrusions
as follows.
20 Mount a dial test indicator securely on the
block so that its pointer can ba easily pivoted
between the piston crown and block mating
surface. Tum the crankshatt to bring No 1 piston
roughly to the TDC position. Move the dial test
Indicator protje over and in contact with No 1
piston. Turn the crankshaft back and forth
slightly until the highest reading is shown on the
gauge, indteating that the piston is at TDC.
21 Zero the dial test indicator on the gasket
surface of the cylinder biock then carefully
move the indicator over No 1 piston. Measure
its pnatrusion at the highest point between the
valve cut-outs, and then again at its highest
point between the valve cut-outs at 90° to the
first measurement (see illustration). Repeat
this procedure with No 4 piston.
22 Rotate the crankshaft halt a turn (180")
to bring No 2 and 3 pistons to TDC. Ensure
the crankshaft is accurately positioned then
measure the protrusions of No 2 and 3 pistons
at the specified points. Once all pistons have
been measured, rotate the crankshaft to
position all the pistons at their mid-stroke.
23 Select the correct thickness of head
gasket required by determining the largest
amount of piston protrusion, and using the
following table.
Piston protrusion Gasket thickness
measurement (mm) required (mm)
0.020 to O.IOQ
0.77 to 0.87 (no holes)
0.101 to 0.200
0.87 to 0.97 (one hole)
0.201 to 0,295
0.97 to 1.07 (two holes)
Refitting
24 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Place the new gasket In position with the words
ALTO/TOP uppemiost (see illustration).
26 Carefully refit the cylinder head assembly to
the block, aligning it with the locating dowels.
26 Apply a thin film ot engine oil to the bolt
threads and the underside of the bolt heads.
Carefully enter each new cylinder head
bolt into its relevant hole (do not drop ihem
in). Screw all bolts ir
finger-tight.
12.24 Place the now gasket in position with the words ALTO/TOP
uppermost
27 Working progressiveiy in the sequence
stiown, tighten the cylinder head bolts to their
Stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench
and suitable socket (see illustration). Working
again in the same sequence, go around and
tighten all bolts through the specified Stage 2
tongue setting.
28 Once all bolts have been tightened to the
Slage 2 lorqur
irking agaii
nd and tighte
rough the specif ied Stage 3 a
rough the specif led Stage
angle, :
1,-iliv throuoii the specified Stage 5 angle
angle-n
iuring gauge.
Ketit tne Don securing me mgn-pressure
fuel pump mounting bracket to tho cylinder
head and tighten the bolt securely.
30 Engage the coolant pipe with the stud on
the thermostat housing, then reconnect the
coolant hoses to the thermostat housing and
EGR valve heat exchanger
31 Refit the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described in Chapter 46.
32 Refit the camshaft followers and hydraulic
tappets as described in Section 11.
33 Refit the camshaft housing as described
in Section 9.
34 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal, then refill the cooling
system as descritied in Chapter 1B.
13 S u m p removai and refitting
J
x
Refer to Chapter 2C, Section 13, but use
the tongue settings from the beginning ot tnis
Chapter.
14 Oil p u m p removal, overhaul and refitting
by hand only, until
12.27 Cirtlnder head bolt tightening sequence
the torque settings from the beginning of this
Chapter, and the following procedures from
this Chapter.
a) riming
removal and remting (Section 6).
b) Crankshaft sprocket remove and refitting
Action 7).
15 Oil filter h o u s i n g removal and refitting
Reier to Chapter 2C, Section 15, but use
the torque settings from the begmning of this
Chapter.
:16 C r a n k s h a f t oil seals renewal
Refer to Chapter 2C, Section 16, but use
the tnrnur: settings from the beginning of this
Chapter, and the cranl^shafl sprocliet removal
and refitting procedure from Section 7 m this
Chapter
;.17 F i y w h e e i / d r i v e p l a t e removal, inspection
refitting
^
^
^
Note: New liywheel/driveplate retaining bolts
will tie requirsd on refitting.
Removal
Manual t r a n s m i s s i o n m o d e l s
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly
as described in Chapter 6.
2 Prevent the flywheel irom turning by locking
17.2 Prevent tlie flywheel from turning by
locltfng the ring gear J6e«i
17.3 Rywbeel retaining bolts (anwved)
the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement
to that shown (see illustration).
3 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel (see illusb«tion). Do not
drop it, as it is very heavy.
Automatic transmission models
4 Remove the transmission as described In
Chapter 7B then remove the driveplate as
described in paragraphs 2 and 3.
drcip of locking compound to the threads of
each new flywheel retaining bolt (unless they
are already precoated) and install the new
bolts.
8 Lock the flywheel by the method used on
removal then, worthing in a diagonal sequence,
evenly and progressively tighten tfie retaining
bolts to the specified tonque.
9 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6
then remove the locking tool, and refit the
transmission as descritied in Chapter 7A.
Automatic transmission models
Inspection
5 If there is any doubt about tiie condition of
Vne fiywheei/driveplate, seek the advice of a
Vauxhall/Opel dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. They will be able to advise if It Is
possible to recondition if or whether renewal
is necessary.
Refitting
Manuał t r a n s m i s s i o n m o d e l s
6 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft.
7 Offer up the flywheel and engage it over the
positioning dowel on the crankshaft. Apply a
10 Refit the driveplate as described in para
graphs 6 to 8.
11 Renxive the locldng tool, and refit the transmissic»? as described in Chapter 7B,
18 E n g i n e / t r a n s m i s s i o n
mountings inspection and renewal
S
9
M
Refer to Chapter 2C, Section 18. where
necessary using this Chapters specifications.
Chapter 2 Part E:
Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Contents
Section number.
Section number
Crankshaft-inspection
Crankshaft-refitting
Crankshaft - removal
Cylinder block - cleaning and inspection
Cylinder head - dismantling
Cylinder head - reassembly
Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection
Engine-initial start-up after overhaul
Engine and transmission unit - removal, separation and refitting . . .
Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence
13
17
10
11
6
8
7
19
4
5
Engin,
Engin.
Engine removal - methods and precautions
General information
Main and big-end bearings - inspection
Piston
rings-refitting
Pistons/connecting rods - inspection
Pistons/connecting rods-refitting
Pistons/connecting nods removal
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
^
Fairly easy, suitable |
for beginner with
§
Fabiytfifficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
^
^
^
Difficult, suitable
^
for expOTienced DIY 5 ;
mechanic
^
Specifications
1.8 l i t r e Z 1 8 X E p e t r o l e n g i n e s
Cylinder head
lidaximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder head height
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
Valve seat vridth in cylinder head:
Inlet
Exhaust
Vahes and guides
Stem diameter:
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve head diameter:
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve length:
inletvalve
Exhaust valve
iWaximum pemiissible valve stem play in guide:
Inlet
Exhaust
Valve clearances
Cylinder block
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder bore diameter
Maximum cylinder bore ovality and taper
0.05 mm
135.85 to 136.00 mm
90° 30'
1.0to1.4mm
1.4 to 1.8 mm
4.955 to 4.970 mm
4.935 to 4.950 mm
31.10 to 31.30 mm
27,40 to 27.60 mm
101.20 to 101.60 mm
100.56 lo 100.96 mm
0.030 to 0.057 mm
0.050 to 0.077 mm
Automatic adjustment by hydraulic
0.05 mm
80.485 to 80.555 mm (nominal)
0.013 mm
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
. 15
3
1
14
16
12
18
9
1.8 l i t r e Z 1 8 X E p e t r o l e n g i n e s ( c o n t i n u e d )
Crankshaft and baaringa
Number of main bearings
Mam bearing journal diameter
Big-end beanng journal diameter
Crankshaft endfloat
5
54.980 to 54.997 n42.971 to 42.987 n0.100 to 0.202 mm
Pistons
Piston diameter
80.455 to 80.525 n
Piston rings
Numt)er of
Ring end gap:
Compressio
Oil control.
2 compression, 1 oil control
Torque wrench settings
Refer to Chapter 2A Specifications
1.8 l i t r e Z I S X E R p e t r o l e n g i n e s
Note: Where specifications are given as N/A, no information was avaiiabie at the tii
Refer to your Vauxhall/Opel dealer for the latest information available.
Cylinder head
Iwlaximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder head height
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
Valve seat width in cylinder head:
inlet
Exhaust
Valves and guides
Stem diameter
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Vatve head diameter:
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve length:
Inletvalve
Exhaustvalve
Maximum permissible valve Stem play in guUe:
Inlet
Exhaust
Valve clearances (cold):
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
0.05 mn
N/A
90" 30'
I.Otol.
1,4 to 1,
4.955 to
4.935 to
30.70 to
27.10 to
117.101
116.161
0.030 to
0,05010
0.21 to (
0.27 to I
Cylinder block
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder bore diameter
Maximum cyiinder bore ovality and taper
0.05 mn
80.492 !
0.013 m
Crankshatt and bearings
Number of main bearings
Main bearing journal diameter
Big-end bearing journal diameter
Crankshaft endfloat
5
54-980 10 54.997
42.971 to 42.987
0,100 to 0.202 n-
nstons
Piston diameter
Piston rings
Number of rings (per piston)
Ring end gap:
Top compression
Second compression
Oil control
Torque wrench settings
Refer to Chapter 2A Specifications
80.455 to 80.515 mm (nomlnaO
2 compressioi
0,20 to 0.40 rr
0.40 to 0.60 n
0.25 to 0.75 n"
2.2 l i t r e p e t r o l e n g i n e s
Cylinder head
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder head height
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
Valve seat width in cylinder head;
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valves and guides
Stem diameter
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve head diameter:
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve length:
Inlet valve
exhaust valve
Maximum pennissible valve stem play In guide:
inlet
Exhaust
Valve clearances
0.05 mm
129.00 mm
90°
1.1 to 1.3 mm
1.4 to 1.8 mm
5.955 to 5,970 mm
5.945 to 5.960 mm
34.95 to 35.25 mm
29.95 to 30,25 mm
101,995 to 102.545 mm
100.685 to 101.235 mm
0.aA2 to 0.045 mm
0.052 to 0.055 mm
Automatic adjustment by hydraulic c.
Cylinder b l o ^
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder bore diameter
Maximum cylinder bore ovallty and taper
0.05 mm
85.992 to 86.008 mm
0.013 mm
Crankshaft and twa rings
Number of main bearings
Main bearing iournal dianeter
Big-end bearing journal diameter
Crankshaft endfloat
5
55.994 to 56,008 mm
49.000 to 49,014 mm
0,04 to 0.292 mm
(Hstons
Piston diameter
85.967 to 85.982 mm
Piston rtngs
Number of rings (per piston)
2 compression, 1 oil control
Ring end gap:
Top compression
0.20 to 0.40 mm
Second compression
0,35 to 0.55 mm
Oil control
025 to0.76mm
Torque wrrench settings
Refer to Chapter SB Specifications
1.9 l i t r e S O H C d i e s e l e n g i n e s
Note: Where specificat/ons are given as N/A, no information was availabie at the time of writing.
Refer to yotir Vauxhali/Opel dealer for the latest infonnation available.
Cylinder head
Maximum gasket face distortion
0-10 mm
Cylinder head height
140.85 to 141.15 mm
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
N/A
Valve seat width in cylinder head
N/A
\^lve8 and guides
Stem diameter (inlet and exhaust}
7.974 to 7,992 mm
Valve head diameter
N/A
Valve length
N/A
Maximum permissible valve stem play In guide
N/A
Valve clearances (cold):
Inlet valve
0-25 to 0.35 mm
Exhaust valve
0.30 to 0,40 mm
Cylinder block
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder bore diameter
Maximum cylinder bore ovallty
Maximum cylinder bore taper
0.15 mm
82.000 to 82.030 mm
0.050 mm
0.005 mm
1.9 l i t r e S O H C d i e s e l e n g i n e s ( c o n t i n u e d )
Crankshaft and bearings
Number of main bearings
Main bearing journal diameter
Big-end tearing journal diameter
Crankshaft endfloat
5
59.855 to 60.000 mm
50,660 to 50,805 mm
0.049 to 0.211 mm
Pistons
Piston diameter
Piston rings
Number of rings (per piston)
Ring end gap:
Top compression
Second compression
Oil control
Torque wrench settings
81.920 to 81.950 mm
2 compression, 1 oil control
0,25 to 0.40 mm
0,25 to 0.50 mm
0.25 to 0.50 mm
Refer to Chapter 2C Specifications
1.9 l i t r e D O H C d i e s e l e n g i n e s
Note: Where speciflcaiions are given as N/A. no information was available at tfie time of writing.
Refer to your Vauxhall/Opel dealer for the latest information available.
Cylinder head
Maximum gasket face distortion
0.10mm
Cylinder tiead height
106.95 to 107.05 mm
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
N/A
Valve seat width In cylinder head
N/A
Vaives and guides
Stem diameter
Inlet valve
5,982 to 6,000 mm
Exhaust valve
5,972 to 5,990 mm
Valve head diameter
N/A
Valve length (inlet and exhaust)
107,95 mm
Maximum permissible valve stem play in guide
N/A
Valve clearances.,.,
Automatic adjustment by hydraulic cam followers
Cylinder block
Maximum gasket face distortion
0.15 mm
Cylinder bore diameter
82.000 to 82.030 mm
Maximum cylinder bore ovallty
0.050 mm
Maximum cylinder bore taper
0,005 mm
Crankshaft and bearings
Number of main bearings
5
Main bearing journal diameter
59.855 to 60.000 mm
Big-end bearing journal diameter
50,660 to 50,805 mm
Crankshaft endfloat
0.049 to 0.211 mm
Pistons
Piston diameter
Piston rings
Number of rings (per piston)
Ring end gap:
Top compression
Second compression
Oil control
Torque wrench settings
r,'
,4
General i n f o r m a t i o n
Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details
of removing the engine/transmission fnam the
car and general overhaul procedures for the
cylinder head, cylinder block/crankcase and
^1 other engine internal components.
81.920 to 81.950 mm
2 compression, 1 oil control
0.20 to 0,35 mm
0.60 to 0,80 mm
0.25 to 0.50 mm
Refer to Chapter 2D Specifications
The information given ranges from advice the removal and refitting of those external
concerning preparation for an overhaul
components necessary for full overhaul,
and the purchase of new parts, to detailed refer to Part A, B, C or D of this Chapter (as
step-by-step procedures covering removal, applicable) and to Section 5, Ignore any
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
preliminary dismantling operations described
internal components.
In Part A, B, C or D that are no longer relevart
After Section 5, all instructions are based once the engine has been removed fnam the
on the assumption that the engine has car,
been removed from the car. For Information
Apart from tonque wrench settings, which aie
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as given at the beginning of Part A, B, C or D (as
applicable), all specifications relating to engine
overhaul are at the beginning ot this Part of
Chapter 2.
11.2
Engine o v e r h a u l ai information
It is not always easy to determine when, or
if, an engine should be completely overhauled,
as a number of factors must be considered.
High mileage is not necessarily an indication
that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage
does not preclude the need for an overhaul.
Frequency of servicing is probably the most
important consideration. An engine which has
had regular and frequent oil and filter changes,
as well as other required maintenance, should
give many thousands of miles of reliable
service. Conversely, a neglected engine may
require an overhaul very early in its life.
EKcessive oil consumption is an indication
that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure that
oil leaks are not responsible tiefore deciding
that the hngs and/or guides are worn. Have a
compression test performed (refer to Part A
or B of this Chapter for petrol engines and to
Part C or D for diesel engines), fo determine
the likely cause of the problem.
Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted in
place of the oil pressure switch, and compare
it with that specified. If it is extremely low,
the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil
pump, are probably worn out.
Loss of power rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive vah/e gear
noise, and high fuel consumption may also
point to the need for an overhaul, especially
it they are ali present at the same time. If a
complete service does not cure the situation,
major mechanical work is the only solution,
A full engine overhaul involves restoring
all internal parts to the specification of a
new engine. Dunng a complete overhaul, the
pistons and the piston rings are renewed, and
the cylinder bores are reconditioned. New
main and big-end beanngs are generally fitted;
if necessary, the crankshaft mayfc>ereground,
to compensate for wear in the journals. The
valves are also serviced as well, since they
are usually in less-than-perfect condition at
tnis point. Always pay careful attention to the
condition of the oil pump when overhauling the
engine, and renew it if there is any doubt as to
its serviceability. The end result shouid be an
as-new engine that will give many trouble-free
miles.
Critical cooling system components
such as the hoses, thermostat and coolant
pump should be renewed when an engine
is overhauled. The radiator should also be
checked carefully, to ensure that it is not
clogged or leaking.
Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
through the entire procedure, to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Check on the availability of parts and
make sure that any necessary special tools
and equipment are obtained In advance. Most
work can be done with typical hand tools,
although a number of precision measuring
tools are required for inspecting parts to
determine if they must be renewed.
The services provided by an engineering
machine shop or engine reconditioning
specialist will almost certainly be required,
particularly if major repairs such as crankshaft
regrinding or cylinder reboring are necessary.
Apart from carrying out machining operations,
these establishmffiits will nomially handle the
Inspection of parts, offer advice concerning
reconditioning or renewal and supply new
components such as pistons, piston nngs
and beanng shells. It is recommended that
the establishment used is a member of the
Federation of Engine Re-Manufacturers, or a
similar society.
Always wait until the engine has been
completely dismantled, and until all
components (especially the cylinder block/
crankcase and the crankshaft) have been
inspected, before deciding what service
and repair operations must be performed
by an engineering works. The condition of
these components will be the major factor
to consider when determining whether
to overhaul the original engine, or to buy
a reconditioned unit. Do not, therefore,
purchase parts or have overhaul work done
on other components until they have been
thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time
is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does
not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine,
everything must be assembled with care, in a
spotlessly-clean environment.
3
Engine r e m o v a l methods and precautions
If you have decided that the engine must
be removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Engine/transmissron removal is extremely
complicated and involved on these vehicles. It
must be stated, that unless the vehicle can be
positioned on a ramp, or raised and supported
on axle stands over an inspection pit, it will be
very difficult to carry out the work involved.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine/transmission before beginning the
removal preicedure will help keep tools clean
and organised.
An engine hoist will also be necessary.
Make sure the equipment is rated in excess
of the combined weight of the engine and
transmission. Safety is ot primary importance,
considering the potential hazards involved in
removing the engine/transmission from the
The help of a
Apart
from the safety aspects involved, there are
many instances when one person cannot
simultaneously perform all of the operations
required during engine/transmission removal.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Before
starting work, ^ a n g e for the hire of or obtain
all of the tools and equipment you will need.
Some of the equipment necessary to perfonn
engine/transmission removai and Installation
safely (in addition to an engine hoist) is as
follows: a heavy duty trolley jack, complete
sets of spanners and sockets as described
in the rear of this manual, wooden blocks,
and plenty ot rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping-up spilled oil, coolant and luel. If
the hoist must be hired, make sure that you
anange for it in advance, and perform all of
the operations possible without it tieforehand.
This wili save you money and time.
Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a
while. An engineering machine shop or engine
reconditioning specialist will be required to
perform some of the work which cannot be
accomplished without special equipment.
These places often have a busy schedule, so
it would be a good idea to consult them before
removing the engine, in order to accurately
estimate the amount ol lime requited to
rebuild or repair components that may need
work.
During the engine/transmission removal
procedure, it is advisable to make notes
ol the locations of all brackets, cable ties,
earthing points, etc, as well as how the wiring
harnesses, hoses and electrical connections
are attached and routed around the engine
and engine compartment. An effective way of
doing this is to take a series of photographs
of the various components before they are
disconnected or removed; the resulting
photographs will prove Invaluable when the
engine/transmission is refitted.
Always t>e extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious
injury can result from careless actions. Plan
ahead and take your time, and a job of this
nature, although major, can be accomplished
successfully
On all Vectra models, Ihe engine must be
removed complete with the transmission as
an assembly. There is insufficient clearance in
the engine compartment to remove the engine
leaving the transmission in the vehicle. The
assembly is removed by raising the front of
the vehicle, and lowering the assembly from
the engine compartment.
4
Engine and
t r a n s m i s s i o n unit - removal,
separation and refitting
^
Note 1: The engine can be removed from
the car oniy as a complete unit with the
transmission; the two are then separated
tor overhaul. The engine/transmission unit is
lowered out of position, and withdrawn fmm
under the vehicle. Bearing this in mind, and
4.8a Unscrew th« bolts (arrowed) securing the fuse/relay
box upper and lower sections and the wiring harness block
connectors...
also bearing In mind the information contained procedure. Where differences are encoL
in Section 3, ensure the vehicle is raised
additional component disconnection or
sufficiently so that there is enough clearance
removal is necessary, make notes of the work
between the front of the vehicle and the floor
involved as an aid to refitting.
to allow the engine/transmission unit to be slid
Removal
out once It has t>een lowered out of position.
1 On models equipped with air conditioning,
Note 2: Such is the complexity of the power
have the air conditioning system fully
unit arrangement on these vehicles, and the
discharged by an air conditioning specialist.
variations that may be encountered according
to model and optional equipment fitted, that
2 Position the vehicle as described in Section 3,
the following should be regarded as a guide to
paragraph 2. and remove both front roadthe work involved, rather than a step-by-step
wheels. On petrol engine models, remove the
w4
4.8c . . . while at the same time
disconnecting the winng harness block
connectors
4.9b . , . then release the disconnected
wiring harness from the fuse/relay box
lower section so that it is free to be
removed with the engine
4.9a Undo the nut securing the earth
lead to the stud in front of the battery box
(arrowed)...
4,10 Disconnect the wiring block
T> the cooling fan module
above the cooling fans
right-hand wheel arch liner inner cover. On diesel
engine models, remove the engine undertray
3 Remove the bonnet and the front bumper
as described in Chapter 11.
4 Remove the plastic cover fnam the top of
the engine.
5 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
6 Carry out the following operations as
described in Chapter 1A or 1B, as applicable:
a) Drain the engine oil.
b) Drain the cooling system.
c) Remove the auxiliary drivebelt.
7 Remove the air cleaner assembly and intake
ducts as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, as
applicable.
8 Lfft off the cover from the engine
compartment fuse/relay box, and unscrew the
two bolts securing the upper section of the
fuse/relay box to the lower section. Undo the
three twits securing the engine wiring harness
block connectors to the fuse/relay box upper
section. Depress the tabs at each end and tift
the upper section off the lower section, while
at the same time disconnecting the three
block connectors (see illustrations).
9 Undo the nut securing the earth lead to the
stud in front of the battery box location. Release
tne Disconnected wiring harness from the lusa/
relay box lower section so that it is free to be
removed with the engine (see Illustrations).
10 Disconnect the wiring block connector
f'vm the cooling fan module above the cooling
fans (see illustration). Release the wiring
harness from the retaining clips so that it is
free to be removed with the engine.
11 Remove the air conditioning system
compressor as described in Chapter 3.
Petrol engine m o d e l s
12 Dépressurise the fuel system with
reference to Chapter 4A. then disconnect the
fuel supply pipe from the fuel rail and support
bracket. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
take adequate precautions. Clamp or plug the
open unions, to minimise further fuel loss.
4.14 Detach the additional relay box al the
left-hand side of the engine compartment diesel engines
4.16a Disconnect the heater element
wiring connector from the luel filter
4.16b . . . and tlie water level sensor
winng connector from the base of the filter
housing - diesel engines
4.17a Depress the retaining tangs and
detach the two fuel hose quick-release
connectors...
4.17b . . . then remove the hoses from the
fuel filler housing and cover diesel engines
a forked tool or flat-bladed screwdriver, and
carefully lever the gear selector inner cable
end fitting off the balljoinl on the selector lever
position switch. Pull back the retaining sleeve
and detach the outer cable from the mounting
bracket on the transmission.
4.19c . . . and disconnect the two wiring
connectors from the ECU - diesel engines
4.22 Lift up the wire clips and disconnect
the heater hoses from the matrix pipe stubs
13 Disconnect the brake vacuum servo hose,
and fuel evaporation purge hose.
Diesel e n g i n e m o d e l s
14 Detach the additional relay box at the
left-hand side of the engine compartment
and free the wiring harness so that it can be
removed with the engine {see Illustration).
15 Disconnect the brake vacuum sen/o hose
frcim the vacuum pump.
16 Disconnect the heater element wiring
connector from the fuel filter cover, and the
water level sensor wiring connector from the
base of the filter housing (see Illustrations).
17 Detach the two fuel hose quick-release
connectors and remove the hoses fnarn the
fuel filter housing and cover, A Vauxhail/
Opel special tool (KM-796-A) is available to
disconnect the hose connectors, but prcivlded
care is taken, the connections can be released
using two screwdrivers, a pair of long-nosed
pliers, or similar, to depress the retaining tangs
(see illustrations).
18 Once the two fuel hoses are disconnected,
suitably cover or plug the open connections to
prevent dirt entry.
19 Working under the front, right-hand side
of the oar, release the locking lever catch,
then lift the locking levers and disconnect
the two wiring connectors from the engine
management system ECU (see Illustrations).
All m o d e l s
20 Loosen the clips and remove the upper
and lower radiator hoses.
21 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the coolant hoses at the cooling system
expansion tank. Disconnect the wirmg
connector then remove the expansion tank
from its mounting bracket.
22 Using a small screwdriver, lift up the wire
clips securing the two heater hoses to the
heata- matrix pipe stubs, and disconnect the
hoses from the stubs (see illustration).
23 On manual transmission models (except
Easytronic), using a suitable forked tool,
release the gearchange selector cable end
fittings from the transmission selector levers.
Pull back the retaining sleeves and detach the
outer cables from the mounting bracket on the
24 On automatic transmission models, use
4.23a Release the selector inner cable
end fittings from the transmission selector
levers...
4.23b . . . t h e n pull back the retaining
sleeves and detach the outer cables from
the t r a n s m l s ^ n mounting bracket
25 Drain the transmission oil fluid as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 7.
26 Remove both driveshafts as described in
Chapter 8,
27 Position the steering with the front
roadwheels straight-ahead, and lock the
steering by removing the Ignition key.
28 Unscrew the nut and remove the bolt
securing the steering column Intermediate
shaft to the steering gear pinion shaft.
Separate the intermediate shaft from the
pinion shaft by pulling the intermediate shaft
upwards (see Itlustratlon)
29 On manual transmission models (except
Easytronic). remove the filler cap from the
brake/clutch fluid reservoir on the bulkhead,
then tighten it onto a piece of polythene. This
will reduce the loss of fluid when the clutch
hydraulic hose is disconnected. Alternatively,
fit a hose clamp to the flexible hose next
to the clutch hydraulic connection on the
transmission housing.
Caution: To prevant damage to the airliag
wiling contact unit/ the steering lock must
remain locked until the intermediate shaft
is re-attached to the pinion s/iaft.
30 Place some cloth rags beneath the hose,
then prise out the retaining clip securing the
clutch hydraulic hose to the end fitting on top
of the transmission bellhousing. Detach the
hose from the end fitting (see Illustrations).
Gently squeeze the two legs of the retaining
clip together and re-insert the retaining clip
back into position In the end fitting. Discard
4.28 Unscrew the nut and remove the boH
(arroweo) securing the steering column
intermediate shaft to the steering gear
pinion shaft
the sealing ring from the hose end; a new
sealing ring must be used on refitting. Plug/
cover both the end fitting and hose end to
minimise fluid loss and prevent the entry of
dirt into the hydraulic system. Note: Whilst
the hose Is disconnected, do not depress the
clutch pedal.
31 On automatic transmission models,
unscrew the central retaining bolt (or nut)
and detach the fluid cooler pipes from the
transmission. Suitably cover the pipe ends
and plug the transmission orifices to prevent
dirt entry,
32 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder
head, and support the weight of the engine/
33 Remove the front subframe as described
in Chapter 10.
34 Mark the position of the three bolts
securing the right-hand engine mounting
bracket to the engine bracket and undo the
bolts (see illustration). Note: There Is no need
to remove the mounting, since the engine/
transmission is lowered from the engine
compartment.
4.30a Pnse out the clip securing the clut^ti
hydraulic hose to the end fitting on the
4.J0b , , . then dotach thL IIC^L Irom the
end fitting
35 Mark the position of Ihe three bolls
securing the left-hand enoine mountina to tne
transmission bracket (see illustration).
36 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant pipes, hoses, wires, etc, have been
disconnected, and that they are positioned
clear of the engine and transmission,
37 With the help of an assistant, carefully
lower the engine/transmission assembly to
the ground. Make sure that the surrounding
components In the engine compartment are
not damaged. Ideally, the assembly should
be lowered onto a trolley jack or low platfonn
with castors, so that It can easily be withdrawn
from under the car.
38 Ensure that the assembly is adequately
supported, then disconnect the engine hoist
and lifting tackle, and withdraw the engine/
transmission assembly irom under the front of
the vehicle,
39 Clean away any external dirt using
paraffin or a water-soluble solvent and a stiff
bnjsh,
40 With reference to the relevant Part of
Chapter 7, unbolt the transmission from the
engine. Carefully withdraw the transmission
h-om the engine. On manual transmission
models, ensure that Its weight is not allowed
to hang on the input shaft while engaged
with the clutch friction disc. On automatic
transmission models, ensure that the tonjue
converter is removed together with the
transmission so that it remains engaged with
the oil pump. Note that the transmission
locates on dowels positioned in the rear of
the oyiinder block.
Refitting
41 With reference to the relevant Part ol
Chapter 7, relit the transmission to the engine
and tighten the bolts to the specified tonque,
42 With the front of the vehicle raised and
supported on axle stands, move the engine/
transmission assembly under the vehicle,
ensuring that the assembly is adequately
supported,
43 Reconnect the hoist and lifting tackle to
the engine lifting brackets, and carefully raise
the engine/transmission assembly up into
the engine compartment with the help of an
assistant.
44 Reconnect the right- and left-hand engine/
transmission mountings and tighten the bolts
to the specified torque given In the relevant
Part of this Chapter. Ensure that the marks
made on removal are correctly aligned when
tightening the retaining trolts.
45 Refit the front subframe as described in
Chapter 10,
46 Disconnect the hoist and lifting tackle
from the engine lifting brackets.
47 Refit the driveshafts as described in
Chapter 8.
48 On manual transmission models, refill the
transmission with correct quantity and type of
oil. as described in Chapter 7A or 7C,
49 Reconnect the steering c o l u m n
Intermediate shaft to the steering gear
pinion shaft and tighten the bolt and nut with
reference to Chapter 10.
50 On automatic transmission models,
reconnect the fluid cooler pipes together with
sion.
tn un manual itansmission models (except
Easytronic), reconnect and bleed the clutch
nvorauiic connection at tne transmission with
reference to Chapter 6.
B2 Refit the gearchange/selector outer
cket on the
transmission. ^naaQe tne inner cable end
tittinals) with the selector lover balljoint,
squeezing them together with pliers if
63 Push the securing wire clip back into
position on the heater hose end fittings, then
push the hoses back onto the matrix pipe
stubs. Ensure that the wire clips securely lock
the hoses in position.
54 Reft the cooling system expansion tank,
and reconnect the wiring connector and the
coolant hoses,
55 Reconnect the upper and lower radiator
hoses.
Petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
56 Reconnect the brake vacuum servo hose,
and fuel evaporation purge hose and fuel
supply pipe.
Diesel engine m o d e l s
57 Reconnect the two vacuum hoses at the
solenoid valve located above the radiator
58 Reconnect the brake vacuum servo hose
to the vacuum pump, and the fuel hoses and
vnring connectors at the fuel filter
59 Refit the additional relay box to its
location at the left-hand side of the engine
compartment and secure the wiring harness,
60 Reconnect the two wiring connectors to
the engine management system ECU.
All m o d e l s
61 Refit the air conditioning system
compressor as described in Chapter 3, then
refrt the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A or IB, as appllcable,.
62 Reconnect the wiring block connector to
the cooling fan module,
63 Locate the engine wiring harness biock
connectors back into position in the fuse/
relay box lower section. Refit the upper
section to the lower section ensuring that
the block connectors are pro peri y engaged.
Refit and tighten the ttiree bolts securing
the block connectors, and the two bolts
securing the upper section to the lower
section.
64 Reconnect the earth lead to the stud in
fnant of the battery box location and secure
with the retaining nut,
65 Refrt the air cleaner assembly and Intake
ducts as described in Chapter 4A or 48, as
applicable.
66 Refit the battery box and battery as
descnbed in Chapter 5A.
67 Refit the bonnet and the hont bumper as
described in Chapter 11.
68 Refit the right-hand wheel arch liner inner
cover, or engine undertray, and both front
roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the
ground,
69 Make a final cheok to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
conectly reconnected.
70 Refill the engine with oil with reference to
Chapter 1Aor IB, as applicable.
71 On automatic transmission models, refill
the transmission with correct quantity and
type of f uid, as described in Chapter 7B,
72 Refill and bleed the cooling system with
reference lo Chapter 1A or I B . as applicable.
73 On models equipped with air conditioning,
have the air conditioning system evacuated,
charged and leak-tested by the specialist who
discharged it.
5
Engine o v e r h a u l dismantling sequence
on the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheei/drivepiate
should be removed, so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase.
2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a
sturdy workbench, or on the ftoor. Be extra
careful not to tip or drop Ihe engine when
working without a stand,
3 It you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all the external components must be
removed first, to be transferred to the new
engine (just as they will if you are doing a
complete engine overhaul yourself). These
components include Ihe following;
aj Engine wiring harness and supports.
b) Alternator and air conditioning
compressor mounting brackets (as
applicable).
c) Coolant pump (wtiere applicable) and
inlet/outlet housings.
d) Dipstick tube.
e) Fuel system components.
f) All electrical switches and sensors.
g) inlet and exhaust manifolds and. where
fitted, the turbocharger
h) Oil filter and oil cooler/heat exchanger
i) Flywheei/drivepiate
Note: When removing the external components
from the engine, pay close attention to details
that may be helpful or important during
refitting. Note the fitted position of gaskets,
seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts, and other
small Items.
4 If you are obtaining a 'short' engine
(which consists of the engine cylinder
block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and
connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing
belt/chains (as applicable) wili have to be
removed also.
5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled, and the internal
components removed, in the order given
below.
Petrol
Diesel
ir to dismantle and work
engines
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapter 4A).
b) Timing belt/chain, sprockets, tensioner
and idler puiieys (see Chapter 2A
orZB).
c) Coolant pump (see Chapter 3).
d) Cylinder head (see Chapter 2A or 28).
e) Flywheei/drivepiate (see Chapter 2A
or2B).
f) Sump (see Chapter 2A or 2B).
g) Oit pump (see Chapter 2A or 2B).
h) Pistons/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 9).
i) Crankshaft (see Section 10).
engines
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapter 4B).
6.2 Using a valve spring compressor,
compress the valve spnng to relieve the
pressure on the collets
4 Extract the two SFriit collets by hooking
them out using a smalt screwdriver
6.% . . . and the spring . . .
b) Timing belt, sprockets, tensioner and idler
pulleys (see Chapter 2C or 2D).
c) Coolant pump (see Chapter 3).
d) Cylinder head (see Chapter 2C or 2D}.
e) Fly^heelldriveplate (see Chapter 2C
or 2D).
5 Sump (see Chapter 2C or 2DJ.
g) Oil pump (see Chapter 20 or 2D).
h) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 9).
I) Crankshaft (see Section 10).
6 Before beginning the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure that you
have all of the correct tools necessary.
See Tools and working facilities for further
information.
f 6
Ci^tnder h e a d dismantling
clean away all external dirt, and remove the
following components as applicable, if not
already done:
a) fvlanifolds (see Chapter 4A or4B).
b) Spark plugs petrol engines - see
Chapter 1A).
c) Glow plugs (diesel engines - see Chapter 5A).
d) Camshafts and and associated valve train
components (see Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C
or 2D).
e) Fuel injectors (diesel engines - see
Chapter 4B).
f) Engine lifting brackets.
2 To remove a valve, fit a valve spring
compressor tool. Ensure that the arms of
the compressor tool are securely positioned
on the head of ihe valve and the spring cap
(see illustration). The valves are deeplyr=r-acoed on petrol engines, and a suitable
Note: Nsw and reconditioned cylinder heads
are nvairauit: iiuiii i/iti manufacturer, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available.
It may be mora practical and economical
for the home mechanic to purchase a
reconditioned head rather than to dismantle,
Inspect and recondition the original head. A
valve spring compressor tool will be required
for this operation.
1 With the cylinder head removed as
described In the relevant Part of this Chafer,
6.6 Place each /.ilvc .i^.-.omb]y in a
labelled poly
„
inw
6.5a Remove the valve spring
6.Sd Using pliers, remove the valve stem
oil seal, which also incorporates the spring
seat on most engines
extension piece may be required for the spring
compressor.
3 Compress the valve spring to relieve the
pressure of the spring cap acting on the collets.
!Wi!f!'=t3l "
spring cap sticks to \
„ . " 1 1 . 1 'fte valve stem, support ttie '.
HllllTI compressor tool, and give t
'
' the end a light tap with a i
soft-faced mallet to help free the spring
i
4 Extract the two split collets by hooking them
out using a small screwdriver, then slowly
release the compressor tool (see illustration),
5 Remove the valve spring cap and the
spring, then withdraw the valve through the
combustion chamber. Using pliers, remove the
valve stem oil sea!, which also incorporates
the spring seat on most engines (see
illustrations). If the spring seat is not part of
the valve stem oil seal, hook it out using a
small screwdriver
6 Repeal the procedure for the remaining
valves, keeping all components In strict onjer
so that they can be rethted in their original
positions, unless all the components are to
be renewed, if the components are to be kept
and used again, place each valve assembly
in a labelled polythene bag or a similar small
container (see Illustration). Note that as with
cylinder numbering, the valves are normally
numbered fnsm the timing chain (or timing
belt) end of the engine. Make sure that the
valve components are identified as inlet and
exhaust, as well as numbered.
7.6 Using a straight-edge and feeler gauge
to check cylinder head surface distortion
:;7
Cylinder h e a d a n d v a l v e s cleaning and inspection
1 Thorough cleaning of fhe cylinder head and
value components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried
out during the engine overhaul. Note: If the
engine has been severely overheated, it is best
to assume that (fie cylinder head is warped checfc carefully for signs of this.
Cteaning
2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material from the oyiinder head.
3 Scrape away the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.
4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits
that may have formed on the valves, then
use a power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits ftom the valve heads and stems.
Inspection
Note: Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before conciuding
that the services of a machine sftop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
ail items that require attention.
Cylinder h e a d
5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6 Use a straight-edge and feeler gauge blade
to check that the cylinder head surface is
not distorted {see Illustration). If ft is, rt may
be possible to resurface it, provided that the
cylinder head Is not reduced to less than the
minimum specified height,
7 Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely
pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be reçut by an engine overhaul specialist.
If they are only slightly pitted, this can be
removed by grinding-ln the valve heads and
seats with fine valve-grinding compound, as
described below.
8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by
7.11 Using a micrometer lo I
stem diameter
a side-to-side motion of the valve, oversize
valve guides are available, and valves with
oversize stems can be fitted. Tliis wori< Is best
carried out by an engine overhaul specialist. A
dial gauge may be used to d e t ^ l n e whether
the amount of side play of a valve exceeds the
specified maximum.
9 Check the tappet bores in the oyiinder head
for wear If excessive wear is evident, the
cylinder head must be renewed. Also check
the tappet oil holes in the cylinder head for
obstroctions.
Valves
10 Examine the head of each valve for pitting,
burning, cracks and general wear, and check
the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges.
Rotate the valve, and check for any obvious
indication that rt is bent. Look for pitting and
excessive wear on ttie tip of each valve stem.
Renew any valve that shows any such signs of
wear or damage,
11 If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter
at several points using a micrometer {see
Illustration), Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
12 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-tight
seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it
has been reçut, fine grinding compound only
should be used to produce the required finish.
Coarse valve-grinding compound should not
be used unless a seat is badly burned or
deeply pitted; if this is fhe case, the cylinder
head and valves should be inspected by an
expert to decide whether seat recuttlng, or
even the renewal of the valve or seat Insert, is
required.
13 Valve grinding is canied out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a
bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
14 Smear a trace of the appropriate grade
of valve-grinding compound on the seat
face, and press a suctron grinding tool onto
the valve head. With a semi-rotary action,
grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the
valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding
compound (see illustration). A light spring
7.14 Grlnding-ln a valve
placed under the valve head will greatly ease
this operation,
15 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
Is produced on both the valve seal and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound and
repeat fhe process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind In the valves any furttier than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinda" head.
16 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent
tiefore reassembly of the cylinder head.
Valve c o m p o n e n t s
17 Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discoloration; if possible: also
compare the existing spring free length with
new components.
18 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
ctieck it for squareness. If any of the springs
are damaged, distorted or have lost their
tension, obtain a complete new set of springs.
8
Cylinder h e a d nbly
1 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and
insert them into their original locations (see
illustration). If new valves are being fitted,
insert them into the locations to which they
have been ground.
8.1 Lubrícate the valve s t ^ with bigine oil
and Insert the valve into the correct guide
8.2a Fit Ihe spring s<
2 Working on the first valve, refit the spring
seat if it is not an integral part of the valve
stem oil seal. Dip the new valve stan seal in
fresh engine oil, then carefully locate it over
the valve and onto the guide. Take care not to
damage the seal as it is passed over the valve
stem. Use a suitable socket or metal tube to
press the seal firmly onto the guide. Note: If
genuine sea/s are being fitted, use the oil seal
protector which is suf^lied with the seals; the
protector fits over the valve stem and prevents
the oil seal lip being damaged on the valve
(see illustrations)
3 Locate the spring on the seat and fit the
^ r i n g cap (see illustration).
4 Compress the valve spring, and locate the
split collets in the recess in the valve stem
w
HÍNT
m
8.2b . . . then fit the seal protector (>irtiere
supplied) to the valve . . .
8.2c . . . and install the new valve stem oil
seal...
8.3 Refit the valve spring and fit the spring
cap
8.4 Compress fiie valve and locate the
collets In the recess on the valve stem
(see illustration and Haynes Hint), I
the compressor, then repeat the procedure on
the remaining valves.
5 With ail the valves installed, support the
cylinder head on blocks on the bench and,
using a hammer and interposed block of
wood, tap the end of each valve stem to settle
the components.
6 Refii the components removed in Section G,
paragraph 1.
way round the cap fits an the rod, when
refitting.
4 Turn the crankshaft to bring pistons 1 and 4
to BDC (bottom dead centre),
5 Unscrew the bolts fnDm No 1 piston big-end
bearing cap, then take off the cap and recover
the bottom half-bearing shell. If the bearing
shells are to be re-used, tape the cap and the
shell together.
Caution: On some engines, the connecting
rod/bearing cap mating surfaces are not
machined flat; the big-end bearing caps
are 'cracked' off from the rod during
production and left untouched to ensure
the cap and rod mate perfectly. Where
this type of connecting rod Is fitted, great
care must be taken to ensure the mating
surfaces of the cap and rod are not marked
or damaged in anyway. Any damage to the
mating surfaces will adversely affect the
strength of the connecting rod and could
lead to premature failure.
9
Pistons/conneGting r o d s removal
^
Note: New connecting rod big-end cap bolts
will be needed on refitting.
1 Referring to the relevant Part of this
Chapter, remove the cylinder head and sump.
Where fitted, unbolt the pick-up/strainer from
the base of the oil pump.
2 if there is a pronounced wear ridge at
the top of any bore, it may be necessary to
remove it with a scraper or ridge reamer, to
avoid piston damage during removal. Such a
ridge indicates excessive wear of the cylinder
bore.
3 If the connecting rods and big-end caps
are not marked to indicate their positions in
the cylinder block {Ie, marked with cylinder
numbers), suitably mark both the rod and
cap with quick-drying paint or similar. Note
which side of the engine the marks face
and accurately record this also. There may
not be any other way of identifying which
6 Using a hammer handle, push the piston
up through the bore, and remove It from the
top of the cylinder block. Recover the bearing
shell, and tape it to the connecting rod for
safe-keeping.
7 Loosely refit the big-end cap to the
connecting rod, and secure with the nuts/
bolts - this will help to keep the components
in their conect order.
8 Remove No 4 piston assembly in the same
way.
9 Turn the crankshaft through 180° to bring
pistons 2 and 3 to BDC, and remove them in
the same way.
10.3 Check Ihe crankshaft endfloat using
a dial gauge . . .
/AO C r a n k s h a f t V.
removai
3^
Note: New main bearing cap bolts Will be
required on refitting.
1.8 litre
petrol
engines
1 VtorkingasdescribedinPartAofthisChapter,
remove the flywheel and the oil pump.
2 Remove the piston and connecting rod
assemblies as described in Section 9. If no work
is to be done on the pistons and connecting
rods, unbolt the caps and push the pistons far
enough up the bores that the connecting nxis
are positioned clear of the crankshaft journals.
3 Before removing the crankshaft, check the
endfloat using a dial gauge in contact with the
end of the crankshaft. Push the crankshaft
fully one way, and then zero the gauge. Push
the crankshaft fully the other way, and check
the endfloat (see illustration). The result
should be compared with the specified limit,
and will give an indication as to the size of the
main bearing shell thrust journal width which
will be required for reassembly
4 If a dial gauge is not available, a feeler
gauge can be used to measure crankshaft
endfloat. Push the crankshaft fully towards
one end of the crankcase. and insert a feeler
gauge between the thrust flange of the main
bearing shell and the machined surface of
the crankshaft web (see illustration). Before
measuring, ensure that the crankshaft is fully
forced towards one end of the crankcase,
to give the widest possible gap at the
measuring location. Note: Measure at tne
beanng with the thrustwasher (see Section 1
In Chapter 2A. 2B 2C or 2D).
5 The main bearing caps should be numbered
1 to 5 from the timing belt end of the engme
and all identification numbers should be the
right way up when read from the rear ot tne
cylinder block (see illustration). If the bearing
caps are not marked, using a hammer and
punch or a suitable marker pen, number the
caps from 1 to 5 from the timing belt end of
ihe engine and mark each cap to indicate its
correct fitted direction to avoid confusion on
refitting.
6 Working in a diagonal sequence, evenly and
larklngs (arrowed) - 1.8 litre petrol engine
progressively slacken the ten main bearing
cap retaining bolts by half a turn at a time until
all bolts are loose. Remove all the bolts,
7 Carefully remove each cap from the cylinder
tilock, ensuring that the lower main bearing
shell remains in position in the cap.
8 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking care
not to displace the upper main bearing shells
(see Illustration). Remove the oil seal and
discard It.
9 Recover the upper bearing shells from
the cylinder block, and tape them to their
respective caps for safe-keeping.
2.2
litre
petrol
engines
10 Working as described in Part B of this
Chapter, remove the flywheel/drtveplate and
the timing chains and sprockets.
11 Remove the piston and connecting
rod assemblies as described in Section 9,
If no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, unbo't the caps and push
the pistons 'ar enough up the bores that the
connecting rods are positioned clear of the
crankshaft journals.
12 Before removing the crankshaft, check the
endfloat as described in paragraphs 3 and 4.
13 Evenly and progressively slacken the
cylinder block lower casing retaining bolts
and remove the casing from the cylinder block
(see illustration). If the locating dowels are a
loose fit, remove them and store them with the
casing for safe-keeping.
14 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking
care not to displace the upper main bearing
shells. Remove the oil seat and discard it.
10.8 Removing the crankshaft1.8 litre petrol engines
15 Recover the upper beanng shells from
the cylinder block, and tape them to their
respective positions in the lower casing for
safe-keeping.
Diesel
engines
16 Working as described in Part C or D of this
Chapter (as applicable), remove the flywheel/
driveplate, oil pump and the crankshaft
left-hand oil seal housing.
17 Remove the piston and connecting
rod assemblies as described in Section 9,
If no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, unbolt the caps and push
the pistons far enough up the bores that the
connecting rods are positioned clear of the
crankshaft journals.
18 Before removing fhe crankshaft, check the
endfloat as described in paragraphs 3 and 4.
19 Check the main bearing caps for
identification markings. Normally, No 1
bearing cap (timing belt end) is not marked
and the remaining caps are numbered 1,11, III,
nil. The lug at the base of the cap is used to
identify the inlet manifold side of the engine
(see Illustrations). If the bearing caps are
not marked, using a hammer and punch or a
suitable marker pen, number the caps from 1
to 5 fti^m the timing belt end ofthe engine and
mark each cap to indicate its correct fitted
direction to avoid confusion on refitting.
20 Working in a diagonal sequence, evenly
and progressively slacken the ten main
t>earing cap retaining bolts by half a turn at a
time until all bolts are loose. Remove all the
bolts-
10.13 Lifting the cylinder block lower
casing irom tne cyiinaer block 2.2 mre petrol engines
10.19a Main bearing cap identification
marks (arrowed)...
1 0 . 1 » . . . a n d the lug at the base o l
the cap (arrowed) is used to identify the
inlet manifold side of the engine - diesel
engines
21 Carefully remove each cap from the
cylinder block, ensuring that the lower main
bearing shell remains in position in the cap.
22 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking
care not to displace the upper main bearing
shells.
23 Recover the UDoer bearing shells and
ihe ih rust was hers 'rom the cylinder block,
and tape them to their respective caps for
s;iii>..K(!(i[>irii:
4 If the block and lower casing (where
applicable) are extremely dirty, they should be
steam-cleaned.
5 If the components have been steamcleaned, clean all oil holes and oil galleries one
more time on completion. Flush all internal
passages with wanri water until the water runs
clear. Dry the block and, where necessary, the
lowercasing thonsughly and wipe all machined
surfaces with a light oil. If you have access to
compressed air, use It to speed-up the drying
process, and to blow out all the oil holes and
4 4 1 Cylinder b l o c k ft;: cleaning and inspection
Cleaning
1 For complete cleaning, remove all external
componenEs (aenoers, sensors, brackets, oil
pipes, coolant pipes, etc) from the cylinder
block.
2 Scrape ail traces of gasket and/or sealant
from the cylinder block and lower casing
(where applicable), taking particular care not
to damage the cylinder head and sump mating
faces.
3 Remove all oil gallery plugs, where fitted.
The plugs are usually very tight - they
may have to be drilled out and the holes
retapped. Use new plugs when the engine
is reassembled. On diesel engines, undo the
retaining bolts and remove the piston oil spray
nozzles from inside the cylinder block (see
Illustration)
A
Warning: Wear eye
protection
when using compressed air.
6 If the block and lower casing are relatively
clean, an adequate cleaning job can be
achieved with hot soapy water and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thonaugh
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thonsughly, dry everything completely, and
coat all cast-imn madiined surfaces with light
oil.
7 The threaded holes in the cylinder block
must be clean, to ensure accurate torque
readings when tightening fixings during
reassembly. Run the correct-size tap
(which can be determined from the size of
the relevant bolt) into each of the holes to
remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or
other contamlnatton, and to restore damaged
threads. If possible, use compressed air to
clear the holes of debris produced by this
operation. Do not forget to clean the threads
of all boifs and nuts which are to be re-used,
as well.
8 Where applicable, apply suitable sealant
to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them
Into the relevant holes in the cylinder block.
Tighten the plugs securely. On diesel engines,
refit the oil spray nozzles into the block and
secure with the retaining bolts tightened
securely.
12.2 Using a feeler blade tc
piston ring
9 If the engine Is to be left dismantled for
some time, cover the cylinder block with a
large plastic bag to keep if clean and prevent
corrosion. Where applicable, refit the lower
casing and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
11.3 On diesel engines unscrew the
retaining bolts and remove the piston oil
spray nozzles from the cylinder block
Inspection
10 Visually check the block for cracks, nist
and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in
the threaded holes. It's also a good idea to
have the block checked for hidden cracks
by an engine reconditioning specialist who
has the equipment to do this type of work,
especially if the vehicle had a history of
overheating or using coolant, if defects are
found, have the block repaired, If possible, or
renewed.
11 if in any doubt as to the condition of the
cylinder block, have it inspected and measured
by an engine reconditioning specialist. If the
tiores are worn or damaged, they will be able
to carry out any necessary reboring (where
possible), and supply appropriate oversized
pistons, etc.
12 P i s t o n s / c o n n e c t i n g r o d s inspection
^
iK-
1 Before the inspection process can begin,
the piston/connecting rod assemblies must be
cleaned, and the original piston rings removed
from the pistons. Note: Always use new piston
rings when the engine is reassembled.
2 Carefully expand the old rings over the top
of the pistons. The use of two or three old
feeler gauges will be helpful in preventing
the rings dropping into empty grooves (see
illustration). Take care, however, as piston
rings are sharp,
3 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the
top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush,
or a piece of fine e m ^ cloth, can be used
once the majority of the deposits have been
scraped away,
4 Remove the carbon from the ring gpDOves
in the piston, using an old ring. Break the ring
in half to do this (be careful not to cut your
fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be very
caraful to remove only the carbon deposits do not remove any metal, and do not nick or
scratch the sides of the ring grooves,
5 Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/connecting rod assembly
with paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry
thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes
In the ring grooves are clear
6 If the pistons and cylinder bores are not
damaged or worn excessively, and if the
cylinder block does not need to be rebored,
the original pistons can be refitted. Normal
piston wear shows up as even vertical wear
on the piston thrust surfaces, and slight
looseness of the top ring in its groove. New
piston rings should always be used when the
engine is reassembled.
7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
anaund the skirt, at the gudgeon pin tiosses,
and at the piston ring lands (between the ring
grooves).
8 Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust
faces of the piston skirt, holes in the piston
crown, and burned areas at the edge of
the crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed,
the engine may have been suffering from
overheating, and/or abnormal combustion
{'pinking') which caused excessively-high
operating temperatures. The cooling and
lubrication systems should be checked
thoroughly A hole in the piston crown, or
burned areas at the edge ot the piston crown
indicates that abnormal combustion (preignltion, 'pinking', knocking or detonation) has
been occurring. If any of the above problems
exist, the causes must be investigated and
conected, or the damage will occur again,
9 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of
pitting, indicates that coolant has been
leaking into the combustion chamber and/
or the crankcase. Again, the cause must be
conected, or the problem may persist in the
rebuilt enoine.
10 If in any doubt as to tho condition of
the pistons and
3d by an e
then
new part
, they will be able ti3 supply a
ate-sized pistons/rit
13 Crankshaftinspection
1 Clean the crankshaft using paraffin or a
suitable solvent, and dry it, preferably with
compressed air if available. Be sure to clean
the oil holes with a pipe cleaner or similar
probe, to ensure that they are not obstmcted.
A
Warning: Wear eye
protection
wtjen using compressed air.
2 Check the main and big-end bearing
journals for uneven wear, scoring, pitting and
cracking.
3 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied by
distinct metallic knocking when the engine
Is running (particularly noticeable when the
engine is pulling from low revs), and some
k>ssof oil pressure,
4 Main bearing wear is accompanied by
severe engine vibration and rumble - getting
progressively worse as engine revs increase and again by loss of oil pressure.
5 Check the bearing journal for roughness by
ronning afingeriightly over the bearing surface.
Any roughness (which will be accompanied
by obvious bearing wear) indicates that the
crankshaft requires regrinding,
6 If the crankshaft has been reground, check
for bun-s around the crankshaft oil holes (the
holes are usually chamfered, so buns should
not t>e a problem unless regrinding has been
earned out carelessly). Remove any burrs with
a fine file or scraper, and thoroughly clean the
oil holes as described previously,
7 Have the crankshaft journals measured
by an engine reconditioning specialist. If the
crankshaft is worn or damaged, they may be
able to regrind the journals and supply suitable
undersize bearing shells. If no undersize shells
are avaiiabie and the crankshaft has worn
beyond the specified limits, it will have to be
renewed. Consult your Vauxhall/Opei dealer
or engine reconditioning specialist for further
information on paris availability.
8 If a new crankshaft is to be fttted, undo the
screws securing the crankshaft speed/position
sensor pulse pick-up ring to the crankshaft,
and transfer the ring to the new crankshaft
(see illustration).
14 M a i n a n d b i g - e n d bearings inspection
^
^
1 Even though the main and big-end bearings
should be renewed durinq the engine overhaul,
the old beatings should be retained for close
examination, as they may reveal valuable
inlormatlon about ttio condilion of the engine,
2 Beating failure occurs because of lack
of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine, ot
con-osion (see lllustratton). If a bearing fails,
the cause must be tounO and eliminated
assembled, to prevent
•Q ffO lappenii jagair
3 To examine the bearing shells, remove Ihem
from the cylinder block, the main tieating caps
or cylinder block lower casing, the connecting
tods and the big-end bearing caps, and lay
them out on a clean surface In the same orcler
as they were fitted to the engine. This will
enable any bearing problems to be matched
with the conesponding crank^aft journal.
4 Dirt and other foreign particles can enter
the engine in a variety of ways. Contamination
may be left in the engine during assembly, or
it may pass through fifters or the crankcase
ventilation system. Normal engine wear
produces small particles of metal, which can
eventually cause problems. If particles find
their way into the lubrication system, it is
likely that they will eventually be carried to the
bearings. Whatever the source, these foreign
particles often end up embedded in the soft
bearing material, and are easily recognised.
Large particles v^ll not embed in the bearing.
13.8 Transfer the crankshaft speed/
position sensor pulse pick-up ring to the
new crankshaft
and will score or gouge the bearing and
journal. To prevent possible contamination,
clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything
spotlessly-clean during engine assembly Once
the engine has been installed in the vehicle,
ensure that engine oil and filter changes are
carried out at the recommended intervals.
5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from the
bearing face), and oil leakage (from excessive
beanng clearances, worn oil pump or high
engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which
may be the result of misaligned oil holes in a
bearing shell, will also starve a bearing ot oil
and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the
cause of bearing failure, the bearing material
is wiped or extruded from the steal backing of
the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the
point where the steel backing turns blue fnxn
overheating.
e Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads on
FATIGUE FAILURE
IMPROPER SEATINtS
14.2 Typical bearing failures
all necessary new parts have been obtained
(particularly gaskets, and various bolts which
must be renewed), and that all the tools
required are available. Read through the
entire procedure to familiarise yourself with
the work involved, and to ensure that all items
necessary for reassembly of the engine are
to hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, a thread-locking compound will
be required. A tube of suitable sealant will be
required to seal certain Joint faces which are
not fitted with gaskets.
6.4 Measuring a piston ring end gap
using a feeler gauge
bearings, whicli tends to squeeze out tfie oil
film. These loads cause the bearings to flex,
which produces tine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bearing
material will loosen in places, and tear away
from the steel backing. Regular short journeys
can lead to corrosion of bearings, because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off the condensed water and corrosive gases
which form inside the engine. These products
collect in the engine oil, forming acid and
sludge. As the oil is carried to the bearings,
the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing
material.
7 Incon-ect bearing Installation during engine
assembly will also lead to bearing failure.
Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing
lubrication clearance, and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell results in high spots on
the bearing which can lead to failure.
8 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface
with your fingers during reassembly; there is
a risk of scratching the delicate suri'ace, or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.
a As mentioned at the beginning of this
Section, the bearing shells should be renewed
as a matter of course during engine overhaul;
to do otherwise is false economy.
15 Engine overhaul reassembly sequence
16.9 Fitting the oil control spreader ring
2 In under to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be earned out in the
following oreien
1.6 litre petrol
engines
a) Piston rings (see Section 16).
b) Crankshaft (see Section 7 7).
c) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 18).
d) Oil pump (see Chapter 2A).
a) Sump (see Chapter 2A).
f) Flywheel (see Chapter 2A).
g) Cylinder head (see Chapter 2A).
h) Coolant pump (see Chapter 3).
i) Timing belt and sprockets (see Chapter 2A).
i) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapir4A).
2.2 litre
petrol
engines
a) Piston rings (see Section 16).
b) Crankshaft (see Section 17).
c) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 18).
d) Sump (see Chapter 2B).
e) Fiywheei/driveplate (see Chapter 2B).
f) Cylinder head (see Chapter 2Bj.
g) Coolant pump (see Chapter3).
h) Timing chains and sprockets (see Chapter 2B).
I) Timing chain cover (see Chapter 2B).
i) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapter 4 A).
Diesel
engines
a) Piston rings (see Section 16).
b) Crankshaft (see Section 17).
c) Pistons/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 18).
d) Cylinder head (see Chapter 20 or 2D).
e) Oil pump (see Chapter 2C or 2D),
fl Sump (see Chapter 2C or 2D).
a) Fiywheei/driveplate (see Chapter 2C
or 2D).
It] Coolant pump (see Chapter 3).
II Timing belt, sprockets, tensioner and idler
pulleys (see Chapter 20 or 2D).
j) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapter 48).
3 At this stage, all engine components should
be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults
repaired. The components should be laid out
(or in Individual containers) on a completely
clean work surface.
16 P i s t o n rings refitting
1 Before refitting the new piston rings, the
ring end gaps must be checked as follows.
2 Lay out the piston/connecting rod
assemblies and the new piston ring sets, so
that the ring sets will be matched with the
same piston and cylinder during the end
gap measurement and subsequent engine
3 Insert the top ring into the first cylinder, and
push it down the bore slightly using the top
of the piston. This will ensure that the ring
remains square with the cylinder wails. Push
the ring down into the bore until it is positioned
16 to 20 mm down from the top edge of the
bore, then withdraw the piston.
4 Measure the end gap using feeler gauges,
and compare the measurements with the
figures given in the Specifications (see
Illustration).
5 If the gap is too small (unlikely If genuine
Vauxhall/Opel parts are used), it must be
enlarged or the ring ends may contact each
other during engine operation, causing serious
damage. Ideally, new piston rings pnaviding the
correct end gap should be fitted, but as a last
resort, the end gap can be Increased by filing
the ring ends very carefully with a fine file. Mount
the file in a vice equipped with soft jaws, slip the
ring over the file with the ends contacting the
file face, and slowly move the ring to remove
material irom tfie ends - take care, as piston
rings are sharp, and are easily broken.
6 With new piston rings, it is unlikely that the
end gap will be too large. If they are loo large,
check that you have the conect rings for your
engine and for the particular cylinder bore
7 Repeat the checking procedure for each
ring in the first cylinder, and then for the rings
in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep
rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
8 Once the ring end gaps have been checked
and it necessary corrected, the rings can be
fitted to the pistons.
9 The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is composed of three sections, and
should be installed first. Fit the lower steel
ring, then the spreader ring, followed by the
upper steel ring (see illustration).
10 With the oil control ring components
installed, the second (middle) ring can be
fitted. It is usually stamped with a mark (JOP)
which must face up, towards the top of the
piston. Note: Always follow the instructions
supplied with the new piston ring sets different manufacturers may specify different
procedures. Do not mix up the top and middle
rings, as they have different cross-sections.
Using two or three old feeler blades, as for
removal of the old rings, carefully slip the ring
into place in the middle groove,
11 Fit the top ring In the same manner,
ensuring that, where applicable, the mark on
the ring is facing up. If a stepped ring is being
fitted, fit the ring with the smaller diameter of
the step uppermost.
12 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
pistons and nngs.
17 C r a n k s h a f t refitting
Note: It
beanng shells are fitted regardless of the
condition of the onginat ones.
1 Refitting the cranltshaft is the first step
In the engine reassembly procedure. It is
assumed at this point that the cylinder block,
cylinder block lower casing (where applicable)
and crankshaft have been cleaned, inspected
and repaired or reconditioned as necessary,
2 Position the cylinder block with the sump/
lower casing mating face uppermost,
3 Clean the bearing shells and the bearing
recesses in both the cylinder block, cylinder
block lower casing (where applicable) and the
caps. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that
all traces of the protective grease are cleaned
off using paraffin. Wipe the shells dry with a
clean lint-free cloth,
4 Note that the crankshaft endfloat is
controlled by thrustwashers located on one
of the main bearing shells. The thmstwashers
may be separate or incorporated into, or
attached to, the bearing shells themselves.
5 If the original bearing shells are being
re-used, they must be refitted to their original
locations in the block or caps.
6 Fit the upper main bearing shells in place
in the cylinder block, ensuring that the tab on
each shell engages in the notch in the cylinder
block (see Illustration). Where separate
thrustwashers are fitted, use a little grease
to stick them to each side of their respective
bearing upper location; ensure that the oilway
gnwves on each thrustwasher face outwards
(away from the block).
1.8 litre
petrol
17.6 ntdng a main bearing shell to the
cylinder block
13 Once all bolts are tightened to the specified
Stage 1 torque, go around again and tighten
all bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle
then go around for once more and tighten all
bolts through the specified Stage 3 angle. It is
recommended that an angle-measuring gauge
is used during the final stages of the tightening,
to ensure accuracy (see illustration). If a
gauge is not available, use vrtiite paint to make
alignment marks between the boit head and
cap prior to tightening; the marks can then be
used to check that the bolt has been rotated
through the correct angle.
14 Once all the bolts have been tightened.
17.7 Ubricate the upper bearing Shells
with clean engine oil then fit the crankstiaft
- 1 . 8 litre petrol engines
inject more sealant down the grooves in the
roar main bearing cap until sealant is seen lo
be escaping through the joints. Once you are
sum the cap grooves are full of sealant, wipe
off all excess sealant using a clean cloth.
15 Check that the crankshaft is free to rotate
smoothly; if excessive pressure is required
to turn the crankshaft, investigate the cause
before proceeding further
16 Check the crankshaft endfloat with
reference to Section 10.
17 Refit/reconnect the piston connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft as described in
Section 18.
18 Refemng to Part A of this Chapter fit a new
left-hand crankshaft oil seal, then refit the oil
pump. sump, flywheel, cylinder head, timing
belt sprocket(s) and fit a new timing belt.
17.10 Lubricate the crankshaft journals
then refit bearing caps Nos 1 to 4 1.8 litre petrol engines
17.11 Fill the side grooves of No 5 bearing
cap with sealant prior to refitting it to ttie
engine - 1 , 8 litre petrol engines
17.12 Tighten the bolts to the specified
Stage 1 t o n ^ e setting . . .
17.13 . . . and then through the specified
Stages 2 and 3 angles - 1.8 litre petrol
engines
12 Working in a diagonal sequence hom the
centre outwands, tighten the main bearing cap
bolts to the specified Stage 1 torque setting
engines
7 Liberally lubricate each bearing shell in the
cylinder block, and lower the crankshaft into
position (see Illustration).
8 If necessary, seat the crankshaft using light
taps from a soft-faced mallet on the crankshaft
tjalance webs.
9 Fit the bearing shells into the bearing caps.
10 Lubricate the bearing shells in the bearing
caps, and the crankshaft journals, then fit
Nos 1, 2, 3 and 4 bearing caps, and tighten
the new bolts as far as possible by hand (see
Illustration).
11 Ensure No 5 bearing cap is clean and dry
then fill the groove on each side of the cap with
sealing compound (Vauxhall/Opel recommend
the use of sealant, part No 90485251, available
from your dealer) (see illustration). Fit the
bearing cap to the engine, ensuring it is fitted
the correct way around, and tighten the new
bolts as far as possible by hand.
17.22 Apply a continuous bead ot sealant
(arrowed) to tlie groove (n the cylinder
block - 2.2 litre petrol engines
2.2 litre petrol
engirtes
19 Liberally lubricate each bearing shell in
the cylinder block, and lower the crankshaft
into position.
20 If necessary, seat the crankshaft using
light taps from a soft-faced mallet on the
crankshaft balance webs.
21 Fit the bearing shells into the cylinder
block lower casing.
22 Ensure that the cylinder block and lower
casing mating surfaces are clean and dry, then
apply a 2 to 5 mm diameter bead of sealant
to the groove in the cylinder block (see
Illustration). Vauxhall/Opei recommend the
use of sealant, part No 90543772, available
from your dealer
23 Locate the lower casing over the
crankshaft and onto the cyiinder block.
24 Fit the twenty new MIO bolls and the
ten MS bolts and lighten fhe bolts as far as
possible by hand.
25 Working in a diagonal sequence from the
centre out wanjs, tighten the twenty MIO lower
casing bolts to the specified Stage 1 torque
setting.
26 Once all MID bolts are tightened to the
specified Stage 1 tongue, go around again and
tighten them through the specified Stage 2
angle then go around once more and tighten
them through the specified Stage 3 angle, II is
recommended that an angle-measuring gauge
IS used during the final stages of the tightening,
to ensure accuracy (see Illustration). If a
gauge is not available, use white paint to
make alignment marks between the bolt head
17.26 Tightenmg the cylinder block lower
casing bolts through the specifled angles 2.2 litre petrol engines
and casing pnor to tightening; the marks can
then be used to check that the t>oit has been
rotated through the conect angle.
27 After tightening all the MIO bolts, tighten
the M8 bolts to the specified torque, working
in a diagonal sequence from the centre
outwards.
28 Check that the crankshaft is free to rotate
smoothly; if excessive pressure is required
to turn the crankshaft, investigate the cause
before pnaceeding further.
29 Check the crankshaft endfioat with
reference to Section 10,
30 Refit/reconnect the piston connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft as descrit>ed in
Section 18.
31 Referring to Part B of this Chapter, fit a
new left-hand crankshaft oil seat, then refit the
sump, flywheei/drivepiate, cyiinder head, and
the timing chains and sprc>ckets.
Diesel
engines
32 Liberally lubricate each bearing shell in
the cylinder block, and lower the crankshaft
into position.
33 If necessary, seat the crankshaft using
light taps from a soft-faced mallet on the
crankshaft balance webs.
34 Fit the bearing shells into the bearing caps.
35 Lubricate the bearing shells in the bearing
caps, and the crankshaft journals, then fit the
caps ensunng they are fitted to their correct
locations and the nght way around. Fit and
V bolts a far I ; possible by
36 Working in a spiral pattern from the centre
outwards, tighten Ihe main bearing cap bolts
to the specified Stage 1 tongue setting.
37 Once all bolts are tightened to the
specified Stage 1 torque, go around again and
tighten all bolts through the specitied Stage
2 angle. If is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy.
If a gauge is not available, use white paint to
make alignment marks t>6tween the bolt head
and cap prior to tightening; the marks can
then be used to check that the t>olt has been
rotated through the correct angle.
38 Check thai the crankshaft is free to rotate
smoothly; if excessive pressure Is required
to turn the crankshaft, investigate the cause
before proceeding further.
39 Check the crankshaft endfloat with
reference to Section 10.
40 Refit/reconnect the piston connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft as described in
Section 18.
41 Refening to Part C or D of this Chapter, fit a
new left-hand crankshaft oil seal/housing, then
refit the oil pump, sump, flywheefdriveplate,
cylinder head, timing belt sprocket(s) and fit a
new timing bell.
18 P i s t o n s / c o n n e c t i n g r o d s relitting
Petrol
18.2 Fit the bearing shells making sure
their labs are conectly located In the
connecting rod/cap groove (an-owed)
8.3 Lubricate the piston rings with clean
engine oil
|>
Note: It is recommended that new big-end
bearing shells are fitted regardless of the
condition of the original ones.
1 Clean the backs of the big-end beanng
shells and the recesses in the connecting
njds and big-end caps. If new shells are being
fitted, ensure that all traces ot the protective
grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe the
shells, caps and connecting rods dry with a
lint-free cloth.
2 Press the bearing shells into their locations,
ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in
the notch in the connecting rod and cap (see
Illustration). If there is no tab on the bearing
shell (and no notch in the rod or cap) position
the shell equidistant from each side ol the rod
and cap. If the original beanng shells are being
used ensure they aro refitted in their original
locations.
3 Lubncate the bores, the pistons and piston
rings then lay out each piston/connecting
rod assembly in its respective position (see
engines
4 Lubncate No 1 piston and piston rings,
and check that the ring gaps are correctly
positioned. The gaps in the upper and lower
steel nngs of the oil control nng should be
offset by 25 to 50 mm to the right and left
of the spreader ring gap. The two upper
compression ring gaps should ba offset by
1 SO" to each other (see IIIustation).
5 Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston, then
^8Sa Ensure the piston ring end gaps
are correctly spaced then fit the ring
compressor - petrol engines
18,5b Ensuring the arrow on flie piston
crmm (circled) is pointing towards the
timing belt end ot the engine - petrol engines
18.5c Tap the piston gently into the bore
using handle of a hammer - petrol engines
18,6 Make sure the lug (arrowed) Is facing
the flywheel/drive plate end of the engine petrol engines
through the specified Stage 2 angle, and
finally through the specified Stage 3 angle.
It is recommended that an angle-measuring
gauge is used during the final stages of the
tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a gauge
is not available, use white paint to make
alignment marks between the bolt head and
cap prior to tightening; the mai1
Very difficult,
suitable for expert ;
DIY or professional
Specifications
Tiiermostat
Opening temperatures:
Petrol engines;
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engines
92°C
82°C
90°C
Air conditioning c o m p r e s s o r
Lubricant capacity;
Petrol engines
Diesel engines
120 cc
135cc
Lubricant type (synthetic PAG fluid)
Vauxhail part number 90 509 933/19 49 873
Torque w r e n c h settings
Petrol engine models
Air conditioning compressor mounting bolts
Air conditioning refrigerant pipe block connections
Coolant pump retaining bolts:
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Coolant pump pulley bolts (1.8 litre Zl 8XER engines)
Coolant pump sprocket bolts (2.2 litre engines)
Coolant temperature sensor
Radiator mounting brackets to subframe
Themiostaf housing/cover:
1.8 litre engines:
Z18XE engines
ZISXER engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
Air conditioning compressor mounting bolts
Air conditioning réfrigérât pipe block connections
Coolant pump retaining bolts
Coolant temperature sensor
Radiator mounting brackets to subframe
Thennostat housing/cover
Nm
ibffi
20
20
15
15
8
23
20
8
20
15
6
17
15
6
15
11
20
8
8
15
6
6
20
20
25
20
15
25
15
15
18
15
11
18
1
9
8
3
4
1
Genera! i n f o r m a t i o n
and precautions
The cooling system is of pressurised type,
comprising a coolant pump, a crossflow
radiator, electric cooling fan, and thermostat.
The coolant pump is driven by the auxiliary
drrvsbelf on 1.8 litre Z18XER petrol engines.
On 2.2 litre petrol engines, the coolant pump
Is dnven by the balancer shaft drive chain.
On diesel engines and 1,8 litre Z18XE petrcil
engines the coolant pump is driven by the
timing belt.
The system functions as follows. Cold
coolant from the radiator passes thn^ugh the
bottom hose to the coolant pump, where It
is pumped around the cylinder block, head
passages and heater matrix. Alter cooling
the cylinder bores, combustion surfaces and
valve seats, the coolant reaches the underside
of the thermostat, which Is initially closed.
The coolant passes Ihnaugh the heater, and is
returned to the coolant pump.
When the engine is cold, the coolant
circulates only through the cylinder block,
cylinder head and heater When the coolant
reaches a predetermined temperature, the
thermostat opens and the coolant also passes
through to the radiator As the coolant circulates
through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush
of air when Ihe car is in lonward motion. Ajrtlow
is supplemented by the action of the electric
cooling fan when necessary. Once the coolant
has passed through the radiator, and has
cooled, the cycle Is repeated.
On 1.8 litre 218XER petrol engines, an
electrically-assisted thermostat is fitted.
Engine coolant temperature is monitored by
the engine management system electronic
control unit, via the coolant temperature
sensor In coniunction with information
received from various other engine sensors,
the thermostat opening temperature can be
controlled according to engine speed and
load. During normal engine operation the
thermostat operates conventionally Under
conditions of high engine speed and load, an
electric heating element within the thermostat
Is energised, to cause the thermostat to open
at a lower temperature (typically 90°).
The electric cooling fan, mounted on the
rear of the radiator, is controlled by the engine
management system electronic control unit,
in conjunction with a cooling fan module, At
a predetermined coolant temperature, the fan
is actuated An auxiliary electric cooling Ian is
frtted to models with air conditioning.
An expansion tank is fitted to the lefthand side of the engine compartment to
accommodate expansion of the coolant when
hot.
Warning: Do not attempt to romove
tha expansion (anłt filler cap, or
' disturb any part of tfie cooling
system, while the engine is hot; there is
a high risk of scalding. If the cap must be
A
removed before the engine and radiator
have fully cooled (even though this is not
recommended) the pressure in the cooling
system must first be relieved. Cover the cap
with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding,
and slowly unscrew the filler cap until a
hissing sound can be heard. When the hissing
has stopped, indicating that the pressure has
reduced, stoiviy unscrew the filler cap until it
can be removed; if more hissing sounds are
heard, wait until they have stopped before
unscrewing the cap completely. At all times,
keep well away from the filier cap opening.
• Do not allow antifreeze to come into
contact with the skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills
Immediately, with plenty of water. Never
leave antifreeze lying around in an open
container, or in a puddle on the driveway
or garage floor. Children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze
can be fatal if ingested.
• If the engine is hot, the electric cooling
fan may start rotating even H the engine is
not running; be careful to keep hands, hair
and loose clothing well dear when working
in the engine compartment.
• Refer to Section 10 for precautions to
be observed when working on models
equipped with eir conditioning.
2
Cooling system hoses disconnection and renewal
%
^i;^-
Note: Refer (o the warnings given In Section 1
of this Chapter before proceeding. Do not
attempt to disconnect any hose while the
system is still hat.
1 If the checks described in Chapter 1A or 1B
reveal a faulty hose, it must be renewed as
follows,
2 First drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1A
or 1B). If the coolant is not due for renewal, it may
be re-used If It is collected in a clean container
3 Before disconnecting a hose, first note
Its routing m the engine compartment, and
whether it is secured by any additional
retaining clips or cable-ties. Use a pair of
pliers to release the clamp-type clips, or a
screwdriver to slacken the screw-type clips.
3.9 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the wiring harness connector from the
cooling fan module
then move the clips along the hose, clear of
the relevant Inlet/outlet union. Carefully wori<
the hose free.
4 Depending on engine, some of the hose
attachments may be of the quick-release type.
Where this type of hose Is encountered, lift the
ends of the wire retaining clip, to spread the
clip, then withdraw the hose from the inlet/
outlet union.
5 Nets that the radiator inlet and outlet unions
are fragile; do not use excessive foroe when
attempting to remove the hoses. If a hose
proves to be difficult to remove, try to release
it by rotating the hose ends before attempttng
to free it.
6 When fitting a hose, first slide the clips onto
the hose, then work the hose into position. If
clamp-type clips were originally fitted, it Is a
good idea to use screw-type clips when refitting
the hose. If the hose Is stiff, use a little soapy
water (washing-up liquid is kleal) as a lubricant
or soften the hose by soaking it in hot water,
7 Work the hose into position, checking that
it is conectly routed and secured. Slide each
clip along the hose until it passes over the
flared end of the relevant inlet/outlet union,
before tightening the clips securely
8 Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter l A o r l B .
9 Check thoroughly for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system,
3
Radiator-
^
removal, inspection
and refitting
^
Note: The radiator is removed from below,
complete vi/ith the cooling fan assembly.
Removal
Petrol engine m o d e l s
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover fnam the top of
the engine
3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
4 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter n .
5 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A.
6 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described In Chapter 4A.
7 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the top hose and expansion tank hose fmm
the radiator.
8 Where fitted, disconnect the wiring connector
from the coolant temperature sensor located
on the lower left-hand side of the radiator,
9 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect the
wiring harness connector from the cooling
fan module at the top of the fan housing (see
illustration). Free the wiring harness from the
cable-ties.
3.10a Slacken the bott
the radiator left-hand . .
10 Slacken (but do not remove) the two bolts
securing the radiator left-hand and right-hand
moiinting brackets to the subframe {see
illustrations).
11 Release the radiator upper rubber
mounting bushes on each side from their
guides, and carefully move the top of the
radiator forward.
12 Release the clamp and disconnect the
bottom hose frcim the radiator.
13 On models with air conditioning, undo the
bolt each side securing the condenser upper
mounting brackets to the radlatw. Carefully lift
up or remove the plastic panels on each side of
the radiatcw for improved access, if necessary.
Suitably secure the condenser to the upper
body panel using cable-ties or similar, to retain
It in place when the radiator Is removed.
14 On models with automatic transmission,
detach the protective hng (where fitted) over the
fluid cooler pipe unions at ttie radiator. Using
a small screwdriver, release the quick-release
fitting retaining lugs and disconnect the fitting
from the radiator. Suitably cover the open
unions atter disconnection.
15 Check that all hoses, and connections
are released fnsm the radiator in the engine
compartment, then engage the help of an
assistant to support the radiator.
16 Remove the two bolts securing the
radiator left-hand and right-hand mounting
brackets to the subframe and carefully lower
the radiator down and out from under the car
{see Illustration). Disengage the condenser
lower mounting lugs from the radiator as the
radiator is lowered.
brackets to the subframe
3 J 4 Release the retaining clip (arrowed)
and disconnect the expansion tank hose
from the top of the radiator
3 ^ Undo the Intercooler left-hand charge
air pipe upper retaining bolt (arrowed)
22 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1B
23 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described m Chapter 4B.
24 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the expansion tank hose from the top of the
radiator (see illustration).
25 Release the two retaining clips and
disconnect the top hose from the radiator and
thennostat housing.
26 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the wiring harness connector from the cooling
fan module at the top of the fan housing (see
illustration 3.9). Free the wiring harness trom
the cable-ties.
27 Slackenthetworetalnlngclipsandremove
the upper charge air hose from the turbocharger, and intercooler right-hand charge air
pipe.
28 Slacken the two retaining clips and
disconnect the upper charge air hose from
the throttle body/housing, and intercooler
left-hand charge air pipe.
29 Undo the intercooler left-hand charge air
pipe upper retaining bolt (see illustration).
30 Slacken the retaining clips and remove
the left-hand and right-hand lower charge
air hoses fnam the intercooler and charge air
pipes (see Illustrations)
31 Slacken (but do not remove) the two bolts
securing the radiator left-hand and right-hand
mounting brackets to the subframe (see illustrations 3.10a and 3.10b).
32 Release the radiator upper rubber
mounting bushes on each side from their
guides, and carefully move the top of the
radiator forward.
33 Undo the bolt securing the intercooler
Diesel engine m o d e l s
17 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
18 Remove the plastic cover from tiie top of
the engine.
19 Apply the handbrake, ttien jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacliing and vehicle support).
Undo the ten bolts and remove the engine
undertray
20 Remove the front bumper as descnbed in
Chapter 11.
21 Remove the headlights as described in
Chapter 12.
3.3ab . . . and nght-hand lower charge air
hoses from the intercooler and charge air
pipes
3.33 Undo the botHarrowed) securing
the intercooler right-hand charge air pipe
upper mounting to the radiator
right-hand charge air pipe upper mounting to
the radiator (see Illustration).
34 Undo the bolt each side securing the
intercooler left-hand and right-hand charge
air pipe lower mountings to the radiator (see
niustrations).
35 Release the clamp and disconnect the
bottom hose from the radiator,
36 On models with air conditioning, undo the
two bolts secunng the receiver-dryer to the
right-hand side of the radiator (see lUustration),
37 Undo the bolt each side securing the
intercooler upper mounting bracl^ets to the
radiator (see illustration). Carefully lift up or
remove the plastic panels on each side of the
radiator for improved access, if necessary.
Suitably secure the intercooler to the upper
tcdy panel using cable-ties or similar, to retain
it In place when the radiator is removed.
38 On models with automatic transmission,
detacbthepnatectivering (where fitted) overthe
fluid cooler pipe unions at the radiator Using
a small screwdriver, release the puicl<-release
fitting retaining lugs and disconnect the fitting
from the radiator Suitably cover the open
unions after disconnection.
39 Check that all hoses, and connections
are released from the radiator in the engine
compartment, then engage the help of an
assistant to support the radiator
40 Remove the two bolts securing tbe
radiator left-hand and right-hand mounting
brackets to the subframe and carefully lower
the radiator down and out from under the
car (see illustration 3.16). Disengage the
3.36 On models with air conditioning,
undo the two bolts (arrowed) securing the
receiver-dryer to the radiator
3.34a Undo the bolt (arrowed) securing the
intercooler left-hand . . .
Inspection
41 If the radiator has been removed due
to suspected blockage, reverse-flush it as
described in Chapter 1A or 1B.
42 Clean dirt and debris from the radiator
fins, using an airline (in which case, wear eye
protection) or a soft brush.
Caution: Be carefui, as the fins are easily
damaged, and are sharp.
43 If necessary, a radiator specialist can
perform a 'flow test' on the radiator, to
establish whetiier an internal blockage exists.
44 A leaking radiator must be refened to a
specialist for permanent repair Do not attempt
to weld ot solder a leaking radiator
45 In an emergency minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured by using a suitable radiator
sealant (in accordance with its manufacturer's
instructions) with the radiator fitted in the
vehicle,
46 Inspect the radiator mounting rubbers,
and renew them if i
Refitting
47 Refitting is a reversal of removai, beanng
in mind the following points.
Ensure that the intercooler or condenser (as
applicable) lower mountings are conectly
engaged with the radiator when refitting,
b) Ensure that all hoses are correctly
reconnected, and their retaining clips
securely tightened.
3,37 Undo the bolt (arrowed) each side
securing the intercooler upper mounting
brackets to the radiator
3.34b . . . and right-hand charge air pipe
lower mountings to the radiator
c) On completion, refill the cooling system
as described in Chapter lA or IB.
dj On models with automatic transmission,
check and if necessary top-up the
automatic transmission fluid level with
reference to the 'Automatic transmission
fluid - draining and refilling' procedures
contained in Chapter 7B.
4
Thermostat removal and refitting
^
Removai
1.6 litre Z18XE petrol engine m o d e l s
1 The thermostat is located on the front righthand side of the cylinder head, and is integral
with its housing.
2 Disconnect the battery negative temilnal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chaptei^,
3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the tnsnt
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the plastic cover from the top of the engine,
4 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A,
5 Loosen the clips and disconnect the top
hose and throttle housing coolant hose from
the thermostat housing.
6 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
coolant temperature sensor on the housing.
7 Unbolt and remove the housing trom
the cylinder head, then remove the gasket.
Thoroughly clean the contact surfaces of the
housing and cylinder head.
1.8 litre ZISXER petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
8 The thermostat is located in a housing
attached to the left-hand side of the cylinder
head, and is integral with the housing cover.
9 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter^.
10 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
11 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A.
12 Undo the retaining nut and detach the
wiring harness bracket from the thermostat
housing,
13 Disconnect the thermostat wiring
14 Release the clips and disconnect the
radiator hose trom the thermostat cover
15 Unscrew the four bolts and remove the
thermostat cover trcim the housing.
16 Thoroughly clean the housing and cover
contact surfaces.
2.2 litre petrol engine m o d e i s
17 The thermostat is located on the lefthand rear of the cylinder head, over the transmission.
18 Disconnect the naitorv negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tiie battery in the
Reference C nan ton.
19 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and suooort it on axle
stands (see jacHina ana venicie support).
20 Drain the cooiino avstem as described in
Chapter 1A,
21 Release the clip and disconnect the top
hose from the thermostat cover.
22 Unscrew the bolts and remove the
cover from the thermostat housing (see
illustration),
23 Lift the thermostat from the housing (see
illustration). Remove the seal from the rim of
the thermostat and discard it. Obtain a new
one. Clean the contact surfaces ol the cover
and housing.
Diesel engine m o d e l s
24 The thermostat is located on the left-hand
end of the cylinder head, and is integral with
the housing.
25 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
26 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
27 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
28 Drain the coding system as described in
Chapter IB,
29 Release the two retaining clips and
disconnect the charge air hose trom the
throttle housing, and intercooler charge air
pipe (see Illustration).
30 Release the clips and disconnect the
hoses from the thennostat housing.
31 Disconnect the coolant temperature
sensor wiring connector.
32 Unscrew the nut and release the coolant
pipes from the stud at the base of the
thermostat housing.
33 Unbolt the thermostat housing from the
cylinder head. Clean away ail traces of gasket
from the housing and cylinder head.
ReftWng
34 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tit
a new gasket/seal (where applicable) and
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque. Refill the cooling system as descht>ed
in the relevant Part of Chapter 1.
4.22 Removing the tt
5
Electric c o o l i n g f a n removal and refitting
A
Warning: If the engine is hot, the
cooling fan may start up at any
time. Take extra precautions when
working in the vicinity of the fan.
Removal
1.8 litre Z18XE petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
3 Unclip the radiator hose and detach the
plastic panel at the front of the battery box.
4 Poll out the locking bar and disconnect the
wiring harness connector from the cooling fan
module at the side of the fan housing. Free
the wiring harness from the cable-ties.
5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front ot the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 Release the four retaining clips and detach
the front bumper lower panel from the
subframe.
7 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fan
housing to the radiator; one at each upper
corner ot the housing.
8 Carefully lift the fan housing upwards to
disengage it from the lower guides on the
radiator, and remove the housing from the
engine compartment.
9 To remove the fan motor, disconnect the
wiring connector and unclip the wiring harness
from the tan housing. Undo the three retaining
bolts and remove the fan from the housing.
10 To remove the cooling fan module, undo
the retaining screw and unclip the unit from
the fan housing.
4.23 Removing the thermostat from flie
housing
three retaining lugs ana pusn tne resondor
rearward. Using a screwdriver, release the
locking clip and remove the resonator.
14 Release the retaining clips and detach Itie
coolant hoses from the tan housing,
15 Disconnect the cooling fan wiring harness
at the connector on the side of the fan
housing,
16 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fan
housing to the radiator; one at each upper
corner of the housing.
17 Carefully lift the fan housing upwards to
disengage it from the lower guides on the
radiator, and remove the housing from the
engine compartment.
18 To remove the fan motor, undo the bolt
securing the wiring connector to Ihe fan
housing, then unclip the wiring. Undo the
three retaining bolts and remove the fan from
the housing.
2.2 litre petrol engine m o d e l s
19 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
20 Undo the retaining bolt and unclip the air
intake resonator from above the radiator.
21 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the wiring harness connector from Ihe cooling
fan module at the top of the fan housing. Free
the wiring hamess from the cable-ties.
22 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fan
housing to the radiator, one at each upper
corner ot the housing.
23 Carefully lift the fan housing upwards to
disengage it from the lower guides on the
radiator and remove the housing from the
engine compartment.
1.8 litre Z18XER petrol engine m o d e l s
11 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnechrig the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
12 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Chapter 4A.
13 Undo the bolt securing the resonator to
the front upper crossmember. Depress the
4.29 Disconnect the charge air hose
from tho throttle housing, and Ir
charge air pipe
&2A U«k) the * r e e retaking boHs(amiwed)arKl remove the fan from
the housing
5.27 Unscrew the two retaining bolts (arrowed) and Irft the fan
housing from the lower guides on the radiator
the fan housing from the lower guides c
radiator (see lllusteation)28 To remove the fan motor(s), dis
the wiring connector at the relevant motor and
unclip the wiring harness from the fan housing.
Undo the three retaining bolts and remove the
fan from the housing (see illustration 5.24).
29 To remove the cooling fan module, undo
the retaining screw and unclip the unit from
the fan housing (see Illustration).
Refitting
5.29 Undo the retaining screw (anowed)
and unclip the cooling (an module from the
fan housing
30 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6
C o o l a n t t e m p e r a t u r e sensor
- testing, removal and refitting
^
^
24 To remove the fan motor(s), disconnect
the wiring connector at the relevant motor and
unclip the wiring harness from the fan housing.
Undo the three retaining bolts and remove the
fan from the housing (see illustration).
25 To remove the cooling fan module, undo
the retaining screw and unclip the unit from
the fan housing.
1 Testing of the coolant temperature sensor
must be entrusted to a Vauxhali/Opel dealer,
who will have the necessary specialist
diagnostic equipment.
Diesel engine m o d e l s
Removal
26 Remove the radiator as described in
Section 3.
27 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and lift
2 Partially drain the cooling system with
reference to Chapter l A o r IB. Alternatively it
change the sensor quickly with
minimal loss of coolant by first releasing any
pressure from the cooling system. With the
engine cold, temporarily remove the expansion
tank cap.
3 Where fitted, remove the plastic cover over
the top of the engine.
1.6 litre Z18XE petrol engine m o d e l s
4 The coolant temperature sensor is located
on the thermostat housing on the right-hand
end of the cylinder head.
5 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unscrew and remove the sensor from the
thennostat housing. If the cooling system has
not been drained, either insert the new sensor
or fit a blanking plug to prevent further loss of
coolant.
1.8 litre ZISXER petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
6 The coolant temperature sensor is located
in the thennostat housing at the left-hand end
of the cylinder head (see illustration).
7 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unlock the retaining clamp and remove the
sensor from the thermostat housing. If the
cooling system has not been drained, either
insert the new sensor or tit a blanking plug to
prevent further loss of coolant,
2.2 litre petrol engine m o d e l s
8 The coolant temperature sensor is located
on the thermostat housing at the left-hand
end of the cylinder head (see Illustration).
9 Disconnect fhe wiring connector, then
unscrew and remove the sensor from the
thermostat housing. If the cooling system has
not been drained, either insert the new sensor
or fit a blanking plug to prevent further loss of
coolant.
Diesel engine m o d e l s
6.6 Coolant temperature sensor location
(an-owed) - 1 . 8 litre ZISXER petrol engine
models
e recirculating air valve
servo motor
the servo lever with the air valve lever as the
unit is refitted.
Recirculating
Mixed air valve servo motor
air vaive housing
Removal
19 Remove the heater blower motor as
descht>ed previously.
20 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
recirculating air valve servo motor and release
the wiring harness from the clip on the air
valve housing (see illustration).
21 Undo the retaining bolt and manoeuvre
the housing out from under the facia.
Remting
22 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the housing air duct is correctly seated.
Recirculating
servo motor
air valve
Removal
23 Remove the recirculating air valve housing
as described previously,
24 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the motor from the housing (see illustration).
Removal
26 Remove the glovebox and the facia
footwell trim panel on the passenger's side as
described in Chapter 11.
27 Disconnect the wiring connector from
the servo motor, then undo the two retaining
bolts. Disengage the operating lever from the
air valve and remove the servo motor (see
illustration).
Refitting
28 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Engage
the servo lever with the air valve lever as the
unit is refitted.
Heater
matrix
Removal
29 Working in fhe engine compartment, use
two hose clamps to clamp the hoses leading
to the heater matrix. The hoses are located
on the bulkhead, just above the steering
gear Alternatively, drain the cooling system
completely as described in Chapter 1A
9,27 Mixed air valve servo motor wiring connector (A) and
retaining bolts (B)
9.24 Recirculating air valves,
retaining boHs (arrow.
clip secunng the left-hand and right-hand
heater hoses to the heater matrix pipe stubs,
and disconnect the hoses from the stubs.
Be prepared for some loss of cooiant as the
hoses are released, by placing cloth rags
beneath them.
31 Remove the facia footwell thm panel on
the driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
32 Undo the three bolts and remove the
heater matrix cover (see Illustration).
33 Undo the two bolts and release the
clamps securing the heater pipes to the matrix
(see Illustration). Be prepared for coolant
spillage as the pipes are disconnected, and
place some cloths or absorbent material over
the carpet.
34 Pull the heater matrix from its location and
remove it from the car
Refitting
35 Refitting is a reversal ot « jval, bearing
in mind the following:
^ Push ihe securing wire clip back
into position on the heater hose end
mtings. then push the hoses back onto
the matrix pipe stubs. Ensure that the
wire clips securely lock the hoses in
position.
b) If the cooling system was completely
drained, refill as described In Chapter 1A
9.32 Undo the Hiree bolts (arrowed) and remove the heater matrix
cover
9.33 Undo tho two bolts and release the clamps (anTjwed)
securing the heater pipes to the matrix
41 Remove the windscreen wiper arms as
described in Chapter 12,
42 Pull up the rubber weatherseal from the
flange at the rear of the engine compartment.
Heater control assembly
Carefully release the water deflector by pulling
it away from the windscreen to release the
Removal
retaining clips. Withdraw the water deflector
36 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise and disconnect the washer hose.
out the heater control assembly fnsm the facia 43 Remove the pollen filter as described in
(see illustration).
Chapter 1Aor IB,
37 Disconnect the wiring from the rear of the 44 Using a small screwdriver, lift up the wire
control assembly (see Illustration).
clip securing the left-hand and right-hand
heater hoses to the heater matrix pipe stubs,
Refitting
and disconnect the hoses from the stubs.
38 Refitting Is a reversal of removal.
Be prepared for some loss ot coolant as the
Air distribution
housing
hoses are released by placing cloth rags
beneath them.
Note: On models with air conditioning, it is
45 Release the matrix pipe stub aibtier seal
not possible to remove the air distribution
from the bulkhead by pushing it Inward (the
housing without opening the refrigerant circuit
(see Sections 10 and 11). Have the refrigerant seal remains on the pipe stubs).
46 On models with air conditioning, undo
discharged at a dealer service department or
the nut securing the refrigerant pipe block
an automotive air conditioning repair facility
connection to the expansion valve and
before proceeding.
withdraw the refrigerant pipes from the valve
Removal
(see illuBtration). Note that new seals for the
39 Drain the cooling system as described in
refrigerant pipes will be required for refitting.
Chapter l A o r t B .
Suitably plug or cover the disconnected pipes.
40 Remove the complete facia assembly 47 Release the expansion valve rubber seal
and the facia crossmember as described in from the bulkhead by pushing it inward (the
Chapter 11.
seal remains on the valve).
Of 1B. If the heater hoses were clamped
prior to removal, top-up the cooling
system as described In 'Weekly checks'.
9.37 . . .then disconnect the wiring trom
tne rear oi tne control assemoiy
9.46 Undo the nut (arrowed) securing the
refrigerant pipe block connection to the
expansion valve
48 Disconnect the wiring connectors at
the heater blower motor and blower motor
resistor
49 Working inside the vehicle withdraw the
air distribution housing from the bulkhead.
Note: Keep the matrix unions uppermost as
the housing is removed, to prevent coolant
spillage. Mop-up any spilt coolant Immediately,
and wipe the affected area with a damp cloth
to prevent staining.
Refitting
of removal. On
50 Refitting is the rev
iling system as
completion, refill the
IB.On modeis with
described inChapterIA
air conditioning, have the system evacuated,
charged and leak-tested by the specialist who
it.
10 Air c o n d i t i o n i n g s y s t e m general information
and precautions
General
information
1 Air conditioning is standard on top of the
range models, and optional on certain othet
models. 11 enables the temperature of Incoming
air to be lowered, and also dehumidifies the
air, which makes for rapid demisting and
increased comfort,
2 The cooling side of the system works in
the same way as a domestic refrigerator.
Refrigerant gas is drawn into a belt-driven
compressor, and passes into a condenser
mounted in front of the radiator, where tl
loses heat and becomes liquid. The liqukJ
passes through an expansion valve to an
evaporator where it changes from liquid under
high pressure to gas under low pressure.
This change is accompanied by a drop in
temperature, which cools the evaporator. The
refrigerant returns to the compressor, and the
cycle begins again.
3 Air blown through the evaporator passes
to the heater assembly, where it is mixed
with hot air blown through the heater matnx.
to achieve the desired temperature in the
passenger compartment.
4 The heating side of the system works
in the same way as on models without air
conditioning (see Section 8).
5 The operation ot the system is controlled
electronically. Any problems wiin tne sysiBrii
should be referred to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer
or an air conditioning specialist.
Air conditioning
service
ports
6 The high-pressure service port is located
just in front of the air cleaner bousing (see
Illustration).
7 The low-pressure service port is located
at the front right-hand side of the engine
compartment, just behind the body front
Precautions
8 H is necessary to obsen/e special precautions
whenever dealing with any part of the system, its
associated components, and any items which
necessitate disconnection ofthe system.
Warning: Ttie refrigeration circuit
contains a liquid
refrigerant.
Tills refrigerant
is
potentially
dangerous, and should only be handled by
guaiified persons. If it is splashed onto the
sIdn, it can cause frostbite. It is not itself
poisonous, but in the presence of a nailed
fíame it forms a poisonous gas; inhalation of
tile vapour through a lighted cigarette could
prove fatal. Uncontrolled discharging of the
refrigerant is dangerous, and potentially
damaging to the environment. Do not
disconnect any part of the system unless
It has been discharged by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer or an air conditioning specialist
Caution:
Da not operate
the
air
conditioning system if it is known to be
Short of refrigerant, as this may damage
the compressor.
A
11 Air c o n d i t i o n i n g
sremovai
y s t e m cand
o m prefitting
onents -
A
IjS
Warning: The air
conditioning
system is under high pressure. Do
not loosen any fittings or remove
6 Disconnect the compressor wiring connector.
7 Unbolt the compressor from the cylinder
blook/crankcase/sump, then withdraw the
compressor downwards from under the
vehicle.
tO.e Air conditioning system
high-pressure service port (A) and
low-pressure service port (B)
any components until after the system
has been discharged. Air
conditioning
refrigerant should be properly discharged
into an approved type of container at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air condHloning repair facility capable of
handling R 134a refngerant Cap or plug the
pipe lines as soon as they are disconnected,
to prevent Ihe entry of moisture. Always
wear eye protection when disconnecting
air conditioning system tittlngs*
Note: This Section refers to the components
of the air conditioning system itself - refer to
Sections B and 9 for details of components
common to the heating/ventilation system.
Compressor
Removal
1 Have the refrigerant discharged at a dealer
service department or an automotive air
conditioning repair facility,
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
ihe front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter l A o r f B .
5 With the system discharged, undo the
retaining bolt(s) and disconnect the refrigerant
pipes from the compressor. Discard the O-ring
seals - new ones must be used when refitting.
Suitably cap the open fittings immediately to
keep moisture and contamination out of the
Refitting
8 Refit the compressor in the reverse order oí
removal: renew all seals disturbed.
9 If you are installing a new compressor, refer
to the compressor manufacturer's instroctions
for adding refrigerant oil to the system.
10 Have the system evacuated, charged and
leak-tested by the specialist that discharged it.
11 After installing a new compressor, always
observe the following running-in procedure:
1) Open aii instnjment panel air outlet flaps.
2) Start vehicle engine and statiilise idle
speed for approximately 5 seconds.
3} Switch fan to ma^mum speed.
4) Switch on the air conditioning and let it mn
for at least 2 minutes witiiout intenuption
at engine ^peed under 1500 rpm.
Evaporator
Removal
12 Have the refngerant discharged at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
13 Remove the windscreen wiper motor and
linkage as described in Chapter 12.
14 Undo the nut secunng the refrigerant
pipe biock connection to the expansion valve
and withdraw the refrigerant pipes fram the
valve (see Illustration 9.46). Note that new
seals for the refrigerant pipes will t>e required
for refitting. Suitably plug or cover the
disconnected pipes.
15 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the expansion valve (see illustrations).
16 Remove the two seals from the evaporator
pipe stubs (see Illustration). Note that new
seals will be required for refitting.
17 Rotate the evaporator pipe retaining plate
to release it from one pipe stub, then slide the
plate sideways off the other pipe stub (see
Illustration).
18 Release the rubber seal from the bulkhead
then remove the seal "rom the pipe stubs (see
illustration).
19 Insert a small screwdriver through the
slots in the housing and depress the tabs of
11.16 Remove the two seals
evaporator pipe stubs
11.17 Rotate the pipe retaining plate to
release it fr<»n one pipe stub, then slide
the plete off the other pipe stub
the evaporator pipe retaining plate. Lift up the
retaining plate and remove it from the housing
(see illustrations).
20 Remove the recirculating air valve housing
as described in Section 9.
21 Undo the eight retaining bolts and remove
the evaporator cover from the side of the air
distribution housing (see Illustration).
22 Carefully pull the evaporator out of the air
distribution housing (see illustration).
Refitting
23 Refitting is the reverse of removal ensuring
that all disturbed pipe seals are renewed.
24 Have the system evacuated, charged and
leak-tested by the specialist who discharged
It.
Condenser
R e m o v a l - petrol engine m o d e l s
25 Have the refrigerant discharged at a
11.19a Depress the tabs of the evaporator
pipe retaining plate with a screwdriver . . .
11.22 Careftjlly pull the
the air distribution housing
11.18 Release the rubber seal from the
bulkhead tiien remove the seal from the
pipe shibs
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
26 Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to Disconnecting (he battery in the
Reference Chapter),
27 Remove the fnsnt bumper as descriljed In
Chapter 11,
28 Undo the retaining nuts and disconnect
the refrigerant pipe connector blocks from
the condenser and receiver-dryer. Discarct the
seals - new ones must be used when refitting.
Suitably cap the open fittings immediately to
keep moisture and contamination out of the
system.
29 Slacken (but do not remove) the two bolts
securing the radiator left-hand and right-hand
mounting brackets to the subframe (see
illustrations 3.1 Oa and 3.1 Ob).
30 Release the radiator upper rubber mounting
bushes on each side from their guides, and
carefully move the top of the radiator fonwand.
31 Undo the bolt each side securing the
condenser upper mounting brackets to
the radiator. Carefully lift up or remove the
plastic panels on each side of the radiator for
improved access, if necessary.
32 Carefully lift the condenser upwards,
^engage the lower mounting lugs from the
diator and remove the condenser fnam the
ungme compartment.
33 If required, remove the receiver-dryer from
the condenser as described In paragraphs 44
and 45.
Removal - diesel engine m o d e l s
34 Have the refrigerant discharged at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
35 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery In the
Reference Chapter).
36 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11,
37 Undo the retaining nuts and disconnect
the upper and lower refrigerant pipe connector
blocks fnsm the condenser (see illustration).
Discard the seals - new ones must be
used when refitting. Suitably cap the Open
fittings Immediately to keep moisture and
contamination out of the system.
38 Undo ihe bolt each side securing the
condenser upper mounting brackets to the
intercooler (see illustration).
S9 Carefully lift the condenser upwards,
disengage the lower mounting lugs from the
intercooler and remove the condenser from
the engine compartment (see illustration}.
11.19b . . . then im up the retaining plate
and remove It from the housing
block retaining nut (anvwed)
11.38 Condenser left-hand upper
inting bracket retaining bolt (arrowed)
Refitting - all m o d e l s
40 Refitting is the reverse of removal ensuring
that all disturbed pipe seals are renewed.
41 Have the system evacuated, charged and
leak-tested by the specialist who discharged it.
Receiver-dryer
Removal - petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
42 Have the refrigerant discharged at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
43 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
44 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
45 Undo the retaining nuts and disconnect
the refrigerant pipe connector blocks from
the condenser and receiver-diyer. Dlscand the
seals - new ones must be used when refitting.
Suitably cap the open fittings immediately to
keep moisture and contamination out of the
system.
46 Undo the two retaining boits and remove
the receiver-dryer from the condenser.
R e m o v a l - diesel engine m o d e l s
47 Have trie refrigerant discharged at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
48 Disconnect Itie battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chaptei^.
49 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Undo the ten bolts and remove the engine
undertray
50 Remove the frt>nt bumper as descnbed in
Chapter 11.
51 Undo the retaining nut and disconnect the
refrigerant pipe upper connector block from
the condenser. Discard the seal - a new one
must be used when refitting. Suitably cap the
open fittings immediately to keep moisture
and contamination out of the system.
52 Undo the bolt securing the intercooler
right-hand charge air pipe upper mounting to
the radiator (see illustration 3.33).
53 Slacken the retaining clips and remove
the right-hand lower charge air hose from
the intercooler and charge air pipe (see
illustration 3.30b).
54 Undo the bolt secunng the refrigerant pipe
bracket and intercooler right-hand charge
air pipe lower mounting to the radiator (see
illusb-ation 3.34b).
55 Slacken (but do not remove) the two bolts
securing the radiator left-hand and right-hand
mounting brackets to the subframe (see
illustrations 3.10a and 3.10b).
56 Release the radiator upper rubber
mounting bushes on each side from their
guides, and carefully move the top of the
radiator forward.
57 Undo the retaining nuts and disconnect
J Lift the condenser upwards and
iglug
(arrowed) on each side
the refrigerant pipe connector blocks from
the condenser and receiver-dryer Discand the
seals - new ones must be used when refitting.
Suitably cap the open fittings immediately to
keep moisture and contamination out ot the
system.
58 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the receiver-dryer from fhe radiator. Withdraw
the receiver-dryer downwanJs and remove it
from under the car.
R e f i t t i n g - a l l models
59 Refitting is the reverse of removal ensuring
that all dlsturtDed pipe seals are renewed.
60 Have Hie system evacuated, charged and
leak-tested by the specialist who discharged
it.
Chapter 4 Part A:
Fuel and exhaust systems - petrol engines
Contents
Section number
Accelerator pedal/posltlon sensor - removal and refitting
Air cleaner assembly and intake ducts - removal and refitting
Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting
Exhaust system - general information, removal and refitting
Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting
Fuel Injection system - depressurisation
Fuel injection system components - testing
Fuel Injection systems - general infonnation
Fuel supply pump - removal and refitting
3
2
16
17
6
5
11
ID
7
Section number
Fuel tank - removal and refitting
8
General information and precautions
1
Inlet manifold - removal and refitting
15
Simtec 71.5 injection system components - removal and refitting . . 12
SImtec 75,1 injection system components - removal and refitting . . 1 3
Simtec 81.1 injection system components - removal and refitting . . 1 +
Throttle housing - removal and refitting
9
Unleaded petrol - general infomiation and usage
4
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
%
1
Falrty easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
Fairly (ifficult,
^
suitable for c o m p e t e n t ^
DIY mechanic
3^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult.
35
Specifications
System type
1.8 Ittre engines:
Z18XE
Z18XER
2.2 litre engines
Simtec 71.5 multi-point injection
Simtec 75,1 mutti-point injection
SimtecSI.I high-pressure direct injection
Fuel system data
1,8 litre engines:
Fuel supply pump type
Fuel pump regulated constant pressure
Specified idle speed
Idle mixture GO content
2.2 litre engines:
Fuel pump type:
Supply pump
High-pressure pump
Fuel supply pump deliveiy pressure
Fuel system operating pressure
Specified idle speed
Idle mixture CO content
Recommended futí
Minimum octane rating
Electric, immersed in tank
3.8 bar
Mot adjustable - contnalled by ECU
Hot adjustable - controlled by ECU
Electric, immersed in tank
Ivlechanlcal, driven by inlet camshaft
4.2 bar
40 to 110 bar
Not adjustable ~ controlled by ECU
Not adjustable - controlled by ECU
95 RON unleaded (UK premium unleaded)
Leaded fuel or LRP must NOT be used
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
5:
Torque wrench settings
Nm
Accelerator pedal position sensor nuts
Camsiiaft sensor*
Cranl Mhough the underbonnet-mounted
control units will tolerate normal
system must be depressurlsed (see Section 5).
underbonnet conditions, they can be
' ^^^re must be taken when disconnecting the
adversely affected by excess heat or
""^s. When disconnecting a fuel union or
moisture.
If using welding equipment or
* ® '^"1°'^
<=I^P screw slowly,
pressure-washing equipment in the vicinity
^° ^^ord sudden uncontrolled fuel spillage,
of an electronic contml unit, take care not
^ake adequate fire precautions,
to direct heat, or jets of water or steam, at
"
woiking on fue\ system components,
the unit If this cannot be avoided, remove
scrupulous cleanliness must be observed,
tlie control unit from the vehicle, and
f ^ care must be aken not to introduce any
protect its wiring plug with a plastic bag.
^°<^^Sn matter into fuel lines or components.
c) Before disconnerrting any wiring, or
*
carrying out any work involving
removing components, always ensure that
disconnection of fuel lines, it is advisable to
fhe ignition is switched off.
connections for leaks; pressurise
d) After working on fuel injection/engine
system by switching the ignition on and
management system components, ensure
™ several times.
Precautions
^'^'^^^
that all wiring is correctly reconnectes
before reconnecting the battery or
switching on the ignition.
Warning: Many of ttie procedures
In tilts Ctiapterrequire the removal
of fuel lines and
connections,
which may result in some fuel spillage.
Before carrying out any operation on the
fuel system, refer to the precautions given
In 'Safety first!' at the beginning of this
manual, and follow them Impiicitly. Petrol is
a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid, and
the precautions necessary when handling
it cannot tie overstressed.
Note: Residual pressure will remain in the
fuel lines long after the vehicle was last
used. Before disconnecting any fuel line, first
dépressurise the fuel system as describeit m
Section 5.
A
:
•2 Air cleaner a s s ^ b l y
and mtalr(2)...
2 Remove the driver's side lower facia panel
as described In C h a p t w l l .
3 Working in the driver's footwell under the
facia, disconnect the wiring from the top of
the accelerator pedal/positron sensor (see
illustration).
4 Unscrew the three mounting nuts, and
withdraw the sensor from the bulkhead.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
4
Unleaded petrolgeneral infomiation and usage
'
Note; The information given in this Chapter
is conect at the time of writing. If updated
Refitting
5
Fuel injection system -
3 Accelerator pedaï/
position sensor-
removal and refitting
3.3 Accelerator pedal/position s«isor
wiring connector (A) and mounting nuts (B)
^
ssurisation
A
6 Refitting is the reverse of removal, making
;ir intake ducts/hoses are securely
recor scted.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
information Is thought to be required, check
with a Vauxhall/Opel dealer. If traveling abroad,
consult one of the motoring organlsaeons (or a
similar authority) for advice on the fuel avallaUe.
All petrol models are designed to run on
fuel with a minimum octane rating of 95 RON.
However, if unavailable, 91 octane may be
used on 1.8 litre engines only. 2.2 litre engines
must not be njn on 91 octane fuel.
All models have a catalytic converter, and
so must be run on unleaded fuel only. Under
no ciniumstances should leaded fuel or LRP
be used, as this will damage the converter
Super unleaded petrol can also be used
in all models if wished, though there is no
advantage in doing so.
Warning: Refer to the warning
note
in Section
1
before
proceeding.
The
following
procedure will merely relieve the pressure
in the fuel system - remember that fuel will
still be present in the system components,
and take precautions accordingly before
disconnecting any of them.
1 The fuel system referred to In this Section
IS defined as the tank-mounted fuel pump,
the fuel filter, the fuel injectors, and the metal
pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel lines
between these components. All these contain
Note 1: Vauxhall/Opet special too! m-797 tor
suitable alternative) will be required to remove
and refit the fuel pump cover lodging ring.
Note 2: A new fuel pump cover sealing ring
will be required on refitting.
Removal
•e connection valve
(arrowed) - 2.2 litre engines
5,3a Fuel pressure connection valve
(arrowed) - 1.8 litre ZISXER engines
fuel which will be under pressure while the
engine is running, and/or while the ignition is
switched on. The pressure will remain for some
time after the ignition has been switched off,
and it must be relieved in a controlled fashion
when any of these components are disturt)ed
for s. icing w
e the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
3 Locate the fuel pressure connection valve
which Is fitted to the fuel rail. On 1.8 litre Z18XE
engines it can be found on the top, right-hand
end of the fuel rail. On 1.8 litre Zl 8XER engines
it can be found on the top, left-hand end of ttie
fuel rail. On 2.2 litre engines the fuel pressure
connection valve is located on the fuel inlet
pipe connection on the high-pressure fuel
pump (see illustrations).
4 Unscrew the cap from the valve and position
lect the wiring connector from
a container beneath the v^ve. Hold a wad of
rag over the valve and relieve the pressure in
the fuel system by depressing the valve core
with a suitable screwdriver. Be prepared tor
the squirt of fuel as the valve core is depressed
and catch it with the rag. Hold the valve core
down until no more fuel is expelled from the
valve.
5 Once all pressure is relieved, securely refit
the valve cap.
6
Fuel g a u g e sender unit -
^
removal and refitting
^
A
Warning: Refer to the warning note
in Section 1 tiefore proceeding.
6.7 Compress the clips located oi
side of Ihe fuel hose fitlrng and e i
fitbng off of Its union
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the batten/ In the
Reference Chapter).
2 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in Section 5.
3 Fold the rear seat cushion fonwards or
alternatively remove the cushion as described
in Chapter 11.
4 Lift up the flap in the carpet to reveal the
fuel tank access cover (see illustration).
5 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise the
plastic access cover from the floor (sea
illustration).
6 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
fuel supply pumpcover, and tape theconnector
to the vehicle body to prevent it disappearing
behind the tank (see Illustration).
7 Mark the fuel hoses for identification
purposes. The hoses are equipped with quickrelease fittings to ease removal. To disconnect
each hose, compress the clips located on
each side of the fitting and ease the fitting off
of Its union (see Illustration). Plug the hose
ends to minimise fuel loss,
8 Using the Vauxhall/Opel special tool,
unscrew the locking ring and remove it from
the tank (see illustration).
9 Make identification marks on the fuel pump
cover and the body to ensure that the cover is
refitted in its original position. There may be
an anow stamped on the coven If so note its
direction,
10 Carefully lift the fuel pump cover away
from tank until the wiring connectors can
be disconnected from its underside (sea
illustration).
11 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the fuel supply hose from the underside of the
fuel pump cover. Where fitted, also disconnect
the fuel return hose quick-release fitting trom
the underside of the cover (see Illustration).
Remove the fuel pump cover and collect the
sealing ring trom the top ot the tank,
12 The fuel gauge sender unit is clipped to
Using the Vauxhall/Opel special tool,
the locking ring and remove It
from the tank
the side of the fuel supply pump. Depress
the retaining clip then slide the sender unit
upwards to release it from the pump (see
iflustrations}.
13 Manoeuvre the sender unit through the
fuel tank aperture, taking great care not
damage the float arm.
RBfitting
14 Race a new sealing ring in position on the
top of the fuel tank.
15 Manoeuvre the sender unit carefully In
through the tank aperture and slide it into
position on the side of the fuel supply pump.
Ensure the sender unit is clipped securely in
position.
16 Reconnect the fuel supply hose and.
where fitted, the return hose to the fuel pump
17 Reconnect the fuel pump and sender unit
wiring connectors to the fuel pump cover
Locate the cover in position on the tank and
align the marks, or direction arrow in the
position noted during removal.
18 Refit the locking ring and tighten it with
the special tool until it locks in place.
19 Reconnect the fuel hoses to the pump
cover, using the mat1ed
in Section 5.
3 Before removing the fuel tank, all fuel
must be drained from the tank. Since a fuel
tank drain plug is not provided, it is therefore
preferable to cany out the removal operation
when the tank is nearly empty. The remaining
fuel can then be siphoned or hand-pumped
from the tank.
4 Remove the exhaust system and relevant
heat shleld(s) as described in Section 17,
5 Unclip the handbrake cables from the
underbody and fuel tank, then tie than to one
side, away from the fuel tank,
6 Disconnect the wiring for the fuel pump and
fuel gauge sender at the underbody connector
in front of the left-hand side of the tank. Unclip
the wiring harness from the two retaining
Clips.
7 Disconnect the fuel feed line, return line
Refitting
4 Ensure the filter is securely fitted to the
base of the pump then carefully manoeuvre
the pump assembly into position, making sure
It clips securely into position,
5 Refit the fuel gauge sender unit as described
in Section 6.
8
Fuel t a n k -
^
removal and refitting
^
A
Warning: Referto tfie warning note
In Section 1 before proceeding.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tiie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
7.3 Inspect the fuel filter for Signs Of
damage or deterioration and renew If
necessary
Sections 6 and 7 respectively Shake the tank
vigorously, and change the fuel as necessary
to remove all contamination from the tank.
Warning: Tiiis procedure sfiould
be carried out in a well-ventiiated
' area, and it is vital to take
adequate fire precautions.
15 Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
earned out by a professional. Do not under
any circumstances attempt any form of DIY
repair to a fuel tank.
A
Refitting
9.4 Disconnect the wiring connector
(arrowed) from the throttle housing 1.8 litre engines
(where applicable) and the evaporative
vent line at the underbody quick-release
connectors on the right-hand side of the tank.
Be prepared for some loss of fuel. A Vauxhail/
Opel special tool is available to release the
fuel line connectors, but provided care is
taken, the connectors can be released using
a pair of long-nosed pliers, or a similar tool, to
depress flie ratalning tangs. Suitably plug the
disconnected fuel and vent hoses to prevent
entry of dust and dirt.
8 Place a suitable container under the tank,
then slacken the clip and disconnect the
fuel filler hose from the fuel tank. Collect the
escaping fuel in the container.
9 Support the weight of ihe fuel tank on a jack
with interposed block of wood.
10 Undo the four bolts and remove the two
securing straps from the fuel tank.
11 Taking care not to damage the charcoal
canister, slowly lower the tank and move it
forwards. When sufficient clearance exists,
disconnect the charcoal canister vent hose
quick-release fitting.
12 Continue to lower the tank until it can be
removed frcim under the vehicle.
13 If necessary, remove the fuel lines and
hoses, heat shield and wiring from the tank
for transfer to the new tank. If a new tank Is
being fitted. It Is recommended that the filter
Is renewed at the same time.
14 If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may cleaned out with two or three rinses of
clean fuel. Remove the fuel gauge sender
unit and fuel supply pump as described In
8.7 Throttle housing retaining bolts
(arrowed) - 1 . 8 litre engines
16 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
a) When lifting the tank back into potion,
take care to ensure that none of the hoses
become trapped between the tank and
vehicle body. Refit the retaining straps
and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.
b) Ensure ail pipes and hoses are conectly
routed and all hoses unions are securely
joined.
c) On completion, refill the tank with a small
amount of fuel, and check for signs of
leakage prior to taking the vehicle out on
the road.
9
Throttle housing -
^
remove and refitting
^
Removai
1.8 litre engines
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Where fitted, remove the plastic cover over
the top ofthe engine.
3 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Release the clip and disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the camshaft
cover. Detach the intake duct fnam the airflow
meter and throttle housing, and remove the
duct from fhe engine.
4 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
throttle housing (see illustration).
9.12 Disconnect the wiring connector
(arrowed) from the throttle housing 2.2 mro engines
5 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the crankcase ventilation hose and the fuel
evaporation hose fnarn the throttle housing.
6 Clamp the two coolant hoses to minimise
coolant loss, then release the retaining clips
and disconnect the two coolant hoses from
the rear of the throttle housing.
7 Undo the four botts and lift the throttle
housing oft the inlet manifold (see illustration).
Recover the gasket.
8 It is not possible to obtain the thnattle valve
control motor or throttle valve position sensor
separately, so if either is faulty, the complete
throttle body must be renewed.
2.2 litre engines
9 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
10 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
tbe engine.
11 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Detach the intake duct from the
airflow meter and throttle body/housing, and
remove the duct frcmi the engine.
12 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
throttle housing (see illustration).
13 Undo the four bolts and lift the throttle
housing off the inlet manifold (see illustration).
Recover the gasket
14 it is not possible to obtain the throttle
valve control motor or throttle valve position
sensor separately so if either is faulty, the
complete throttle body must t>e renewed.
ReritUng
15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
thoroughly clean the mating faces and use a
new gasket. Tighten the botts progressively
and securely. On 1.8 litre engines, top-up the
coolant level as described in V/eekiy checks.
10 Fuel i n j e c t i o n s y s t e m s general information
The engine management (fuel injection/
ignition) systems incorporate a closed-loop
catalytic converter, an evaporative e
control system and an exhaust
9.13 Undo the four botts (arrowed) and lift
the throtae housing off the infet manifold 2.2 Ittre engines
recirculation system. All the systems operate
in a similar manner and comply with the latest
emission control standards. The fuel (njection
side of the systems operate as follows; refer
to Chapter 58 for information on the Ignition
system.
On 1.8 litre engines, the fuel supply pump,
immersed in the fuel tank, pumps fuel 1mm the
fuel tank to the fuel rail, via a filter mounted
underneath the rear of the vehicle. Fuel
supoiy pressure is controlled by the pressure
regulator located in the fuel tank.
On 2.2 litre engines, the fuel supply pump,
immersed in the fuel tank, pumps fuel from
the fuel tank to the high-pressure fuel pump,
via a filter mounted underneath the rear of
the vehicle. The high-pressure fuel pump is
mounted on the left-hand end of the cylinder
head and is driven directly by the inlet
camshaft. The high-pressure pump supplies
fuel at a variable pressure of between 40 and
110 bar to the fuel rail. The fuel pressure at
the fuel rail is contralled by means of a fuel
pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator.
The electrical conlhDl system consists of the
ECU, along with the following sensors.
a) Throttle potentiometer Ontegral with the
throttle housing) - informs the ECU of the
throttle position, and confirms the ^gnals
received from the accelerator pedal
position SI
•)) Accelei^tf
informs me ECU c
position, and the rate of throttle opening/
clo^ng.
c) Coolant temperature sensor-infonvs tiie
ECU of engine temperature.
d) Airflow meter - informs the ECU of the
load on the engine (expressed in terms
of ttie mass of air pas^ng from the air
(leaner to the throttle housing).
e) Manifold absolute pressure sensor (2.2
litre engines) - Infonns the ECU of the
engine load by monitoring the pressure In
the inlet manifold
f) Oxygen sensors (two)-inform the ECU ol
the oxygen content of the exhaust gases
(explained in greater detail in Part C of
this Chapter).
g) Cranltshalt sensor-informs tiTC ECU of
engine speed and crankstiaft position.
h) Camshaft sensor (two sensors on 1.8 litre
Z18XER engines) - inform the ECU of
speed and position of the camshaft(s).
1) Knock sensor-informs the ECU when
pre-lgnition ('pinking') is occurring,
j) ABS control unit - informs me ECU of
the vehicle speed, tiased on wfieel speed
sensor signals (explained in greater detail
in Chapter 9).
All the above information is analysed
by the ECU and, based on this, the ECU
determines the appropriate ignition and
fuelling requirements for the engine. The ECU
oontnals the fuel injector by varying its pulse
width - the length of time the injector is held
open - to provide a richer or weaker mixture,
as appropriate. The mixture is constantly
varied by the ECU, to provide the best setting
for cranking, starting (with either a hot or
cold engine), warm-up, idle, cruising, and
acceleration.
Idle speed and throttle position is controlled
by the throttle valve control motor, which is an
integral part of the throttle housing. The motor
is controlled by the ECU, in conjunction with
signals received from the accelerator pedal
position sensor
The systems incorporate a variable tract
inlet manifold to help increase tongue output
at low engine speeds. Each inlet manifold tract
is fitted with a valve. The valve is controlled
by the ECU via a solenoid valve and vacuum
diaphragm unit.
At low engine speeds (below approximately
3600 rpm) the valves remain closed. The air
entering the engine is then forced to take the
long inlet path through the manifold which
leads to an increase in the engine torque
output.
At higher engine speeds, the ECU switches
the solenoid valve which then allows vacuum
to act on the diaphragm unit. The diaphragm
unit is linked to the valve assemblies and
opens up each of the four valves allowing
the air passing through the manifold to take
the shorter inlet path which is more suited to
higher engine speeds.
The ECU also controls the exhaust and
evaporative emission control systems, which
are described in detail in Pari G of this
Chapter.
If certain sensors fail, and send abnormal
signals to the ECU, ihe ECU has a back-up
pnagramme. In this event, the abnormal signals
are ignored, and a pre-programmed value ¡S
substituted for the sensor signal, allowing the
engine to continue running, albeit at reduced
efficiency. If the ECU enters Its back-up mode,
a warning light on the instrument panel will
illuminate, and a fault code will be storod in
fhe ECU memory. This fault code can be read
using suitable specialist test equipment
11 Fuel injection system
components -
I
1 If a fault appears in the «igine management
system, first ensure that all the system wiring
connectors are securely connected and free
of corrosion. Ensure that the fault is not due
to poor maintenance; ie, check that the air
cleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped,
the cylinder compression pressures are
correct and that the engine breather hoses
are clear and undamaged, referring to Chapters 1A, 2Aand 2Bfor further information.
2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause of
the problem, the vehicle should be taken to
a suitably-equipped Vauxhall/Opel dealer or
engine management diagnostic specialist
for testing, A diagnostic socket is located
in the centre console, beneath the ashtray
11.2 The diagnostic socket is located
beneath the ashtray insert
Insert, to which a fault code reader or other
suitable test equipment can be connected
(see IJIustration). By using the code reader
or test equipment, the engine management
ECU can be intemagated, and any stored fault
codes can be retrieved. Live data can also
be c^tured from the various system sensors
and actuators, indicating their operating
parameters. This will allow the fault to be
quickly and simply traced, alleviating the need
to test all the system components Individually,
which is a time-consuming operation that
cames a risk of damaging the ECU,
12 Simtec 71.5 injection
system components rBmoval and refitting
• • -
^
^
Fuel rail and
injectors
Nate: Refer to ihe precauiKins^
in Section 1
betore proceeding. The se^s at both ends of the
fuel injectors must be renewed on reñtting.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
3 Dépressurise the fuel system as descritied
in Section 5,
4 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Release the clip and disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the camshaft
cover Detach the intake duct from the airflow
meter and throttle housing, and remove the
duct from the engine.
5 Fimily apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 From under the rear of the engine,
disconnect the wiring connectors for the
oxygen sensor and oil pressure switch.
Release the wiring hamess from Its clips,
7 From under the front of the engine
disconnect the wiring connectors at the oil
level sensor and crankshaft sensor. Release
the wiring harness from its clips,
8 W/orking from above, disconnect the
camshaft sensor wiring connector, then undo
the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the
12.31 U n d o t h e t w o
and
remove tbe camshaft sensor from the
cylinder head
9 Release the clip and disconnect the
remaining crankcase ventilatkin hose from ttie
camshaft cover
10 Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the following components, labelling each
connector to avoid confusion when refitting:
a) Fuel injectors.
b) Air conditioning compressor.
c) Coolant temperature sensor
d) Air conditioning pressure switch.
e) Throttie hou^ng.
fj Fuel injection ECU.
gj Knock sensor.
h) EGR vaive.
ij Ignition module.
j) Oxygen sensor.
k) Wiring harness block connector.
11 Detach the knock sensor wiring harness
plug bracket and the earth lead.
12 Release the wiring harness cable-ties
and unscrew the bolt securing the plastic
wiling tnaugh to ihe engine lifting eye. Lift up
the disconnected harness and place it to one
Side.
13 Disconnect the fuel feed hose
quick-release connector at the fuel rail. Be
prepared for some loss of fuel. A Vauxhail/
Opel special tool is available to release the
connector, but provided care is taken. It can
be released using a pair of long-nosed pliers,
or a similar tool, to depress the retaining tangs.
Suitably cover or plug the open unions, to
prevent dirt Ingress and further fuel spillage.
14 Unscrew the two mounting bohs, th«i lift
the fuel rail, complete with the injectors, off of
the inlet manifold.
15 To remove an injector from the fuel rail,
prise out the metal securing clip using a
screwdriver or a pair of pliers, and pull the
injector from the fuel rail. Remove and discard
i injector sealing rings; new ones must be
fitted on refitting.
16 Overhaul of the fuel injectors is not
possible, as no spares are available. If faulty,
an injector must be renewed.
17 Commence refitting by fitting new O-ring
seals to tjoth ends of the fuel injectors. Coat
the seals with a thin layer of petroleum Jelly
before fitting.
18 Refitting is a reversal of remove, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) When refitting the injectors to the fuel rail,
note that the groove In the metal securing
clip must engage witii the lug on the
injector body.
b) Mate sure that fhe quick-release
connector audibly engages on the fuel
rail.
c) Ensure that all wiring connectors are
securely reconnected, and that the
wiring is secured in tiie relevant clips and
brackets.
Coolant temperature
Airflow
meter
20 Slacken the retaining clip securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and disconnect
the duct.
21 Disconnect the airflow meter wii-ing
connector.
22 Slacken the retaining clip and remove the
airflow meter from the air cleaner housing lid.
23 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the arrow on the airflow meter
points towand the throttle body/housing when
fitted.
Crankshaft
sensor
24 The crankshaft sensor is mounted on the
front of the cylinder block below the oil filter
25 Firmly apply the tiandbraka, then jack up
the front ofthe car and support it securely on
axle stands (see JacA/ng and vehicle support).
26 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unscrew the retaining bolt and remove the
sensor from the front of fhe cylinder block.
Discand fhe sealing ring, a new one should be
used on refitting.
27 Refitting is the reveree of removal using
a new sealing ring and tightening the sensor
bo]t to the specified torque.
Camshaft
12 35 Undo the retainmg bolt and release
uiB Miock sensor from the cylinder block
sensor
sensor
28 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
29 Undo the three retaining screws, then
unclip the timing belt upper cover from the
rear cover and remove it from the engine
compartment.
30 Unscrew the nut from the fuel line bracket,
then unscrew the stud bolt. Disconnect the
camshaft sensor wiring connector, then unclip
the wiring harness.
31 Undo the two retaining bolts andremovethe
sensor from the cylinder head (see Hustration}.
32 Refltting is the reverse of removal,
tightening the sensor retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
Knock sensor
33 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
34 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and
remove the inlet manifold support bracket.
35 Undo the retaining bolt securing fhe knock
sensor to the cylinder block and release the
sensor from its location (see illustration).
36 Trace the wiring back to the knock sensor
wiring connector. Disconnect the connector,
release the wiring harness and remove the
37 On refitting, ensure the mating surfaces
are clean and dry then lit the sensor and
tighten Its retaining bolt to the specified
torque. Ensure the wiring is correctly routed
and securely reconnected.
Electronic
control unit (ECU)
Note: If a new ECU is to be fitted, this work
must bl
s it I
to program the new ECU after installation. This
work requires the use of dedicated Vauxhail/
Opel diagnostic equipment or a compatible
38 Remove the plastic cover over tiie top of
the engine.
39 Lift up the locking bars and disconnect
the two ECU wiring connectors.
40 Disconnect the knock sensor wiring
connector.
41 Undo the retaining bolt and detach tho
eartti lead from tiie ECU.
42 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the ECU from the engine.
43 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Oxygen sensors
44 Refer to Chapter 4C for removal and
refitting details.
13 Simtec 75.1 injection
system components remova! and refitting
Airflow
^
!S
^
meter
1 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
airflow meter ai the right-hand rear corner ot
the engine compartment.
2 Slacken the retaining clamps and remove
Ihe airflow meter from the air intake ducts.
3 Refitting is a reversal of r ^ o v a l , but ensure
lhat the arrow on the airflow meter body points
toward the throttle housing viihen fitted.
Fuel rail and
iniectors
Note: Refer to (he f)rec3uOons ^ven in Section 1
before proceeding. The seals at both ends of the
ftj©/ injectors must be renewed on refitting4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
5 Dépressurise the fuel system as descnbed
in Section 5.
6 Remove the air cleaner assembly and intake
duct as described in Section 2.
7 Unclip the wiring harness trough from the
rear of the camshaft cover (see illustration).
8 Pull out the retaining wire clip and disconnect the breather hose from the camshaft
cover (see illustration).
9 Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the following components, labelling each
connector tc avoid confusion when refitting:
a) Engine management ECU.
b) Evaporative emission control system
purge valve.
c) Throttle housing.
d) Inlet camshaft WT oil control valve.
e) Fuel Injectors.
10 Unclip the wiring harness fram the support
brackets and move the harness to one side.
11 Disconnect the fuel feed hose quickrelease connector at the fuel rail (see
illustration). Be prepared for some loss of
fuel, A Vauxhall/Opel special tool is available
to release the connector, but provided care
is taken, it can be released using a pair of
long-nosed pliers, or a similar tool, to depress
the retaining tangs. Clamp or plug the open
end of the hose, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fuel spillage.
12 Unscrew the two mounting bolts, then lift
the fuel rail complete with the injectors oft of
the inlet manifold.
13 To remove an injector from the fuel rail,
prise out the metal securing clip using a
screwdriver or a pair of pliers, and pull the
Injector from the fuel rail. Remove and discard
the injector sealing rings; new ones must be
fitted on retitting.
14 Overhaul of the fuel injectors is not
possible, as no spares are available. If faulty,
an injector must be renewed.
15 Commerce refitting by fitting new O-ring
seals to both ends of the fuel injectors. Coat
the seals with a thin layer ot petroleum jelly
before fitting,
16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) When refitting the injectors to Ihe fuel rail,
note that the groove in the metal securing
clip must engage with Ihe lug on the
injector body.
b) Mate sore that the quick-release
connector audibly engages on the fuel
rail.
c) Ensure that all wiring connectors are
securely reconnected, and that the
wiring is secured in the relevant clips and
brackets.
Crankshaft position
sensor
Note: A new O-ring seal must tie used on
17 The crankshaft sensor is located at the
rear left-hand end ot the cylinder block, below
the starter motor,
18 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
19 Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter 5A.
20 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector,
then undo the retaining bolt and withdraw the
sensor trom the cylinder block.
21 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the mating surfaces of the sensor
and baseplate are clean and tit a new O-ring
seal to the sensor before refitting. Tighten the
bolt to the specified torque.
Camshaft
sensor
22 Two sensors are fitted, one for each
camshaft. Both sensors are located at the lefthand end of the cylinder head.
23 Disconnect the wiring connector from
the relevant sensor (see illustration). If
removing the exhaust camshaft sensor, unclip
the oxygen sensor wiring harness from the
support bracket.
24 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
sensor Irom the cylinder head.
25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tightening
the sensor retaining bolt to the specified
torque.
13.8 Pull out the retaining wire clip and
disconnect ttie breather hose from the
camshaft cover
Knock sensor
27 The knock sensor is located on the rear of
the cylinder block, just above the starter motor,
28 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
29 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring
connector, then unclip the connector from the
support bracket.
30 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and
remove the inlet manifold support bracket.
31 Disconnect the knock sensor wiring
connector, then unscrew the retaining bolt and
remove the sensor from the cylinder block.
32 Clean the contact surfaces ot Ihe sensor
and block. Also clean the threads ot the
sensor mounting bolt.
33 Locate the sensor on the block and insert
the mounting bolt. Tighten the bolt to the
specitied tongue. Note that the torque setting
is critical for trie sensor to function correctly.
34 Refit the inlet manifold support bracket
and oxygen sensor wiring connector, then
lower the vehicle to the ground.
Electronic
control unit (ECU)
26 Refer to Chapter 3 tor removal and refitting
details.
Note; If a new ECU is to be fitted, this work
must be entnjsted to a Vauxhall/Opel d
suitably-equipped specialist as
to program the new ECU after installation. This
work requires the use of dedicated Vauxhall/
Opel diagnostic equipment or a compatible
alternative.
35 The ECU is located on the left-hand side
of the inlet manifold.
13.11 Disconnect the fuel feed hose
quick-release connector (arrowed) at the
fuel rail
13.23 Disconnect the wiring connector
(an-owed) from the camshaft sensor
(exhaust sensor shown)
Coolant temperature
sensor
38 Undo the retaining bolt and detach the
earth lead fmm the ECU.
39 Undo the four retaining boits and remove
the ECU from the engine.
40 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Oxygen
sensors
41 Refer to Chapter 4C for removal and
refitting details.
13.37 Lift up the ioclting bars and
disconnect the two ECU wiring connectors
36 Disconnect ttie battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter^.
37 Lift up the locidng bars and disconnect tlie
two ECU wiring connectors (see illustration).
14 S l m t e c B I . I i n j e c t i o n
s ^ t e m components removal and refitting
Fuel
rail
and
^
^
injectors
Note 1: Numenyus special tools are required
to remove and refit ttie injectors and fuel
rail. Read througli ttie entire procedure to
familiarise yourself with the worii involved.
14.5a Release the clips (arrowed) securing
the crankcase ventilation valve hoses to
the camshaft
14.5b . . . and cj^inder head
14.8 Disconnect the fuel feed hose
quick-release connector at the fuel
pressure regulator (arrovred)
14.9a Disconnect the fuel retum hose
quick-release connectors at the fuel
pressure regulator (arrowed)...
and ensure the special toois (or suitable
alternatives} are available before proceeding.
Note 2: New sealing rings and retaining clifis
wili be required far each Injector for refitting.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer fo Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the OTgine.
3 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in Section 5.
4 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intai^e duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Detach the Intake duct from the
airflow meter and throttle housing, and remove
the duct frcim tiie engine.
5 Release the clips securing the crankcase
ventilation valve hoses to the camshaft cover
and cylinder head (see illustrations) Unclip
the ventilation valve and remove it from the
engine.
6 Remove the engine management electronic
control untt as described later in this Section.
7 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the fuel
pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator
(see illustrations).
8 Disconnect the fuel feed hose quick-release
connector at the fuel pressure regulator (see
illustration). Be prepared for some loss of
fuel. A Vauxhall/Opel special tool Is available
to release the connector, but provided care
is taken, it can be released using a pair of
long-nosed pliers, or a similar tool, to depress
the retaining tangs. Suttably cover or plug
the open unions, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fuel spillage. Release the disconnected
hose from its retaining clips and move it to
one side.
9 Disconnect the fuel return hose
quick-release connectors at the fuel pressure
regulator and high-pressure fuel oump (see
illustrations). Be prepared for some loss of
fuel. Suitably cover or plug the open unions,
to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.
Release the retaining clips and remove the
hose from tiie engine.
10 Thoroughly clean the fuel pipe unions
on the high-pressure fuel pump and fuel
rail. Using an open-ended spanner, unscrew
the union nuts securing the fuel pipe to the
fuel pump and fuel rail (see Illustration). Be
prepare
he
high-pressure fuel pipe and plug or cover the
open unions to prevent dirt entry,
11 Disconnect the wiring harness connectors
at the evaporative emission control purge
valve, manifold absolute pressure sensor and
the inlet manifold sv^-itchover solenoid valve.
Undo the two nuts and detach the wiring
harness bracket. Unclip the wiring harness
a n d n •e it to 01
12 Unscrew the two stud bolts and the four
mounting bolts securing the fuel rail and
injectors to the cylinder head.
13 Screw the Vauxhall/Opel special tool
KM-6359 into the stud bolt holes at each end
of the fuel rail. Tighten both tools to draw the
fuel rail and injectors out from the cylinder
head. Take care not to tilt the fuel rail as it is
being removed.
14 Detach the injector wiring harness, then
remove the spring clip and plastic clip and
withdraw each injector from the fuel rail. Note
that new clips and new injector seals will be
required for each injector for refitting.
15 If the Injectors remained in place in the
cylinder head when the fud rail was removed, it
will be necessary to use Vauxhall/Opel special
tools KM-6360 and Kfvl-328-B to remove
them. Detach the sealing ring and support ring
from the top of each injector Attach KM-6360
to the injector and turn the tool back and forth
to release the injector from its seat. Once the
injector is free, use tool KM-3a8-B to pull the
injector from the cylinder head. Remove the
remaining injectors in the same way
16 Clean the body of each injector with a soft
brass brush taking great care not to touch the
injector nozzle.
17 Remove the combustion chamber sealing
ring on each injector then fit a new sealing ring
using the various components of Vauxhail/
Opel special tool KM-6364. Place the new
sealing ring on the fitting sleeve, then locate
the fitting sleeve on the injector. Push the
sealing ring into position on the injector using
the cylindrical side of the fitting tool, until
the seal reaches the groove in the injector
Smooth the sealing ring by turning it slightly
with the conical side of the fitting tool, then
leave the tool in position until the injectors are
ready for refitting. Repeat this procedure for
the remaining injectors,
18 Remove the old sealing ring and support
ring from the top of each injector and clean
the ring locations. Using the fitting sleeve of
tool KM-6364, fit a new support ring, then fit
a new sealing ring. Repeat this procedure for
the remaining injectors.
19 Using a circular movement, fit the four
injectors into the fuel rail and secure each one
with a new spring clip and plastic clip,
20 Refit the Injector wiring harness and
reconnect the injectore, fljel pressure regulator
and fuel pressure sensor,
21 Clean the injector locations in the cylinder
head and remove the fitting toois from the
iniectors. Refit the injector and fuel rail
assembly to the cylinder head.
22 Insert the four retaining bolts and tighten
them in a spiral
ntwo St
is to the
23 Refit the two stud bolts to the fuel rail and
tighten to the specified toreiue.
24 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
removal, Ijearing in mind the following points:
a) Ensure that all wiring connectors are
securely reconnected, and that the
wiring is secured in the relevant clips and
brackets.
b^ Tighten the high-pressure fuel pipe unions
to the specified torque.
c) On completion, reconnect the tiattery,
start the engine and check for fuel leaks. If
satisfactory, refit the engine cover
High-pressure
fuel pump
25 Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
26 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
27 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in Section 5,
28 Disconnect the fuel return hose
quick-release connector at the high-pressure
fuel pump (see Illustration 14.9b). Be
prepared for some loss of fuel. A Vauxhail/
Opel special tool is available to release the
connector, but provided care is taken, it can
be released using a pair ot long-nosed pliers,
or a similar tool, to depress the retaining fangs.
Suitably cover or plug fhe open unions, to
prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.
29 Thoroughly clean the fuel pipe unions
on the high-pressure fuel pump and fuel rail.
Using an open-ended spanner, unscrew the
union nuts securing the fuel pipe to the fuel
pump and fuel rail (see Illustration 14.10). Be
prepared for some loss of fuel. Withdraw the
high-pressure fuel pipe and plug or cover the
open unions to prevent dirt entry,
30 Undo the three retaining tx)lts and remove
the high-pressure pump from the cylinder
head. Collect the gasket,
31 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder head and fuel pump and locate a new
gasket on the pump,
32 Place the pump In position on the oyiinder
head and refit the three retaining bolts. Tighten
the bolts to the specitied torque.
33 Reconnect the fuel pipe to the pump
and fuel rail and tighten the union nuts to the
specified tomue,
34 Reconnect the fuel return hose to the
pump.
35 Reconnect the battery, then start the
engine and check for fuel leaks.
36 Refit the engine cover on completion.
Fuel pressure
14.10 Unscrew the union nuts securing
the fuel pipe to the fuel pump (A) and fuel
rail (B)
40 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Detach the intake duct from the
airflow meter and throttle housing, and remove
the duct trom the engine.
41 Disconnect the wiring connector at the
fuel pressure regulator, then undo the two
retaining bolts and remove the regulator fmm
the fuel rail (see illustration). Be prepared for
some loss of fuel. Remove the two sealing
rings from the regulator.
42 Fit two new sealing rings to the regulator,
then place the unit in position on the fuel rail.
Refit and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque and reconnect the wiring
43 Refit Ihe air intake duct and securely
tighten its retaining clips.
44 Refit the engine cover and reconnect the
battery.
Fuel pressure
sensor
45 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
46 Remove the plastk; cover over the top of
the engine.
47 Depressurisethefuelsystemasdescril>ed
in Section 5.
48 Remove the cable-tie, then disconnect the
wiring connector at the fuel pressure sensor
(see Illustration 14.7a). Unscrew the sensor
and remove it from the fuel rail. Collect the
regulator
37 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery In the
Reference Chapter).
38 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
39 Dépressurise the hjel system as described
in Section 5,
14.41 Undo the two retaining bolts
(arrowed) and remove the fuel pressure
regulator from the fuel rail
61 Refit the sensor to the manifold, refit the
retaining bolt and tighten to the specified
torque.
62 Reconnect the sensor wiring connector,
secure the wiring harness connector, and refit
the engine cover
14.60 Disconnect the manifold absolute
pressure sensor wiring connector
(arrowed)
new sealing ring, and tigliten the sensor to the
specified torque.
50 Reconnect the wiring connector and
secure with a new cable-tie,
51 Reconnect the battery, then start the
engine and check for fuel leaks.
62 Refit the engine cover on completion.
C o o / a n t temperature
sensor
53 Refer to Chapter 3 for removal and refitting
details.
Airflow
meter
54 Slacken the retaining clip securing the air
Intake duct to the airflow meter and disconnect
the duct.
65 Disconnect the airflow meter wiring
connector.
66 Slacken the retaining clip and remove the
airflow meter from the air cleaner housing lid,
57 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the an-ow on the airflow meter
points toward the thnattle body/housing when
fitted.
Manifold
absolute
58 Remove fhe plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
59 Unclip the wiring harness connector
located above the manifold absolute pressure
sensor.
60 Disconnect the pressure sensor wiring
connector, undo the retaining bolt and remove
the sensor from the inlet manifold (see
illustration).
Crankshaft
sensor
63 Remove the starter motor as described tn
Chapter 5A.
64 Trace the wiring back from the sensor,
releasing it from ail the relevant clips and ties
whilst noting its correct routing. Disconnect
the wiring connector from the sensor
65 Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove
the sensor from the cylinder block (see
illustration).
66 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tightening
the retaining bolt to Ihe specified tonque. Ensure
the wiring is correctly routed and retained by all
the necessary clips and ties.
Camshaft
sensor
67 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
68 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Section 2.
69 Disconnect the wiring connector, undo the
retaining bolt and remove the sensor from the
cylinder head.
70 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Knock
sensor
71 Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter 5A.
72 Disconnect the wiring block connector,
so the wiring is free to be removed with the
73 Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove
the sensor from the cylinder block (see
Illustration).
74 On refitting ensure the mating surfaces are
clean and dry then fit the sensor and tighten Its
retaining bolt to the specified torque. Ensure
the wiring is correctly routed and retained by
all the necessary clips and ties.
Electronic
control
unit
(ECU)
Note: If a new ECU is to be fitted, this work
must be entrusted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer or
suitably-equipped specialist as it is necessary
to program tlie new ECU after installation. This
work requires ttie use of dedicated Vauxtial!/
Opel diagnostic equipment or a compatible
75 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
76 Remove the plastic cover over the top ot
the engine.
77 Lift up the locking bars and disconnect the
two ECU wiring connectors (see illustration).
78 Undo the retaining bolt and disconnect
the earth lead trom the centre ot the ECU.
79 Disconnect the wiring connector at the
throttle body/housing and move the wiring
harness clear ot the ECU,
80 Undo the three retaining bolts and remove
the ECU from the Inlet manifold.
81 Refitting is a reversal ot removal.
Oxygen
sensors
82 Refer to Chapter 4C for removal and
refitting details,
15 Inlet manifold •removal and refitting
1.8 litre
Z18XE
3fc
engines
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery In the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
3 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A,
4 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Section 2.
5 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
In Section 5.
6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A.
7 Remove the alternator as described In
Chapter 5A.
8 Remove the fuel rail and injectors as
described in Section 12.
9 Undo the two boits and remove the inlet
manifold support bracket.
10 Disconnect the remaining vacuum hoses,
wiring connectors and auxiliary fittings to
enable removal of the inlet manifold.
14.77 Ltft up the locking bars and
disconnect the two ECU wiring connectors
11 Slacken and remove the retaining nuts
and manoeuvre the manifold assembly awav
from the engine. Remove the gasket and
discard it. Note: The manitalú assemblv must
be treated as a sealed unit: do not atterr.p:
to dismantle it as no components, other ¡fia"
the switchover diaphragm and solenoid, a-s
available separately.
Refitting
12 Refitting is the reverse of removal noting
the following.
a) Prior to refitting, ctieck tfie manifold studs
and renew any that are worn or damaged.
b) Ensure the manifold and cylinder mating
surfaces are clean and dry and fit the new
gasket. Refit the manifold and tighten the
retaining nuts evenly and progressively to
the specified torque.
c) Ensure that all relevant hoses are
reconnected to their original positions,
and are securely held (where necessary)
by their retaining clips.
d) On completion, refill the cooling system
as described in Chapter 1A.
1.8 litre Z18XER engines
Removal
www
*
.
15.22 Disconnect the wiring connector
(arrowed) from the evaporative emission
control system purge valve
28 Disconnect the wiring harness block
connector on the left-hand side of the inlet
manifold (see illustration).
29 Release the throttle housing coolant
hoses trom their clips and supports on the
inlet manifold and disconnect the hoses from
the coolant expansion tank and thermostat
housing. Move the hoses to one side,
30 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
manifold switchover valve diaphragm and
solenoid,
31 Undo the retaining bolt and detach the
wiring harness support bracket trom the
engine lifting bracket.
32 Disconnect the quick-release fitting and
detach the brake sen/o vacuum hose from the
inlet manifold.
33 Slacken and remove the seven retaining
bolts and manoeuvre the manifold assembly
away from the cylinder head. Remove the
gasket and discard it. Note: Tfie manifold
assembly must be treated as a sealed unit: do
not attempt to dismantle it as no components,
other than the switchover diaphragm and
solenoid, are available separately
Refitting
13 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
14 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
IB Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A.
16 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
Intake duct as described in Section 2.
17 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in Section 5,
18 Remove the throttle housing as described
in Section 9.
19 From under the car, disconnect fhe
34 Refitting is the reverse of removal noting
oxygen sensor wiring connector, then unclip
the foliov/ing.
the connector from the support bracket,
a) Ensure the manifold and cylinder head
20 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and
mating surtaces are clean and dry and fit
remove the inlet manifold support bracket,
the new gasket Refit the manifold and
21 Unclip the wiring harness from the base of
tighten the retaining bolts evenly and
the inlet manifold,
progressiveiy to the specified torque,
22 Disconnect the wiring connector trom the
bj Ensure t/iaf all relevant hoses are
evaporative emission control system purge
reconnected to their original positions,
valve (see illustration),
and are securely held (where necessary)
23 Slide the purge valve mbber mounting off
by their retaining clips.
the mounting bracket, then disconnect the
c)
On completion, refill the cooling system
vapour hose from the inlet manifold. Place the
as described In Chapter 1A.
valve to one side.
24 Unclip the wiring hamess trough trom the rear 2.2 litre engines
of the camshaft cover (see Ulustratlon 13.7),
25 Pull out the retaining wire clip and dis- Removal
connect the breather hose from the camshaft 35 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
cover (see Illustration 13.8),
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
26 Remove the engine management ECU as Reference Chaptei^.
described in Section 15.
36 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
27 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the the engine.
inlet camshaft W T oil control valve and the 37 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
four fuel injectors. Release the winng harness in Section 5.
from the support brackets and place it to one 38 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
side.
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
15.28 Disconnect the wiring harness block
connector on the left-hand side of the inlet
manifold
housing. Detach the intake duct from the
airflow meter and throttle housing, and remove
the duct fram the engine.
39 Remove the throttle housing as described
in Section 9.
;edures contained in
Chapter 40 and transfer the oxygen sensor to
the new pipe.
Catalytic converter
removal
15 The catalytic converter
part of the exhaust manifold
separated. Refer to Section
manifold removal and refitting
Heat shield(s)
is an integral
and cannot be
16 for exhaust
procedures.
removai
16 The heat shields are secured to the
underside of the body by various nuts and
threaded caps. Each shield can be removed
once the relevant exhaust section has been
removed. If a shield is being removed to gain
access to a component located behind tt, it
may prove sufficient in some cases to remove
the retaining nuts/caps, and simply lower the
shield, without disturbing the exhaust system.
If any of the threaded caps are damaged
during removal, a suitable nut and washer can
be used when refitting.
Refitting
17 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
sequence, noting tiie following points:
a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion tiave
been removed from the system joints and
renew all distuibed clamps.
b) Inspect the rubber mountings for signs
of damage or deteriomtion, and renew as
necessary.
c) When remting the front pipe to the
manifold (catalytic converter), use a
new gasket and new retaining nuts, and
tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
d) Prior to tightening the exhaust
system clamps, ensure that ail rubber
mountings are correctly located,
and that there is adequate clearance
between the exhaust system and vehicle
underbody. Tighten the clamp bolt
retaining nuts securely.
Chapter 4 Part B:
Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel engines
Contents
Section number
Air cleaner assembly and intake ducts - removal and refltting
3
Accelerator pedal/position sensor - removal and refitting
4
Exhaust manifold and tuitiocharger - removal and refitting
18
Exhaust system-general information, removal and refitting
19
Fuel filter crash box - removal and refttting
9
Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting
6
Fuel Injectors - removal and refitting
13
Fuel rail - removal and refitting
12
Fuel supply pump - removal and refitting
7
Fuel system - priming and bleeding
5
Section numlier
Fuel tank - removal and refitting
General information and precautions
High pressure diesel injection system - special Infomiation
High-pressure fuel pump - removal and refitting
Injection system electrical components - removal and refitting
Inlet manifold - removal and
refitting
Inlet manifold changeover flap actuator drive (Z19DTH engines)removal and refitting
Intercooler-removal and refitting
Turbocharger-description and precautions
8
1
2
11
10
14
15
16
17
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
-3^
Fairiy easy, suitable |
for beginner with
^
some experience
a
FaHydfficutt,
^
suitable for competent
IDIY mechanic
«
^
Difficult, suitable
^
for experienced DIY S
mecfianic
*
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
D I Y or professional
Specifications
Fuel s y s t e m d a t a
System type
Firing onler.
Fuel system operating pressure
Idlespeed
Maximum speed
High-pressure fuel pump
Fuel supply pump:
Type
Delivery pressure
injectors
Bosch EDO 16C9 or EDC 16C39 hlgti-pressure direct injection
'common-rail' system, electronically-controlled
1-3-4-2 { N o i at timing belt end of engine)
1400 bar at 2200 rpm
Controlled by ECU
Controlled by ECU
Bosch CP1H
Elecbic, mounted In fuel tank
3.3 bar (maximum)
Bosch CRIP 2-MI
^
^
^
Torque wrench settings
Alternator and tiigti-pressure fuel pump bracket bolts Camshaft sensor retaining bolt(s)
Catalytic converter clamp bolt
Charge (boost) pressure sensor retaining bolts
Crankshaft sensor retaining bolt
ECU bracket lower mounting Ixilt:*
Stage 1
Fuel injector clamp bracket m
Fuel pressure sensor to fuel rail
Fuel rail retaining nuts/bolts
High-pressure fuel pipe unions:
IWI12 union nuts
M14 union nuts
High-pressure fuel pump mounting bolts
Inlet manifoici bolts
Temperature sensor to diesel particulate filter..
TTirottle housing bolts:
Z19DT engines
219DTH engines
Turtxjcharger oil return pipe bolts:
M6 bolts
MB bolts
TurlDocharger oil supply pipe banjo union bolt.,
' Use new fasteners
1
General i n f o r m a t i o n
and precautions
1 The engmes are equipped with a
high-pressure direct injection system which
Incorporates the very latest in diesel injection
technology. On this system, a high-pressure
fuel pump is used purely to provide the
pressure required for the injection system and
has no contrai over the injection timing (unlike
conventional diesel injection systems). The
injection timing is controlled by the electronic
control unit (ECU) via the electhcally-operated
injectors. The system operates as follows.
2 The fuel system consists of a fuel tank
(which is mounted under the rear of the car.
with an electric fuel supply pump Immersed
In It), a fuel filter with integral water separator,
a high-pressure fuel pump, injectors and
associated components.
3 Fuel is supplied to the fuel filter housing
which is located in the engine compartment.
The fuel filter removes all foreign matter and
water and ensures that the fuel supplied to llie
pump is clean. Excess fuel is returned from
the outlet on the fiiter housing lid to the tank
via the fuel cooler. The fuel cooler is fitted to
the underside of the vehicle and is cooled by
Angle-tighten a further 120°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
25
25
20
20
45
18
18
15
15
33
32
25
60
70
25
24
18
44
52
ie
22
30
25
25
45
16
22
IB
18
33
25
9
18
7
9
25
15
7
18
11
the passing airflow to ensure the fuel is cool
before it enters the fuel tank.
4 The fuel Is heated to ensure no problems
occur when Ihe ambient temperature is
very low. This is achieved by an electricallyoperated fuel heater incorporated In the filler
housing, the heater is contraiied by the ECU.
5 The high-prassure fuel pump is driven at
half-crankshaft speed by the timing belt. Jtie
high pressure required in the system (up to
1350 bar) is pnaduced by the three pistons in
the pump. The high-pressure pump supplies
high pressure fuel to the fuel rail which acts
as a resen/oir tor the tour injectors. Since the
pump has no control over the injection timing,
there is no need to time the pump when
installing the timing belt,
6 The electrical control system consists of the
ECU. along with the following sensors:
a) Accelerator pedal position sensorinforms tfie ECU of tfie accelerator pedal
position, and the rate of throttle opening/
closing.
b) Coolant temperature sensor - informs the
ECU of engine temperature.
c) Airflow meter - informs the ECU of the
amount of air passing through the irrtalwed} and move the wiring trough and
harness to one side
12.20 Unscrew the union nuts securing the
high-pressure fuel ptpe to the fuel pump
and fuel rail
fuel pipe unions on the fuel rail, fuel pump
and injectore. Using two spanners, hold ttie
unions and unscrew the union nuts securing
the high-pressure fuel pipes to the fuel
injectors. Unscrew the union nuts securing
the high-pressure fuel pipes to the fuel rail,
vflthdraw the pipes and plug or cover the open
unions to prevent dirt entry (see illustration).
20 Using an open-ended spanner, unscrew
the union nuts securing the high-pressure
fuel pipe to the fuel pump and fuel rail (see
Illustration). Counterhold the unions on
the pump with a second spanner, while
unscrewing the union nuts. Withdraw the
high-pressure fuel pipe and plug or cover the
open unions to prevent dirt entry.
21 Disconnect the wiring connectors at
the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure
sensor, then release the clip and disconnect
ttie fuel return hose. Undo the two bolts and
remove ttie fuel rail (see illustratrans).
12.21b . . . then undo the two bolts
(anowed) and remove the fuel rail
Refitting
22 Refit tlie fuel rail and tighten the retaining
bolts to the specified torque. Reconnect the
fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure
sensor wiring connectors, and reconnect the
fuel return hose.
23 Working on one fuel injector at a time,
remove the blanking plugs from the fuel pipe
unions on the fuel rail and the relevant Injector.
Locate the new high-pressure fuel pipe over
the unions and screw on the union nuts finger
tight. Tighten the union nuts to the specified
torciue using a torque wrench and cn>w-foot
adaptor. Counterhold the union on the injector
with an open-ended spanner, while tightening
the union nui. Repeat this operation for the
remaining three injectors.
24 Similarly, fit the new high-pressure
fuel pipe to the fuel pump and fuel rail, and
tighten the union nuts to the specified tongue,
Counterhold the union on the pump with an
open-ended spanner, while tightening the
union nut.
25 Reconnect the battery negative temninal.
26 Observing the precautions listed in
Section 2, prime the fuel system as descritied
in Section 5, then start the engine and allow it
to idle. Check for leaks at the high-pressure
fuel pipe unions with the engine idling. If
satisfactory. Increase the engine speed to
4000 rpm and check again for leaks. If any
leaks are detected, obtain and fit a new
high-pressure fuel pipe.
27 Refit the engine cover on completion.
13 Fuel i n j e c t o r s r-
retnovai and refitting
^
^
A
Warning: Refer to tiie information
contained in Section 2 before
procwdlng.
Note 1: A new copper washer, retaining nut
and high-pressure fuel pipe wiil be required
for each removed injector when refitting.
Note 2: The injector is an extremely tight fit
in the cylinder head, and it is lilolts and tighten
securely.
24 Reconnect the wiring connectors to t f «
glow plugs.
25 Refit the throttle housing as described h
Section 10.
26 Refil the vacuum lines ronning over t t »
top of the camshaft cover and reconnect ttia
vacuum hoses.
27 Befit the high-pressure fuel pump as
described in Section 11.
28 Refit the exhaust gas recirculation (EGfl
vaive as described in Chapter 40,
29 Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
30 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
31 Observing the precautions listed In
Section 2, prime the fuel system as described
14.39 Unscrew the two nuts and free the
wiHng hamess and coolant pipes Irom the
starter mntor bracket
In Section 5, then start the engine and allow it
to idle. Check for leaks at the high-pressure
fuel pipe unions with the engine idling. If
satisfactory, increase the engine speed to
4000 rpm and check again for leaks. If any
leaks are detected, obtain and fit a new
high-pressure fuel pipe,
32 Refit the engine cover on completion.
Z19DTH
engines
Removal
33 Disconnect the battery negative temilnal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
34 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
35 Remove the fuel filter crash box as
described in Section 9.
36 Remove the high-pressure fuel pump as
described in Section 11.
37 Remove the exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR) valve as described in Chapter 4C.
38 Disconnect the four vacuum hoses then
undo the bolt(s) and remove the two vacuum
pipes over the top of the inlet manifold.
39 Unscrew the two nuts securing the wiring
harness and coolant pipes to the starter motor
bracket. Free the harness and pipes from the
bracket (see illustration).
40 Release the clips and disconnect ihe
crankcase breather hoses from the top and
bottom of the oil separator,
41 Remove the oil separator and vacuum
resen/oir mounting bracket by undoing the
two nuts above the vacuum reservoir, the bolt
at the base of the vacuum resen/oir, and the
bolt at the nght-hand side of the oil separator.
Remove the mounting bracket complete
with oil separator and vacuum reservoir (sea
illustrations).
42 Undo the three bolts, release the hose
clip, free the wiring harness and detach the
coolant pipe frcim the inlet manifold,
43 Screw two nuts onto the inner highpressure fuel pump mounting stud. Lock the
two nuts together and unscrew the stud from
the engine bracket (see illustration).
44 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
throttle housing and charge (boost) pressure
sensor.
45 Undo the nine retaining nuts and remove
14.41d . . . then remove the mounting
bracket complete with oil separator and
the inlet manifold from the cyiinder head studs
(see illushation). Recover the gasket.
46 With the manifold removed. If required,
remove the throttle housing with reference to
Section 10.
47 The changeover flap actuator drive can
be removed by disconnecting the drive motor
actuating rod ball socket, and undoing the two
stud bolts.
throttle body/housing and change (boost)
Refitting
48 if removed, refit the throttle housing
with reference to Section 10, then refit the
changeover flap actuator drive,
49 Thoroughly clean the inlet manifold and
cylinder head mating faces, then locate a new
gasket on the inlet manifold flange.
50 Locate the manifold in position and refit the
retaining nuts. Diagonally and progressively,
tighten the nuts to the specified tonque.
51 Reconnect the wiring connectore at the
52 Refit the high-pressure fuel pump
mounting stud, then remove the two nuts
used to remove/refit the stud.
53 Refit the coolant pipe to the manifold, and
secure witti the three bolts tightened securely,
Reconnect the coolant pipe and attach the
wiring harness.
54 Refit the oil separator and vacuum
reservoir mounting bracket. Refit and tighten
the two bolts and two nuts, then reconnect
the crankcase breather hoses.
55 Refit the coolant pipe and wiring hamess
to the starter motor bracket, then refit and
tighten the two nuts.
56 Refit the vacuum pipes over the manifold
and reconnect the four vacuum pipes.
57 Refit fhe exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)
valve as described in Chapter 4C.
14.43 Lock two nuts together and u
ttie luel pump stud from the engine bracket
14.46 Inlet manifold retaining nuts
(arrowed)
Ir o
Tighten all other retaining nuts and bolts
to the speciTied torque (where given).
d) Refit the exhaust system as described in
Section 19.
e) On completion refill the cooling system as
described in Chapter Wand, If necessary,
top-up the oil level as described in
•Weekly checks:
f) On starting the engine for the tirst time,
allow the engine to idle for a few minutes
before increasing the engine speed; this
will allow oil to be circulated around the
turbocharger tiearings.
19 Exhaust s y s t e m general information,
removal and refitting
General
^
^
^
information
M o d e l s w i t h o u t a particulate filter
1 Theexhaustsystem consists of four sections
comprising a primary catalytic converter, a
front pipe incorporating a secondary catalytic
converter, an intermediate pipe, and a tailpipe
and silencer.
2 The front pipe is attached to the primary
catalytic converter by a flange joint secured by
nuts. All other exhaust sections are joined by
overlap joints which are secured by clamps.
The system is suspended throughout its entire
length by rubber mountings.
M o d e l s w i t h a particulate filter
ling nuts
unit. The sections are then separated with the
system off the car,
6 The manufacturers specify that If any of the
exhaust sections are separated, the clamps
must be renewed. As the clamps are attached
tc the exhaust sections by means of a spot
weld at manufacture, it will be necessary
to use a suitable grinder to remove the spot
weld.
Complete system
removal
7 To remove the system, first jack up the front
and rear of the car and support it securely on
axle stands. Alternatively position the car over
an inspection pit or on car ramps. The help of
an assistant will be needed.
S Undo the retaining bolts and screws and
remove fhe engine undertray
9 On models equipped with a diesel
particulate filter, release the retaining clips and
disconnect the two differential pressure sensor
vacuum hoses from the two pipes adjacent to
the particulate filter. Unscrew the retaining nut
and remove the temperature sensor from the
diesel particulate filter
10 Spray some penetrating oil over the
exhaust rubber mounting blocks so that the
mounting blocks will slide easily on the exhaust
and undertMdy hangers (see illustration).
11 Undo the two bolts securing the front pipe
support bracket to the transmission bracket.
12 Undo the three retaining nuts and separate
the exhaust front pipe from the primary
catalytic converter, taking care to support the
flexible section. Note: Angular movement in
excess of 10" can cause permanent damage
to the flexible section. Recover the gasket
(see illustration). Note that new nuts will be
required for refitting,
13 On models equipped with a diesel
particulate filter, undo the two bolts securing
the particulate filter rear mounting bracket to
the underbody
14 Slide the front pipe rubber mounting
blocks as far forwand as possible. Move the
exhaust system to the rear and disengage the
tront pipe hangers trom the mounting blocks.
15 Move the exhaust system forward and
disengage the intermediate pipe and tailpipe
hangers from the rubber mounting blocks.
Lower the system to the ground and slide it
out from under the car.
Individual section
removal
16 Remove the complete system as
described previously.
17 If removing the front pipe on models
equipped with a diesel particulate filter, undo
the three nuts and separate ihe flange joint.
Recover the gasket.
18 To remove any other individual section,
slacken and remove the nut from the relevant
exhaust clamp retaining bolt. Apply liberal
amounts of penetrating oii to the joint and tap
around the joint and clamp with a hammer to
free it. Twist the pipe to be removed in both
directions while holding the adjacent pipe.
Once the joint is tree, pull the pipes apart,
19 Mark the position of the clamp on the pipe,
so the new clamp can be fitted in the same
position, then grind oft the clamp retaining
spot weld. Remove the clamp.
Primary catalytic
converter removal
20 Referto Section 18, paragraphs 1 to 93
for removal and refitting details for the primary
catalytic converter fitted between the exhaust
front pipe and manifold.
Heat shield(s}
removal
21 The heat shields are secured to the
underside of ihe body by various nuts and
threaded caps. Each shield can be removed
once the relevant exhaust section has been
removed. If a shield Is being removed to gain
access to a component located behind It, it
mav prove sufficient in some cases to remove
3 The exhaust system consists ot five
sections comprising a primary catalytic
converter, a front pipe, a diesel particulate
filter, an intermediate pipe, and a tailpipe and
silencer
4 The front pipe is attached to the primary
catalytic converter and diesel particulate filter
by flange joints secured by nuts. All other
exhaust sections are joined by overlap joints
which are secured by clamps. The system
Is suspended throughout its entire length by
rubber mountings.
All m o d e l s
5 To remove an individual exhaust section,
the complete system is first removed as a
19.12 Separate the exhaust front pipe from
the catalytic converter and recover the
gasket
the retaining nuls/caps, and simply lower the
shield, vjithout disturbing the exhaust system.
If any ol the threaded caps are damaged
during removal, a suitable nut and washer can
be used when refitting.
Refitting
22 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
sequence, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion have
new gastei and new retaining nuts, and
been removed from the system joints and
tighten the nuts to the specified torque
renev/ all disturbed clamps.
e) Prior to tightening tiie exhaust system
b) Vifhen refitting the pnmarycat^ytic
clamps, ensure that all mbber mountings
converter, refer to Section 18, paragrapti 27.
are conectly located, and tiiat there Is
c) Inspect the rubtier mountings for signs
adequate clearance ftehveen (he exhaust
of damage or deterioration, and renew as
system and vehicle underbody Tighten
necessary.
the clamp bolt retaining nuts to the
dj When reconnecting a flange joint, use a
specified torque.
Chapter4 PartC:
Emission control systems
Contents
Section n u m b e r
Catalytic converter - general information and precautions
Diesel engine emission control systems - testing and component
renewal
4
3
Section number
General Infonnation
Petrcil engine emission contrcil systems - testing and component
renewal
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice wIBi little
expeiience
^
^
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fairly difficult.
suitafcJe tor competent
DIY mechanic
Specifications
Torque w r e n c h settings
Petrol engines
EGR valve boHs:
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Oxygen sensor for catalytic converter (in exhaust front pipe):
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Oxygen sensor for mixture regulation (in exhaust manifold):
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engines
EGR valve heat exchanger mounting bolt
EGR vaive heat exchanger mounting nut
EGR valve heat exchanger pipe flange bolts
EGR valve mounting tiolts/nuts
Oxygen sensor
Particulate filter temperature sensor
Pre-catalytic converter temperature sensor
Vacuum reservoir mounting bracket bolts
^
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
5^
' 1
General i n f o r m a t i o n
1 All petrol engine models use unleaded
petrol and also have various other features
built into the fuel system to help minimise
harmful emissions. These include a cran incase
emission control system, a catalytic converter,
an evaporative emission control system and,
on certain models, an exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR] system to keep fuel vapour/exhaust gas
omissions down to a minimum.
2 All diesel engine models are also designed to
meet sthct emission requirements. Tbe engines
are fitted with a crankcase emission control
system, a catalytic converter and, on certain
models, a diesel particulate filter to keep
exhaust emissions down to a minimum. An
exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system is also
fitted to further decrease exhaust emissions.
3 The emission control systems function as
follows.
Petrol
engines
Crankcase emission control
4 To reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase into the
atmosphere, the engine is sealed and the
blow-by gases and oil vapour are drawn from
inside the crankcase, through an oil separator,
into the inlet tract to be burned by the engine
during normal combustion,
5 Under all conditions the gases are foroed
out of the crankcase by the (relatively) higher
crankcase pressure; it the engine is worn, the
raised crankcase pressure (due to increased
blow-by) will cause some of the flow to return
under all manifold conditions.
Exhaust emission control
6 To minimise the amount of pollutants which
escape into the atmosphere, all models are
fitted with a catalytic converter in the exhaust
system. The system is of the closed-loop type.
In which the oxygen sensors in the exhaust
system provides the fuel injection/ignition
system ECU with constant feedback, enabling
the ECU to adjust the mixture to provide the
bent oossible conditions for the converter to
operate-
petrol of 14,7 parts (by weight) of air to 1 part
of fuel (the 'stoichiometric' ratio). The sensor
output voltage alters in a large step at this
point, the ECU using the signal change as a
reference point and correcting the intake air/
fuel mixture accordingly by altenng the fuel
injector pulse width.
Evaporative emission control
9 To minimise the escape into the atmosphere
of unburned hydrocarbons, an evaporative
emissions control system is also fitted to all
models. The fuel tank filler cap is sealed and
a charcoal canister is mounted on the fuel
tank. The canister collects the petrol vapoure
oenerated in the tank when the car is parked
and stores them until they can be cleared
from the canister (under the control of the fuel
injection/ignition system ECU) via the purge
valve into the inlet tract to be burned by the
engine during normal combustion,
10 To ensure that the engine runs conectly
when it Is cold and/or idling and to protect
the catalytic converter from the effects of an
over-rich mixture, the purge control valve is
not opened by the ECU until the engine has
warmed-up, and the engine is under load; the
valve solenoid is then modulated on and off to
allow the stored vapour to pass into the inlet
tract.
Exhaust gas recirculation system
11 This system is designed to recirculate
small quantities ot exhaust gas into the inlet
tract, and therefore into the combustion
process. This process reduces the level of
unburn! hydrocartions present in the exhaust
gas before it reaches the catalytic converter.
Tbe system is controlled by the fuel injection/
ignition ECU, using the information from its
various sensors, via the electrically-operated
EGR valve mounted on a housing bolted to
the left-hand end of the cylinder head,
Diesel
engines
Crankcase emission control
12 Refer to paragraphs 4 and 5,
Exhaust emission control
7 Two heated oxygen sensors are fitted to
tne exhaust svstem. The sensor nearest
the ennine innrom the catalytic converter]
determines the residual oxygen content of
tne exnaust nases for mixture correction,
I no sensor in tho exhaust front pipe (after
the catalytic converter) monitors the function
of the catalytic converter to give the driver a
warning signal if there is a fault.
13 To minimise the level of exhaust pollutants
released into the atmosphere, two catalytic
converters, or one catalytic converter and a
diesel particulate filter are fitted in the exhaust
system, acconding to model,
14 The catalytic converter consists of a
canister containing a fine mesh impregnated
with a catalyst material, over which the hot
exhaust gases pass. The catalyst speeds up
the oxidation of harmful carbon monoxide and
unburned hydrocarbons, effectively reducing
the quantity of harmful products released info
the atmosphere via the exhaust gases,
B The oxygen sensor's tip is sensitive to
oxygen and sends the ECU a varying voltage
signal depending on the amount of oxygen in
the exhaust gases. Peak conversion efficiency
of all major pollutants occurs if the intake air/
fuel mixture is maintained at the chemicallycorrect ratio for the complete combustion of
15 On certain models, a diesel particulate
filter is incorporated in the exhaust system and
contains a silicon carbide honeycomb block
containing microscopic channels in which the
exhaust gases flow. As the gases flow through
the honeycomb channels, soot particles are
deposited on the channel walls. To prevent
clogging of the honeycomb channels, the soot
particles are burned off at regular intervals
during what is known as a 'regeneration
phase'. Under the control of the injection
system ECU, the injection characteristics
are altered to raise the temperature of the
exhaust gases to approximately 600°C.
At this temperature, the soot particles are
effectively burned off the honeycomb walls as
the exhaust gases pass through, A differential
pressure sensor and two temperature sensors
are used to infomi the ECU of the condition of
the particulate filter, and the temperature of the
exhaust gases during the regeneration phase,
V/hen the ECU detects that soot build-up is
reducing the efficiency of the particulate filter,
It will instigate the regeneration process.
This occurs at regular intervals under certain
driving conditions and will normally not be
detected by the driver.
Exhaust gas recirculation system
16 This system is designed to recirculate small
quantities of exhaust gas into the inlet tract,
and therefore into the combustion p
process reduces the level of unburnt
hydrocarbons present in the exhaust gas before
it reaches the catalytic converter. The system is
controlled by the injection system ECU, using
the information from its various sensors, via t f »
electrically-operated EGR valve,
2
Petrol e n g i n e e m i s s i o n
c o n t r o l s y s t e m s - testing
and component renewal
^
^
C r a n k c a s e emission
control
1 Tbe components of this system require no
attention other than to check that the hose(s)
are clear and undamaged at regular inten/als.
Evaporative
emission
control
Testing
2 If the system is thought to be faulty,
disconnect the hoses from the charcoal
canister and purge control vaive and check
that they are clear by blowing through them.
Full testing of the system can only be carried
out using specialist electronic equipment
which is connected to the engine management
system diagnostic connector If the purge
control valve or charcoal canister are thought
to be faulty, they must be renewed.
Charcoal canister renewal
3 The charcoal canister is located on the fuel
tank. To gain access to the canister, remove
the fuel tank as described in Chapter 4A.
4 With the fuel lank removed, disconnect
the vapour hose quick-release fittings at the
charcoal canister,
5 Detach the locking clamp and release the
canister from its mounting bracket on the fuel
tank. Remove the canister from the tank.
6 Refitting Is a reverse of the removal
procedure, ensuring the hoses are correctly
and secur^y reconnected.
Purge valve renewal
7 The purge valve le mounted on the inlet
manifold (see illustration). For Improved
access, v/here necessary, remove the air cleaner
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
8 To renew the valve, ensure the ignition is
switched off then depress the retaining clip
and disconnect the wiring connector trom the
valve.
9 Disconnect the hoses fmm fhe valve, noting
their correct fitted locations then unclip and
remove the valve from the engine.
10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring the valve is fitted the
correct way around and the hoses are securely
connected.
Exhaust
emission
control
Testing
11 The performance of the catalytic converter
can be checked only by measuring the
exhaust gases using a good-quality carefullycalibrated exhaust gas analyser.
12 If the CO level at the tailpipe is too high,
the vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall/
Opel dealer or engine diagnostic specialist so
that the complete fuel injection and ignition
systems. Including the oxygen sensors, can
be thoroughly checked using diagnostic
equipment. This equipment will give an
Indication as to where the fault lies and the
necessary components can then be renewed.
Catalytic c o n v e r t e r r e n e w a l
13 The catalytic converter is an integral part
of the exhaust manifold. Exhaust manifold
removal and refitting procedures are contained
in Chaptw4A.
Oxygen sensor renewal
Note 1: TTjere are two fieated oxygen sensors
fitted to tfie exfmust system. The sensor in the
exhaust manifold is for mixture regulation and
the sensor In the exhaust front pipe is to checl<
the operation of the catalytic converter (see
Section 1).
Note 2: The oxygen
IS delicate and
will not work if it is dropped . )r knocked, if its
power supply is disrupted, i >r if any cleaning
materials are used on it
14 Warm the engine up to
3l operating
temperature then stop the engine and
disconnect the tiattery negative terminal (refer
to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference
Chapter). Remove the plastic cover from the
top of the engine.
15 For fhe sensor fitted in the exhaust front
pipe, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack
up the front of the car and support it securely
on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
support).
16 Trace the wiring back from the oxygen
sensor w^ich is to be renewed, and disconnect
its wiring connector, freeing the wiring from
any relevant retaining clips or ties and noting
its correct routing.
Caution: Take great care not burn yourself
on the hot mantfoW/sensor,
2.7 lyplcal purge vahre location
(arrowed)
17 Unscrew the sensor and remove it from
the exhaust system front pipe/manifold (see
illustration). Where applicable recover the
sealing washer and discard it; a new one
should be used on refitting.
18 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, using a new sealing washer (where
applicable). Prior to installing the sensor,
apply a smear of high-temperature grease to
the sensor threads (Vauxhall/Opel recommend
the use of special grease available from your
dealer). Tighten the sensor to the specified
torciue and ensure that the wiring is correctly
routed and in no danger of contacting either
the exhaust system or engine.
Exhaust
gas
recirculation
Testing
19 Comprehensive testing of the system can
only be carried out using specialist electronic
equipment which Is connected to the engine
management system diagnostic connector.
EGR valve renewal
20 Ensure the ignition is switched off then
disconnect the wiring connector from the EGR
valve which mounted at the left-hand end of
the cylinder head (see illustration).
21 Undo the mounting bolts and remove the
valve from Its location. Recover the gasket.
22 Refitting is the reverse of removal uang a
new gasket and tightening the valve tiolts to
the specified torciue.
3
Diesel e n g i n e e m i s s i o n
c o n t r o l s y s t e m s - testing
and component renewal
Crankcase
emission
^
^
*t
should be taken to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer so
that the complete fuel injection system can be
thoroughly checked.
Catalytic c o n v e r t e r /
particulate filter renewal
3 Refer to Chapter 4B, for removal and
refitting details.
O x y g e n s e n s o r / p r e - c a t a lytic
converter t e m p e r a t u r e s e n s o r renewal
Note: An oxygen sensor is fitted to vehicles
without a diesel particulate filter, and a
pre-catalytic converter temperature sensor is
fitted to vehicles vnth a diesel particulate filter
Bath sensors are screwed into the exhaust
manifold and the removal and refitting details
are identical.
4 Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature then stop the engine and
disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer
to Disconnecting the battery in tiie Reference
Chapter), Remove the plastic cover from the
top of the engine,
5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Undo the retaining bolts and screws and
remove the engine undertray
6 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector,
then unclip the wiring plug from the bracket
on the front of the transmission.
Caufron: Tatie great care not burn yourself
on the hot manifold/sensor.
7 Unscrew the sensor and remove it from the
exhaust manifold (see Illustration).
8 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
control
1 The components of this system require
no attention other than to check that the
hose(s) are clear and undamaged at regular
Intervals.
Exhaust
emission
control
Testing
2 The performance of the catalytic converter(s)
and diesel particulate filter can only be
checked using special diagnostic equipment.
If a system fault Is suspected, the vehicle
2.20 Disconnect the
(arrowed) from the EGR valve
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter). Rwiove the plastic cover
over the top of the engine.
26 Disconnect the EGR valve wiring
connector.
27 Unscrew the two bolts on the top of the
valve and detach the metal EGR pipe flange
from the base of the valve. Recover the gasket
(see Illustration).
28 Unscrew the two nuts and two bohs
securing the EGR valve to the inlet manifold
and lift off the engine cover bracket (see
3.7 Unscrew ttie oxygen sensor (arrowed)
and remove it from the exhaust manifold
procedure Prior fo installing the sensor, apply
a smear of high-lemperature grease to the
sensor threads (Vauxhall/Opel recommend
the use of a special grease available from your
dealer). Tighten the sensor to the specified
tonque and ensure that the wiring is correctly
routed and in no danger of contacting either
ttte exhaust system or engine.
Particulate filter
t e m p e r a h i r e s e n s o r renewal
9 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Undo the retaining bolts and screws and
remove the engine undertray.
10 Trace the wiring from the sensor back to
the connector in the engine compartment.
Disconnect the wiring connector, then release
the wiring frc>m the clips on the underbody.
11 Unscrew the retaining nut and remove the
temperature sensor from the diesel particulate
filter
12 Refitting is the reverse of removai tightening the sensor retaining nut to the specified
tonque.
Differential pressure s e n s o r renewal
13 The differential pressure sensor is located
on ihe side of the fuel filter crash box in the
engine compartment.
14 Disconnect the pressure sensor wiring
connector
15 Undo the retaining nut and withdraw the
sensor frcim the fuel filter crash box.
16 Noting their correct fitted positions,
release the retaining clips and disconnect the
3.27 Unscrew the two bolts, detach the
metal EGR pipe flange and recover the
gasket
3.23 EGR valve retaining boHs (arrowed)
two vacuum hoses from the sensor. Remove
the sensor from the engine compartment.
17 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Exhaust
system
gas
recirculation
Testing
18 Comprehensive testing of the system can
only be canied out using specialist electronic
equipment virhich Is connected to the Injection
system diagnostic wiring connector.
EQR valve renewal - Z19DT engines
19 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery In the
Reference Chapter). Remove the plastic cover
over the top of the engine.
20 Disconnect the EGR valve wiring
connector.
21 Undo the two bolts and disconnect the
metal EGR pipe from the throttle housing.
Recover the gasket,
22 Undo the two bolts securing the EGR
heat exchanger metal pipe to the base of the
valve.
23 Undo the three bolts securing the EGR
valve to the inlet manifold (see illustration).
Remove the valve together with the engine
lifting eye bracket and recover the gasket
fitted on each side of the lifting eye bracket.
24 Refitting is the reverse of removal using
new gaskets and tightening the retaining bolts
to the specifled tonque.
EGR valve renewal - Z19DTH engines
25 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
3.28 Unscrew the two nuts and two boHs
(arrovwd) securing the EQR vahre to the
inlet manifold
29 To provide sufficient clearance to remove
the valve, it wili be necessary to unscrew the
two mounting studs from the manifold. To do
this, lock two nuts together on each stud and
remove the studs by unscrewing the inner
nut.
30 With the studs removed, lift off the valve
and recover the gasket (see Illustration).
31 Refitting is the reverse of removal using
new gaskets and tightening the retaining nuts
and bolts to the specified torque.
EGR valve heat e x c h a n g e r
renewal - Z19DT engines
32 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
33 Remove the plastic cover over tiie top of
the engine.
34 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
35 Slacken the retaining clips and remove
the charge air pipe from the throttle housing
and intacooler.
36 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the two coolant hoses from the metal coolant
pipe assembly at the rear of the engine.
37 Unscrew the two nuts securing the wiring
harness and coolant pipe assembly to the
starter motor bracket and the nut securing the
pipes to the thermostat housing stud. Free the
harness and pipes from the bracket.
38 Slacken fhe retaining clips securing the
remaining coolant hoses to the coolant pipe
assembly and manoeuvre the pipe assembly
from the engine.
39 Undo tbe two bolts securing the rear metal
EGR pipe to the EGR valve. Undo the retaining
nut and boit and release the metal EGR pipe
clamp from the EGR valve heat exchanger.
a s o Lift off the valve end recover the
Separate the pipe from the heat exchanger
and recover the gasket from the pipe fitting.
40 Similarly, undo the retaining nut and bolt
and release the tront metal EGR pipe clamp
fnam the EGR valve heat exchanger.
41 Free the vacuum reservoir mounting
bracket fnam the rear of the cylinder block by
undoing the three mounting bracket retaining
bolts.
42 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the two coolant hoses from the EGR valve heat
exchanger Undo the retaining nut and bolt
securing the heat exchanger to the cylinder
head and remove the heat exchanger from the
engine.
43 Refitting is the reverse of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) Renew all disturbed gaskets and seals,
b} Tighten the retaining bolts/nuts to the
specified torque.
c) Rem the battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A.
d) Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
EGR valve heat exchanger
renewal - Z19DTH engines
44 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
45 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
46 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
47 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the two coolant hoses from the metal coolant
pipe assembly at the rear of the engine.
48 Unscrew the two nuts securing the wiring
harness and coolant pipe assembly to the
starter motor bracket and the nut securing the
pipes to the thennostat housing stud. Free the
harness and pipes from tiie bracket.
49 Slacken the retaining clips securing the
remaining coolant hoses to the coolant pipe
assembly and manoeuvre the pipe assembly
from the engine.
50 Remove the thermostat housing as
described in Chapter 3.
51 Slacken the retaining clips and remove
the charge air hose from the turbocharger and
intercooler.
52 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the coolant hose from ttie metal coolant pipe
at the front of tiie engine.
53 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the coolant hoses from the EGR valve heat
exchanger.
54 Undo the two bolts securing the rear metal
EGR pipe to ttie EGR valve. Undo the retaining
nut and bolt and release the metal EGR pipe
clamp from the EGR valve heat exchanger.
Separate the pipe from the heat exchanger
and recover the gasket from the pipe fitting.
55 Similariy, undo the two bolts securing the
front metal EGR pipe to ihe exhaust manifold.
Undo the retaining nut and bolt and release
the metal EGR pipe clamp from the EGR valve
heat exchanger. Separate the pipe from the
heat exchanger and recover the gasket from
ihe pipe fitting.
56 Undo the two bolts and remove ihe heat
exchanger from the engine.
57 Refitting is the reverse of removal, bearing
in mind fhe following points:
a) Renew ali disturlsed gaskets and seals.
b) Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
tongue.
c) Refit the thennostat housing as described
in Chapter 3.
d) Refit the battery tray and battery as
described in Chapter SA.
e) Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter W.
4
Catalytic c o n v e r t e r general information
and precautions
1 The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
Petrol
engines
a) DO NOT use leaded petrol (or LRP) in a
car equipped with a catalytic converter
- the lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b) Always keep the Ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer's schedule.
c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the car at all (or at least as Uttie as
possible) until the fault Is cured
d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the car this will soak the catalytic converter in
unbumed fuel, causing it to overheat
when ttie engine does start.
e) DO NOT switch off the Ignition at high
engine speeds.
f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter
g) DO NOT continue to use tiie car If the
engine bums oil to the extent of leaving a
visible tiail of blue smoke.
h) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures.
DO NOT, therefore, park the car In dry
undergrowtii, over long grass or piles of
dead leaves after a long nin.
I) Rememtier that the catalytic converter
is FRAGILE - do not strike it wltii tools
during servicing work.
j) In some cases a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped cars and
once the car has covered a few thousand
miles the problem should disappear. It
may also be caused by the brand of petrol
used.
k) The catalytic converter, used on a wellmaintained and well-driven car, should last
for between 50 000 and 100 000 miles - if
tiie converter Is no longer effective it must
be renewed.
Diesel
engines
2 Refer to the information given In parts f, g,
h, i and k of the petrol engines information
Chapters Part A:
Starting and charging systems
Contents
Section numtier
Section number
Alternator - removal and refitting
Wternator - testing and overtiaul
Auxiliary drivetielt - removal and refitting
Auxiliary drivetielt lensioner - removal and refitting
Battery and battery box - removal and refitting
Battery-testing and charging
Charging system - testing
Electrical fault finding - general infonnation
General information, precautions and battery disconnection
Glow plugs [diesel engine models) - removal, inspection and
refitting
8
9
6
7
4
3
5
2
1
17
Ignition switch - removal and refitting
13
Oil level sensor-removal and refitting
15
Oil pressure warning light switch - removal and refitting
14
Pre/post-heating system (diesel engine models) - descnption and
testing
16
Pre/post-heating system control unit (diesel engine models) - removal
and refitting
18
Starter motor - removal and refitting
11
Starter motor-testing and overhaul
12
Starting system - testing
10
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
FaiHydifncuK,
%
suitable for c o m p e t e n t ^
DfY mechanic
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
«
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
General
Electrical system type
Battery
Type
Charge condition:
Poor
Normal
Good
12 volt negative earth
Lead-acid, 'maintenance-free' (sealed for life)
12.5 volts
12.6 volts
12.7volts
^
|J»
3c
Torque w r e n c h settings
Alternator:
Petrol engine models:
1.8 litre Z18XE engines:
Alternator mounting bracket to cylinder block
Alternator-to-mounting bracket lower bolt
Alternator-to-mounting bracket upper bolt
1-8 litre ZISXER engines:
Alternator mounting bolts
2.2 litre engines:
Alternator mounting bolts
Diesel engine models:
Alternator mounting boits
Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner:
Petrol engine models:
1.8 litre engines:
Z18XE
ZISXER
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
Engine mountings (2.2 litre petrol engines):
Front mounting/torque link bracket to transmission
Frant mountingAonque link to subframe
Rear mounting/tonque link bracket to transmission
Rear mounting/tonąue link to transmission bracket
Right-band engine bracket-to-cylinder liead bolts
Right-hand mounting-to-body bolts/nut
Right-hand mounting-to-engine bracket bolts
Exhaust system fnxit pipe to catalyCc converter (2.2 litre petrol engines) .
Glow plugs
Oil pressure warning light switch:
Petrol engine models:
1,8 litre engines:
Z18XE
ZIBXER
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
Roadwheel tx>lts
Starter motor:
Petrol engine models;
1.8 litre Z18XE engines:
Inlet manilold support bracket to cylinder block
Inlet manifold support bracket to manifold
Starter motor mounting bolts
1.8 litre ZISXER engines:
Inlet manifold support bracket bolts
Starter motor mounting bolts
2.2 litre engines:
Starter motor mounting bolts
Diesel engine models
1
Generaf i n f o r m a t i o n ,
p r e c a u t i o n s a n d battery
disconnection
Tbo onciine electncal system consists mainly
of the charging and starting systems, and
the diesel engine pre/post-heat ing system.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are covered separately
fram the body electrical devices such as the
lights, instruments, etc (which are covered In
Nm
Ibff
35
35
20
26
26
15
35
26
20
15
60
44
35
50
43
50
26
37
32
37
80
80
80
80
55
55
55
20
10
69
59
59
59
41
41
41
15
7
30
20
18
22
110
22
16
13
1S
81
35
20
25
26
15
18
8
25
6
18
40
25
30
Chapter 12). On petrol engine models refer to
Part B for information on the ignition system.
The electrical system is of 12-vclt negative
earth type.
The battery is of the maintenance-free
(sealed for iife) type, and is charged by the
alternator, which is belt-driven from the
crankshaft pulley.
The starter motor is of pre-engaged type
incorporating an integral solenoid. On starting,
the solenoid moves the drive pinion into
engagement with the flywheei/drivepiate ring
ia
gear before the starter motor is energised.
Once the engine has started, a one-way clutch
prevents the motor armature being driven bf
the engine until the pinion disengages.
Further details of the various systems are
given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given,
the usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned.
Precautions
It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the eiectrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistofs), and to avoid the risi< ol
personal Injury. In addition to the precautions
given in Safety firstl at the beginning of this
manual, observe the following when working
on the system:
• Always remove rings, watches, etc, before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, capacitlve discharge
could occur if a component's live terminal is
earthed through a metal object. This could
cause a shock or nasty burn.
• Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as ttie alternator electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably
damaged.
• If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive-to-positive and negative-tonegative (see Jump starting). This also applies
when connecting a battery charger but in this
case both of the battery temiinals should first
be disconnected,
• Never disconnect the battery terminals,
the alternator, any electrical wiring or any test
instruments when the engine is mnning.
• Do not allow the engine to turn the alternator
when the alternator is not connected.
• Never test for alternator output by flashing
the output lead to earth.
• Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
• Always ensure that the battery negative
lead Is disconnected when working on the
electrical system.
• Before using electric-arc welding equipment
on the car, disconnect the battery, alternator
and components such as the fuel injection/
ignition electronic control unit to protect them
from the risk of damage.
Battery
disconnection
Referlotheprecautionslisted in Disconnecting
the battery in the Reference Chapter.
.2
Eiectrtcai fault f i n d i n g general information
Referto Chapter 12.
?3
i~
Batterytesting and charging
•n-aditional and
low maintenano
batteiy
1 If the vehicle covers aI small
smallai
annual mileage,
it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity
of the electrolyte every three months to
determine the state of charge of the battery.
Use a hydrometer to make the check and
compare the results with the following table.
Note that the specific gravity readings assume
an electrolyte temperature of 15*^; for every
10°C below 15°C subtract 0.007. For every
I C C above IS'C add 0.007.
Ambient temperature
Above
Below
25''C
25"C
Fully-charged 1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.290
70%charged 1.170to1.190
l.230toi.250
Discharged
1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130
2 If the battery condition is suspect, first check
the specific gravity of electrolyte in each cell,
A variation of 0.040 or more between any cells
Indicates loss of electrolyte or deterioration of
the internal plates.
3 If the specific gravity variation Is 0,040 or
more, the battery should be renewed. If the
cell variation is satisfactory but the battery is
discharged, it should be charged as described
later in ttiis Section.
Maintenance-free battery
4 Where a 'sealed for life' maintenance-free
battery is fitted, topping-up and testing of the
electrolyte in each cell is not possible. The
condition of ttie battery can therefore only be
tested using a battery condition indicator or a
voltmeter.
5 Some models are f i t t e d w i t h a
maintenance-free battery with a built-in
'magic-eye' charge condition indicator. The
indicator is located In the top of the battery
casing, and indicates the condition of ihe
battery from its colour (see lllustratLon). If
the indicator shows green, then the battery
is in a good state of charge. If the indicator
turns darker, eventually to black, then the
battery requires charging, as described later
in this Section. If the Indicator shows clear/
yellow, then ihe electrolyte level In ttie battery
is too low to allow further use, and the battery
should be renewed. Do not attempt to charge,
load or jump start a battery when the indicator
shows clear/yellow.
All battery types
6 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,
connect the voltmeter acnass the battery
and compare the result with those given in
the Specifications under 'charge condition'.
The test is only accurate if the battery has
not been subjected to any kind of charge for
the previous six hours. If this is not the case,
switch on ttie headlights for 30 seconds, then
wait four to five minutes before testing the
battery after switching off the headlights. All
other electrical circuits must be switched off,
so check that tiie doors and tailgate are fully
shut when making the test.
7 If ttie voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,
then the battery is discharged, whilst a reading
of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates a partiallydischarged condition.
8 If the battery Is to be charged, remove if
from the vehicle (Section 4) and charge it as
described later in this Section.
3,5 Battery rfiarge condition Indicator'Deico- type battery
Charging
Note: The following Is intended as a guide
only Alvmys refer to the manufacturer's
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery
Traditional and
low maintenance battery
9 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4 amps
and continue to charge the battery at this rate
until no further rise In specific gravity Is noted
over a four hour period.
10 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging
at the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used
overnight.
11 Specially rapid 'boost' charges which are
claimed to restore the power of ttie battery in
1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they
can cause serious damage to the battery
plates through overtieating.
12 While charging the battery, note that the
temperature of the electrolyte should never
exceed 38''G.
Maintenance-free battery
13 This battery type takes considerably
longer to fully recharge than the standand
type, tiie time taken tieing dependent on ihe
extent of discharge, but it will take OTything
up to three days.
14 A constant voltage type charger is required,
to be set, when connected, to 13.9 to 14.9 volts
with a charger ounent below 25 amps. Using
this method, the battery should be usable
within three hours, giving a vox,
3 Where fitted, unclip the insulation jacket and
lift open the jacket cover (see illustration).
4 Disconnect the lead at the negative (-)
terminal by unscrewing the retaining nut
and removing the terminal clamp (see
Illustrations). Note that the battery negative
(-) and positive (+) terminal connections are
stamped on the battery case.
5 Disconnect the lead at the positive (+)
terminal by
ins the retaining n ; and
Refitting
Note: As a precaution, before refitting the
battery checlz that ali doors are uniocked.
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
smear petroleum jelly on the terminals after
reconnecting the leads to reduce corrosion,
and always reconnect the positive lead first,
followed by the negative lead.
Battery box
Removal
9 Remove tho battery as descnbed previously
1 ^
4.12 On diesel engine models, unclip the
pre/post-heating system control unit from
the side of the battery box
4.4a Unscrew the battery negative (-)
terminal retaining n u t . . .
4.11 Depress the tab and release the
positive cable tenninal box from the side
of the battery box
10 Release the cooiant expansion tank hose
from the clips on the side ot the battery box
(see Illustration).
11 Depress the plastic tab and release the
positive cable tenninal box from the side of
the battery box (see illustration).
12 On diesel engine models, unclip the pre/
post-heating system control unit from the side
of the battery box (see illustration).
13 On 2.2 litre automatic transmission
models, unclip the transmission electronic
control unit mounting bracket and lift the
control unit and bracket upwands and out of
the battery box,
14 Depress the retaining tab and lift out the
battery box comer panel (see illustrations).
15 Release the battery cable guides Inam the
base of the battery box, by depressing the
retaining tabs with a small screwdriver, and
pulling outwands (see illustration).
16 Undo the three retaining bohs and lift
-
4.14a Depress the retaining t a b . . .
4.14b . . . and lift out the battery box
comer panel
the battery box up and out of the e
compartment (see illustration).
Refitting
17 Befitting is a reversal of removal.
5
Charging
testing
Note: Refer to the precautions given in 'Safety
firsti- and in Section 7 of this Chapter before
starting wortr.
1 If the ignition no-charge warning light fails
to illuminate when the ignition is switched on,
first checl( the alternator wiring connections
for security. If satisfactory, check the condition
of all related fuses, fusible links, winng
connections and earthing points, if this fails
to reveal the fault, the vehicle shouid be taken
to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer or auto-electrician,
as further testing entails the use of specialist
diagnostic equipment.
2 If the ignition warning light illuminates when
the engine is running, stop the engine and
check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt
(see Chapter 1A or 1B) and the security of the
alternator wiring connections, if satisfactory,
have the alternator checked by a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or auto-olectrician,
3 if the alternator output is suspect even
though the warning light functions correctly
the regulated voltage may be checked as
follows.
4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals, and start the engine,
5 Increase the engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; the reading
should be appnaximately 12 to 13 volts, and
no more than14volts.
6 Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg, the headlights, heated rear window and
heater blower) as possible, and check that the
4.15 Depress the rt
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
araundl3,5to14-5 volts.
7 If the regulated voltage is not as staled,
the fault may be due to worn brushes, weak
brush springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a
faulty diode, a severed phase winding, or
worn or damaged slip-rings. The alternator
should be renewed or taken to a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or auto-electrician for testing
and repair
6
Auxiliary d r i v e b e l t removal and refitting
Refer lo Chapter l A or I B
7
'
Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner
- removal and refitting
Removal
1.8 litre petrol e n g i n e s
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the ftwit of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (sea Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A.
3 Undo the central mounting bolt, and remove
the tensioner assembly from the engine (see
Illustrations).
2.2 litre petrol engines
7.3a Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner1.8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
7 Central mounting bolt
2 Locking tool
4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
5 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
6 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
7 Remove the righl-hand front roadwheel.
8 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A.
9 Undo the three nuts securing the exhaust
system front pipe to the catalytic converter,
taking care to support the flexible section.
Note: Angular movement in excess of W
4.16 Undo the three boKs (vFOwed) and
lift out the battery box
can cause permanent damage to the flexible
section. Separate the flange joint and recover
the gasket.
10 Undo the through-bolt secuhng the rear
engine mounting/torque link to the mounting
bracket, and the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission. Remove
the mounting bracket from under the car
11 Unscrew the nut and remove the
through-bolt securing the front engine
mounting/torque link to the subframe.
12 Connect a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the right-hand end of the engine and support
its weight. If available, the type of support bar
which locates in the engine compartment side
channels is to be preferred.
13 Mark the bolt positions for correct
refitting, then undo the three bolts securing
the right-hand engine mounting to the engine
bracket, and the two boits and one nut
securing the mounting to the body Remove
the mounting.
14 Using the hoist, carefully raise the
right-hand end of the engine until the bolts
securing the engine mounting bracket to the
cylinder head are accessible. Undo the three
bolts and remove the engine bracket,
15 Reposition the hoist as necessary, then
undo the drivebelt tensioner central mounting
bolt. Remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine (see Illustration).
Diesel engines
16 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
tfie front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands Ises Jackina and vehicle siinoorb.
7.3b Auxiliary drivetKlt tensioner
mounting bolt (arrowed) 1.8 litre ZISXER petrol engines
2.2 litre petrol engines
17 Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
18 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter IB.
19 Undo the central mounting bolt, and
remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine (see illustration).
RemUng
1.8 litre petrol e n g i n e s
20 Place the tensioner assembly in position
ensuring that the locating pegs on the
tensioner mounting surace engage correctly
w/ith Hie corresponding holes In ihe mounting
bracket. Tighten the tensioner central
mounting bolt to the specified torque.
21 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
22 Refit the roadwheel then lower fhe oar to
the ground. Tighten the roadwhe^ bolts to the
specified torque.
2.2 litre petrol engines
23 Place the tensioner assembly in position
ensuring that the locating peg on the tensioner
mounting surface engages correctly with the
corresponding hole In the timing chain cover.
Tighten the tensioner central mounting txilt to
the specified tonque.
24 Refit the engine mounting bracket to the
cylinder head and tighten the three retaining
bolts to the specified torque.
25 Locate ihe right-hand engine mounting
in position, then refit the three bolts securing
the mounting to the engine bracket and the
two bolts and one nut securing tiie mounting
to the body. Align the mounting in its original
position, then tighten the bolls and nut to the
specified ion^ue.
26 Remove the hoist and lifting tackle from
ihe engine.
27 Refrt the through-bolt and nut securing
the front engine mouniing/tonque link to the
subframe. Tighten the nut to the specified
torciue.
28 Place the rear engine mounting/torque link
mounting bracket in position and refit the three
and remove the
bolts securing ihe bracket to tiie transmission.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
29 Refit the rear engine mounting/torque
link thrciugh-bolt and tighten the bolt to the
specified tonque.
30 Using a new gasket, refît ihe exhaust front
pipe flange joint to the catalytic converter and
tighten tiie three retaining nuts to the specified
tongue,
31 Refit fhe auxiliary drivebelt as described in
ChapterIA.
32 Refit ihe roadvrtieel then lower ihe car to
the ground. Tighten fhe roadwheel bolts to the
specified tonque.
33 Refer to Chapter 4A If necessary and refit
the air cleaner assembly and air intake duct.
34 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal
8
Alternatorremovai and refitting
^
gJiflllflilrillTltttllWtHifellllffiriliil^'
Re/nova/
35 Place the tensioner assembly in position
ensuring that the locating peg on the tensioner
mounting surface engages con-ectly with the
conesponding hole in the mounting bracket.
Tighten the tensioner central mounting bolt to
the specified tongue.
3$ Refit tiie auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter IB.
37 Refit the rciadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighigffi tiie roadwheel bolts to the
specified torque.
1.8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front rciadwheel.
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
4 Release the quick-release fittings and
disconnect the two evaporative emission
control purge valve vacuum hoses. Disconnect
the wiring connector, undo the retaining bolt
and remove the purge valve.
5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in ChapterIA.
6 Undo the central mounting bolt, and remove
the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner assembly from
the engine (see illustration 7.3a).
7 Remove the upper alternator mounting
bolt.
8 Slacken the lower alternator bolt, and swing
the alternator to the rear
9 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring
connector and move the cable to one side.
10 Remove the mbber covers (where frtted)
from the alternator terminals, then unscrew
the retaining nuts and disconnect the wiring
from the rear of the alternator.
11 Slacken and remove the bolts securing
the alternator mounting bracket to the cyiinder
block, then manoeuvre the alternator and
bracket assembly upwarcls and out of position
8.11 /Uternator mounting bracket bolts
(arrowed) - 1 ^ litre ZieXE petrol engines
12 Undo the bolt securing ihe alternator to
its mounting bracket and separate the two
components {see illustration).
Diesel engines
8.12 Undo the bolt securing the aHernalor to
its mounting bracket and separate the two
components - 1 . 8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
1.8 litre Z18XER petrol engines
13 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tlie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
14 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vetiicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
15 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1A.
16 Remove the rubber covers (where fitted)
from the alternator terminals, then unscrew
the two retaining nuts and disconnect the
wiring from the rear of the alternator
17 Unscrew the upper and lower mounting
bohs and withdraw the alternator upwards
from the block.
2.2 litre petrol engines
18 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery m the
Reference Chapter).
19 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the nght-hand front roadwheel.
20 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as descnbed in Chapter 4A.
21 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1A.
22 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A,
23 Release the retaining clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the cylinder head.
24 Release the quick-release fittings and
8.30 Alternator mounting bracket bolts
arrowed - 2.2 litre petrol engines
8.29a Undo the retaining n u t . ,
disconnect the two evaporative emission
contrai purge valve vacuum hoses. Disconnect
the wiring connector, then unclip and remove
the purge valve,
25 Unscrew the nut and remove the
through-bolt securing the front engine
mounting/tonque link to the subframe.
26 Connect a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the right-hand end ot the engine. If available,
the type of support bar which locates in the
engine compartment side channels is to be
prefened.
27 Mark the bolt positions for con-ect refrtting,
then undo the two bolts and one nut securing
the right-hand engine mounting to the body
28 Using the hoist, carefully raise the
nght-hand end of the engine approximately
3.5 cm.
29 Unscrew the retaining nut and disconnect
the wiring terminal (see Illustrations), then
unplug the winng block connector from the
rear of the alternator
30 Slacken and remove the four alternator
mounting boWs. and manoeuvre the alternator
out of position (see lllustratton).
8.29b . . . and disconnect the wiring
tenminal - 2.2 litre petrol engines
34 Undo the alternator lower front mounting
bolt (see Illustration).
35 Remove the fuel filter crash box as
described in Chapter 4B,
36 On Z19DTH engines, undo the two bolts
securing the wiring harness support bracket
to the high-pressure fuel pump mounting
bracket, Unclip the wiring harness as
necessary and move it clear of the alternator
37 Unscrew the two retaining nuts and
disconnect Ihe wiring connectors from the
alternator terminals.
38 Undo the alternator upper rear mounting
bolts and manoeuvre the alternator upwards
and out of position (see illustration).
Refitting
1.8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
31 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
32 Finnly apply the handbrake, then Jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
33 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1B,
39 Refit the mounting bracket to the alternator
and secure with the mounting txilt, lightened
finger-tight only at tliis stage.
40 Manoeuvre the alternator and mounting
bracket assembly into position and refit the
mounting bracket retaining bolts. Tighten the
bolts to the specifed torque.
41 Reconnect the wiring to the alternator
terminals and tighten the retaining nuts
securely Where applicable, refit the rubtier
covers to the alternator terminals.
42 Reconnect the wiring to the oil pressure
switch.
43 Refit the alternator upper mounting bolt,
then tighten the upper and lower mounting
bolts to the specitied tonque.
44 Place the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner
8.34 Alternator lower front mounting bolt
(arrowed) - diesel engines
8.38 Alternator upper rear mounting bolts
(arrowed) - diesel engines
Diese) engines
assembly in position ensuring that the locating
pegs on the tensioner mounting surface
engage conectly with the corresponding holes
in the mounting bracket. Tighten the tensioner
central mounting boit to the specified torque,
45 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
46 Refit the evaporative emission control
purge valve and secure with the mounting
bolt. Reconnect the two vacuum hose
quick-release fittings.
47 Refh the air cleaner assembly and air
Intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
48 Refit the roadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the
specified torque.
49 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative tenninai.
1.8 litre ZISXER petrol engines
50 Manoeuvre the alternator into position
and refit the upper and lower mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
51 Reconnect the wiring to the alternator
terminals and tighten the retaining nuts
securely. Where applicable, refit the rubber
covers lo the alternator terminals.
62 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
53 Refil the roadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighten tho roadwheel boNs to the
specified torque.
54 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal.
2.2 litre petrol engines
55 Manoeuvre the alternator into position and
iBfit the four retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts
to the specified tomue.
66 Reconnect the alternator wiring block
connector and the terminal wiring, tightening
the retaining nut securely
57 Lower the engine until Ihe right-hand
engine mounting contacts the body.
68 Refit the two bolts and one nut securing
the mounting to the body Align the mounting
in Its original position, then tighten the bolts
and nut to the specified torque.
59 Remove the hoist and lifting tackle from
the engine.
60 Refit the through-bolt and nut securing
Ihe front engine mounting/torque link to the
subframe. Tighten the nut to the specified
torque.
61 Refit the emission control purge valve,
then reconnect the vacuum hoses and wiring
connector
62 Reconnect the radiator top hose to the
cylinder head.
63 Retit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
64 Refil the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A,
86 Refit the roadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighten the roadwheel t>oits to the
specified torque.
66 Reconnect the battery negative tenninal,
then refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1 A.
Diesel engines
67 Manoeuvre the alternator into position and
refit the upper rear retaining bolt(s). Tighten
the bolt(s) finger-tight only at this stage.
68 Reconnect the wiring to the alternator
terminals and tighten the retaining nuts securely
69 On Z19DTH engines, refit the wiring
harness support braci^el to fhe fuel pump
mounting bracket and secure with the two
bolts. Clip the wiring harness back Into
position In the bracket.
70 Refit the alternator lower front mounting
bolt, then tighten the upper and lower
mounting bolts to the specified torque.
71 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter IB.
72 Refil the fuel filter crash box as described
in Chapter 4B.
73 Refit the roadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts fo the
specified torque.
74 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative ten-ninai.
9
Alternatortesting and overhaul
3^
If the alternator is thought to be suspect,
it should be removed from the vehicle and
taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most
auto-eleclricians will be able lo supply and fit
bmshes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs before proceeding as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange alternator
10 Starting s y s t e m testing
Note: Refer to the precautions given in 'Safety
first!' and in Section 1 ol this Chapter before
starting work.
1 If the starter motor fails to operate when
the ignition key is turned to the appropriate
position, the possible causes are as follows:
a) Tfie engine immobiliser is faulty.
b) The battery is faulty.
c) The electncal connections between the
switch, solenoid, battery and starter
motor are somewhere failing to pass
the necessary current from the tiattery
through the starter to earth.
d) The solenoid is faulty.
e) The starter motor is mechanically or
electrically defective.
2 To check the battery, switch on the
headlights. If they dim after a few seconds,
this indicates that the battery is discharged recharge fsee Section 3) or renew the battery.
If the headlights glow brightly operate the
starter switch while watching the headlights.
If they dim, then this indicates that cun-ent
is reaching the starter motor, therefore Ihe
fault must lie in the starter motor If Ihe lights
continue to glow brightly (and no clicking
sound can be heard from the starter motor
solenoid), this indicates that there is a fault
in the circuit or solenoid - see the following
paragraphs. If the starter motor turns slowly
when operated, but the battery is in good
condition, then this indicates either that the
starter motor is faulty, or there is considerable
resistance somewhere in the circuit.
3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery leads (including the earth
connection to the body), the starter/solenoid
wiring and the engine/transmission earth
strap. Thoroughly clean the connections, and
reconnect the leads and wiring. Use a voltmeter or test light to check lhat full battery
voltage is available at the battery positive lead
connection to the solenoid. Smear petroleum
jelly around the battery terminals to prevent
corrosion - corroded connections are among
the most frequent causes of electrical system
faults.
4 if the battery and all connections are in good
condition, check the circuit by disconnecting
the ignition switch supply wire from the solenoid
terminal. Connect a voltmeter or test lamp
between the wire end and a good earth (such
as the battery negative terminal), and check
that the wine is live when the ignition switch is
turned to the 'start' position. If it is, then the
circuit is sound - if not the circuit wiring can be
checked as described in Chapter 12.
5 The solenoid contacts can be checked by
connecting a voltmeter or test light between
the battery positive feed connection on the
starter side of the solenoid and earth. When
the ignition switch is turned to the 'start'
position, there should be a reading or lighted
bulb, as applicable. If there is no reading or
lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should
be renewed.
6 If the circuit and solenoid are proved sound,
the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this
event, it may be possible to have the starter
motor overhauled by a specialist, but check
on the cost of spares before proceeding, as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange motor.
11 Sterter m o t o r removai and refittingr
Removal
1.8 litre petrol engines
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to O/sconnecf/ng the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle supped).
3 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring at the
cable connector below the inlet manifold.
4 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the support bracket from the underside of the
inlet manifold.
5 Slacken and remove the two retaining nuts
and disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor solenoid. Recover the washers under
the nuts.
6 Where applicable, unscrew the retaining nut
and disconnect the earth lead from the starter
motor upper bolt.
7 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts
then manoeuvre the starter motor out from
underneath the engine.
2.2 litre petrol engines
8 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tho battery in the
Reference Chapter).
9 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front ot the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jaddng and vehicle support).
10 Disconnect the wiring connector at the oil
level sensor located on the front face of the
sump.
11 Slacken and remove the two retaining
nuts, release the cable tie and disconnect
the wiring from the starter motor solenoid.
Recover the washers under the nuts.
12 Disconnect the crankshaft sensor wiring
connector.
13 Slacken and remove the two retaining
bolts then manoeuvre the starter motor out
from underneath the engine.
11.16d . . . a n d lift off the plastic engine
cover ~ Z19DT diesel engines
Diesel engines
14 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
15 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front ot the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
16 On Z19DT engines, remove the oil filler
cap and unscrew the two bolts securing
the plastic cover over the top of the engine.
Release the engine breather hose, then lift
off the cover and refit the oil filler cap (sae
illustrations). On Z19DTH engines, remove
the plastic cover by pulling it upwards off the
mounting studs.
17 Undo the retaining bolts and screws and
remove the undertray from beneath the engine,
18 Slacken and remove the two retaining nuts
and disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor solenoid (see illustration}. Recover the
washers under the nuts,
19 Unscrew the retaining nut and disconnect
the earth lead from the starter motor lower
stud bolt (see Illustration).
20 Open the retaining clips and release
the two heater hoses from the coolant pipe
support bracket.
21 Undo the two nuts and release the wiring
harness from the support bracket atjove the
starter motor (see Illustration).
22 Carefully lift the cooling system expansion
tank out of its mounting bracket and place the
tank to one side.
23 Unscrew the starter motor tower stud
bolt and the two upper mounting bolts (see
illustration). Collect the wiring harness
support bracket then manoeuvre the starter
motor upwards and out of position.
Refitting
24 Refitting is a reversal of removal
tightening the retaining bolts lo fhe specified
torque. Ensure all wiring is correctly
routed and its retaining nuts are securely
tightened.
11.18 Undo the nuts (arrowed) and
disconnect the starter solenoid wiring
- diesel engines
11.19 Unscrew the nut (arrowed) and
disconnect the earth lead from the starter
motor stud bolt - diesel engines
11.21 Undo the nuts and release the wiring
harness from the support bracket - diesel
11,23 Unscrew the botts (am)wed), collect
the wiring hamess bracket and remove ttie
starter from above - diesel engines
rning light switch
eZtSXE petrol engine:
12 Starter m o t o r testing and overtiaul
If the starter motor is thought to be suspect,
it should be removed irom the vehicle and
taken to an auto-electrician for testing, Ivfost
auto-electricians wiii be able to supply and fit
bmshes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs liefore proceeding as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange motor
. 13 Ignition s w i t c h removal and refitting
The switch is integral with the steering
column lock, and removal and refitting is
described in Chapter 10,
14 Oil p t ^ s s u r e
w a r n i n g light s w i t c h removal and refitting
1 ^ litre Z18XE petrol engines
1 The switch is screwed into tho ro
14,8 Oil pressure warning light switch
(arroweo) - 2.2 litre petrol engines
refer to Chapter 3 and unbolt the air
conditioning compressor from the cylinder
block without disconnecting the refrigerant
lines. Support the compressor lo one side
for access to the oil pressure warning light
switch7 Disconnect the wiring connector then
unscrew the switch and recover the sealing
washer. Be prepared for oil spillage, and if the
switch IS to be left removed from the engine for
any length of time, plug ttie switch aperture,
2.2 litre petrol e n g i n e s
8 The switch is screwed into the front of the
cylinder block, behind the starter motor (see
Illustration). To gain access to the switch, it
will be necessary to remove the starter motor
as described in Section 11.
9 Disconnect the wiring connector then
unscrew the switch and recover the sealing
washer. Be prepared for oil spillage, and if the
switch is to be left removed from the engine for
any length ot time, plug the switch aperture.
Diesel engines
10 The switch is screwed into the oil filter
housing at the rear of the engine (see
11 Finriiy apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
12 Undo the retaining bolts and screws
iinu remove the undertray from beneath the
engine.
13 Disi
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
3 Disconnect the winng connector then
unscrew the switch and recover the sealing
washer Be prepared for oil spillage, and if the
switch is to be left removed from the engine
for any length of time, plug the switch aperture
(see illustration),
Refitting
14 Examine the sealing washer for signs
of damage or deterioration and if necessary
15 Befit the switch and washer, tightening
it to the specified torque, and reconnect the
winng connector
16 On 2.2 litre petrol engines, refit the starter
motor as described in Section 11.
17 On diesel engine models, refit the engine
undertray.
IB Lower the vehicle to the ground then
check and, if necessary, top-up the engine oil
as described in Weekly checks.
15 Oil level s e n s o r removal and refitting
;^
Removal
1.8 litre Z18XE pefrol engines
1 The oil level sensor is located on the front
face of the engine sump,
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
3 Drain the engine oil into a clean container
then refit the drain plug and tighten it to the
specitied torque (see Chapter 1 A).
4 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
5 Unscrew the retaining bolts then ease
the sensor out from the sump and remove
it along with its sealing ring/washer. Discard
the sealing ring/washer, a new one should be
used on refitting (see illustration).
All other engines
1.8 litre Z18XER petrol e n g i n e s
4 The oil pressure warning light switch is
screwed into the front of the cylinder block.
5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 On models equipped whh air conditioning.
14.10 Oil pressure warning lights'
(arrowed) - diesel engines
washer. Be prepared for oil spillage, and
if the switch is to be left removed from the
engine for any length of time, plug the switch
aperture.
1S.S Remove the oil level sensor am
renew ttie seal - 1.8 litre Z18XE
petrol engines
6 The oil level sensor is located inside the
sump which must first be removed (see the
appropriate Part of Chapter 2).
7 With the sump removed, slide off the
retaining clip and free the sensor wiring
connector from the sump (see Illustration).
8 Where fitted, undo the retaining bolts and
15.7 Slide off the retaining clip (am>wed}
and free ti>e oil level sensor wiring
connector from the sump
remove the oii baffie plate from inside the
sump (sea illustration).
9 Note the correct routing of the wiring then
undo the retaining tiolts and remove the sensor
assembly from the sump (see illustration).
Cheolt the wiring connector seal for signs or
damage and rem
Refitting
1.8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
10 Refitting is the reverse of removal ensunng
the wiring is correctly routed and securely
reconnected. On completion refiti the engine
with oil (see Chapter 1A).
All other engines
11 Prior to refitting remove ail traces of
locking compound from the sensor retaining
troit and sump threads. Apply a drop of fresh
locking compound to the bolt threads and
lubricate the wiring connector seal with a
smear of engine oil.
12 Fit the sensor making sure the winng
is correctly routed, and securely tighten its
retaining bolts. Ease the wiring connector
through the sump, taking care not to damage
its seal, and secure it in position with the
retaining clip.
13 Ensure the sensor is correctly refitted then,
where applicable, refit the oil baffle plate.
14 Refit the sump as described in the
appropriate Part of Chapter 2.
-16 Pre/post-heating system
(diesel e n g i n e models) description and testing
^
Description
1 Each cyiinder of the engine is fltted with a
heater plug (commonly called a glow plug)
screwed into it. The plugs are electricallyoperated before and during start-up when
the engine is cold. Electrical feed to the glow
plugs Is controlled via the pre/post-heating
system control unit.
2 A warning light in the instrument panel tells
the driver that pre/post-heating is taking place.
When the light goes out, the engine is ready
to be started. The voltage supply to the glow
plugs continues for several seconds after the
light goes out. If no attempt is made to start.
15.8 Where fitted, undo the retaining bolts
and remove the oil baffle plate
the timer then outs off the supply, in order to
avoid draining the battery and overheating the
glow plugs.
3 The glow plugs also provide a 'post-heating'
function, whereby the glow plugs remain
switched on after the engine has started.
The length of time 'post-h eating' takes place
is also determined by the control unit, and is
dependent on engine temperature.
4 The fuel filter is fitted with a heating element
to prevent the fuel 'waxing' in extreme cold
temperature conditions and to improve
combustion. The heating element is an integral
part of the fuel filter housing and is controlled
by the pre/post-heating system control unit.
resting
5 If the system malfunctions, testing is
ultimately by substitution of known good units,
but some preliminary checks may be made as
follows.
6 Connect a voltmeter or 12 volt test lamp
between the glow plug supply cable and earth
(engine or vehicle metal). Make sure that the
live connection is kept clear of the engine and
bodywort<.
7 Have an assistant switch on the ignition,
and check that voltage is applied to the glow
plugs. Note the time for which the warning
light is lit, and the total time for which voltage
Is applied before the system cuts out. Switch
off the ignition.
8 At an underbonnet temperature of 20*0,
typical times noted should be approximately 3
seconds for warning light operation. Warning
light time will increase with lower temperatures
and decrease with higher temperatures.
9 If there is no supply at all, the control unit or
associated wiring is at fault,
10 To locate a defective glow plug, disconnect
Ihe wiring connector from each plug,
11 Use a continuity tester, or a 12 volt
lest lamp connected to the battery positive
terminal, to check for continuity between each
glow plug tenninal and earth. The resistance
of a glow plug in good condition is very low
(less than 1 ohm), so if the test lamp does
not light or the continuity tester shows a
high resistance, the glow plug is certainly
defective.
12 If an ammeter is available, the current
draw of each glow plug can be checked.
After an Initial surge of 15 to 20 amps, each
15.9 Undo the two bolts (arrowed) and
remove the oil level sensor Irom the sump
plug should draw 12 amps. Any plug which
draws much more or less than this is probably
defective,
13 As a final check, the glow plugs can be
removed and Inspected as described in the
following Section.
1 7 G l o w p l u g s (diesel engine
models) - removal,
inspection and refitting
i,^
^
Caution: It the pre/post-heating
system
has just been energised, or if the engine
has been running, thm glow plugs will be
very hot.
Removal
1 Tbe glow plugs are located at the rear of the
cylinder head above the inlet manifold,
2 On 219DT engines, remove the oil filler cap
and unscrew the two bolts secunng the plastic
cover over the top of the engine. Release the
engine breather hose, then lift off fhe cover and
refit the oil filler cap (see illustrations I l . l 6 a
to l l . l S d ) . On Z19DTH engines, remove
the plastic cover by pulling it upwards off the
mounting studs.
3 On Z19DT engines, undo the two retaining
bolts, disconnect the four vacuum hoses and
remove the vacuum pipe assembly from the
top of the camshaft cover.
4 Disconnect the wiring from the glow plugs
by squeezing the connectors with thumb and
forefinger, and pulling them from the plugs,
5 Unscrew the glow plugs and remove them
from the cylinder head (see Illustration).
17.5 Unscrew the glow plugs and
them from the cylinder head Z19DTH diesel engines
Inspection
6 Inspect each glow plug for physical
damage. Burnt or eroded glow plug tips can
be caused by a bad injector spray pattern.
Have the injectors checked if this type of
damage is found.
7 If the glow plugs are in good physical
condition, check them electrically using a 12
volt test lamp or continuity tester as described
in the previous Section,
8 The glow plugs can be energised by
applying 12 volts to them to verify that they
heat up evenly and in the required time.
Observe the following precautions.
a) Support ths glow plug by clamping It
carefully in a vice or self-locking pliers.
Remember it wilt become red-hot.
b) Mate sure that the power supply or test
lead incorporates a fuse or overload trip
to protect against damage fromashortc) After testing, allow the glow plug to cool
for several minutes before attempting to
handle it
9 A glow plug in good condition will start
to glow red at the tip after drawing current
for 5 seconds or so. Any plug which takes
much longer to start glowing, or which starts
glowing in the middle instead of at the tip, is
defective.
Refitting
10 Carefully refrt the plugs and tighten to the
specified torque. Do not overtighten, as this
can damage the glow plug element. Push
the electrical connectors fimly onto the glow
plugs.
11 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
removal, checking the operation of the glow
plugs on compietior-.
18 Pre/post-heating s y s t e m
control unit (diesef engine
modefe) - removal and refitting
^
Removal
1 The pre/post-heating system control unit
is located on fhe left-hand side of the engine
compartment where it is mounted onto the
side of the battery box.
18.3 Unolip the control unit and slide It up
and off the battery box
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chaptei^,
3 Unclip the control unit and slide it up and
off the battery box (see illustration).
4 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
base of the control unit and remove the unit
from the engine compartment.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Chapter 5 Part B:
Ignition system - petrol engines
Contents
Section number
Section number
jgnilion module - removai and refitting
Ignition system - general information
Ignition system - testing
3
1
2
4
5
Ignition timing - checlting and adjustment..
Knock sensor - removal and refitting
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fairly difficult.
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
^
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
;K
3c
DIY or professional
3c
Specifications
General
System type
System application:
1,8 litre engines:
Z1SXE
ZISXER
2.2 litre engines
Location of No 1 cylinder
Rringorder
Dlstributorless ignition system
Simtec71.5
Simtec 75.1
Simtec 81,1
Timing chain/timing belt end of engine
1-3-4-2
Torque wrench setting
Ignition module retaining bolts
1
Ignition s y s t e m general information
Ttie ignition system is integrated with the
fuel injection system to form a combined
engine management system under the contnal
oi one electnanic control unit (ECU) - see
Chapter 4A for further information. The ignition
side of the system is of the dlstributorless
type, and consists of the ignition module and
the knock sensor
The ignition module consists of four ignition
coils, one per cylinder in one casing mounted
directly above the spark plugs. This module
eliminates the need for any HT leads as the
coils locate directly onto the relevant spark
plug. The ECU uses its inputs from the various
sensors to calculate the required ignition
advance setting and coll charging time.
The knock sensor is mounted onto the
cylinder block and informs the ECU when the
engine is 'pinking' under load. The sensor
is sensitive to vibration and detects the
knocking which occurs when the engine starts
to 'pink' (pre-ignite). The knock sensor sends
Nm
8
an electrical signal to the ECU which in turn
retards the ignition advance setting until the
'pinking' ceases.
The ignition systems fitted to the engines
covered by this manual all operate in a similar
fashion under the overall contn^l of the engine
management ECU. The systems comprise
various sensors (whose inputs also provide
data to contml the fuel injection system) and
the ECU, in addition to the ignition module
and spark plugs. Further details of the system
sensors and the ECU are given in Chapter 4A,
The ECU selects the optimum ignition
advance setting based on the mformation
received from the various sensors, and fires
the relevant ignition coil accordingly. The
degree of advance can thus be constantly
varied to suit the prevailing engine operating
conditions.
A
Warning: Due to ttio high voltages
produced try the electronic ignition
' system, extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with
the ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically-Implanted
cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the ignition
circuits, components and test equipment.
IW ft
6
2
Ignition s y s t e m testing
1 if a fault appears in the engine management
system, frst ensure lhat all the system wiring
connectors are securely connected and free
of corrosion. Ensure that the fault is not due
to poor maintenance; ie, check that the air
cleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped,
the cylinder compression pressures are conect
and that the engine breather hoses are clear
and undamaged, referring to Chapters 1A, 2A
and 2B for further infonnation.
2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause of
the problem, the vehicle should be taken to
a suitably-equipped Vauxhall/Opel dealer or
engine management diagnostic specialist
for testing. A diagnostic socket is located at
the base of the facia, behind the ashtray, to
which a fault code reader or other suitable
test equipment can be connected (see
illustration). By using the code reader or test
equipment, the engine management ECU can
be interrogated, and any stored fault codes
£ 2 The vehicle diagnostic socket
(arrowed) is located at the base of the
facia, behind the ashtray
3.2 On 1.8 litre Z18XER engines, rt
the ignition module cover by sikling it
towards the transmission and lifting off
can be retrieved. This will allow the fault to be
quickly and simply traced, alleviating the need
to test all the system components individually,
which is a time-consuming operation that
carries a risk of damaging the ECU,
3 The only ignition system checks which
can be carried out by the home mechanic
are those described in Chapter 1A relating
to the spark plugs. If necessary, the system
wiring and wiring connectors can be checked
as described in Chapter 12, ensuring that
the ECU winng connector(s) have first been
disconnected.
2 On 1,8 litre Z18XER engines, unclip the
wiring trough from the left-hand end of the
cylinder head, then remove the cover from
the ignition module by sliding it towards the
transmission and lifting off (see illustration),
3 On 2.2 litre engines unclip and lift off the
plastic engine cover, then lift off the cover
over the ignition module (see Illustration),
4 Disconnect the wiring connector at the
left-hand end of the ignition module (see
illustration).
5 Undo the retaining bolls, and lift the module
up and out of position (see illustration). If the
module proves reluctant to separate from the
spark plugs, insert two long 8 mm bolts into
the threaded holes in the top of Ihe module,
and pull up on the bolts to free the module
from the plugs.
6 With the module removed, check the
condition of the sealing gnammets and renew
if necessary (see illustration).
3
;
Ignition m o d u l e -
^
removal and refitting
^
Removal
1 On 1.8 litre Z18XE engines, remove the oil
filler cap and unscrew the two trolls securing
the plastic cover over the top of the engine.
Lift off the cover and refit the oil filler cap.
3.3 On 2.2 litre engines, remove the enqine
cover, then unclip and lift olt the ignrtion
module cover
4
Ignition t i m i n g checking and adjustment
Due to the nature of the ignition system, the
ignition timing Is constantly being monitored
and adjusted by the engine management
ECU.
The only way in which the ignition timing can
be checked is by using specialist diagnostic
test equipment, connected to the engine
management system diagnostic socket. No
adjustment of the ignition timing is possible.
Should the ignition timing be incorrect, then
a lault IS likely to be present in the engine
management system.
5
K n o c k sensor removal and
Refitting
7 Refitting is the reversal of removal, tightening
the retaining botts to the specified tongue.
3,5 Undo the retaining bolts and pull the
ignition module up ana orf tne sparK plugs
^
3.6 Check the condition of the sealing
grommets ana rene
^
Chapter 6
Clutch
Contents
Section number
Section number
Clutch assembly - removal, inspection and refitting
Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding
Clutch pedal - removal and refitting
6
2
6
General Information
Master cylinder - removal and refitting . .
Release cylinder - removal and refitting..
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
^
Fairiy easy, suitable I
for tieginner with
|
some experience
^
Fairly difficult,
|
suitable for competent 3
Difficult, suitable
^
for experienced DIY >
mechanic
v
Veiy difficult,
suitable for expert ;
DIY or professional •
Specifications
Type
Single dry plate with diaphragm spring, hydraulically-operated
Friction disc
Diameter;
Petrol engine models:
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
New lining thickness:
Petrol engine models:
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
Torque wrench settings
ABS hydraulic modulator mounting bracket bolts
Brake master cylinder retaining nuts'
Clutch master cylinder retaining nuts*
Pedal mounting bracket nuts"
Pressure plate retaining bolts:
M7 bolts
MB bolts
Release cylinder mounting bolts
Vacuum sen/o unit stud bolts*
* Use new nuts/bolts
205 mm
228 mm
239 mm
7.65 mm
8.4 mm
7.8 mm
Nm
ibffi
20
50
20
20
15
37
15
15
15
28
5
20
11
21
4
15
have been fitted, or if fhe system has been
completely drained of hydraulic fluid. If the
system has only been disconnected to allow
component removal and refitting procedures
to be carried out. such as removal and refitting
of the transmission (for example for clutch
renewal) or engine removal and refitting, then
it is quite likely that nonnal bleeding will be
sufficient.
4 Our advice would therefore be as follows:
a) If the hydraulic system has only been
partially disconnected, try bleeding by
the conventional methods described in
paragraphs 10 to 15, or 16 to 19.
2 C l u t c h h y d r a i i i i c s y s t e m -b) If the hydraulic system has been
bleeding
completely drained and new components
have been fitted, try bleeding by using the
pressure bleeding metfiod described in
paragraphs 20 to 22.
Note: On models equipped witii ttie Easytronic
0) If tiie above methods fail to produce
transmission, tlie foiiowing manual method
a firm pedal on completion, it will be
of bleeding the clutch is not possible since
the hydraulic control unit is integral with the
necessary to 'tuack-bleed' the system
transmission. On these models, bleeding is
using Vauxhall/Opel bleeding equipment,
carried out using the VauxhallfOpel TECH2
or suitable alternative equipment as
diagnostic instrument, therefore this work
descrilDed in paragraphs 23 to 28.
should be entnjsted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer. 5 During the bleeding procedure, add
only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the
Warning:
Hydraulic
fluid
is
recommended
type; never re-use fluid that
poisonous; wash off immediately
and thoroughly in the case of
has already been bled from the system.
skin contact, and seek immediate medical
Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before
advice if any fluid is swallowed or gets
starting work.
into the eyes. Ceiiain types of hydraulic
6 If there Is any possibility of incorrect fluid
fluid are flammable, and may ignite when
being already in the system, the hydraulic
allowed into contact with hot components;
circuit must be flushed completely with
when servicing any hydraulic
system,
uncontaminated, correct fluid.
it is safest to assume that the fluid is
7 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the
system, or air has entered because of a leak,
dtots
the rfsft of ffre as though it is petrol that Is ensure that the fault is cured t>efore continuing
being handled. Hydraulic fluid Is also an further
effective paint stripper, and will attack
8 The bleed screw is located in the hose
plastics; if any is spilt, it should be washed
end fitting which is situated on the top of
off immediately, using copious quantities the transmission housing (see illustration).
of fresh water Finally, it is hygroscopic (ft On some models access lo the bleed screw
absorbs moisture from the air) - old fluid
is limited and it may be necessary to jack up
may be contaminated and unfit for further the frant of the vehicle and support it on axle
use. When topping-up or renewing the
stands so that the screw can be reached from
fluid, always use the recommended type,
below, or remove the battery and battery box
and ensure that it comes from a freshlyas described in Chapter 5A, so that the screw
opened sealed container.
can be reached from above.
1 The correct operation Of any hydraulic 9 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
system is only possible after removing all unions tight and the bleed screw is closed.
air fram the components and circuit; this is Clean any dirt from around tiie bleed screw.
achieved by bleeding the system.
2 The manufacturer stipulates that the system Bleeding
must be initially bled by the 'back-bleeding'
method using Vauxhall/Opel special bleeding Basic (two-man) m e t h o d
equipment. This entails connecting a pressure 10 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length
bleeding unit containing fresh brake fluid to the of plastic or rubber tubing which Is a tight fit
release cylinder bleed screw, with a collecting over the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fH
vessel connected to the brake fluid master the screw. The help of an assistant will also be
cylinder reservoir. The pressure bleeding unit required.
is then switched on, the bleed screw is opened
11 Unscrewthemastercylinderfluidreservoir
and hydraulic fluid is delivered under pressure, cap (the clutch shares the same fluid reservoir
backwards, to be expelled from the reservoir as the braking system), and top the master
into the collecting vessel. Final bleeding is cylinder reservoir up to the upper (MAX) level
then earned out in the conventional way
line. Ensure that the fluid level is maintained at
3 In practice, this method would normally least above the lower level line in the n
only be required if nem hydraulic components throughout the prc>cedure.
selector lever. Ttiere is no conventional clutcti
pedal fitted.
The Easytronic system essentially consists
of a conventional manual gearbox and clutch
fifted with electrical and hydraulic controls,
the clutch being operated by a clutch module
attached to the side of the transmission
casing. Refer to Chapter 7C for more
information. The clutch component removal
and refitting procedures are included in this
Chapter as they are very similar to those for
the standard manual transmission.
3 Clutch bleed screw
(arrowed)
" 1
Qetieral i n f o n n a t i o n
The clutch consists of a friction disc, a
pressure plate assembly, and the hydraulic
release cylinder (which incorporates the
release bearing}: all of these components are
contained in the large cast-aluminium alloy
bellhousing, sandwiched between the engine
and the transmission.
The friction disc Is fitted between the engine
flywheel and the clutch pressure plate, and
is allowed to slide on the transmission Input
shaft splines.
The pressure plate assembly is bolted to the
engine flywheel. When the engine is mnning.
drive Is transmitted from the crankshaft,
via the flywheel, to the friction disc (these
components being damped securely together
by the pressure plate assembly) and from the
friction disc to the transmission Input shaft.
To interrupt the drive, the spring pressure
must be relaxed. This is achieved using a
hydraulic release mechanism which consists
of the master cylinder, the release cylinder and
the pipe/hose linking the two components.
Depressing the pedal pushes on the master
cylinder pushrod which hydraulically forces the
release cylinder piston against the pressure
plate spring fingers. This causes the springs
to deform and releases the clamping force on
the friction disc.
The clutch is self-adjusting and requires no
manual adjustment.
The clutch pedal support and clutch pedal
are one assembly and must be renewed
as a complete unit. In the event of a frontal
collision, the clutch pedal is released from its
bearing in the support bracket to prevent injury
to the driver's feet and legs (this also applies
to the brake pedal). If an alrbag has been
deployed, inspect the clutch pedal assembly
and if necessary renew the complete unit.
Setni-automotic
clutch
Models equipped with the Easytronic MTA
(Manual Transmission with Automatic shift), are
fttted with a semi-automatic clutch. The clutch
may be operated either fully-automatically
or semi-automati cai ly by means of the gear
A
Clutch
12 Remove the dust cap from the bleed
screw. Fit the spanner and tube to the screw,
place the other end of ttie tube in the Jar, and
pour in sufficient fluid to cover the end of the
tube.
13 Have the assistant fully depress fhe clutch
pedal several times tc build-up pressure, then
maintain it on the final down stnake.
14 While pedal pressure is maintained,
unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
turn) and allow the compressed fluid and
air to flow into fhe jar The assistant should
maintain pedal pressure and should not
release it until instructed to do so. When the
flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again,
have the assistant release the pedal slowly,
and recheck the reservoir fluid level.
15 Repeat the steps given tn paragraphs 13
and 14 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
cylinder has been drained and refilled allow
approximately five seconds between cycles
for the master cylinder passages to refill.
Using a o n e - w a y valve Itit
to the bleed screw located in the hose end
fitting situateo on the top of the transmission
housing (see illustration 2.8). Connect
the other end of the hose to a suitable
pressure bleeding device set to operate at
approximately 2.0 bar
25 Attach the cap (fvlKM-6174-2} to the
master cylinder resen/oir, and place the hose
in a collecting vessel.
26 Switch on the pressure bleeding
equipment, open the bleed screw, and allow
fresh hydraulic fluid to How from the pressure
bleeding unit, through the system and out
through the top of the reservoir and into
the collecting vessel. When fluid, free from
air bubbles appears in the reservoir, close
the bleed screw and switch off the bleeding
equipment.
16 As their name Implies, these kits consist of
a length of tubing with a one-way valve fitted,
to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn
back into the system; some kits include a
translucent container, which can be positioned
so that the air bubbles can be more easily
seen flowing from the end of the tube.
17 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened.
18 The user returns to the driver's seat,
depresses the clutch pedal with a smooth,
steady stroke, and slowly releases it; this is
repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air
bubbles,
19 Note that these kits simplify work so
much that it is easy to forget the clutch lluid
reservoir level; ensure that this is maintained
at least above the lower level line at all timesPressure-bleeding m e t h o d
29 When bleeding is complete, no more
bubbles appear and correct pedal feel is
restored, tighten the bleed screw securely
(do not overtighten). Remove the tube and
spanner, and wash off any spilt fluid. Refit the
dust cap tc the bleed screw.
30 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if
necessary (see Weekly checks).
31 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has been
bled from the system; it will not be fit for
20 These kits are usually operated by the
reservoir of pressurised air contained in the
spare tyre. However, note that it will probably
be necessary to reduce the pressure to a lower
level than normal; refer to the instructions
supplied with the kit.
21 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
container to the clutch fluid reservoir, bleeding
can be carried out simply by opening the
bleed screw and allowing the fluid to flow out
until no more air bubbles can be seen in the
expelled fluid,
22 This method has the advantage that the
large reservoir of fluid provides an additional
safeguard against air being drawn Into the
system during bleeding.
'Back-bleeding' method
23 The following procedure describes
the bleeding method using Vauxhall/Opei
equipment. Alternative equipment is available
and should be used in accordance with the
makw's instructions.
24 Connect the pressure hose(MKM-6174-1)
27 Disconnect the bleeding equipment from
the bleed screw and reservoir.
28 Carry out a final conventional bleeding
procedure as described in paragraphs 10 to 15,
or 16 to 19.
All m e t h o d s
32 Check the operation of the clutch pedal.
If the clutch is still not operating correctly,
air must still be present In the system, and
further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed
satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of
the bleeding procedure may be due to worn
master cylinder/release cylinder seals.
3
Master c y l i n d e r removal and refitting
Note 1: New master cylinder retaining nuts
will be required for refitting.
Note Z: This procedure does not apply to
models fitted with the Easytronic transmission.
6*3
3.5 Extract the retaining clip (arrowed)
and disconnect the hydraulic pipe from the
master cylinder connector
4 Remove all traces of dirt from the outside
of the master cylinder and the brake/clutch
hydraulic fluid reservoir, then position some
cloth beneath the cylinder to catch any spilt
fluid,
5 Extract fhe retaining clip and disconnect
the hydraulic pipe from the connector on ttie
end of the master cylinder (see Illustration).
Plug the pipe end and master cylinder port to
minimise fluid loss and prevent the entry of
dirt.
6 Release the retaining clip (where fitted)
and disconnect the fluid supply hose from
the brake/clutch hydraulic fluid n
7 From inside the car remove the lower facia
panel on the driver's side as described in
Chapter 11.
8 Where fitted, remove the clutch switch from
the pedal mounting bracket.
9 Separate the clutch pedal from the master
cylinder piston rod by releasing the retaining
clip at the pedal. Vauxhall technicians use a
special tool to do this, however, the clip may
be released by pressing the retaining tabs
together using screwdrivers, while at the
same time pulling the clutch pedal reanwards.
Note; Do not remove the clip from the master
cylinder piston rod, just release it from the
pedal.
10 On diesel engine models, move the
bulkhead Insulation to one side for access
to the master cylinder retaining nuts. Use
a plastic wedge or similar tool to retain the
insulation clear ot the nuts.
Removal
R i g h t - h a n d drive m o d e l s
1 Where fitted, remove the plastic cover over
the top of the engine.
2 Release the clutch hydraulic pipe from the
support clip(s) on the bulkhead,
3 Unscrew the brake/clutch hydraulic fluid
reservoir tiller cap, and top-up the reservoir
to the f^AX mark (see WeeWy checks). Place
a piece of polythene over the filler neck,
and secure the polythene with the filler cap.
This will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations.
3.6 Release the retaining clip (arrowed)
and disconnect the fluid supply hose from
dangers of asbestos dust at the beginning of
Section 6.
Note 3: On models equipped with the
Easytronic transmission, Vauxhall/Opei TECH2
diagnostic equipment will be required to bleed
the clutch hydraulic system and carry out a
clutch Contact Point Determination program.
If this equipment is not available, the following
procedure should be entrusted to a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer.
Removai
4.2 C l u b * relaase cylinder hydraulic pipe
union nut (an-owed)
11 Unscrew tlie two nuts securing the master
cylinder to the tiulkhead, then return to the
engine compartment and remove the master
cylinder trom the vehicle. If the master cylinder
Is faulty it must be renewed; overhaul of the
unit is not possible.
Left-hand drive models
12 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
13 Pull up the locking bar and disconnect
the ABS wiring harness multiplug connector
from the electronic contrai unit located on the
tiydraullc modulator
14 Undo the two bolts securing the ABS
hydraulic modulator mounting bracket to
the bulkhead. Taking great care not to strain
the hydraulic brake pipes, carefully lift the
modulator and mounting bracket upward to
disengage the mounting bracket lower guide.
Move the assembly to one side as far as the
brake pipes will allow and support it in this
position.
15 Release the clutch hydraulic pipe from
the two support clips beneath the battery box
location.
16 Continue with the removal procedure as
3 to 11.
Refitting
Right-hand drive models
17 Manoeuvre the master cylinder into
position whilst ensuring that the piston rod
and its retaining clip align correctly with the
pedai. Fit two new master cylinder retaining
nuts and tighten them to the specified tonque.
4.5 Extract the retaining d i p (anowed) and
remove the hydraulic hose end fitting from
the fastening sleeve
4.3 Clutch release cylinder retaining botts
(arrowed)
18 On diesel engine models, locate the
bulkhead insulation tack into position.
19 Push the master cylinder piston rod
retaining clip into the clutch pedal, ensunng
that the two lugs on the clip fully engage.
20 Where applicable, refit the clutch switch
to the pedal mounting bracket.
21 Refit the lower facia panel on the driver's
side as described in Chapter 11.
22 Connect the fluid supply hose to the
brake/Clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir and,
where applicable, secure with the retaining
clip,
23 Press the hydraulic pipe back into the
connector on the end of the master cylinder
and refit the retaining clip. Ensure that the
retaining clip engages fully and the pipe is
securely retained. Secure the pipe with the
support clip(s),
24 Bleed the clutch hydraulic system as
described in Section 2, then refit the engine
cover (where applicable).
Left-hand drive models
25 Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 17 to 24.
26 Carefully locate the ABS hydraulic
modulator and mounting bracket back into
position and secure with the two bolts,
tightened to the specified torque.
27 Connect the ABS wiring harness multiplug
connector to the electronic control unit and
secure with the locking bar
28 Retit the battery box and battery described
in Chapter 5A,
4
Release c y l i n d e r -
^
removai sod refitting
^
Note 1: Due to the amount of work necessary
to remove and refit clutch components, it is
usually considered good practice to renew the
clutch friction disc, pressure plate assembly
and release cylinder as a matched set, even
Il only one of these is actually worn enough to
require renewal. It is also worth considering
the renewal of the clutch components on
a preventative basis if the engine and/or
transmission have been removed for some
other reason.
Note 2: Refer to the warning concerning the
1 Unless the complete engine/transmission
unit is to be removed from the car and
separated for major overhaul (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 2), the clutch release cylinder
can be reached by removing the transmission
only, as described in Chapter 7A or 7C.
2 Wipecleantheoutsideofthereleasecylinder
then slacken the union nut and disconnect ttie
hydraulic pipe (see illustration). Wipe up any
spilt fluid with a clean cloth,
3 Unscrew the three retaining bolts and slide
the release cylinder off fram the transmission
input shaft (see Illustration). Remove the
sealing nng which is fitted between the
cylinder and transmission housing and discard
it; a new one must be used on refitting. Whilst
the cylinder is removed, take care not to ailow
any debris to enter the transmission unit,
4 The release cylinder is a sealed unit and
cannot be overhauled. If the cylinder seals are
leaking or the release bearing is noisy or rough
in operation, then the complete unit must be
renewed.
5 To remove the hydraulic pipe, extract the
retaining clip and remove the hydraulic hose
end ftting from the fastening sleeve on top of
the transmission housing (see Illustration).
Gently squeeze the legs of the retaining
clip together and re-insert the clip back into
position in the end fitting.
6 Using a small screwdriver, carefully spread
the retaining lugs of the fastening sleeve to
release the hydraulic pipe connection, and
remove the pipe from inside the transmission
housing. Check the condition of the sealing
ring on the hydraulic pipe and renew if
necessary,
7 If required, the fastening sleeve can be
removed by squeezing the lower retaining
lugs together with pointed-nose pliers, then
withdrawing the Sleeve upwards and out ot the
transmission. Note that if the fastening sleeve
is removed, a new one must be obtained for
refitting.
Refitting
8 Ensure the release cylinder and transmission
mating surfaces are clean and dry and fit tfw
new sealing ring to the transmission recess.
9 Lubricate the release cylinder seal with a
smear of transmission oil then carefully ease
the cylinder along the input shaft and Info
position. Note: Vauxhall/Opel technicians use
a special tapered sleeve on the input shaft
to prevent damage to the seal. If necessary,
wrap suitable tape around the end of the
shaft Ensure ttie sealing ring Is still conectly
seated in its groove tiien refit the release
cylinder retaining bolts and tighten them to
the specified torque.
10 If removed, fit the new fastening sleeve,
engaging ttie lug on ttie sleeve with ttie cut-out
in the housing (see Illustration). Ensure that
the sleeve can be felt to positively lock In
position.
11 Insert ttie hydraulic pipe into the fastening
sleeve until the end fitting can be felt to
positively lock in position.
12 Reconnect the hydraulic pipe to the
release cylinder, tightening its union nut
securely.
13 Refit the hydraulic hose end fitting to ttie
fastening sleeve ensuring that it is positively
retained by its clip.
14 Refit the ttansmission unit as described in
Chapter 7A or 7C.
15 Bleed the clutch hydraulic system as
described in Section 2.
16 On models equipped with a conventional
transmission, bleed the clutch hydraulic
system as described in Section 2.
17 On models equipped with the Easyttonic
transmission, bleed the clutch hydraulic
system and carry out a clutch Contact Point
Determination program using Vauxhall/Opel
TECH2 diagnostic equipment.
5
Clutch p e d a l -
^
removal and refitting
Note 1: The dutch pedal mounting bracket,
ttie clutch peda! and the brake pedal are one
assembly and must be renewed as a complete
unit. In ttie event of a frontal collision, the
clutch pedal is released from its bearing In
the mounting bracket to prevent injury to the
drivers feet and legs (this also applies to the
brake pedal). If an ajrbag has been deployed,
inspect the pedal and mounting bracket
assembly and if necessary renew the complete
unit.
Note 2: New pedal mounting bracket retaining
nuts, vacuum sen/o unit stud bolts and brake
master cylinder retaining nuts will be required
for refitting.
RBtnoval
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the steering column as described
in Chapter 10.
3 Remove the complete facia assembly
and the facia crossmember as described in
Chapter 11.
4 Remove the stop-light switch from the pedal
mounting bracket as described in Chapter 9.
5 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner assembly, the
accelerator pedal/position sensor and, where
fitted, the clutch switch from the pedal
mounting bracket.
4.10 Make sure the lug (anwYBd) on the
fastening sleeve is located correctly in the
transmission housing
6 Working in ihe engine compartment,
unscrew the two nuts securing the brake
master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit.
Now unscrew the two stud bolts securing
the vacuum servo unit to the bulkhead (see
illustration).
7 Separate ttie clutch pedal from ihe clutch
master cylinder piston nxl by releasing the
retaining clip at the pedal. Vauxhall/Opel
technicians use a special tool to do this,
however, the clip may be released by pressing
the retaining tabs together using screwdrivers,
while at the same time pulling the clutch pedal
rearwards. Note; Do not remove the clip from
ihe master cylinder piston nxl, just release it
from the pedal.
B Unhook the return spring from behind
the brake pedal to release all tension In the
spring.
9 Carefully prise open and remove the
retaining clip, and withdraw the clevis pin
securing the brake pedal to the vacuum servo
unit pushrod.
10 From inside the car, slacken and remove
the three nuts securing the pedal mounting
bracket to the bulkhead. Note that two of
fhe three nuts also secure the clutch master
cylinder. On diesel engine models, move the
bulkhead insulation to one side for access to
the nuts, and use a plastic wedge or similar
tool to retain the insulation clear.
11 Wittidraw the mounting bracket and pedal
assembly from the bulkhead, while at the
same time guiding the clutch master cylinder
piston rod and retaining clip out of the clutch
pedal.
5.6 Vacuum servo unit retaining stud boKs
Refitting
12 Manoeuvre the mounting bracket and
pedal assembly into position, whilst ensuring
Hiat ttie clutch master cylinder piston nxl and
its retaining clip align conectly with the clutch
pedal. Also ensure that the vacuum servo unit
pushrod locates around the brake pedal. Fit
three new pedal mounting bracket retaining
nuts and lighten them to ths specified torque,
13 On diesel engine models, locate the
bulkhead insulation back into position.
14 Push the clutch master cylinder piston rod
retaining clip into the clutch pedal, ensuring
that the two lugs on the clip fully engage.
15 Apply a smear ot multipurpose grease to
the clevis pin then align the vacuum servo
unit pushrod with the brake pedal hole and
insert the pin. Secure the pin in position with
the retaining clip, making sure it is correctly
located in the groove.
16 Hook the return spnng into position behind
the brake pedal.
17 Working in the engine compartment, fit the
two nevj stud bolts securing the vacuum servo
unit to the bulkhead and tighten the bolts to
the specified torque. Fit the two new braira
master cylinder retaining nuts and tighten tfie
nuts to the specified torque.
18 Refer to Chapter 1A or 'IB as applicable
and refit the air c\i
id the
accelerator pedal/|
Afbere
fitted, refit the clut
pedal
mounting bracket.
19 Refit the stop-light switch to the pedal
mounting bracket as described in Chapter 9.
20 Refit the facia
—facia
assembly as described in Chapter 11.
21 Refit the steering column as described in
Chapter 10.
22 Reconnect the battery negative terminal
on completion.
6
C i u t c h assembly removal, inspection
and refitting
^
^
A
Warning: Dust created by clutch
wear and deposited
on the
• clutch components may contain
asbestos, which is a health hazard. DO NOT
blow it out with compressed air, or inhale
any of it. DO NOT use petrol or petroleumbased solvents to clean off the dust. Brake
system cleaner or methylated spirit should
be used to flush the dust into a suitable
receptacle. After the clutch
components
are wiped clean with rags, dispose of the
contaminated rags and cleaner in a sealed,
marked container.
Note 1; To prevent possible damage to the
ends of the pressure plate diaphragm spring
fingers, Vauxhall/Opei recommend the use of
a special jig 0g transmission side' or
Qetnebeseite' on the motion oisc must
point towards the transmission
plate boits, but tighten them only finger-tight
SO that the friction disc can still be moved
(see illustration).
28 The friction disc must now be centralised
so that, when the transmission is refitted, Its
input shaft will pass through the splines at the
centre of the friction disc,
29 Centralisation can be achieved by passing a
screwdriver or other tong bar thraugh the ftclran
disc and into the hole in the crankshaft. The
friction disc can then be moved around until it
is centred on the crankshaft hole. Alternatively, a
clutch-aligning tool can be used to eliminate the
guesswork; these can be obtained from most
accessory shops (see Olustration).
30 When the friction disc Is centralised,
tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly and in
a diagonal sequence to the specified torque
setting.
31 Refit the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A or 7C.
7A«1
Chapter? Part A:
Manual transnnission
Contents
Section number
Gearchange mechanism - adjustment
Gearchange mechanism - removal and refitting
General infonnallon
Oil seals - renewal
3
4
1
5
Section number
Reversing light switch - testing, removal and refitting
Transmission - removal and refitting
Transmission oil - level checlt, draining and refilling
Transmission overhaul - general Information
6
7
2
8
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
^
^
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fairly diflfciA,
|
suitable for competent ;J
DIY mechanic
4
DIfficutt, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
«
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
D(Y or professional
Specifications
General
Type;
1.8 litre petrol engine models
2,2 litre pebxil engine models
Diesel engine models
Manufacturer's designation:"
1.8 litre petrol engine models
2.2 litre petrol engine models
1.9 litre diesel engine models
• WR = Wide Ratio (wide i^tio gear set)
SR = Standard Ratio (standard ratio gear set)
CR dose Ratio (close ratio gear set)
Final drive ratios
Fl 7+transmissions
F23 transmissions
F40 transmissions
M32 transmissions:
Petrol engine models
Diesel engine models
;
Five forwarol speeds and reverse. Synchromesh on ali fora/ard speeds
Five or six fonwanJ speeds and reverse. Synchromesh on all foro/ard
speeds
Six forwart speeds and reverse. Synchromesh on all forward speeds
Fl 7+ WR or OR
F23 SR or M32 WR
F40 WR or M32 WR
3.94:1
3.95:1
3.55:1
3.65:1
3.35:1
Lubrication
Lubricant type
Lubricant capacity
Gear ratios
F17+WR transmissions:
1st
2nd
3rd
F17+ OR tranMnissions:
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
Reverse
F23 SR transmissions:
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
Reveree
F40 WR transmissions:
1st
2nd
3rcl
41h
5th
eth
Reverse
M32 WR transmissions:
1st
2nd
3rd
4th.
Torque wrench settings
Differential lower cover plate bolts (F17+ transmissions)
Engine/transmission mountings
Engine-to-transmission bolts
Gearchange lever assembly mounting bolts
Oil drain plug:
F23 transmissions
F40 transmissions
M32 transmissions
Oil filler plug:
F23 transmissions
F40 transmissions
M32 transmissions
Oil level plug:
F17+ h'ansmisslons:
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
F23 transmissions
Oil seal canierto differential (M32 transmissions):
Stage 1
Stage 2
Reversing light switch
Roadwheel bolts
See Lubricants and fluids
See Chaptef 1A or 1B
3,73:1
1.96:1
1.32:1
0.95:1
0.76:1
3.31:1
3.73:1
2.14:1
1.14:1
1.12:1
0.89:1
3.31:1
3.58:1
2.02:1
1.35:1
0.98:1
0.81:1
3.31:1
3.92:1
2.04:1
1.32:1
0.95:1
0.76:1
0.62:1
3.75:1
Petrol engine
3.82:1
2.16:1
1.47:1
1.07:1
0.88:1
0.74:1
3.54:1
Nm
18
See the relevant Part of Chapter
See the relevant Part of Chapter
10
35
50
20
35
50
30
4
Angle-tighten a further 45°
Angle-tighten a further 135°
35
20
Angle-tighten a further 45"
20
110
Diesel engine
3.82:1
2.05:1
1.30:1
0.96:1
0.74:1
0.61:1
3.54:1
Ibfft
General i n f o n n a t i o n
The ti
M IS contained in a castaluminium allov c ising bolted to the engines
left-hand end. and consists of the gearbox
and final drive differential - often called a
transaxle.
Drive IS transmtttea trom tne crankshaft
via the clutch to the input shaft, which has a
spllned extension to accept the clutch friction
disc, and rotates in sealed ball-bearings. From
the input shaft, drive is transmitted to the
output shaft, which rotates in a n>ller bearing
at its right-hand end, and a sealed ball-bearing
at its left-hand end. From the output shaft,
the drive is transmitted to the differential
chDwnwheel, which rotates with the differential
case and planetary gears, thus driving the
sun gears and driveshafts. The rotation of the
planetary gears on their shaft allows the inner
roadwheel to rotate at a slower speed than the
outer roadwheel when the car is comf^ing.
The input and output shafts are arranged
side-by-side, parallel to the crankshaft and
driveshafts, so that their gear pinion teeth are
in constant mesh. In the neutral position, the
output shaft gear pinlcHis nDtate freely, so that
drive cannot be transmitted to the oownwheel.
Gear selection is via a floor-mounted
lever and cable-operated selector linkage
mechanism. The selector linkage causes
the appropriate selector fork to move its
respective synchro-sleeve along the shaft,
to lock the gear pinion to the synchro-hub.
Since the synchro-hubs are spllned to the
output shaft, this locks the pinion to the shaft,
so that drive can be transmitted. To ensure
that gearchanging can be made quickly and
quietly, a synchromesh system is fitted to all
foro/anJ gears, consisting of baulk rings and
spring-loaded fingers, as well as the gear
pinions and synchro-hubs. The synchromesh
cones are formed on the mating faces of the
baulk rings and gear pinions.
2
:- •
T r a n s m i s s i o n oil level check, draining
and refilling
^
^
,
1 The oil level must be checked before the
oar is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the
engine has been switched oft. If the oii is
checked immediately after driving the car,
some of the oil will remain distributed around
the transmission components, resulting in an
inaccurate level reading,
2 Draining the oil is much more efficient if
the car is first taken on a journey of sufficient
length to warm the engine/transmission up to
normal operating temperature.
Caution: If tlte procedure is to be carried
out on a hot transmission unit, take care
not to bum yourself on ttie hot exhaust or
Oie ti^nsmis^n/engine
unit.
3 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,
on vehicle ramps, or jack it up and support
tt securely on axle stands Isee Jacking and
vehicle support), but make sure that it is level.
To drain the oil on diesel engine models, undo
the retaining bolts and screws and remove the
undertray from beneath fhe engine.
F t 7+
transmissiofTS
Level c h e c k
4 W/ipe clean the area around the level plug.
The level plug is located behind the driveshaft
Inner joint on the left-hand side of the
transmission (see illusb^tion). Unscrew the
plug and clean it.
5 The oil level should reach the lower edge of
the level plug aperture.
6 The transmission is t o p p e d - u p via
the reversing light switch aperture (see
illustration). Wipe clean the area around
the reversing light switch, and remove the
switch as described in Section 6. Refill the
transmission with the specified grade of oil
given in Lubricants and fluids until It reaches
the bottom of the level plug aperture. Allow
any excess oil to drain, then refit and tighten
the level plug to the specified tonque.
7 Refit the reversing light switch with reference
to Sectton 6.
Draining
Note: A new differential lower cover plate
gasket will be required for this operation.
8 Since the transmission oil is not renewed
as part of the manufacturer's maintenance
schedule, no drain plug is fitted to the
2.10 Undo the bolts (amawed) and rwnove
plate-F17h
2.6 Using a funnel to hll the transmission
vta the reversing light switch aperture Ft 7+ transmissions
transmission, if for any reason the transmission
needs to be drained, the only way of doing so
is to remove the differential lower cover plate.
9 Wipe clean the area around fhe differential
cover plate and position a suitable container
underneatti the cover,
10 Evenly and progressively slacken and
remove the retaining twits then withdraw the
cover plate and allow the transmission oil to
drain into the container (see illustration).
Remove the gasket and disoarol it; a new one
should be used on refitting.
11 Allow the oil to drain completely into the
container. If the oil is hot, take precautions
against scalding. Remove all traces of dirt and
oil from the cover and transmission mating
and wipe clean the inside of the
12 Once fhe oil has finished draining, ensure
the mating surfaces are clean and dry then
refit the cover plate to the transmission unit,
complete with a new gasket. Refit the retaining
bolts and evenly and progressively tighten
ttiem to the specified torque.
Refilling
13 Refer to paragraphs 4 to 7.
F23
transmissions
Level c l i e c k
14 Wipe clean the area around the level plug
located on the rear of the differential housing
(see illush^tion). Unscrew the plug and clean
15 The oil level should reach the lower eúqe
oil level plug (arrowed)
- F 2 3 transmissions
housing (F40 transmissions), or on the lower
left-hand side of the differential housing
(M32 transmissions), and position a suitable
container under the plug (sea illustration).
24 Undo the drain plug and allow the oil to
drain,
25 Once the oil has finished draining, fit the
new drain plug and tighten the plug to the
specified tonque.
Refilling
26 The transmission is refilled via the oil filler
plug on the top of the casing (see illustration).
To gain access to the plug, remove the battery
and battery box as described in Chapter 5A.
27 Wipe clean the area around the plug and
unscrew it. Refill the transmission with exact/)'
2,2 litres of the specified grade of oil given in
Lubncants and fluids, then refit and tighten
the oil flier plug to the specified torque (see
Illustration),
28 Refit the engine undertray, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
29 Refit the battery bos and battery as
descnbed in Chapter 5A,
3
necessary, wipe clean the area around the tiller
plug on the top of the casing and unscrew Ihe
plug (see illustration).
16 Add the specified grade of oil given in
Lubricants and fluids through the filler plug
aperture, until it reaches the bottom of the
level plug aperture. Allow any excess oil to
drain, then refit and tighten the level plug to
the specitied tonque.
17 Refit the oil fillet plug and tighten it to the
specified torque, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Draining
18 Wipe clean the area anaund the drain plug,
located below the left-hand dnveshaft. and
position a suitable container under the plug.
1fl Undo the dram plug and allow the oil to
drain.
20 Once the oil has finished draining, refit
the drain plug with a new sealing washer
3.1 Unclip and ramove the gearchange
lever gaiter retaining frame from the centre
console
2.27 Use a graduated container to fill the
transmission with the specified quantity of
oil - F40 and M32 transmissions
where applicable, and tighten the plug to Ihe
specified tonque.
Refilling
21 Refer to paragraphs 14 to 17,
F40 and M32
transmissions
Note: A new transmission oit drain plug will be
required.
Level c h e c k
22 On the F40 and M32 transmissions, there
is no provision for oil level checking once the
transmission has been Initially filled. If for any
reason it is thought that the oil level may be
low. the transmission oil must be completely
drained, then refilled with an exact specified
quantity of oil as described below.
Draining
23 Wipe clean the area around the dram
plug, located at the base of the differential
3.2 Remove the ashtray by d
internal tabs each side and lifting out
Geandiange mechanisin adiustment
^
F17+,F40and
M32
transmissions
Note: A 5 mm drill bit or dowel rod will be
required to carry out ttiis procedum.
1 Fnsm inside the car, unclip the gearchange
lever gaiter retaining frame from the centre
console and lift it off the gearchange lever
(see Illustration).
2 Remove the ashtray from the centre console
by opening the lid. depressing the intemal tabs
each side and lifting out (see illustration).
3 Release the retaining lugs around the
sides and rear of the gearchange lever gaiter.
Disengage the locating pegs at the front and
fold the gaifer up over the gearchange lever
knob (see Illustrations).
4 Usmg a small screwdriver, open the
clamping piece on the end of each selector
cable as far as the notch. Opening them any
further may damage the clamping pieces (see
Illustrations).
lugs around
of the gearchange lever
gaiter...
3.3b . . . then disengage the pegs
(arrowed) and fold the gaiter up the lever
3.4a Using a small screwdriver, open Ihe
clamping piece on the end of each selector
cable...
3.5 Pull up the reverse gear detent ring on the gearchange lever
to expose the two tabs (arrowed) on the locking block
5 Pull up the reverse gear detent ring on the
gearchange lever to expose the two tabs on
the locking block. Depress the two tabs until
the locking block releases and moves down
the le
6 Move the gearchange lever to the left and
engage the lug at the base of the locking block
with the slot on the side 6f the gearchange
lever base (see Illustration). The lever is now
locked in the adjustment position.
7 In the engme compartment, set the
gearchange selector on the transmission to
the 'neutral' position. Press the selector down
(F17+ transmissions} or pull it up (F40 and
M32 transmissions) and lock it in the adjustment position by inserting a 5 mm drill bit or
dowel rod through the hole in the side of the
housing (see illustration). Ensure that the drill
tHt or dowel rod fully engages with the selector.
8 Working back inside the car, lock both
gearshift cable clamping pieces by pushing
them down.
8 Remove the drill bit or dowel rod used
to lock the gearchange selector on the
transmission.
10 Lift the locking block on the gearchange
lever out of the slot on the lever base, and
slide it fully up the lever until it looks back in
its original position.
3.6 Engage the lug (arrowed) at the base of the locking block wWi
the slot on the side of the gearchange lever base
11 Refit the gearchange lever gaiter and
retaining frame to the centre console, then
refit the ashtray Check the gear selector
mechanism for correct operation.
F23
transmissions
12 Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 1 to 4 above.
13 in the engine compartmOTt, set the gearchange selector on the transmission to the
'neutral' position.
1
.
14 Working back inside the car, position the
gearchange lever in the 'neutral' position, and
lock it there by pushing in the clamp (see
illustration)
15 Lock both gearshift cable clamping pieces
by pushing them down.
16 Pull out the clamp locking the gean^ange
lever, then refit the lever gaiter and retaining
frame to the centre console. Refit the ashtray
and check the gear selector mechanism for
correct operation.
*
3.7 Using a 5 mm drill bit [arrowed) lo lock
the selector mechanism in the adjustment
position - F40 transmission shown
3.14 Lock the gearchange lever in 'neutral'
by pushing in the clamp with a screwdriver
- F23 transmissions
%1
4.7a Gearchange lever assembry front
s (arrowed)...
4
Geardiange mechanism removal and refitting
Gearchange
^
lever
Removal
1 Remove the centre console as described in
Chapter 11.
2 Extract the retaining clip and remove the
roar passenger air duct (see illustrations).
3 Undo the retaining bolt each side and
release the diagnostic socie which bears only on the harcl outer edge
of the seal.
16 Fit a new O-rlng to the oil seal carrier,
then refit the can-ier to the differential housing,
tightening the retaining bolts to the specified
torque.
17 Refit the driveshaft as described in
Chapter 8,
18 Refill the transmission with the specified
type and amount of oil, as described in
Section 2.
Input
shaft
oil
seal
19 The input shaft oil seal is an integral part of
the clutch release cylinder; If the seal is leaking
the complete release cylinder assembly must
be renewed. Before condemning the release
cylinder, check that the leak Is not coming
from the sealing ring which is fitted between
the cylinda- and the transmission housing; the
sealing ring can be renewed once the release
cylinder assembly has been removed. Refer to
Chapter 6 for removal and refitting details.
test circuit to check that there is continuity
between the switch terminals only when
reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case,
and there are no obvious breaks or other
damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and
must be renewed.
Removal
4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unscrew the switch and remove it from the
transmission casing along with its sealing
washer (see Illustration).
Refitting
5 Fit a new sealing washer to the switch,
then screw it back into position in the top
of the transmission housing and tighten it to
the specified torque. Reconnect the wiring
connector, then test the operation of the
circuit.
F23
transmissions
6 The reversing light circuit is controlled
by a plunger-type switch screwed into the
rear of the transmission above the left-hand
driveshaft,
7 To gain access to the switch, finnly apply
the handbrake, then jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
Testing
8 Proceed as descrlt>ed in paragraphs 2 and
3 above.
Removal
6
Reversing fight s w i t c h testing, removal and refitting
9 Disconnect the winng connector, then
F t 7+ transm/ss/ons
1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by
a plunger-type switch screwed into the top
of the transmission towards the tront of the
housing.
Testing
2 If a fault develops in the circuit, first ensure
that the cin;uit fuse has not blown and that the
reversing light bulbs are sound.
3 To test the switch, disconnect tne wiring
connector. Use a multimeter (set to the
resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb
6.4 Unscrew and remove the reversing
light switch together with its sealing
washer - Fl 7+ transmissions
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Allow sufficient working raom to remove the
transmission from under the left-hand side ot
the engine compartment. Remove both frant
roadwheels then, on diesel engine models,
undo the retaining bolts and screws bolts
and remove the undertray fram beneath the
engine. Also remove the engine top cover
where fitted,
6.9 The reversing light switch (arrowed) is
positioned above the left-hand driveshaft F23 transmissions
n the switch and remove it from the
transmission casing along with its sealing
Refitting
10 Fit a new sealing washer to the switch,
then screw it back into position in the rear
of the transmission housing and tighten it to
the specified torque. Reconnect the wiring
connector, ttien test the operatkxi of the circuit.
11 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
F40
transmissions
12 The reversing light circuit is contnalled by a
plunger-type switch screwed into the selector
lever housing on top of the transmission.
Testing
13 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2
and 3 above.
Removal
14 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unscrew the switch and remove it Irom the
selector lever housing along with its sealing
washer (see illustration).
6.14 The reversing light switch (arrowed)
is screwed into the transmission selector
lever housing - F40 transmissions
a plunger-type switch screwed into the frant
of the transmission casing.
17 To gain access to the switch, firmly apply
the handbrake, then jack up the frant of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Undo the
retaining bolts and screws and remove the
undertray fram beneath the engine.
Testing
18 Praceed as described in paragraphs 2
and 3 above.
Removal
19 Disconnect the winng connector, then
unscrew the switch and remove it from the
transmission casing along with its sealing
washer
Refitting
20 Fit a new sealing washer to the switch, then
screw it back into position in the transmission
casing and tighten it to the specified torque.
Reconnect the wiring connector, then test the
operation of the circuit,
21 On completion, refit the engine undertray
and lower the vehicle to the ground.
Refitting
15 Fit a new sealing washer to the switch,
then screw it back into position in the selector
lever housing and tighten it lo the specified
tonque. Reconnect the wiring connector, then
test the operation of the circuit.
M32
transmissions
16 The reversing light circuit is controlled by
7.7a Itelng a small screwdriver, prise out
the retaining d i p . . .
removal and refitting
Removai
1 Apply the handbrake, then )ack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
7.7b . . . and disconnect the clutch
hydraulic hose from the end fitting on the
2 Remove the battery, battery box, and the
starter motor as descritied in Chapter 5A.
3 Remove the air cleaner housing and intake
ducts as descnbed in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4.
4 Remove the front bumper as descritjed in
Chapter 11,
5 Drain the transmission oil as described In
Section 2,
6 Remove tho filler cap fram the brake/clutch
fluid reservoir on the bulkhead, then tighten It
onto a piece of polythene. This will reduce the
loss of fluid when the clutch hydraulic hose is
disconnected. Alternatively, fit a hose clamp
to the flexible hose next to the clutch hydraulic
connection on the transmission housing.
7 Place some cloth rags beneath the hose,
then prise out the retaining clip securing the
clutch hydraulic hose to the end frtting on top
of the transmission bellhousing. Detach the
hose from Ihe end fitting (see illustrations).
Gently squeeze the two legs of the retaining
clip together and re-insert the retaining clip
back into position in the end fitting. Discard
the sealing ring from the hose end; a new
sealing ring must be used on refitting. Plug/
cover both the end tiding and hose end to
minimise fluid loss and prevent fhe entry of
dirt into the hydraulic system. Note: IVMst
the hose is disconnected, do not depress the
clutch pedal.
8 Note the fitted locations of the gearchange
selector cables at their transmission
attachments. Using a suitable forked tool,
release the inner cable end fittings from the
transmission selector levers. Pull back the
retaining sleeves and release the outer cables
from tbe mounting bracket on the transmission
(see illustrations 4.18 and 4.19). Undo the
retaining bolts and remove the cable mounting
bracket(s) fram the transmission,
9 Disconnect the wiring connector fram the
reversing light switch and free the wiring from
the transmission unit and retaining brackets,
10 On diesel engine models with the M32 transmission, remove the EGR valve heat exchanger
as descnbed in Chapter 4C,
11 Working as described in Chapter 8,
disconnect the inner ends of both driveshafts
from the differential and intermediate shaft
then remove the intermediate shaft. There is
no need to disconnect the driveshafts from
the swivel hub. Support the driveshafts by
suspending them with wire or string - do
not allow the driveshafts to hang down
under their own weight, or the ioints may be
damaged,
12 Unscrew and remove the upper bolts
securing the transmission to the rear of tbe
engine. Where necessary, pull up the coolant
hoses and secure them away from the
transmission using plastic cable ties.
13 Remove the front subframe assembly
as described in Chapter 10, ensuring that
the engine unit Is securely supported by
connecting a hoist to the engine assembly.
If available, the type of support bar which
locates in the engine compartment side
channels is to be preferred.
14 Unbolt and remove the front and rear
engine/transmission mounting torque link
brackets with reference to the relevant Part of
Chapter 2.
15 Place ajack with a block of wood beneath
the transmission, and raise the jack to take
the weight of the transmission.
16 Unbolt and remove the left-hand engine/
transmission mounting bracket from the
transmission with reference to the relevant
Part of Chapter 2.
17 Lower the engine and transmission by
approximately 5 cm making sure that the
coolant hoses and wiring harnesses are not
sh-etched.
18 Slacken and remove the remaining boits
securing the transmission to the engine and
sump flange. Note the correct fitted positions
of each bolt and the relevant brackets as they
are removed to use as a reference on refitting.
Make a final check that all components have
been disconnected, and are positioned clear
of the transmission so that they will not hinder
the removal procedure.
19 With the bolts removed, move the tnalley
jack and transmission, to free it from its
locating dowels. Once the transmission Is
free, lower the jack and manoeuvre the unit
out from under the car. Remove the locating
dowels from the transmission or engine if they
are loose, and keep them in a safe place.
Refitting
20 The transmission is refitted by a reversal
of the removal prcicedure, tearing in mind the
following points.
a) Ensure the locating dowels are correctly
positioned prior to installation.
b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque (where given).
c) Renew the driveshaft oil seals (see
Section 5) before refitting the driveshafts/
intermediate shaft.
d) Refit the front subframe assembly as
described in Chapter 10.
e) Fit a new sealing ring to the clutch hydraulic
hose before clipping the hose into die end
mting. Ensure the hose is securely retained
by its dip then bleed the hydraulic system
as described in Chapter 6.
f) On rvl32 transmissions, rem the EGR valve
heat exdiangeras described in Chapter 4C.
g) Refill the transmission with the specified
type and quantity of oil, as described in
Section 2.
h) On completion, adjust the gearchange
mechanism as described in Section 3.
8
Trafismission o v e r h a u l general tnfonnatton
^
il transmission unit
is a difficult and involved job for the DIY
home mechanic. In addition to dismantling
and reassembling many small parts,
clearances must be precisely measured
and, if necessary, changed by selecting
shims and spacers. Internal transmission
components are also often difficult to obtan,
and in many instances, extremely expensive.
Because of this, if the transmission develops
a fault or becomes noisy, the best course of
action Is to have the unit overhauled by a
specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange
reconditioned unit,
2 Nevertheless, it Is not impossible for the
more experienced mechanic to overhaul the
transmission, provided the special tools are
available, and the job is done in a deliberate
Etep-by-slep manner, so that nothing is
overlooked.
3 The tcols necessary for an overhaul include
internal and external circlip pliers, bearing
pullers, a slide hammer, a set of pin punches,
a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic
press. In addition, a large, stunjy workbench
and a vice will be required.
4 During dismantling of the ti
make careful notes of how each component
is fitted, to make reassembly easier and more
accurate.
5 Before dismantling the transmission, it
will help if you have some idea what area
is malfunctioning. Certain problems can
be closely related to specific areas in the
transmission, which can make component
examination and renewal easier. Refer to the
Fault ending Section of this manual for more
infonnation.
Chapter? Part B:
Automatic transmission
Contents
Section number
Section n u m b e r
12 Selector cable - adjustment
3
2 Selector cable - removal and refitting
4
13 Selector lever
- removal and refitting
5
1 Selector lever assembly components - removal and refitting
6
Selector lever position switch - removal and refitting
9
Transmission input/output speed sensors - removal and refitting... 10
Automatic transmission - removal and refitting
Automatic transmission fluid - draining and refilling
Automatic transmission overtiaul - generalinformation
Electronic control unit - removal and refitting
Fluid cooler - general Information
General information
Oil seals - renewal
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
^
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fairty dfflicult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
^
^
Dffficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
^
^
Specifications
General
Type:
Petrol engine models
Diesel engine models
Manufacturer's designation:
Petrol engine models
Diesel engine models
Lubrication
Electronically
reverse, with sequential manual gear selection capability
Electronically-controlled adaptive automatic, six forward speeds and
reverse, with sequential manual gear selection capability
AF23
AF40
Lubricant type
Lubricant capacity
S%e Lubricants and fluids
See Chapter 1A or I B
Torque wrench settings
Nm
ibfft
20
40
30
15
30
22
50
40
8
25
See the relevant Part of Chapter 2
See the relevant Part of Chapter 2
7
6
6
110
8
37
30
6
18
15
7
25
11
5
IB
60
44
Automatic transmission fluid drain/filler plugs:
AF23 transmissions:
Filler plug
AF40 transmissions:
Drain plug
Rllerplug
Level checking plug
Electronic control unit mounting bolts (AF40 transmissions). Engine/transmission mountings
Engine-to-transmission bolts
Fluid cooler pipes to transmission
Input shaft speed sensor bolt
Output shaft speed sensor bolt
Roadwheel bolts
Selector lever assembly mounting bolts
Selector lever position switch:
Lever-to-selector shaft
Selector shaft main nut
Switch retaining bolts
Torque converter-to-driveplate bolts;*
5
4
4
81
6
Generai i n f o r m a t i o n
A Wvi) nr six-speed, eiectronicallycontrolied automatic transmission was
optionally availatile on certain models covered
by this manual. The transmission consists
of a toniue converter, an epicycllc geartrain.
and hydraulically-operated clutches and
brakes. The unit Is controlled by the electronic
control unit (ECU) via electrically-operated
solenoid valves. In addition to the fullyautomatic operation, fhe transmission can
also be operated manually with five-Speed or
six-speed sequential gear selection.
The torque converter provides a fluid
coupling between engine and transmission,
which acts as an automatic clutch, and also
provides a degree of torque multiplication
when accelerating. The torque converter
Incorporates a lock-up function whereby
the engine and transmission can be directly
coupled by means of a clutch unit inside the
torque converter. The lock-up function Is
controlled by the ECU according to operating
conditions.
four-position selector lever The drive D
position, allows automatic changing
throughout the range of fonffard gear ratios.
An automatic kickdown facility shifts the
transmission down a gear If the accelerator
pedal is fully depressed. If the selector lever is
moved to the left from the D position, the
transmission enters manual mode. In manual
mode the gear selector lever can be used to
shift the transmission up or down each gear
sequentially
The epicyclic geartrain provides five or six
forwand and one reverse gear ratio, according
to which of Its component parts are held
stationary or allowed to tum. The components
of the geartrain are held or released by
hydraulically actuated brakes and clutches.
A fluid pump wittiin the transmission provides
the necessary hydraulic pressure to operate
the brakes and clutches.
Due to the complexify of the automatic
transmission, any repair or overhaul work
must be left to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer or
transmission specialist with the necessary
special equipment for fault diagnosis and
repair. The contents of the following Sections
are therefore confined to supplying general
iniormatlon, and any service information and
instructions that can be used by the owner.
In automatic mode, the transmission is
fully-adaptive, whereby the shift points are
dependent on driver Input, roadspeed, engine
speed and vehicle operating conditions.
The ECU receives inputs from various
engine and drivetrain related sensors, and
determines the appropriate shift point for
each gear. Additionally, the transmission can
be placed into winter mode using the button
on the selector lever indicator panel. The
transmission will select fourth gear as the
vehicle pulls away from a standing start; this
helps to maintain traction on very slippery
surfaces.
Driver contnal of the transmission is by a
2
AF23
Automatic transmission fluid
- draining and refilling
^-
trans
Draining
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then Jack up
the front of the car and support it securely
on axle stands (see Jacking and vetiicle
support).
2 Position a container under the drain plug at
the rear right-hand side of the transmission,
below the driveshaft. Unscrew the plug and
remove it along with its sealing washer (see
illustration).
3 Allow the fluid to drain completely into the
container.
4 When the fluid has finished draining, clean
the drain plug threads and those of the
transmission casing, fit a new sealing washer
and refit the drain plug, tightening it to the
specified tonque. Refit the engine undertray
(where appiicaoie) and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Refilling
5 Where applicable, lift off the plastic cover
over the top of the engine.
6 Using a suitable forked tool, release the
selector cable end fitting from the selector
lever position switch on the top of the
transmission (see illustration).
7 Move the selector cable to one side and
wipe clean the area around the transmission
fluid filler plug, located just to the rear of the
selector lever position switch. Unscrew and
remove the filler plug along with its sealing
washer.
1 Dipstick retaining bolt
2 Dipstick
3 Transmission fluid filler plug
4 Selector cable end fitting
5 Setector/everpos/tionsw/tcfJ
6 HOT mark grooves on dipstick
8 Refill the transmission using approximately
3.0 litres of the specified type of fiuld, via
the filler plug aperture. Use a funnel with
a fine mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and
to ensure that no foreign matter enters the
transmission.
d Refit and securely tighten the filler plug, then
reconnect the selector cable to the selector
lever position switch.
10 Start the engine, and allow it to idle for
a few minutes whilst moving the seiector
lever through its various positions. Take the
car on a moderate run to fully distribute the
new fluid around the transmission, and to
bring the transmission up to normal operating
temperature (70° tc 80'C). On returning, pari<
the car on level ground and leave the engine
idling.
t l Slowly move the selector lever from
position P to position D and bacl< to position R
12 Unscrew the retaining bolt and withdraw
the transmission fluid dipstick, located at the
front left-hand side of the transmission. Where
necessary, unclip the transmission wiring
harness and move it to one side for improved
access to the dipstick,
13 Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth and
Insert it fully into the transmission. Withdraw
the dipslick and check the fluid level which
must bo between the grooves of the HOT
mark. Note that 0,3 litres of fluid is required
to raise the level from the COLD mark to the
HOT mark on the dipstick,
14 If topping-up is necessary, stop the
engine, and remove the fluid filler plug as
described previously. Add additional fluid,
as required, then refit the filler plug, using
a new sealing washer Tighten the filler plug
to the specified torque, then reconnect the
selector cable to the selector lever position
switch,
15 Refit the dipstick and secure with the
retaining bolt, tightened to the specified
torque. If distuibed, clip the transmission
winng harness back into position,
16 Where applicable, refit the plastic cover
over the top of the engine.
AF40 transmissions
Draining
17 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,
on vehicle ramps, or Jack it up and support
it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle suppon), but make sure that it is
level. Undo the retaining bolts and screws
and remove the undertray from beneath the
engine,
18 Position a container under the combined
drain plug/level checking plug at the base of
the transmission. Note that the drain plug and
level checking plug are incorporated -nto one
unit - the drain plug is the larger of the two
plugs, with the level checking plug screwed
into the centre ol it (see Illustration),
19 Unscrew the level checking plug and
remove it, along with its sealing washer, from
the centre of the drain plug. Now unscrew the
drain plug and remove it, along with its sealing
washer, from the transmission. Allow the fluid
to drain completely into the container
20 When the fluid has finished draining,
clean the drain plug threads and those of the
transmission casing, fit a new sealing washer
and refit the dram plug, tightening it to the
specified torque.
Refilling
21 Wipe clean the area around the transmission fluid filler plug, located on the top
of the transmission housing, adjacent to the
selector cable (see Illustration). Unscrew and
remove the filler plug along with its sealing
washer
22 Slowly refill the transmission with the
specified type of fluid, via the filler plug
aperture until fluid just starts to drip out of
the level checking plug aperture. Use a funnel
el checking plug (1) and drain plug (2) AF40 transmissions
with a fine mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and
to ensure that no foreign matter enters the
transmission.
23 Refit the level checking plug and tighten it
securely
24 Add a further 0,5 litre of fluid via the filler
plug aperture.
25 Start the engine and allow it to idle. With
the footbrake firmly applied, slowly move the
selector lever from position P to position D
and back lo position R stopping at each
position tor at least two seconds. Repeat this
procedure twice,
26 With the engine still idling, unscrew the
fluid level checking plug once nwre. Allow the
excess fluid to run from the level checking plug
aperture until it is only dripping out Refit the
level checking plug with a new sealing washer,
and tighten the plug to the specified tonque.
27 If no fluid runs from the level checking
plug aperture, switch the engine off and repeat
paragraphs 24 to 26,
28 Once the fluid level is con-ect, refit the filler
plug with a new sealing washer, and tighten
the plug to the specified tonque.
29 On completion, refit the engine undertray
and lower the vehicle to the ground,
3
Selector c a b l e -
^
adjustment
^
Note: If the batteiy
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
General
Driveshaft type
Lubrication {overhaul only - see text)
Lubricant type/specification
Torque w r e n c h settings
Anti-roll bar connecting link retaining nut*
Driveshaft retaining nut:"
Stagel
Stage 2
Stages
Intermediate shaft bearing housing to support bracket
Lower arm balljoint clamp bolt nut:"
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Roadwheels
Track rad end to swivel hub'
* Use new nuts/bolts.
Solid steel shafts with inner and outer constarrt velocity (CV) joints.
Right-hand driveshaft Incorporating intermediate shaft (except on
1.8 litre petrol engine models)
Use only special grease supplied in sachets with gaiter kits - joints ai
DlhenAiise pre-packed with grease and sealed
Nm
65
ibf ft
48
150
Slacken the nut by 45°
250
18
111
30
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
110
35
22
185
13
81
26
and a new track rod end retaining nut will be
needed for refitting. The driveshaft outer joint
splines may be a tight fit in the hub and it is
possible that a puller/extractor will be required
to draw the hub assembly off the driveshaft
during removal.
2.3 Where fitted, tap off the driveshaft
retainmg nut dust cap
A tool to hold the wheel hub stationary
whilst the driveshaft retaining nut is
slackened can be fabricated from two
lengths of steel strip (one long, one
short} and a nut and bolt; the nut and
boll forming the phiot of a forig
Rear brake pads renewal
Stop-iight switch - removal, refitting and adjustment
Vacuum pump (diesel engine models) - removal and
refitting
Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and
refitting
Vacuum sen/o unit check valve and hose - removal, testing and
refrtting
16
3
2
9
8
5
15
19
11
12
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
%
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
Fairty difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
%
«
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
«
^
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
Front brakes
Type
Disc diameter
Disc thickness:
New
Minimum
Maximum disc run-out
Brake pad thickness:
New (Including tacking plate}
Minimum thickness (including backing plate)
Brake caliper piston diameter
Rear Brakes
Type
Disc diameter
Disc thickness:
New
Minimum
Maximum disc mn-out
Brake pad thickness:
New (including backing plate)
Minimum thickness (including backing plate)
Brake caliper piston diameter
Ventilated disc, with single-piston sliding caliper
285.0 mm
25.0 mm
22,0 mm
0.12 mm
20,0 mm
9.0 mm
57.0 mm
Solid disc, with single-piston sliding caliper
278,0 mm
12,0 mm
10,0 mm
0.03 mm
17.0 mm
8.0 mm
38.0 mm
Handbrake
Type
ABS system type
standard ABS system
ABS writh traction conlnol
ABS with electranlc stability program
Cable-operated, acting on rear brake calipers, Seff-adjusting
EBC 430 EV
EBC 430 EV/TC
EBC 430 EV/ESP
l^k
^
Nm
20
10
6
30
Torque wrench settings
ABS hydraulic modulator mounting bracket boits
ABS hydraulic modulator to mounting bracket
Brake caliper bleed screws
Brake caliper guide bolts
Brake caliper mounting bracket bolts:'
Fnant caliper mounting bracket bolts
Rear caliper mounting bracket bolts
Brake fluid pipe unions
Brake hydraulic hose banjo union bolts
Brake pedal mounting bracket nuts'
Handbrake lever retaining nuts
Master cylinder retaining nuts*
Roadwheel bolts
Vacuum pump mounting bolts (diesel engines)
\Mcuum servo unit stud bolts'
!t
QèftèrarfiiiemiatiQ»
The braking system is of servo-assisted,
dual-circuit hydraulic type split diagonally. The
an-angement of the hydraulic system is such
that each circuit operates one frcmt and one
rear brake from a tandem master cylinder.
Under normal circumstances, both circuits
operate in unison. However, In the event of
hydraulic failure in one circuit, full braking
force will still be available at two wheels.
All models are fitted with front and rear
disc brakes. The disc brakes are actuated
by single-piston sliding type calipers, which
ensure that equal pressure is applied to each
disc pad.
An Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) is fitted
asstandarei equipment to all vehicles covered in
this manual. On higher specification models, the
ABS may also Incorporate traction control or an
electnDnlc stability program. Refer to SectkDn 17
for further infomiation on ABS operation.
The self-adjusting, cable-operated
handbrake provides an independent
mechanical means of rear brake application.
On diesel engine models, since there Is no
thnattllng as such of the inlet manifold, the
manifold is not a suitable source of vacuum
to operate the vacuum servo unit. The sen/o
unit is therefore connected to a separate
vacuum pump bolted to the left-hand end of
the cylindw head and driven by the camshaft.
Warning: When servicing
any
part of the system, worlr carefully
and methodically; also observe
scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling
any part of the hydraulic sysfem. Always
renew components (in axle sets, where
applicable) if in doubt about their condition,
and use only genuine Vauxhall/Opel parts,
or at least those of Itnown good quality.
Note the warnings given in 'Safety first!'
and at relevant points in this Chapter
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust
and hydraulic fluid.
A
230
130
16
40
20
10
50
110
20
20
5 Park the vehicle over an Inspection pit or on
car ramps. Alternatively, apply the handbrake
then jack up the front and rear of the vehicle
and support It on axle Stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support). For improved access with the
Warning:
Hydraulic
fluid
is vehicle jacked up, remove the roadwheels.
6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
poisonous; wash off immediately
unions tight and bleed screws closed, Clean
and thoroughly in the case of
any dirt from around the bleed screws.
sidn contact, and seeh immediate medical
7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap,
advice if any fluid is swallowed or gets into
the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are and top the master cylinder reservoir up to
inflammable, and may ignite when allowed
the MAX level line; refit the cap loosely, and
into contact with hot components; when
remember to maintain the fluid level at least
sen/icing any hydraulic system. It is safest
above the MIN level line throughout the
to assume that the fluid is inflammable, and
procedure, otherwise there is a risk of further
to take precautions against the risk of fire air entering the system.
as though it is petrol that is being handled. 8 Thereareanumberofone-man,do-it-yourself
Hydraulic fluid is also an effecthre paint
brake bleeding kits cun-ently available from
stripper, and will attack plastics; If any is SpiH,
motor accessoiy shops. It is recommended that
it should be washed off immediately, using
one of these kits is used whenever possible,
copious quantities of fresh water. Finally, it
as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation,
is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the
and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid
air) - old fluid may be contaminated and unfit
tor further use. When topping-up or renewing being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is
the fluid, always use the recommended type, not available, the basic (two-man] method must
be used, which is described in detail below.
and ensure that it comes from a freshlyCaution: Vauxhall recommend using a
opened sealed container.
pressure bleeding kit for this operation
(see paragraphs 24 to 27).
General
9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle
1 The correct operation of any hydraulic as described previously, and iollow the kit
system is only possible after removing all
manufacturer's instructions, as the procedure
air from the components and circuit; this Is may vary slightly according to the type being
achieved by bleeding ihe system.
used, generally, they are as outlined below in
2 During the bleeding procedure, add the relevant sub-section,
only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the 10 Whichever method is used, the same
recommended type; never re-use fluid that has sequence should be followed (paragraphs 11
already been bled from tiie system. Ensure that and 12) to ensure the removal of all air from
suffteient fluid is available before starting wor1<.
the system.
3 If there is any possibility of incorrect
sequence
fluid being already in the system, the brake Bleeding
components and circuit must be flushed 11 If the system has been only partially
completely with uncontamlnated, conect fluid, disconnected, and suitable precautions were
and new seals should be fitted to the various taken to minimise fluid loss, it should only be
components,
necessary to bleed that part of the system
4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the (ie, the primary or secondary cirouit). If the
system, or air has entered because of a master cylinder cr mam brake lines have been
leak, ensure that the fault is cured before disconnected, then the complete system must
proceeding further.
be bled.
2
Hydraulic s y s t e m -
A
12 The manufaclurer does not give any
sequence for bleeding the brake circuit,
however, we recommend the following for
right-hand drive models: for left-hand drive
models, bleed fhe opposite sides:
aj Left-hand rear brake,
bj Right-hand fnynt brake.
c) Right-hand rear brake.
d) Left-hand front brake.
Bleeding
Basic (two-man) method
13 Collect together a clean glass jar, a
suitable length of plastic or njbber tubing
which Is a tight m over the bleed screw, and
a ring spanner to fit the screw. Tbe help of an
assistant will also be required.
14 Remove the dust cap from the first bleed
screw in fhe sequence (see iltustrations). Fit
the spanner and tube to the screw, place the
other end of the tube in the jar, and pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube.
15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir
fluid level is mantained at least above the MIN
level line thnaughout the procedure.
16 Have the assistant fully depress the brake
pedal several times to build-up pressure, then
maintain it on the final downstroke.
17 While pedai pressure is maintained,
unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
turn) and allow the compressed fluid and
air to flow into the jar The assistant should
maintain pedal pressure, following it down to
the floor if necessary, and should not release
it until instructed to do so. When the tiow
stops, tighten the bleed screw again, have
the assistant release the pedal slowly, and
recheck the resen/oir fluid level.
18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16
and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
cylinder has been drained and refilled, and air is
being bled from the first screw in the sequence,
allow approximately five seconds between
cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill.
19 When no more air bubbles appear,
securely tighten the bleed screw, remove the
tube and spanner, and refit the dust cap. Do
not overtighten the bleed screw.
20 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
screws in the sequence, until all air is removed
from the system and the brake pedal feels firm
again.
2.14a Remove the dust caps from
2.14b . . . and rear bleed screws
23 Note that these kits simplify work so
much that it is easy to forget the master
cylinder resen/oir fluid level; ensure that this is
maintained at least above the MIN level line at
all times.
bled from the system; it will not be fit for
Using a pressure-bleeding kit
24 These kits are usually operated by a
reservoir of pressurised air contained in the
spare tyre. However, note that it wili probably
be necessary to reduce the pressure to a lower
level than normal; refer to the instructions
supplied with the kit.
25 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
container to the master cylinder reservoir,
bleeding can be carried out simply by
opening each screw in turn (in the specified
sequence], and allowing the fluid to flow out
until no more air bubbles can be seen in the
expelled fluid.
26 This method has the advantage that the
large resen/oir of fluid provides an additional
safeguard against air being drawn into the
system during bleeding.
27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective
when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when
bleeding the complete system at the time ot
routine fluid renewal.
All methods
28 When bleeding is complete, and firm
pedal feel is restored, wash off any spilt fluid,
securely tighten the bleed screws, and refit
the dust caps.
29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if
necessary (see Weekiy checks].
30 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has t>een
Using a one-way vaive Idt
21 As the name implies, these kits consist of
a length of tubing with a one-way valve fitted,
to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn
back into the system; some kits include a
translucent container, which can be positioned
so that the air bubbles can be more easily
seen flowing from the end of the tube.
22 The kit Is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened. The user returns to the
driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a
smooth, steady stroke, and slowly releases it;
this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear
of air bubbles.
3.2a Pull outtiie spring clip .
31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it
feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
the system, and further bleeding is required.
Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable
repetition of the bleeding procedure may be
due to worn master cylinder seals.
3
Hydraulic p i p e s a n d hoses -
Note: Before stading work, refer to the note
at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the
dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,
minimise fluid loss by first removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap and screwing it
down onto a piece of polythene. Alternatively,
flexible hoses can be sealed, if required, using
a proprietary brake hose clamp. Metal brake
pipe unions can be plugged (if care is taken
not to allow dirt into the system) or capped
immediately they are disconnected. Place
a wad of rag under any union that is to be
disconnected, to catch any spilt fluid.
2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,
unscrew the brake pipe union nut before
removing the spnng clip which secures the
hose to its mounting bracket. Where applicable,
unscrew the banjo union bolt securing the hose
to the caliper and recover the copper washers.
When removing the front flexible hose, pull oul
the spring clip and disconnect it from the strut
(see illustrafions).
3 To unscrew union nuts, it is preferable to
obtain a brake pipe spanner of the con-ect
size; these are available from most motor
accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting
open-ended spanner will be required, though
if the nuts are tight or corroded, ttieir flats may
be nounded-off if ttie spanner slips. In such a
case, a self-locking wrench Is often the only
way to unscrew a stubborn union, but it follows
that the pipe and the damaged nuts must be
renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union
and sumaunding area before disconnecting
it. If disconnecting a component with more
than one union, make a careful note of the
connections before disturbing any of them.
4 If a brake pipe Is to be renewed, it can be
obtained, cut to length and with the union nuts
and end flares in place, from Vauxhall/Opel
dealers. All that Is then necessary is to bend
it to shape, following the line of the original,
before fitting it to the car. Alternatively, most
motor accessory shops can make up brake
pipes from kits, but this requires very careful
measurement of the original, to ensure that
the new one is of the correct length. The
safest answer Is usually to take the original to
the shop as a pattem.
5 On refitting, do not overtighten the union
nuts,
6 When refitting hoses to the calipers, always
use new copper washers and tighten the
banjo union bolts to the specified torque.
Make sure that the hoses are positioned so
tiiat they will not touch sunounding bodywork
or the roadwheels.
7 Ensure that the pipes and hoses are
conectly routed, with no kinks, and that they
are secured in the clips or brackets pnavided.
After fitting, remove the polythene from the
resen/oir, and bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 2. Wash off any spilt
fluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.
4.3a Extract the retaining clip and release
the hydraulic hose from the suspension
strut
4.3b If worWng on the left-hand caliper, lift
up the bleed screw cap to release the wire
for the pad wear warning Indicator
4
Front b r a k e p a d s renewal
A
Warning: Renew BOTH sets of
front brake pads at the same time NEVER renew ffie pads on oniy one
wfieel, as uneven bralong may result Note
tfjat Ihe dust created by wear of ttie pads
may contain asbestos, wliicfi is a healOi
hazard. Never blow it out with compressed
air, and do not inhale any of it An approved
filtering mask should be worn when working
on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents lo clean brake parts - use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Push in the caliper piston by sliding the
caliper body towanjs the outside of the vehicle
by hand.
3 Follow the accompanying photos (Illustrations 4.3a to 4.3ab) for the actual pad
renewal procedure, bearing In mind the
additional points listed below. Be sure to
stay in order and read the caption under
each illustration. Note that if the old pads are
to be refitted, ensure that they are identified
so that they can be returned to their original
" Afterremovlngthecaliperfromthemounting
t^^acket, tie it to the suspension strut using
^ cable tie or suitable p.ece of wire. Do not
4.3d Depress the locking lab end release
the wiring connector from the suspension
strut
.. then hoM the upper part of the
lor and twist the lower part in the
direction of the arrow
4.3h Release the legs of the r(
spring from the caliper body . . .
4.3i . . . then remove the spring Irom the
caliper mounting bracket
4.31 . . . and lower guide bolts and n
them from the caliper
4.30 Remove the outer pad tr
mounting bracket
4.3r With the retaining clip in place on the
end of Hie wire, push the wire back into
position on the new pad
4.3j Remove the dust caps from the upper
and lower guide bolts
4.3m Lift the caliper and inner pad off the
mounting bracket
4.3n Remove the inner pad irom me caliper
piston, noting that it Is retained by a spring
clip attached to the pad backing plate
4.3p Measure the thickness of the pad
(notion matenal and backing plate. If any
are worn down to the specified minimum,
or fouled with oil or grease, all four pads
must be renewed
4.3q It may be necessary to transfer tho
pad wear warning Indicator wire to the
new pad, if so extract ttie retaining clip and
the wire from the old pad
4,3s Apply a little high melting-point copper
brake grease to the pad backing plate
contact areas on Uie mounting bracket
4.3t If new pads ai« to be fitted, before
refitting the caliper, push t>ack the caliper
piston whilst opening the bleed screw. This is
to prevent any dirt/d^rrs being forced back
up the hydraulic circuit in the ABS modulator
4.3u Fit the outer pad to the caliper
mounting bracket, enKirIng that its friction
material to facing the brake disc
4.3v Where applicable, feed the pad wear
warning Indicator wire through the hole in
the c a l i p e r . . .
4.3w . . . then fit the inner pad t o the
caliper, ensuring that its clip is correctly
located In the caliper piston
ng legs ir
the holes in the c a l i p e r . . .
smallest particles can cause the system to
fail through blockage. The pad retraction
method descnbed here prevents any debris
in the brake fluid expelled from the caliper
from being passed back to the ABS hydraulic
unit, as weff as preventing any chance of
4.3aa . . . then hold the lags in place and
locate the upper part of the spring behind
the lugs on the mounting bracket
allow fhe caliper to hang unsupported on the
flexible brake hose.
5 If the original brake pads are still sen/lceable,
carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire
brush or similar, paying particular attention to
the sides and back of the metal backing plate.
Clean out the grooves in the friction material,
and pick out any large embedded particles of
dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations
in the caliper body/mounting bracket.
6 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the
guide bolts are a snug fit in the caliper
mounting bracket. Brush the dust and dirt
from the caliper and piston, but do not Inhale
It, as it is injurious to health. Inspect the dust
seal around the piston for damage, and the
piston for evidence of fluid leaks, conoslon
. If attention to any of these
4 J a b Refit the hydraulic hose to the
suspension strut and secure wlti) the
retaining clip. Where applicable, reconnect
and secure the pad wear warning indicator
to complete
components \s necessary, refer to Section 7.
7 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the
caliper piston must be pushed back Into the
cylinder to allow for the extra pad thickness.
Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use
suitable pieces of wood as levers. Clamp off
the flexible brake hose leading to the caliper
then connect a brake bleeding kit to the
caliper bleed screw. Open the bleed screw as
the piston is retracted, the surplus brake fluid
will then be collected in the bleed kit vessel
(see Illustration 4.3t}. Close the bleed screw
just before the caliper piston is pushed fully
into the caliper This should ensure no air
enters the hydraulic system.
Caution: The ABS unit contains hydraulk:
components that are very sensitive to
impurities in fhe brake fluid. Even the
8 On later models, the brake pads may be
fitted with mechanical rather than electrical
brake pad wear warning indicators. The
mechanical warning indicators consist of a
metal strip riveted to the backing plate. When
the pad friction material reaches the minimum
thickness, the metal strip contacts the disc
causing a squeaking noise audible to the
driver. When fitting brake pads of this type,
the metal strip must point downwards, and
the anew on the pad backing plate must pdnt
in the direction of fonwani natation of the disc.
9 With the brake pads installed, depress the
brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (nonassisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the
pads are pressed Into firm contact with the
brake disc.
10 Repeat the above procedure on the
remaining front brake caliper.
11 Refitthe roadwheels, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified torque setting.
12 Check the hydraulic fluid level as
described in Weekly checks.
Caution: New pads will not give full braldng
efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be
prepared for this, and avoid hard braking
as tar as possible for the first hundred
miles or so after pad renewal.
5
Rear brake p a d s renewal
A
Warning: Renew BOTH sets of
rear brake pads at the same
time - NEVER renew the pads on
only one wheel, as uneven braking may
result. Note that the dust created by wear
of the pads may contain asbestos, which
is a health hazard. Never blow it out with
compressed air, and do not inhale any of it.
An approved filtering mask should be worn
when working on the brakes. DO NOT use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts - use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only.
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the rear roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos (illustrations 5.2a to 5.2o) for the actual pad
renewal procedure, bearing in mind the
additional points listed below. Be sure tc
stay in order and read the caption under
each illustration. Note that if the old pads are
to be refitted, ensure that they are identified
so that they can be returned to their original
positions.
LA
S.2a Release the legs of the retaining
apnng trom the caliper body and remove
the spring
5.2d Lift the caliper off tfie mounting
bracket and suspend it from a suitable
place under tlie wheel arch using a cable
tie or similar
3 If the original brake pads are still serviceable,
carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire
brush or similar, paying particular attention to
the sides and back of the metal backing plate.
Clean out the grooves in the friction material,
and pick out any large embedded particles of
dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations
in the caliper body/mounting bracket.
4 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the
guide bolts are a snug fit in the caliper
mounting bracket. Brush the dust and dirt
from the caliper and piston, but do not inhale
it, as It is injurious to health. Inspect the dust
seal around the piston for damage, and the
piston for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion
or damage. If attention to any of these
components is necessary, refer to Section 8.
5 if new brake pads are to be fitted, it will
be necessary to retract the piston fully into
the caliper bore by rotating it in a clockwise
direction. This can be achieved by using
sturdy circlip pliers, noting that as well as
being turned, the piston has to be pressed in
very firmly. Special tools are readily available
to achieve this with less effort. While the
caliper is being retracted, clamp off the
flexible brake hose leading to the caliper then
connect a brake bleeding kit to the caliper
bleed screw. Open the bleed screw as the
piston is retracted, the surplus brake fluid will
then be collected in the bleed kit vessel (see
illustrations S.2h and 5.21). Close the bleed
screw just before the caliper piston is pushed
fully into the caliper. This should ensure no air
enters the hydraulic system.
Caution: The ABS unit contains hydraulic
components that are very sensitive to
Impurities in the brake fluid. Even the
smallest particles can cause the system to
fail through blockage. The pad retraction
method described here prevents any deiirls
in the brake fíuid expelled from the caliper
from being passed back to the ABS hydrauOc
unit, as well as preventing any chance ot
damage to the master cylinder seals.
6 With the brake pads installed, depress the
brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (nonassisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the
pads are pressed into firm contact with the
brake disc.
7 Repeat the above procedure on the
remaining rear brake caliper.
8 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified torque setting.
9 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described
in Weekly checks.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking
efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be
prepared for this, and avoid hard braking
as far as possible for the first hundred
miles or so after pad renewal.
5.2b Remove the dust caps from the upper
and lower caliper guide bolts . . .
5.2c . . . then unscrew both gufde boHs
and remove them from tho caliper
5.2e Remove the outer p a d .
5,2f . . . and inner pad from the caliper
mounfing bracket
5.2g Measure the thickness of the pad
friction material and backing plate. If any
are worn down to the specified minimum,
or fouled with oil or grease, all four pads
must be renewed
5 J h Tixn ana press the caliper piston
firmly clockwise using suitable pliers . . .
retracting tool to retract the piston
Sjy Apply a little high melting-point copper
brake grease to the pad backing (date
contact areas on tt>e mounting bracket
5.2k Rt the biner pad to the caliper
5.2m Slide the caliper into position In the
mounting bracKet and refit the guide bolts
5.2n Tighten the guide bolts to the
speciTiea torque, then refit the dust caps
5.20 Locate the retaining spring legs Into
ttie holes in the caliper, then hold the legs
in place and locate the upper part of the
spring behind the lugs on the mounting
bracket
apply the handbrake, and if checking a rear
disc, chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake, then jack up the relevant end of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
Jacliing and vehicle support). Remove the
roadwheel.
2 Check that the brake disc securing screw is
tight, then fit a spacer approximately 10.0 mm
thick to one of the roadwheel bolts, and refit
and tighten the bolt in the hole opposite the
disc secuhng screw.
3 Rotate the brake disc, and examine it for
deep scoring or grooving. Light scoring is
normal, but if excessive, the disc should be
removed and either renewed or machined
(within the specified limits) by an engineering
works. The minimum thickness is given in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
4 Using a dial gauge, or a flat metal block
and feeler blades, check that the disc run-out
does not exceed the figure given in the
Specifications. Measure the mn-out 10.0 mm
in fram the outer edge of the disc.
5 if the disc run-out is excessive, remove the
disc as described later, and check that the
disc-to-hub surfaces are perfectly clean. Refrt
the disc and check the run-out again.
6 If the run-out is still excessive, the disc
should be renewed,
7 To remove a disc, proceed as follows.
6
Brake d i s c inspection, removal
and refitting
^
^
Note: Before starting wori<. refer to tlie
warning at ttie beginning of Section 4 or 5
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust. If
either disc requires renewal, both shouid be
renewed at the same time together with new
pads, to ensure even and consistent bralang.
Inspection
1 Remove the wheel trim, then loosen the
roadwheel bolts. If checking a front disc.
5.21 . . . followed by the outei
Removal
8 Remove the roadwheel bolt and spacer
used when checking the disc.
9 Remove the front brake pads as described
in Section 4.
10 Undo the two bolts securing the caliper
mounting bracket to the swivel hub and remove
the mounting bracket (see Illustrations).
11 Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the disc from the hub (see Illustrations).
Refitting
12 RefH the disc, making sure that the mating
faces of the disc and hub are perfectly clean,
and apply a little locking fluid to the threads of
the securing screw.
13 Refit the caliper mounting bracket and
tighten the tmlts to the specified torque.
14 Refit the brake pads as descnbed in
Section 4.
Rear
disc
Removal
16 Vi/here applicable, remove the roadvirtieel
l3oit and spacer used when checking the disc.
16 Remove the rear brake pads as described
in Section 5,
17 Undo the two bolts secunng the caliper
mounting bracket to the hub earner and remove
the mounting bracket (see Illustration).
18 Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the disc from the hub (see lllosfrations).
19 Refit the disc, making sure that the mating
faces of the disc and hub are perfectly clean,
and apply a little locking fluid to the threads of
the securing screw.
20 Refit the caliper mounting bracket and
tighten the traits to the specified torque.
21 Refit the brake pads as described in Section 5,
7
Front b r a k e caliper -
^
removal, overtiaul and refitting
Note: New brake hose copper wasfiers wHt be
required when refitting. Before starting work,
6.11a Remove the securing screw . . .
refer to the note at the beginning or Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydrauiic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 4
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust
Removal
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle supped). Remove
the roadwheel.
2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap and screwing it
down onto a piece of polythene. Alternatively,
use a brake hose olamp to clamp the flexible
hose leading to the brake caliper
3 Clean the area around the caliper brake
hose union. Unscrew and remove the union
bolt, and recover the copper sealing washer
from each side of the hose union. Discard
the washers; new ones must be used on
6.18a Remove the securing s
(arrowed)...
refitting. Plug the hose end and caliper hole,
to minimise fluid loss and prevent the ingress
of dust and dirt into the hydraulic system.
4 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 4, then remove the caliper from the
vehicle.
Overhaul
Note: Vauxhall/Opel special tool KM-6629-5
or a suitable alternative will be required to fit
tfie piston dust seal to the caliper body.
5 With the caliper on the bench, wipe it clean
with a cloth rag,
6 Withdraw the partially-ejected piston
from the caliper body, and remove the dust
seal. The piston can be withdrawn by hand,
or if necessary pushed out by applying
compressed air to the brake hose union hole.
Only low pressure should be required, such as
is generated by a foot pump.
7.7 Remowng the piston seal from the
caliper body
7 Using a small screwdriver, carefully
remove the piston seal from the groove in the
caliper, taking care not to mari< the tore (see
Illustration).
8 Carefully press the guide bushes out of the
caliper body.
9 Thoroughly clean all components, using
only methylated spirit or clean hydraulic fluid.
Never use mineral-based solvents such as
petrol or paraffin, which will attack the rubber
components of the hydraulic system. Dry the
components using compressed air or a clear,
lint-free cloth. If available, use compressed air
to blow clear the fluid passages.
A
Warning: Wear eye
protection
when using compressed air.
10 Check all components, and renew any
that are worn or damaged. If the piston and/or
cylinder bore are scratched excessively, renew
the complete caliper body, Similariy check the
condition of the guide bushes and bolts; both
bushes and bolts should be undamaged and
(w4ien cleaned) a reasonably tight sliding fit, if
there is any doubt about the condition of any
component, renew it.
11 If the caliper is fit for further use, obtain the
necessary components from your Vauxhall/
Opel dealer. Renew the caliper seals and dust
covers as a matter of course; these should
never be re-used.
12 Onreassembly,ensurethatalIcomponents
are absolutely clean and dry.
13 Dip the piston and the new piston seal In
dean hydraulic fluid, and smear clean fluid on
the cylinder bore surface.
8.3 Rear caliper brake hose union bott
(arrowed)
14 Locate the new seal in the cylinder bore
groove, using only the fingers to manipulate it
into position.
15 Fit the new dust seal to the piston, then
insert the piston into the cylinder bore using
a twisting motion to ensure it enters the seal
conectly.
16 Ensure that the piston dust seal sits
squarely and evenly on the caliper body
then place the Vauxhall/Opel special tool, or
suitable alternative, over the dust seal. Using a
piston retracting tool or G-olamp push the tool
outwanjs to seat the dust seal onto the edge
of the caliper body. With the seal correctly
located, remove the tool,
17 Insert the guide bushes into position in the
caliper body.
Refitting
18 Refit the brake pads as described in
Section 4, together with the caliper which at
this stage will not have the hose attached.
19 Position a new copper sealing washer on
each side of the hose union, and connect the
brake hose to the caliper. Ensure that the hose
is correctly positioned against the caliper body
lug, then install the union bolt and tighten it to
the specified torcjue setting.
20 Remove the brake hose clamp or
polythene, and bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 2. Note that, providing
the precautions described were taken to
minimise brake fluid loss, it should only be
necessary to bleed the relevant front brake
circuit.
21 Refit the roadwheel, then tower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified torque,
Only the guide bushes and dust seal can be
individually renewed.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
roadwheel.
2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap and screwing it
down onto a piece of polythene. Alternatively,
use a brake hose clamp to clamp the flexible
hose leading to the brake caliper.
3 Clean the area around the caliper brake
hose union. Unscrew and remove the union
bolt, and recover the copper sealing washer
from each side of the hose union (see
illusfration). Discard the washers; new ones
must be used on refitting. Plug the hose end
and caliper hole, to minimise fluid loss and
prevent the ingress of dust and dirt into the
hydraulic system,
4 Disengage the handbrake Inner cable from
the caliper lever then pull the outer cable
grommet out of the caliper bracket (see
illustrations).
5 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 5, then remove the caliper from the
vehicle.
Overtiaui
Note: Vauxhall/Opel special tool KM-6629-4
or a suitable alternative will be required to fit
the piston dust seal to the caliper body.
6 With the caliper on the bench, wipe It clean
with a cloth rag.
7 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise
out the dust seal Irom the caliper, taking care
not to damage the piston.
8 Rear brake caliper «^ 8 Carefully press the guide bushes out of the
caliper body.
removai, overiiaiii and refitting
9 Further dismantling of the caliper is not
possible as individual parts are not available
separately.
Note 1: Before starting work, refer to the note 10 Thoroughly clean all components, using
at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the only methylated spirit or clean hydraulic fluid.
dangers of hydraulic fluid, and to the warning Diy the components using a clean, lint-free
at the beginning of Section 5 concerning the cloth.
dangers of asbestos dust.
11 Check the condition of the exposed
Note 2: Due to the integral handbral,
}r cable
8.4b . . . then pull the outer cable grommet
out ot ttie caliper ta^oket
Similarly ciieck the condition of the guide
bushes and boits; both bushes and bolts
should be undamaged and (when cleaned) a
reasonably tight sliding fit. If there is any doubt
about the condition ol any component, renew
it.
12 If the caliper is fit for further use, obtain the
necessary components from your Vauxhail/
Opel dealer. Renew the caliper dust seal as a
matter of course; it should never be re-used.
13 Locate the new dust seal In the groove in
the piston. Ensure that the piston dust seal
sits squarely and evenly on the caliper body
then place the Vauxhall/Opel special tool, or
suitable alternative, over the dust seal. Using a
piston refracting tool or G-clamp push the tool
outwards to seat the dust seal onto the edge
of the caliper body. With the seal correctly
located, remove the tool.
14 Insert the guide bushes into position in the
caliper body.
Refitting
15 Refit the brake pads as described In
Section 5, together with the caliper which at
this stage will not have the hose attached.
16 Position a new copper sealing washer on
each side of the hose union, and connect the
brake hose to the caliper. Ensure that the hose
is conectly positioned against the caliper body
lug, then install the union bolt and tighten it to
the specified torque setting.
17 Engage the handbrake outer cable
grommet with the caliper bracket, then pull
back the operating lever and reconnect the
handbrake inner cable.
18 Remove the brake hose clamp or
polythene, and bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 2. Note that, providing
the precautions described were taken to
minimise brake fluid loss, it should only be
necessary to bleed the relevant front brake
circuit.
19 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified ton;|ue.
9 Master cylinderremoval, overhaul and refitting
^
Note 1: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at fhe beginning of Section 2
concerning tlie dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Note 2: New master cylinder retaining nuts
will be required for refitting.
Removai
1 Remove the master cylinder reservoir
cap, and siphon the hydraulic fluid from the
resen/oir. Note: Do not siphon the fluid by
mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or
an old hydrometer. Alternatively, open any
convenient bleed screw in the system, and
gently pump the brake pedal to expei the fluid
through a plastic tube connected to the screw
(see Section 2).
9.3 Disconnect the wiring connector
(arrowed) from the brake fluid level sensor
2 On left-hand drive models, lift up the cooling
system expansion tank and remove it from the
mounting bracket. Place the tank to one side.
3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
brake fluid level sensor at the base of the
reservoir (see illustration).
4 On models with manual transmission,
release the clip and disconnect the clutch
hydraulic pipe from the fluid reservoir (see
illustration), lape uvbr or piuy the oullet.
5 Place cloth rags beneath the fluid reservoir
then carefully pnse it from the top of the
master cylinder and withdraw from the engine
compartment. If necessary, prise the resen/oir
seals from the top of the cylinder
6 Place cloth rags beneath the master cylinder
to collect escaping brake fluid. Identify the
brake lines for position, then unscrew the
union nuts and move the lines to one side.
Tape over or plug the line outlets,
7 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw
fhe master cylinder from the vacuum servo
unit (see illustration). Recover the seal. Take
care not lo spill fluid on the vehicie paintwork.
Note that new retaining nuts will be required
for refitting,
Overtiaul
8 At thefimeofwhting, master cylinder overhaul
is not possible as no spares are available.
9 The only parts available individually are the
fluid reservoir, its mounting seals, the filler cap
and the master cylinder mounting seal.
10 If the master cylinder is worn excessively,
it must be renewed.
11 To remove the fluid reservoir, undo the
retaining bolf and pull the reservoir out of the
rubber seals in the master cylinder body Place
absorbent rags under the master cylinder as
you do this to catch the escaping hydraulic
fluid,
12 Remove the reservoir seals from the
master cylinder body and obtain new seals for
9.4 Release the clip (arrowed) and
disconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe from
ttie fluid reservoir
and dry then fit the new seal to the rear of the
master cylinder.
16 Fit the master cyiinder to the sen/o unit,
ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters
the master cylinder piston centrally. Fit the
new retaining nuts and tighten them to the
specified torque setting.
17 Refit the brake lines and tighten the union
nuts securely
18 On manual transmission models,
reconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe and
secure with the clip.
19 Reconnect the wiring connector to the
brake fluid level sensor
20 On left-hand drive models, refit the
cooling system expansion tank to its mounting
bracket.
21 Remove the reservoir filler cap and
polythene, then top-up the resen/oit with fresh
hydraulic fluid to the MAX mark (see Weekly
checks).
22 Bleed the hydrauiic systems as described
in Section 2 and Chapter 6 then reflt the filler
cap. Thoroughly check the operation of the
brakes and clutch before using the vehicle on
the road,
10 Brakepedalremoval and refitting
13 Lubricate the new seals with clean brake
hydraulic fluid and push the new seals into
position.
14 Refit the reservoir and secure with the
retaining bolL
Refitting
15 Ensure that the mating surfaces are clean
^
Note 1: The brake pedal mounting bracket,
the brake pedal and the clutch pedal are one
assembly and must be renewed as a complete
unit In the event of a frontal collision, fhe
o unit stud bolts (E
brake pedal is released from Its bearing In
the mounting bracket to prevent injury to the
driver's leet and legs (this also applies to the
clutch pedal). If an alrbag has been deployed,
inspect the pedal and mounting bracket
assembly and if necessary renew the complete
unit
Note 2; New pedal mounting bracket retaining
nuts, vacuum servo unit stud bolts and brake
master cylinder retaining nuts will be required
for refitting.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the steering column as described
in Chapter 10.
3 Remove the complete facia assembly
and the facia crossmember as described in
Chapter 11.
4 Remove the stop-light switch from the pedal
mounting bracket as described in Section 15.
5 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner assembly and
the accelerator pedal/position sensor Where
fitted, remove the clutch swrtch from the pedal
mounting bracket.
6 Working In the engine compartment,
unscrew the two nuts securing the brake
master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit.
Now unscrew the two stud bolts securing
the vacuum servo unit to the bulkhead (see
Illustration 9.7).
7 Separate the clutch pedal trom the clutch
master cylinder piston rod by releasing the
retaining clip at the pedal. Vauxhall/Opel
technicians use a special tool to do this,
however, the clip may t>e released by pressing
the retaining tabs together using screwdrivers,
while at the same time pulling the clutch pedal
reanwards. Note: Do not remove the clip from
the master cylinder piston rod, just release it
from the pedal.
6 Unhook the return spring from behind
the brake pedal to release all tension In the
9 Carefully prise open and
retaining dip, and withdraw the clevis pin
secunng the brake pedal to the vacuum sen/o
unit pushrod.
10 From inside the car, slacken and remove
the three nuts securing the pedal mounting
bracket to the bulkhead. Note that two of
the three nuts also secure the clutch master
cylinder On diesel engine models, move the
bulkhead insulation to one side lor access to
the nuts, and use a plastic wedge or similar
tool to retain the insulation clear.
11 Withdraw the mounting bracket and pedal
assembly from the bulkhead, while at the
same time guiding the clutch master cylinder
piston rod and retaining clip out of the clutch
pedal.
Refitting
12 Manoeuvre the mounting bracket and
pedal assembly into position, whilst ensuring
that the clutch master cylinder piston rod
and its retaining clip align correctly with the
clutch pedal. Also ensure that the vacuum
servo unit pushrod locates around the brake
pedal. Fit three new pedal mounting bracket
retaining nuts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
13 On diesel engine models, locate the
bullhead insulation back into position.
14 Push the clutch master cylinder piston rod
retaining clip Into the clutch pedal, ensuring
that the two lugs on the clip fully engage.
15 Apply a smear of multipurpose grease to
the clevis pin then align the vacuum servo
unit pushrod with the brake pedal hole and
insert the pin. Secure the pin in position with
the retaining clip, making sure it is con-ectly
located in the gnaove.
16 Hook the return spring into position tiehind
the brake pedal.
17 Working in the engine compartment, fit the
two new stud bolts securing the vacuum sen/o
unit to the bulkhead and tighten the bolts to
the specified torque. Fit the two new brake
master cylinder retaining nuts and tighten the
nuts to the specified torque.
18 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and refit the air cleaner assembly and the
accelerator pedal/position sensor Where
fitted, refit the clutch switch to the pedal
mounting bracket.
19 Retit the stop-light switch to the pedal
mounting bracket as described in Section 15.
20 Retit the facia crossmember and facia
assembly as described in Chapter 11.
21 Refit the steering column as described in
Chapter 10,
22 Reconnect the battery negative terminal
on completion.
11 V a c u u m servo u n i t testing, removai and refitting
35;
Testing
1 To test the operation of the servo unit, with
the engine off. depress the footbrake several
times to exhaust the vacuum. Now start the
engine, keeping the pedal firmly depressed.
As the engine starts, there should be a
noticeable give" in the brake
builds-up. Allow the engine tc njn
for at least two minutes, then switch it off.
The brake pedal should now feel nonnal, but
further applications should result in the pedal
feeling firmer, the pedal stroke decreasing with
each application.
2 If the sen/o does not operate as described,
first inspect the servo unit check valve as
described in Section 12,
3 If the servo unit still fails to operate
satisfactorily, the fault lies within the unit itself.
Repairs to the unit are not possible; if faulty,
the servo unit must be renewed.
Removal
R i g h t - h a n d drive m o d e l s
4 On diesel engine models, it will first be
necessary to remove the engine and transmission assembly as described in Chapter 20
or 2D to obtain the necessary clearance for
removal of the sen/o unit,
5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
6 Remove the master cylinder as described in
Section 9.
7 Remove the facia footwell trim panel on the
driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
8 Unhook the return spring from behind
the brake pedal to release all tension in the
spring.
9 Carefully prise open and remove the
retaining clip, and withdraw the clevis pin
securing the brake pedal to the vacuum servo
unit pushrod.
10 Pull out the vacuum hose from the
rubber grommet in the vacuum sen/o (see
illusfration),
11 Unscrew the two stud bolts securing
the vacuum servo unit to the bulkhead,
and remove the servo unit from the engine
compartment (see illustration 9.7). Note that
new bolts will be required for refitting.
Left-hand drive m o d e l s
12 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
13 Lift up the cooling system expansion tank
and remove it from the mounting bracket.
Place the tank to one side.
14 Remove the ABS hydraulic modulator
together with its mounting bracket as
described In Section 18.
15 Remove the master cylinder as described
in Section 9.
16 Remove the facia footwell trim panel on
the driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
17 Unhook the return spring from behind
the brake pedal to release all tension In the
spnng.
18 Carefully prise open and remove the
retaining clip, and withdraw the clevis pin
secunng the brake pedal to the vacuum servo
unit pushrod.
19 Pull out the vacuum hose from the njbt>er
grommet in the vacuum servo (sea Illustration 11.10).
20 Unscrew the two stud bolts securing
the vacuum servo unit to the bulkhead,
and remove the servo unit frt>m the engme
compartment (see Illustration 9.7). Note that
new tiolts wili be required for refitting.
Testing
5 Examine the check valve and hose for signs
of damage, and renew if necessary. Tbe valve
may be tested by blowing through it in both
directions. Air should flow through the valve
in one direction oniy - when blown through
from the servo unit end. If air flows in both
directions, or not at all, renew the valve and
hose as an assembly.
Refitting
R i g h t - h a n d drive m o d e l s
21 Locate the vacuum servo unit in position
on the bulkhead ensuring that the servo unit
pushrod locates correctly around the brake
pedal. Befit the two new retaining stud bol;s
and tighten them to the specified torque.
22 Refit the vacuum hose to the servo
grommet, ensuring that the hose is correctly
23 Apply a smear of multipurpose grease to
the clevis pin then align the servo unit pushrod
with the brake pedal hole and Insert the pin.
Secure the pin in position with the retaining
clip, making sure it is correctly located in the
groove.
24 Hook the return spring into position behind
the brake pedal, then refit the facia footwell
trim panel as described in Chapter 11,
25 Refit the brake master cylinder as
described in Section 9.
26 On diesel engine models, refit the engine
and transmission assembly as described in
Chapter 2C or 2D27 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal.
Left-hand drive m o d e l s
28 Locate the vacuum servo unit in position
on the bulkhead ensuring that the servo unit
pushrod locates correctly around the brake
pedal. Refit the two new retaining stud bolts
and tighten them to the specified torque.
29 Refit the vacuum hose to the servo
gnammet, ensuring that the hose is correctly
seated,
30 Apply a smear of multipurpose grease to
the clevis pin then align the sen/o unit pushrod
with fhe brake pedal hole and insert the pin.
Secure the pin in position with the retaining
clip, making sure it is correctly located in the
groove.
31 Hook the return spring into position behind
the brake pedal, then refit the facia footwell
trim panel as described in Chapter 11.
32 Refit the brake maste'- cylinder as
13.3 Push tfie piston rod and sprmg
with a suitable tool, then press down the
transport fixing to lock ttie mechanism
12,3 Disconnect the vacuum hose
quick-release fitting at the vacuum pump
on diesel engines
described in Section 9, but don't bleed the
hydraulic oin;uits at this stage,
33 Refit the ABS hydrauiic modulator and
mounting bracket as described in Section 18,
34 Refit the cooling system expansion tank
to the mounting bracket,
35 Refit the battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A,
36 Remove the master oyiinds
cap and polythene, then top-up the
with fresh hydraulic fluid fo the MAX mark (see
Weekly checks),
37 Bleed the hydraulic systems as described
in Section 2 and Chapter 6 then refit the filler
cap. Thoroughly check the operation of the
brakes and clutch before using the vehicle on
the road.
12 V a c u u m servo u n i t
c h e c k valve a n d h o s e removai, testing and refitting
A--^
^
Removal
1 Pull out the vacuum hose from the rubber
grommet in the vacuum servo unit (see
illustration 11.10).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
3 Disconnect the hose quick-release fitting
from the inlet manifold (petrol engines)
or vacuum pump (diesel engines) (see
illustratlon).
4 Unclip the vacuum hose from Its supports
13.5a Push a suitable socket
clevis pin . . .
6 Examine the servo unit rubber sealing
grommet for signs of damage or deterioration,
and renew as necessary.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal ensuring
that the quick-release connector audibly looks
in position, and that the hose is correctly
seated in the servo grommet.
8 On completion, start the engine and check
lhat there are no air leaks.
13 H a n d b r a k e f e v e r -
^
removai and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the rear centre console as
described in Chapter 11.
2 Ensure that the handbrake lever is released
(off).
3 bet the handbrake cable self-adjusting
mechanism to the fully released position
as follows. Push the pislon rod and spring
rearward with a suitable tool. Hold them in this
position and press down the transport fixing
to lock the mechanism in the released position
(see lllustration).
4 Remove the complete exhaust system and
centre heat shield as described in Chapter 4A
or 4B as applicable.
5 From under the car, use a suitable socket
to depress the lugs of the clevis pin retaining
collar (see Illustrations), Pull the clevis pin
upwards and out of the handbrake cable
equaliser to release the handbrake lever
connecting rod. Note that a new retaining
collar will be required for refitting.
13.5b . . . to depress the lugs (arrowed) of
the clevis pin retaining collar
14 Handbrake c a b l e rwnoval and refitting
13.6 Disconnect the winng connector
[arrowed) from the handbrake lever
warning light switch
13.7 Handbrake lever retaining nuts
(arrowed)
6 From inside the car disconnect the wiring
connector from the handbrake lever warning
light switch (see Illustration). Reiease the
plastic cable guide fnam the handbrake iever
mounting stud and move the cable to one
side.
7 Undo the four retaining nuts and remove the
handbrake lever assembly from inside the car
(see illustration). Recover the seal between
the handbrake lever and vehicle floor
9 Reconnect the handbrake lever warning
light switch wiring connector and clip the
plastic guide onto the mounting stud.
10 Fit a new retaining collar to the handbrake
lever connecting rod clevis pin. Align the
connecting rod with the hole in the equaliser
and fit the retaining collar from above. Ensure
that the clevis pin is pushed fully home so that
the lugs on the retaining collar lock the clevis
pin in position.
11 Refit the heat shield and the exhaust
system as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, as
applicable,
12 Pull the handbrake lever up to release the
transport fixing and automatically adjust the
handbrake cable.
13 Refit the centre console as described in
Chapter 11,
Refitting
8 Ensure that the seal is conectly seated on
the vehicle floor then locate the handbrake
lever assembly in position over the mounting
studs- Refit the four retaining nuts and tighten
to the specified torque.
Removai
1 The handbrake cable consists of two parts,
a short front connecting rod which connects
the lever to the equaliser plate, and the
main cable which links the equaliser plate
to the left-hand and right-hand rear brakes.
The connecting rod is an integral part ot the
handbrake lever assembly and cannot be
separated. The main cable is supplied as one
part, together with the equaliser plate.
2 Carry out the operations described in
Section 13, paragraphs 1 to 5.
3 Disengage the handbrake inner cable
from the rear brake caliper levers, then pull
the outer cable grommets out of the caliper
brackets (see illustrations 8.4a and 8.4b),
4 Undo the bolt secunng the handbrake cable
support bracket to the underbody on each
side (see Illustration),
5 Release the cable from the remaining
support brackets and clips on the underbody
and suspension arms, and remove the cable
fn^m under the car (see illustrations).
Refitting
6 Locate the cable in position in the
underbody support clips and brackets, and
tighten the support bracket bolt on each side
securely
7 Engage the handbrake outer cable grommet
with the
;ket ( each side, then
ting levers and
pull back thi
ir cable.
reconnect tne
8 Carry out the operationss described in
Section i::
15 Stop-iight switchremov:^, refitting
and adjustment
Removal
1 The stop-light switch is located on the
pedai bracket in the driver's footwell, behind
Ihe facia (see illustration).
14.4 Undo the bolt (anrowed) securing the
handbrake cable support bracket to the
underbody on each side
14.5b . , . from the cable guUes
(arrowed)...
14.5c . . . and support
16.1 Stop-light switch location (arnivrad)
on the brake pedal bracket
2 Remove the facia footwell trim panel on the
driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
3 Disconnect the wiring plug from the
stop-light switch.
4 Push the brake pedal down, pull out the
brake switch actuating pin, then unclip the
locking sleeve fream around the actuating pin
{see illustrations).
5 Release the securing clips and pull the
switch to disengage it from the pedal mounting
bracket.
Refitting
and
adjustment
6 With the actuating pin pulled out, and the
locking sleeve undipped, refit the switch to
the pedal bracket.
7 Secure the switch with the locking sleeve.
8 Release the brake pedal and the pedal
will automatically adjust the position of the
actuating pin,
9 Reconnect the wiring connector, then refit
the facia footwell trim panel as described in
Chapter 11.
16 Handbrake warning
light s w i t c h removal and refitting
%
^
Removal
1 Remove the rear centre console as described
in Chapter 11.
2 Disconnect the wiring connector from
the warning light switch on the side of the
handbrake lev
3 Undiptheti
n the side of the, indbrake
lever, then ur
bracket (see illustration).
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal,
15,4a Pull out the centre actuating pin
arrowed (switch removed for c l a r i t y ) , . .
at which the vehicle is travelling. It can then
use this speed to determine when a wheel is
decelerating at an abnormal rate, compared
to the speed of the vehicle, and therefore
predicts when a wheel is about to lock. During
normal operation, the system functions in the
same way as a conventional braking system.
If the ECU senses that a wheel is about to
lock, it operates the relevant solenoid valve(s)
In the hydraulic unit, which then isolates fram
the master cylinder the relevant brake(s) on the
wheel(s) which is/are about to lock, effectively
sealing-in the hydraulic pressure.
If the speed of rotation of the wheel
continues to decrease at an abnormal rate,
the ECU operates the electrically-driven pump
; the hydraulic fluid back into the
der, releasing the brake. Once
the speed of rotation of the wheel returns to
e rate, the pump stops, and the
solenoid valves switch again, allowing the
hydraulic master cylinder pressure to return to
the caliper, which then re-applies the brake.
1 nir. cvcio can be carried out many times a
second.
ABS is fitted as standard to all models. On
higher specification models, the ABS may also
incorporate traction control or an electronic
stability program as additional safety features.
The ABS system comprises a hydraulic
modulator and electronic control unit together
with four wheel speed sensors. The hydraulic
modulator contains the electronic control
unit (ECU), the hydraulic solenoid valves
(one set for each brake) and the electricallydriven pump. The purpose of the system is
to prevent the wheel(s) locking during heavy
braking. This is achieved by automatic release
of the brake on the relevant wheel, followed
by re-application of the brake.
I tie aciion of the solenoid valves and return
s pulses in the hydraulic circuit.
When the ABS system is functioning, these
pulses can be felt through the brake pedal.
On eariy models with traction control, the
ABS hydraulic modulator incorporates an
additional set of solenoid valves which operate
the traction control system. The system
operates at speeds up to approximately 30
mph using the signals supplied by the wheel
speed sensors. If the ECU senses that a driving
wheel IS about to lose traction, it prevents this
by momentanly applymg the relevant front
brake- The ABS ECU also communicates with
the engine management ECU during traction
control operation. In severe cases of traction
loss the engine management ECU will reduce
engine power to assist with traction recovery.
On later models with traction control, the
additional solenoids in the modulator are
not used, and the traction control function
is provided solely by a reduction in engine
power.
The solenoid valves are controlled by the
ECU, which itself receives signals from the four
wheel speed sensors which monitor the speed
of rotation of each wheel. By comparing these
signals, the ECU can determine the speed
The electronic stability program (ESP) is
a further development of ABS and traction
control. Usino additional sensors to monitor
steenng wheel position, vehicle yaw rate,
acceleration and deceleration, in conjunction
^17 Anti-lock Braking and
Traction C o n t r o l s y s t e m s generai information
15.4b , . . and unclip the locking sleeve
with the ABS sensors, the ECU can intervene
under conditions of vehicle instability. Using
the signals from the various sensors, the ECU
can determine driver intent (steering wheel
position, throttle position, vehicle speed and
engine speed). From the sensor inputs from
the wheel speed sensors, yaw rate sensors
and acceleration sensors the ECU can
calculate whether the vehicle is responding
to driver input, or whether an unstable driving
situation is occuning, if Instability is detected,
the ECU wiil inten/ene by applying or releasing
the relevant front or rear brake, in conjunction
with a power reduction, until vehicle stability
returns.
The operation of the ABS, fraction control
and stability programs is entirety dependent
on electrical signals. To prevent the system
responding to any inaccurate signals, a built-in
safety circuit monitors all signals received by
the ECU. If an inaccurate signal or low battery
voltage is detected, the system is automatically
shut down, and the relevant warning light on
the instrument panel is Illuminated, to inform
the driver that the system Is not operational.
Nonnal braking is still available, however.
If a fault develops in the ABS/traction
control/ESP system, the vehicle must be taken
to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer for fault diagnosis
and repair
18 Anti-lock Braking and Traction
Control system c o m p o n e n t s removal and refitting
>
^
Note 1 : Faults on ffie ABS system can only
16.3 Handbrake warning light switch
mounting bolt (arrowed)
ia3 Pull out the locking bar (arrowed) to
disconnect the wiring harness plug from
the ECU
be diagnosed using Vauxiiali/Opel diagnostic
equipment
or compatible
alternative
equipment
Note 2: Before starting work, refer to the note
at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the
dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Hydraulic
modulator
and
ECU
1 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap and screwing It
down onto a piece of polythene.
3 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the wiring harness plug from the ECU (see
lllustralion).
4 Note and record the fitted position of the
brake pipes at the modulator, then unscrew
the union nuts and release the pipes. As a
precaution, place absorbent rags beneath the
brake pipe unions when unscrewing them.
Suitably plug or cap the disconnected unions
to prevent dirt entry and fluid loss.
5 Unscrew the retaining bolls and remove
the hydraulic modulator from the mounting
bracket.
6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the foiiowing points:
a) Tighten ffie modulator retaining bolts to
the specified torque.
b) Refit the brake pipes to their respective
locations, and tighten the union nuts to
the specified torque.
c) Ensure that the wiring is correctly routed,
and that the ECU wiring harness plug is
firmly pressed into position and secured
with the locking bar.
d) Refit the battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A.
e) On completion, Weed the complete
hydraulto system as descnbed in Section 2.
Ensure that the system is bled in the conect
order, to prevent air entering the modulator
retum pump.
Electronic
control
unit
^CU)
7 Remove the hydraulic modulator from the
car as described previously in this Section.
8 Undo the two retaining bolts and carefully
withdraw the ECU upwards and off the
hydraulic modulator.
9 Prior to refitting, clean and then carefully
inspect, the condition of the gasket sealing
surfaces on the ECU and hydraulic modulator
If the surfaces are in any way deformed,
damaged, or rough to the extent that a
perfect gasket seal cannot be maintained, t i e
complete modulator and ECU assembly must
be renewed.
10 Holding the ECU by the outer edges,
carefully lower it over the solenoid valves on
the modulator, keeping it square and level.
19.3a Undo the t l
Ensure that the wiring connectors correctly
engage.
11 Fit the two retaining bolts and tighten
securely
12 On completion, refitthe hydraulic modulator
as described previously in this Section.
Wheel
speed
sensors
13 The front and rear wheel speed sensors
are an integral part of the hub bearings and
cannot be separated.
14 Referto Chapter lOforfront and rearhub
blearing removal and refitting procedures.
19 V a c u u m p u m p
(diesel e n g i n e models) removal and refitting
^
^
Removal
1 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
2 Disconnect the quick-release fitting and
detach the vacuum servo unit vacuum hose
fiom the pump (see illustration). Disconnect
the smaller vacuum hose from the outlet on
the side of the pump.
3 Undo the three mounting bolts and remove
the pump from the cylinder head/camshaft
housing (see illustrationa). Recover the
gasket.
Remting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but clean
the mating faces of the pump and cylinder
head/camshaft housing, and fit a new gasket
or O-ring as applicable. Tighten the mounting
bolts to the specified torciue.
19.3b . . . and remove the vacuum pump
from the cyllnd«- head/camshaft housing
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Section number
Electro-hydraulic power steering (EHPS| supply unit - removal and
refitting
23
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting
7
Front hub bearings - checking and renewal
3
Front lower arm - removal, overhaul and refrtting
5
FnDnt subframe - removal and refitting
6
Front suspension stnjt - removal, overhaul and refitting
4
Front swivel hub - removal and refitting
2
General infonnation
1
Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting
19
Power steering system-level check, filling and bleeding
21
Rear anti-roll bar-removal and refitting
17
Rear axle body - removal and refitting
16
Rear coil sprii^ - removal and refrtting
10
Secfion number
Rear hub bearings - checking and renewal
Rear hub carrier - removal and refitting
Rear shock absorber-removal, testing and refitting
Rear suspension auxiliary control arm - removal and refitting
Rear suspension lower control arm - removal and refitting
Rear suspension trailing arm - removal and
refitting
Rear suspension upper control arm - removal and refitting
Steering column - removal and
refitting
Steering gear assembly - removal. Inspection and refitting
Steering gear robber gaitera - renewal
Steering wheel - removal and refitting
Track rod - renewal
Track rod end - removal and
refitting
Wheel alignment and steering angles - general infonnation
8
9
15
13
12
14
11
20
22
24
18
26
25
27
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
expwience
1
Fairly easy, suitable ^
for beginner with
|S
some experience
^
Fairty (fifliciA,
suitable for competent
DIYmechEBiic
^
«
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mecfianic
^
3ç
Very difficult.
suitable for expert
DIY or pnafessional
Specifications
Front suspension
Type
Independent, with MacPherson struts and anti-roll bar
Rear suspension
Type
Independent multilink with coil springs, gas-filled shock absortiers and
anti-roll bar
Steering
Type
Rack and pinion with electro-hydraulic power steering (EHPS)
Front a n d rear h u b bearings
Bearing play (maximum)
Bearing radial
Bearing lateral mn-out
0.1 mm
0.04 mm
0.05 mm
ron-out
Torque wrench settings
Anti-roll bar link:'
To stmt
To anti-roll bar
Anti-roll bar to subframe*
Driveshaft retaining nut:*
Stagel
Stage 2
Stage 3
Hub bearing assembly to swivel hub:*
Stagel
Stage 2
Stage 3
Lower arm balljoint clamp bolt nut:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Lower anm fnjnt pivot bolt:"
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Lower arm rear mounting bush to lower arm:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Lower arm rear mounting bush to subframe:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Subframe:
Front engine mounting/torque link to subframe*
Rear engine mounting/torque link to subframe*
Front mounting bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Rear mounting reinforcement plates to underbody:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Hear mounting reinfon^ement plates to subframe;*
Stagel
Stage 2
Stage 3
Suspension strut piston rad nut*
Suspen^on strut to swivel hub:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Suspension strut upper mounting bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Rear suspension
Anti-roll bar clamp bolts:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Anti-roll bar link rod to hub canien'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Nm
65
65
20
150
Slacken the nut by 45"
250
100
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
30
Angle-tighten through a further 60°
Angle-tighten through a further 15°
90
Angle-tighten a further 75°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
40
Angle-tighten a further 40°
90
Angle-tighten a further 75°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
80
60
80
Angle-tighten a further 120°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
90
Angle-tighten a further 45°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
100
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
100
50
85
Angle-tighten a further 75°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
20
Angle-lighten a further 45°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
25
Angle-tighten a further 30°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
45
Angle-tighten a furtha- 60°
Angle-tighten a furthw 15°
Torque w r e n c h settings (continued)
Rear suspension (continued)
Auxiliary control arm to tiub carrier'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Auxiliary control arm to rear axie body:"
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Hutj bearing assembly to hub carrier:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Lower cCHitrol arm to hub carrier and rear axle body:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Rear axle body mounting bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Stage 5
Shock absorber lower mounting bolf
Shock absorber upper mounting bolt'
Trailing ami front mounting bracket bolts:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Stage 5
Trailing arm to hub carrier*
Upper control arm to hub carrier:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Upper control ann to rear axle body:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Nm
150
Angle-tigtiten a further 45°
Angle-tigtiten a further 15°
90
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
60
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15"
90
Angle-tlghten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
90
Slacken bolts
90
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
150
90
90
Slacken bolts
90
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
150
150
Angle-tighten a further 45°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
90
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
Steering
EHPS supply unit:
Fluid supply pipe union
Mounting bracket to subframe
Mounting bracket to underbody:
Upper bolts
Lower bolt (subframe mounting bolt):'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Supply unit to mounting bracket
Hydraulic fluid pipes to steering gear
Intermediate shaft to steering column'
Intennediate shaft to steering gear pinion"
Steering column mounting bolts'
Steering gear to subframe:"
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Steering wheel bolt
Track rod end to swivel hub'
Track rod inner ball|oint to steering rack
80
Angle-tighten a further 120°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
7
11
25
25
25
Roadwheels
All models
• Use new nuts/bolts.
110
30
20
22
45
Angle-tighten through a furttier 45°
Angle-tighten through a further 15°
30
35
90
2.3 On eariy models, remove the ABS
wheel speed sensor wiring plug (arrowed)
Irom the suspension strut and disconnect
the wiring connector
1
General information
The independent front suspension is of
the MacPherson strut type, incorporating
coil springs and integral telescopic shock
absorbers. The MacPherson struts are
located by transverse lower suspension amis,
which utilise rubber inner mounting bushes,
and incorporate a balljoint at the
The front swivel hubs, which carry the hub
bearings, brake calipers and disc assemblies,
are bolted to the MacPherson struts, and
connected to the lower amis via the ballioints.
A front anti-roll bar is fitted, which has link
rods with balljoints at each end to connect it
to the stRit,
Tbe rear suspension is of fully independent
multllink type, with a central axle body
(crossmember), gas-filled shock absorbers,
coil springs, trailing arms, upper and lower
transverse control arms, auxiliary transverse
control arms and an anti-roll bar. The shock
absorbers are attached at their upper ends
to the vehicle underbody and at their lower
ends to the hub caniers. The rear hub carriers
are attached to the trailing arms, upper and
lower control arms and auxiliary control arms
by means of flexible rubber bushes. The
anti-roll bar is mounted on the axle body and
is connected to the hub carriers by drop links.
The steering system is of the electrohydraulic power steering (EHPS) type.
This system utilises a conventional rackand-pinion type steering gear mounted on
the front subframe, with variable power
assistance generated by a hydraulic pump,
driven by an electric motor The degree of
power assistance available is governed by the
speed of the electric motor which is controlled
by the steering system electranic control unit.
The ECU receives input signals on steering
wheel position (from a steering angle sensor)
and roadspeed (from the ABS wheel speed
sensors) and calculates the amount of power
3 required.
Two versions of the EHPS system are used
on the Vectra: a standanj EHPS system and a
compact EHPS system. The standard EHPS
svstem has the hydraulic pump, electric
motor and hydraulic fluid reservoir assembly
remotely sited under the front wheel arch and
connected to the raok-and-pinion steering
2.4a Depress the locking tab and release
the wiring connector from the suspension
strut
2.4c . . . then hold the upper part of the
connector and twist the lower part In the
direction of the an«w
2.4d Disconnect the w
gear by hydraulic supply and return pipes.
On the compact EHPS system, the hydraulic
pump, electric motor and hydraulic fluid
reservoir are mounted above the rack-andpinion steering gear on the front subframe.
There is no definitive list of which models
have which type of steering. The only way to
tell is by the location of the fluid reservoir. If
it's visible in the engine compartment, then it's
compact EHPS. If it's not visible in the engine
compartment then it's under the wheel arch,
and it's standard EHPS.
The steering column is linked to the steering
gearbyan intermediate shaft. The intennediate
shaft has a universal Joint fitted to its upper
end, and is secured to the column by a clamp
bolt. The lower end of the intennediate shaft Is
attached to tho steering gear pinion by means
of a clamp bolt.
2
Front swivel h u b -
^-j.
removai and refitting
Note: A new driveshaft retaining nut, lower
arm ballioint clamp bolt and nut, anti-roll bar
connecting link retaining nut, brake caliper
mounting bracket bolts and a new track rod
end retaining nut will be needed for refitting.
The driveshaft outer joint splines may be a tight
fit in the hub and It Is possible that a puller/
extractor will be required to draw the hub
assembly off the dnveshaft dunng removal.
Caution: The front wheel camber setting
is controlled by the bolts securing the
hub carrier to the front suspension strut.
Before removing the bolts, mark the hub
carrier in relation to the strut accurately.
On completion, the camber setting must
be checked and adjusted by a suitablyequipped garage.
Removal
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the relevant front roadwheel,
2 On diesel engine models, undo the retaining
bolts and screws and remove the undertray
from beneath the engine.
3 On early models, remove the ABS wheel
speed sensor wiring plug from the suspension
strut bracket and disconnect the wiring
connector (see illustration).
4 On later models, depress the locking tab
and release the wiring connector from the
suspension stmt. Slide the locking bar on the
connector downward, then hold the upper
part of the connector and twist the lower part
to open the connector Disconnect the ABS
wheel speed sensor wire from the connector
and, if working on the left-hand swivel hub,
also disconnect the brake pad wear warning
indicator wire (see Illustrations).
5 Where fitted, tap off the driveshaft retaining
nut dust cap using a cold chisel or large
screwdriver (see illustration).
2.5 Where fitted, tap off the driveshaft
retaining nut dust cap
6 To prevent rotation of the wheel hub as the
driveshaft retaining nut Is slackened, make up
a holding tool and boft the tool to the wheel
hub using two wheel bolts (see Tool Tip).
7 With the holding tool in place, slacken and
remove the driveshaft retaining nut using a
socket and long bar. Where necessary, support
the socket on an axle stand to prevent it
slipping off the nut. This nut is very tight; make
sure that there is no risk of pulling the car off
the axle stands as the nut is slackened.
8 Extract the retaining clip and release the
hydraulic hose from the suspension stnjt (see
illustration). If working on the left-hand swivel
hub on early models, also release the brake
pad wear warning indicator wire fram ttie stmt
bracket.
9 Undo the two bolts securing the brake
g bracket to the swivel hub.
A tool to hold the wfieef hub stationary
whilst the dnveshaft retaining nut is
slackened can be fabricated from two
tengths of steel strip (one long, one
short; and a nut and boll; the nut and
bolt forming the pivot of a forked tool.
2.8 Extract the retaining clip and release
the hyUntuliC noSMa from the suspension
Strut
Slide the mounting bracket, complete with
brake caliper and pads off, the brake disc, and
tie it to the coil spring using wire or a cable-tie.
Note that new caliper mounting bracket bolts
will be required for refitting.
10 Undo the securing screw and remove
the brake disc from the wheel hub (see
Note that a new clamp bolt and nut will be
required for refitting.
13 Using a lever, push down on the
suspension lower arm to free the balljoint
from the swivel hub, then move the swivel
hub to one side and release the arm, taking
care not to damage the balljoint mbber boot
(see illustration). It Is advisable to place a
protective cover over the rubber boot, such as
the plastic cap from an aerosol can, suitably
cut to fit.
11 Unscrew the nut secuhng the track rad
end to the steering arm on the swivel hub,
then use a balljoint separator tool to remove
the track rod end (see illustration).
12 Unscrew the nut and remove the clamp
bolt securing the front suspension lower arm
balljoint to the swivel hub (see Illustrations).
14 The hub must now be freed from the end
of the drive^aft (see illustration). It may be
possible to pull the hub off the driveshaft,
but if the end of the driveshaft is tight in ttie
hub. temporarily refit the driveshaft retaining
nut to protect fhe driveshaft threads, ttien tap
the end of the driveshaft with a soft-faced
hammer while pulling outwards on the swivel
2.11 Unscrew the retaining nut, then use a
balljoint separator tool to remove the track
rod end from the swivel hub
2.12a Unscrew tho retaining nut
(arrowed)...
2.13 Push down the low
to free the balljoint from ttie swivel hub
2.14 Pull the swivel hub outwards then
withdraw the driveshaft from the hub
splines
hub. Alternatively, use a suitable puller to
press the driveshaft through the hub.
15 Mark the position of the suspension strut
on the swivel hub by drawing a circle around
the heads of the two retaining bolts. Note: This
Is important to maintain the camber setting.
16 Slacken and remove the two nuts and
bolts securing the suspension strut to the
swivel hub, noting that new nuts and bolts
will be required for refitting (see illustration).
Disengage the swivel hub from the stmt and
remove It from the car.
Refitting
17 Ensure that the driveshaft outer constant
velocity joint and hub splines are clean, then
slide the hub onto the driveshaft splines. Fit
the new driveshaft retaining nut, tightening it
by hand only at this stage,
18 Engage the swivel hub with the suspension
stnjt, and insert the new bolls fnsm the fnant of
the stmt so that their threads are facing to the
rear. Fit the new nuts, tightening them by hand
only at this stage,
19 Locate the lower arm ball|oint in the swivel
hub. Insert the clamp bolt from the front of
the swivel hub, so that its threads are facing
to the rear. Fit the new nut to the clamp bolt,
and tighten ft to the specified torque and
through the specified angles given in the
Specifications, using a torque wrench and
angle-tightening gauge.
20 With the hub correctly located, align the
strut-to-swivel hub bolt heads with the marks
made on the strut during removal. Tighten the
bolts to the specified tonque and through the
specified angles given in the Specifications,
using a torque wrench and angle-tightening
gauge.
21 Engage the track rod end in the swivel
hub, then fit the new retaining nut and tighten
il to the specified tonque setting,
22 Refit the brake disc and tighten its
retaining screw securely.
23 Slide the brake pads, caliper and mounting
bracket over the disc and into position on the
swivel hub. Fit the two new calipw mounting
bracket retaining bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque (see Chapter 9).
24 Reconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor
wiring connector and, where applicable, the
break pad wear warning indicator wire. Secure
the wiring in the relevant support brackets and
clips.
25 Refit the brake hydraulic hose to the
suspension strut and secure with the retaining
clip,
26 Using the method employed on removal
to prevent rotation, tighten the driveshaft
retaining nut through the stages given
in the Speciftcations. Where fitted, tap a
new driveshaft retaining nut dust cap Into
position.
27 Refit the rciadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolls
to the specified torque.
3
Front h u b bearings checking and renewal
I
Note: 777« front hub bearing and integral ABS
wheel speed sensor is a sealed unit and no
repairs are possible. If the bearing is worn
or the speed sensor Is faulty, a new bearing
assembly must be obtained.
Checking
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support It securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the roadwheel.
2 A dial test indicator (DTI) will be required to
measure the amount of play in the bearing.
Locate the DTI on the suspension strut and
zero the pnabe on the brake disc.
3 Lever the hub in and out and measure the
amount of play in the Isearing.
4 To measure the bearing lateral and radial
run-out, undo the two bolts securing the brake
caliper mounting bracket to the swivel hub.
Slide the mounting bracket, complete with
brake caliper and pads off the brake disc, and
tie it to the coll spring using wire or a cable-tie.
Note that new caliper mounting bracket bolts
will be required for refitting.
5 Undo the securing screw and remove the
brake disc from the wheel hub.
6 To check the lateral mn-out, locate the DTI
on the suspension strut and zero the probe
on the front face of the hub flange. Rotate the
hub and measure the run-out.
7 To check the radial run-out, zero the DTI
probe on the upper face of the extended
portion at the centre of the hub. Rotate the
hub and measure the run-out.
8 If the play or run-out exceeds the specified
amounts, renew ttie hub bearing as described
below.
9 If the bearing is satisfactory, refit the brake
disc and tighten its retaining screw securely.
10 Slide the brake pads, caliper and mounting
bracket over the disc and into position on the
swivel hub. Fit the two new caliper mounting
bracket retaining bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque (see Chapter 9),
11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified torque.
Renewal
Note: New hub bearing retaining bolts will be
required for refitting.
12 Remove the swivel hub as described in
Section 2.
13 Undo the three bolts securing the bearing
assembly to the swivel hub (see illustration).
14 Remove the bearing and the brake shield
from the swivel hub (see illustrations).
15 Thoroughly clean the swivel hub and
brake shield, then place the shield in position
on the swivel hub.
16 Locate the wheel bearing over the brake
shield and into the swivel hub. Position the
bearing so that the wheel speed sensor wiring
connector is towarcl the brake caliper side of
the swivel hub (ie, towards the front ot the
vehicle). Align the retaining bolt holes and fit
the three new bolts.
17 Tighten the retaining bolts pnagressively
to the specified Stage 1 tonque setting using a
torque wrench, and then through the specified
Stage 2 and Stage 3 angles, using an angle
tightening gauge.
18 Refit the swivel hub as described in Section 2.
4
Front s u s p e n s i o n s t m t removal, overhaul and refitting
^
Note: New strut-to-swivel hub boils and nuts,
strut upper mounting bolts and strut iinit rod
nut, will be required for refitting. Ideally, both
front suspension struts shouid be renewed
at the same time in order to maintain good
steering and suspension oharacteristics.
Removal
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frant
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacliing and vehicle support). Remove
the front roadwheel.
2 Extract the retaining clip and release the
hydraulic hose from the suspension strut (see
illustration 2.8). If working on the left-hand
suspension strut on early models, also release
the brake pad wear warning indicator wire
from the stmt bracket.
3 On early models, unscrew the retaining
bolt and release the ABS wheel speed sensor
wiring plug support plate from the suspension
strut bracket (see illustration).
4 On later models, depress the locking tab
and release the wiring connector from the
suspension stnjt bracket (see illustration Z4a).
5 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the
anti-roll bar link rod from the strut. Use a
spanner on the special flats to hold the link
3.14a Remove the beanng ..
while the nut is being loosened (see Illustration),
6 Mark the position of the suspension strut on
the swivel hub by drawing a circle around the
heads of the two retaining bolts. Note: This is
important to maintain the camtier setting.
7 Slacken and remove the two nuts and bolts
securing the suspension strut to the swivel hub,
noting that new nuts and boits will t>e required
for refitting (see Illustration 2.16), Disengage
the top of the swivel hub fram the strjt,
8 Support the stmt beneath the front wing
then, from within the engine compartment,
unscrew the three strut upper mounting bolts
(see illustration),
9 Lower the strut and withdraw it from under
the front wing,
OveHiaul
Note 1: A spring compressor
tool will be
4.3 On early models, unscrew the retaining
Don (arroweo) ana release ine winng plug
support plate from the strut bracket
4.10 Prise out the plastic cap from tt
strut upper mounting
3.14b . , , and the brake shield trom the
swivel hub
required for this operation. Before overhaul,
mark the position or eacn component in
relationship with each other for reassembly.
Note 2: A new piston rod nut will tie required
for reassembly.
10 Using a screwdnver, prise out the
plastic cap from the upper mounting (see
illustration).
11 With the suspension strut resting on
a bench, or clamped in a vice, fit a spring
compressor tool, and compress the coil spring
to relieve the pressure on the spring seats.
Ensure that the compressor tool is securely
located on the sphng, in accondance with the
tool manufacturer's instmctions,
12 Mark the position of the spring relevant
to the top and bottom mountings, then
counter-hold the strut piston rod with an Allen
key or suitable bit, and unscrew the piston rod
nut (see illustration).
4.5 Use a spanner on the flats to hold the
IInx vmiie tne nut is oeing looseneo
4.12 Counter-hokf the strut piston rod with
an Allen key or suitable bit, and u
the piston rod nut
4.13d . . . buffer . . .
4.13e . . . and spring from the strut
13 Remove the stmt upper mounting, upper
spring seat, mbber gaita-, buffer and spring
Irom the strut (see Illustrations),
14 With the stmt assembly now completely
dismantled, examine all the components for
wear, damage or defonnation. Renew any of
the components as necessary.
15 Examine the strut for signs of fluid
leakage. Oheck the strut piston for signs of
pitting along its entire length, and check the
stmt body for signs of damage. While holding
it in an upright position, test the operation of
the strut by moving the piston through a full
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance
felt should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jeriearing
assembly (see illustration).
16 Undo the four retaining nuts and remove
the bearing unit and brake disc shield from the
hub earner (see Illustration).
17 Thoroughly clean the hub carrier, bearing
unit and brake shield mating faces, then place
the shield in position on the bearing unit.
18 Retit the bearing unit and brake shield
to the hub carrier, and screw on four new
retaining nuts.
lect the ABS wheal speed
(arrowed) from the rear ot the bearing a:
8.16 Undo the four retaining nuts (arrowed) and n
bearing unit and brake disc shield from the hub carrier
19 Tigliten the retaining nuts progressively to
the specified Stage 1 torque setting using a
torque wrench, and then through the specified
Stage 2 and Stage 3 angles, using an angle
tightening gauge.
20 Reconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor
wJrtng connector.
21 Refit the brake disc and tighten its
retaining screw securely.
22 Slide the brake pads, caliper and mounting
bracket over the disc and Into position on the
hub carrier. Fit the two new caliper mounting
bracket retaining bolts and tighten them 1o the
specified torque (see Chapter 9).
23 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to ttie specified torque.
9.3 Undo the bolt (arrow-^di s.>-unnu the
handbrake cable support brücket to the
trailing arm front mounting
9.7 Undo the four boHs (arrowed) securing
the trailing arm front mounting bracket to
the underbody
9
Rear hub c a r r i e r -
^
removal and refitting
^
Note: It is recommended that all mounting
nuts and bolls are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support It on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support].
Remove the roadwheel.
2 Disengage the handbralt
nuts and bolts are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the roadwheel.
2 If working on the left-hand lower contrai
arm, suitably support the exhaust system and
release the rubber mounting blocks at the
rear. Lower the system slightly for access to
the control arm.
3 If working on the left-hand lower contrai
arm on models with xenon headlights, undo
the retaining bolt and detach the headlight
range control linkage from the lower control
5 Undo the bolt securing the lower control arm
to the hub can^ier (see illustration 9.10c).
6 Accurately mari< the position ofthe camber
adjustment eccentric disc on the lower control
arm inner mounting (see illustration). Undo
the bolt securing the lower conttol ami to the
rear axle body and remove the control ami
6 Undo the four bolts securing the trailing ami
fnsnt mounting bracket to the underbody (see
illustration 9.7).
7 Undo the three bolts securing the trailing
arm to the hub can-ler and remove the trailing
arm from the car.
Refitting
(arrowed) on the lower oontrol arm Inner
mounting
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque and, where necessary, in the
stages given. Note that new nuts/bolts
should be used on all disturbed fittings.
b) Align the camber adjustment eccentric
disc wim the marks made on removal
when tightening the control arm inner
mounting bolt.
c) RefH the rear coll spring as described in
Section TO,
d) Have the rear wheel toe-in setting and
camber angle checked and if necessary
adjusted at the earliest opportunity.
^'.13 Rear s u s p e n s i o n
auxiitary c o n t r o l a r m i-^ remova! and refitting
fi^
^
Note: it is recommended that all mounting
nuts and bolts are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Ohock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the roadwheel.
2 Remove the rear coil spring as described in
Section 10.
3 Place a jack under the hub carrier and
just take the weight of the rear suspension
assembly.
4 Undo the bolt securing ihe auxiliary control
arm to the hub carrier (see illustration 9.10a).
6 Accurately mark rbe position of the toe-in
adjustment eccentric disc on the auxiliary
contnji arm inner mounting (see illustration).
Undo the bolt securing the auxiliary control
ami to the rear axle body and remove the
control arm from the car.
ecoentric disc
(arrowed) on the auxiliary control arm inner
mounting
b) Align the toe-in adjustment eccentric disc
with the marks made on removal when
tightening the control arm inner mounting
bolt
c) Refit the rear coil spring as described in
Section 10.
d) Have ihe rear wheel toe-in setting and
camber angle checked and If necessary
adjusted at the eariiest opportunity.
1 4 Rear s u s p e n s i o n trailing a r m
- removai and refitting
^
Note: It IS recommended that all mounting
nuis ana calts are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheeis then jack up the
rear of the oar and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the roadwheel.
2 Release the handbrake cable from the clip on
the trailing ami, then undo the bolt securing the
handbrake cable support bracket to the trailing
arm ftont mounting (see illustration 9.3). Move
the handbrake cable to wie side.
3 Unclip the ABS wheel speed sensor wiring
hamess from the trailing arm.
4 Place a jack under the hub carrier and
just take the weight of the rear suspension
assembly.
5 Unscrew the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and detach the shock absortwr
from the hub carrier.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tiearing
mind the following points;
^ Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque and. where necessary, In the
stages given. Note that new nuts/bolts
should tie used on all disturbed fittings.
8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing In
mind the following points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque and, wtiere necessary, in the
stages given. Note that new nuts/bolts
should be used on all disturbed mngs.
b) Have the rear wheel toe-in setting and
camber angle checked and if necessary
adjusted at tiie earliest opportunity
15 Rear s h o c k a b s o r b e r removal, testing and refitting
&
S
Note 1: Always renew shock absorbers In
pairs and the correct version for the model to
maintain good handling.
Note 2: It is recommended that the shock
absorber mounting boits are renewed when
refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the rciadwheel.
2 Place a jack under the hub carrier and
just take the weight of the rear suspension
assembly.
3 Unscrew the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and detach the shook absorber
frcm the hub carrier
4 Unscrew the shock absorber upper
mounting bolt and remove the shock absortjer
from the car (see illustration).
listing
5 Examine fhe shock absorber for signs of
fluid leakage or damage. Test the operation
of the strut, while holding it in an upright
position, by moving the piston thrciugh a full
strcike, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance
felt should be smooth and continuous. If
the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there
is any visible sign of wear or damage to the
stmt, renewal Is necessary. Also check the
rubber mounting bush(es) for damage and
deterioration. If the bushes are damaged or
worn, the complete shook absorber will have
to be renewed, as the mounting bushes are
not available, separately. Inspect the shanks
of the mounting bolts for signs of wear or
damage, and renew as necessary.
Refitting
15.4 Shock absorber upper mounting boH
(arrowed)
6 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, tightening
the new mounting bolts to the specified
torque.
16 Rear axle b o d y removal and refitting
Note 1: Vauxhail technicians use special jigs
to ensure that the rear axle body Is correctly
aligned. Vi/ithout the uso of these tools
it is important to note and suitably mark
the position of the axle body accurately
before removal. If necessary, refer to the
information contained in Section 6 regarding
the fabrication of a home-made aligning
tool, and adapt the principle for the rear axle
body
Note 2: It is recommended that alt mounting
nuts and bo/ls are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove both rear the roadwheels.
2 Remove the complete exhaust system as
described in Chapter dA or 4B as applicable.
3 Disengage the handbrake inner cable
from the rear brake caliper levers, then pull
the outer cable grommet out of the caliper
brackets (see Illustrations 9.2a and 9.2b).
4 Undo the two bolts securing the brake
caliper mounting bracket to the hub carrier
on each side. Slide the mounting bracket,
complete with brake caliper and pads ofl the
brake disc, and tie it to the shock absorber
upper mounting using wire or cable-ties. Note
that new caliper mounting bracket bolts will
be required for refitting,
5 Release the handbrake cable from the
clip on each trailing arm. then undo the bolt
securing the handbrake cable support bracket
to the trailing arm front mounting, on each side
(see Illustration 9,3). Move the handbrake
cables to one side.
e Trace the ABS wheel speed sensor wiring
harness back to the wiring connector on the
underbody and disconnect the connector
Reiease the harness from the underbody clips
so that its free to be removed with the rear
axle body.
7 On models with a tyre pressure monitoring
system, undo the screws and clips and remove
the wheel arch liners on both sides. Trace the
wiring harness back to the connectors, and
disconnect the wiring connectors on each
side. Release the harness from the clips on
the undertxjdy.
8 On models with xenon headlights, undo the
retaining bolt and detach the headlight range
control linkage from the lower control arm on
the left-hand side.
9 Remove the rear coil spring on each side as
described in Section 10.
10 Unscrew the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and detach the shock absortier
from the hub carrier
11 Undo the four bolts securing the trailing
arm frant mounting bracket to the underaody
(see Illustration 9.7).
16.13a
12 Support the rear axle body with a cradle
acnass a trolley jack. Alternatively, two trolley
jacks and the help of an assistant will be
required,
13 Undo the four bolts securing the rear
axle body to the vehicle underbody (see
illustrations).
14 Slowly and carefully lower the rear axie
body to the ground. As fhe assembly is
lowered, make sure there are no cables or
wiring still attached.
15 With the rear axle body removed from the
car, if required, cany out further dismantling
to remove the attached components, with
reference to the applicable Sections of this
Chapter
Refitting
16 Reftting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points;
aj Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque and, where necessary, in the
stages given. Note that new nuts/tx>lts
should be used on all disturbed fittings.
b) fvlake sure that Ihe rearaxle body
is conectly aligned with the vehicle
underbody before fully-tightening the
mounting bolts.
17 Rear anti-roll b a r removal and refitting
^
^
Note: ft is recommended that all mounting
nuts and bolts are renewed when refitting.
Refitting
6 Align the mounting rubbers with the marks
made on the anti-roll bar prior to removal,
7 Refit the anti-roll bar to the rear axle body,
and fit the mounting clamps. Ensure that
the clamp half is correctly engaged with the
anti-roll bar rubbers, then tighten each clamp
retaining bolt, by hand only at this stage.
8 With the two clamps loosely installed, check
the position of the anti-roll bar to the marks
made on removal, then tighten the clamp bolts
to the specified torque setUng,
9 Refit the link rods to the hub carriers
using new bolts, and tighten the tiolts to the
specified torque setting,
10 Refit the rear axle body as described in
Section 16,
18 Steering Wheelremoval and refitting
A
^
^
Warning: Make sure that the
alrbag safety
recommendations
given in Chapter 12 are followed,
to prevent personal injury.
Removal
1 Remove the alrbag as described in Chapter 12.
2 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position, then lock the column in position after
removing the ignition key,
3 Disconnect the wiring harness connector for
the steering wheel switches (see Illustration).
Removal
1 Remove the rear axle body as described in
Section 16,
2 Undo the bolt and detach the anti-roll bar
link rod from the hub carrier on each side (see
3 Priorto removal ofthe anti-rail bar, mark the
position of each anti-roll bar mounting clamp
rubber.
4 Unscrew the two bolts hom each mounting
clamp, and remove the clamp. As the last
clamp is removed, support the anti-roll bar
and remove il from the rear axle body.
5 Inspect the mountmg clamp rubbers for
signs of damage and deterioration, and renew
if necessary.
18.3 Disconnectthe wiring harness
connector (arrowed) for the steering wheel
18.4 Steering wheel retaining bolt
(arrowed)
4 Unscrew the Torx retaining bolt securing
the steerinc wheel to the column (see
Ulustratlon).
5 Check that there are alignment marks
between the steering column shaft and
steering wheel (see illustration). If no marks
are visible, centre punch the wheel and
column shaft to ensure correct alignment
when refitting,
6 Grip the steenng wheel with both hands
and carefully rock it from side-to-slde to
release it from the splines on the steering
column. AS the steering wheel is being
removed, guide the wiring for the alrbag
through the aperture in the wheel, taking
care not to damage the wiring connectors
(«ee illustration).
fteritting
7 Refit the steering wheel, aligning the marks
made prior to removal. Route Ihe airbag
wlhng connectors through the steering wheel
aperture. Note: Make sure the steering wheel
centre hub locates correctly with the contact
unit on the steering column.
8 Clean the threads on the retaining bolt and
the threads in the steenng column. Coat the
retaining bolt with locking compound, then fit
the retaining bolt and tighten to the specified
torque.
fl Reconnect the wiring connector for the
steering wheel switches.
10 Release the steering lock, and refit the
airbag as described in Chapter 12.
19.4 Insert a thin rod into the lock housing
hole, press the rod to release the detent
spring, and pull out the lock cylinder
18.5 Alignment marks (anowed) between
the steering column shaft and steering
wheel
19 Ignition s w i t c h /
steering column lock removal and refitting
^
^
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the steering column shnauds as
described in Chapter 11.
3 Insert the ignition key into the ignition
switch/lock, and turn it to position I.
4 Insert a thin rod into the hole in the lock
housing, press the rod to release the detent
spring, and pull cut the lock cylinder using the
key (see llluBtratlon).
Refitting
5 Insert the ignition switch/lock info the lock
housing, while the key is in position I. Remove
the rod trom the lock housing.
6 Reft steering column shrouds as described
in Chapter 11, then reconnect the battery.
20 S t e e r i n g c o l u m n removal and refitting
18,6 Guide the wiring for the alrbag
through the aperture in the wheel, taking
care not to damage the wiring connectors
Removal
1 Remove the steering wheel as described in
Section 13.
2 Remove the facia footwell trim panel on the
driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
3 Remove the steering column shnauds as
described in Chapter 11.
4 Remove the steering column electronics
module as described in Chapter 12,
5 11 applicable, make sure the steering column
adjustment handle is in the locked position.
6 Using paint or similar, make alignment
marks between the steering column and
intermediate shaft, then slacken and remove
the clamp bolt securing the Intennediate shaft
to the steering column (see illustration).
Separate the Intermediate shaft from the
steering column shaft,
7 Undo the retaining bolt and disconnect the
earth cable from the column. Unscrew the
plastic retainer and release the wiring harness
from the side of the column (see illustration).
8 Where fitted, remove the clutch switch from
the pedal bracket assembly
9 Unscrewthesteeringcolumnlowerfastening
clamp bolt, and the two upper mounting boHs
(see illustrations). Withdraw the steering
column from the facia crossmember, and
remove the column fram inside the vehicle.
Refitting
Note: It Is recommended that all mounting
nuts and bolts are renewed when refitting.
10 Refrtting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the
20.6 Slacken and remove the clamp boH
(arrowed) securing the intermediate shaft
to the steering column
20.7 Unscrew ttw plastic rataiiMT
(arrowed] and release fhe wiring h a m e N
from the side of the column
torque and. where necessary, in the
stages given. Note that new nuts/bolts
sliould be used on all disturbed fittings.
b) Ensure ttiat the marts made on the
steering column and intermediate shaft
are correctly aligned.
c) Refit the steering column electronics
module as descnbed in Chapter 12.
d} Refit the steering column shrouds and
facia footwell trim panel as descritied in
Chapter 11.
el Rnfit the steenng wheel as described in
Section 18.
: 21 P o w e r steering s y s t e m level check, filling
:-,
and bleeding
^
S
Note: There is no definitive list of which models
have which type of steering. The oniy way to
tell is by the location of the fluid reservoir If
It's visible in the engine compartment, then ifs
compact EHPS. If ifs not visible in the engine
compartment then it's under the wheel arch,
and ifs standard EHPS.
Models
with
standard
EHPS
1 Firmly apply Ihe handbrake, then jack up
the front ot Ihe car and support It securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
2 Undo the retaining screws, release the clips
and remove Ihe wheel arch liner trom Ihe
wheel arch and subframe on the right-hand
side (see Illustration 6.12).
3 Check that Ihe fluid level is between the
upper MAX line and lower MIN line on the
side of the EHPS supply unit reservoir (see
illustration)4 If topptng-up is necessary, remove the filler
cap from the lop of the reservoir. Obtain a
clean funnel and a long length of flexible pipe
to tit the end of the funnel. From within the
engine compartment, insert the pipe through
the gap between the air cleaner housing and
the headlight and insert the pipe into the top
of the rosen/oir (see illustration).
5 Using power steering fluid of the specified
type (see Lubricants and fluids), fill the
reservoir up to the MAX line, by means of Ihe
funnel and tube.
6 If the system has been completely drained
and is being refilled after a repair operaiioi;
cany out the following bleeding procedure •
the system was only being topped-up. remi •-•
the tunnel and tube and refit the resen/oir filh_'
cap. Refit the wheel arch liner and roadwhet
then lower the car to the ground.
7 To bleed the system, make sure the fluid
level in the reservoir is up to fhe MAX mark
and check the level constantly dunng the
bleeding procedure.
8 Start the engine, then switch It off again
after approximately five seconds. Repeat this
procedure two more times, pausing briefly
between each stop/start and maintaining the
fluid level in the reservoir.
20.9a Unscrew the steering column lower
fastening clamp tiolt (arrowed)...
20.9b . . . and the two upp». ..,^..,...,.„
bolts (one side arrowed
9 Now start the engine again and allow it to
Idle. Turn the steering to full left lock, then full
right lock five times. Switch the engine off.
10 Recheck the fluid level In the resen/oir and
top-up if necessary. Remove the funnel and
tube and refit the reservoir filler cap,
11 Refit the wheel arch liner and roadwheel,
then lower the car to the ground,
12 It is possible that some air may still remain
In the system after bleeding but this will be
expelled when the car is driven on the road.
Models
with compact
EHPS
13 Reach down behind the engine and
unscrew the filler cap from the EHPS supply
unit reservoir (see illustration).
14 W/ipe clean the dipstick which is integral
with the cap. Refit the cap, then remove it
once more and observe the fluid level on the
dipstick. The level should be up to the MAX
mark (see illustration),
15 If topping-up is necessary, obtain a clean
funnel and a long length of flexible pipe to fit
the end of the funnel. Insert the pipe down
behind the engine and into the top of the
reservoir. Using power steering fluid of Ihe
specified type (see Lubricants and fluids), fill
the reservoir by means of the funnel and tube
until the level Is up to the MAX line on the
dipstick,
16 If the system has been completely drained
and Is being refilled after a repair operation,
carry out the bleeding procedure described
previously In paragraphs 7 to 10, It the system
was only being topped-up, remove the funnel
and tube and refit the reservoir filler cap.
21.3 Ruld level MAX and MIN lines on
the side of the standard EHPS supply unit
21.4 Insert a pipe through the gap
between the air cleaner housing and the
headlight and into the top of the reservoir
21.13 Reach down behind the engine and
I ttie filler cap from the compact
EHPS supply unit reservoir
21.14 Maximum mark (arrowed) on the
fluid level dipstick
Lift off the two washers then remove the bolts.
Note tiiat new nuts and bolts will be required
for refitting.
6 Twist the anti-roll bar upwarels, then lift the
steering gear off the subframe.
7 If a new steering gear assembly is to be
fitted, then tiie track rod ends will need to be
removed from each end of the steering track
rods (see Section 25).
Inspection
22 Steering gear assembiy removal, inspection
and refitting
Note; It is recommended tliat all mounting
nuts and bolts are lenewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Remove tiie front subframe as described in
Section 6.
2 On models with compact EHPS, remove
the EHPS supply unit and mounting bracket
as described in Section 23.
3 Disconnect the steering angle sensor wiring
connector from the steering gear. Note the
touting of the wiring harness, then release
it from the clips on the hydraulic pipes and
steering gear and move the harness to one
side.
4 Place a suitable container beneath the
hydraulic supply and return pipes on the
steering gear and be prepared for escaping
hydraulic fluid. Undo the bolt securing the
hydraulic supply and return pipe retaining
plate to the steering gear. Withdraw the
pipes fnam the steering gear and collect the
retaining plate. Collect the escaping fluid in the
container. Note that new sealing 0-rings will
be required for the hydraulic pipes for refitting.
Suitably cover or plug the disconnected
unions to prevent dirt entry.
5 Undo the nuts from the two steering gear
mounting bolts, while counter-holding the boits
from under the subframe (see illustration).
23.5 Disconnect the wiring
(anrowred) at ttie EHPS supply unH
8 Examine the steering gear assembly for
signs of wear or damage, and check that the
rack moves freely throughout the full length
of its travel, with no signs of roughness or
excessive free play between the steering
gear pinion and rack, if any problems of this
nature are noted, renewal of the steering
gear will be necessary. The only components
which can be renewed separately are the
steering gear gaiters, the track rod ends and
the track rods. Steering gear gaiter, track
rod end and track rod renewal procedures
are covered in Sections 24, 25 and 26
respectively.
Refitting
9 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, bearing in mind the following
points:
a) Renew the sealing 0-rings on the
hydraulic supply and retum pipes.
bj Tighten the steering gear mounting t>olt
nuts to the specified torque in the stages
given. Note that new nuts/bolts should be
used.
c) On models with compact EHPS, refit
the supply unit and mounting bracket as
described in Section 23.
d) Set the steering gear in the straightahead position prior to refitting the front
subframe.
e) Refit the front subframe as described in
Section 6.
fj Where applicable, fit new track rod
balljoints as described in Section 25.
g) On completion, fill and Weed the power
steering system as described in Section 21.
h) Have the front wheel toe setting checked
and if necessary adjusted at the eariiest
opportunity.
23.6 Hydraulic supply and retum pipe
connections (arrowed) on the side ot the
EHPS s u i ^ l y unit
23 Efecfro-hydraulic p o w e r
s t e e r i n g (EHPS) stjpply unit removal and refitting
^
^
Note 1: Tj^e EHPS supply unit composes
the power steering pump, electric pump
drive motor and the EHPS electronic control
unit The supply unit is a sealed component
and the individual parts cannot be removed
separately.
Note 2: If a new EHPS supply unit is to be
fitted, it will be necessary to programme the
new ECU after Installation. This worii requires
the use of dedicated Vauxhall/Opel diagnostic
equipment or a compatible altemative.
Standard
EHPS
Removal
1 The EHPS supply unit is located under
the front wheel-arch on the right-hand side,
behind the wheel aroh liner. ,
2 Fimily apply the handbrake; then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
3 On diesel engine models, undo the retaining
bolts and screws and remove the engine
undertray
4 Undo the retaining screws, release the clips
and remove the wheel arch liner from the
wheel arch and subframe on fhe right-hand
side (see illustration 6.12)
5 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
EHPS supply unit, then release the wiring
harness from the retaining clips on the
mounting bracket (see itiustration).
6 Place a suitable container beneath the
hydraulic supply and return pipes on the side
of the EHPS supply unit and be prepared for
escaping hydraulic fluid (see Illustration).
7 Wipe clean the area around the supply pipe
and return hose connections. Undo the supply
pipe union and withdraw the pipe from the
EHPS supply unit. Collect ttie escaping fluid in
the container
8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the
fluid return hose from the supply unit. Suitably
cover or plug the disconnected unions to
prevent dirt entry.
23.9 Undo ttie lower EHPS supply unit
mourning bracket retaining bolt (arrowed)
9 Undo the lower EHPS supply unit mounting
bracket retaining bolt, noting that Ihis bolt also
secures the front subframe (see illustration).
Note that a new bolt will be required for
refitting.
10 Undo the two upper supply unit mounting
bracket retaining bolts and withdraw the
supply unit and mounting bracket from under
the wheel arch.
11 If required, undo the three nuts and
remove the supply unit from the mounting
bracket.
Refitting
12 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, bearing In mind the following points:
aj Renew the sealing O-ring on the hydraulic
supply pipe if there is any sign of
deterioration.
b) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the
specified tongue and. where necessary,
in the stages given. Note that a supply
unit mounting bracket lower retaining bolt
must be used.
cl On completion, fill and bleed the power
steenng system as descnbed in Section 21.
Compact
EHPS
Removal
13 The EHPS supply unit is mounted on the
front subframe, above the steering gear
14 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
On diesel engine models, undo the retaining
bolts and screws and remove the engine
undertray.
15 On diesel engine models, remove the fuel
fitter crash box as described In Chapter 4B16 If necessary, for improved access below
the car, remove the exhaust system as
described in Chapter 4A or 4B, as applicable,
17 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
EHPS supply unit.
IS Place a suitable container beneath the
hydraulic supply and return pipes on the
steering gear and be prepared for escaping
hydraulic fluid. Undo the bolt securing the
hydraulic supply and return pipe retaining
plate to the steering gear. Withdraw the
pipes from the steering gear and collect the
retaining plate. Collect the escaping fluid in the
container. Note that new sealing 0-rings will
be required for the hydraulic pipes for refitting.
Suitably cover or plug the disconnected
unions to prevent dirt entry.
19 Undo the three nuts securing the EHPS
supply unit to its mounting bracket. Lift the
supply unit, complete with hydraulic pipes,
and remove rt from the car On diesel engine
models, the unrt is removed frcm above; on
petrol engine models, from below.
20 If required the supply unit mounting
bracket can be removed from the subframe,
after undoing the three retaining bolts.
Refitting
21 Refitting Is a reverse of the removal
procedure, bearing in mind the following
points:
a) Renew the sealing O-rings on the
hydraulic supply and return pipes.
b) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the
specified torque.
c) On diesel engine models, refit the fuel filter
crash box as described in Chapter 4B.
d) If removed, refit the exhaust system
as described in Chapter 4A or 4B as
applicable.
e) On completion, Hll and bleed tbe power
steering system as described in Section 21.
24 Steering gear rubber gaiters
- renewal
1 Remove the track rod end as described in
Section 25.
2 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiter
on the track rod, then release the retaining
clips, and slide the gaiter oft the steering gear
housing and track rod.
3 Thoroughly clean the track rod and
the steering gear housing, clean off any
corrosion, bun-s or sharp edges which might
damage the new gaiter's sealing lips on
installation,
4 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the track
rod end, and locate rt on the steering gear
housing. Align the outer edge of the gaiter
with the mark made on the track rod prior to
removal, then secure It In position with new
retaining clips.
5 Refit the track rod end as described in
Section 25.
25 Track rod end removal and refitting
Note; A new track rod end-to-swivel hub
retaining nui will be required when refitting.
Removal
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely
on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
support). Remove the appropriate front
roadwheel.
2 If the track rod end is to be re-used, use a
scribar or similar, lo mark its relationship to
the track rod.
3 Hold the track rod arm, and unscrew the
track nxl end lockout by a quarter of a tum.
4 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
track rod end to the swivel hub, and release
the balljoint tapered shank using a universal
balljoint separator (see illustration). Discard
the nut; a new one must be used of refitting.
5 Counting the exact number of turns
necessary to do so, unscrew the track rod end
from the track rod.
6 Count the number of exposed threads
between the end of the track rod and the
J
25.4 Release the balljoint tapered shank
using a universal balljoint separator
locknut, and record this figure. If a new gaiter
Is to be fitted, unscrew the locknut from the
track rod.
7 Carefully clean the track rod end and the
track rad threads. Renew the track rod end
if there is excessive free play of the balljoint
shank, or if the shank is excessively stiff. If the
balljoint gaiter is damaged, the complete track'
rod end assembly must be renewed: it Is not
possible to obtain the gaiter separately
Refitting
S If it was removed, screw the locknut onto
the track rod threads, and position it so that
the same number of exposed threads are
visible as was noted prior to removal.
9 Screw the track rod end on to the track
rod by the number of turns noted on removal.
This should bring the track rod end to within
approximately a quarter of a turn from the
locknut, with the alignment marks that were
noted on removal.
10 Retit the track rod end balljoint shank to
the swivel hub, then tit a new retaining nut
and tighten it to the specified torque setting.
If the balljoint shank turns as the nut is being
rightened, press down on the track rod end
to force the tapered p ^ of Ihe shank into the
arm on the swivel hub.
11 Tighten the track rod end securing locknut
on the track rod while holding Ihe track rod
stationary with a second spanner on the flats
provided,
12 Refrt the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified tonque setting.
13 Have the front wheel toe setting checked
and If necessary adjusted at the eariiest
opportunity
26 Track r o d renewal
^
Note: When refitting, a new track rod
end-to-swivel hub nut and new gaiter retaining
clips will be required. Vauxhall/Opel special
tool KfVI-6321, or a suitable equivalent, will
be required to unscrew the track rod Inner
tiallioint from the end of the steering rack.
1 Remove the track rod end as described in
Section 25,
2 Release the retaining clips, and slide the
steering gear gaiter off the end of the track
rod as descritied in Section 24.
3 If the track rod on the passenger's side is
being removed, it will be necessary to release
the clip and fold back the gaiter on fhe driver's
side also. A flat is provided on tho rack, on
the driver's side, to enable the rack to be held
stationary while the track rod is unscrewed.
4 Turn the steering on full lock, so that the
rack protrudes from the steehng gear housing
on the relevant side, slide the cover {where
fitted) off the inner balljoint,
5 Engage the help of an assistant, if
necessary, and prevent the rack from nutating
using an open-ended spanner located on the
rack flat on the driver's side. Unscrew and
remove the track rod inner balljoint fnom the
end of the steering rack using the special tool
or suitable equivalent.
6 Remove the track rod assembly, and
examine the track rod inner balljoint for
signs of slackness or tight spots. Check that
the track rod itself is straight and free from
damage. If necessary, renew the track rod; it
is also recommended that the steering gear
galter/dust cover Is renewed.
7 Screw the balljoint Into the end of the
steering rack. Tighten the track rod inner
balljoint fo the specified torque, whilst
retaining the steering rack with an open-ended
27 Wheel a l i g n m e n t
a n d steering angles general information
Definitions
1 A car's steering and suspension geometry
Is defined in four basic settings - all angles are
expressed in degrees (toe settings are also
expressed as a measurement); the steering
axis is defined as an imaginary line drawn
through the axis of the suspension strut,
extended where necessary to contact the
ground.
2 Camber Is the angle between each
naadwheel and a vertical line drawn through its
centre and tyre contact patch, when viewed
from the front or rear of fhe car. Positive
camber Is when the roadwheels are tilted
outwands ftom the vertical at the top; negative
camber is when they are tilted Inwards. Slight
adjustment of the front camber angle is
possible, by altering the position of the swivel
hub at Its attachment to the front suspension
stmt. Tbe rear camber angle can be adjusted
by altering the position of the eccentric disc
on the lower control arm inner mounting.
3 Castor is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line drawn through each
roadwheel's centre and tyre contact patch,
when viewed from the side of the car. Positive
castor is when the steering axis is tilted so that
it contacts the ground ahead of the vertical:
negative castor is when it contacts the ground
behind the vertical. The castor angle is not
adjustable.
4 Toe is the difference, viewed from above,
between lines drawn through the roadwheel
centres and the car's centre-line. 'Toe-in' is
when the roadwheels point inwarcis, towards
each other at the front, while 'toe-out' Is when
they splay outwards from each other at the
front.
5 The front wheel toe setting is adjusted
by screwing the track rod in or out of its
balljoints, to alter the effective length of the
track rod assembly. The rear wheel toe setting
can be adjusted by altering the position of
the eccentric disc on the auxiliary control arm
inner mounting.
Cliecldng
and
adjustment
6 Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to check the wheel alignment
and steering angles, and the skill required to
use it properly, the checking and adjustment
of these settings is best left to a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or similar expert. Note that most
tyre-fitting shops now possess sophisticated
checking equipment.
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Contents
Section number
Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting
23
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment
8
Bonnet lock spring - removal and refitting
10
Bonnet release cable - removal and reftting
9
Boot lid and support stnjts - removal, refitting and adjustment
16
Boot lid lock components - removal and refitting
17
Centre console - removal and refitting
28
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment
11
Door handles and lock components - removal and refitting
13
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting
12
Door window regulator and glass - removal and refrtting
14
Extenor mirrors and associated components - removal arxJ refitting , 20
Facia panel components - removal and refitting
29
Front bumper - removal and refitting
6
General information
1
Section numlMr
Interior trim-removal and refitting
Maintenance - fcwdywork and underframe
Ivlaintenance of upholstery and carpets - general
Major body damage repair - general
Minor body damage - repair
Rear bumper - removal and refitting
Rear quarter window glass-removal and refitting
Seat belt components - removal and refitting
Seat belt tensioning mechanism - general infomiation
Seats - removal and refitting
Sunroof - general information
Tailgate and support struts - removal, refitting and adjustment
Tailgate lock components - removai and refitting
Windscreen and fixed window glass - general information
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
FaiilycHncun,
^
suitable for competent^
DIYmeclianic
«
Difncutt, suitable
^
for experienced DIY
mechanic
J
Specifications
Torque wrench settings
Front seat t«lt anchorage bolts .. ..
Front seat belt inertia reel bolt
Front seat mounting bolts
Rear seat belt anchorage bolts
Rear seat belt inertia reel bolt
Rear seat belt stalk retaining bolts..
Nm
25
20
25
35
35
35
35
35
bfll
18
15
18
26
26
26
26
26
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
27
2
3
5
4
7
15
26
25
24
22
18
19
21
1
Generaf i n f o r m a t i o n
The bodyshell is made of pressed-steel
sections, and is available in three- and
five-door Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
versions. Most components are welded
together, but some use is made of structural
adhesives; the front wings are bolted on.
The bonnet is made of aluminium, whereas
the doors, and some other vulnerable panels,
are made of zinc-coated metal. These are
further protected by being coated with an
anti-chip primer, prior to being sprayed.
Extensive use is made of plastic materials,
mainly on the Interior, but also in exterior
components. The front and rear bumpers are
Injection-moulded from a synthetic material
which is very strong and yet light. Plastic
components such as wheel arch liners are
fitted to the underside of the vehicle, to
impnave the body's resistance to conoslon.
.2
Maintenancebodywork and underframe
inu <](!n';ral condition of a vehicle's
bodv-wori4 IS the one thing that significantly
affects Its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly
after minor damage, can lead quickly to
further deterioration and costly repair bills.
If is important also to keep watch on those
parts of the vehicle not immediately visible,
for instance the underside, inside all the
wheel arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot
of water, from a hose. This will remove all
the loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arcihes and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches Is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically and this Is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a
wax-based underbody protective coating,
it is a good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to
see what minor repairs and renovations
are necessary Steam-cleaning is available
at many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to tiecome thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents avaiiabie which can be bmsh-appiied;
the dirt can then be simply hosed off. Note that
those methods should not be used on vehicles
with wax-based underbody protective coating,
or the coating will tie removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to Winter, when the underbody should
be washed down, and any damage to the
wax coating repaired. Ideally, a completely
fresh coat should be applied. It would also be
worth considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage, where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling IS usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check
that the door and ventilator opening drain
holes and pipes see completely clear, so that
water can be drained out. Brightwork should
be treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by
the use of proprietaiy glass cleaner Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
3
M a i n t e n a n c e of u p h o l s t e r y
andcarpets-
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
Of grit. If they are badly stained, remove thwn
from the vehicle for scabbing or sponging,
and make quhe sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and Interior trim panels can
be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If
they do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use
a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush
to scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams
and padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rat.
If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally. It Is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry It out properly, particularly whse
carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or electric
heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose.
4
Minor body damage repair •
Minor
scratclies
if the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch witii a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the sunounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using
a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine
layers of paint until the surface of the paint
in the scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least
two weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by robbing tiie scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to mst, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from
the bottom of the scratch with a penknife,
then apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent
the formation of rust in the future. Using a
mbber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which Is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinnere, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste In
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface
of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
arlier in tills Section.
Dents
When deep denting of the vehicle's
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There Is little
point in trying fo restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot
be reshaped fully to its original contour. It
is better to bring the level of the dent up to
a point which Is about 3 mm below the level
of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where
the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of
the dent is accessible, it can be hammered
out gently fiom behind, using a mallet with
a wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent
a large area of the bodywork from being
'belled-out'.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through fhe metal inside
the area ~ particularly in the deeper section.
TTien screw long self-tapping screws Into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protrtjding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
trim It to the approximate size and shape
required, then pull off the backing paper
(if used) and stick the tape over the hole;
it can be overlapped if the thickness of one
piece is insufficient. Burnish down the edges
of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver
or similar, to ensure that the tape Is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Filling
and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hartlener are best for this type of repair
A wide, Pexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparling a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
To complete the repair, see the Section on
(follow the maker's instmctions on the pack),
filling and res praying.
othenwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
R u s t holes or
gashes
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
Remove all paint from the affected area, paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator
and from an Inch or so of the surrounding across the surface of the filler to achieve the
'sound' bodyworii, using an abrasive pad or correct contour and to level the surface. As
a wire brush on a power drill. 11 these are not soon as a contour that approximates to the
available, a few sheets ol abrasive paper will correct one Is achieved, stop working the
paste - if you carry on too long, the paste will
do the job most effectively With the paint
become sticky and begin to 'pick-up' on the
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether applicator Continue to add thin layere of filler
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or paste at 20-minute intervals, until the level
to repair the affected area. New body panels of the filler is just proud of the surrounding
are not as expensive as most people think, bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to
fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
areas of corrosion.
abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the 40-grade production paper, and finishing with
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper Always wrap
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or the abrasive paper around a flai ruuoer corK,
a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
any other metal badly affected by con-osion. the filler will not be completely flat. During the
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-dry
order to create a slight depression for the filler paper should be periodically rinsoa in water
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the 'dent' should be
the powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which
in turn should be encircled by the finely
rust-inhibiting paint. If the back of the rusted
'leathered' edge of the good pairuworK. Hinse
area is accessible, tmat this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be the repair area with clean water, until all of the
necessary lo block the hole in some way. This dust produced by the mbbing-down operation
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre primer - this will show up any imperfections
matting. Is probably the best material to use in the surface of the filler. Repair these
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
size and shape of the hole tc be filled, then
position it in the hole so that its edges are surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
below the level of the sun-ounding bodywork. spray-and-repalr procedure until you are
It can be retained in position by several blebs satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
of filler paste around its periphery.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
Aluminium tape should be used for small
or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, allow to dry fully.
The next stage of the repair is the remove
of the paint from the damaged area, and
from an Inch or so of the sunounding 'sound'
tjodywork. Tbis is accomplished most easily by
using a wire bmsh or abrasive pad on a power
drill, although it can be done just as effectively
by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver
or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small
holes in the affected area. This will provide a
really good 'key' for the filler paste.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried
out in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced lo work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully if you are woridng indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will hdp
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywori<
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat
of primer; the thickness should be built up using
several thin layers of paint, rattier than one thick
one. Using 400-grade wet-and-dry paper, rub
down the surface of the primer until it is really
smooth. While doing this, the work area should
be thoroughly doused with water, and the
wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water.
Allow to dry before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the fop coat, again building up
the thickness by using several thin layers
of paint. Start spraying at one edge of the
repair area, and then, using a slde-to-side
motion, work until the whole repair area and
about 2 inches of the surrounding original
paintwork Is covered. Remove all masking
material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on
the final coat of paint.
Wlow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwori< renovator, or
a very tine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the naint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic
components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers
loQ bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases
major body panels), rectification of more
serious damage to such items has become
a iriaiier of either entrusting repair work to a
specialist in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair ot such damage by the
Dll" owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It Is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycartwnate.
ABS, polypropylene).
6.1 Undo the screws (arrowed) securing
the wheel arch liner to the front bumper on
ea<^ side
6.3a Pull out the centre p i n s . . .
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed In equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywori<
filler used on metal panels. The filler Is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it with
epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of
finding a suitable paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. Af
one time, the use of a universal paint was not
possible, owing to the complex range of plastics
encountered in body component applications.
Standard paints, generally speaking, will not
bond to plastic or robber satisfactorily However,
it is now possible to obtain a plasCc body parts
finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat. Full
6.5 Undo Hie four screws
securing the bumper to
6.2a Insert a screwdriuer or similar tool
into the wheel arch liner-to-bumper upper
retaining screw hole . . .
6.2b . . . and push the sliding bumper
guide rail fully forwand to its stop (shown
with bumper removed for clarity)
6.3b . . . and remove the four plastic rivets
securing the lower centre of the bumper to
the front subframe
instmctions are normally suppiieo with a kit, but
basically, the method of use is to first apply the
pre-primer to the component concerned, and
allow it to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the
primei is applied, and left to diy for about an
hour before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a pnDperty that standard paint
does not normally possess.
6.4 On diesel engine models, u
two screws each side (arrowed) securing
the engine undertray to the bumper
completely the alignment of the bodyshell,
ana tnis can oniy oe cameo out accurately
by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer, or accident repair
specialist, using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned. It is primarily dangerous as the car
will not hOTdle property, and secondly, uneven
stresses will be imposed on the steering,
suspension and possibly transmission, causing
abnormal wear or complete failure, particularly
to such items as the tyif.is.
5
M a j o r botfy d a r n a g e repair -
Whee serious damage has occurred, or large
areas need renewal due to neglect, it means tiiat
complete new panels v^ll need welding-in, and
this is best left to professionals. If the damage is
due to Impact, It will also be necessaiy to check
6.6 Pull the bumper out at the sides to
disengage it from the sliding guide rails
6
Front b u m p e r removal and refitting
if
Removal
1 Worthing under the wheel arch, undo the
four retaining screws (two on each side)
securing the wheel aroh liner to the bumper
(see illustration).
2 Using a screwdriver or similar tool inserted
into the wheel arch liner-to-bumper upper
retaining screw hole each side, push the
sliding bumper guide rail fuliy forward to its
stop (see Illustrations).
3 Release the four plastic rivets securing
the lower centre of the bumper to the front
subframe (see Illustrations).
4 On diesel engine models, unscrew the
two screws each side securing the engine
undertray to the lower sides of the bumpw
5 Undo the four screws securing the upper
section of the bumper to the crossmember
(see Illustration).
6 With ttie aid of an assistant, pull the bumper
out at the sides to disengage the bumper from
the sliding guide rails then pull the bumper
forward (see illustration).
7 Where applicable, disconnect the foglight,
exterior temperature sensor and parking
distance sensor wiring connectors, and the
headlight washer hose (see illustrations).
Carefully remove the bumper Irom the car.
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that all bumper fasteners
are securely tightened.
7
6.7a Where applicable, disconnect the
foglight...
6.7b . . . and exterior temperatu
wiring connectors
Rear b u m p e r removal and refitting
Saloon and Hatchbacli models
1 Remove the rear light cluster each side and
the rear number plate lights as described in
Chapter 12,
2 Working under the wheel arch, undo the six
retaining screws (three on each side) securing
the wheel arch liner to the bumper (see
lllustration),
3 Undo the retaining screw above the number
plate on each side (see illustration).
4 Open the two locking catches securing
the underside ol the bumper to the support
bracket (see illustration).
5 With the aid of an assistant, pull the bumper
out at the sides to disengage the support
bracket. Disengage the bumper from the peg
and guides on each side and withdraw it from
the support bracket (see il lustrations) ,
6 Detach the wiring harness clip from the
bumper, then remove the bumper from the car
(see lllusb-atlon).
7.2 Undo the screws (arrowed) secunng
the wheel arch liner to the rear bumper on
each Side
9 Remove the tnm panel from the top of the
bumper by pulling it sharply rean/jard (see
illustration).
10 Undo the two upper screws on each side
of the bumper, and the four screws in the
tailgate aperture (see Illustrations).
7.3 Undo the retaining screw (arrowed)
above the number plate on each side
11 Open the two locking catches securing
the underside of the bumper to the support
bracket (see Illustration 7.4).
12 Where fitted, unclip the four parking
sensors.
13 With the aid of an assistant, pull the
Estate models
7 Remove the rear light cluster each side and
the rear number plate lights as described in
Chapter 12.
8 Working under the wheel an;h, undo the six
retainina screws (three on each side) securing
the wheel arch liner to the bumper (see
|e the bumper from the
7.4 Open the two locking catches securing
the underside of the bumper to the support
bracket
and guides (arrowed) on each side
7.5a Pull the bumper out at the Si
disengage the support bracket.,
7.6 Detach the winng harness clip from
the bumper
7.9 Remove the trim panel from the top of
the bumper by pulling it sharply rearward
bumper out at the sides to disengage the
support bracket, and remove the bumper from
14 Refttting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that all bumper fasteners
are securely tightened.
^8
m
Bonnet removal, refitiinq
and adjusfment
4:
Remova/
1 Open the bonnet, and have an assistant
support tt.
2 Using a marker pen or paint, mark around
the hinqe positions on Ihe bonnet.
3 With the aid of ihe assistant, unscrew the
bolts securing the bonnet to the hinges on
both sides
4 Lift off the bonnet taking care not to damage
the vehicle paintwork.
7.10a Undo the two upper screws
(arrowed) on e a ^ side ot the b u m p e r . . .
8 The bonnet should close smoothly and
positively without excessive pressure, (f this is
not the case, adjustment will be required.
9 To adjust the bonnet alignment, loosen the
bonnet-to-hinge mounting bolts, and move
the bonnet on the bolts as required (the bolt
holes in the hinges are enlarged), if necessary,
the scissor-type hinge mounting bolls may
be loosened as well. Access to the hinge
retaining bolts can be gained after removing
the water deflector (see Section 23). To adjust
the bonnet front height in relation to the front
wings, adjustable rubber bump stops are
fitted to the front comers of the bonnet. These
may be screwed in or out as necessary. After
making an adjustment, the bonnet striker must
be adjusted so that the lock spring holds the
bonnet firmly against the robber bump stops.
Loosen the locknut and screw the striker in or
out as necessary.
9
Bonnet reiease c a b l e removal and refitting
T.lOb . . . and the four screws (arrowed) m
the tailgate aperture
move the handle rearward slightly to free the
detent lugs. Lift the release handle off the
mounting bracket (see illustrations).
5 Release the cable from the support clips
and brackets in the engine compartment,
then withdraw the cable through the rubber
grommet and into the passengwcomparlmenL
As an aid to refitting, fie a length of string to
the cable before removing It and leave the
string in position ready tor refitting.
Refitting
B Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tie
fhe string to the end of the cable, and use the
string to pull the cable into position. Ensure
that the cable is routed as noted before
removal, and make sure that the grommet
is correctly seated On completion, refit the
water deflector and the interior trim panels as
described in Sections 23 and 27,
10 B o n n e t loctt s p r i n g removal and refitting
Refitting
5 Align the mariwed) securing tt
door check strap to the body
spring leg from the front cnossmember. slide
the olher end of the spring off the release cable
and remove the spring from the crossmember
(see illusb'atlons).
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal ot removal.
^11 Doorf:.
removal, refitting
and adjustment
Removal
1 Open the door and disconnect the wiring
connector which Is fitted to Ihe front edge of
the door (see illustration).
2 Undo the bolt securing the door check strap
to the vehicle body (see Illustration),
3 Undo the grub screw from the upper and
lower hinge (see Illustration).
4 With the aid of an assistant, lift the door
11.3 Undo the grub screw (arrowed) from
the upper and lower hinge
11.7 Door striker retaining screws
(arrowed)
and disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustrations).
3 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool,
carefully prise the door grab handle plastic
cover away trom the handle at the top.
Disengage the lower retaining lug from
the door panel and remove tho cover (sea
illustrations).
12.3a Prise the door grab handle plastic
cover away from the handle at the top . . .
12.3b . . . then disengage the lowor
retaining lug (arrowed)
upwarcl and off the hinge pins.
Refitting
and
adjustment
5 Refit the door using the reverse of the
removal procedure, then close the door and
check that it fits con-ectly in its aperture, with
equal gaps at all points between it and the
surnnunding bodywork.
6 If adjustment is required, slacken the bolts
securing the hinges to the door and reposition
the door as required. Securely tighten the
bolts after completing the adjustment.
7 The striker alignment should be checked
after either the door or Ihe lock has been
disturtjed. To adjust a striker, slacken its
screws, reposition it and securely tighten fhe
screws (see illustration).
-.12 Door innertrim panel -
•g;^
removal and refitting
Front door
Removal
1 Open the door window.
2 If working on the driver's door, carefully
prise out the control switch assembly
lock operating cable retainer. Slide the outer
cable to the rear and disengage the inner cable
end from the interior handle (see HlustratlonE^.
8 If working on the passenger's door,
disconnect the wiring connector from the
window oontrol switch.
Refitting
9 Refitting is a revereal of removal. If working
on the driver's door, make sure the control
switch wiring is pulled tiinaugh the aperture in
the trim panel as the panel Is fitted.
12.4 Undo thfl two screws (now exposed)
12.5 Undo the three screws (arrowed)
securing the lower edge of Ihe tnm panel
to the door
Rear
door
Removal
5 Undo the three screws securing the lower edge
of the trim panel to the door (see illustration}.
6 Using a wide-bladed screwdriver or removal
12.7a Lift the front edge (arrowed) of the
lock operating cable retainer...
tool, carefully prise the bottom and sides of the
panel away from the door to release the internal
clips (see illustration). Lift the panel upward to
release it from the window aperture.
7 Oncethepanellstree.ieachbehindaid,using
a anall screwdriver lift the front edge of 8ie door
10 Open the door window,
11 On Hatchback and Estate models, using a
plastc wedge or similar tool, carefully prise the
triangular panel away from the door to release
the three retaining clips (see Illustration).
12 Where a manual window regulator is fitted,
locate a cloth rag between the handle and the
trim panel and pull It to one side to release
the spring clip. Remove the handle from the
splined shaft and refit the spring clip to the
handle (see illustrations),
13 Using a plastic wedge or simile tool,
carefully prise the door grab handle plastic
cover away from the handle at the top.
Disengage the lower retaining lug from
the door panel and remove the cover (see
illustrations 12.3a and 12.3b).
14 Undo the two screws now exposed after
removal of the grab handle plastic cover (see
illustration 12.4).
15 Undo the two screws securing the lower edge
of tfie trim panel to the door (see illustration).
12.7b . . . s l i d e the outer cable to the rear
and disengage the Inner cable end from
the Interior handle
12.11 Prise the triangular panel away from
the door to release the retaining dips Hatchback and Estate models
12.12a Where a manual regulator is fitted,
use a cloth rag to release the handle
spring Clip . . .
12.12b . . . r e m o v e the handle from the
splined s h a f t . . .
12.12c . . . and refit the spring d i p to the
handle
12.15 Undo Ihe two screws (arrowed)
securing the lower edge ol the trim panel
t o the door
12.6 Prise the bottom and sides of the
panel away from the door to release the
internal clips
4 Undo the two screws now exposed after
removal of the grab handle plastic cover (see
16 Using a wide-bladed screwdriver or
removal tool, carefully prise the bottom and
sides ot the panel away fram door to release
the internal clips. Uft the panel upward to
release it from the window aperture (see
Illustration).
17 Once fhe panel is free, reach behind, and
using a small screwdriver, lift the front edge of
the door lock operating cable retainer Slide
the outer cable to the rear and disengage the
Inner cable end from the interior handle (see
Illustrations 12.7a and 12.7b).
18 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
window control switch and tweeter speaker,
where applicable.
19 Disconnect the interior lock button
operating rod from the bellcrank. and remove
the panel from the door
Refitting
20 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
7 Refit the fixed part of the handle with the
lock cylinder to the door.
8 Hold the exterior handle and turn the handle
locking screw clockwise to retain the handle.
9 Check the operation of the handle then refit
the blanking cap to the edge of fhe door.
Rear
door
exterior
handle
Removal
12.16 Prise the bottom and sides of the
panel away from door to release the
internal clips
frame and remove the handle from the door
(see Illustration).
Refitting
6 Engage the handle front pivot with the frame
and move the handle track into position.
10 Open the door and CEtfefully prise out the
blanking cap from the rear edge of the door lo
gain access to the handle locking screw (see
Illustrations).
11 Pull the exterior door handle outwards
and hold it in that position. With the exterior
door handle held in the open position, tum the
handle locking screw anti-clockwise until It
reaches its stop (see itluslration). The exterior
door handle should now be fixed in the open
position.
¿13 D o o r h a n d l e s
a n d locH c o m p o n e n t s y
removal and refitting
Door
Interior
liandle
1 The door interior handle is an integral part
of the door inner trim panel and cannot be
Individually removed. If there are any problems
with the interior handle, a new inner trim panel
will be required.
Front
door
exterior
handle
Removal
2 Open the door and carefully pnse out the
blanking cap from tfie rear edge of the door to
gain access to the handle locking screw (see
fllustratlons).
3 Pull the exterior door handle outwards
and hold it in that position. With the exterior
door handle held in the open position, turn
the handle locking screw anti-clockwise until
it reaches its stop. The exterior door handle
should now tie fixed in the open position.
4 Withdraw the fixed part of the handle,
containing the lock cylinder, from the door
fi Slide the exterior door handle to the rear,
disengage the front pivot from the handle
edge o l t h e d o o r . . ,
13.4 Withdraw the fixed part of ttie handle,
containing the lock cylinder, from the door
13.10b . . . to gain access to ttie handle
locking screw (arrowed)
13.5 Slide the handle to t h - .
disengage the front pivot fron^ ihi:
the handle
13.11 Wltti the exterior handle held open,
turn the locking screw anti-clockwise until
It reaches its slop
16 Hold the exterior handle and tum the handle
locking screw clockwise to retain fhe handle.
17 Check the operation of the handle then
refit the blanking cap to the edge of the door
Front
door
lock
cylinder
Removal
18 Remove tiie exterior handle as described
previously in this Section.
19 Unclipthetrimcapandremovethecapfrom
the lock c^lnder housing (see illustration).
20 The lock cylinder body is an integral part
of the housing and no further dismantling is
Refitting
21 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
13.25a Undo ine screws (arrowed) and
Witiidraw the loudspeaker . . .
12 Withdraw the fixed part of Ihe handle from
the door (see illustration).
13 Slide the exterior door handle to the rear,
disengage the front pivot from the handle
frame and remove the handle from the door
(see Illustration 13.5).
13.25b . . . disconnect the wiring
connector and undip the wriring from the
guide (anx>wed)
Refitting
14 Engage the handle front pivot with the
frame and move the handle back into posiHoo.
15 Refit the fixed part of the handle to the
door.
13.2eb . . . putì out the locking bar and
disconnect the wiring connector
13.27 Push out the dips securing the
wiring harness to the door
13.28 Cwefully peel back the protective
plastic sheet and remove the sheet from
the door
Front door exterior
handle
frame
Note: A pop-rivet gun and suitable livets will
be required wtien refitting. Vie rivets should be
approximately 4.8 mm in diameter and 11 mm
in length.
Removal
22 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
23 Remove the exterior handle as descritied
previously in this Section.
24 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
25 Undo the three screws securing the
loudspeaker to the door. Withdraw the
speaker and disconnect the wiring connector
Unclip the wiring fnsm the guide and remove
the speaker (see illustrations).
26 Undo the three screws securing the door
electronics module to the door. Pull out the
locking bar, disconnect the wiring connector
'etherr
andre
27 Reach in through the loudspeaker aperture
and push out the clips securing the wiring
hamess to the door (see Illustration).
28 Carefully peel back the pnateotive plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see illusfa^tion).
29 Using an 8.5 mm drill bit, carefully drill off
the heads and remove ttie two rivets securing
the window rear guide rail to the door, taking
great care not to damage the door panel (see
illustrations).
30 Disengage the top of the guide rail fnsm
13.298 Drill out the upper r i v e t . . .
13.30b . . . then remove the guide raii
through the door aperturs
through the door aperture
the window lifting ciiannel by moving tt
rearward, and remove the guide rail through
the door aperture (see illustrations).
31 Undo the two screws securing the security
cover to the exterior handle frame and door
locl<, and remove the cover through the door
aperture (see illustrations).
32 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the lock operating rod from the lever on the
exterior handle frame (see i Hustration J,
33 Slacken the exterior handle frame front
retaining screw approximately five turns. Slide
the handle frame forward to release the rear
locating lugs, disengage the lock cylinder
operating rod and remove the frame through
the door aperture (see illustrations).
position in the door. Tighten the front retaining
13.32 Release the retaining clip (arrowed)
and disconnect me IOCK operating roa
from the lever
41 Refit the door electronics module,
securely tighten the three retaining screws
and reconnect the wiring connector.
42 Reconnect the wiring to the loudspeaker,
position the speaker in the door and secure
with the three screws,
43 Refit the door inner trim panel as described
in Section 12.
44 Refit the exterior handle as described
previously in this Section, ttien reconnect the
battery negative temiinai.
Refitting
36 Engage the lock operating rod with the
lever on the exterior handle frame and push the
retaining clip back Into position on the rod.
37 Refit the security cover and secure with
ttie two screws.
38 Engage the top of the window guide rail
with the lifting channel and position ttie guide
rail in the door. Secure the guide rail with new
pop rivets (see Iltustration).
39 Refit the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring It Is firmly stuck with no air
bubbles. If the sheet was damaged during
removal It should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the correct size and
shape using the old sheet as a template. The
new sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive.
35 Connect the lock cylinder operating
rod, then place the exterior handle frame m
40 Refit ttie wiring harness clips to the door
ensunng they are finnly attarfied.
45 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tfie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
46 Rwnove the exterior handle as described
previously in this Section.
47 RemovH the door inner tnm panel as
.n 12.
descnbed ir
13.33a Slacken ttie exterior handle
frame frwit retaining screw (arrowed)
13.33b . . . s l i d e the frame forward to
release ttie rear lugs, dis»igage the iock
cylinder operating rod (arrowed)
13.38 Secure ttie window guide rail with
new pop rh^ets
34 Clean out the remains of the old rivets
from inside the door.
Rear
door
extenor
handle
frame
Removal
1 3 A Undo the three screws (atrowed)
securing the \ock to the door
1156 Lffl the locking bar M K i d
13.57a Lower the lock and bring the
interior lock button and rod in through the
hole pnavlded...
in the door and tighten the front retaining
screw securely
51 Refit the rear door lock as described later
in this Section.
52 Retit the door inner trim panel as described
in Section 12,
53 Refit the exterior handle as described
previously in this Section, then reconnect the
battery negative terminal.
Front
13.57b . . . then remove the lock assembly
through the upper door aperture
48 Remove the rear door look as described
later in this Section.
49 Slacken the exterior handle frame tront
retaining screw approximately five turns. Slide
the handle frame forward to release the rear
13.58 If required, disconnect the operating
cables from the lock linkage and bracket
locating lugs and remove the frame through
the door aperture (see Illustrations 13.33a
and 13.33b),
Refitting
50 Place the exterior handle frame in position
door
lock
Removal
54 Remove the front door exterior handle
frame as described earlier in this Section.
55 Undo the three screws securing the lock
to the door (see Illustration),
56 Withdraw the lock from its location, then
lift the locking bar and disconnect the wiring
57 Lower the lock assembly down into the
door, bringing the Interior lock button and nxl
in through the hole pravided. Now remove
the lock assembly through the upper door
aperture (see Illustrations).
58 If required, disconnect the operating
cables from the lock linkage and bracket (see
illustration)
Refitting
59 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Rear
13.62b . . . and lower screw securing the
window roar guide rail to the door
door
lock
Removal - Hatchback models
60 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
61 Carefully peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet trom the door
(see illustration).
62 Undo the upper and lower screws securing
the window rear guide rail to the door (see
illustratlons)63 Pull the rubber window channel out of the
guide rail, then remove the guide rail through
the door aperture (see Illustrations).
64 Undo the screw securing the door lock
operating cable guide to the door, then
disconnect the inner cable from the bellcrank
13.61 Carefully peel baok the protective
plastic sheet and remove the sheet from
the door
13.63a Pull the njbber window channel out
of the guide r a i l . . .
65 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the lock operating rod from the lever on the
exterior handle frame (see Illustration 13.32),
13.63b . . . then remove the guide rali
through the door aperture
13.64 Undo the
le lock operating cable guide to the door
66 Undo the three screws securing the locl<
to ttie door (see illustration 13.55).
67 Withdraw the locl< from its location, then
lift the locking bar and disconnect the wiring
connector (see illustration13.56). Uncllp the
wiring hamess fram the lock tMdy.
68 Remove the lock assembly through the
upper door aperture.
69 If required, disconnect the operating
cables fram the lock linkage and bracket (see
illustration 13.58).
81 Remove the door sealing weatherstrip
from the top and rear side of the door.
82 Lift the fixed window glass upwand and
remove it reanwards fram the door
83 Undo the screw securing ttie window rear
guide rail to ttie door (see illustration 13.62a).
Slide the guide rail down to release it from its
upper locafion, then remove it upwards and
out from the outside of the door
84 Undo the screw securing the door iock
operating cable guide to the door, then
disconnect the inner cable from the bellcrank
(see illustratiwi 13.64).
85 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the lock operating rod from the lever on the
exterior handle frame (see illusti-ation 13.32).
86 Undo the three screws securing the lock
to the door (see illustration 13.55).
87 Wittidraw the lock from its location, then
lift the locking bar and disconnect the wiring
nnector (see illustration 13.56). Uncllp the
wiring harness from the lock body.
88 Remove the lock assembly through the
upper door aperture.
89 If required, disconnect the operating
cables fram the lock linkage and bracket (see
illustration 13.58).
Refitting - Hatchback models
70 If removed, reconnect the operating
cables to the lock linkage and bracket.
71 Insert the lock assembly into the door and
reconnect the wiring connector. Secure the
wiring harness to the lock body.
72 Position the lock assembly i
refit the three retaining screws and tighten
securely.
73 Engage the lock operating rod with the
lever on the exterior handle frame, and push
the retaining clip back into position on the
rod.
74 Connect the lock operating cable to the
bellcrank, then secure the cable guide with
the reigning screw.
75 Locate the guide rail in position in the
door and refit the rubber window channel to
the guide rail. Secure the guide rail with the
upper and lower retaining screws.
76 Refil the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air
bubbles. If the sheet was damaged during
removal it should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the correct size and
shape using the old sheet as a template. The
new sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive.
77 Refitthedoorinnertrimpanelasdescritied
In Section 12.
Removal - Saloon and Estate models
78 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
79 Carefully peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see illustration 13.61).
80 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool, tap
up the window outer waist seal from the door
aperture. Lift the seal up and remove it from
the door (see Illustration)
Refitting - Saloon and Estate models
90 If removed, reconnect the operating
cables to the lock linkage and bracket.
91 Insert the lock assembly into ttie door and
reconnect the wiring connector. Secure the
wiring harness to the lock body.
92 Position the lock assembly in Its location,
refit the three retaining screws and tighten
securely.
93 Engage the lock operating rod with the
lever on the exterior handle frame, and push
the retaining clip back into position on the rod.
94 Connect the lock operating cable to the
bellcrank, then secure the cable guide with
the retaining screw.
95 Locate the window rear guide rail in
position in the door and engage its upper
mounting location. Secure the guide rail with
the retaining screw.
96 Place the fixed window glass in position in
the door
97 Refit the door sealing weathersttip to the
top and rear side of the door.
98 Refit the window outer waist seal to the
13.80 Tap up the window outer waist seal
from the door aperture, ttien lift the seal up
and remove it from the door
door aperture, ensuring that the retaining clips
securely engage.
99 Refit the protective plastic sheet to tiie door
ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air bubbles.
If the sheet was damaged during removal it
should be renewed. This entails cutting a new
sheet to the conect size and shape using the
old sheet as a template. The new sheet can then
be attached to the door with fresh adhesive.
100 Refil the door mnor trim panel as
described in Section 12.
14 Door w i n d o w
regulator a n d glass removal and refitting
Front
door
window
^
3J
reguiator
Note: A pop-rivet gun and suitable rivets will
be required when refitting. The rivets should be
approximately 4.8 mm in diameter and 11 mm
Removal
1 Remove the door inner tnm panel as
described in Section 12,
2 Open ttie window so ttiat it is approximately
50 mm downwarel from the closed position.
Using adhesive tape over fhe top of the door
frame, retain the window in this position,
3 Undo the three screws securing the loudspeaker to the door Withdraw ttie speaker and
disconnect the wiring connector. Unclip the
wiring from the guide and remove the speaker
(see lllusti^tlons 13.25a and 13.25b).
4 Undo the three screws securing the door
electronics module to the door. Pull out the
locking bar, disconnect the wiring connector and
remove the module (see lllusti'ations 13.26a
and 13.26b).
5 Reach In through the loudspeaker aperture
and push out the clips securing the wiring
harness to the door (see illustratkin 13.27).
6 Carehilly peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see illustration 13.28).
7 Using an 8.5 mm drill blL carefully drill off
ttie heads and remove the two rivets securing
the window rear guide rail to the door faking
great care not to damage the door panel (see
Illustrations 13.29a and 13.29b).
8 Disengage the top of the guide rail from the
the heads and remove the six rivets securing the
window regulator to the door taking great care
not to damage the door panel (see illustration).
13 Lift the regulator up to disengage the front
locating dowel, slide it sideways to disengage
the regulator arm Irom the window guide
channel, then remove the regulator through
the door aperture (see illustrations).
14 Clean out the remains of the old rivets
from inside the door.
14.11 Pull out the locking bar and
disconnect the window regulator wiring
connector
window lifting channel by moving it rearward,
and remove the guide rail through the door
aperture (see illustrations 13.30a and 13.30b).
9 Undo the screw secunna the regulator front
lifting arm to the window lift channel (see
Uuslratlon).
14.12 Drill out the rivets (anvwed)
securing the window regulator to the door
10 Unclip the wiring harness support panel
from the base of the door (see Illustration).
11 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the window regulator wirina connector (see
illustration),
12 Using an 3.5 mm drill bit. carefully drill off
Refitting
15 Engage the regulator arm wi«i the window
guide channel, then locate the regulator
dowel In the slot in the door panel. Secure the
regulator with new pop rivets.
16 Reconnect the regulator wiring connector,
then clip the winng harness support panel
back into position.
17 Refit and tighten the screw securing the
regulator front lifting arm lo the window lift
channel.
18 Engage the top of the window guide rail
with the lifting channel and position the guide
rail in the door. Secure the guide rail with new
pop rivets (see illustration 13.38).
IS Refit the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring It is finnly stuck with no air
bubbles. If the sheet was damaged during
removal it should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the correct size and
shape using the oW sheet as a template. TTie
new Sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive.
20 Refit the wiring harness clips to the door
ensuring they are firmly attached.
21 Refit the door electronics module,
securely tighten the three retaining screws
and reconnect the wiring connector,
22 Reconnect the wiring to the loudspeaker,
position the speaker in the door and secure
with the three screws.
23 Remove the adhesive tape used to retain
the window, then refit the door innertrim panel
as described in Section 12,
Rear
door
window
regulator
Note: A pop-rivet gun and suitable rivets will
be required when refitting. Therivetsshould be
approximately 4.8 mm In diameter and 1' mm
in length.
Removal
f4.13c . . . then remove the regulator
through the door aperture
14.27 Position the window so that the
window fixing clip is accessible through
the small opening (arrowed) in the door
24 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
25 Carefully peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see Illustration 13.61).
26 Undo the screw securing the door lock
operating cable guide to the door, then
disconnect the inner cable fn>m the t>ellcrank
(see illustration 13.64).
27 Position the window in the assembly
position so that the window fixing clip is
accessible through the small opening in
the door (see illustration). On models with
manually-operated windows, temporarily
refit the regulator handle to reposition the
window. On models with electric windows.
14.28a Push tho tool through the centre of
the two-part window fixing clip . . .
It will be necessary to remove the window
control switch 1mm the door trim panel and
tempwanly reconnect the switch wiring.
28 Obtain a scribe or similar pointed tool with
a 4.0 mm shaft diameter. Push the tool through
the centre of the two-part window fixing dip to
expand the Internal locking lugs and separate
the clip (see Illustrations). Disengage the
window from the regulator lifting block and
recover the two parts of the fixing clip.
29 Slide the window to the fully closed position.
Using adhesive tape over the top of. the door
frame, retain the window in this position.
30 On models with electric windows, pull out
the locking bar and disconnect the window
regulator wiring connector.
31 Uang an 8.5 mm drill bit. carefuily drill off
the heads and remove the two rivets (electric
windows) or five rivets (manual windows)
securing the window regulator to the door,
taking great care not to damage the door
panel (see illu strati on). On models with
eleoWc windows, also undo the retaining txilt
located just in front of the regulator motor.
32 Push the regulator into the door, turn it
clockwise and manipulate it out through the
door aperture (see illustration).
33 Clean out the remains of the old rivets
from Inside the door.
Refitting
34 Manipulate the regulator back into position
in the door, then secure the regulator with new
pop rivets (see illustration).
35 On models with electric windows, refit the
additional motor retaining bolt and reconnect
the wiring connector.
36 Reposition the regulator in the assembly
position to provide access for the window
fixing clip.
37 Refit tiie two parts of the fixing clip to the
window, remove the tape retaining the window
In position and slide the windowdown and into
engagement with the regulatw lifting block.
38 Connect the lock operating cable to the
beilcrank, then secure the cable guide with
the retaining screw.
39 Refit the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air
bubbles, if the sheet was damaged during
removal it should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the correct size and
shape using ihe old sheet as a template. The
. . . to expand the internal locking
lugs (shown with clip removed)...
14.2SC . . . and separate the clip
14.31 Drill out the rive
securing the window regulator to the door
new sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive.
40 Refit the door Inner trim panel as described
in Section 12.
Ftear
Front
Removal - H a t c h b a c k m o d e l s
door
window
glass
Removal
41 Remove the regulator as previously
described in this Section.
42 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool, tap
up the window outer waist seal from the door
aperture. Lift the seal up and remove it from
the door (see illustration).
43 Tilt the window glass down at the front,
then carefully lift It upwards and remove it
from the outside of the door.
Refitting
44 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Position
the window glass so tiiat It is approximately
50 mm downwand from the closed position.
Using adhesive tape over the top of tiie door
14.32 Manipulate the regulator out
through the door aperture
frame, retain the window in this position during
the remainder of refitting.
door
window
glass
45 Remove ihe door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
46 Carefully peel back fhe protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see Illustration 13.61).
47 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool, tap
up the window outer waist seal from the door
aperture. Lift the seal up and remove it from
the door (see lllusbation 13.80).
48 Undothe upper and lower screws securing
the window rear guide rail to the door (see
Illustrations 13.62a and 13.62b).
49 Pull the rubber window channel out of the
guide rail, then remove the guide rail thnsugh
the door aperture (see illustrations 13.63a
and 13.63b).
50 Release the window glass from the
regulator as described previously in paragraphs 27 and 23.
61 Move ttie window and regulatorto the fully
open position,
52 Pull the njbber window channel out of the
triangular panel at the rear of the door, then
carefully lift the window glass upwards and
remove It from the outside of the door.
Refitting - H a t c h b a c k m o d e l s
53 Position the window regulator in ths
assembly position as described previously in
paragraph 27,
54 Refit the two pans of the fixing clip to the
window, place the window in the door and
slide it down and into engagement with the
regulator lifting block.
55 Refit the rubber window channel to the
triangular panel at the rear of the door.
56 Locate the guide rail in position in the
door and refit the rubber window channel to
the guide rail. Secure the guide rail with the
upper and lower retaining screws.
57 Refit the window outer waist seal to the
door aperture, ensuring that the retaining clips
securely engage.
58 Refit the protective plastic sheet to the door
ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air bubbles.
It the sheet was damaged during removal it
should be renewed. This entails cutting a new
sheet to the conect size and shape using the
Old sheet as a template. The new sheet can then
be attached to the door with f r e ^ adhesive.
59 Refit the door inner trim panel as described
in Section 12.
R e m o v a l - Saloon a n d Estate m o d e l s
60 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
61 Carefully peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see lltusbiition 13.61),
62 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool, tap
up the window outer waist seal from the door
aperture. Lift the seal up and remove it from
the door {see illustration 13.80),
63 Remove the door sealing weatherstrip
from the top and rear side of the door.
64 Lift the fixed window glass Upward and
remove it rean^ards from the door
65 Undo the scrmv securing the window rear
gi;i I • - --•
:i-'->\ (saeillustratio
Slide the guide rail down to release it from its
upper location, then remove it upwards and
out from the outside of the door
66 Release the window glass trom the
regulator as described previously in paragraphs 27 and 28.
67 Move Ihe window and regulator to the fully
open position.
68 Carefully lift the window glass upwanls
and remove it from the outside of the door
Refitting - Saloon a n d Estate m o d e l s
69 Position the window regulator in the
assembly position as described previously in
paragraph 27.
70 Refrt the two parts of the fixing clip to the
window, place the window in the door and
slide It down and into engagement with the
regulator lifting block,
71 Locate the window rear guide rail in
position in the door and engage its upper
mounting location. Secure the guide rail with
the retaining screw.
72 Place the fixed window glass in position in
the door.
73 Refit the door sealing weatherstrip to the
top and mar side of the door.
74 Refit the window outer waist seal to the
door aperture, ensuring that the retaining clips
securely engage,
75 Refit the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air
bubbles. If the sheet was damaged during
removal it should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the con-ect size and
shape using the old sheet as a template. The
new sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive,
76 Refitthedoorinnertrimpanelasdescribed
in Section 12,
15 Rear quarter w i n d o w glass removal and refitting
Refitting
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, using n<
plastic retaining nuts,
16 B o o t lid a n d s u p p o r t s t r u t s removai, refitting
and adjustment
^
'
Removal
1 Open the boot lid, and have an assistant
support it,
2 Disconnect the wiring at the connector,
3 Using a pencil or marker pen, mark anaund
the hinges on the boot lid as a guide for
refitting4 Using a screwdriver prise out the retaining
spring clips and disconnect the upper ends of
the support stmts from the boot lid.
5 Unscrew the mounting bolts then lift the
boot lid trom the hinges.
6 The hinges can be removed if required by
unbolting the hinges from the body.
Refitting a n d a d j u s t m e n t
7 Refitting is a reversal ct removal, but make
sure that the hinges are positioned as noted
on removal and tighten the mounting bolts
securely. With the boot lid closed, check that It
is positioned centrally within the body aperture.
If adjustment is necessary, loosen the boot IW
mounting bolts and/or hinge mounting bolts
and reposition the boot lid, then retighten the
bolts. Check that the striker enters the lock
centrally, and if necessary adjust the striker
position by loosening the mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts on completion.
Support
struts
Removal
Removal
1 Remove the relevant inner trim panels for
access to the rear quarter window glass wrth
reference to Section 27.
2 Unscrew the plastic retaining nuts and
the window glass fmm the body. On
8 Open the boot lid, and have an assistant
support it,
9 Using a screwdriver prise out the retaining
spring clips and disconnect the struts from
the boot lid and body Note which way round
the strut is fitted.
Refitting
10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
17 B o o t lid l o c k c o m p o n e n t s removal and refitting
Lock
J\
-
assembly
Removal
d the retaining legs of the lock
tnm p a n e l . . .
the panel from the
1 Open the boot lid and r
e the trim
panel. Use a forited tool or removal tool to
e out the thirteen retaining clips, and the
centre pins of the four plastic rivets.
2 Spread the retaining legs of the lock trim
17.3 Disconnectthe lock wiring connector
17.4retaining
Undo thescrews
tt
(arrowed)
17.10b . . . f r e e ttie lock cyiinder ftom
Its location and disconnect the wiring
connector
3 the
:1 fro
B lock
(see illustrations),
3 Disconnect the lock wiring connector (see
Illustration).
4 Undo the three lock assembly retaining
screws (see Illustration).
5 Using a small screwdriver, depress the
retaining lugs on each side of the lock
extension (see illustration).
6 Lift the lock assembly up and withdraw it
from the inside (see illustration).
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
that when closed the boot lid lock engages
the lock striker centrally. If necessary loosen
the bolts and adjust the position of the strike,
then tighten the bolts.
Lock
cylinder
Removal
16 Tailgate and support struts removal, refitting
and adjustment
Tailgate
Removal
1 open the tailgate, release the wiring harness
grranmet, then depress the locking catch and
disconnect the tailgate wiring connector on
each side (see illustration).
2 Have an assistant support the tailgate, ttien
disconnect the tops of the support struts
by prising out the spring clips with a small
screwdriver. Lower the struts to the body
3 Drive out the tailgate hinge pins from
outside to inside with a suitable drift, while
the assistant supports the tailgate (see
Illustration). Withdraw the tailgate from the
nodv.
Refitting
4 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, but apply
a little grease to the pivot pins, and check
that when closed the tailgate Is positioned
centrally within the body aperture and flush
with tne surrounding bodywork. If necessary,
adjust the position of the robber supports so
that the tailgate is flush with the surrounding
bodywork. After making adjustments, check
that the sttiker enters the lock centrally and if
necessary loosen the striker bolts to reposition
it. Tighten the bolts on completion.
Support
struts
Removal
5 Open the tailgate and note which way round
the stmts are fitted. Have an assistant support
the tailgate in its open position.
6 Using a small screwdriver, prise the spring
clip from the top of the sttirt and disconnect It
from ttie ball on ihe tailgate (see illusb-ations).
8 Open the boot lid and remove
as previously descnbed.
9 Remove the lock assembly as previously
described.
10 Undo the two retaining screws, free the
lock cylinder from its location and disconnect
the wiring connector (see illustrations).
11 Where applicable, depress the retaining
catch and release the operating cable from
the lock cylinder Disconnect the operating
cable inner end fitting from the look cylinder
and remove ttie cylinder.
Refitting
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
18.3 Drive out the tailgate hinge pins
(arrowed) from outside to inside
7 Similarly prise the spring clip from tiie
bottom ot the strut and disconnect it from the
ball on the body Withdraw fhe start.
Refitting
a Refitting is a reversal of removal.
19 Tailgate locit components removai and refttting
Removal
18.6a Prise the spring clip from the top of
the s t r u t . . .
1 Open the tailgate and
e the trim 3 Carefully prise free the side trim panel on
caps over the upper side trim panel retaining each side to release the three retaining clips
vs. Undo the screw each side (see (see Iltustration).
illustrations).
4 Using a forked tool, or removal tool, extract
2 Unscrew the parcel shelf lifting pins n each the four stud retaining clips at fhe lower edge
sWe.
of the lower tnm panel (see illustration).
Hatchback models
18.6b . . . and disconnect it from the bail
on the tailgate
5 Undo the retaining screws in the centre of
the panel and pull out the centre pins of the
four plastic rivets.
6 Puil the panel away from the tailgate to
release the remaining internal clips and remove
the panel from the tailgate (see Illustration).
7 With the trim panel removed, proceed as
described in Section 17 for the lock assembly
and lock cylinder removal and refitting
procedures.
Estate models
8 Undo the retaining screw located in the
tailgate release handle aperture, and remove
the release handle (see Illustration).
9 Using a small screwdriver, extract the centre
pins and remove the plastic securing rivets
(see illustration).
10 Pull the lower tnm panel away from the
tailgate to release the remaining internal clips
and remove the panel from the tailgate (see
illustration}.
19.1a Remove the trim caps over th»
upper side trim panel retaining screws...
19.3 Prteel»ett»esid» trim panel on aach
side to release the three retaining clips
19.4 Extract Ihe four stud retaining clips at
the lower edge of the lower trim panel
3 Extract the centre pins
the plastic securing rivets
19.6 Pull the panel away from the tailgate
lo release me remaining imemai cups
19.10 Pull the lower trim panel away
trom the tailgate to release ttw remaining
internal clips
20.3 Prise off tlie mirror inteiior trim panel
to release the two retaining clips
20.4 Disconnect the wiring connector from
the
rninw
20.5a Release the tweets- speaker wiring
harness retaining c l i p . . .
20.5b . . . and disconnect the tweeter
wiring connector
20.6 Extract the blanking plug from the
front edge of the door and undo the mirror
lower retaining bolt now exposed
20.7 Undo the two upper retaining bolts
(arrowed) and remove the mirror assembly
from the door
4 Disconnect the wiring connector fram the
minor (see illustration).
5 Release the tweeter speaker wiring hamess
retaining clip fram the interior trim panel, and
disconnect the tweeter wiring connector (see
illustrations). Remove the trim panel.
6 Extract the blanking plug from the front
edge of the door and undo the mirror lower
retaining bolt now exposed (see illustration).
7 Undo the two upper retaining bolts and
remove the mirror assembly from the door
(see illustration).
edge of the glass outwards to release the
internal retaining clips (see illustration),
11 Withdraw the mirror glass and disconnect
the wiring connectors (see illustration).
Refitting
11 With the tiim panel removed, proceed as
described in Sectbn 17 the lock asseml^ and
lock cylinder removal and refitting procedures.
Rentting
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
.
20 Exterior mirrors a n d
associated components removal and refitting
Exterior
mirror
i
Refitting
Removal
8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal.
1 Fully open the door window,
2 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
3 Carefully prise off the minor interior trim
panel to release the two retaining clips (see
illustration)
Mirror
20.10 Prise the outer edge of the glass
outwards to release the mternal retaining
clips
glass
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Carefully
press the min-or glass into the housing until
the centre retainer clips are engaged.
O u t e r cotrer
Removal
13 Remove the mirror glass as described
previously in this Section.
14 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise
the outer cover away from the mirror body
to release the inner locating pin from its hole
Removal
9 Press the Inner edge of the glass inwands so
that the glass is forced out from the centre.
10 Using a plastic wedge, prise the outer
15 Compress the four clips securing the
cover to the mirror body, starting with the
two inner clips, then the two outer clips (see
20.11 Withdraw the min-or glass and
disconnect the wiring connectors
20.14 Pnse the outer cover away from the
mirror body to release the inner locating
pin (arrowed) from its hole
20.15 Compress the four Clips securing
r to the mirror body
motor spindle. To gam access to the motor
spindle, carefully pnse out the trim cover
situated at the rear of the sunroof, Inserl the
Allen key in the motor spindle, and turn to
move the sunroof to the required position. A
suitable Allen key is supplied with the vehicle,
and is attached to the inside ot the trim cover.
23 B o d y e x t e i i o r f i t t i n g s removal and refitting
20.19c . . . and withdraw the cower
illustration). Withdraw the cover trom the
mirror body.
Refitting
21 W i n d s c r e e n a n d
fixed w i n d o w glass general information
16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
17 Remove the mirror from the car as
descriiDed previously in this Section.
18 Remove the rubber seal from the mirror
frame (see Illustration),
19 Using a small screwdriver, carefully
release the base cover from the
and minor body, and withdraw the o 3r(see
illustrations).
reversal of removal.
23.1 Carefully release the twenty tabs and
remove the grille Irom the bumper
The windscreen and rear window glass are
cemented in position with a special adhesive
and require the use of specialist equipment for
their removal and refitting. Renewal of such
fixed glass is considered beyond the scope
of the home mechanic. Owners are strongly
advised to have the work carried out by one
of the many specialist windscreen fitting
specialists.
22 Sunroof general information
A manual or electric sunnjof was offered as
an optional extra on most models, and is fitted
as standard equipment on some models.
Due to the complexity of the sunroof
mechanism, considerable expertise is
needed to repair, renew or adjust the sunroof
components successfully. Removal ot the roof
first requires the headlining to be removed,
which is a complex and tedious operation in
itself, and not a task to be undertaken lightly
Therefore, any problems with the sunroof
should be refened to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.
On models with an electric sunnaof, if the
sunroof motor fails to operate, first check the
relevant fuse. If the fault cannot be traced
and rectified, the sunroof can be opened and
closed manually using an Allen key to turn the
^x,
^
Radiator
grilie
1 Remove the front bumper as described in
Section 6, Carefully release the twenty tabs
and remove the grille from the bumper (see
illustration),
2 Refit the grille to the bumper ensunng it is
securely held by the retaining tabs, then refit
the front bumper as described in Section 6,
Wlieel arcli
and body
liners
under-panels
3 The various plastic covers fitted to the
underside of the vehicle are secured in positron
by a mixture of screws, nuts and retaining clips,
and removal will be fairly obvious on inspection.
Work methodically around the liner/panel,
removing its retaining screws and rele^lng its
retaining clips until it is free to be removed from_
the underside of the vehicie. Most clips used on
the vehicle, with the exception of the fasteners
which are used to secure the wheel arch liners,
are simply phsed out of position. The wheel
arch liner clips are released by tapping their
centre pins thraugh the clip, and then removing
the outer section of the clip; new clips will be
requited on refitting if the centre pins are not
recovered,
4 When refitting, renew any retaining clips
that may have been broken on removal, and
ensure that the panel is securely retained
by all the relevant clips, nuts and screws,
Vauxhall/Opel also recommend that plastic
nuts (where used) are renewed, regareiless ot
their apparent condition, whenever they are
disturbed,
Undertray
5 On diesel engine models an undertray
is fitted beneath the engine/transmission
assembly. The undertray is secured to the
fnont subframe and undertjody with a selection
of belts and screws.
Water
deflector
6 Remove the windscreen wiper arms as
described In Chapter 12.
7 Open the bonnet, and pull up the rubber
weatherseal from the flange at the rear of the
engine compartment (see illustration)
8 Carefully prise free the water deflector from
the base of the windscreen to release the
retaining clips, and remove the water deflector
Irom the car (see Illustration).
9 Refit the water deflector using a reversal of
the removal procedure. Refit the wiper arms
as described in Chapter 12.
Body
trim
strips
and
badges
10 The vanous body trim strips and badges
are held in positton with a special adhesive
tape. Removal requires the trim/badge to be
heated, to soften the adhesive, and then cut
away from the surface. Due to the high risi< of
damage to the vehicle's paintwori< during this
operation, it Is recommended that this task
Should be entrusted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer
24 Seats removal and refitting
^
jt;
A
Warning: The front seats are
equipped with seat tielt tensioners,
and side airbags may be built into
the outer sides of the seats. The seat belt
tensioners and side airbags may cause injury
if triggered accidentally. If the tensioner has
been triggered due to a sudden impact or
accident, the unit must be renewed, as It
caniKt be reset. If a seat is to be disposed
of, (he tensioner must be triggered before
the seat Is removed from the vehicle. Due
to safety considerations, tensioner renewal
or seat disposal must be entrusted to a
Vauxhall/Opel dealer. Where side airbags
are fitted, refer to Chapter 12 for the
prec
Ì which should be observed
when dealing with an airt}ag system.
1 Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter) Wait 2 minutes for the
23.7 Pull up the rubber weatherseal
from the flange at the rear of the engine
capacitors to discharge, before working on
the seat electrics.
Front
seat
removal
2 Depress the two tabs and remove the front
seat headrest.
3 Slide the seat adjustment fijilyfonward.
4 Unclip the cover over the seat belt
mounting, then undo the seat belt retaining
bolt (see Illustration).
5 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect the
wiring connector from the underside of the
seat, at the rear (see illusb^tlon).
6 Slacken and remove the seat retaining
bolts from the rear of the guide rails (see
illustration).
7 Pull the seat backwanis to disengage the
guide rail front mounting lugs from the floor.
The seat can now be lifted out of the vehicle.
Front
seat
refitting
a Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
a) Remove all traces of old thread-locking
compound from the threads of the seat
retaining bolts, and clean the threaded
holes In the vehicle floor, ideally by
running a tap of the correct size and pitch
down tttem.
b) Apply a suitable thread-locking
compound to the threads of the seat
bolts. Refit the bolts, and tighten them to
the specified torque setting.
c) Reconnect the seat wiring connector
making sure it has located securely, then
reconnect the tmttery negative terminal.
24.5 Pull out the locking bar and
disconnect the vriring cor
underside of the seat
2 3 3 Prise free the water deflector from
the base of the windscreen lo release the
retaining clips
Rear
seat
removal
Cushion
9 Pull the front of the rear seat cushion
upwards to disengage the front mountings.
Where applicable, disconnect the wiring for
the seat heater
10 On Saloon and Hatchback modeis, lift the
cushion out of the rear mountings and remove
it from the car.
11 On Estate models, push the cushion and
move It to the left to disengage the left-hand
rear mounting, then move it to the right to
disengage the right-hand rear mounting.
Remove the cushion trom the car.
Baclo^st
12 Remove the rear seat cushion as
described previously in this Section.
13 Pull the upper portion of the backrest
side padding fonward to disengage the upper
mounting, tìien lift it up to disengage the lower
hook (see illustrations). Remove the side
padding from the car.
14 Unscrew tiie retaining nut and remove the
centre seat belt buckle.
15 Fold the backrest forward then, using
a screwdriver, press the outer hinge pin
locking collar in, to free the hinge pin, while
at the same time pulling upwarel to release tiie
16 Fold the backrost upward, then pull the
hinge pin out of the centre support (left-hand
side), or pull the backrest off the hinge pin
(right-hand side) (see Illustration). Remove
the backrest from the vehicle
24.6 Slacken and remove the se
retaining bolts (amjwed) from the n
the guide rails
''•\ ^
Zi
24.13a Pull the upper portion of tha
backrvBt side padding fonward t o
^~
m
\
26 Seat belt c o m p o n e n t s removal and refitting
A
Warning: The front seats (and
on cartain models, ttie outer
rear seats)
are fitted
witti
pyrotectinic
seat belt tensioners which
are triggered
by the alrbag
control
system. Before removing a seat belt,
disconnect the battery and wait at least
2 minutes to allow the system capacitors
to discharge.
Front
beit
and
reel
Removal
24.15 Press the outer hinge pin lockirvg
collar in, while at the same time pulling
upward to release the backrest
Rear
seat
refitting
17 Refitting is a reverse of the removal pro" 2 5 Seat belt t e n s i o n i n g
mechanism general information
All models covered in this manual are fitted
With a front seat belt pyrotechnic tensioner
system- On certain models, this system is
also fitted to the outer rear seat belts. The
system is designed to instantaneously take
up any slack in the seat belt in the case of a
sudden frontal impact, therefore reducing the
possibility of injury to the front seat occupants.
Each front seat is fitted with its own system,
the components of which are mounted on the
it frame.
26.3 Undo the front seat b ^ upper
mounting boK
24.16 Pull the backrest o » the hinge pin
(arrowed) ~ right-hand backrest shown
The seat beit tensioner is triggered by a
frontal impact causing a deceleration of six
times the force of gravity or greater. Lesser
impacts, including Impacts from behind, will
not tngger the system.
When the system is triggered, a
pretensioned spring draws back the seat
belt via a cable which acts on the seat belt
stalk. The cable can move by up to 80.0 mm,
which therefore reduces the slack in the seat
belt around the shoulders and waist ol the
occupant by a similar amount.
There is a risk ot injury if the system is
triggered inadvertently when working on
the vehicle, and it is therefore strongly
recommended that any work involving the
seat belt tensioner system is entrusted to a
Vauxhali/Opel dealer Refer to the warning
given at the beginning of Section 24 before
itemplating any work on the front seats.
1 Unclip the cover over the seat belt mounting
on the front seat, then undo Ihe seat belt
retaining bolt (see illustration 24.4),
2 Remove the B-pillar inner trim panel and sill
trim panel as deschtied in Section 27.
3 Undo the seat belt upper mounting boh
(see Illustration),
4 Prise the cover from the lower outside of
the B-pillar tot access to the front ssat belt
reel mounting nut (see illustrations). Using
a 13 mm socket, 65 mm deep on the inside,
unscrew the nut taking care not to drop it
inside the B-pillar Note that an extension pin
is provided to enable the nut to be removed
safely.
5 With the nut removed, remove the reel from
the inside of the pillar
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removai, but tighten
the mounting boits to the specified torejue.
Front belt
stailt
and
tensioner
Removal
7 Remove the front seat as descnbed in
Section 24,
8 From underneath the seat, slide out the
wiring connector locking bar and disconnect
the wiring connector (see illustrations),
Uncllp the wiring harness from the seat,
9 Undo the retaining bolt and withdraw the
tensioner from the seat (see illustration),
10 Release the cable retaining clip and
the tensioner (see illustration).
26.4b . . . for access to the front seat belt
reel mounting nut (arrowed)
2&8a Slide out the wiring connector
locking l i a r . . .
(arrowed) and
Refitting
11 Refitting is a reverse o! the removal
procedure, rroting the following points:
aJ Remove all traces of old thread-locking
compound from the thread of the
tensioner retaining bolt, and clean the
threaded hole in the seat, ideally by
running a tap of the correct size and pitch
down it.
b) Apply a suitable thread-locking
compound to the thread of the tensioner
retaining bolt. Refit the bolt, and tighten it
to the specified torque setting.
Rear
outer
ttelt
and
reel
Removal
12 Remove the rear seal cushion as
described in Section 24.
13 Remove the luggage compartment upper
side trim and sill rear trim panel
in Section 27.
26.eb . . . and disconnect the seat belt
tensioner wiring connector
26.14 Undo the rear seat belt lower
mounting bolt (arrowed)
14 Undo the seat belt lower mounting bolt
(see itlustratlon).
15 Undo the seat belt reel mounting boif and
remove the reel and bell from the car (see
illusta^ation).
Refitting
16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torejue.
Rear
centre
belt
and
reel
17 The inertia reel for the centre rear seat
belt is located internally within the rear seat
backrest. To gain access, the backrest must
be removed and completely dismantled. This
Is a complex operation and considerable
expertise is needed to remove and refit the
seat upholstery and internal components
without damage. Therefore, any problems
with the centre seat belt and reel should be
refened to a Vauxhall/Opel (
26.15 Undo the rear seat belt reel
mounting bolt (arrowed) and remove the
real and belt from the car
Rear
belt
stalk
and
tensioner
Removal
18 Remove the rear seat cushion as
described in Section 24.
19 On models without seal belt tensioners,
undo the retaining nut and remove the relevant
stalk from the floor (see illustration).
20 On models with seat belt tensioners,
slide out the winng connector locking bar and
disconnect the wiring connector.
21 Undo the retaining nut and remove the
relevant tensioner from the floor. Note that anew retaining nut will be required for refitting.
Refitting
22 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
iighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque.
27 Interior t r i m removal and refitting
1 The interior trim panels are secured by a
combination of clips and screws. Removal and
refitting is generally self-explanatory, noting
that it may be necessary to remove or loosen
surrounding panels to allow a particular panel
to be removed. The following paragraphs
describe the general removal and refilling
details of the major panels.
26.19 Undo tfie retaining nut (arrowed) and
remove the relevant stalk from the floor
27.2 Pull off the front door weather strip In
tne vicinrty of tne A-piiiar b i m panel
A-pillar
trim
panel
2 Pull oft the front door weather strip in
the vicinity of the A-pillar trim panel (see
27.3 Pull out the alrbag positioning clip
from ttie trim panel
remove the footwell panel
3 On models equipped with curtain airbags,
pull out the airbag positioning clip from the
trim panel (see Illustration).
4 Pull the tnm panel away from the A-pillar
andr«
it fram the ci
S Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Front footwell
side trim
panel
S Open thefmnt door and pull the weatherstrip
away from the side trim panel and side sill
panel.
7 Undo the two screws securing the foolwell
side trim panel to the body (see Illustration).
8 Pull the overlapping side sill panel from
its location at the trant, then disengage and
remove the footwell panel (see Illustration).
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
B-pillar
upper
trim
panel
10 Open the frant and rear door--, .iiid pull the
weatherstrip away fram ii
27.4 Pull the trim panel away from the
A-plHar and remove It from the car
27.12 Prise out the plastic cover at the top
of tho B-plllar upper trim panel
11 Unclip the cover over the seat belt
mounting on tne ironi seat, men undo the seal
belt retaining bolt (see Illustration 24.4),
12 Prise out the plastic cover at the top of the
pane! (see Illustration).
13 Prise the trim panel away from the B-pillar
at the top (see IIlustration).
14 Disengage the lower end ot the panel fram
fhe B-pillar lower trim panel, feed the seat belt
through the opening and remove the panel
from the car (see illustration).
15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
27.7 Undo the two screws (anrowad)
securing the footwell side trim panel to the
body
27.13 Prise the trim panel away from the
B-pJllar at the top
19 Uncllp the bottom of the panel from the
B-pillar and remove the pane! from the car.
20 Reftting is a reversal of removal.
Side
sill inner
trim
panel
21 Open the front and rear doors and pull the
weatherstrip away from the B-pillar and the
lower part of the door apertures.
22 Remove the rear seat cushion as
described in Section 24.
23 Pull the upper portion of the seat backrest
side padding fomvana to disengage the upper
mounting, then lift it up to disengage the lower
B'pillar
lower trim
panel
hook (see illustrations 24,13a and 24.13b).
16 Open the front and rear doors and pull the Remove the side padding from the car
weatherstrip away from ttie B-pillar.
24 Spread the sides of the side sill inner trim
17 Pull the overlapping side sill panel from its panel outwanj and reiease it from the B-piliar
location to allow the B-pillar lower trim to be iower trim panel (see Illustration).
removed.
25 Starting at the front and working
18 Unclip the B-pillar lower trim panel from rearwards, unclip ihe panel from the sill and
the upper panel at the top (see lltuttratlon).
remove the panel from the car.
i; ,. n,,^
27.14 Disengage the lower end of the
panel from ttie B-pillar lower trim panel
and feed the seat belt through the opening
27.18 Unclip the B-pillar lower trim panel
from the upper panel at the top
27.24 Spread the sides of the side sni
inner trim panel outward and release It
from Uie B-plllar lower trim panel
27.30 Pult the tailgate aperture trim panel
s the internal retainmg clips
and remove the panel from the ear
27.39 Carefully unclip the upper and lower
covef- strips from the side trim panel
26 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Luggage
compartment
lower side trim
panel
Saloon a n d H a t c h b a c k m o d e l s
27 Fold the rear seat baciwed) with pliers, push in the lugs at
the e n d . . .
7.39b . . . and release one side of the unit
at a time from the tailgate
7.40 V m h d w the light unit from the tailgate
and disconnect tiie wiring connector
each side to release ttie ttiree retaining clips
(see illustration).
36 Using aforked tool, or removal tool, extract
the four stud retaining clips at tlie lower edge
of the lower trim panel (see illustration).
37 Undo the retaining screws in ttie centre of
the panel and pull out the centre pins of the
four plastic rivets.
38 Pull the panel away from the tailgate to
release the remaining intemal clips and remove
the panel from the tailgate (see illustration).
39 Working on one side of the light unit at a
time, compress the locking clip with pliers,
push in the lugs at the end and release one side
of the unit ftom ttie tailgate (see Ulusti^tions).
Repeat this procedure on the other side.
40 Once the light unit is free, withdraw it
from the tailgate and disconnect the wiring
tailgate to release the internal retaining clips
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam
is oniy possible using optica! beam-setting
equipment, and this work should therefore
be carried out by a VauxhalfOpel dealer or
suitably-equipped woil^shop.
2 For reference, the headlights can be
adjusted using the adjuster assemblies fitted
to the top of each light unit. The inner adjuster,
altera the vertical position of the beam. The
outer adjuster alters the horizontal aim of the
beam.
3 Most models have an electncally-operated
headlight beam adjustment system, controlled
via a switch in the facia. The recommended
settings are as follows.
0 Front seat(sj occupied
7 Ali seats occupied
2 All seats occupied, and load In luggage
compadment
3 Driver's seat occupied and load in the
luggage compartment
Note: When adjusting the headlight aim,
that the switch Is set to position 0.
7.45 Pull the upper trim panel away from
the tailgate to release the intemal retaining
clips
7.47 Release ttie retaining catches
(anowed) and remove the high-level
stop-light from tiie b i m panel
46 Disconnect the high-level stop-light wiring
connector.
47 Release the three retaining catches and
remove the high-level stop-light from the
tailgate upper trim pan^ (see illustration).
48 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
8
Headiigtit b e a m a l i g n m e n t -
^
g ^ e r a i informaiion
^
41 Reconnect the wiring connector then push
the light unit into the tailgate until it locks in
position.
Estate models
42 Open the tailgate, undo the retaining
screw located In the release handle aperture,
and remove the release handle (see lllush^tion 5.63).
43 Using a small screwdriver, extract the
centre pins and remove the plastic securing
rivets (see Illustration 5.64).
44 Pull the lower trim panel away from the
tailgate to release the remaining internal clips
and remove the panel from the tailgate (see
Illustration 5.65).
45 Pull the upper trim panel away from the
9.3a Undo the two lower retaining si
(arrowed) , . .
5K
I n s t r u m e n t panel ^
iv
removal and refitting
^
gj^
Note: The instrument panel is a complete
sealed assembly, and no dismantling of the
Instrument panel is possible.
9.4 Disengage the top of Q\e panel from
tho facia and disconnect the wiring
connector
9.3b . . . then pull the Instrument panel
away from the facia at the bottom
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11 Cigarette l i g h t e r removai and refitting
10 I n f o r m a t i o n display unit - removal and refitting
^
Removai
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer !o Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
2 Remove the steering column shrouds as
described in Chapter 11, Section 29.
3 Undo the two lower retaining screws, then
pull the panel away from the facia at the
bottom (see illustrations).
4 Disengage the top of the panel from the facia,
disconnect the wiring connector and remove
the panel fmm the car (see illustration).
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chaptet^.
2 Remove the centre vent housmg as
described in Chapters.
3 Undo the four screws and remove the
Information display unit from the centre vent
housing (see illustration).
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Proceed as described in Section 6. paragraphs 10 to 15.
12 H o r n removal and refitting.
Removai
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then )ack up
the front of the car and support it securely
on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
support).
2 Working under the bumper on the left-hand
side, undo the retaining nut/bolt and
remove the horn, disconnecting its wiring
connector as they become accessible (sae
illustration).
Refitting
3 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
13 W i p e r a r m removai and refitting
10,3 Undo the screws (amswed) and
remove the Information display unit from
the centre vent housing
Removal
1 operate the wiper motcw, then switch it off
so that the wiper arm returns to the at-rest
position.
Stick a piece of masking tape
along the edge of the wiper
blade, to use as an alignment
aid on refrtting.
-
13,2a Unclip the windscreen wiper arm
spindle nut cover . . .
13.2b . . . ttien slacken and rt
spindle nut and washer
2 Unclip the wiper arm spindle nut cover
(windscreen wiper arm), or pivot the cover
up (tailgate wiper arm), then slacken and
remove the spindle nut and washer (see
illustrations).
3 Using a suitable puller, free the wiper arm
from the spindle and remove the arm (see
Illustration). Note: If both windscreen wiper
arms are to be removed at the same time,
mark them lor identification. The anris are not
Interchangeable: the passenger-side wiper
arm is longer than the driver's-side arm, and
its shaft is also cranked slightly.
RBfitting
4 Errsure that the wiper arm and spindle
splines are clean and dry, then refit the arm to
the spindle, aligning the wiper blade with the
tape fitted on removal. Refit the spindle nut,
tightening it securely, and clip the nut cover
back in position.
r 14 WindscfBen w i p e r
m o t o r a n d linkage removal and refitting
Remova/
1 Disconnect the battery negative terrr
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in
Reference Chapter),
2 Remove the wiper amis as described ir
Sectic 113.
3 Remove the water deflector as described in
Chapter 11, Section 23,
4 Pull cut the locking bar and disconnect the
wiring connector from the wiper motor (see
Illustrations).
5 Undo the three retaining bolts, and remove
the wiper motor and linkage assembly out
from the vehicle (see illustrations).
6 If necessary, mark the relative positions of
the motor shaft and linkage arm, then unscrew
the retaining nut fmm the motor spindle. Free
the wioer linkage from the spindle, then
remove the three motor retaining bolts, and
separate the motor and linkage (see illustration).
Refitting
7 Where necessary, assemble the motor
and linkage, and securely tighten the motor
retaining bolts. Locale the linkage arm on the
motor spindle, aligning the marks made prior
to removal, and securely tighten its retaining
nut.
8 Manoeuvre the motor assembly back into
position in the vehicle. Refit ffie retaining bolts,
and tighten them securely
14.5a Undo thethree retaining bolts
(arrowed)...
13.3 Using a suitable puller, free the wiper
arm from ttie spindle
9 Reconnect the wiper motor wiring
connector.
10 Refit the water deflector as described in
Chapter 11.
11 Install both the wiper amis as described
in Section 13, and reconnect the battery
negative terminal.
, 15 Tailgate w i p e r m o t o r removai and refitting
2 Unscrew the parcel shelf lifting pins on each
side (see illustratkm 7.34).
3 Carefully prise free the side trim panel on
each side to release the three retaining clips
(sea illustration 7.35).
4 Using a forked tool, or removal tool, extract
the four stud retaining clips at the lower edge
of the lower trim panel (see illustration 7.36).
5 Undo the retaining screws in the centre of
the panel and pull out the centre pins of the
four plastic rivets.
6 Pull the panel away from the tailgate to
release the remaining internal clips and
remove the panel from the tailgate (see illustration 7.38).
Estate m o d e l s
7 Open the tailgate, undo the retaining
screw located in the release handle aperture,
and remove the release handle (see Illustration 5.63).
8 Using a small screwdriver, extract Ihe centre
pins and remove the plastic securing rivets
(see Illustration 5.64).
9 Pull the lower trim panel away from the
tailgate to release the remaining internal clips
and remove the panel from the tailgate (see
illustration 5.65).
All m o d e l s
Removal
Hatchbaclt m o d e l s
1 Open the tailgate and remove the trin
caps over the upper side trim panel retaining
screws. Undo the screw each side (see lllus
trations 7.33a and 7.33b).
^^^^^^^^^
14.4a Pull out the locking b a r . . .
10 Remove the wiper arm as described in
Section tal l Disconnect the wiring connector, then
slacken and remove the wiper motor mounting
bolts and remove the wiper motor (see
illustrations).
^^^^^^^^^^^^';
14.4b . . . a n d disconnect tho wiring
connector from the wiper motor
14.6 Wiper motor retaining bolts (arrowed)
1S.11b . . . then slacken and r ^ o v e
the tailgate wiper motor mounting bolts
(arrowed)
15.11i
Refitting
12 Refitting is the reverse of removal,
ensunng the wiper motor retaining bolts are
securely tightened.
16 W i n d s c r e e n / t a i l g a t e w a s h e r
system components remova) and refitting
Wastier
system
^
^
reservoir
1 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
2 If necessary, partially detach the wheel arch
liner,
3 From within the engine comparlment, unclip
and remove the filler neck for the windscreen
washer resen/oir.
4 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
washer pump(s) and washer fluid level sensor,
as applicable.
5 Undo the two upper nuts, and one lower
nut, and remove the reservoir frcim under the
(see Illustrations).
6 Refitting is the
e of removal, ensuring
that the washer hose(s). ire securely connected.
Waslier
pump
7 Remove the washer reservoir •s described
at>ove.
8 Tip out the contents of the reservoir, then
carefully ease the pump out frcim the reservoir
and recover its sealing grommet.
9 Refitting is the reverse of removal, using a
new sealing grommet if the original one shows
ir deterioration.
Windscreen
wasfier
jets
10 Remove the water deflector as described
in Chapter 11, Section 23.
11 Depress the retaining clip, then carefully
prise the nozzle from the water deflector panel
(see illustration).
12 Disconnect the nozzle from its fluid hose,
and remove it from the vehicle.
13 On refitting, securely connect the nozzle
to the hose, and clip it into position in the
water deflector panel. Refit tha water deflector
panel, then check the operation of the jet.
If necessary, adjust the nozzle using a pin,
aiming the spray to a point slightly aljove the
centre of the swept area.
Taiigate
wasfier
jet
14 Carefully prise the washer jet out of the
radio aerial base and disconnect if from its
supply pipe (see Illustration)- Whilst the jet
is removed, tie a piece of string lo the supply
pipe, to ensure that it does not fall back into
the tailgate.
15 When refitting, ensure that the jet is clipped
securely in position. Check the operation of
the jet. If necessary, adjust the nozzle using a
pin, aiming the spray to a point slightly atiove
the centre of the swept a
17 R a d i o / C D piayer removai and refitting
Note: The following removal and refitting
procedure is for the range of radio/CD
units which Vauxhall/Opel fit as standard
equipment. Removal and refitting procedures of non-standard units may differ
slightly
Removai
1 All the radio/CD players fitted by Vauxhail
have DIN standanl fixings. Two special tools,
obtainable from most car accessory shops,
are required for removal. Altematively, suitable
tools can be fabricated from 3 mm diameter
wire, such as welding rc>d.
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
3 Insert the tools into the holes on the front
of the unit, and push them until they snap into
place. The radio/CD player can then be slid
out of the facia (see illustration).
16.11 Depress the retaining clip, then
carefully prise the washer nozzle from the
water deflector panel
17.3 Using welding rod to compress the
clips (arrowed) on the radio/CD player
4 Disconnect ttie wiring and aeriai connections
at the rear of the unit, and remove the unit
from the car.
Reming
5 To refit the radio/CD player, reconnect the
wiring and simply push the unit into the facia
until the retaining lugs snap into place. On
completion, reconnect the battery and enter
Bie radio security code, where applicable.
vr18 S p e a k e r s removal and refitting
Front door small
^
speaker
1 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Chapter 11. Section 12.
2 Carefully prise off the door mirror interior
trim panel to release the two retaining clips
(see illustration).
3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
mirror (see Illustration).
4 Release the speaker wiring harness
retaining clip from the interior trim panel,
and disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustrations). Remove the trim panel.
5 Remove the rubber pad from the panel
base, then undo the three screws and remove
the speaker from the panel (see illustration).
6 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Rear
door
small
speaker
7 Remove the rear door inner trim panel as
described in Gh^ter 11, Sectkin 12.
8 Unclip the oontrol switch panel from the
door trim panel.
9 Unclip the speaker from the switch panel.
10 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
D o o r large
speaker
11 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Chapter 11, Section 12.
12 Undo the retaining screws, then free the
speaker from the door (see illustration).
Disconnect the wiring connectors and remove
the speaker
13 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
19 Radio a e r i a l i information
1 Where required, the aerial mast can be
unscrewed from the base unit.
2 Removal of the base unit entails removal
of the headlining, which is a complicated
operation, considered to be outside the scope
of this manual. Therefore, any problems
relating to the aerial base unit or wiring should
be entrusted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.
20 A n t i - t h e f t alarm s y s t e m general information
Note: This information is applicable only to the
anti-theft a/arm sysfem fitted by Vauxhall/Opel
as standard equipment.
1 Most models in the range are fitted with an
anti-theft alann system as standand equipment.
The alann is automafically amned and disarmed
when the deadlocks are operated using the
driver's door lock or remote control key. The
alami has switdies on all the doors (including
the tailgate), the bonnet, the radio/CD player
and fhe ignition and starter circuits. If the
tailgate, bonnet or any of the doors are opened
whilst the alarm is set. the alarm horn will
sound and the hazarcl warning ligfits will flash.
The alarm also has an immobiliser function
which makes fhe ignition and starter circuits
i n o p ^ t ^ whilst the alarm is triggered.
2 The alarm system performs a self-test
every time it is switched on; this test takes
approximately 10 seconds. During the
self-test, the LED (light emitting diode) in the
hazand warning light switch will come on. If the
LED flashes, then either the tailgate, bonnet or
one of the doors is open, or there is a fault in
the cinDult. After the Initial 10 second period,
the LED will flash to Indicate that the alami is
switched on. On unlocking the driver's door
lock, the LED will illuminate for approximately
1 second, then go out, indicating that the
alann has been switched off.
3 With the alarm set, if the tailgate is
unlocked, the tailgate switch sensing will
automatically be switched off, but the door
and bonnet switches will stili be active. Once
the tailgate is shut and locked again, the
tailgate switch sensing will be switched back
on after approximately 10 seconds.
4 Should the alarm system develop a fault,
the vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer for examination.
in the event of a break in the main electrical
supply The steenng wheel and facia airbags
are activated by a 'g' sensor (deceleration
sensor), and controlled by an electronic control
unit located under the centre console. The side
airbags and curtain airbags are activated by
severe side impact and operate independently
of the main system. A separate electrical supply,
conbx>l unit and sensor is provided for the side/
curtain airtnags on each side of the car.
23.2a Insert screwdrivers into the holes at
the rear of the steering wheel (shown with
steering wheel removed).. .
I21
H e a t e d seat c o m p o n e n t s -
p
genera! information
On models with heated seats, a heater
mat is fitted to both the seat bacl< and seat
cushion. Renewal of either heater mat involves
peeling back the upholstery, removing the old
mat, sticking the new mat in position and then
refitting the upholstery. Note that upholstery
removal and refitting requires considerable
skili and experience if it is to be carried out
successfully, and is therefore best entmsted to
your Vauxhall/Opel dealer In practice, it will be
very difficult for the home mechanic lo carry
out the job without mining the upholstery.
; 2 2 Airbag system general information
and precautions
General
information
A driver's airbag is fitted as standard
equipment on all models. The airiDag is fitted
in the steering wheel centre pad. Additionally,
a passenger's airt^ag located in the facia, side
airbags located In the front seats, and curtain
airiaags located in the headlining are optionally
Ttie system is armeo oniy when Ihe Ignition
is switched on, however, a reserve power
source maintains a power supply to the system
The airbags are inflated by a gas generator,
which forces the bag out from its location in
the steering wheel, facia, seat back frame, or
headlining.
Precautions
Warning: Tho folio wingprecau thns
must be observed when working
' on vehicles equipped with an
airbag system, to prevent the possibility of
personal injury.
A
General precautions
The foiiowing precautions must be
observed when carrying out work on a vehicle
equipped with an airbag:
a) Do not disconnect the battery with the
engine mnning.
b) Before carrying out any work in the
vicinity of the airbag. removal af any of the
airbag components, or any welding work
on the vehicle, de-activate the system as
descnbed in the following sub-Section.
c) Do not attempt to test any of the airbag
system circuits using test meters or any
other test equipment
d) If the airbag warning light comes on,
or any fault in the system is suspected,
consult a Vauxhall/Opel dealer without
delay Do not attempt to carry out fault
diagnosis, or any dismantling of the
components.
23.2b . . . to depress the alrbag Intemal
spring retainers (arrowed - shown with
airbag removed)
Activation
of alrbag
system
To activate the system on completion of any
work, proceed as follows:
a) Ensure that there are no occupants in
the vehicle, and that there are no loose
objects around the vicinity ot the steering
wheel. Close the vehicle doors and
windows.
b) Ensure that the ignition is switched off
then reconnect the tiattery negative
terminal.
c) Open the driver's door and switch on the
ignition, without reaching in front of the
steering wheel. Check that the airtiag
warning light illuminates bnefly then
extinguishes.
dj Switch off the ignition
ej If the airbag warning light does not
operate as described in paragraph c),
consult a Vauxhall/Opei dealer before
driving tiie vehicle.
Precautions when handling an airbag
a) Transport the airtyag by itself, bag upward,
b} Do not put your arms around the airbag.
c) Carry the airbag close to the body, bag
outward.
d) Do not drop the alrbag or expose it to
impacts.
e) Do not attempt to dismantle the airfDsg
unit
fj Do not connect any form of electrical
equipment to any part of the airbag
circuit
Precautions when storing an airt>ag
4
before carrying out any work on the airbag
components or surrounding area:
a; Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the airbag warning light on
the instrument panel. The light should
illuminate when the ignition is switched
on, then extinguish.
b) Switch off the ignition.
c) Remove the ignition key.
d) Switch off all electrical equipment
ej Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to 'Disconnecting the battery' in the
Reference Chapter}.
fj Insulate the battery negative terminal and
the end of the battery negative lead to
prevent any possibility of contact.
gj Wait for at least two minutes before
carrying out any further work. Wait at least
ten minutes if the alrbag warning light did
not operate correctly
aj Store the unit in a cupboard with the
airbag upward,
bj Do rtol expose the airbag to temperatures
above 80°C,
c) Do not expose the airbag to flames.
dj Do not attempt to dispose of the airbag consult a Vauxhali/Opel dealer,
e) Never refit an airbag which Is known to be
faulty or damaged.
De-activation
The
system
of airttag
must
be
system
de-activated
23 fijTbsg s y s t e m c o i r t p o n e n t s removal
refitting
A
Warning: Refer to the precautions
given in Section
22
before
attempting to carry out work on
any of tha alrbag components.
1 De-activate the airbag system as described
in the previous Secfion, then proceed as
described under the relevant heading.
Driver's
airbag
2 Insert a screwdriver into the holes on both
sides of the rear of the steering wheel to
depress the internal spring retainers, and at the
same time pull the airtjag unit away from the
steering wheel to release it (see Illustrations).
3 Release the locking clips, then disconnect
the wiring connectore at the rear of the airbag
unit (see illustration). Remove the airbag unit.
Note that the airbag must not be knocked
or dropped, and should be stored with its
padded surface uppermost.
23.1Sa Slack«i the upper clamp nut
(arrowed)...
23.18b . . . and tiie tower clamp boK
(arrowed)
4 Refitting is a reversal of tiie removal procedure.
problems with the side airbag system should
be refemed to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.
Passengers
Curtain
airbags
10 The curtain airbags are located behind
the headlining above the doors on each side
and no attempt should be made to remove
them. Any suspected problems with the
curtain alrbag system should be referred to a
Vauxhall/Opel dealer
airbag
5 Remove the glovebox as described in
Ch^ter 11, Section 29.
6 Disconnect the airbag wiring connector(s)
imm the side of the unit {see illustration).
7 Undo the two bolts securing the alrbag
to the facia crossmember and withdraw the
airbag out through the glovebox aperture (see
illustration). Note that tiie airbag must not be
knocked or dropped, and should be stored the
correct way up (as mounted in the vehicle).
8 Refitting Is a reversal of the removal
procedure, tightening the retaining bolts
securely.
Side
airbags
9 The side airbags are located internally v^tiiin
the front seat back and no attempt should
be made to remove them. Any suspected
Alrbag
control
unit
11 The alrbag control unit is located beneatii
the centre console and no attempt should be
made to remove it. Any suspected problems
with the control unit should be referred to a
Vauxh^l/Opel dealer.
Airbag
rotary
connector
12 The a i r t ) ^ rotary connector is an integral
part of the steering column electronics
module. Removal and refitting procedures for
the module are as follows:
13 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference ChaptH^ and wait for 2 minutes.
14 Set the roadwheels In the straightahead position and ensure they remain In
that position during the removal and refitting
procedures,
15 Remove the steering wheel as described
in Chapter 1016 Remove the steering column shrouds as
described in Chapter 11, Section 29.
17 Mark fhe position of the electronics
module In relation to the steering column.
18 Slacken the upper clamp nut, and the
lower clamp bolt, ^ d withdraw the module
fram tiie steering column (see Illustrations).
19 Disconnect the wiring connector and
remove the module (see illustration).
20 Refitting Is a reversal of the removal procedure.
VAUXHALL VECTRA wiring diagrams
Key to symbols
Passenger fusebox
H
Fuse Rating Circuit protected
Infotainment system, DVD
Heater blower, hesting, air conditioning
Sunroof
Door control units
Brake light
Body control unit
LHfrontdoor control unit
Central control unit
Steering column
Diagnostic
0
Wire splir-e. soldered
joint ot unspecified
Yaw sensor (ESP)
Telematics
Cigar lighter, DVD
reslsfoi
Resistor
Dast>ed outline denolea part of a
iarget Hem, containing inttiiscase
^ ^adronlc or soltd state device.
e,g. connector no. XC30, pin 2.
Engine fusebox
Fuse
Fl
FZ
F3
F4
F5
F6
F7
F8
F9
FIO
F11
FIE
F13
P14
F15
f®
Rear f u s e b o x 1 ^
Fuse Rating Circuit prertected
Electric seat adji
Heated rear window
ElectricseatadjuEtm_ .
RH rear electric window
LH rear electric wira
RH tear seat heater
Horn, alarm
IS
Rating
20A
25A
15A
tOA
15A
Circuit protected
Ennlne management, automatic
Starter
Hom
Atrconditioning, climate control
Wash/wipe system
ISA
10A
7,5A
IDA
30A
30A
7.5A
30A
10A
Central contra! unit, ESP
Haadllghis, heated washer
Power steering
AQaplive lighting
Windscreen wiper
Windscreer) wiper
Central control unit ESP
I leadllghtwasii system
Engine control unit
Adaptive lighting,
Headlight levelling,
Xenon headlights
Headlighl levelling
WashAvIpe
Auiiiiary heating
Battery voltage.'
Battery voltage,
Tailgate module
Tailgalo module control unit
Vehicle interior module control
ABS
Vehicle interior module control unit
TallgolB module control un(t
Engine cooling fan
Engine cooling fan
Adaptive lightir,g (slot tor ctiaf^Mg Halting lor abroad)
Battery voltage
LH rear seal heater
Towing equipment
Rear wiper
LH front seat iiaater
RHfr.
Accessory socket
Tailgate lock
Terminal 30
Central lodiing
Alarm
Electrically operated tailgate
Alarm
Battery voltage
Electronic chassis
Terminal 15 (ignition !ock)
Seat occupancy recognifion, lyre pressure monitor,
ram sensor, air conditioning
Parking distance sc
Earth l o c a t i o n s
E9
E10
Ell
E12
E13
E14
E1S
E16
E17
Engine C(
nt start to îrRH sii
RH 'A' pillar
Instnjment panel cnoss member front passenger side
LH engine compartment
Instnimsnt panel cross member front passenger side
LH front frame side member
Rear panel RH side
Transmission tunnel
LH 'A' pillar
Engine starter/altemator
RH'C pillar
Rear panel LH side
On engine
Steering column bracket
On tailgate
Engine compartment strut
Rear panel RH side
Wire colours
LBu
•Bg Beige
LGn
. Bn Brcwn
Og
DBu Dark blue Bn
. DGn Dark green Pu
; Ye Vellow
Pk
- Gn Green
Rd
• Gy Grey
Wh
• Vt Violet
Bu
5
g,
5
R single engine ]
1 cooling fan j
Light blue
Ughi green
Orange
Brown
Purple
Pink
Red
White
Blue
so»
Key to items
1 Battery
2 Engine 1
a = ur
t<1 = Sti
= '»1
^ k i = he
Diagram 2
. Wire colours
•
; BQ Beige
LBu
LGn
' Bk Black
Og
Bn Brown
. DBu Dark blue
• DGn Dark green
. YB Yellow
Pk
:/ On erei
Rd
LIghiblue
Ught green
Orange
Purple
Pink
Bed
[ Stop & mverslng lights j
8
11
12
13
14
15
k3= temunallSrelay
Steering column control unit
Rear fusebox
a = rear electronic control unit
Passenger tuaobox
Stop light Ewitch
Reversing light switch
LH rear light unit is^oonfliatch)
a = reversing light
b = stop light
0 = taU light
16 BH rear light unit Isaloon/hatch)
a = reversing light
b = stoplight
c = tail light
17 LH inner rear light unit (estate)
a = reversing light
3il light
nner tear liQ
a - reversing lie
b = tell light
19 High level brake light
20 LHoutet near light unit (estate)
a = stop tight
21 RH outer rear light unit |e
a = stop light
22 Number plate light
23 LH ttonl light unit
a = adekght
24 RH front light unit
e light
[ SMa. tail a number plate lights ]
U
i ^
Diagram^
• • Bg Beige
.Bk Black
Bn Blown
LBu Lighl blue
LGn Lighl gree
Og O'ange
RH outer rear lighl linn (estate) ?6 Body
b = direction indicator
30 ' ' ' "
LH fmnl iigiit unit
31 RH
Enmne lusebox
Je
iir LEGHT jnii {saIcon/hatch)
2b
Lignt switch
a = side/headiigrn swilcti
b = front foQlighlsmilcti
c --: rear foglight switch .
- ^ ^ l
I Trailer
C I D ŒH)
socket)
m
;X031/gS(>-Bk—
:XC31/430—Gri-
.1.1
••
Û:r-i-et<» " i
™speed
4
4
4
DFO) ( M L CFID
4
CFID
Light blue
I Ughi green
•Bu Dark blu.
• Ye
• Qn
Gv
,. W
Yellow
Green
Grey
Violel
Battery
Engine ftisebox
43
a = under bonnet control unit 44
•15
k3 - temiinal 15 relay
46
23 Hi front light unit
47
g - headlight levelling
48
24 BH front light unit
49
50
g = headlight levelling
25 Light switch
51
a = sideflieaclllght switch
52
d - headlight levelling
53
iHeadlìght levelling - ]
I without xenon lighting J
Headlight levelling oontrol uni
Front level sensor
Rear level sensor
Front interior light
Rear inleiior light
Gkiveboi light
Luggage compartment light
Ashtray light
LH front door light
BH front door light
LH rear door light
54 RH rear door light
55 LH front door craitrol ur
56 RH front door control ui
Headlight levelling - 1
with xenon lighting 1
i3
dÉCÉD
?
s
?
l E t o l fETsI f a i
fEÌQ) (EÌ6I fEel
RdW, ™<) XC31?B0-
CM]
CÈldfS
Diagram
;,.Bg Beige
-•-Bk Black
ivBn Bmwn
LBu Ughtblue
LGn Light gree
Og Orange
1
2
Battery
Engine tuseDox
a = under bonnet con iroi ui
ke = front wiper oiVo if
k7 -- headllglrt v/asher relay
Steering column conlrol unit
12
26
60
61
65
lenger fusobox
.3 = terminal 15 relay
Body coritfOl unit
Cigar lighter
Accessory socket
LH washer jet heater
67 Fron^tviper motOT ^'
I Cigar lighters,
[accessory socket
7d
i
?
s
5
I
fEMl lElel
fin
dio) d l D ( J D I
r-T
«5
Wire colours
Bg Beige
LBu
. Bk Biack
LGn
Bn Brown
Og
DBu Dark blue Bo
DGn Daik green Pu
Ye Yellow
Gn Green
Rd
Gy Grey
[ Vif^ed
Ught blue
Ughi green 1
Orange
Brown
Purple
2
8
Bed
11
mar window )
Battery
Engine fusebox
Steering column conirol unit
Rearfus^x
a = fear electronic control unit
k7 - tieated rear window relay
17 Passenger fusebox
k3= terminal 15 relay
k4 = blower relay
k5 = blower relay
26 Body control unit
75 Heated rear window
76 Heater assembly
a = control unit
D - heater blower mc
e = afi distri»birtiori taiin m
f = air mixer flap motor
Sunroof assembly
Sunroof switcft
{ Sunroof ]
CEIQ]
(Eiö) fEìe) r i s i
4 4 4
fEÌoifEÌiirm
[Elèi fESl
;-; W i r e c o l o u r s
. ". Bg Beige
LBu Ugfit
••
; Bk Blank
LGn LÌ9I1I green
:- Bn Brown
Og Orange
.- DBu Dark blue Bn Brown
,; DGn Dark green Pu Piijple
Yellow
Pk Pmk
.'^Gn Green
Rd Red
ox
12
56
55
56
ka = central locking relay
(luelfiterflap)
Passenger fusebox
Body control unit
LH front door cantro! unit
RH front
RH front door switch unit
c - locking open/dose
d = tailgate release
92
93
94
95
f = child securty illumination 96
g = switch illuminallon
97
ao LH front door switch unit
o = locking opai/close
d = tailgate release
91 LH front door lodt
LH rear door lock
RH frontdoor lock
RH rear door lock
Tailgate unlock switch
Tailgate lock
Fuel filier fl^ motor
Diagram 10
• Bk Black
Bn Brown
DBu Dark blue
• DGn Dark greer1
LBu
LGn
Og
Bn
Pu
Pk
üghtbluB
Light grewi
Orange
Brown
Purple
Pink
1 Battery
2 Engine tusabox
11 Rear fusetjox
a = rsar electronic control unit
26
55
50
86
Body control unit
LH front door control unit
RH front door control unit
RH front door switch unit
h = LH front window swilCh
Reference
Dimensions and weiglits
REF»1
Disconnecting the battery
Fuel e c o n o m y
REF»2
Tools a n d w o r k i n g facilities
REF»10
REF«9
REF«6
M O T test checks
REF«12
Buying spare parts
REF»7
Faultfinding
REF-16
Vehicle identification
REF»7
Glossary of t e c h n i c a l t e r m s
REF"26
General repair p r o c e d u r e s
REF»8
Index
REF-31
Jacking a n d veliicle support
REF*9
Conversion factors
Dimensions and weights
Note: AW figures are approximate and may vary according to model. Refer to manufacturers data for exact ffgures.
Dimensions
Overall length;
Saloon and Hatchback
Estate
Overall width (including door mirrors)
Overall height (unladen):
Saloon and Hatchback
Estate
Wheelbase:
S^oon and Hatchback
Estate
Tumlrig clrde diameter (wall to wall)
Front track
Rear track
Weights
Kerb weight;
1,8 litre petrol engine models:
Saloon
Hatchback
Estate
2.2 litre petral engine models:
Saloon
Hatchback
Estate
Diesel engine models:
Saloon
Hatchback
Estate
Gross vehicle weight
Maximum roof load (including weight of rad^:
Saloon and Hatchback
Estate;
Without rooi railing
With roof railing
4611 mm
4839 mm
2036 mm
1460 mm
1500 mm
2700 mm
2830 mm
11,50 metres
1536 mm
1525 mm
1375to1395kg
1390 to 1410 kg
1470to1490 k9
1435 to 1485 kg
1450 to 1500 kg
1530 to 1580 kg
1503 to 1548 kg
15D3 to 1580 kg
1585 to 1633 kg
Refer to information contained on the vehicle identification plate
90 kg
75 kg
100 kg
REF.2
Fuel economy
Fuel economy
Although depreciation Is still the biggest part of the cost of motoring for most c r owners, the cost of fuel is more Immediately noticeable.
"mese pages give some tips on how to get the best hiel economy.
Worlear
much resembianca to the quoted figures.
H o w t o calculate tt
Many cars now have trip computers which will
display fuel consumption, both instantaneous
and average. Refer to the owner's handbook
for details of how to use these.
To calculate consumption yourself (and
maybe to check that the trip computer is
accurate), pnoceed as follows.
in litres, measure distances in miles and talk
about fuel consumption in miles per gallon.
There are two ways round this: the first is
to convert the litres to gallons before doing
the calculation (by dividing by 4.546, or see
Table 1). So in the example:
1. Fill up with fuel and note the mileage, or
zero ttte trip recorder.
2. Drive as usual until you need to fill up
again.
3. Note the amount of fuel required to refill the
tank, and the mileage covered since the
previous fill-up.
4. Divide the mileage by the amount of fuel
used to obtain the consumptron figure.
The second way is to calculate the
consumption in miles per litre, then multiply
that figure by 4.546 (or see Table 2).
48.6 litres T 4.546 = 10.69 gallons
443 miles -T 10.69 gallons = 41.4 mpg
So in ttie example, futí consumption is:
443 miles .^ 48,6 litres = 9,1 mpl
9.1 mpl x4.546 = 41,4 mpg
For example:
Mileage at first fill-up (^ = 27,903
Mileage ai second fill-up (b) = 28,346
Mileage covered (b - a] - 443
Fuel required at second fill-up = 48.6 litres
The half-completed changeover to metric
units in the UK means that we buy our fuel
The rest of Europe expresses fuel consumptton
in litres of fuel required to travel 100 km (1/100
km). For interest, the conversions are given
in Table 3. in practice It doesn't matter what
units you use, provided you know what your
normal consumption is and can spot if it's
getting better or worse.
Table 1: conversion of litres t o Imperial gallons
lion of miies per litre t o miles per gallon
miles per litre
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
miles per gallon
23
27
32
36
41
46
SO
m
j
13
Table 3: c o n v e r s i o n of litres per 100 k m t o miles per gallon
4
litres par 100 km
ttalaa^-galten
.
71
4.5
5
5.5
6
6,5
56
_5t
4?
«
1
1
7
i
46
j
8
9
3»
10
Fuel economy
REF.3
Maintenance
A we 11-maintained car uses less fuei and
creates less pollution. In particular;
Filters
Change air and fuel filters at the specified
intervals.
Oil
Use a good quality oil of Ihe lowesl viscosity
specified by the vehicle manutacturer (see
Lubricants and fluids). Check the level often
and be careful not to overfill.
Spark plugs
Tyres
Check tyre pressures regularly Under-inflated
tyres have an increased rolling resistance. It
is generally safe to use the higher pressures
specified for full load conditions even when
not fully laden, but keep an eye on the centre
band of tread for signs of wear due to overinflation.
When buying new tyres, consider the 'fuel
saving' models which most manufacturers
include in their ranges.
When applicable, renew at the specified
intervals.
Driving style
Acceleration
Acceleration uses more fuel than driving at
a steady speed. The best technique with
modern cars is to accelerate reasonably
briskly tc the desired speed, changing up
through the gears as soon as possible without
making the engine labour.
Air condttioning
Air conditioning absorbs quite a bit of energy
from the engine - typically 3 kW {4 hp) or so.
The effect on fuel consumption is at its worst
In slow traffic. Switch it off when not required.
Anticipation
Drive smoothly and try to read the traffic flow
so as to avoid unnecessary acceleration and
braking.
Automatic transmission
When accelerating in an automatic, avoid
depressing the throttle so far as to make the
transmission hold onto lower gears at higher
speeds. Don't use the 'Sport' setting, if
applicable.
When stationary with the engine running,
select 'N' or 'P'. When moving, keep your left
toot away from the brake.
Braking
Braking converts the car's energy of motion
into heat - essentially, it is wasted. Obviously
some braking is always going to be necessary,
but with good anticipation it is surprising how
much can be avoided, especially on routes
that you know well.
Carshare
REF.4
Fuel economy
Electrical loads
Electricity is 'fuel' too; the alternator wtiich
charges the battery does so by converting
some of the engine's energy of motion
into electrical energy. The more electrical
accessories are in use, the greater the load
on the alternator Switch off big consumers
like the heated rear window when not
required.
Freewheel ing
Freewheeling (coasting) in neutral with the
engine switched off is dangerous. The effort
required to operate power-assisted brakes
and steering increases when the engine is
not ronning, with a potential lack of control in
emergency situations.
In any case, modern fuel injection systems
automatically cut off the engine's fuel supply
on the overrun (moving and in gear, but with
fhe accelerator pedal released).
Bolt-on devices claiming to save fuel have
been around for nearly as long as the motor
car itself. Those which worked were rapidly
adopted as standard equipment by the vehicle
manufacturers. Others worked only in certain
situations, or saved fuel only at the expense
of unacceptable effects on performance,
driveabllity or the life of engine components.
The most effective fuel saving gadget is the
driver's right foot.
J o u r n e y planning
Combine (eg) a trip to the supermarket with a
visit to the recycling centre and the DIY store,
rather than making separate journeys.
When possible choose a travelling time
outside rush hours.
Load
The more heavily a car is laden, the greater
the energy required to accelerate it to a given
speed. Remove heavy items which you dont
need to carry.
One load which is often overlooked Is the
contents of the fuel tank. A tankhjl of fuel (55
litres / 1 2 gallons) weighs 45 kg (100 lb) or so.
Just half filling it may be worthwhile.
Lost?
At the risk of stating the obvious, if you're
going somewhere new, have details of the
route to hand There's not much point in
achieving record mpg if you also go miles out
of your way.
Parking
if possible, carry out any reversing or turning
manoeuvres when you arrive at a paiidng
space so that you can drive straight out when
you leave. Manoeuvering when the engine is
cold uses a lot more fuek
Driving around looking for free on-street
parking may cost more in fuel than buying a
car park ticket.
Premium fuel
Most major oil companies (and some
supermarkets)»have premium grades of fuel
which are several pence a litre dearer than
the standard grades. Reports vary, but the
consensus seems to be that if these fuels
improve economy at all, they do not do so by
enough to justify their extra cost.
Roof rack
When loading a roof rack, try to produce a
wedge shape with the narrow end at the front.
Any cover should be securely fastened - if it
fiaps It's creating turbulence and absorbing
energy
Remove roof racks and boxes when not
in use - they increase air resistance and can
create a surpnsing amount of loise.
Fuel economy
REF-S
Short journeys
The engine is at its least efficient, and wear
is highest, during the first few miles after a
cold start. Consider walking, cycling or using
public transport.
Speed
The engine is at its most efficient when running
at a steady speed and load at the rpm where it
develops maximum tongue. (You can find this
figure in the car's handbool(.) For most cars
ttiis corresponds lo t>etween 55 and 65 mph
In top gear.
Above the optimum cruising speed, fuel
consumption starts to rise quite sharply. A
car travelling at 80 mph will typically lie using
30% more fuel than at 60 mph.
Supermarket fuel
It may be cheap but is It any good? In ttie UK
all supermarket fuel must meet the relevant
British Standard. The major oil companies
will say that their branded fuels have better
additive packages which may stop carbon
and other deposits building up. A reasonable
compromise might be to use one tank
of branded fuel to three or four from the
sjpemiarket.
Switch off when stationary
Switch off the engine if you look like being
stationary for more than 30 seconds or so.
This is good for the environment as well as for
your pocket. Be aware though that frequent
restarts are hard on the battery and the starter
Windows
Driving with the windows open increases
air turbulence around the vehicle. Closing
the windows promotes smooth airflow and
reduced resistance. The faster you go, the
more significant this is.
And f i n a l l y . . .
Driving techniques associated with good
fuel economy tend to involve moderate
acceleration and low top speeds. Be
considerate to the needs of other road users
who may need to make brisker progress: even
it you do not agree with them this is not an
excuse to be obstructive.
Safety must always take precedence
over economy, whether it is a question of
accelerating hard to complete an overtaking
manoeuvre, killing your speed when confronted
with a potential hazand or switching the lights
on when II starts to get dark.
REF.6
Conversion factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in)
Feet (ft)
Miles
X25.4
x 0.305
X 1.609
= Millimetres (mm)
= Metres (m)
= Kilometres (km)
X 0.0394 = Inches (in)
X 3.281 = Feet (ft)
X 0.621 = Miles
Cubic Inches (cu in; in=)
Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal)
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
=
=
3
=
=
=
=
=
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb)
X 28.35 = Grams (g)
X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg)
X 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
X 2.205 - Pounds (lb)
X 0,278 = Newtons (N)
X 4.448 = Newtons (N)
X 0.1
= Kilograms-force (kg^ kg)
X 3.6
= Ounces-force (orf; oz)
X 0.225 = Pounds-force (Ibf; lb)
X 9.81 - Newtons (N)
inch
X 0,070 = Kilograms-force per square
centimetre (kgf/cm'; kg/cm^
X 0,068 = Atmospheres (atm)
inch
X 0.D69 = Bars
inch
X 6,895 = Kilopascals (kPa)
X 0,01
X 14.223. = Pounds-force per square
(psi; lbf/in>; Ib/in^
X 14.696; = Pounds-force per square
(psi; Ibf/in'; lb/in-)
X 14.5 = Pounds-force per square
(psl;tbf/in'; lb/In')
X 0-145 - Pounds-force per square
Ipsi;tolArf;lb/in')
X 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbat^
X
X
X 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)
X 68,947•= Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mba^
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (\rM2O)
X
X
X
X
Volume (capacity)
Mass (weight)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-ton^ (Ibf; lb)
Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds-force per square
(psi; Ibf/in^i Ib/in^
Pounds-force per square
(psi; lbt/in=; Ib/ln')
Pounds-force per square
(psi; lbf/ln=; lb/in')
Pounds-force per square
(psv. Ibf/in=; \b/\rf)
Kilopascals (kPa)
inch
16.387
0.568
1.137
1.201
0.946
4.546
1,201
3.785
Cubic centimetres (cc; cm')
Litres (1)
Utres(l)
US quarts (US qt)
Ures(l)
ytresjl)
US gallons (US gal)
Litres (1)
= Kilograms-forceps square
centimetre (kgf/cm'; kg/cnf)
100 = Pascals (Pa)
0,014£i = Pounds-force per square inch
(pal; Ibf/ln'; lb/in')
0,75 = Millimetres ot mercury (mmHg)
0.401 = Inches of water (InHaO)
0,535 = Inches of water (inHjO)
0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in'; Ib/inT
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb In)
Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force
Inches
inches
X 1,152 = Kilograms-force centimetre
(kgf cm; kg cm)
X 0,113 = Newton metres (Nm)
inches
X 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
X 0,138 = Kilograms-force metres
(kgf m; kg m)
X 1,356 = Newton metres (Nm)
X 0,102 = Kilograms-force metres
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm)
Power
i-torse power (hp)
Velocity (speed)
X 745,7 = Watts (Vfl
X
X
X
X
0.061
1.76
0,88
0,833
1,057
0-22
0.833
0.264
1.333
2.491
1,868
27,68
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
Cubic Inches (cu In; In")
Imperial pints Omp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts {US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal)
Inch
inch
Inch
inch
Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (InHgO)
X 0,868 = Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb in)
X 8,85 - Pounds-force
(Ibf In; lb In)
X 12
= Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb in)
X 7.233 = Pounds-force
inches
incfiea
inches
feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
X 0.738 = Pounds-force feel (ibf ft; lb ft)
X 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)
X 0.0013= Horsepower (hp)
Miles per hour (mlles/hr; mph)
X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles^^; mph)
Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg)
Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
X 0,354 = Kilometres per litre (km/I)
X 0.425 = Kilometres per litre (km/I)
Fuel consumption*
Temperature
X 2.825 = Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg)
X 2.352 = Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
Degrees Fahrenheit = (=C x 1.8) + 32
Degrees Celsius (Degrees Ceiitigrade; X ) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
practice to cortvert from miles per gallon (mpg) to lltres/100 kilometies (j/IQOkm). where mpg x 1/100 km = 282
Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker's appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To b(i sure of oblainina the coiToct parts, it will
sometimes be necessary to quote the vehicle
identification number If possible, it can also
be useful to take the old parts aiong for
positive identification. Items such as starter
motors and alternators may be available
under a sen/ice exchange scheme - any parts
returned should be clean.
Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows.
Officially appointed garages
This is fhe best source of parts which
are peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg, badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc!. It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the car is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy materials
and components needed for the maintenance
of your car (oil, air and fuel filters, light bulbs,
dnvebelts, greases, brake pads, touch-up
paint, etc). Components of this nature
usually ot tne
aama standard as 0,o»a us.d by t n . car
_ ..
..
.
,
Baswes components. Ibese shops also
sell tools and general accessories, usually
REF.T
Tyre and exiiaust specialists
j^^^^
indep.ndsat. or
members ot a local or national cnain. They
,
oompetitl.o pnoes wneJ
^^Jp,
,
J'^
sr,,"rd?r„ssrs™?„T;iS!!?,\™r
^ « " » w ' » • » > « " =""="" i " ' " ' ^ • ^
^ P a ^ ^ = o S =
pt4n°ourrs
where components needed for almost any
repair job can be purchased or ordered.
T ^
^^^^^^^^
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg, brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves). They may also handle work such as
cylinder block reboring, crankshaft regrinding,
etc,
,
Engine reconditioners
These specialise in engine overiiaul and can
also supply components. It is recommended
that the establishment is a member of the
Federation of Engine Re-Manufacturers, or a
similar society
^
Z ^ - : ^ ^ ^
^
^J^
^^^^^^^^ g,, ^^^^^ commonly
"^^^'^ed on top of the price of a new tyre.
Other S O U r C B S
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales, on-line auctions
or similar outlets. Such items are not invariably
sub-standard, but there is little chance of
compensation if they do prove unsatisfactory,
m the case of safety-critical components such
as brake pads, there is the risk not only of
financial loss, but also of an accident causing
injury or death.
Second-hand components or assemblies
obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIV mechanic.
Vehicle Identification
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublished process in vehicle manufacture, information and paint and trim colour codes.
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
The Vehicle IdenlHicatlon Number (VINj is
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a given on the vehicle identification plate and
numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers is also stamped into the body floor panel
being essential to conect identif cation of the between the right-hand front seat and the
component required.
door sill panel (see illustration); lift the flap in
When ordering spare parts, always give the carpet to see it,
Vauxhall/Opel usee 'Car pass' scheme lor
as much information as possible. Quote the
car model, year of manufacture and vehicle vehicle identification. This is a card which is
identification and/or engine numbers as issued to the customer when the car is first
purchased. It contains important information,
appropriate.
eg, VIN number, key number and radio code.
The vehicle identification plate is attached
It also includes a special code for diagnostic
to the front right-hand side door pillar
equipmem, therefore it must be kept in a
(see Illustration) and includes the Vehicle
secure place and not in the vehicle.
Identification Number (VIN), vehicle weight
The engine number is stamped on a
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plate attached to the front
right-hand side door pillar
horizontal flat located on the front of the
cyiinder block, al the transmission end. The
first part of the engine number gives the
engine code - eg 213XE.
—_ _„
^"9'"^
^Odes
1.6 litre (1796 cc) DOHC 16-valve
petrol engine
Z18XE and ZISXER
2.2 litre (2198 cc) DOHC 16-valve
petrol engine
Z22YH
„ ,
,
. .
' -^J'^^. f i ^ ^ f ^ ^ " ^ ^ " , ^ 0 ^
^"9'™
1.9 litre (1910 cc) DOHC 16-valve
Diesel enflife
Z19DTH
The VIN number is stamped Into the body floor next to the
right-hand front seat
REF.8
General repair procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work.
is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out
the operation efficiently and to a professional
standanj of wor1etween the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results In oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
orcler to break the seal. However, note that this
method may not be suitable where dowels are
used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, a new one must t>e
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning
a joint face, use a tool which Is unlikely to
score or damage the face, and remove any
burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed othemvlse.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil
seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Altematively, a number of
s^-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
Of an assembly. It should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts Is not completely clean and free fnsm
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot
be restored, and the manufacturer has not
made provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
shouW be renewed.
Protect ttie lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Where indicated, lubricate the seal
lips with oil before fitting and, on duai-lipped
seals, fill the space between the lips with
grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must
be fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lutB-icant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
:e to install the seal and, if * e
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
Its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise Instnjcted).
Screw
threads
and
fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate screwdriver
bit or socket. If none of these methods works,
it may be necessary to resort to the careful
application of heat, or the use ot a hacksaw or
nut splitter device. Before resorting to extreme
methods, check that you are not dealing with
a left-hand thread!
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor
Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is
completely free from oil, grease, water or
Other fluid before installing the bolt or stud.
Failure to do this could cause the housing to
crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or
stud as it is screwed in.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, "angle-tightening" being called up
Instead, Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in the
correct sequence, followed by one or more
stages of tightening through specified angles.
When checking or retightening a nut or
bolt to a specified torque setting, slacken the
nut or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting However,
this shouid not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used,
Locknuts,
locktabs
and
washers
Any fastening which will rotate against
a component or housing during lightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end beanng retaining
bolt or nut. Locktabs which are folded over to
retain a nut or bolf should always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in noncritical areas, providing resistance can be
felt when the loclting portion passes over the
bolt or stud thread. However, it should be
noted that self-locking stiffnuts lend to lose
their effectiveness after long periods of use,
and shouW then be renewed as a matter of
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the bole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be
re-used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
appliei
Special
tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a
press, two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc Wherever possible,
suitable readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer's special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has
been necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer's tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless
you are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when ihe procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very
great risk of personal injury, but expensive
damage could be caused to the components
involved.
Environmental
considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration
to any detrimental environmental effects. Do
not, for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains Into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. You can
find your nearest disposal point by calling the
Environment Agency on 08708 506 506 or by
visiting vmw.oilbankline.org.uk.
.f>ILCARE,
Nofe: It is iilegal and anti-social to dump oii
down ihe drain. To find the location of your
local t^l recycling bank, call 08708 S06 S06
orvisltwww.ollbankllne.org.uk.
Jacking and vehicle support
The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing roadwheels
- see W/heel changing at the front of this
manual. Ensure the jack head is correctly
engaged before attempting to raise the
vehicle. When carrying out any other kind of
work, raise the vehicle using a hydraulic jack,
and alv^ays supplement the jack with axle
1
stands positioned under the vehicle jacking
points.
When jacking up the vehicle with a trolley
Jack, position the jack head under one of the
relevant jacking points. Use a block of wood
between the jack or axle stand and the sill the block of wood should have a groove cut
into I t , In which the welded flange of the sill
^
REF.9
will locate. Do not jack the vehicle under the
sump or any of the steering or suspension
components. Supplement the jack using axle
stands (see illustrations).
Warning: Never work under,
around, or near a raised vehicle,
unless it is adequately supported
in at least two places.
A
1^1
t
Axle stands should be placed under, or
adjacMt to the jacking point (arrowed)
Disconnecting the battery
Numerous systems fitted to the vehicle
require battery power to be available at
all times, either to ensure their continued
operation (such as the clock) or to maintain
control unit memotfes which would be erased
If the battery were to be disconnected.
Whenever the battery is to be disconnected
therefore, first note the following, to ensure
that there are no unforeseen consequences of
this action:
a) First, on any vehicle with central locldng,
it is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in, if the
central locking should engage accidentally
wtien the battery is reconnected.
b) Depending on model and specification,
the Vauxhall anti-theft alarm system may
be of the type which is automatically
activated when the vehicle battery Is
disconnected and/or reconnected.
To prevent the alarm sounding on
models so equipped, switch the
ignition on, then off, and disconnect
the battery wiOiinl 5 seconds, tfthe
alarm Is activated when the battery Is
reconnected, switch the ignition on then
off to deactivate the alann.
c) lía security-coded audio unit is fitted,
and the unit and/or the battery Is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the conect
security code is entered. Details of this
procedure, which varies according to the
unit fitted, are given in the vehicle audio
system operating Instructions. Ensure
you have the conect code before you
disconnect the battery. If you do not
have the code or details of the correct
procedure, but can supply proof of
ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer may be able to help.
H) The engine management e/ecfranic
control unit Is of the 'self-learning' type,
meaning tíiat as /(operates, it also
monitors and stores ffie settings which
give optimum engine performance under
all operating conditions. When the battery
is disconnected, these settings are lost
and the ECU mverts to the base settings
programmed into its memory at the
factory. On restarting, this may lead to the
engine running/idling roughly for a short
while, until the ECU has releamed the
optimum settings. This process is t e s i
accomplished by taking tiie vehicle on a
Kiad test (for approximately ISminutes).
covering all engine speeds and loads,
concenbating mainly in the 2500 to 3500
rpm region.
}) On models equipped with automatic
transmission, tiie transmission selector
lever assembly incorporates an
electrically-operated selector lever lock
mechanism that prevents the lever being
moved out of the P position unless the
ignition is switched on and the brake
pedal is depressed. If the selector lever
is in the P position and (he battery is
disconnected, it will not be possible to
move tiie selector lever out of position
P by the nornial means. Although It Is
possible to manually ovenide the system
(see Chapter 7B), It is sensible to move
the selector lever to the N position before
disconnecting the batteiy.
f) On models with electric windows, it will
be necessary to reprogramme the motors
to restore the one-touch function of tiie
buttons, after reconnection of the battery.
To do this, fully close both front windows.
With tiie windov^ closed, depress tiie
up button of the driver's side virindow for
approximately 5 seconds, thenre/easeit
and depress the passenger side window
up button for approximately 5 seconds.
g} On models with an electric sliding
sunroof, it will be necessary to fully open
and fully close the sunroof after battery
reconnection, to recalibrate the sensors.
h) On all mode/s, wtien reconnecting the
battery after disconnection, switch on ttie
ignition and wait 10 seconds to allow tiie
electronic vehicle systems to stabilise and
REF«io
Tools and working facilities
Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any.
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourseff. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
w\\ last for many years and prove an extremely
worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner lo decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed In this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair.
Repair and overtiaui, and Special, Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit,
and confine themselves to the simpler jobs
around the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repair fool kit can be
built up Into a Repair andoverfiau/tool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a fool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools irom the Special category when it is
felt that the expense Is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance
minor
repair
and
tool
kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other);
although more expensive than open-ended
ones, they do give the advantages of both
types of spanner.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Combination spanners:
Metric -8 to 19 mm inclusive
Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)
Spark plug spanner (W/ffi rubber insert) peirof models
Sparfr plug gap adjustment tool petrol models
Set of teeler gauges
Biake bleed nipple spanner
Screwdrivers;
FlatbladeloommlongxGmmdia
Cross blade -WO mm long xBmmdla
Tone - various sizes (not ali vehicles)
Combination pliers
Hacksaw junior)
Tyre pump
Tyre pressure gauge
Oilcan
Oil filter removal tool (if applicable)
Fine emery cloth
Wire bmsh (small)
Funnel (medium size)
Sump drain plug key (not all vehicles)
Repair
overhaul
tool
kit
The tools in this list will sometimes need to
be supplemented by fools frain the Specia! list;
•
Socftefs fo caver range in previous list
(including Torx sockets)
•
Reversible ratchet drive (for use with
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Tone key, socket and bit
and
These tools are virtually essential for anyone
undertaking any major repairs to a motor
vehicle, and are additional to those given in
theIWa/nfenanceandm/norrepa/rllst. Included
in this list Is a comprehensive set of sockets.
Although these are expensive, they will be
found Invaluable as they are so versatile particularly if various drives are included in the
set. We recommend the half-inch square-drlva
type, as this can be used with most proprietary
torque wrenches.
Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with
Universal joint (for use with sockets)
Rexitde handle or sliding T "breaker bar"
(for use with sockets)
Torque wrench (for use with sockets)
Self-locking grips
Ball pein hammer
Soft-i^ced mallet (plastic or mbber)
Screwdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician's) types
Cross blade - long S sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
Pliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician's)
Circlip (internal and external)
CM chisel-25 mm
Scriber
Scraper
Centre-puntdi
Pin punch
Hacksaw
Brake hose clamp
Brake/clutch bleeding kit
Selection of twist drills
Steel njle/straight-edge
Allen keys (inc. spllned/Torx type)
Selection of Hies
Wire bmsh
Axle stands
Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
Ught vnm extension lead
Universal electrical multi-meter
Tools and working facilities REF- 1 1
Special
toois
The tools in ttiis list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers' instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists' club) to make a
joint purchase, or tiorrowing the toots against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist.
The followmg list contains only those
tools and instruments freely avaiiabie to the
public, and not those special tools produced
by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for
its dealer network. "Vou will find occasional
references to these manufacturers' special
tools in the text of this manual. Generaliy, an
alternative method of doing the job without
the vehicle manufacturers' special tool
is given. However, sometimes there is no
alternative to using them. Where this is the
case and the relevant tool cannot be bought
or borrowed, you will have to entrust the
work to a dealer
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Angular-tightening gauge
Vaive sphng compressor
Valve gnnding tool
Piston ring compressor
Piston hng removal/installation tool
Cylinder bore hone
Balljoint separator
Coil spnng compressors (where
applicable)
Two/three-legged hub and bearing
puller
Impact screwdriver
Micrometer and/or vernier calipers
Dial gauge
Tachometer
Fault code reader
Cylinder compression gauge
Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
Clutch plate alignment set
Brake shoe steady spring cup removal
tool
Bush and beanng removal/installation
•
•
•
StudextracUirs
7 ^ and (Se set
umgtBcMe
•
•
•
•
n
•
Q
•
•
•
OU fitter remove tool (strap wrench type)
Buying
toois
Reputable motor accessory shops and
superstores often offer excellent quality tools
at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.
Remember, you dont have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear ofthe very cheap toois.
Beware of 'bargains' offered on market stalls,
on-line or at car boot sales. There are plenty
of good tools around at reasonable prices, but
aiways aim to purchase items which meet the
relevant national safety standards. If in doubt,
ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for
advice before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance
of
tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it
is necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the toois away
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used, A simple tool rack on the garage or
workshop wall for items such as screwdrivers
and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal
spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any
measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc.
must be carefully stored where they cannot be
damaged or become rusty
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on
their blades from time To time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good finish.
Worldng
facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the worier. Tum the
steenng from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal finnly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or l e ^ s unda- pi
seats
•e applicable to
• Examine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) tor cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to oheck the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
• Seat belts with pre-tensioners, once
activated, have a "^ag" or similar showing on
the seat belt stalk. This, in itself, is not a
reason for test failure.
• The front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
• Both front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
dm Checks carried out
WTH THE CHICLE ON THE
GROUND
Vehicle
identification
C Number plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced - spacing at (A) should be at
least twice that at (B).
D Check the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
• Check the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
• Switch on the ignition and check fhe
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lighte must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause Is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster,
• Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch,
n The ARS warning light must illuminate in
nccorcance with the manufacturers' design,
t or most vehicles, the ABS warning light
linate when the ignition is switched
on, ijnri in the system is operating properly)
oxtinaijish after a tew seconds. Refer to fhe
idbook.
Footbrake
n Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
• other damage.
• The fluid reservoir must be secure and ttie
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.
Steering
and
suspension
• Have your assistant tum the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point
where the steering gear just tseglns to transmit
this movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear
or insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-sleering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
a Have your assislant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously In each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs ot wear or
damage. Qn vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
• Check that the vehicle Is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock
absorbers
n Depress each corner of the vehicle In tum,
then release It. The vehicle should rise and
then settle In its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
REF.14
MOT test checks
Exhaust
system
• start the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
W
Front and rear suspension
and
wheel
bearings
• starting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock
positions and rock gently but firmly. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mountings, pivots and attachments.
• Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o'clock and
6 o'clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check lor
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
beanng.
• The same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, conosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
• Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles
only)
C Rotate each front wheel in tum and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspensmn
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering
mechanism
component pivot point, this cai
by using a large screwdriver „. „
_.
and levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the
bolt holes can often become elongated).
D Have your assistant turn the steering from
lock fo lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
• Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of Ihe retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also checl< for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe con-osion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
M
Springs
and
shocic
absorbers
n Examine the suspension struts (when
applicable} for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
IJ If coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken,
• if leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
lion of the spring eye mountings.
bushes, and shackles.
Braliing
system
• If possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining matenal nas not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
• Examine all the ngid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for cornasion, chafing
or insecunty of Ihe pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
• Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on fhe brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components,
• Slowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
MOT test checks
C O emissions
• Examine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecuriiy ot
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
• It is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check thai the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel
and
exhaust
systems
• Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
• Examine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security ot the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
U Check the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1,6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body
corrosion
• Check the condition of the entire vehicle
stnjcture for signs cf corrosion in load-bearing
areas, (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and ail
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages,) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fall. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
• Damage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE'S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
Petrol
Wheels
and
tyres
• Examine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in tum. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and
properiy seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged,
• Check that the t ^ s are of the con-ect size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
models
• The engine should be warmed up, and
running well (ignition system in good order, air
filter element clean, etc),
• Before testing, run the engine at around
2500 rpm tor 20 seconds. Let the engine drop
to idle, and watch for smoke trom the
exhaust. If the idle speed is too high, or if
dense blue or black smoke emerges for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. Typically,
blue smoke signifies oil burning (engine wear);
black smoke means unburnt fuel (dirty air
cleaner element, or other fuei system fault).
• An exhaust gas analyser for measuring
carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons
(HO) IS now needed. If one cannot be hired or
borrowed, have a local garage perform the
check.
REF.IS
(mixture)
• The MOT tester has access to the CO
limits for all vehicles. The CO level is
measured at Idle speed, and at 'fast Idle'
(2500 to 3000 rpm). The following limits are
given as a general guide:
At Idle speed - Less than 0.5% CO
At -fast idle'- Less than 0.3% CO
Lambda reading - 0.97 to 1.03
n If the CO level is too high, this may point to
poor maintenance, a fuel Injection system
problem, faulty lambda (oxygen) sensor or
catalytic converter. Try an injector cleaning
treatment, and check the vehicle's ECU for
fault codes.
HC
emissions
• The MOT tester has access to HC limits for
all vehicles. The HC level is measured at 'fast
Idle' (2500 to 3000 rpm). The following limits
are given as a general guide:
At 'fast idle' - Less then 200 ppm
• Excessive HC emissions are typically
caused by oil being burnt (worn engine), or by
a blocked crankcase ventilation system
('breather'). If the engine oil is old and thin, an
oil change may help, if the engine is running
badly, check the vehicle's ECU for fault
codes.
Diesel
models
• Tlie only emission test for diesel engines is
measuring exhaust smoke density, using a
calibrated smoke meter. The test Involves
accelerating the engine at least 3 times to its
I unloaded speed.
Note: On engines with a liming belt, it is
VITAL that the bell is in good condition before
the test IS carried out.
• With the engine warmed up. It is first
purged by running at around 2500 rpm for
20 seconds, A governor check is then
carried out, by slowly accelerating the
engine to its maximum speed. After this, the
smoke meter is connected, and the engine Is
accelerated quickly to maximum speed three
times. If the smoke density Is less than the
limits given below, the vehicle will pass:
Non-turbo vehicles: 2.5m-1
Turbocharged vehicles: 3.0m-1
• It excess smoke is produced, try fitting a
new air cleaner element, or using an injector
cleaning treatment. If the engine is running
badly, where applicable, check the vehicle's
ECU for fault codes. Also check the vehicle's
EGR system, where applicable. At high
mileages, the injectors may require
professional attention.
REF.16
Fault finding
Engine
Engine fails to rotate wtien attempting to start
-r
Engine rotates, but will not start
; f . Engine difficult to start when coid
!-\ I Engine difficult to Start when hot
r 1 starter motor noisy or excessively-rough m engagement
. . n Engine starts, but Stops immediately
Engine idles erratically
Engine misfires at idle speed
rl
Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
•| I Engine tiesitates on acceleration
•1 ! Engine stalls
: ! Engine lacks pov^er
Engine backfires
: L Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
r. I
Engine runs-on after switching off
!
Engine noises
Cooling
system
-•
Overheating
!,[
Overcooling
I
External coolant leakage
! ~ Intemal coolant leakage
L I Corrosion
Clutch
[
Pedal travels tc floor - no pressure or v a ^ little resistance
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with ni
I I Judder as clutch is engaged
i ] Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual
and
Easytronic
transmissions
Noisy in neutral with engine mnning
Noisy in one particular gear
Difficulty engaging gears
Jumps out of gear
Vibralion
,
Uibhcant leaks
-•'•:fi]m*j|ffi^|n|M
Introduction
Fluid leakage
1 Transmission fluid bravm, or hasfciurnedsmell
'-^^•j
I Genera gear election problems
^Wjt
1 Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator
pedal fully depressed
C Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
I J Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no dnve \n
fonward or reverse gears
Drh/eshafts
r
Vibration when accelerating o
' , Clicking or knocking noise on
Braldng
system
[J Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
Z ' Noise fennding or high-pitched squeal) when bi
! ] Excessive brake pedal travel
'
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
_
, , Excessive tirake pedal effort required to stop vebrcle• Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
IJ Brakes binding
J Rear wheels locking under nonnal braking
Suspension
Fuel and exhaust
systems
•[
Excessive fuel cortsumption
Fuel leakage and'or fuel odour
Excessive noise or fumes fn^m exhaust system
;\ I
I I
• I
' ; I
C
•
The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to Ihe recommended
service schedules should not have to use
this section of the manual very often. Modern
component reliability is such that, provided
those items subject to wear or deterioration
are inspected or renewed at the specified
intervals, sudden failure is comparaliveiy rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result
of sudden failure, but develop over a period of
time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles.
Those components which do occasionally
fail without warning are often small and easily
canied in the vehicie.
and
steering
•/ Vehicle pulls to one side
•
Wheel wobble and vibration
I i Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, ft
braking
! J Wandering or general instability
_.: Excessively-stiff steering
;
Excessive play in steering
i "i Lack of power assist^ce
Electrical
system
' ! Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
: Ignilion/no-charge warning light remains illuminated iMth.enaae.
Z•
I I
• :
Ignitioivno-charge warning light fails to come on
Lights inoperative
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Windscreen wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
~ ' Windscreen washere inoperative, or unsafisfactory in operation
L_' Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operabon
•
Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
With any fauh-finding, the first step is
to decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions, a little detective work will be
necessaiy. The owner who makes half a dozen
haphazard adjustments or replacements
may be successful in curing a fault (or its
symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent
more time and money than was necessary.
A calm and logical approach will be found to
be more satisfactory in the long run. Always
take into account any warning signs or
abnormalities that may have been noticed in
the period preceding the fault - power loss,
high or low gauge readings, unusual smells.
etc - and remember that failure of components
such as fuses or spark plugs may only be
pointers to some underlying fault.
The pages which follow provide an easyreference guide to the more common problems
which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible
causes are grouped under headings denoting
various components or systems, such as
Engine, Cooling system, etc. The general
Chapter which deals with the problem is also
shown in brackets; refer lo the relevant part ot
that Chapter tor system-specific information.
Whatever the fault, certain basic principles
apply These are as follows;
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of
Fault finding
being sure that you know what the symptoms
are before starting work. This Is particularly
Important if you are Investigating a fault for
someone else, who may not have described it
very accurately.
Don'f overlook the obvious. For example,
if the vehicle won't start, is there fuel in the
tank? (Don't take anyone else's word on this
particular point, and don't trust the fuel gauge
eitherl) If an electrical fault is indicated, look
for loose or broken wires before digging out
the test gear
Cure ttie disease, no! the symptom.
Substituting a flat battery with a fully-charged
one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if
the underlying cause is not attended to, the
new battery will go the same way, Similariy,
changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set
will get you moving again, but remember that
the reason for the fouling (if It wasn't simply
an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be
established and conected.
Don '( fake anything for granted. Particularly,
don't forget that a 'new' component may itself
be defective (especially if It's been rattling
around in ttie boot for months), and don't leave
Engine
Engine
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
to rotate
when
Diesel
fault
diagnosis
The majority of starting problems Oh small
diesel engines are electrical in origin. The
mechanic who is familiar with petrol engines
but less so with diesel may be inclined to view
the diesel's injectors and pump in the same
light as the spark plugs and distributor, but
ttiis is generally a mistake.
attempting
to
start
Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (see Weekly
diecks)
Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5A)
Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5A)
Defective starter solenoid or ignition switch (Chapter 5A or 12)
Defective starter motor (Chapter 5A)
Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teetfi loose or broken (Chapter 2A,2B, 20, 2D or 5 ^
Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5A)
Engine suffering 'hydraulic lock' (eg fram water drawn into the
engine after traversing flooded roads, or from a serious intemal
coolant leak) - consult a main dealer for advice
Automatic transmission not in position P or N (Chapter 7B)
Engine
•
•
•
fails
components out of a fault diagnosis sequence
just because they are new or recently-fitted.
When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault,
you'll probably realise that all the evidence
was therefrom the start.
Consider what work, If any, has recently
been carried out Many faults arise through
careless or hurried work. For instance, if
any work has been performed under the
bonnet, could some of the wiring have tieen
dislodged or incorrectly routed, or a hose
trapped? Have all the fasteners been prciperfy
tightened? Were new, genuine parts and new
gaskets used? There is often a certain amount
of detective work to be done in this case,
as an apparently-unrelated task can have
far-reaching consequwices.
rotates,
but
will
not
start
Fuel tank empty
Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5A)
Battery terniinal connections loose or comaded (see Weekly
checks)
Ignition components damp or damaged - petrol models (Chapter 1A or 5B)
Immobiliser fault, or 'uncoded' ignition key being used (Chapter 12
Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit - petrol
models (ChapterIAor5B)
Wom, faulty or Incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1/V
Preheating system faulty - diesel models (Chapter 5A)
Fuel injection/engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C)
Air In fuel system - diesel models (Chapter 4B}
Major mechanical failure (eg timing /beltchain snapped) (Chapter 2A, 2B, 20 or 2D)
Engine
difficult
to start
when
cold
•
Battery discharged (Chapter 5A)
•
Btrttery temiinal connections loose or conoded (see Weekly cOecks)
REF.I?
When Investigating complaints of difficult
starting for someone else, make sure that
the conect starting procedure is understood
and is being followed. Some drivers are
unaware of the significance of the preheating
warning light - many modern engines are
sufficiently forgiving for this not to matter in
mild weather, but with the onset of winter,
problems begin.
As a rule of thumb, if the engine is difficult
to start but runs well when it has finally got
going, the problem Is electrical (battery,
starter motor or preheating system). If poor
performance is combined with difficult
starting, the problem is likely to be in the
fuel system. The low-pressure (supply) side
of the fuel system should be checked before
suspecting the injectors and high-pressure
pump. The most common fuel supply
problem is air getting Into the system, and
any pipe from the fuel tank forwards must
be scrutinised If air leakage is suspected.
Normally the pump is the last item to suspect,
since unless it has been tampered with, there
is no reason for it to be at fault.
Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1A]
_ Other ignition system fault - petrol models (Chapter 1A or SB)
i_l Preheating system faulty - diesel models (Chapter SA)
•
Fuel Injection/engine management sysfem fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C)
•
Wrong grade of engine oil used (Weekly cfiecAs, Chapter 1A or 1B)
•
Low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A. 2B, 2C or 2D)
n
Engine
difficult
to start when
hot
• Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1A or 1B)
•
Fuel injection/engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C)
•
Low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
Starter
motor
noisy or excessively-rough
in
engagement
L_ Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapter 2A. 2B, 2C 2D or 5A)
•
Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5A)
•
Starter motor internal components wom or damaged (Chapter 5A)
Engine
•
•
•
starts,
but
stops
immediately
Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit - petrol
models (Chapter 1A or 5B)
Vacuum leak at the throttle housing or inlet manifold - petrol
models (Chapter 4A)
Blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Engine
idles
erratically
T' Air filier element clogged (Chapter 1A or 1B)
C.I Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
•
Wom, faulty or Incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1A)
•
Uneven or low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
Camshaft lobes wom (Chapter 2A, 2B, 20 or 2D)
•
Blocked injectors/fuel Injection system feift (Chapter 4A or 4B)
REF.18
Fault finding
Engine (continued)
Engine
misfires
at idle
speed
•
Worn, faulty or Incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - patrol models
(Chapter 1A)
•
Vacuum leak at the throttie housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
•
Blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B]
•
Faulty iniectcr(s) - diesel models (Chapter 48}
•
Uneven or low cyiinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 20}
•
Disconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapter 4C}
Engine
misfires
tftroughout
the driving
speed
range
•
•
Fuelfiiterchoked(ChapterlAorlB)
Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low - petrol models
(Chapter 4A}
•
Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C}
•
Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petnal models (Chapter 4A1
• Worn, faulty or inconectiy-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1 A)
•
Faulty injectorls) - diesel models (Chapter 4B)
Zi Faulty ignition module - petrol models (Chapter 5B)
•
Uneven or low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D}
•
Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
•
Blocked catalytic converter (Chapter 4A or 4B}
•
Engine overheating (Chapter 3)
Engine
hesitates
on
acceleration
•
Worn, faulty or inconectiy-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1A!
\Z Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
G Blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B}
•
Faulty lnjector(s) - diesel models (Chapter 4B)
Engine
stalls
•
Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A!
•
Fuel filter choked (Chapfffl- 1A or IB)
•
Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low - petrol models
(Chapter 4A)
•
Fuel lank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C)
•
Blocked injectors/fuei injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
•
Faulty injector(s) - diesel models (Chapter 4B)
Engine
laclts
power
• Air filter element blocked (Chapter 1A or 1B)
•
Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1A or 1B)
•
Fuel pipes blocked or restnoted (Chapter 4A. 4B or 4C)
•
Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1 A)
•
Engine overheating (Chapter 3)
•
Accelerator pedal position sensor faulty (Chapter 4A or 4B)
•
Vacuum leak at Ihe throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
•
Blocked injectors/fuel injeclion system fault {Chapter 4A or 4B)
n
Faulty ln|ector(s} - diesel models (Chapter 4B}
n
Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low - petrol models
(Chapter 4A)
i . Uneven or low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
Blocked catalytic converter (Chapter 4A or 4B)
•
Br^esbinding(Chaptar1A,1Bor9)
•
Clutch slipping (Chapter 6)
Engine
bacltfires
: Vacuum leak at ttie throttle housing, inlet rr
)r associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
n
Blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A oi
3r4B}
n
Blocked catalytic converter (Chapter 4A or 4B}
]J Faulty ignition module - petrol models (Chapter 5B]
Oil pressure
running
warning
light
illuminated
with
engine
Low oil level, or incorrect oil grade (see Weekly checks)
Faulty oil pressure sensor, or wiring damaged (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C
or 2D}
I ! Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D
or2q
LH High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3}
II Oil pump pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
LI Oil pump pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
•
Engine
runs-on
after
switching
off
" ! Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D
or2E}
I 1 High engine opwating temperature (Chapter 3}
; ; Fuel injection/engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
•4C)
Engine
noises
>r knocking during acceleration or
•
•
^
_i
r I
. ,
r ;
n
Ignition system/engine management system fault - petrol models
(Chapter 1 A, 4A or 5B)
incorrect grade of spai1< plug - petrol models (Chapter 1 A)
Incomect grade of fuel (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Knock sensor faulty - petrol models (Chapter 4A or 5B)
Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A}
Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D
or2E)
Fuel injection/engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
or 40)
Faulty injector(s) - diesel models (Chapter 4B}
Whistling or wlieezing noises
r I Leaking inlet manifold or throttle housing gasket - petrol models
(Chapter 4A)
n
Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe-to-man ifold joint
(Chapter 4A or 4B}
L i Leaking vacuum hose (Chapter 4A, 4B, 40 or 9)
!!,• Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
n
Partially blocked or leaking crankcase venUlation system (Chapter 4C)
Tapping or rattìing noises
•
Z
Worn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
Ancillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc) (Chapter 3, 5A, etc)
Knocking or thumping noises
," , Worn big-end beanngs (regular heavy knocking, peitiaps less
under load) (Chapter 2E)
l_i Worn main t>earings (mmbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under toad) (Chapter 2E)
LH Piston slap - most noticeable when cold, caused by piston/bore
wear (Chapter 2E)
• Ancillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc) (Chapter 3, 5A, etc)
U Engine mountings worn or defective (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
Front suspension or steering components worn (Ctiapter 10)
Fault finding
REF.I9
Cooling system
Overheating
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
External
Insufficient coolani in system (see Weekly checks)
Thermostat faulty (Cliapter 3)
Radiator corefciiocKed,or grille restricted (Chapter 3)
Cooling fan or cooling module faulty (Chapter 3)
Inaccurate coolant temperature sensor (Chapter 3)
Airlock in cooling system (ChapterIA, I B or3)
Expansion tank pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3)
Engine management system fault {Chapter 4A, 4B or 4i
I I
L..!
•
•
•
•
•
Internal
•
•
Overcooling
C
•
•
•
Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3)
Inaccurate coolant temperature sensor (Ch^ter 3)
Cooling fan faulty (Chapter 3)
Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B or
coolant
leakage
Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1A or 1B)
Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (ChaptwS)
Expansion lank pressure cap tajlty (Chapter lA or 1B)
Coolant pump internal seal leaking (Chapter 3)
Coolant pump g a ^ e t leaking (Chapter 3)
Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3)
Cylinder block core plug leaking (Chapter 2E)
coolant
leakage
Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A, 2B. 2C or 2D)
Cracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapter aA, 2B, 2C, 2D
or2E)
Corrosion
•
•
Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1A or 1B)
Inconect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (see
Weekly checks)
Fuel and exhaust systems
Excessive
•
•
•
n
•
•
•
fuel
consumption
Fuel
Air filter element dirty or clogged {Chapter 1A or 1B)
Fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C)
Crankcase ventilation system blocked (Chapter 4C)
Tyres under-inflated (see WeeWychecfcs)
Brakes binding (ChapterIA, I B or 9)
Fuel leak, causing apparent high consumption
(ChapterIA, IB, 4A, 4B or4C)
leakage
and/or
fuel
odour
•
Damaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapter 4A
or4B)
•
Evaporative emissions system fault - petrol models {Chapter 4C)
Excessive
noise or fumes
from exhaust
system
•
Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapter 1A, 1B, 4A
or4B)
•
Leaking, oomoded or damaged ^lencers or pipe
(Chapter1A,1B,4Aor4B)
•
Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact
(Chapter1A,1B,4Aor4B)
Clutch
Pedal travels
resistance
to floor
- no pressure
or very
little
•
Air in hydraulic system/faulty master oi
ie cylinder (Chap-
•
•
•
•
Faulty hydraulic release system (Chapter 6)
Clutch pedal return spring detached or broken (Chapter 6)
Faulty clutch release cylinder (Chapter 6)
Broken diaptw^gm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6)
Clutch
falls to disengage
(unable
to select
gears)
• Air in hydraulic system/faulty master or release cylinder (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty hydraulic release system (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc sticking on transmission input shaft splines (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chaptw6)
Cftrtc/i slips (engine
speed increases,
with
no
increase
in vehi<^e
speed)
•
Faulty hydraulic release system (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc linings excessively wom (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6)
Judder
as clutch
is
engaged
•
Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc linings excessively wom (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6),
•
Worn or loose engine or transmission mountings
{Chapt^2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
Clutch disc hub or transmission input shaft splines wom (Chapter 6)
Noise when depressing
or releasing
clutch
•
Faulty clutch release cylinder (Chapter 6)
•
Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6)
•
Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6)
•
Broken clutch disc cushioning springs (Chapter 6)
pedal
Fault finding
Manual and Easytronic transmissions
Note: Fault finding for the Easytronic transmission srtouW h
Jumps
to a Vauxhall/Opei dealer
r i Worn, damaged, or poorly-adjusted gearchange (Chapter 7 ^
n
Worn synchron ser units (Chapter 7A)'
•
Worn selector forks (Chapter 7A)'
Noisy
in neutral
witii
engine
running
n
Lack of oil (Chapter 7A)
C 1 Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7A)'
n
Clutch release cylinder faulty (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6)
Noisy
[
in one particular
gear
Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7 / y
Difficulty
engaging
gears
a Clutch fault (Chapter 6)
•
Worn, damaged, or pootly-adtusted gearchange (Chapter 7A)
•
U c k of oii (Chapter 7A)
•
Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A)*
out
of
gear
Vibration
[j
Lacit of oil (Chapter 7A)
•
Worn bearings (Chapter 7A)*
iMbricant
lealcs
r_ Leaking driveshaft or selector shaft oil seal (Chapter 7Ai
Z Leaking housing joint (Chapter 7A)*
•
Leaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7A)'Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful In isolating the cause of the condition, so
mat the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.
Automatic transmission
Note: Due to fhe complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
for the home mechanic tot properly diagnose and senrice this unit. For b) Indicator panel indicating a gear other than the one actually being
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken lo a
used.
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist IDo not
0) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
be too hasty in removing the transmission if a fault is suspected, as
d) P(K>r gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
most of the testing is carried out with the unit still fitted. Remember
Ti^nsmission
will not downshift
(kickdown)
with
that, besides the sensors specific to the transmission, many of the
accelerator
pedal fuliy
depressed
engine management system sensors described in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4 are essential to the con-ect operation ofthe transmission.
•
Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 7B)
•
Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Fluid
lealfage
i n Faulty transmission sensor or wiring (Chapter 7B)
LI Automatic transmission fluid is usually dark red in colour Fluid
U Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B)
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
Engine
will not start in any gear, or starts in
gears
blown onto the transmission by airflow.
other than Park or
Neutral
•
To detennine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-clean Ing. Drive tbe vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak tar from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
trom. The foiiowing are common areas of leakage:
a) Fluid pan
b) Dipstick lube (Chapter 7B)
c) Transmission-to-fluid cooler unions (Chapter IB)
Itansmlssion
•
fluid
brown,
or has burned
smell
Transmission fluid level low (Chapter 7B)
General
gear selection
problems
C Chapter 78 deals with checking the selector cable on automatic
transmissions. The following are common problems which may be
caused by a faulty cable or sensor
Zl Faulty transmission sensor or wiring (Chapter 7B)
I ] Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
L I Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B)
Ti-ansmission
slips,
no drive In forward
shifts roughly,
Is noisy,
or reverse
gears
or
has
Z Transmission fluid level low (Chapter 7B)
LJ Faulty transmission sensor or wiring (Chapter 7B)
•
Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Note: There are many probable causes for the above problems, but
diagnosing and correcting them is considered beyond the scope of
this manual. Having checked the fluid level and all the wihng as far as
possible, a dealer or transmission spedalist should be consulted If the
problem persists.
Fault finding
REF.2I
Driveshafts
Wbratlon
when accelerating
or d e c e j
•
Worn inner constant velocity joint (Ctiapter 8)
•
Bent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8)
•
Wom intennediate shaft laearing (Chapter 8)
Clicking
or
on
full-lock)
U
•
knocking noiso
on turns
(at slow
speed
Worn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8)
Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged
gaiter (Chapter 8)
Braking system
Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the
tyres are in good condition and correctly Inflated, that the front wheel
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in
an unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the anti-lock braking system
s/iouW be referr^ (o a Vauxhall/Opel dealer for diagnosisVehicle pulls to one side under
braking
C Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated brake pads on one
side (Chapter l A , 1 B o r 9)
•
•
•
•
Seized or partially-seized brake caliper piston (Chapter 1A. IB or 9)
A mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides
(ChapterIA, I B or 9)
Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9)
Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapter 1A, I B or 10)
N o / s e (grinding
or high-pitohad
squeal)
when
•
Brake pad wear sensor Indtoating wom brake pads (Chapter 1A, 1B
or 9)
•
Brake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing
(Chapter 1A,1Bcr 9)
C! Excessive corrosion cf brake disc (may be apparent after the
vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapter 1 A. 1B or 9)
•
Foreign ob/ect (stone chipping, etc) trapped between brake disc
and shield (Chapter 1 A, 1B or 9)
Excessive
brake
pedal
travel
•
Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9)
•
Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 1 A, 1B, 6 or 9)
LI Faulty vacuum servo unrt (Chapter 9)
Brake pedal feels spongy
when
depressed
n Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 1 A, 1B, 6 or 9)
•
Deteriorated flexible njbber brake hoses (Chapter lA, 1B or 9)
C.J Master cyHnder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9)
•
Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9)
Excessive
vehicle
brake
pedal
effort
required
to
stop
r "I Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9)
n
Faulty vacuum pump - diesel models (Chapter 9)
•
Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapter 9)
L J Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9)
U Seized brake caliper piston (Chapter 9)
I J Brake pads incomectly fitted (Chapter 9)
LJ incon-ect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 9)
_• Brake pad linings contaminated (Chapter 1 A, I B or 9)
Judder
when
felt through
braking
brake
pedal
or steering
wheel
Note: Under heavy braking on vehicles equipped with ABS, vibration
may be felt through the brake pedal. This is a nonnal feature of ABS
operation, and does not constitute a fault
•
Excessive oin-out or distortion ot discs (Chapter 1 A, IB or 9)
•
Brake pad linings worn (Chapter 1 A, I B or 9)
n Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9)
[J Wear In suspension or steering components or mountings
(ChapterIA, I B or 10)
•
Front wheels out of balance (see Weekly checks)
Brakes
binding
•
Seized brake caliper piston (Chapter 9)
•
Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9)
Rear
wheels
locking
under
normal
braking
•
Rear brake pad linings contaminated or damaged (Chapter 1 or 9)
•
Rear brake discs warped (Chapter 1 or 9)
REF.22
Fault finding
Suspension and steering
Noter Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, tie sure that ttie
trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, or
tending brakes.
Excessively-stiff
Vehicle pulls to one
side
•
Defective tyre (see IVeeWy Czechs)
n Excessive wear In suspension or steenng components (Chapter1A,1Bor10)
•
Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10)
CI Accident damage to steenng or suspension components (Chapter 1A or IB)
•
•
n
Wheel
wobble
and
vibration
r I front wheels out of balance (vibration feit mainly through the
steering wheel) (see Weekiy cfiecks)
C l^ear wheels out of laalance (vibration felt throughout the vehicle)
(see Weekly checks)
•
Roadwheels damaged or distorted (see Weekly checks)
•
Faulty or damaged tyre (see Weekly checks)
•
Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter lA, IB or 10)
•
Wheelboltsloose(ChapterlAorlB)
Excessive
or during
n
•
•
pitching
braking
and/or
roiling
around
corners,
Defective shocK absorbers (Chapter 1 A, 1B or 10)
Broken or weak spring and/or suspension component (Chapter 1A, I B or 10)
Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 1A, IB
or 10)
V^ndaring
or general
instability
[ I Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10)
n Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 1A, IB or 10)
•
Roadwheels out of balance (see l-VeeWy checks)
•
Faulty or damaged tyre (see Weekly checks)
•
Wheel bolts loose (Chapter 1A or IB)
•
Defective shock absort>ers (Chapter 1 A, 1B or 10)
•
Power steering system fault (Chapter 10)
steering
Seized steenng linkage balljoint or suspension t>alijoint (Chapter 1A, I B or 10)
Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10)
Steehng rack damaged (Chapter 10)
Power steering system fault (Chapter 10)
Excessive
play In
steering
•
Wom steehng column/intermediate shaft joints (Chapter 10)
n Wom track rod balljoints (Chapter 1A, I B o r l O )
Z Worn steering rack (Chapter 10)
1 I Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 1 A, I B or 10}
L a c l r of power
assistance
' I Power steering system fault (Chapter 10)
L I Faulty steering rack {Chapter 10)
Tyre wear
excessive
Tyres worn on inside or outside edges
M Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges} (see Weekly checks)
LJ Inconect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only}
(Chapter 10)
I I Wom steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter1A,1Bor10)
U Excessively-hard cornering or braking
U Accident damage
Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges
Z_ Inconect toe-setting (Chapter 10)
Tyres wom in centre of tread
•
Tyres over-inflated (see Weekly checks)
Tyres worn on inside and outside edges
IJ Tyres under-inflated (see Weekly checks)
Tyres wom unevenly
LI
[ "!
C
•
Tyres/wheels out of balance (see Weekly checks)
Excessive wheel or tyre run-out
Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 1 A, 1B or 10)
Faulty tyre (see Week^ checte)
Electrical system
Note; For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the
faults listed under 'Engine' earlier in this Section.
Ignition/no-charge
illuminated
with
Battery
will not hold a charge
for more than a few
days
[
Battery defective internally (Chapter 5A}
L i Battery terminal connections loose or corroded {see Weekly checks)
r I Auxiliary drivebelt worn or faulty automatic adjuster (Chapter 1A
or IB)
•
Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5A)
[J Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5A}
•
Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapter 5A or 12)
•
warning
iight i
engine
running
la/ns
Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or or faulty automatic adjuster
(Chapter 1A or IB}
I I Intemal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5A}
L I Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chapter 5A or 12)
Ignition/no-charge
warning
light
fails
to come
I I Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 121
r i Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring In warning light circuit
(Chapter 5A or 12)
•
Alternator faulty (Chapter
on
Fault finding
REF.23
Electrical system (continued)
Ughts
inoperative
•
•
•
•
•
Bulb blown (Chapter 12)
Conoslon of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12)
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty switch (Chapter 12)
Instrument
readings
inaccurate
or
erratic
Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous
maximum reading
Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapter 3 or 4)
•
Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty gauge (Chapter 12)
Horn
inoperative,
or unsatisfactory
In
operation
Horn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 12)
•
Hom cable-to-hom push earthed (Chapter 12)
•
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
•
Cable or connections loose, bnsken or disconnected (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty horn (Chapter 12)
Hom fails to operate
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound
or
unsatisfactory
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly
•
•
•
•
•
Wipw blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding
(Chapter 12)
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
Battery discharged (Chapter 5A)
Cable or connections loose, broken or disconnectea (Chapter 12)
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
Faultywipermotor(Chapter12)
Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
the glass
•
Wiper blades inconectly frtted, or wrong size used (see Weekly
checks)
•
Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 12)
•
Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12)
•
Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12)
Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively
•
•
•
•
or
•
Blocked washer jet
•
Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12)
•
Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (se© We^ly checks)
•
•
•
•
Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12)
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12)
Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12)
Washer pump mns for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets
in
Window glass will only move in one direction
•
•
inoperative,
operation
•
Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12)
Electric
windows
inoperative,
or unsatisfactory
operation
Hom operates all the time
[ I Cable connections loose (Chapter 12)
LI Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty hom (Chapter 12)
Windscreen
wipers
inoperative,
in
operation
washers
in
One o r more w a s h e r jets inoperative
Washer pump fails to operate
Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading
•
Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapter 3 or 4)
• Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty gauge (Chapter 12}
•
Windscreen
unsatisfactory
Wiper blade rubbers dirty, worn or perished (see Weekly checks)
Wiper blades incon-ecfly fitted, or wrong size used (see Weekly
checks)
Wiper ami tension springs broken, or ann pivots seized (Chapter 12)
Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road
film (see Weekly checks)
•
Faulty switch (Chapter 12)
•
•
Battery discharged (Chapter 5A)
Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication (Chapter
11)
•
Door intemal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11)
•
Faulty motor (Chapter 11)
Window glass slow to move
Window
glass falls to move
•
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
•
Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12)
•
Fauttymotor(Chapter11)
Central
locking
system
inoperaUve,
or
unsatisfactory
in
operation
C o m p l e t e s y s t e m failure
•
Remote handset battery discharged, where applicable (Chapter 1A
or IB)
•
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
•
Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty motor (Chapter 11)
Latch locks but will not unlocic, or unlocks but will not lock
•
•
•
Remote handset battery discharged, where applicable (Chapter 1A
or IB)
Faulty master switch (Chapter 12)
Broken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter
11)
•
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty motor (Chapter 11)
One solenoid/motor falls to operate
•
•
•
•
Bmken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12)
Faulty operating assembly (Chester 11)
Broken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 11)
Faunindoorlatch(Chapter1l]
REF.26
Glossary of technical terms
ABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
Incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in Ihe
steering wheel (driver's side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the driver
and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air fitter element The actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-selze compound
A coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subiected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
Anti-selze compound
A natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.
Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
Iransmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
Air filter
WIen key A hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
Alternator A component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
ctiarge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
Alternator (exploded view)
Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealer A substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widelv used.
A substance (usually ethyli
with V
:ol) r
J to
. cooling system, to prevent freezing
coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to Inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits that
Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearing The bearing in the end of
fhe connecting rod that's attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air, Aso called a bleed screw.
Axle assembly
Axleahaft A single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshafl.
An anti-friction beanng
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.
Brake bleeding
Brake bleeding Procedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake disc The component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake drum The component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake Ilnlngs The friction matenal which
contacts the brake disc or dnjm to retard the
vehicle's speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake pads The replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
dnjm during braking.
Braking systems For more information on
braking systems, consult fhe Haynes
Automotive Brake l^anual.
Breaker bar A long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
Bulkhead The insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
Caliper The non-rotating part ot a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and cames
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied, A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be
set to measure inside or outside din
of an object.
Glossary of technical terms
Camshaft A rotating shaft on w
of cam lobes operate the valve i
The camshaft may be driven by gears, b]
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and i
belt.
Canister A container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
Charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
Canister
Carburettor A device which mixes fuel with
air In the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
Intemal combustion engine.
Catalytic converter A siiencer-like device in
tho exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful
Catalytic converter
Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed In a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits
into a groove on the outsiae ot a cylindrical
piece such as a shaft.
Clearance The amount ot space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coll spring A spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
Compression Reduction in volume, and
increase In pressure and temperature, of a
gas. caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratio The relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) joint A type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal
device inserted in a hole in a casting through
which core was removed when the casting
was formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug,
Crankcase The lower part of the engine
block In which the crankshaft rotates.
Crankshaft The main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset "throws" to which the connecting
lods are attached.
Castellated nut
Ceslor In wheel alignment, the backward o
forward tilt cf the steering axis. Castor U
positive when the steering axis is Inclines
rearward at the top.
Crankshaft assembly
REF»27
Crocodile clip See Alligator clip
Diagnostic code Code numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used tc determine the area In the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brake A brake design Incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle Into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC) An engine
that uses two overhead camshatts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves,
Drlvebelt(s)
The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc, oft the crankshaft pulley.
Accessoiy drivebelts
Driveshaft
Any shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used wtien referring to the
; front wheel drive vehicle.
Drivesliaft
Drum brake A type of brake using a drumshaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
REF.2B
Glossary of technical terms
to introduce extiaust
Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
electrode In a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assemblv in a conventional oointstype ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor cr rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
Gasket Any thin, soft mateoal - usually cork,
cardboanJ. asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces tc ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
EGR valve
Electronic control unit (ECU) A computer
which controls (tor instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more Information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brake
A braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle it
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake peda! isn't
depressed, tt usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.
Endfloat
The amount of lengthwise
movement Iwtween two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS] A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifold
A part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
Feeler blade
Firing order The order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
Free play The amount of travel before any
action takes place. The "looseness" in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
Fuse An electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The
typical fuse contains a soft piece of metal
which is calibrated to melt at a predetermined
current flow (expressed as amps) and break
the circuit.
Fusible link A circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.
Gap The distance the spark must travel Ir
Jumping fnam the centre electrode to thi
Fan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine tan
Speeds In relation to engine speeds.
Adjusting sparli plug
Gasket
Gauge An instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions, A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale Is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a
readout Is called a digital gauge.
H
Halfshaft A rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancer A device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
Hone An abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappet A tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine's
lunricaiion system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valvo stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
In valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
ve noise.
Ignition timing The moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
nisTon reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifold A tube or housing with
through which flows the air-fuel
mixturi! (carburettor vehicles and vehicles
with throttle body injection) or air only ftiort
luei iniected vehicles] to the port openings In
the cylinder head.
Glossary of technical terms
Jump start Starting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weal< battery by
attaching jump leads irom the weak batlmy to
a charged or helper battery.
Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)
A brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
canied by the rear axle.
Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position,
Lockwasher A form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
M
MacPherson
strut
A type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut an integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modem so-called MacPherson
strot systems use a conventional iower A-arm
and don't rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
Multimoter An electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
N
NOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
Ohm The unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm wilt
produce a current of one amp.
Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-rlng A type of sealing ring made of a
special robber-like material; in use, the O-ring
Is compressed into a groove to provide the
g action.
Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overtwad valve (ohv) engine An engine with
the vaives located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located \n the engine block.
Oxygen sensor A device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
Phillips screw A t ^ e of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver,
Plastlgage A thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip ot Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
cnjshed stnp indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
REF-29
Rocker arm A lever ann that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Rotor In a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer temiinals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stater. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
Runout The amount of wobble |Jn-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it's rotated.
The ^ o u n t a shaft rotates "out-of-tme." The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
Sealant A liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lamp An older headlight
design which integrates the refiector, lens and
filaments into a hermetic ally-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament bums out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that's used on some
newer vehicles fo drive ali the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts ate usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
Propeller shaft The long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valve A hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
Rack-and-pinion steering
A steering
system with a pinion gear on the end of the
steering shaft that mates with a rack (think of
a geared wheel opened up and laid flat).
When the steering wheel is turned, the pinion
turns, moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system,
H 12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance lhat is considered less harmful to
the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Serpentine drivebelt
Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims insetted info or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness ot the shim.
Slide hammer A special puiier that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or beating; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
Sprocket A tooth or projection on the
periphery ot a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
REF'30
Glossary of technical terms
Starter intiibitor swLtct) On vehicles wllh an
automatic transmission, a switch that
prevents starting it the vehicle is not in Neutral
or Parli.
Strut See MacPherson stnjt.
Tappet
A cylindrical component which
transmits motion from the cam to the valve
stem, either directly or via a pushrod and
rocker arm. Also called a cam follower.
Thennostat A heat-controlled valve that
regulates the flow of coolant between the
cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining
optimum engine operating temperature. A
thermostat Is also used in some air cleaners in
which the temperature is regulated.
Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutch
assembly that is moved in to the release
levers by clutch pedal action to disengage the
clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.
Timing belt A toothed belt which drives the
camshaft. Serious engine damage may result
if it breaks in service.
Timing chain A c h ^ n which drives the
camshaft.
Toe-in The amount the front wheels are
closer together at fhe front than at the rear.
On rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount
of toe-in Is usually specrtied to keep the front
wheels running parallel on the road by
offsetting other forces that tend to spread the
wheels apart.
Toe-out The amount the front wheels are
closer together at the rear than at the front.
On tront wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount
of toe-out is usually specified.
Tools For full Information on choosing and
using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive
Tools ManualTracer A stripe of a second colour applied to
a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from
another one with the same colour insulator.
Tune-up A process of accurate and careful
adjustments and parts replacement to obtain
the best possible engine performance.
Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven by
exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.
Normally used to increase the power output
from a given engine displacement, but can
also be used primarily to reduce exhaust
emissions [as on VW's "Umwelt" Diesel
engine).
may be started, stopped, or regulated by a
movable part that opens, shuts, or partially
obstructs one or more ports or passageways.
A valve is also the movable part of such a
device.
Valve clearance The clearance t>etween the
valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the
rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is
measured when the valve is closed.
Vernier caliper
A precision measuring
instrument that measures inside and outside
dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a
micrometer, but more convenient.
Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or its
resistance to flow.
Volt
A unit tor expressing electrical
"pressure" in a circuit. One volt that will
produce a current of one ampere through a
resistance of one ohm.
U
W
Welding
Universal joint or U-joint A double-pivoted
connection for transmitting power from a
driving to a driven shaft through an angle. A
U-joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a
cross-shaped member called the spider.
Valve A device through which the flow of
liquid, gas. vacuum, or loose material In bulk
Various processes used to join
metal items by heating the areas to be joined
to a molten state and fusing them together.
For more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Welding Manual.
Wiring diagram A drawing portraying the
components and wires in a vehicle's electrical
system, using standardised symbols. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems
Manual.
Index
REF-31
Note: References througtiout tNs index are in the fomi •Chapter number" • "Page number". So, far example. 2C*15 relets to page 15 al ChapterZH.
A-pillar trim panel - 11 -23
Absolute pressure sensor - 4A*12
Accelerator pedal/position sensor - 4A»3, 4B*4
Accessory shops - REF»7
Acknowledgements - 0-4
Adaptive Forward Lighting (AFL) headlight - 1 2 - 6
Aerial-12*15
AircondJtioningsystem-3*12. 3*13
service ports-3»13
switch-12»4
Air dtstributlon housing - 3>12
Air(ilter-1A»14,1B»12, 4A»3, 4B»4
Air Intake ducts ~ 4A»3, 48*4
Airvents-3.9,11-29
A i r b a g s - 0 . 5 , 12-16
Airflow meter - 4A'8, 4A-12, 4B»5
Alarm system - 12'15
Alternator - 5A-6, 5A"B
Antifreeze - 0«12. O-l?. 1A-14,1B«12
Anti-lock Braking-9»15
Anti-roll b a r - 1 D - n , 10-15
Anti-theft alarm system - 12-15
Asbestos - 0-5
Ashtray Illumination-12-8
Automatic transmission - 7B-1 et seq
fault finding-REF-20
fluid-C.17, 7B-2
Auxiliary control arm - 1 0 - 1 4
Auxiliary drfvebelt-1A*12,18*10
tensioner - 5A-5
Axle b o d y - 1 0 - 1 5
B
B-pillar trim panel-11-24
Badges-11-21
Balance s h a f t - 2 B - 1 6
chain and sprockets - 2B-9, 2B-10
chain tensioner - 2B-7
B a t t e r y - 0 - 5 , 0 - 1 5 . 5A-3. REF-9
remote control-1 A-13,1B-11
Big-end beaHngs - 2E-15
Bleeding
brakes-9-2
clutch-6-2
fuel system - 4B-4
power steering fluid - 1 0 - 1 7
Blower m o t o r - 3 - 1 0 , 3 - 1 1
switch-12-4
Body electrical systems - 12*1 etseq
Bodywork and fittings - 11 -1 ef seq
corrosion-REF.15
damage- 1A-10,1B'8
Bonnet-11-6
Boost pressure sen SOT - 4B-6
Boot l l d - 1 1 - 1 6
centre trim panel - 1 1 -26
Braking system - 1 A - 1 1 , 9 - 1 et seq. REF-12, REF-13, REF-I
calipers - 1A-9.1B-8, 9-9. 9-10
discs-1A-9,18-8. 9-8
fault finding - REF-21
fluid-0-13, 0-17,1A»13, 1B-11
pads-1A-9,1B-8, 9-4, 9-7
pipes and hoses - 1A-9, 1B
B u l b s - 12'4, 12-8
Bumpers-11-4,11-5
Buying spare parts - REF-7
C-pHlartrim panel-11-25
Cables
bonnet release-11-6
gear selector - 7A-6
gear selector - 7B-3,78-4,9-14
Calipers- 1A-9,18*8, g»9, 9-10
Camshafts - 2A-12, 28-11. 2C-10, 2D-10
chain and sprc>ckets - 2B-8,2B-9
chain lensioner - 28*6
cover - 2A-5, 2B-4, 2C-5
housing - 2D-9
oil seals - 2A-11, 2C-9,2D-9
sensor-4A-8, 4A-9, 4A-12, 4B-6
sprockets - 2 A - 9 , 2A-10. 2C-7. 2D-7
Carpets-11-2
Catalytic converter - 4A-15,4B-17,4C-3,4C-5
temperature sensor - 4C-3
CD player-12-14
Centre console - 1 1 * 2 7
Chain tensioner and guide rails - 2B*8
Changeover flap actuator drive - 4B'14
Charcoal canister - 4C-2
Charge (boost) pressure sertsor - 4B-6
Charging - 5A-3, 5A.5
Cigarette lighter-12-12
illumination - 12-8
Clutch-6^^ etseq
fault finding-REF-19
fluid-0*13, 0-17,1A.8, 1A.13, 1B-11
module (Easytronic transmission) - 7C-4
Colt spring-10*13
.n test - 2A*4, 28*3, 2C-3, 2D-3
)r-3*13
Condenser-3* 14
Connecting rods-2E*12, 2E-14. 2E-18
Console-11-27
Control arm - 10-13,10-14
Conversion lactors - REF-6
Coolant-Q-1?, 0-17, 1A-13,1B-11
pump - 3-7
temperature sensor - 3-6
Cooling, heating and air conditmning systems - 3*1 etseq
fault finding-REF-19
Cornering bulb - 1 2 - 6
Corrosion protection - 1A*10,1B*8
Courtesy I i 9 h t - 1 2 * 8
Crankcase emission control - 4C»2, 4C-3
Crankshaft-2E-13, 2E-15, 2E*17
oil seals-2A*19, 28*16, 2C-15,2D-15
position sensor ~-4A*9
pulley - 2A-6, 28-4, 2C-6, 2D-5
sensor-4A.8,4A-12,4B-6
sprocl?5
Dents-11*2
Depressurisation fuel injecthon system - 4A«3
Diesel engine fault finding - REF-17
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
1.9 litre DOHC - 2D'1 ef seq
1.9 litre SOHC - 2C»1 et seq
Diesel injection equipment - 0»5, 4B»3
Differential pressure sensor - 4C»4
Dimensions - REF-1
Dipped beam - 12*4,12-6
Disconnecting the battery - REF»9
Discs-1A»9.1B»8, 9*8
Doors - 11 -7,11 »9,11 • ! 3, REF»13
Drivebelt-1A»12,18*10
ten^oner - 5A-S
Driveplate-2B-16, 20-15
Driver's side lower trim panel - 11 «30
Driveshafts - 1A»9, 1B>8, 8-1 efseq, REF«14
fault finding - REF»21
gaiters-8»4
oil seals-7A.7. 7B.6, 7C-4
Drivetraln-1A.11
Earth f a u l t - 1 2 . 2
Easytronic tran
^-7C^^ et seq
fault finding - REF-20
011-0*17, 7C»2
EGR valve-4C»3, 4C»4
heat exchanger - 4C»4. 4C»5
Electric s h o c k - 0 * 5
Electricalsy8tems-0*16,1A-11.1B-8, REF»13
fault finding -12«2, REF»22, REF«23
Electro-hydraulic power Steering (EHPS) supply unit-10*18
Electronic control unit (ECU)
ABS-9.16
automatic transmission - 7B»7
fuel system - 4A»8, 4A'9, 4A.12, 4B.7
Emission confro/systems- 1AM4,1B-12. 4C'1 ef seq, REF-IS
Engine codes - REF*7
Engine o i l - 0 - 1 2 . 0'17,1A»7,1B»6
Engine reconditioners - REF»7
Engine removal and overhaul procedures - 2E*1 etseq
fault finding - REF-17, REF'18
Environmental considerations - REF*8
n control-4C«2
ir-3-13
Exhaust
IS - 1A.1 1B.12, 4C'2, 4C»3
Exhaust
recirculation system - 4C»2,4C«3, 40*4
Exhaust
iifOld-4A-14, 4B"15
Exhaust specialists - REF«7
Exhaust system - 1A»10,1B»8, 4A»15, 4B«17, REF»14, REF«15
Facia panel-11*28
switches-12«4
braking system-REF*21
clutch-REF»19
cooling system - REF*19
diesel engine-REF'17
driveshafts - REF«21
Easytronic transmission - REF«20
electrical system - 1 2 * 2 , REF»22, REF-23
engine-REF.17, REF*18
fuel and exhaust systems - REF»19
manual transmission - REF»20
suspension and steering - REF'22
Filling-11*3
Filter
air- 1A-14,1B»12, 4A«3, 4B»4
fuel-1A«16,1B«7,1B«8,4B»5
oil - 1A*7,1B«6,2C«14, 2D»15
particulate - 4B»17,4C«3, 4C»4
pollen-1A»11,1B«8
Fii»-0>5
nuid c o o l e r - 7 B . 6
Fluids-0.17
leaks-1A.8,1B.7
Flywheel - 2A.19. 2B.16, 2C.16, 2D.15
Foglight-12-6, 12.9
Followers - 2A-12, 2B.11, 2C.1D, 2D.12
Footwell trim panel - 11 -24, 11.29
Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel engines - 4B.1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems - petrol engines - 4A> 1 ef seq
fault finding - REF'ig
Fuel economy - REF.2 et seq
Fuelfilter-1A.16, IB-S
crasin box - 4B.5
water draining - 1B'7
Fuel gauge sender unit - 4A.4. 4B'4
Fuel injection systems - 4A.6, 4A-7, 4B.3
electrical components - 4B.5
Fuel Injectors - 4A.7, 4A.8, 4A.10, 4B*10
Fuel pressure regulator - 4A.11, 4B.6
Fuel pressure sensor - 4A.11. 4B.6
Fuel pump - 4B-4. 4B.7. 4A.5, 4A.11
Fuel pump sprocket - 2C*8, 2D.7
Fuel rail - 4A.7, 4A.8, 4A.10. 4B.8
Fuel s y s t e m - R E F . l 5
Fuel t a n k - 4 A - 5 . 4B.5
Fume or gas intoxication - 0.5
Fuses-12'3
Gaiters
drive^afts - 8*4
steering gear-10«19
Garages - REF.7
Ga^es-11*3
Gaskets - REF.8
of technical terms - BEF.26 ef seg
Index
Note: References tfirougfiout this Index are in the forni "Chapter number" • "Page number". So, for example, 2C*1S ref&s to page 15 ofChapter2G.
Glovebox-11-28
light-12.9
Glow plugs (diesel engine models) - 5A-11
Grille - 11-20
H
Halogen headlight - 1 2 - 4
Handbrake - 9-13, 9-14.9-15, REF-12
Handles (doors) - 11-9
Headlight- 12-4, 12-9
beam alignment - lA-11,1B-8,12-11
Heatshield(s)-4A-15, 4B-17
Heated rear window switch ~ 12-4
Heated seat components - 12-16
Heater/ventllatlon system - 3-9
blower motor-3-10,3-11
contnsl assembly-3-12
matrix-3-11
motor switch-12-4
High-level stop-fight-12-7,12-10
High-pressure diesel Infection system - 4
High-pressure fuel pump - 4A-11, 4B-7
sprocket-2C-8, 2D-7
Hinge lubrication - 1 A-11,16-8
Horn-12-12
H o s e s - 1A-9,1B-8, 3-2, 9-3
leaks-1A-8,1B-7
Hub-10-4
ls-10-6,10-11
Hydraulic modulator (ABS) - 9-16
Hydrofluoric acid - 0-5
Identifying l e a k s - 0 * 9
Idler pulleys - 2A-10, 2A-11, 2C-9, 2D»8
Ignition switch-10-16
Ignition system - petrol engines - 56-1 ef seg
Indicators - 12-5. 12-6,12-9
Information display u n i t - 1 2 - 1 2
Injectors - 4A-7, 4A-8, 4A-10, 4B*10
Inlet manifold - 4A-12,4B-12
changeover flap actuator drive-4B»14
Input shaft
oil seal - 7A.7
speed sensors-7B»7
Instmment panel - 12-12
Intake ducts - 4A-3, 4B-4
lntercooler-4B»14
Intermediate shaft - 8-3.8-4
Jacking and vehicle support - REF-g
Joint mating faces - REF-8
Jump starting - 0*7
K
Knock sensor - 4A-8, 4A*9,4A*12
I
|_
l^akdowm test - 2C*3, 2D-3
Leaks-0*9, lA-8- 1B-7
Light u n i t s - 1 2 - 9
Lighting switch-12*3
Locknuts, locktabs and washers Locks
bonnet-11*6
bootlid-11»16
doors-11-9
lubrication-1A-11, 1B-8
selector lever - 7B'6
steering column-10-16
tailgate-11-18
Lower a m i - 1 0 - 8
Lower control anm - 1 0 - 1 3
Lubricants and fluids - 0*17
Luggage compartmmt
lighl-12*8
iower side trim panel - 11 *25
M
Main beam-12*5,12-6
Main bearlng8-2E-15
ManffoW absolute pressure sensor - 4 A * i :
Manifokis
exhaust-4A-14,46*15
inlet-4A*12,4B-12,46*14
Manual transmission - 7A*1 ei seq
fault finding-REF-20
o i l - 0 - 1 7 , 7A*3
Master cylinder
brake-9-11
clutch-6-3
Matrix-3-11
Minx)rs-11*19,11*26, REF-12
switch-12*4
MUed air valve servo motor - 3-11
MOT test checks - REF-12 et seq
Motor factors-REF*7
Mountings- 2A-20, 28*17, 2C-16, 2D*15
N
Number plate light - 12-7,12*10
Easytronic transmission - 0-17,7C-2
engine-0-12, 0*17,1A*7,1B-6
manual transmission - 0-17, 7A-3
OiIoontroJvahre8-2A.11
Oil filter - 1A*7,1B-6, 2C-14
housing-2D-15
01) level sensor-5A-10
OK pressure warning light switch - 5A-10
Oil pump - 2A-17, 2B-15, 2C-13,2D-14
Oil seals - 2A-11, 2A-19, 2B*16, 2C*9, 2C*15, 2D-9, 2D-15, 7A*7,
7B*6, 7C*4, REF-8
REF«34
Index
Note: References throughout this in
Open-circuit-12>2
Output shaft speed s
Oxygen sensor - 4C«3
Pad8-1A»9,1B*8, 9 . 4 . 9 . 7
Particulatefilter-4B.17, 40*3
temperature sensor - 40*4
Parts - REF'7
Pedals
accelerator - 4A.3, 4B.4
brake-9.11
clutch-6.5
Petml angine in-car repair procedures
Ï.Ôff(re-2A.1 etseq
2.2/ftre-2B*1 etseq
Pipes-1A.9, I B . 8 , 9 . 3
Piston rings -2E>16
Pistons - 2E.12, 2E.14, 2E.18
Plastic components - 11 » 3
Poisonous or Irritant substances - 0*5
Pollen f i l t e r - 1 A . 1 1 , 1 B-S
Power steering lluid -0-17,10«17
Power steering supply unit - 10*18
Pre/post-heating system - SA-fl
control unit- 5A.12
Priming and bleeding fuel system - 4B.4
Project vehicles - 0*4
Pulleys - 2A.6, 2A.10, 2A.11, 2B.4. 2C.6, 2G.9, 20*5, 20-8
Puncture repair - 0.8
Purge valve - 40*3
Q
R
Quarter window glass - 1
Radiator - 1 A.14,1 B ' l 1, 3*2
grille-11*20
Radio-12*14
aerial-12*15
Rear light c1uster-12*6,12*10
Rear quarter window glass - 11*16
Bear window switch - 12*4
Receiver-dryer-3-15
Recirculating air valve - 3*11
Regulator (window)-11.13
Relays- 12.3
Release cylinder - 6*4
Remote control battery- 1A.13,1B.11
Repair procedures - REF.8
Respraying - 11.3
Reversing light switch - 7A*7
Roadte8t-1A.11,1B.8
nber" . 'Page number'. So, for example. 2C*15 refersto page 15 of Chapter 2C.
Roadside repairs - 0.6 etseq
Roadwheel bolt tightness check - 1A*10,18*8
Routine maintenance - bodywork and underframe - 11 ' 2
Routine maintenance - uptiolstery and carpets - 11*2
Routine maintenance and servicing - diesel models - I B ' I ef seq
Routine maintenance and servicing - petrol models - 1A.1 etseq
Rust h o l e s - 1 1 * 3
Safety firsti - 0 . 5 , O'lS
Scalding - 0.5
Scratches-11.2
Screw threads and fastenings - REF*8
Seat belts-11*22
Seats-11*21
heated-12*16
Selector cables - 7A*6, 78*3, 76*4
Selector l e v e r - 7 B . 5 . 70*2
lock SWFitch - 7B.6
position s w i t c h - 7 B . 6
Semi-automatic clutch - G*2
Service interval Indicator-1A.11, 1B*8
Shift module-7C>2
Shock absorber - l O ' U . REF*13, REF*14
Short-circuit-12.2
Sldeafrbags-12.17
SldeHght-12*5,12.6
sm Innertrim panel-11-24
Simtec 71.5 Injection system - 4A*7
Simteo 75.t injection system - 4A«8
SimtecSI.I injection system-4A-10
Spare parts - REF-7
Spark p l u g s - 1A-15
Speakers-12.15
Springs-10.13, REF-14
Sprockets - 2A>9, 2B-a, 2C-7, 2D-7
Starting and charging systems - SA-I et seq
Start-up after overhaul - 2E-20
Steering - 1A.9, l A - 1 1 , IB-B, REF.13, REF.14
angles-10.20
Steering column -10*16, REF*12
lock-10*16
shrciuds-11*30
switches-12*3
Steering gear-10*18
gaiters-10*19
Steering wheel-10*15, REF*12
switches-12*4
Stop-light-12.7,12*10
switch-9*14
Stmt
bootlid-11*16
suspension - 10*7
tailgate-11*17
Index
Note: References throughout this index are in the form "Chaptw raimbor" • "Page number". So, tor example,
Subframe-10*9
Sump -2A*16,2B«14, 2C»12.2D*14
Simroof-11«20
Suspension and steenng - 1A»9, 1A«10. 1A«11.1B»8, 10*1 ef seq,
REF.13, REF.14
fault finding - REF"22
Switches ~12»3
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Chairman oj the I
mu^m at the wheel |
Graham Hill's Lola
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car next (0 a 1934
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themselves..."
" ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
" . . . k n o w l e d g e is p o w e r ,
a n d t h a t k n o w l e d g e is in
your workshop manual...'
Inside this Manual
Maintenance Simple weekly checks to keep you on the road
Servicing Includes Service Indicator reset procedure
Fault finding Pinpoint specific problems easily
The MoT Step-by-step test checks
Fuel saving Expert advice on maximising mpg
Electrics Easy-to-read wiring diagrams
Haynes tips Valuable short cuts make many tasks easier
I
ISBN 978 1 84425 887 1
Models covered by this
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Summary of Content
Vauxhall/Opel Vectra
Owners Workshop Manual
John S. Mead
Models covered
H a t c h b a c k , Saloon & Estate
P e t r o l : 1.8 litre ( 1 7 9 6 c c ) & 2.2 litre { 2 1 9 8 c c )
T u r b o - D i e s e l : 1.9 litre (1910cc)
Does NOT cover 1.6 litre or 2.0 litre turfso 4-cyl petrol. 2.8 litre V6 petrol, or 3.0 litre V6 diesel engine
Does NOT cover CVTronic transmission or dual fuel models
O Haynes Publishing 2010
A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or
transmitted rn any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or
retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright
holder.
ISBN 978 1 84425 8871
Printed in the USA
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Yeo«il, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Uwrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320. USA
Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR VAUXHALUOPEL VECTRA
Introduction to the Vauxhall/Opel Vectra
Page
0»4
Safety first!
Page
0*5
Roadside Repairs
If your car won't start
Page
Jump starting
Page
0*7
Wheel (hanging
Page
0»8
Identifying leaks
Page
0«9
Towing
Page
0*9
0*6
Weekly Checle done (even should you choose to get
it done by a garage), provide information on
routine maintenance and servicing, and give
a logical course of action and diagnosis when
random faults occur. However. It is hoped
that you will use the manual by tackling the
work yourself. On simpler Jobs, it may even
tje quicker than booking the car into a garage
and going there twice, to leave and collect it.
Perhaps most important, a lot of money can
be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must
charge to COVH its labour and overheads.
The manual has drawings and descriptions
to show the function of the various
components, so that their layout can be
understood. Then the tasks are described
and photographed in a clear step-by-step
sequence.
References to the 'left' or 'right' are in the
sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing
fomvanJ.
Project vehicles
The mam vehicle used in the preparation
of this manual, and which appears in many of
the photographic sequences, was a Vauxhail
Vectra Hatchback with a 1.9 litre EX)HC diesel
engine. Other vehicles Included a Vectra
Estate with a 1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine
and a Vectra Hatchback with a 2,2 litre petrol
engine.
Acknowledgements
Certain illustrations are the copyright of
Vauxhail Motors Limited, and are used with
their permission. Thanks are also due to
Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of
the workshop tools, and to alt those people
at Sparkford who helped in the production of
this manual.
We take great pride In the accuracy
of Information given in this manual, but
vehicle manufacturers make alterations
and design changes during the production
run of a particular vehicle of which ttiey do
not inform us. No liability can be accepted
by the authors or publishers for loss,
damage or injury caused by any errors in,
or omissions from, the Information given.
Safety First! 0.5
Working on your car can be dangenDus.
This page shows just some of the potential
(S and hazanJs. with the aim of creating a
IS attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank
cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, transmission fluid or power
steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if
the engine has recently been mnning.
Burning
• Beware of bums fnam the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake
discs and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under 01
a raised v ^ i c l e , always
supplement the jack
with axle stands,
or use drive-on
ramps.
Never venture
under a car
which is only
supported!^
ajack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening hightonque nuts when the vehicle (s on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should be
done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fljel vapour is
explosive.
• Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(Including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks (electrically or by use of
tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so dont
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire Is an electrical
overioad or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying ttie vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shiock
• Ignition H I and
Xenon headlight
x
5 < ?
-' ' —
especially to
people with
heart problems or "
a pacemaker. Dont •
work on or near
«these systems with
J
V ^ ^ - — ^
the engine running or
i i ^ i \ ^
the Ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Mal^e
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be pnatected by a residual current device
(ROD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they
can contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never mn the engine ,
in a confined
space such as
a garage with the
doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint ttiinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Pnalonged contact with used engine oil
can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use
a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of
oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags
in your pocket,
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette), it can also cause skin
tMirns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch ilnlngs.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid Is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some 0-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc,
are exposed to temperatures above 4000C.
The mbber changes Into a chaned or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangeimis for years. If it
gets onto the s/on, it may be necessary to
amputate ttie limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a Are. or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Taieing hit by other traffic On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by o,
a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it Is easy to become distracted by ftte job in hand.
m
When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as
it is safe to do so.
Par1< on firm level ground, if possible, and
well out of ttie way of other traffic.
Use hazard warning lights if
•
•
•
U
If you have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers of your presence.
Apply the handbrake and engage first
or reverse gear (or Park on models with
automatic transmission).
•
C
Chock ttie wheel diagonally opposite the
one being removed - a couple of large
stones will do for this.
If the ground is soft, use a fiat piece of
wood to spread the load under the jack.
Changing the wheel
I
Lift the floor covering and unscrew the
spare wheel clamp nut. Lift out the spare
wheel and position it under the siil in
the Jack fails.
r Locate the jacl< head below the lacking
point nearest the wheel to be changed.
3
Q Remove the tools from the c
^ beneath the spare wheel.
On models with steel wheels, use the
special tool to pull the wheel frim from
the wheel. Note that if the wheel bolts
are visible, the wheel trim is removed with the
wheel bolts. On models with alloy wheels, use
the screwdriver provided inserted at the wheel
bolt holes to prise off the tnm.
5
Remove the bolts and lift the wheel from
the vehicle. Place it beneath the sill in
place of the spare. Fit the spare wheel
and iignren me oons mooeraieiy witn tne
wheelbrace.
The Jacking point is indicated by an anew
in the sill. Turn the handle until the base of
the iaci< touches the ground ensuring that
the jack is vertical. Raise the vehicle until the
wheel is clear of the ground. It the tyre is fiat
make sure that the vehicle is raised sufficiently
to allow the s p ^ wheel to be fitted.
6
Finally...
•
•
Remove the wheel chocks.
Stow the jack and tools in the con-ect
locations in the car.
Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just
fitted. If it Is low, or if you don't have a
pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to
the next garage and inflate the tyre to the
correct pressure.
; j ' Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired
as soon as possible, or another puncture
will leave you stranded.
•
7
Lower the vehicle to the ground, then
finally tighten the wheel bolls in a diagonal
sequence. Refit the wheel trim. Note that
the wheel bolts should be lightened to the
i torque at the earliest opportunity.
Identifying leaks
Puddles on the garage tloor or drive,
or obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a \eak that
needs investigating. II can sometimes be
difficult to decide where the leak is coming
from, especially If an engine undershield is
fitted. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
reanftiards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the preiblem
A
Sump oil
Oil from filter
Gearbox oil
•
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Warning: Most automotive
oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wasti
(hem oft sidn, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
The smell of a fluid leaking from
the car may provide a due to
whafs leaking. Some fluids are
distinctively coloured. It may!:
help to remove the engine undershield,..
clean the car carefully and to park it aver
some clean paper overnight as an aid to
Jocating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
JHiMT
Engine oil may leak from the dram plug...
Antifreeze
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
[ainly brake fluid.
Towing
When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home - or of course
you may be helping somebody else.
Long-distance recovery should only be
done by a garage or breakdown service. For
shorter distances, DIY towing using another
car Is easy enough, but observe the following
points:
• Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes
pnavided. A towing eye is provided with the
tool kit in the luggage compartment. To fit tne
towing eye, remove the circular cover from Ihn
front or rear bumper, as required, then screw
In the towing eye anti-clockwise as far as It
will go using the handle of the wheel brace to
turn the eye. Note that the towing eye has a
left-hand thread.
. iUse a proper tow-rope - they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ON TOW sign In its rear window,
r I Always turn the ignition key to the 'on'
position when the vehicle is being towed,
so that the steering lock is released, and the
direction indicator and brake lights work.
• Before being towed, release the handbrake
nnn .soioct neutral on the transmission. On
mofioia wim automatic transmission, special
precautions apply If in doubt, do not tow, or
transmission damage may result.
• Note that greater-than-usuai pedal pressure
will be required to operate the brakes, since
the vacuum servo unit is only operational with
the engine running.
• Qreater-than-usual steering effort will also
be required.
• T h e driver of the car being towed must
keep the low-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
• Make sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
• Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the
distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly
and allow plenty of time for slowing down at
junctions.
0.10 Weekly checks
Introduction
There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.
These Weekly checks require no great skili or
special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, tor example;
• Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.
• Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are particularly
common, and a quick check on a regular basis
will often prevent the majority of these,
Underbonnet check points
• If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when your
brakes don't work properly. Checking the level
regularly will give advance warning of this kind
of problem.
!_lf the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.
-^1.8 litre
Z18XE
petrol engine
1 Engine oil level dipstick
2 Engine oil filler cap
3 Coolant
reservoir
(expansion tank)
4 Brake and dutch
fluid
5 Washer fluid reservoir
6
Battery
-41.8 litre
Z18XER
petrol engine
1 Engine oil level dipstick
2 Engine oil filler cap
3 Coolant reservoir
(expansion tank)
4 Brake and clutch fluid
b
a f e ,
reservoir
5 Washer fluid reservoir
6
Battery
Weekly checks o.ii
^ 2 . 2 litre
petrol engine
1 Engine oil level dipstick
2 Engine oil filler cap
3 Coolant resen/oir
(expansion tank)
4 Brake and clutch fluid
resen/oir
5 Washer fluid reservoir
6
Battery
-41.9 litre DOHC
diesel engine
1 Engine oil level dipstick
2 Engine oil filler cap
3 Coolant reservoir
(expansion tank)
4 Brake and clutch fluid
resen/oir
5 Washer fluid
6
Battery
resen/oir
0 . 1 2 Weekly checks
Engine oil level
Before you start
• Make sure that tne car is on level ground,
• The oil level must be checked with the engine
at normal operating temperature, however, wait
at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
checked
If the oil
in,n,ea,^ie,ya,i^r driving tl^e
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the tipper engine
resulting in an inaccurate
iding on the dipstick.
„._,_
HllUT
I
The dipstick is brightly coloured for easy
identification (see Underbonnet check
points for exact location). Withdraw the
dipstick.
oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick Into the tube as far as it will go,
then withdraw it again.
The correct oil
Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. it is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used {see Lubricants and fluids).
Car care
• If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight, and
check for stains in the moming. if there ate no
leaks, then the engine may t>e burning oil, or
the oil may only be leaking when the engine !s
mnning,
• Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipsHck marlcs (see photo 3).
If the level is too low, severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result it the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
Coolant level
A
I
Warning: Do not attempt
to
remove
the expansion
tank
pressure cap when the engine is
hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. Do not leave open
containers of coolant about, as it
The coolant level varies with the
temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should
be slightly above the KALT/COLD mark on the
side of the tank. When the engine is hot, the
level will rise.
3
Note the le, _-
2 . ;ie dipstick,
which shoula
;jct,vet;i the upper
(MAX) mark and lower (MIN) markApproximately 1.0 litre of oil wili raise the level
from the lower mark to the upper mark.
Car care
4
011 IS addnu u.muy.i ...c M.g will result.
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder
Wear
Underlnflatlon (wear on both sides)
Under-inflatlon will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the fread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heal build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camt>er [wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Centre
Wear
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate your car's
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don't
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.
Uneven
Wear
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or i^new suspensior) parts
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheei alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
Weekly checks
Wiper blades
the condition of the wiper blades;
1 Check
if they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should
be renewed annually.
jmoue a windscreen wiper blade, pull
irm fully away from the screen until it
locks. Swivel the blade through 90", press
the locking tab with your fingers and slide the
blade out of the ami's hooked end.
Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on
the vehicie battery, read the precautions
given in 'Safety firstf at the start of this
manual. If the battery is to be disconnected,
refer to •Disconnecting the battery' in the
Reference Chapter, tiefore proceeding.
• Make sure that the battery tray is in
good condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse
all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered with
a zinc-tjased primer, then painted.
• Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5A.
• If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.
left-hand side of the engine compartment,
housed In a protective plastic box. Open
the battery box, for access to the terminals,
by releasing the lid at the front and pivoting
it upwarels. Where fitted, uncllp the insulation
jacket and lift open the jacket cover.
'^Battery corrosion
,a minimum by •
1 (white, fluffy deposits) is
ivident. remove the cables from the
battery terminals, clean them with a small
wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores
sell a tool for cleaning the battery p o s t . . .
i
1 be kept to
i g a layer of
2
Check the tightness of battery clamps
to ensure good electrical connections.
You should not be able to move them.
Also check each cable for cracks and frayed
conductors.
as well as the battery cable clamps
0 . 1 6 Weekly checks
Electrical systems
• Check ali externa/ lights and the horn. Refer
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for
details if any of the circiiits are found to be
inoperative.
I
lf a smaia indicator liaht. stop-iioht or
headlioht has failed, it is likely that a bulb
has blown and will need to be renewed.
Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both
stop-lights have tailed, it Is p<
switch has failed (see Chapter
I
.. and in the left-hand side of the
tne winng aiagrams at tne ena o
locations and circuits protected.
• Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.
2
If more than one Indicator light or
headlight has failed, it Is likely that either
a fuse has blown or that there is a fault
in the circuit (see Chapter 12), The mam fuses
are located behind a cover on tfie left-hand
edge of the facia. Pull open and remove the
5
"nJJJTgg If you need (o check your
• j * ! " " } brake lights and indicators
HlMT: unaided, back up to a wall or
garage door and operate the
lights. The reflected light should show If
they are working properly.
and relays are located in
y the fuse/relay txix on the left-hand side of
the engine compartment...
To renew a Uown fuse, remove
where applicable, using the
frfastic tool provided. Rt a new fuse of the
iting, available
from car accessory shops. It is important that you find the reason
thai the fuse blew (see ElecMcal fault finding in Chapter 12).
Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
o«i7
Lubricants and fluids
Engine
Petrol
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE OW/30, OW/40, 5W/30 or
5W/40 to Vauxhall/Ope! specification GM-LL-A-025
Diesel
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE OW/30, OW/40, 5W/30 or
5WM0 to Vauxhali/Opel specification GM-LL-B-025
Manual a n d Easytronic t r a n s m i s s i o n s
VauxhalTOpe! gear oil (09 120 541)
Automatic transmission:
AF23
Vauxhall/Opel automatic transmission fluid (93 160 393)
AF40
Power s t e e r i n g
Vauxhall/Opel automatic transmission fluid (93 165 147)
reservoir
Vauxhall/Opel steering fluid (93 160 548)
Cooling s y s t e m
Vauxhall/Opel silicate-free coolant (09 194 431)
B r a k e / c l u t c h fluid reservoir
Hydraulic fluid to DOT 4
Tyre pressures (cold)
Note: Pressures apply to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other-make or type of tyre is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer oi
supplier for correct pressures if necessary.
N o r m a l load (up t o 3 ptassengers)
Front
Rear
2.0 bar (29 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.4 bar (35 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.4 bar (35 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
2.2 bar (32 psi)
1 ^ litre petrol models
All tyre sizes
,
2.2 litre petrol models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55 R 16, 215/50 R 17, 225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
1.9 litre Z19DTH diesel models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55 R 16, 215/50 R 17,225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
1.9 litre Z19DT diesel models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55 R 16,215/50 R 17, 225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
Fully l a d e n
1 ^ litre petrol models
All tyre sizes
2^ litre petrol models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55R16, 215/50 R 17, 225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
1.9 litre Z19DTH diesel models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55R16, 215/50 R 17, 225/45 R17and 225/45 R 18 tyres
1.9 litre Z19DT diesel models
195/65 R 15 and 205/55 R 16 tyres
215/55 R 16, 215/50 R 17, 225/45 R 17 and 225/45 R 18 tyres
2.2 bar (32 psi)
2.7 bar (39 psi)
2.5 bar (36 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
3.0 bar (44 psi)
2.8 bar (41 psi)
2.5 bar (36 psi)
2.4 bar (35 psi)
3.0 bar (44 psi)
2.9 bar (42 psi)
2.5 bar (36 psi)
2.3 bar (33 psi)
3.0 bar (44 psi)
2,8 bar (41 psi)
4.2 bar (61 psi)
4.2 bar (61 psi)
Space-saver temporary spare tyre
All models
Chapter 1 Part A:
Routine maintenance and servicing
petrol models
Contents
Section number
Section number
Air cleaner element renewal
Auxiliary driuebeit ciieck and renewal
Bodywork and underbody condition check
Brake fluid pipe and hose check
Brake pad, caliper and disc check
Clutch hydraulic fluid level check - Easytronic models
Coolant renewal
Driveshaft check
Electrical systems check
Engine oil and filter renewal
Exhaust emission check
Exhaust system check
Front suspension and steering check
Fuel filter renewal
General infonnation
26
21
13
8
7
6
24
10
16
3
26
11
9
29
1
Headlight beam alignment check
Hinge and lock lubrication
Hose and fluid leak check
Hydraulic fluid renewal
Pollen filter renewal
Power steering fluid level dieck
Rear suspension check
Regular maintenance
Remote control battery renewal
Road test
Roadwheel bolt tightness check
Service interval indicator reset
Spark plug renewal
Timing belt, tensionerand idlwpulley renewal-1.8litre engines...
Valve clearance check and adjustment - 1 . 8 litre ZISXER engines..
17
15
4
23
20
5
12
2
22
18
14
19
27
28
30
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairiy easy, suitable |
for beginnCT wi&i
€
some experience
FairiydHficUt
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
^
Difficult, suitable
for e x p ^ i e n c e d DIY
mechanic
^
«
«
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
^
«
^
1A.2 Servicing specifications - petrol models
Lubricants and fluids
Refer to WeeMy checks on page 0-1
Capacities
Engine oil including oil filter)
l.e litre engines:
Z18XE engines
ZISXER engines
2.2 litre engines
Difference between MIN and MAX dipstici^ marks
Cooling system
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines:
Manual transmission without air conditioning
Manual transmission with air conditioning
Automatic transmission with or without air conditioning
4.25 litres
4.5 litres
5.0 litres
1.0 litre
5,5 litres
6.9 litres
7.2 litres
7.4 litres
Transmission
Manual transmission:
F17+transmission
F23 transmission
M32 transmission
Automatic transmission {at fluid change)
Easytronic transmission
1.6 litres
1.55 litres
2.2 litres
3.0 to 3,5 litres (approximately)
1.6 litres
Washer fluid reservoir
Without headlight washers
With headlight washers
2.9 litres
5.6 litres
Fuel tank
Sakwn and Hatchback models
Estate models
60 litres
B1 litres
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture:
40% antifreeze
50% antifreeze
Protection down to -28°C
Protection down to -40°C
Ignition system
Spark plugs:
1.8 litre engines
2,2 litre engines
Type
Bosch FOR B LEU2
Benj 14 FGR-8DQU7
Brakes
Friction material minimum thickness (including backing plate):
Front brake pads
Rear brake pads
9.0 mm
8.0 mm
Torque w r e n c h settings
Oil filter housing cap to filter housing (paper element filter)
Roadwheel bolts
Spark plugs
Sump drain plug;
I.SIitre engines
2.2 litre engines
Nm
25
110
25
14
25
Maintenance scliedule - petrol models 1A.3
"me maintenance Intervals tn this manual are
provided with the assumption that you, not the
dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are
the minimum maintenance inten/als based on
the standard service schedule recommended
by the manufacturerfor vehicles driven dally. If
you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perfomi some of
these procedures more often. We encourage
frequent maintenance, because it enhances
the efficiency, performance and resale value
of your vehicle.
e removed with it. Take care not
to touch Vie exhaust or any other hot parts of
the engine when working under the vehicle. To
avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect
yourself from possible skin irritants and other
harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it Is
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out
tills work.
2 Access to the underside of the vehicle will
be greatly improved if It can be raised on
a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and
supported on axie stands (see Jacking and
vehicie support). Whichever method is chosen,
3 Removing ttie oil filler
3.9a Separate the paper-eleinent type
filter from ttie c a p . . .
make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if
it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the
lowest point. The drain plug is located at the
rear of the sump.
3 Remove the oil filler cap fnam the camshaft
cover {twist it through a quarter-turn anticlockwise and withdraw it| blems in the future.
3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length.
Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen
CM- deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if
the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to
the hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting In cooling
system leaks. If wire-type hose clips are used,
it may be a good idea to update them with
screw-type clips.
4 Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces, etc) for leaks. Where any
problems of this, nature are found on system
components, renew the component or gasket
witfi reference to Chapter 3 (see Haynes
Hint).
5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic
transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or
deterioration.
6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks
and other damage. The connection between
the filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes, a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber
7 Carefully check aii rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage.
Pay particular attention to the vent pipes
and hoses, which often loop up around
the fiiler neck and can become blocked or
crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the
vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way.
Renew damaged sections as necessary.
Slmilariy, whilst the vehicle is raised, take the
opportunity to inspect all underbody brake
fluid pipes and hoses.
8 From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
5
Power steering
fluid level c h e c k
Referto Chapter 10, Section 21,
6
C l u t c h hydrauflc
f l u i d level c h e c k Easytronic models
Note: The fluid level check on manual transmission models is in 'Weekly checks'.
1 The clutch hydraulic fluid level markings are
on the side of the fluid reservoir located on the
fnant of the transmission. The use of a mirror
will be helpful.
2 Check that the level of the fluid is at or near
Every 20 000 miles - petrol models I A . 9
the MAX marWng on the side of the i
(see Illustration).
3 If topping-up Is required, unscrew the filler
cap and pour in fresh fluid of the specified
type (see Lubricants and fluids), until the level
is at the MAX marking. Retighten the cap on
completion.
J
'
B r a k e p a d , caliper
and disc check
|^
I
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front and rear of the vehicle and support
it securely on axle stands (see Jack/ng and
vehicle support). Remove the roadwheels.
2 For a quick check, the pad thickness can
be can-ied out via the Inspection hole on the
caliper (see Haynes Hint). Using a steel
njie, measure the thickness of the pad lining
including the backing plate. This must not be
Jess than that indicated in the Specifications.
3 The view thnxigh the caliper inspection hole
gives a rough indication of the state of the
brake pads. For a comprehensive check, the
brake pads should be removed and cleaned
The operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake disc
Itself can be fully examined on both sides.
Chapter 9 contains a detailed description of
how the brake disc should be checked for
wear and/or damage.
4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the
specified tiiickness or less, all four pads must
be renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9 for
details,
5 On completion, refit the roadwheels and
lower the vehicle lo the ground.
S B r a k e fluid pipe
%
and hose ciieck
1 The brake hydraulic system includes a
number of metal pipes, which run from the
master cylinder lo the hydraulic modulator of
the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and then to
the ftont and rear brake assemblies. Flexible
hoses are fitted between the pipes and the
front and rear brake assemblies, to allow for
steering and suspension movement.
2 When checking the system, first look for
signs of leakage at the pipe or hose unions,
then examine the flexible hoses for signs
of cracking, chafing or deterioration of the
aibber. Bend the hoses sharply between the
fingers (but do not actually bend them double,
or the casing may be damaged) and check
that this does not reveal previously-hid den
cracks, cuts or splits. Check that the pipes
and hoses are securely fastened in their clips,
3 Carefully working along the length of the
metal pipes, look for dents, kinks, damage
of any sort, or corrosion. Light con^sion can
be polished off, but if the depth of pitting is
agnificant, the pipe must be renewed.
For a quick check, the thickness
friction material remaining on the inneri
brake pad can he measured throughthe aperture in the caliper body.
9
Front s u s p e n s i o n
and steering c h e c k
1
1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front
of the vehicle and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the
steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or
deterioration.
3 Any wear of these components will cause
loss of lubricant, and may ailow water to
enter the components, resulting in rapid
deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear.
4 Grasp each roadwheel at the 12 o'clock
and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it
(see Illustration). Very slight free play may
be felt, but if the movement is appreciable,
further investigation is necessary to determine
the source. Continue rocking the wheel while
an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
5 Now grasp each wheel at the 9 o'clock
and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rcick it as
before. Any movement felt now may again
=ed bv wear in the hub beanngs or the
steenng track rod end balljoints. if the track
roa end oaiijoint is worn, the visual movement
will be obvious.
6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected, as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible mbber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
7 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around
the suspension struts, or from the rubber
gaiters around the piston rods. Should any
fluid be noticed, the suspension strut is
defective internally, and should be renewed.
Note: Suspension struts should always be
renewed in pairs on the same axle.
8 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
have an assistant turn the steering wheel
back-and-forth about an eighth of a turn
each way. There should be very little, if any,
lost movement between the steering wheel
and roadwheels. If this is not the case,
closely observe the joints and mountings
previously described. In addition, check the
steering column universal joints for wear, and
also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear
itself.
9 The efficiency of each suspension strut may
be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each
front corner. Generally speaking, the body will
return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on a
rebound, the suspension strut is probably
suspect. Also examine the suspension strut
upper mountings for any signs of wear.
1Q Driveshaft c h e c k
9.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings by
grasping the wheel and trying to rock it
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then lack up
the fnsnt of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
2 Turn the steering onto full lock then slowly
rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of
the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber
gaiters while squeezing the gaiters to open
1 A . 1 0 Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
10.2 Check the condition of the driveshaft
retaining clips (2)
out the folds (see illustration). Check for
signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the
rubber which may allow the grease to escape
and lead to water and grit entry into the joint.
Also check the security and condition of the
retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the
inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration
is found, the oaiters should be renewed as
described in C h ^ t e r 8.
3 At the same time, check the general
condition of the CV joints themselves by
first holding the driveshaft and attempting
to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by
holding the Inner joint and attempting to rotate
the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement
indicates wear in the joints, wear in the
driveshaft splines or loose driveshaft retaining
nut.
Exhaust s y s t e m Check
1 Witii the engine cold (at least an hour
afte' the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust systsn from the engine to
the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is
most easily checked with the vehicle raised
on a hoist, or suitably-sup ported on axle
stands, so that the exhaust components are
readily visible and accessible {see Jacking and
vehicle support).
2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections
for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
mountings are in good condition, and that all
relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage al
any of the joints or In other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak.
3 Rattles and other noises can often be traced
to the exhaust system, especially the brackets
and mountings (see lllustralion). Try to move
the pipes and silencers. If the components
are able to come Into contact with the body
or suspension parts, secure the system with
new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints
Pf possible) and twist the pipes
to provide additional clearance.
11.3 Exhaust mountings
12 Rear s u s p e n s i o n c h e c k
I
1 Chock the front wiieels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicie support).
2 Inspect the rear suspension compon«its ftir
any signs of obvious wear or damage. Pay
particular attention to the rubber mounting
bushes, and renew if necessary (see Chapter 10).
3 Grasp each naadwheel at the 12 o'clock and
6 o'clock positions (see Illustration 9.4), and
try to rock it. Any excess movement indicates
wear in the wheel bearings. Wear may also be
accompanied by a rumbling sound when the
wheel is spun, .or a noticeable roughness if the
wheel is turned slowly. The wiheel bearing can
be renewed as described in Chapter 10.
4 Check for any signs of fluid leakage anaund
the shock absorber bodies. Should any fluid
be noticed, the shock absorber is defective
internally, and should be renewed. Note:
Shock absorbers shouid always be renewed in
pairs on tiie same axle.
5 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
the efficiency of each shock absorber may
be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each
rear corner. Generally speaking, the body will
return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on
a rebound, the shock absorber is probably
suspect.
13 B o d y w o r k a n d
underbody condition check
Wots; This work should be carried out by
a Vauxhali/Opei dealer in order to validate
the vehicle warranty. The work includes a
thorough Inspection of the vehicle paintwork
and underbody for damage and conosion.
Bodywork
corrosion
damage/
ciieck
1 Once the car has been washed, and all tar
spots and other surface blemishes have bieen
cleaned off, carefully check all paintwork,
looking closely for chips or scratches. Pay
particular attention to vulnerable areas such
as the front panels (bonnet and spoiler), and
around the wheel arches. Any damage to
the paintwork must be rectified as soon as
possible, to comply with the terms of the
manufacturer's anti-corrosion warranties;
check with a Vauxhall/Opel dealer for details.
2 If a chip or light scratch is found which
is recent and still free from rust, it can be
touched-up using the appropriate touch-up
stick which can be obtained fK)m Vauxhail/
Opel dealers. Any more serious damage,
or rusted stone chips, can be repaired as
described in Chapter 11. but if damage or
corrosion is so severe that a panel must be
renewed, seek professional advice as soon as
3 Always check that the door and ven^lation
opening drain holes and pipes are completely
clear, so that water can drain out.
Comsion
protection
ciieck
4 The wax-based u ierbody protective
coating should be ispected annually.
preferably Just prior 3 Winter, when the
underbody should I
washed down as
thoroughly as possible wwithout disturbing the
protective coating. Any damage to the coating
should be repaired using a suitable wax-based
sealer. If ^ y of the body panels are disturbed
for repair or renewal, do not forget to re-apply
the coating. Wax should be injected into door
cavities, sills and box sections, to maintain
the level of protection provided by the vehicle
manufacturer - seek the advice of a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer
14 R o a d w h e e l b o l t
tightness check
^
1 Where applicable, remove the wheel tnms
from the wheels,
2 Using a torque wrench on each wheel bolt
In turn, ensure that the bolts are tightened to
the specified torque.
Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
3 Wtiere applicable, refit the wheel trims
on completion, malximately 10 seconds the display
will show the service symbol and the maximum
mileage before the next required service,
followed by 'InSP'. When ' — ' appears in the
display, release the reset button and switch off
the ignition. When the button is released, the
odometer reading will appear again.
Every 40 000 miles
or 2 years
2 0 Pollen filter renewal
IA.II
ttie front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on fijli-lock.
Cany out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
dnveshaft joint (see Chapter 8).
20.2 . . . then open tf
1 A . 1 2 Every 40 000 miles - petrol models
roadwheel and the wheel arch liner inner
cover for access to the right-hand side of the
engine.
6 For additional working clearance, remove
the air cleaner housing as described in
Chapter 4A.
7 If the drivebelt is to be re-used, mark it to
indicate its normal mnning direction.
1.8 litre m o d e l s
Release the dips at each e n d . . .
3 Release the clips from each end. then lift
out the fiiter (see illustrations).
4 Fit the new filter using a reversal of the
removal procedure; make sure that the filter is
fitted the correct way up as indicated on tiie
edge of the filter.
Auxiliary drivebelt
check and renewal
Note: The manufacturers racommend that the
tensioner pulley is checked and if necessary
renewed at the same time as the drivebelt.
Checking
1 Due to their function and materia make-up,
drivebelts are prone to failure after a long
period of time and should therefore be
inspected regularly.
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
right-hand frcintroadwheel and the wheel arch
liner inner cover for access to the right-hand
side of the engine.
1.8 litre Z18XE engines
r Locking pin/bolt
2 Turn the tensioner as indicated tc
release the tension
20J3b . . . and im out the pollen filter
3 With the engine stopped, inspect the
full length of the drivebelt for cracks and
separation of the belt plies. It will be necessay
to turn the engine (using a spanner or socket
and bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt) so that
the belt can be inspected thoroughly. Twist
the belt between the pulleys so that both
sides can be viewed. Also check for fraying,
and glazing which gives the beh a shiny
appearance. Check the pulleys for nicks,
cracks, distortion and corrosion. If the belt
shows signs of wear or damage, it should be
renewed as a precaution against breakage in
4 On 2.2 litre engines also check the position
of the drivebelt tensioner assembly ann. The
mark on the underside of the moveable arm
should be in between the two marks on the
tensioner body, and the arm should be free to
8 Note the routing of the drivebelt, then, using
a Torx key or spanner (as applicable) on the
pulley centre bolt, or the raised projection
on the tensioner asm. turn the tensioner anticlockwise against the spring tension. Hold
the tensioner in this position by inserting a
suitable locking pin/bolt through the special
hole provided (see illustrations).
9 Locate the auxiliary drivebelt onto the
pulleys in the conect routing. If the drivebelt is
being re-used, make sure it is fitted the correct
way araund.
10 Turn back the tensioner and remove the
locking pin/bolt then release it, making sure
that the drivebelt ribs locate correctly on each
of the pulley grooves,
11 Refit the air cleaner housing (if removed),
then refit the wheel arch liner inner cover
and roadwheel. and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
2.2 litre m o d e l s
5 If not already done, apply the handbrake,
then jack up the front of the vehicle and
support it on axle stands (see Jacking ana
vehicle support). Remove the right-hand fnsnt
12 Note the routing of the drivebelt, then
insert a socket bar or similar tool into the
square hole on the tensioner arm. Turn the
tensioner anti-clockwise against the spring
tension and slip the auxiliary drivebelt off of
the pulleys (see illustration). Release the
tensioner arm.
13 Turn the tensioner anti-clockwise and
locate the auxiliary drivebelt onto the pulleys
in the conect routing. If the drivebelt is being
21.8b Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner on
1.8 litre ZISXER engines
Raised projection
2 Locking pin/bolt
on tens/oner arm
hole
21.12 Auxiliary drivebeH tensioner Ol
2.2 litre engines
Turn the tensioner as
release Che tens/on
Renewal
Every 40 000 miles - petrol models
re-used, make sure it is fitted ttie correct
way araund. With the belt in position, slowly
release the tensioner arm making sure that the
drivebelt ribs locate correctly on each of the
pulley grooves.
14 Refit the air cleaner housing (if removed),
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
^22 R e m o t e c o n t r o l
battery renewal
1 ustng a screwdriver, prise the battery cover
from the ignition key fob (see illustrations).
2 Note tiow the circular battery is fitted, then
carefully remove it from the contacts.
3 Fit the new battery (type GR 20 32) and refit
the cover, making sure that It clips fully onto
the base.
4 After changing the battery, lock and unlock
the driver's door with the key in the lock to
synchronise the remote control unit
23 Hydraulic fluid renewal
I
Note: tt is not possil^le for the home mechanic
to bleed the clutch hydraulic system on
Easytronic models. Refer to Chapter 7C for
additional Information.
Warning: Hydraulic fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme caution
when handling and pouring it. Do not use
fluid that has been standing open for some
time, as it absorbs moisture from the air.
Excess moisture can cause a dangerous
loss of braking effectiveness.
1 The procedure Is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapters 9 (brake) and 6 (clutch).
2 Worthing as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly
all the old fluid has been emptied from the
master cylinder resen/oir Top-up to the MAX
level with new fluid, and continue pumping
until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir,
« fluid can be seen emerging from the
A
22.13
Prise ofl the battery
Qldhydraulic fluid is invariably
; «
I much darker in colour than
• HlllITi the new, making it easy to
•
^ distinguish the two.
3 Work through all tiie remaining bleed screws
in the sequence until new fluid can be seen
at ^1 of them. Be careful to keep the master
cylinder reservoir topped-up to above the MIN
level at all times, or air may enter the system
and greatly increase the length of the task,
4 Bleed the fluid from the clutch hydraulic
system as described in Chapter 6.
5 When the operation is complete, check that
ail bleed screws are securely tightened, and
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all
traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level.
6 Check the operation of the brakes and
clutch before taking the car on the road.
IA.I3
then refit the wheel arch liner inner cover
and roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
A
Warning: Wait until the engine
is cold before starting
this
procedure. Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin, or with
the painted surfaces of the vehicie. Rinse
off spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in
an open container, or in a puddle in the
driveway or on the garage floor Children
and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.
Cooling
system
draining
1 To drain the cooling system, first cover the
expansion tank cap with a wad of rag, and
slowly turn the cap anti-clockwise to relieve
the pressure in the cooling system (a hissing
sound will normally be heard). Wait until any
pressure remaining in the system is released,
then continue to turn the cap until it can be
removed.
2 The coolant drain plug is located at the
bottom of the radiator left-hand or right-hand
end tank, according to engine. Position a
container beneath the radiator then unscrew
24 Coolant renewal
a.
the drain plug and allow the coolant to drain.
On 2.2 litre engines, also unscrew the drain
plug from under the coolant pump bousing
(see illustration).
Mote: Vauxhall/Opel do not specify renewal
3 When the flow of coolant stops, refit and
intervals for the antifreeze mixture, as the tighten the drain plug(s).
mixture used to fill the system when the vehicle 4 As no cylinder biock drain plug is fitted, it
is new is designed to last the lifetime of the
is not possible to drain all of the coolant. Due
vehicle. However, it Is strongly recommended consideration must be made for this whwi
that the coolant is renewed at the intervals
refilling the system, in order to maintain the
I in the •Maintenance schedule', as a conect concentration of antifreeze.
precaution against possible engine corrosion 5 If the coolant has been drained for a
problems. This is particularly advisable if the reason other than renewal, then provided it is
coolant has been renewed using an antifreeze clean and less than two years old, it can be
other than that specified by Vauxhall/Opel. re-used.
With many antifreeze types, the corrosion
Cooling
system
flushing
inhibitors become pmgressively less effective
with age. It is up to the individual owner
whether or not to follow this advice.
6 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or
the circular batteiy
24.2 Removing the coolant drain plug
located under the coolant pump housing 2ja Irtre engines
1A»14 Every 2 years - petrol models
not to introduce dirt or debris into the system
if this appnaach is used.
12 With the bottom hose disconnected
from the radiator, insert a garden hose into
the thermostat opening. Direct a clean flow
of water through the engine, and continue
flushing until clean water emerges from the
radiator bottom hose.
13 On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat with reference to Chapter 3, and
reconnect the hoses.
Cooling
24.17 U f t i q i the Wire d i p and disconnect
the left-haiKl heater hose from the heater
matrix pipe stub
flien In time, the cooling system may gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,
and other sediment. The cooling system
efficiency can be restored by flushing the
system clean.
7 The radiatorshouldbeflushed independently
of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.
Radiator
flushing
8 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and
any other relevant hoses from the radiator,
with reference to Chapter 3.
9 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top
Inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the
radiator, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges Irom ttie radiator bottom outlet.
10 If after a reasonable period, the water still
does not njn clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
Important that the manufacturer's instructions
are followed carefully. If the contamination is
particularly bad, remove the radiator, insert
the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and
reverse-flush the radiator
Engine flushing
11 To flush the engine, the thermostat must
be removed, because it will be shut, and
would otherwise prevent the flow of water
around the engine. The thermostat can be
removed as described in Chapter 3. Take care
system
filling
14 Before attempting to fill the cooling
system, make sure that all hoses and clips are
in good condition, smd that the clips are tight.
Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used
all year round, to prevent corrosion of the
engine components.
15 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
16 Fill the system by slowly pouring the
coolant Into ttie expan^on tank until it is up to
the filler neck.
17 Using a small screwdriver, lift up the wire
clip securing the left-hand healer hose to the
heater matrix pipe stub, and disconnect the
hose irom the stub (see illustration).
18 As soon as coolant begins to run from the
heater matrix, push the securing wire clip back
into position on the healer hose end fitting,
then push the hose back onto the matrix pipe
stub. Ensure that the wire clip securely locks
the hose in position.
19 Top-up the expansion tank until the
coolant level is up to the KALT/COLD mark on
the side of the tank.
20 Refit and tighten the expansion tank filler
cap.
21 Start the engine and run It at 2000 to
2500 rpm for 30 seconds, allow it to idle for
5 seconds, then njn it at 2000 to 2500 rpm
again for a further 30 seconds.
22 Continue mnning the engine at idling speed
and allow it to warm-up. When the cooling
fan cuts-in. run the engine again at 2000 to
2500 rpm for 30 seconds, allow it to idle for
5 seconds, then run it at 2000 to 2500 rpm
again for a further 30 seconds.
23 Stop the engine, and allow it to cool, then
recheck the coolant level with reference to
Weekly checks. Top-up the level If necessary
and refit the expansion tank filler cap.
Antifreeze
mixture
24 Always use an ethylene-glycol based
antifreeze which Is suitable for use in
mixed-metal cooling systems. Note: Vauxhail/
Opel recommend the use of silicate-free
•red' coolant (09 194 431). The quantity of
antifreeze and levels of pnatection are given in
the Specifications.
25 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security.
26 After filiing with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating tiie
type and concfflitratlon of antifreeze used, and
the date Installed. Any subsequent topping-up
should be made with the same type and
concentration of anfifreeze.
Caution: Do not use engine antifreeze in
ttie windscreen/tailgate
washer system,
as it will cause damage to the vehicle
paintwork. A screenwash additive should
be added to the washer system tn the
quantities stated on the bottle.
25 Exhaust e m i s s i o n c h e c k
•iw'
1 The exhaust emission check is carried
ly after 3 years, then every 2 years,
however, on vehicles which are subject to
intensive use (eg, taxis/hire cars/ambulances)
it must be carried out annually. The check
involves checking the engine management
system operation by plugging an electronic
tester into the system diagnostic socket
to check the electronic control untt (ECU)
memory for faults (see Chapter 4A^.
2 In reality, if the vehicle is mnning correctly
and the engine management warning light in
the instmment panel is functioning normally,
then this check need not be canied out.
Every 40 OOP miles or 4 years
26 Air cleaner e l e m e n t renewal
26.2 Slacken the
1 The air cleaner is located in the front righthand corner ol the engine compartment.
2 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect
the air intake duct from ttie airflow meter {see
Illustration).
3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
side of the airflow meter (see illustration).
4 Undo the screws m\6 lift off the air cleaner
cover, then lift out the tiller element {see
Illustrations).
Every 40 000 miles - petrol models
26.4a Undo the retaining screws
.4b . . . lift off a w air daaner c o v e r . . .
5 Wipe out the casing and the cover.
6 Fit the new filter, noting that the rubber
locating flange should be uppermost, and
secure the cover with the screws.
7 Reconnect the airflow meter wiring
connector and the air intake duct.
27 Spark p l u g renewal
f^-
1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs
¡3 vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine; suitable types
are specified at the beginning of this Chapter,
or in the vehicle's Owner's Handbook. If the
correct type is used and the engine is in good
condition, the spark plugs should not need
attention between scheduled renewal intervals.
Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and
should not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available, as damage can easily
be caused to the firing ends.
2 Where applicable, remove the engine top
cover after removing the oil filler cap. Refit the
cap.
3 Remove the ignition module from the spark
plugs with reference to Chapter 5B.
4 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the
spark plug recesses using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping
into the cylinders.
5 Unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder
head using a spark plug spanner, suitable box
spanner or a deep socket and extension bar
(see illustration). Keep the socket aligned
with the spark plug - if it Is forcibly moved to
one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken
off,
6 Examination of the spark plugs will give a
good indication of the condition of the engine.
As each plug is removed, examine it as follows.
If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean
and while, with no deposits, this Is indicative
of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly
a cold plug transfers heat away quickly],
7 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
wrth hard black-looking deposits, ttien this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then tt is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
8 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture
is conect and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
g Some engines are fitted with multi-electrode
plugs as standard (see Illustration). On these
plugs, the electrode gaps are all preset and
no attempt should be made to bend the
electrodes.
10 if single electrode plugs are to be
installed, the spark plug electnsde gap is of
considerable importance, it the gap is too
large or too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired and it will
not perform correctly under all engine speed
IA.IS
26.4c . . . than lift out the Alter elenwnt
and load conditions. For the best results, the
spark plug gap should be set in accordance
with the Specifications at the beginning of this
11 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler
blade or spark plug gap gauge and then
carefully bend the outer plug electrode until
the correct gap is achieved. The centre
electrode should never be bent, as this may
crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if
nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap
is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a
firm sliding fit (see Illustrations).
12 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting
tools are available from most motor accessory
shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers
(see Illustration).
13 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves on the top of
27.9 The gap of the multi-electrode p
(where fitted) should not be adjusted
27.1 l a If single electrode plugs are fitted,
check the electrode gap using a feeler
27.11b . . . o r a w i r e g a u g e . .
1 A - 1 6 Every 40 000 miles - petrol models
27.12 . . . and H necessary adjust the gap
by bending the eFectrode
the plug are tight, and that the plug exterior
surfaces and threads are clean.
14 Screw in the spark plugs by hand where
possible, then tighten them to the specified
torque. Take extra care to enter the plug
threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of
light alloy construction (see Haynes Hint).
15 On completion, refit the ignition module
as described in Chapter 5B then, where
applicable, refit the engine lop cover
¿28 T i m i n g belt, t o i s t o n e r
y.. a n d Idler p u l l e y renewal e
1.8 litre engines .
Refer lo the procedures contained in Chapter 2A.
S'SS Fuel filter renewal
1 The fuel filter is located under the rear of ttie
/( IS very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into ineir noies wiinoui crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility,
fit a short length of rubber hose over the
end of the spark plug. The flexible hose
acts as a universal joint to help align the
plug with the plug hole. Should the plug
begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip
oh the spark plug, preventing
thread
damage to the aluminium
cylinder
head.
vehicle where it is clipped onto the side of the
fuel tank (see illustration).
2 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in G h ^ e r 4 A .
3 Chock the frant wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands
(see JacMng and vehicle supfxirt).
4 Position a suitable container below the fuel
filter, to catch spilt fuel.
5 Disconnect the quick-release fittings and
remove the fuel hoses from the fuel filter,
noting their locations to ensure correct
refitting. A Vauxhall/Opel special tool is
Every 100 OOP miles or 10 years
lîî'
Valve clearance c h e c k
and adjustment I.SIitreZISXERenglnes
Refer to the procedures contained in
29.1 The fuel filter Is Clipped to the side Of
the fuel tank
available to disconnect the hose connectors,
but provided care is taken, the connections
can be released using a pair of long-nosed
pliers, or a similar tool, to depress the
retaining tangs. Be prepared for fuel spillage,
and take adequate precautions. Vauxhail/
Opel recommend that the connecting clips
of the quick-release connectors are renewed
whenever removed.
6 Lift the retaining tab and push the filter
forwards, out of the mounting bracket. Note
the orientation of the hiel flow direction anow.
7 Fitting the new filter is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
a) Ensure that the filter is fitted with the flow
direction arrow on the filter body pointing
in the direction of fuel flow.
b) Ensure that the hoses are reconnected to
their correct locations, as noted before
removal.
c) On completion, run the engine and ciieck
for leaks. If /eaftage is evident, stop
the engine immediately and rectify the
problem without delay.
Chapter 1 Part B:
Routine maintenance and servicing diesel models
Contents
Section n u m b e r
S e c t i o n number
28
22
13
a
7
26
10
16
3
27
11
9
21
5
Air cleaner element renewal
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal
Bodywork and underbody condition c h e c k . . .
Brake fluid pipe and hose check
Brake pad, caliper and disc check
Coolant renewal
Driveshaft check
Electrical systems check
Engine oil and filter renewal
Exhaust emission check
Exhaust system check
Front suspension and steering check
Fuel filter renewal
Fuel filter water draining
General information . .
Headlight beam alignment check
Hinge and lock lubrication
Hose and fluid leak check
Hydraulic fluid renewal
Pollen filter renewal
Power steenng flutd level check
Rear suspension check
Remote control battery renewal
Boad test
Roadwheel bolt tightness check
Service interval indicator reset
Timing belt, tensioner and idler pulley renewal . .
Valve clearance check and adjustment - Z19DT e igines
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
1^
1
F^tWficuft,
^
suitable for c o m p e t e n t ^
DIY mechanic
^
Difficult suitable
^
for experienced DIY ; K
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
17
15
4
25
20
6
12
2
24
18
14
19
29
23
iB*2
Servicing specifications - diesel models
Lubricants a n d fluids
Refer to Weekiy checks on page 0*1
Capacities
Engine oil (including oil filter)
Difference between MIN and MAX dipstick marks
4.3 litres
1.0 litre
Cooling system
"n^nsmisslon
Manual transmission
Automatic transmission (at fluid change)
Washer fluid reservoir
Witiiout headlight washers
With headlight washers
7.5 litres
2.2 litres
3.0 litres (approximately)
2.9 litres
5-6 litres
Fuel tank
Saloon and Hatchback models
Estate models
60 litres
61 litres
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture:
40% antifreeze
50% antifreeze
Protection down to -28°C
Protection down to -40°C
Brakes
Friction material minimum thickness {including backing plate):
Front brake pads
Rear brake pads
9.0 mm
8,0 mm
Torque wrench settings
Engine oil filter
Fuel filter housing cover retaining ring
Roadwheel bolts
Sump drain plug
Nm
15
30
110
20
Mil
11
22
81
15
Maintenance schedule - diesel models I B . 3
The maintenance intervals in ttiis manual are
pnsvided witii the assumption that you, not tiie
dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are
the minimum maintenance interuais based on
the standard sen/ice schedule recommended
by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily If
you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of
these procedures more often. We encourage
tregue
:e, because it enhar
the efficiency, performance and resale value
of your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used
to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow
speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,
more frequent maintenance intervals are
recommended.
When the vehicle is new, it should be
Every 250 miles or weekly
l_
Referto
Weekly
checks
fevery 10 000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first
C R e n e w t h e e n g i n e oil a n d fiiter ( S e c t i o n 3)
IKote: Vauxhall/Opel recommend that the engine oil and filter are
Changed every 20 000 miles or 12 months if the vehicle Is being
operated under the standard semioo schedule. However, oil and fitter
(Ganges are good for the engine and we recommend that the oil and
filter are renemed more frequently especially if ttie vehicle is used on
a lot of shod journeys.
Every 20 000 miles or 12 months whichever comes first
•
C h e c k all u n d e r b o n n e t a n d u n d e r b o d y
c o m p o n e n t s , p i p e s a n d h o s e s for feaks ( S e c t i o n 4)
•
Drain t h e w a t e r f r o m t h e fuel filter ( S e c t i o n 5)
•
C h e c k t h e p o w e r s t e e n n g f l u i d level ( S e c t i o n 6)
C i C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e b r a k e p a d s ( r e n e w if
n e c e s s a r y } , t h e c a l i p e r s a n d d i s c s { S e c t i o n 7)
L J C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of all b r a k e f l u i d p i p e s a n d
h o s e s ( S e c t i o n 8)
,L¡ Checi< t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e f r o n t s u s p e n s i o n a n d
steering c o m p o n e n t s , particularly the rubber
g a i t e r s a n d s e a i s ( S e c t i o n 9)
L ! C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e d r i v e s h a f t j o i n t g a i t e r s ,
a n d t h e d r i v e s h a f t j o i n t s {Section 10)
[ I C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e e x h a u s t s y s t e m
c o m p o n e n t s ( S e c t i o n 11)
L i C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e rear s u s p e n s i ó n
c o m p o n e n t s ( S e c t i o n 12)
L ' C h e c k the b o d y w o r k and underbody for d a m a g e
a n d c o r r o s i o n , a n d c h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e
u n d e r b o d y c o r r o s i o n p r o t e c t i o n ( S e c t i o n 13)
L ' C h e c k t h e t i g h t n e s s of t h e r o a d w h e e í b o l t s
( S e c t i o n 14)
_ i L u b r i c a t e all door, b o n n e t , b o o t lid a n d t a i l g a t e
h i n g e s a n d l o c k s ( S e c t i o n 15)
[_: C h e c k t h e o p e r a t i o n o f t h e h o r n , all lights, a n d t h e
_ w i p e r s a n d w a s h e r s ( S e c t i o n 16)
^ : C h e c k t h e h e a d l i g h t b e a m a l i g n m e n t ( S e c t i o n 17) • _ Carry o u t a r o a d t e s t ( S e c t i o n 18)
• ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ r v i c e interval i n d i c a t o r ( S e c t i o n 19)
serviced by a dealer service department
(or other workshop recognised by the
vehicle manufacturer as providing the same
standard of sen/ice) in order to preserve the
warranty. The vehicle manufacturer may reject
warranty claims if you are unable to prove that
servicing has been carried out as and when
specified, using only ong/nal equipment parts
or parts certified lo be of equivalent quality
Every 40 000 miles or 2 years whichever comes first
. I R e n e w t h e p o l l e n filter ( S e c t i o n 20)
:. I R e n e w t h e f u e i fifter ( S e c t i o n 21)
n C h e c k t h e auxiliary d r i v e b e l t a n d t e n s i o n e r
( S e c t i o n 22)
L j C h e c k , a n d if n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t , t h e v a l v e
c l e a r a n c e s - 2 1 9 D T e n g i n e s ( S e c t i o n 23)
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage^
I . Renew the battery for the remote control handset
( S e c t i o n 24)
i " . R e n e w t h e b r a k e a n d d u t c h f l u i d ( S e c t i o n 25)
L_. R e n e w t h e c o o l a n t ( S e c t i o n 2 6 ) '
I. E x h a u s t e m i s s i o n t e s t ( S e c t i o n 27)
' Note; Vehicles using Vauxhall/Opel silicate^^reecopiant. do jjot
need the coolant renewed on a regular basis: •-
Every 40 000 miles or 4 years whichever comes first
: J
•> 1
I.... R e n e w t h e air c l e a n e r filter e i e m e n t ( S e c t i o n 28)
S
I
R e n e w t h e t i m i n g belt, t e n s i o n e r a n d Idler puileys 3
( S e c t i o n 29)-*
«
* Note; The normal interval for timing belt renewal is 100 000 miles or"
10 years. However, it is strongly recommended that the inter/al used
is 40 000 miles on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use. le.
mainly short journeys or a lot ol stop-start driving. The actual belt.:
renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owi
tieann mind that severe engine damage will result if the beltbi
I B M Component location - diesel models
Underbonnet view of an SOHC engine mode!
Engine oil level dipstick
Engine oil filler cap
Air cleaner assembly
Front suspension stmt
upper mounting
Screen washer fluid
6
7
Airflow meter
Brake (and clutch) fluid
reservoir
8
Fuel filter
9
Coolant expansion tank
10 Battery
11 Fuse/relay box
12 ABS hydraulic modulator
Underbonnet view of a DOHC engine model
1
2
3
4
Engine oil level dipstick
Engine oil fiiter cap
Air cleaner assembly
Front suspension strut
upper mounting
5
Screen washer fluid
reservoir
6
Airflow meter
7
Brake (and dutch) fluid
reservoir
8
Fuel filter
9
Coolant expansion tank
10 Battery
11 Fuse/relay box
12 ABS hydraulic modulator
Component location - diesel models I B . 5
Front underbody view
1
2
3
Exhaust front pipe
Steering track rods
Front suspension lower
arms
4
Fnont brah:e calipers
5
Engine mounting front
torque Unit
6
Engine mounting rear
torque link
7
Right-hand driveshaft
8
IVIanual transmission
9
Engine oil drain plug
10 Air conditioning
compressor
11 Electric cooling fan
12 Front subframe
©
e
Rear underbody view
1
2
Handbrake cable
Exhaust tailpipe and
silencer
3
Exhaust heat shield
4
Rear axle body
5
Rear hub carrier
6
Lower control arm
7
Upper control arm
8
Auxiliary control arm
9
Shock absortier
10 Rear anti-roll bar
11 Rear suspension trailing
12 Fuel tank
1 B . 6 Maintenance procedures - diesel models
1
General i n f o r m a t i o
1 "mis Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peal< performance.
2 The Chapter contains a master maintenance
schedule, followed by Sections deaimg
specifically with each task in the schedule.
Visual checks, adjustments, component
renewal and other heipfui items are included.
Refer to the accompanying illustrations of
the engine compartment and the underside
of the vehicle for the locations of the various
components.
3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections wili provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable sen/ice life. ITils Is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
Items but not others at the specified service
inten/als wili not produce the same results.
4 As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can ~
and should - be grouped together, because
of the particular procedure being performed,
or because of the proximity of two otherwiseunrelated components to one another. For
example, "rf the vehicle is raised for any reason,
the exhaust can be inspected at the same time
as the suspension and steering components.
5 The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried out,
then make a list and gather all the parts and
tools required. If a problem Is encountered,
seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer
service department.
2
Regular m a i n t e n a n c e
conventional maintenance as described In this
Chapter will not greatly Improve the
performance of the engine, and may prove a
waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul wori< Is carried out first.
4 The following series of operations are
those most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary
1 if, from the time the vehicle is nevj, the
routine maintenance scheduie is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be kept
in relatively good running condition, and the
need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be times when
the engine Is running poorly due to the lack
of regular maintenance. TTiis is even more
likely if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance Intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to the appropriate part of Chapter 2)
will provide valuable information reganiing the
overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to
be carried out. If, for example, a compression
test indicates serious internal engine wear.
operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (refer
to Weelily ched(s).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer
to Weekly checks).
c} Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Section 22).
d) Check the condition of the air niter, and
renew if necessary (Section 28).
e) Rer^w the fuel filter (Sec^on 21).
f) Check the condition of ail hoses, and
check for fluid /eaAs (Section 4).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary
operations
All Items listed under Primary operations, plus
the following:
a) Check the charging system (refer to
Chapter 5A).
b) Check the pre/post-heating system (refer
to Chapter 5fi).
c) Check the fuel, exhaust and emission
control systems (refer to the appropriate
Parts of Chapter 4).
Every 10 OOP miles or 6 months
3
Engine oil a n d fiiter renewal
: JTA'JJIJ^ Frequent
oil and
filter
'1 changes
are the
most
HlHITj important
preventative
' maintenance
procedures
which can be undertaken by the DIY
.owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes
. diluted and contaminated, which leads
•- to premature engine wear
1 Before starting this procedure, gather
together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warni,
as it will drain more easily, and more built-up
sludge will be removed with it. Take care not
to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of
the engine when working under the vehicle. Jo
avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect
yourself from possible skin initants and other
harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is
advisable to
when carrying out
this work.
2 Access to the underside of the vehicie will
be greatly impnaved if it can be raised on
a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and
supported on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support). Whichever method is chosen,
make sure that the vehicie remains level, or if
It is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the
lowest point. Remove the engine undertray for
3 Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft
cover or oil filler housing, as applicable (twist
if through a quarter-turn anti-clockwise and
withdraw it} (see Illustration).
4 Using a spanner, or preferably a suitable
socket and bar, slacken the drain plug about
half a turn (see illustration). Position the
draining container under the drain plug, then
remove the plug completely (see Haynes
Hint).
5 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting
Every 10 000 miles - diesel models 1B.7
As the drain plug releases from the
threads, move it away quickly so that j
the stream of oil running out of the
sump goes into the drain pan and not i
up your sleeve.
•
ary !o reposition tine
container as the oil tiow slows to a triclde.
6 Position another container under ttie oil
filter Ttie filter is located at the rear of the
engine and is accessible from under the car.
7 Unscrew the filter housing cap and wittidraw
it, together with the element, then separate
the element, and remove the two 0-ring seals
from the cap (see illustrations).
8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge fnam the oil filter housing and cap.
9 Locate the new 0-ring seals in their grooves
on the housing cap, then locate the new
element in the cap and insert them both in the
filter housing. Screw on the cap and tighten to
the specified torque.
10 After all the oil has drained, wipe the
drain plug and the sealing washer/O-ring
with a clean rag. Examine the condition of
the sealing washer/O-ring, and renew it if it
shows signs of damage which may prevent an
oil-tight seal. Clean the area ansund the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug complete with
the washer/O-ring. Tighten the plug to the
specified tongue, using a torque wrench.
3.7a UnsCTi
Every 20 OOP miles or 12 months
4
Hose a n d fluid leak c h e c k
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 4.
5
nd withdraw
It toge..._
lerrt . . .
11 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
12 Fill the engine through the filler hole in
the camshaft cover or oil filler housing, as
applicable, using the correct grade and type
of oil (refer to Weekly checks for details of
topping-up). Pour in half the specified quantity
of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil
to drain into the sump. Continue to add oil, a
small quantity at a time, until the level is up
to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding
apprciximately a further 1.0 litre will bring the
level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.
13 Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature. While the
engine is warming-up, check for leaks around
the oil filter and the sump drain plug.
14 Stop the engine, and wait at least five
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated ^ d the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
15 Dispose of the used engine oil and filter
safely, with reference to General repair
alternator and starter motor, the coolant
hoses and engine mountings, and any
wiring.
1 The fuel filter is located ai the rear of the
engine compartment, in the centre of the
bulkhead.
2 Disconnect the heater element wjnng
3.7b . . . then separate the element from
the c a p . . .
3.7c . . . and remove the two 0-ring seals
procedures in the Reference Chapter of this
manual. Do not discard the old filter with
domestic household waste. The facility for
waste oil disposal provided by many local
council refuse tips and/or recycling centres
generally has a filter receptacle alongside.
connector from the fuel filter cover, and the
water level sensor wiring connector from the
base of the fiiter housing (see illustrations).
3 Using a screwdnver inserted from the
nght-hand side, depress the retaining clip
and lift the filter from the crash box (see
illustration).
Fuel filter w a t e r draining
Caution: Before starting any work on the
fuel filter, wipe clean the fiiter assemWy
and the area around it; it is essential
that no dirt or other foreign matter Is
allowed into the system. Obtain a suitable
container into which the fiiter can be
drained and place rags or similar material
under the filter assemoly to catch any
spillages. Do not allow diesel fuel to
contaminate
components
such as the
5.2b . . . and the water level sensor Wiring
connector from the base of ^ e filter housing
1B.8 Every 20 000 miles - diesel models
13 Hinge a n d lock l u b r i c a t i o n
Refer to Chapter 1 A, Section 15.
16 Electrical s y s t e m s c h e c k
5.3 Depress the retaining clip and lift the
filter from the crash box
4 In addition to taking the precautions noted
above to catch any fuel spillages, connect a
tube to the drain screw on the base of the fuel
filter (see lllustraHon). Place the other end of
the tube in a clean jar or can.
5 Loosen the drain screw approximately one
complete turn and allow the filter to drain
until clean fuel, free of dirt or water, emerges
from the tube [approximately 100 cc is usually
sufficient).
6 Remove the drain tube, then tighten the
drain screw securely.
7 Insert the filter in the crash box making sure
that the retaining clip engages.
8 Reconnect the wiring.
9 On completon, dispose of the drained fuel
safely. Check all disturbed components to
ensure that there are no leaks (of air or fuel)
when the engine is restarted.
Power s t e e r i n g
fluid level c h e c k
6
Refer to Chapter 10. Section 31.
7
B r a k e p a d , caliper
and disc check
Refer to Chapter 1 A, Sectio
'6
Brake f l u i d pipe
a n d hose c h e c k
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 8
5.4 Fuel filter drain &
9
Front s u s p e n s i o n
and steering check
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 9.
Referto Chapter 1A, Section 16.
17 Headlight b e a m
alignment check
Refer to Chapter 1 A, Section 17.
10 Driveshaft c h e c k
18 R o a d t e s t
Refer to Chapter 1A. Section 10.
11 Exhaust s y s t e m c h e c k
Refer to Chapter 1 A, Section 11,
12 Rear s u s p e n s i o n c h e c k
Refer to Chapter 1A. Section 12.
13 B o d y w o r k a n d
u n d e r b o d y contfitron c h e c k
3r lo Chapter 1 A, Section 13.
14 R o a d w h e e l b o l t
tightness check
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 1.
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 18.
19 Service interval
i n d i c a t o r reset
1 With the ignition switched off, the display
on the Instrument panel must show the tnp
odometer
2 With the ignition still switched oft, depress
and hold the trip odometer reset button located
on the instnjment panel. After appnaximately
3 seconds the display wiii show the service
symbol.
3 With the reset button depressed, also
depress the brake pedai and switch on the
ignition. 1nSP - - -' will appear in the display.
4 After approximately 10 seconds the
display wili show 'InSP' followed by the
maximum mileage before the next required
service indicating that the service interval
indicator has been reset. Release the reset
button and brake pedal, then switch off the
ignition.
Every 40 OOP miles or 2 years
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 20.
Caution: Bafore starting any work on the
fuel fitter, wipe clean the filter assembly
and the area around It; it is essential that
no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed
Into the system. Obtain a suitable container
into which the filter can be drained and
place rags or similar matenal under the
Every 40 000 miles - diesel models 1B.9
21.3a Depress the quick-release
connector retaining tangs . . .
1
id
21 .ga Unscrew mid remove the cover
retaining ring...
ffVter assembly to catch any spillages.
Do not allow diesel fuel to contaminate
components such as the starter motor, the
coolant hoses and engine mountings, and
any winng.
N o t e : Vauxhall/Opel
special
tool
EN-46784-010, or a suitable alternative will be
required to unscrew the filter housing cover
retaining ring.
1 The fuel filter is located at the rear of the
engine comparlment, in the centre of the bulkhead.
2 Disconnect the heater element wiring
connector fram the fuel filter cover, and the
water level sensor wiring connector from the
base of the filter housing (see itkistrations 5.2a
and 5.2b).
3 Detach the two fuel hose quick-release
connectors and remove the hoses from the
fuel filter housing and cover. A Vauxhail/
21.9c . . . and recover the O-ring seal
Opel special tool (KM-796-A) i
disconnect the hose connectors, but provided
care is taken, the connections can be released
using two screwdrivers, a pair of long-nosed
pliers, or similar, to depress the retaining tangs
(see illustrations). Suitably covw or plug the
open hose connections to prevent dirt entry.
4 Using a screwdriver inserted from the
right-hand side, depress the retaining clip and
lift the filter housing from the crash box.
5 Loosen the drain screw on the base of ttie
filter housing one complete turn and drain the
fuel into a suitable container. Tighten the drain
screw securely once the filter has drained.
6 Lay the filter on its side and clamp the two
filter housing mounting lugs in a soft-iawed
vice. Take great care not to damage the lugs
and only tighten the vice sufficiently to hold
the housing while the cover retaining nng is
slackened.
7 Slacken the filter housing cover retaining
ring using the Vauxhall/Opel special tool or a
suitable alternative (see illustration).
8 Reposition the filter housing vertically in the
vice and tighten the vice lightly.
9 Fully unscrew tiie cover retaining ring, then
lift the cover together with the filter element
from the housing. Recover the O-ring seal
(see lllusb'ations).
10 Turn the filter element approximately 50°
anti-clockwise to release it from the cover
(see illustration).
11 Empty the fuel from the filter housing, then
thoroughly clean the housing and cover with a
lint-free cloth.
12 Align the anow on the new filter element
with the corresponding arrow on the cover
then push tiie filter onto the cover until it locks
position (s
1B-10 Every 40 OOP miles - diesel models
21.13a Locate a new O-rlng seal on the
filter housing . . .
22.7a TUrn the drivebelt tensioner
clockwise using a spanner on the pulley
centre bolt (arrowed)...
housing, then fit the element and co
the
housing (see illustrations).
14 Lubricate the threads of the retaining ring
with a little diesel fuel then screw the ring
onto the housing. Reposition the housing
horizontally m the vice as before, and tighten
the retaining ring to the specified torque using
the special tool or alternative.
15 Insert the filter assembly into the crash
box, making sure that the retaining clip
engages. Reconnect the fuel hoses and the
wiring connectors.
16 Bleed the fuel system as described
in Chapter 4B and check all disturbed
components to ensure that there are no leaks
(of air or fuel) when the engine is restarted.
17 On completion, safely dispose of the
dfueL
22.9a Auxiliary dHvebelt configuration
models without air conditioning . . .
separation of the be\t plies. It will be necessary
to turn the engine (using a spanner or socket
and bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt) so that
the belt can be inspected thoroughly. Twist
the belt between the puiieys so that both
sides can tie viewed. Also check for fraying,
and glazing which gives the belt a shiny
appearance. Check the pulleys for nicks,
cracks, distortion and corrosion. If the belt
shows signs of wear or damage, it should be
renewed as a precaution against breakage in
service.
Renewal
21.13b . . . then fit the element and c
to the housing
22.7b . . . then lock the tensioner by
inserting a locking pin or dnil bit (arrowed)
through the special hole
22 Auxiliary drivebelt
c h e c k a n d renewal
^
^
Checking
1 Due to their function and material make-up,
drivebelts are prone to failure after a long
period of time and should therefore be
inspected regularly,
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel and the engine
undertray.
3 With the engine stopped, inspect the
full length of the drivebelt for cracks and
4 If not already done, apply the handbrake,
then jack up the front ot the vehicle and
support it on axie stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front
roadwheel and the engine undertray
5 For additional working clearance, remove
the air cleaner housing as described in Chapter 4B.
6 It the drivebelt is to be re-used, mark it to
indicate Its normal running direction,
7 Using a spanner on the pulley centre t>olt,
turn the tensioner clockwise against the
spring tension. Hold the tensioner in this
position by inserting a suitable locking pin or
drill bit through the special hole provided (see
Illustrations).
a Slip the drivebelt from the puileys.
9 Locate the new drivebelt on the pulleys in
the correct routing (see illustrations). If the
drivebelt is being re-used, make sure it is
fitted the conect way around.
10 Turn back the tensioner and remove the
locking pin/driii bit, then release It, making
sure that the drivebelt ribs locate correctly on
each ot the pulley gnaoves.
11 Refit the air cleaner housing (if removed),
then refit the engine undertray and roadwheel,
and lower the vehicle to the ground.
3 Vatve clearance
check and adjustment Z19DT engines
Maintenance procedures - diesel models I B . H
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
vehicle. However, it is strongly recommended
that the coolant is renewed at the intervals
specined in the 'Ivtalntenance schedule; as a
precaution against possible engine conoslon
problems. This Is particularly advisable If the
coolant has been renewed using an antifreeze
other than that specified by Vauxhall/Opel.
With many antifreeze types, the corrosion
inhibitors become progres^vely less effective
with age. It is up to the individual owner
whether or not to follow this advice.
2 4 R e m o t e control
battery renewal
Refer to Chapter 1A, Section 22
.25 Hydraulic fluid renewal
A
Warning: Hydraulic fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme caution
when handling and pouring it Do not use
ffuid that has been standing open for some
time, as it atisarbs moisture from the air
Excess moisture can cause a dangerous
loss of braking affaotiveness.
Note: The bi^ke and clutch hydraulic systems
1 The procedure is similar to that for the
bleodina of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapters 9 (bralce) and 6 (clutch).
2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly
all the old fluid has been emptied from the
master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the IVlAX
level with new fluid, and continue pumping
until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir,
and new fluid can be seen emerging from the
bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the
reservoir level up tg the MAX level line.
i'm'i!l^-| Old hydraulic fluid is invanably
much darker in colour than
V, making it easy to
distinguish the two.
Hint
\
\
I
'
3 Work through ail the remaining bleed screws
in the sequence until new fluid can be seen
at all of them. Be careful to keep the master
cylinder resen/oir topped-up to above the MIN
level at all times, or air may enter the system
and greatly increase the leng*i of the task,
4 Bleed the fluid from the clutch hydraulic
system as described in Chapter 6.
5 When the operation is complete, check that
all bleed screws are securely tightened, and
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all
traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level.
6 Check the operation of the brakes and
clutch before taking the car on the road.
A
Warning: Wait until the engine
is cold before
starting
this
procedure. Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin, or with
the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse
off spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in
an open container, or in a puddle In the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and pets are attracted by Its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.
Cooling
system
draining
1 To drain the cooling system, first cover the
expansion tank cap with a wad of rag, and
slowly turn the cap anti-clockwise to relieve the
pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound
will nomially be heard). Wait until any pressure
remaining in the system is released, then
continue to turn the cap until It can be removed.
2 Remove the wigine undertray, then position
a suitable container beneath the right-hand
side of the radiator.
3 The coolant drain plug is located at the
bottom of the radiator left-hand end tank.
Unscrew the drain plug and allow the coolant
4 When the flow of coolant stops, refit and
tighten the drain plugs.
5 As no cylinder block drain plug is fitted, it
IS not possible to drain all of the coolant. Due
consideration must be made for this when
refilling the system, in order to maintain the
conect concentration of antifreeze.
S If the coolant has been drained for a
reason other than renewal, then prowded it is
clean and less than two years old. It can be
re-used.
26 Coolant renewal
Note: Vauxhail/Opel do not specify
Intervals lor tlie anlilrBeze mixiure, as the
mixture used to fill the system when the vehicle
is new is designed to last the lifetime of the
26.18a Lift up the wire clip and disconnect
the left-hand heater hose from the heater
matrix pipe s t u b . . .
Cooling
system
flushing
7 If coolant renews has been neglected, or
it the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then In time, the cooling system may gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,
and other sediment. The cooling system
efficiency can be restored by flushing the
system clean.
8 Theradiatorshould be flushed independentiy
of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.
Radiator f l u s h i n g
9 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and
any other relevant hoses from the radiator,
witii reference to Chapter 3,
10 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top
inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the
radiator, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
11 If after a reasonable period, the wafer still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
impcMlant that the manufacturer's Instmctions
are followed carefully. If the contamination is
particularly bad, remove the radiator, insert
the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and
reveree-flush the radiator.
Engine
flushing
12 To flush the engine, the thermostat must
be removed, because it will be shut, and
would otherwise prevent the flow of water
around the engine. The thermostat can be
removed as described in Chapter 3, Take care
not to intnxluce dirt or debris into the system
If this approach is used.
13 With the bottom hose disconnected
Irom the radiator, insert a garden hose into
the thermostat opening. Direct a clean flow
of water through the engine, and continue
flushing until clean water emerges from the
radiator bottom hose.
14 On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat with reference to Chapter 3, and
reconnect the hoses.
Cooling
system
filling
15 Before attempting to fill the cooling
system, make sure that all hoses and clips are
In good condition, and that the clips are tight.
Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used
all year round, to prevent con-osion of the
engine components.
16 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
17 Fill the system by slowly pouring the
coolant into the expansion tank until It is up to
the filler neck.
18 Using a small screwdriver, lift up the wire
clip securing the left-hand heater hose to the
heater matrix pipe stub, and disconnect the
hose from the stub. Additionally, open the
bleed screw in the coolant pipe above the
exhaust manifold (see Illustrations).
19 As soon as coolant begins to OJn from the
1B»12 Every 2 years - diesel models
26.1 « j . . . then open the bleed screw
(arrowed) In the coolant pipe above the
exhaust manifold
heater matrix, push the securing wire clip back
into position on the heater hose end fitting,
then push the hose back onto tìie matrix pipe
stub. Ensure that the wire clip securely locks
the hose in position. Close the coolant pipe
bleed screw as soon as coolant emerges.
20 Top-up the expansion tank until the
coolant level is up to the KALT/COLD mark on
the side of the tank.
21 Refit the expansion tank filler cap.
22 Start the engine and run it at 2000 to
2500 rpm for 30 seconds, allow it to idle for
5 seconds, then run it at 2000 to 2500 rpm
again for a further 30 seconds.
23 Continue running the engine at idling
speed and allow it to warm-up. When the
cooling fan cuts-in, run the engine again at
2000 to 2500 rpm for 30 seconds, allow it
to idle for 5 seconds, then run it at 2000 to
2500 rpm again for a further 30 seconds.
24 Stop the engine, and allow it to cool, then
recheck the coolant level with reference to
Weekly checks. Top-up the level if necessary
and refit the expansion tank filler cap. Refit the
engine undertray.
9
mixture
25 Always use an ethylene-glycol based
antifreeze which is suitable for use in
mixed-metal cooling systems. Note: Vauxhail/
Opel recommend the use of silicate-free
•red' coolant (09 194 431). The quantity of
antifreeze and levels of protection are given in
the Specifications.
Every 40 OOP miles or 4 years
• 28 A i r cleaner e i e m e n t renewal
Refer to Chapter lA, Section 26.
26 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security.
27 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used, and
the date Installed, Any subsequent topping-up
should be made whh the same type and
concenVation of antifreeze.
Caution: Da not use engine antifreeze in
the windscreen/tailgate
washer system,
as It wiii cause damage to the vehicle
paintwork. A screenwash additive should
be added to the washer system In the
quantities stated on the bottle.
29 T i m i n g belt, tensioner
a n d idler pulley renewal
27 Exhaust e m i s s i o n c h e c k
Chapter 2 Part A:
1.8 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Section number
Camshaft and followers - removal, inspection and refitting
12
Camshaft cover - removal and refitting
4
Camshaft oil seals - renewal
10
Compression test-general information
2
Cranlistiaft oil seais-renewal
17
CraniiShaft pulley - removal and refitting
5
Cyl nder head - removal and refitting
13
Engine/transmission mountings - Inspection and renewal
18
Flywheel -removal, inspection and refitting
16
General information
1
Section numljer
Oil pump - removal, overtiaul and refitting
Sump - removal and refitting
Timing belt - removal and refitting
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting
Timing belt sprocttets, tensioner and idler pulleys - removal and
refitting
Top dead centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
Valve clearances (Z18XER engines) - checking and adjustment
W T oil control valves P18XER engines) - removal and refitting
15
14
7
6
8
3
11
9
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with liffle
experience
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner wi»i
s o m e experience
^
^
^
FailyiHficult,
statable for conpetent
DIY mechanic
^
^
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
^
DIY or preifessional
2^
Specifications
General
Engine type
Four-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled. Double overhead camshafts,
belt-driven
Manufacturer's engine code*
Z1SXE and Z18XER
Bore
80.5 mm
Stroke
88.2 mm
Capacity
1796 cc
Compression ratio
10.5:1
Firing onjer
1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Direction of crankshaft
rcrtation
Clockwise (viewed from timing belt end of engine)
* For details of engine code location, see 'Vehicle Identification' in the Reference Chapter.
Compression pressures
standard
14 to 16 bar
Maximum difference between any two cylinders
1 bar
Valve clearances (Z18XER engines)
Engine cold:
Inlet
Exhaust
Lubrication system
Minimum oil pressure at 80''C
Oil pump type
Ro to r-to-housing clearance (endfloat):
Z18XE engines
Z18XER engines
0.21 to 0.29 mm
0.27 to 0.35 mm
1.3 bar at idle speed
Rotor-type, driven directly fre>m oankshaft
0.03 to 0.10 mm
0.02 to 0.058 mm
Torque wrench settings
Z18XE engines
Auxiliary drivebelt tenslorwr bolt
Camsiiaft bearing cap bolts
Camsliaft cover bolts
Camsiiaft sprocled
In Chapter 2E,
Chapter 2E describes the removal of the
engine/transmission unit from the vehicle, and
the full overhaul procedures which can then
be earned out.
Engine
description
The engine is a double overhead camshaft,
four-cylinder, in-line unit, mounted transversely
at the front of the car. with the transmission
attadied to its left-hand endThe crankshaft is supported within the
cylinder block on f ve shell-type main beanngs.
Thrustwashers are fitted to number 3 mam
bearing, to control crankshaft endfloat.
The connecting rods are attached to the
crankshaft by horizontally-split shell-type
big-end bearings, and to the pistons by
Interference-fit gudgeon pins. The aluminium
alloy pistons are of the slipper type, and are
fitted with three piston rings, comprising two
compression rings and a scraper-type oil
control ring.
The camshafts run directly in the cylinder
head, and are driven by the crankshaft via a
toothed composite rubber timing belt (which
also drives the coolant pump on Z18XE
engines). One camshaft operates the inlet
valves, and the other operates the exhaust
valves.
On ZtaXE engines, the camshafts operate
each valve via a hydraulic self-adjusting
camshaft follower On ZISXER engines, the
camshafts operate each valve via a solid
camshaft follower. The camshaft followers are
available in various thicknesses to facilitate
valve clearance adjustment.
On Zl 8XER engines, a variable valve timing
(WT) system is employed. The W T system
allows the inlet and exhaust camshaft timing
to be varied under the control of the engine
management system, to tioost both low-speed
torque and top-end power, as well as reducing
exhaust emissions. The W T camshaft adjuster
IS integral with each camshaft timing belt
sprocket, and is supplied with two pressurised
oil feeds through passages in the camshaft
Itself. Two electra-magnetic oil control valves,
one for each camshaft and operated by the
engine management system, are fitted to the
cylinder head, and are used to supply the
pressurised oil to each camshaft adjuster
through the two oil feeds. Each adjuster
contains two chambers - depending on which
of the two oil feeds is enabled by the control
valve, the oil pressure will turn the camshaft
clockwise (advance) or anti-clockwise (retard)
to adjust the valve timing as required, if
pressure is removed from both feeds, this
induces a timing 'hold' condition. Thus the
valve timing is infinitely variable within a given
range.
Lubrication is by pressure-feed from a
rotor-type oil pump, which is mounted on the
right-hand end of the crankshaft. The pump
draws oil through a strainer located in the
sump, and then forces it through an externally
mounted full-flow oil filter. The oil flows into
galleries in the cylinder block/crankcase, from
where it is distributed to the crankshaft {main
bearings) and camshafts. The big-end bearings
are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft, while the camshaft bearings also
receive a pressurised supply. The camshaft
lobes and valves are lubricated by splash, as
are all other engine components,
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
IS employed; crankcase fumes are drawn frcim
camshaft cover, and passed via a hose to the
inlet manifold.
Operations
with engine
in car
The following operations can tie can-ied out
without having to remove the engine from the
a) Removal and refitting of the camshaft
bj Adjustment of the valve clearances
¡118XER engines).
c) Removal and refitting of the WT oil
control vaives (ZISXER engines).
d) Removal and refitting of the cylinder
head
e) Removal and refitting of the timing belt,
tensionerand sprockets.
f) Renevi/el of the camshaft oil seals.
g) Removal and refitting of the camshafts
and followers.
h) Removal and refitting of the sump.
i) Removal and refitting of the connecting
rods and pistons.'
j) Removal and refitting of the oil pump.
k) Renewal ol the crankshaft oil seals.
I) Renewal of the engine mountings.
m) Removal and refitting of the flywheel.
' Although the operation marked with an
asterisk can be carried out with the engine
in the car (after removal of the sump), it is
preferable for the engine to be removed, in the
interests of cleanliness end improved access.
For this reason, the procedure is described in
Chapter 2E.
2
Compression test general information
1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed
to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can pnavide diagnostic clues as to the
engine's condition. If the test is performed
regulariy, it can give warning of trouble tiefore
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 Due to the electronic throttle control system
used on these engines, a compression
test can only be canied out with the engine
management electronic control unit connected
to Vauxhall/Opel diagnostic test equipment, or
a compatible alternative unit. Without the test
equipment, the throttle valve cannot be opened
(as there is no accelerator cable) and the test
will be inconclusive. Note that even with the
accelerator pedal fully depressed, the engine
management ECU will only control the throttle
valve position when the engine is actually
running. The test equipment independently
actuates the throttle valve (irrespective of ECU
commands) and opens the throttle valve fully.
3 As the equipment needed for the
compression test is unlikely to be available
to the horne mechanic, it is recommended
that the test is pertomied by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer, or suitably-equipped garage.
3
Top d e a d centre
(TDC) for No 1 piston locating
1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that a piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC
at the end of the compression stroke, and
again at the end of the exhaust stroke. For
the purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers
to the position of No 1 piston at the end of its
compression stroke. No 1 piston and cylinder
are at the timing belt end of the engine.
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
[refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter), If necessary, remove all
the sparii plugs as described in Chapter 1A to
enable the engine to be easily turned over.
3 Remove the timing belt upper cover as
oescribed in Section 6.
4 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel, then remove
the wheel arch liner inner cover for access to
the crankshaft pulley
5 Using a socket and extension bar on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft
until the timing marks on the camshaft
sprockets are facing towards each other,
and an imaginary straight line can be drawn
through the camshaft sprocket ttolts and the
timing marks. With the camshaft sprocket
marks correctly positioned, align the notch
3.5a Align the camshaft timing m a r k s . . .
aSb . . . and the notch on the c r a n k ^ a f t
pulley rim with the mark on the timing belt
lower cover - Z18XE engines
3.5c Align the camshaft timing marks
on the crankshaft pulley rim with the mark on
the timing belt lower cover (see illustrations).
The engine is now positioned with No 1 piston
at TDC on its compression stroke.
6 If the crankshaft pulley and lower timing
belt cover have been removed, the timing
mark on the crankshaft spnDcket can be used
instead of the mark on the pulley. The mark
on the crankshaft spnaoket must align with the
corresponding mark on the timing belt rear
cover, or oil pump housing (see illustration)
4
Camshaft cover removal and refitting
Z18XE
Bngin&s
Removal
1 Remove the oil filler cap, then undo the
retaining screws, and remove the plastic cover
irom the top of the engine. Refit the oil filler
cap.
2 Remove the ignition module fnam the spark
plugs with reference to Chapter 5B.
3 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the breather hoses from the left-hand rear of
the cover (see illustration).
4 Disconnect the wiring plug from the coolant
temperature sensor and camshaft sensor, then
release the wiring harness from tiie camshaft
cover.
5 Disconnect the coolant pipe from the
thennostat housing. Unbolt the retaining bracket
from the camshaft cover and inlet manifold,
release the retaining dips and move the pipe to
CBie side. Be prepared for coolant spillage.
6 Uncllp the oxygen sensor wiring from the
camshaft cover.
7 Evenly and progressively slacken and
remove the camshaft cover retaining bolts.
8 Lift the camshaft cover away from the
cylinder head and recover the rubber seal.
Examine the seal for signs of wear or damaoe
and renew if necessary.
Refitting
S Ensure the cover and cylinder head
surfaces are clean and dry tnen tit tne mooer
seal securely to the cover groove (see
Hustration).
3.5d . . . and the notch on the crankshaft
pulley nm with the mark on the liming belt
lower cover (arrowed) - Z18XER engines
10 Apply a smear of suitable sealant to
areas of the cylinder head surface around the
right-hand end inlet and exhaust camshaft
bearing caps.
11 Carefully manoeuvre the camshaft cover
into position, taking great care to ensure the
seal remains correctly seated. Refit the cover
retaining bolts and tighten the retaining bolts
to the specified tongue, working in a spiral
pattern from the centre outwanjs.
12 Reconnect the coolant pipe to the
thermostat housing, making sure it is secured
by the retaining bracket on the camshaft cover
and inlet manifold.
13 Refit the wiring plugs to the coolant
temperature sensor and camshaft sensor Clip
the oxygen sensor wiring back into position in
the camshaft cover.
14 Reconnect the breather hoses, securing
them in position with the retaining clips.
4.3 Disconnect the breather hoses from
the camshaft cover - Z18XE engines
3.6 Crankshaft Sprocket trmmg mar* {/y
aligned with mark (B) on timing belt rear
cover (crankshaft pulley removed)
15 Refit 'he ignition module with reference to
Chapter 5B.
16 Refit the engine cover, then top-up the
cooling system as described in Chapter 1A.
ZISXER
engines
Removal
17 Remove the ignition module from the
spark plugs as described In Chapter 5B.
18 Uft the wiring harness up and out of tiie
support on the right-hand end of the camshaft
cover (see illustration).
19 Uncllp the wiring harness trough from the
rear of the camshaft cover (see Illustration).
20 Pull out the retaining wire clip and disconnect the tireather hose from the camshaft
cover (see Illustration).
21 Unscrew the eleven bolts securing the
camshaft cover to the cylinder head.
22 Lift tne camshaft cover awav from the
4.9 Carefully fit Hie camshaft ci
Z18XE engines
4.18 Lift the wiring harness out of the
support on the camshaft cover ZiaXER engines
4.20 Pull out the retaining wire clip and
disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft c o v e r - ZISXER engines
cylinder head and recover the rubber seal.
Examine the seal for signs of wear or damage
and renew if necessary.
Refitting
23 Ensure that the camshaft cover grove and
njbber seal are clean and dry with all traces
of oil removed. If necessary, degrease the
seal and cover groove with brake cleaner or a
similar product.
24 Clean the mating surface of the cylinder
head and the area around the camshaft
bearing caps at the timing belt end, ensuring
that all traces of oil are removed.
25 Locate the rubber seal into the grooves
of the camshaft cover ensuring that it is fully
seated, wrth no chance of it falling out as the
cover is fitted (see illustration},
26 Carefully manoeuvre the camshaft cover
4.19 UnclJp the wiring tiamess trough from
the rear of the camshaft cover ZISXER engines
4.25 Locate the rubber seal into the
grooves of the camshaft cover ZISXER engines
into position, taking great care to ensure the
seal remains con-ectly seated. Screw in all the
cover retaining bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque, working in a spiral pattern
from the centre outwards.
27 Reconnect the engine breather hose,
then clip the wiring harness trough back into
position. Engage the wiring harness with the
support on cover.
28 Refit the ignition module to the spark
plugs as described in Chapter 58.
5
Crankshaft pulley -
^
removal and refitting
^
Note; A new pulley retaining bolt v/il! be
required on refitting.
Removal
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand roadwheel, then
remove the wheel arch liner inner cover lor
access to the crankshaft pulley
2 Remove the auxiliary dnvebelt as described
tn Chapter 1A. Prior to removal, mark the
direction of rotation on the tielt to ensure the
belt is refitted the same way around,
3 Slacken the crankshaft pulley retaining
bolt. To prevent crankshaft rotation, have an
assistant select top gear and apply the brakes
firmly. Alternatively, on ZISXER engines,
engage a strip of metal with the flywheel ring
gear teeth through the access slot located just
aoove the front engine mounting/torque link
(see illustration)4 IJnscrew the retaining bolt and washer and
remove the crankshatt pulley from the end of
the crankshaft5 Refit the crankshaft pulley, aligning the
pulley cut-out with the raised notch on the
timing belt sprocket, then fit the washer and
new retaining bolt (see Illustration).
6 Lock the crankshaft by the method used on
removal, and tighten the pulley retaining bolt
to the specified Stage 1 torque setting, then
angle-tighten the bolt through the specified
Stage 2 anule. tisiiiu a socket and extension
bar, and finally through the specified Stage 3
angle,
nooa that an anglemeasuring gauge
jsed during the final
stages of the tighter
, to ensure accuracy If
a gauge is not ava
ailable, use white paint to
make alignm
arks between the bolt head
and pulley pnot lo tightening; the marks can
then be used to check that the bolt has t>een
rotated through the correct angle.
7 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A using the mark made prior to
removal to ensure the belt is fitted the correct
way around,
8 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover and
the roadwheel. Lower the car to the ground
and tighten the wheel bolts to the specified
torque.
6
T i m i n g belt c o v e r s -
^
removal and refitting
^
Z18XE
engines
Upper c o v e r
5.3 Engage a strip of metal wHh the
flywheel ring gear teeth tiirough the
access slot (amjwed) - ZISXER engines
1 Remove the oil filler cap, then undo the
retaining screws, and remove the plastic cover
from the top of the engine. Refit the oil tiller
cap.
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and intake
ducts as described in Chapter 4A.
3 Undo the three retaining screws then unclip
the upper cover from the rear cover and
•
U i i i ' t h Mil
I
removefhe
!E engines
remove it from ttie engine compartment (see
illustration).
4 Refitting Is ttie reverse of removal, tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.
Lower c o v e r
5 Remove the upper cover as described in
paragr^hs 1 to 3.
6 Remove the crankshaft pulley as descrit>ed
in Section 5.
7 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
auxiliary drivebelt tensioner {see illustration),
8 Undo the retaining bolt then unclip the lower
cover from the rear cover and manoeuvre it
out of position (see Illustration).
9 Refitting is the reverse of removal, clip the
cover into position and tighten the cover txilts
and auxiliary drivebelt tensioner bolt to the
specified tongue.
Rear c o v e r
10 Remove the timing belt as descnt>ed in
Section 7.
11 Remove the camshaft sprockets,
crankshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner,
front idler pulley and the rear idlei- pulley as
described in Section 8.
12 Slacken and remove the three retaining
bolts, and withdraw the engine mounting
bracket bolted to the cylinder block (see
illustration).
13 Undo the four retaining bolts and remove
the rear cover upwards and away from the
engine (see illustration).
14 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Refit
and tighten the cover bolls to the specllled
torque.
ZiaXER
6.7 Remove the auxiliary driveb^t
tensioner - Zt8XE engines
19 Undo the retaining boll and remove the
auxiliary drivet>elt tensioner (see Illustration).
20 Undo the four retaining bolts then
manoeuvre the lower cover off the engine.
21 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tightening the cover retaining bolts and auxiliary
drivetjelt tensioner bolt to the specified torc|ue.
Centre c o v e r
22 Remove the upper and lower covers as
described previously.
23 Remove the right-hand engine mounting
as described in Section 18, then undo the
three retaining bolts and remove the mounting
bracket bolted to the cylinder block.
24 Release the two clips securing the centre
cover to the rear cover and manoeuvre the
centre cover ofi the engine.
25 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tightening the engine mounting bracket retaining
bolts to the specified toniiue.
6.12 Engine mountmg bracket-to-cylinder
block retaining bolts - Z18XE engines
6.8 Timing belt lower cover retaining bolt Z18XE engines
Rear c o v e r
26 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
27 Remove the camshaft sprockets,
crankshaft sprcwket, Kming belt tensioner and
idler pulley as described In Section 8.
28 Unclip the wrnng harness from the
6.13 Lift the rear cover away from the
e n g i n e - Z i a X E engines
engines
Upper c o v e r
15 Remove the air cleaner assembly and
intake ducts as described in Chapter 4A.
16 Undo the two retaining bolts then
wiUidraw the upper cover Irom the rear cover
and remove it from the engine compartment
17 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tightening the cover retaining bolts to the specified
torque.
Lower c o v e r
IB Removethecrankshaft pulley as desufpbaU
in Section 5,
6.16 Undo the two retaining boKs
(arrowed) and withdraw the upper cover
from the rear cover - ZISXER engines
6.19 Undo the retaining bolt and remo\
the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner Z18XER engines
7.3 Unbolt the camshaft sensor and posrti
belt - Z1BXE engines
cover, then undo the four retainma bolts and
manoeuvre the rear cover off the engine.
29 Refittina is the reverse of remova).
tightening the cover retainmg bolts to the
specified torque.
7
Timing b e l t removal and refitting
>
Note: The timing belt must be removed and
refitted with the engine cold.
Z18XE
engines
Removal
1 Position No 1 cylinder at TOO on its compression stnDke as described in Section 3.
2 Remove the timing belt lower cover as
described in Section 6.
3 Check that tlie timing marks on the camshaft
sprockets are still correctly aligned and facing
towards each other and the crankshaft
spnscket timing mark is aligned with the mark
on the rear timing belt cover (see Section 3).
Undo the two bolts securing the camshaft
sensor to the cylinder head and position it
clear of the engine (see illustration).
4 Remove the right-hand engine mounting as
described in Section 18,
W0
7.6 Removing the timing belt Z18XE engines
bolt (1) and rotate the
using an Allen key in the arm cut-out (2) Z18XE engines
5 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolt. tensioner pointer is positioned just tjefore the
Usino an Allen key, rotate the tensioner arm left stop, without exerting any excess strain
clockwise to Its stop, to relieve the tension in on the belt. Hold the tensioner in position and
securely tighten its retaining bolt,
the timing belt, hold if in position and securely
tighten the retaining bolt (see illustration).
12 Check the sprocket timing marks are still
6 Slide the timing belt from its sprockets and correctly aligned. If adjustment is necessary,
remove it from the engine (see illustration). release the tensioner again then disengage
H the belt is to be re-used, use white paint or the belt from the sprockets and make any
similar to mark the direction of rotation on the
necessary adjustments,
belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts 13 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley
until the timing belt has been refitted.
bolt, rotate the crankshaft smoothly through
7 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs two complete turns (720°) in the normal
of uneven wear, splitting w oil contamination, direction of rotation to settle the timing tielt in
and renew it if there is the slightest doubt
position.
about its condition. If the engine is undergoing 14 Check that both the camshaft and
an overhaul and is approaching the specified crankshaft sprocket timing marks are con-ectly
interval for belt renewal (see Chapter lA) realigned then slacken the tensioner bolt
renew the belt as a matter of course, again.
regardless of its apparent condition. If signs of
15 If a new timing belt is being fitted,
oil contamination are found, trace the source adjust the tensioner so that Ihe pointer is
of the oil leak and rectify it, then wash down aligned with the cut-out on the backplate
the engine timing belt area and all related (see illustration). Hold the tensioner in the
components to remove all traces of oil.
correct position and tighten its retaining bolt
Refitting
to Ihe specified torque. Rotate the crankshaft
8 On reassembly, thoroughly clean the timing smoothly through another two complete turns
in the nonnal direction of rotation, lo bring the
belt spnxkets and tensioner/idler pulleys.
9 Check that the camshaft and crankshatt sprocket timing marks back into alignment.
sprocket timing marks are still correctly Check that the tensioner pointer is still aligned
with the backplate cut-out.
aligned as described in Section 3.
16 If the original belt is being refitted,
10 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft
and camshaft sprockets and around the idler adjust the tensioner so that the pointer is
positioned 4 mm to the left of the cut-out on
pulleys, ensuring that the belt front run is taut
(16, all slack is on the tensioner side of the the backplate (see illustration 7.15). Hold the
belt), then fit the belt over the coolant pump tensioner in the correct position and tighten its
sprocket and tensioner pulley Do not twist the retaining bolt to the specified torque. Rotate
belt sharply while refitting it. Ensure that the the crankshaft smoothly through another two
belt teeth are correctly seated centrally in the complete turns in the normal direction of
sprockets, and that the timing marks remain rotation, to bring the sprocket timing marks
in alignment. If a used belt is being refitted, back into alignment. Check that the tensioner
ensure that the arrow mart( made on removal pointer is still correctly positioned in relation
points in the normal direction of rotation, as to the backplate cut-out.
before.
17 If the tensioner pointer is not correctly
positioned in relation to the backplate, repeat
11 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolt
to release the tensioner spring. Rotate the procedure in paragraph 15 (new belt) or 16
the tensioner arm anti-clockwise until the (original belt).
18 Once the tensioner pointer and backplate
remain correctly aligned, refit the camshaft
sensor, then refit the timing belt covers as
described in Section 6.
19 Refit the right-hand engine mounting
as described in Section 18, then refit the
crankshaft pulley as described in Section 5.
Z18XE
ZIBXER
Camshaft s p r o c k e t s
8
engines
Removal
20 Position No 1 cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke as described in Section 3.
21 Remove the timing belt lower and centre
covers as described in Section 6.
22 Check that the timing marks on the
camshaft sprockets are still correctly aligned
and facing t o w ^ s each other, and the timing
mark on the crankshaft sprocket is aligned
with the corresponding mark on the oil pump
liousing (Section 3).
23 Using an Allen key inserted in the slot on
the face of the timing belt tensioner, rotate the
tensioner clockwise to relieve the tension in
the liming belt. Insert a small drill bit or similar
into the slot on the inner edge of the tensioner
body to lock the tensioner in the released
position.
24 Slide the timing belt from its sprockets
and remove it from the engine. If the belt Is to
tie re-used, use white paint or similar to mark
the direction of rotation on the belt. Do not
rotate the crankshaft or camshafts until the
timing belt has been refitted.
25 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs
of uneven wear, splitting or oil contamination,
and renew It if there is the slightest doubt
about its condition. If the engine is undergoing
an overhaul and is appnaaching the specified
interval for belt renewal (see Chapter 1A)
renew the belt as a matter of course,
regandless of its apparent condition. If signs of
oil contamination are found, trace the source
of the oil leak and rectify it, then wash down
the engine timing belt area and all related
components to remove all traces of oil.
Refitting
26 On reassembly, thonaughly clean the timing
belt spnxkets and tensloner/idler pulleys.
27 Check that ihe camshaft and crankshaft
sprocket timing marks are still correctly
aligned as described in Section 3.
28 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft
and camshaft sprockets and around the idler
pulley ensuring that the belt front run Is taut
(ie, all slack is on the tensioner side of the
belt), then fit the belt over the tensioner pulley
Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting
it. Ensure that the belt teeth are correctly
seated centrally in the sprockets, and that the
timing marks remain in alignment. If a used
belt is being refitted, ensure that the arrow
mark made on removal points in the normal
direction of rotation, as before.
7.15 Align the pointer (1) with the relevant
mark on the tensioner backplate (2) Z18XE engines
clockwise and automatically tension the timing
belt.
30 Check the sprocket timing mari rviake up a sprocket-holding tool using
two ierTgUis of steei strip (one long, the
other short), and three nuts and bote; one
nut and boit forms the pivot of a forked
tool, witii the remaining two nuts and
bolts at the tips of the iorio' to engage
with the sprocket holes.
hi Hold the camshaft witii an open-ended
spanner on the fiats provided (see
iliustration).
4 Unscrew the retaining bolt and washer
and remove the spnacket from the end of the
camshaft. If the sprocket locating pin Is a
loose fit in the camshaft end, remove it and
store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping.
5 If necessary, remove the remaining sprocket
using the same method. The inlet and exhaust
sprockets are d i f f ^ n t ; the exhaust camshaft
sprocket can be easily identified by the lugs
which activate the camshaft position sensor,
6 Prior to refitting, check the oil seal(s) for
signs of damage or leakage. If necessary,
renew as described in Section 10.
7 Ensure the locating pin Is In position in the
camshaft end.
8 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft end,
aligning its cut-out with the locating pin, and
fit the washer and new retaining bolt (see
Illustration). If both sprockets have been
removed, ensure each sprocket Is fitted to the
conect shaft; the exhaust camshaft spn^cket
can be identified by the lugs on the sprocket
outer face vrtiich trigger the camshaft position
sensor.
8,8 Ensure the camshaft sprocket cut-out
(arrowed) is correctly Migaged with the
locating pin - Z18XE engines
8.13 Relit the crankshaft sprocket wHh
the locating flange and pulley locating lug
outermost - Z18XE engines
6.17 Engage the tensioner backplate
lug with the locating hole in the oil pump
housing - Z18XE engines
.20 Idler pulley retaining b o l t Z18XE engines
9 Retain the sprocket by the method
used on removal, and tighten the sprocket
retaining bolt to the specified Stage 1 torque
setting then angle-tighten the bolt through
the specihed Stage 2 angle, using a socket
and extension bar, and finally through the
specified Stage 3 angle, it is recommended
that an angle-measuring gauge is used
during the final stages of the tightening, to
ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available,
use white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and sprocket prior to
tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated through
the con-ect angle,
16 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt
and remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine.
17 Fit the tensioner to the engine, making
sure that the lug on the backplate is correctly
located in the oil pump housing hole (see
Illustration), Ensure the tensioner is conectly
seated then refit the retaining bolt. Using an
Allen key, rotate the tensioner arm clockwise
to its stop then securely lighten the retaining
bolt.
18 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
Idler pulleys
23 Remove the camshaft cove
in Section 4.
24 Remove the timing belt as descnbed in
Section 7.
25 Insert Vauxhall/Opel special tool KM-6628
into the slots on the end of the camshafts to
lock the camshafts in the TDC position, in
the absence of the special tool, a suitable
alternative can be fabricated from a steei strip
(see Tool Tip and illustration). It may be
necessary to turn the camshafts slightly using
an open-ended spanner on the flats provided,
to allow the tool to fully engage with the slots.
10 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7, then refit the camshaft cover as
described in Section 4.
19 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
20 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt(s)
and remove the idler pulleyls) fnsm the engine
Crankshaft s p r o c k e t
11 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
12 Slide the sprocket off from the end of
the crankshaft, noting which way around it is
fitted.
13 Align the sprocket locating key with the
crankshaft groove then slide the spnscket into
position, making sure its timing mark is facing
outwards (see illustration).
14 Refit the liming belt as described in
Section 7.
Tensioner assembly
15 Remove the timing belt as descnbed in
Section 7,
3.25 Insert the special tool Into the slots
on the end of the camshafts to lock the
camshafts in the TDC position ZISXER engines
21 Refit the idler pulley(s) and tighten the
retaining bolt{s] lo the specified torc|ue.
22 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7.
ZISXER
engines
Camshaft sprockets
Note 1: Vauxhall/Opel special tools KM-6340
and KM-6628 or suitable alternatives will be
required tor this procedure.
Note 2: New sprocket retaining boH(sl and a
new sprocket closure bolt seal will tie required
for refitting.
A camshaft locking tool can be made
from a steel strip approximately 4.5 mm
diick, with two grooves tiled m the strip
to clear the camshaft sensor trigger
26 Unscrew the closure bolt from the relevant
camshaft sprocket (see Illustration). Note
that a new closure boit seal will be required for
refitting.
27 Hold the camshaft using an open-ended
spanner on the flats provided, and unscrew
the camshaft spnjcket retaining bolt. Withdraw
the sprocket from the end of the camshaft.
28 If necessary remove the remaining
sprocket using the same method.
29 Prior to refitting check the oil seal(s) tor
signs of damage or leakage. If necessary,
renew as descnbed in Section 10.
30 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft end
and fit the new retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt
finger-tight only at this stage. If both sprockets
have been removed, ensure each sprocket
is fitted to the correct shaft; the exhaust
camshaft sprocket has the timing belt guide
flange on its inner face and the inlet sprocket
has the guide flange on its outer face.
8.26 Camshaft sprocket closure b
(arrowed) - Z18XER engines
31 Turn the camshaft sprucketis) until the
timing marks are facing towands each other
and aligned, it will now be necessary to
retain the sprockets in the timing position
while the sprocket retaining boit is tightened.
Engage Vauxhall/Opel special tool KM-6340
or a suitable alternative with the teeth on both
sprockets to lock the sprockets together,
32 With the camshafts and sprockets lockec
in the timing position with the special tools,
hold the camshaft using an open-ended
spanner on the flats provided and tighten the
sprocket retaining bolt to the specified Stage 1
torque setting. Now angle-tighten the bolt
through the specified Stage 2 angle, using a
socket and extension bar, and finally through
the specitied Stage 3 angle. It is recommended
that an angle-measuring gauge is used during
the final stages of the tightening, to ensure
accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use white
paint to make alignment marks between the
boK head and sprocl^et prior to tightening; the
marks can then be used to check that the bolt
t»as been rotated through the con-ect angle,
33 Fit a new seal to the camshaft sprocket
closure boit, then refit the closure bolt and
lighten to the specified torque.
34 Remove the special tools, then refit the
tining belt as described in Section 7, and the
camshaft cover as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft s p r o c k e t
35 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7,
36 Slide the sprocket off from the end of
the crankshaft, noting which way around it is
fded.
37 Align the sprocket locating key with the
aankshaft gnx>ve then slide the sprocket into
position, making sure its timing mark is facing
outwanjs.
38 Refit the liming belt as described in
Section 7,
l e n s i o n e r assembly
Note: A new tensioner retaining boit will be
required lor refitting.
as Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
40 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt
atd remove the tensioner assembly from the
wgine.
41 Clean the tensioner retaining bolt threads
m the oil pump housing, ensuring that all
•aces of sealant, oil or grease are removed.
42 Fit the tensioner to the engine, making
u e that the lug on the backplate is con-ectly
located in the oil pump housing hole. On later
•ndels, also ensure that the projecting end of
• l e tensioner spring engages with the slot on
Wte oil pump housing. Ensure the tensio:
conectly seated then refit the new retaining
belt and tighten it to the specified tongue.
43 Refit the timing belt as described in
Serton 7,
I f c r pulley
maha: A new idler pulley retaining bolt will be
tec/jired for refitting.
10 C a m s h a f t oil s e a l s renewal
9.2 Disconnect the winng connector
(arrowed) from the W T oil control valve
44 Remove the timing belt
Section 7,
45 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt and
remove the idler pulley from the engine.
46 Refit the idler pulley and tighten the new
retaining bolt to the specified tongue.
47 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7.
9
W T oil c o n t r o l valves
{Z18XER e n g i n e s } removal and refitting
-s,
RBtnoval
1 Ttie W T oil control valves am fitted to Ihe
camshaft bearing support, adjacent lo the
camshaft sprockets. Two oil control valves are
used, one for each camshaft.
2 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
relevant oil
3 Undo the retaining bolt located below
the valve, and withdraw the valve from the
camshaft bearing support. Be prepared for oil
spillage.
Refitting
4 Lubricate the valve sealing rings with
clean engine oil and insert the valve into the
camshaft bearing support.
5 Relit and tighten the retaining bolt and
reconnect the wiring connector
6 On completion, check and if necessary
top-up the engine oil as described In Weekly
checks.
10.2 Camshaft oil seal removal method
1 Remove the relevant camshaft sprocket as
described in Section 8.
2 Carefully punch or dhii two small holes
opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a selftapping screw into each, and pull on the screws
with pliers to extract the seal (see illustration).
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Press the new seal into position using a
suitable tubular drift (such as a socket) which
bears only on Ihe hard outer edge ot the seal
(see Illustration). Take care not to damage
the seal lips during fitting: note that the seal
lips should face inwards,
5 Retit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section a.
11 Vatve c l e a r a n c e s
(ZISXER engines) checking and adjustment
>
^
Note: Z1BXE engines are equipped with
hydraulic self-adjusting camshaft followers and
valve clearance adjustment is not required.
Checking
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be over
stressed, as they vitally affect the perfomiance
of the engine. The engine must be cold for
the check to be accurate. The clearances are
checked as follows,
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the nght-hand front roadwheel then
remove the wheel arch liner inner cover for
access to the crankshaft pulley
3 Remove the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4.
4 Position No 1 cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke as described in Section 3,
5 With the engine at TDC on compression
for No 1 cylinder, the inlet camshaft lobes for
No 2 cylinder and the exhaust camshaft lobes
11.78 Using feeler blades, measure the
clearance between tlw base ol both No 2
cylinder inlet cam l o b e s . . .
tor No 3 cylinder are pointing upwards and
slightly towards the centre. This indicates that
these ualves are completely closed, and the
ciearances can be checleen relieved, the bolts can be
fully unscrewed and removed along with the
caps: the iDearing caps and the cylinder head
locations are numbered (inlet camshaft 1 to 5.
exhaust camshaft 6 to 10) to ensure the caps
are correctly positioned on refitting (see
illustrations). Take care not to lose the
iocating dowels (where fitted).
Caution: It (he bearing cap bolts are
carelessly slackened, ttie bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assembly
must be renewed; the bearing caps are
matched to the head and are not available
5 Lift the camshaft out of the cylinder head
and slide oft the oil seal.
6 Repeat the operations described in
paragraphs 4 and 5 and remove the exhaust
camshaft.
7 Obtain sixteen small, clean plastic
containers, and label them for identification.
Alternatively, divide a larger container into
compartments. Using a mbber sucker tool, lift
the followers out from the top of the cylinder
head and store each one in its respective
fitted position (see Illustration). Note: Store
all the lollowers the correct way up. with the
oil groove at the bottom, to prevent the oil
draining from the hydraulic valve adjustment
mechanisms.
Inspection
8 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine the condition
of the bearing surfaces both on the camshaft
journals and in the cylinder head. It the head
bearing surfaces are worn excessively, the
cylinder head will need to be renewed.
9 Examine the follower beanng surfaces
which contact the camshaft lobes for wear
ridges and scoring. Check the followers and
their bores in the cylinder head for signs of
12.14 Apply a smear of sealant to the
12.7 Remove the followers from the
cylinder head, and store with the oil groove
(arrowed) at the bottom - Z18XE engines
wear or damage, if any follower is thought
to be faulty or is visibly worn it should be
renewed.
Befitting
10 Commence refitting by turning the
crankshaft anti-clockwise by 60". This will
position Nos 1 and 4 pistons a thinJ of the way
down the bore, and prevent any chance of
the valves touching the piston crowns as the
camshafts are being fitted. This could happen
if any ot the cam followers have excessive
011 in them before the pressure of the valve
springs forces it out.
11 Where removed, lubricate the followers
with clean engine oil and carefully insert each
one into its original location in the cylinder
head.
12 Lubncate the camshaft followers with
molybdenum disuiphide paste (or clean engine
oil) then lay the camshafts in position.
13 Ensure the mating surfaces of the bearing
caps and cylinder head are clean and dry and
lubricate the camshaft journals and lobes with
clean engine oil.
14 Apply a smear of sealant to the mating
surfaces of both the inlet (No 1) and exhaust
(No 6) camshaft right-hand bearing caps (see
illustration).
15 Ensure t^e locating dowels (where fitted)
are in position then refit the camshaft bearing
caps and the retaining bolts in their original
locations on the cylinder head. The caps are
numbered (inlet camshaft 1 to 5, exhaust
camshaft 6 to 10] from the timing belt end,
and the corresponding numbers are marked
on the cylinder head upper surface. All bearing
cap numbers should be the right way up when
viewed from the front of the engine.
16 Worie cleaned easily in solvent or renewed.
13.32a Cyltnder head bolt tightening sequence
30 Carefully rem the cylinder head, locating it
on the dowels.
31 Fit the washers to the new cylinder head
tjolts then carefully inseH them into position
(do not drop), tightening them finger-tight
only at this stage.
32 Working progressively and In the
sequence shown, first tighten all the cylinder
head bolts to the Stage 1 tongue setting (see
illustrations).
33 Once all bolts have been tightened to the
Stage 1 trnque, again working In the sequence
shown, tighten each bolt through its specified
Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension
bar. It is recommended that an angle-measuring
gauge is used during this stage of the tightening,
to ensure accuracy (see lllustratton).
34 Working in the specified sequence, go
arciund again and tighten all bolts through the
specified Stage 3 angle.
35 Working again in the specified sequence,
go around and tighten all bolts through the
specified Stage 4 angle.
36 Finally go around in the specified
sequence again and tighten all bolts through
the specified Stage 5 angle.
37 Refit the exhaust manifold as described in
Chapter 4A.
38 Reconnect the heater hoses to the lefthand end of the cylinder head or thermostat
housing and tighten the dips.
39 Refit the upper hose to the radiator and
thermostat housing and tighten the clips.
40 Refit the inlet manifold as described m
Chapter 4A.
41 Where applicable, refit the alternator
upper mounting bracket and tighten the bolts.
42 Reconnect the wiring to the components
listed in paragraph 11. then secure the wiring
with cable-ties.
43 Refer to Chapter 4A and refit the exhaust
front pipe to the exhaust manifold. Refit the
mounting robbers.
44 Refit the rear timing belt cover with
reference to Section 6.
45 Refit the camshaft sprockets, timing belt
tensioner, and the timing belt idler pulleys,
with reference to Section 8,
46 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
47 Refit the spark plugs as described in
Chapter 1 A.
48 Refit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4.
49 Refit the wheel arch linw inner cover and
front roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
50 Reconnect the battery negative tenninal.
51 Check that all relevant hoses, pipes and
wires, etc, have been reconnected. Check the
security of the fuel hose connections.
52 Refill and bleed the cooling system with
reference lo Chapter 1 A.
53 When the engine is started, check for
signs of oil or coolant leakage,
Refitting
. . . and then through the various
specified angles as described in the text
11 Thoroughly clean the sump, baffle plate
and pick-up/strainer, then remove all traces of
sealer and oil from the mating surfaces of the
sump and cylinder bloci; and (where removed)
the pick-up/strainer Also remove all traces
of locking compound from the pick-up botts
(where removed).
14.12 Rt new seal/gasket to the oil pump
pick-up pipe - Z18XE engines
12 On Z18XE engines, wtiere necessary,
position a new gasket/seal on top of the oil
pump pick-up/stralner and fit the strainer (see
illustration). Apply locking compound to the
threads of the retaining bolts then fit the bolts
and tighten to the specified tonque.
13 On ZISXER engines, where necessary,
position a new gasket/seal on the oil pump
pick-up/strainer flange and fit the strainer.
Refit the flange and base retaining bolts and
tighten to the specified tonque.
14 Ensure the sump and cylinder block
mating surfaces are clean and dry and remove
all traces of locking compound from the sump
bolts.
15 Apply a smear of suitable sealant (available
from Vauxhall/Opel dealers) to the areas of
the cylinder block mating surface around the
areas of the of the oil pump housing and main
tearing cap joints (see Illustration).
16 Apply a bead of suitable sealant (available
from Vauxhall/Opel dealers) approximately
2.5 mm thick to Ihe sealing surface of the
sump. Around the No 5 main bearing cap
area, increase the thickness of the bead to
3.5 mm (see lllustratlon).
17 Offer up the sump, and loosely refit all the
retaining bolts. Working out from the centre in
a diagonal sequence, progressively tighten the
tjoHs securing the sump to the cylinder block/
oil pump to their specified torque setting.
18 Tighten the bolts securing the sump flange
to the transmission housing to their specified
15.9 Removal of the pump outer rotor
- o u t e r face identification punch mark
arrowed - Z1SXE engines
14.15 Apply sealant to the oil pump and
main bearing cap joints (arrowed) before
the sump is refitted
tonque settings. Where fitted, refit the rubber
plugs to the sump flange cut-outs.
19 Refit the exh
and reconnect the oil level sensor wiring
connector.
20 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover and
front roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to
the ground. Fill the engine with fresh oil, with
reference to Chapter 1A.
15 Oil p u m p removal, overhaul and refitting
^
5t
Z18XE
engines
Note: TTie pressure relief valve can be removed
with pump in position on the engine unit,
although on some models it will be necessary
to unbolt the mounting bracket assembly from
the block to allow the valve to be removed.
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7,
2 Remove the rear timing belt cover as
described in Section 6.
3 Remove the sump and oil pump pick-up/
strainer as described in Section 14.
4 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
oil pressure switch.
5 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts then
slide the oil pump houang assembly off of the
15.10 Oil pressure relief valve components
-Z18XE engines
1 Plunger
3 Sealing washer
14.16 Apply a 2.5mm thick bead of sealant
to the sump sealing surface - increase the
thickness to 3.5mm around the No 5 main
bearing cap area
end of the crankshaft, taking great care not to
lose the locating dowds.
6 Remove the housing gasket and discarel it.
Overhaul
7 Undo the retaining screws and lift off the
pump cover from the rear of the housing.
8 Check the inner and outer rotors for
Identification dots indicating which way round
they aro fitted. If no marks are visible, use a
suitable m ^ e r pen to mark the surface of
both the pump inner and outer rotors.
9 Lift out the inner and outer rotors from the
pump housing (see Illustration).
10 Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve bolt
from the front of the housing and withdraw
the spring and plunger from the housing,
noting which way around the plunger is fitted.
Remove the sealing washer from the valve
bolt (see illustration).
11 Clean the components, and carefully
examine the rotors, pump body and relief
valve plunger for any signs of scoring or wear.
Renew any component which shows signs of
wear or damage; If the rotore or pump housing
are mari*:ed then the complete pump assembly
should tie renewed.
12 If the components appear serviceable,
measure the rotor endfloat using feeler blades,
and check the flatness of the end cover
(see illustration). If the clearances exceed
15.12 Using a straight-edge and feeler
blade to measure rotor endfloat Z18XE engines
ZO Refit tiie oil pump pick-up/strainer and
sump as described in Section 14.
21 Refit the rear timing bell cover to the
engine, tightening its retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
22 Refit the timing belt sprocltels, idler
puileys and tensioner then refit the belt as
described tn Sections 8 and 7.
23 On completion, fit a new oil filter and
fill the engine with clean oil as described in
Chapter 1A.
ZiaXER
15.14 Rtting a new crankshaft oil seal to
the oil pump housing - Z18XE engines
13 If the pump is satisfactory, reassemble the
components in the reverse order of removal,
noting the foiiowing.
a) Ensure both rotors are fitted the correct
way around.
b) Fit a new sealing ring to the pressure
relief valve bolt and tighten Ihe bolt to the
specified torque.
c) Apply a little locking compound to the
threads, and tighten the pump cover
screws to the specified torque.
d) On completion prime the oil pump by
filling it with clean engine oil whilst
rotating the inner rotor.
RefttUng
14 Prior to refitting, carefully lever out
the crankshaft oil seal usmg a flat-biaded
screwdriver. Fit the new oil seal, ensuring
its sealing lip is facing inwards, and press
15.17 Take care not to damage the oil seal
on the crankshaft lip (1) and engage ttie
Inner rotor with the crankshaft flats (2) Z18XE engines
it squarely into the housing using a tubular
drift which bears only on the hard outer
edge of the seal {see illustration). Press the
into position so that It is flush with the
housing.
15 Ensure the mating surfaces ot the oil pump
and cylinder block are clean and dry and the
locating dowels are in position.
16 Fit a new gasket to the cylinder block.
17 Carefully manoeuvre the oil pump into
position and engage the inner rotor with the
crankshaft end (see illustration). Locate the
pump on the dowels, taking great care not
damage the oil seal lip.
18 Refit the pump housing retaining bolts in
their original locations and tighten them to the
specified torque.
19 Reconnect the oil pressure sensor wmng
connector.
engines
Removal
24 Drain the Mling s]
Chapter lA.
25 Remove the alternator as descnbed in
Chapter 5A.
26 Remove the exhaust manifold as
described in Chapter 4A.
27 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
28 Remove the timing belt tensioner and
idler pulley, and the crankshaft spnacket as
described in Section 8,
29 Remove the sump as described In Section 14.
30 Release the clamp and disconnect the
coolant hose fnam the coolant pump.
31 Undo the two bolts securing the upper
metal coolant pipe to the rear of the coolant
pump.
32 Undo the support bracket bolt securing
the lower metal coolant pipe to the oil filter
housing.
33 Slacken and remove the eight retaining
bolts (noting their different lengths) then slide
the oil pump housing assembly off of the end
ot the crankshaft, taking great care not to lose
the locating dowels. Remove the housing
gasket and discand it.
34 Remove the metal coolant pipes and
15.35 Remove the secunng screws and
withdraw the oil pump cover from the rear
of the housing - ZIBXER engines
15.37a Unscrew the oil pressure relief
valve cap . . .
15.37b . . . then withdraw the spring . . .
15.37c , . . and the plunger ZieXER engines
Overhaul
35 Remove the securing screws/bolts and
withdraw the oil pump covet Irom the rear of
the oil pump housing (see Illustration).
36 Remove the inner and outer rotor from the
pump housing, noting which way round they
are fitted, and wipe them clean. Also clean the
rotor location in the oil pump housing.
37 The oil pressure relief valve components
can also be removed from the oil pump
housing by unscrewing the cap. Withdraw the
cap. spring and plunger (see Illustrations).
38 Locate the inner and outer rotor back in
the oil pump housing, ensuring they are fitted
the right way round as noted during removal.
39 Check the clearance between the end
faces of the rotors and the housing (endfloat)
using a straight-edge and a feeler gauge (see
illustration).
40 If the clearance is outside the specified
limits, renew the components as necessary.
41 Examine the pressure relief valve spring
and plunger, and renew if any sign of damage
or wear is evident.
42 Ensure Itiat the rotor location in the interior
of the oil pump housing is scrupulously clean
before commencing reassembly
43 Thoroughly clean the pressure relief valve
components, and lubricate them with clean
engine oil before refitting. Insert the plunger
and spring, then refit the cap and tighten to
the specified torque.
44 Ensure thai the rotors are clean, then
lubricate them with clean engine oil. and reft
them to the pump body ensuring they are fitted
the right way round as noted during removal.
45 Wipe clean the mating faces of the rear
cover and the pump housing, then retii tne rear
cover. Befit and tighten the securing screws
securely. Prime the oil pump by filing it with
clean engine oil whilst rotating the inner rotor
Refitting
15.39 Check the oil pump rotor endfloat
using a straight-edge and feeler gauge ZISXER engines
16.2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by
locking tne ring gear teeth with a suitable
tool
16.8a Tighten the flywheel bolts to the
specified torque using a torque wrench . . .
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear leeth with a similar arrangement
to that shown (see illustration). Aifernatrvely,
bolt a strap between the flywheel and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Make alignment
marks between the flywheel and crankshaft
using paint or a suitable marker pen.
3 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as if is
very heavy.
16.8b . . . then through the specified angle
using an angle tightening gauge
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
(see Illustrations). If a gauge is not available,
use white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and flywheel prior to
tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated through
the con-ect angle.
9 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6
then rmiove the locking tod, and refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7A, or 7C.
46 Prior to refitting, carefully lever out
Ihe crankshaft oil seal using a flat-bladed
screwdriver. Fit the new oil seal, ensuring
its sealing lip is facing inwards, and press it
squarely into the housing using a tubular drift
which bears only on the hard outer edge of
the seal. Press the seal into position so that it
is flush with the housing.
47 Refit the two previously-removed metal
coolant pipes.
48 Ensure the mating surfaces of the oil pump
housing and cylinder block are clean and dry
and the locating dowels are in position.
49 Fit a new gasket to the cylinder block.
50 Carefully manoeuvre the oil pump into
posif on and engage the inner rotor with the
crankshaft end. Engage the coolant pipes,
then locate the pump on the dowels, taking
great care not damage the oil seal lip.
51 Rem the pump housing retaining bolts in
Iheir original locations and tighten them to the
specified torque.
52 Retit the metal coolant pipe retaining bolts
and tighten securely,
53 Reconnect the coolant hose to the pump
and secure with the retaining clip.
54 Refit the sump as described in Section 14,
55 Refit the timing belt tensioner and idler
pulley and the crankshaft sprocket, then refit the
timing belt as described in Sections 8 and 7.
56 Refit the exhaust manifold as described in
Chapter 4A.
57 Refit the alternator as described in
Chapter 5A.
58 On completion, refer to Chapter 1A and fit
a new oil filter and fill the engine with clean oil,
then refill the cooling system.
16 F l y w h e e l removal, inspection
,.. and refitting
^
^
Note: New flywheel retaining bolts will be
required on refitting.
Removal
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A or 7C as applicable, then remove
the clutch assembly as described in Cttapter 6.
Inspection
4 Examine the flywheel for scoring of the
clutch face, if the clutch face is scored, the
flywheel may be suri'ace-ground, but renewal
is preferable. Also check for wear or chipping
of the ring gear teeth,
5 It there is any doubt about the condition of
the flywheel, seek the advice ot a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or engine reconditioning specialist.
They will be able to advise if it is possible to
recondition it or whether renewal is necessary.
17 C r a n k s h a f t oil seals -
Right-hand
(timing
belt
4j
end)
1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket as
described in Section 8.
2 Carefully punch or drill two small holes
opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a
Refitting
6 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft.
7 Offer up the flywheel and fit the new
retaining bolts. If the original is being refitted
align the marks made prior to removal,
S Lock the flywheel by the method used on
removal, and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified Stage 1 torque setting then
angle-tighten the bolts through the specified
Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension
bar, and finally through the specifed Stage 3
angle. It is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
17.2 Removing the crankshaft oil seal
self-tapping screw into each and pull on the
screws with pliers to extract the seal (see
illustration).
Caution: Great care must be taken to avoid
damage to itia oil pump.
3 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Ease the new seal into position on the end
of the crankshaft. Press the seal squarely
into position until it is flush with the housing.
If necessary, a suitable tubular drift, such
as a socket, which bears only on the hard
outer edge of the seal can be used to lap
the seal into position (see illustration).
Take great care not to damage the seal lips
during fitting and ensure that the seal lips
face inwards.
6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 8.
Left-hand
(flywheel
end)
6 Remove the flywheel as described in Section 16.
7 Renew the seal as described in paragraphs 2
to 4 (see illustration).
8 Refit the flyv;heei as descnbed in Section 16.
? 18 E n g i n e / t r a n s m i s s i o n
mountings inspection and renewal
•i^^
^
^
Inspection
1 If improved access is required, firmly apply
the handbrake, then jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vetiide support).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check Biat all the mounting's fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible.
17.4 Fitting a new crankshaft Oil seal
4 Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar, check
for wear in the mounting by ca^efully levering
against it to check for free play; where this
Is not possible, enlist the ^ d of an assistant
to move the engine/transmission unit backand-forth, or from side-to-side, while you
watch the mounting. While some free play is
to be expected even from new components,
excessive wear should be obvious. If
excessive free play is found, check first that
the fasteners are correctly secured, then
renew any worn components as described
below.
Renewal
Note: Before slackening any of the engine
mounting boits/nuts, the relative positions of
the mountings to their various brackets shouid
be marked to ensure correct alignment upon
refitting.
Front m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
5 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
mounting to the s u b t r e e bracket. Withdraw
the through-bolt (see Illustration).
7 Undo the bolts securing the mounting
bracket to the transmission, then manoeuvre
the mounting and bracket out of position.
17.7 Left-hand crankshaft Oil s e a l transmission and flywheel removed
8 Check all components for signs of wear or
damage, and renew as necessary.
9 Locate the mounting in the subframe, refit
the through-bolt and nut, then tighten the nut
finger-tight at this stage.
10 Refitthemountingbrackettothefransmissbn
and tighten its bolts to the ^ieclfied torciue.
11 Tighten the through-bolt nut to the
specified tonque.
12 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Rear m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
13 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacl^ng and vehicle support).
14 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission and
the through-bolt securing the mounting to the
bracket (see illustration).
15 Undo the nuts and remove the two bolts
securing the mounting to the subframe (see
illustration). Manoeuvre the mounting and
bracket out frcim under the car.
16 Refit the bracket to the transmission and
tighten the bolts to the specified tonque.
17 Locate the new mounting in position.
Insert the bolts and tighten the bolt/nuts to the
specified tonque.
18 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Right-hand mounting
19 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
20 Remove the air cleaner as described In
Chapter 4A.
21 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
tc the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder
head, and support the weight of the engine.
22 Mark the position of the three bolts
jring the mounting bracket to the engine
bracket and undo the bolts. Undo the two
belts and one nut securing the mounting to
the body and remove Ihe mounting assembly
(see Illustrations).
23 Place the mounting assembly in position
and refit the two bolts and the nut securing
the mounting to the body Tighten the bolts/
nut to the specified torque. Align the mounting
in its original position, then tighten the three
mounting bracket bolts to the specified
torque.
24 Remove the hoist, then refit the air cleaner
as described in Chapter 4A.
25 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
18.28 Left-hand mounting bracket-to-transmlsslon bracket retaining bolts (an-owed) ~
diesel model shown, petrcri similar
Left-hand mounting
26 Remove the battery and bai.ierv tiox as
described in Chapter 5A.
27 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder
head, and support the weight of the engine.
28 Using a Tont socket, unscrew the three
bolts securing the mounting bracKi.v to tne
transmission bracket (see illustration).
29 Undo the four bolts securing the mounting
18.29 Left-hand
g-to-body
retaining bolts (arrowed) - shown with
engine/transmission removed
to the body and the three bolts securing the
Transmission bracket to the transmission (see
illustration). Remove the mounting assembly
I the c.
30 Locate the mounting brackets in position
rtien insert the bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
31 Disconnect the hoist and lifting tackle.
32 Refit the battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A.
Chapter 2 Part B:
2,2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Section n Tiber
Balance shaft - removal and refitting
Camshaft and followers - removal, Inspection and refitting
Camshaft cover - removai and refitting
Compression test - genera infonnation
Cranlolts
Timing cliain cover bolts
Timing cliain guide rail bolt access plug
Timing ctiain guide rail bolts
Timing chain oil spray/injector nozzle
Timing chain sliding rail bott*
Timing chain tensioner:
Balance shafts
Camshaft
Timing chain tensioner rail pivot bolt..
• Use n. -
1
General i n f o r m a t i o n
This Part ot Chapter 2 describes the
repair procedures which can reasonably be
carried out on the engine while it remains in
the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle and is being dismantled as
described in Chapter 2E, any preliminary
dismantling procedures can be ignored.
Note that, while it may be possible
physically to overhaul items such as the
piston/connecting rod assemblies while the
engine is in the vehicle, such tasks are not
usually carried out as separate operations,
and usually require the execution of several
additional procedures (not to mention the
cleaning of components and of oilways); for
this reason, all such tasks are classed as
major overhaul procedures, and are described
in Chapter 2E.
Chapter 2E describes the removal of the
engine/transmission unit from the vehicle, and
the full overhaul procedures which can then
be canied out.
Engine
description
The engine is of the sixteen-valve, in-line
four-cylinder, double overhead camshaft
{DOHC) type, mounted transversely at the
ftont of the car with the transmission attached
to its left-hand end.
The aluminium alloy cylinder block is of the
dry-liner type. The crankshaft is supported
within the cylinder block on five shell-type
main bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to
number 2 main bearing, to contrai crankshaft
endfloat.
Tne connecting rods rotate on horizontallysplit bearing shells at their big-ends. The
pistons are attached to the connecting rods by
gudgeon pins, which are retained by circlips.
The aluminium-alloy pistons are fitted with
three piston rings - two compression rings
and scraper-type oil control ring.
The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs, and operate in guides
pressed into the cylinder head.
The camshafts are driven by the crankshaft
via a timing chain aniingement; there is also a
lower timing chain which links the crankshaft
to the balance shafts and coolant pump. The
camshafts rotate directly in the head and
operate the sixteen valves via followers and
hydraulic tappets. The followers are situated
directly below the camshafts, each one
^Derating a separate valve. Wive cleararx^ are
automatically adjusted by the hydraulic tappets.
Lubrication is by means of an oil pump,
which is driven off the right-hand end of the
crankshaft. \t draws oil from the sump, and
then forces it thraugh an externally-mounted
filter into galleries In the cylinder block/
crankcase. From there, the oil is distributed to
the crankshaft (main bearings) and camstiafts.
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via
Internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the
camshaft bearings also receive a pressurised
supply. The camshaft lobes and valves are
lubricated by splash, as are all other engine
ccmiponents. The timing chain is lubncated by
an oil spray nozzle.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed: crankcase fumes are drawn from
camshaft cover, and passed via a hose to tiie
inlet manifold.
O p e r a t i o n s with
engine
in
cor
The following operations can be canied out
without having to remove the engine from the
car.
a) Compression presare - testing.
b) Camshaft cover - removal and refitting.
0) Timing djain cover- removal and
refitting.
d) Timing chains - removai and refitting.
e) Timing chajn tensioners, guides and
spracfteis - removal and refitting.
f) Cam^ñ and followers - removal,
inspection and refitting.
g) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
h) Connecting rods and pistoris - removal
and refitting.*
1) Sump ~ removal and refitting.
j) Oil pump - removal, overtiaul and
refitting,
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
I) Engine/transmission mountingsinspection and renewal
m) Flywheei/drivepiate - removal, inspection
and refitting.
'AKiough ttie operation marked with an asterisk
can be canied out witii m engine in the car (after
removal of the sump). It Is better for the engine
to jbe removed, in the Interests of cleanliness and
improved access. For this reason, the procedure
isdesaibedinChapter2E.
2
''M
OomfMessiontest~
ii information
^
S
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 2.
3
Valve t i m i n g checking and adjustment
Note: To check the valve timing, it will be
necessary to use a Vauxhall/Opei special looi
(or suitable equivalent): the camshaft locking
tool number is KM-6148. If access to (his tool
cannot be gained, this task must be entnjsted
to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer. The camshaft
locking tool has locating pins tiiat locate in the
holes in the camshaft sprockets, to ensure that
the camshafts remain con-ectly positioned.
1 The valve timing is checked and, If
necessary adjusted, with No 4 piston at top
dead centre (TDC) on its compresston stroke.
No 4 piston and cylinder are at the flywheel/
driveplate end of the engine,
2 Remove the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4.
3 Apply the handbrake, tiien jack up the frant
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
nght-hand front roadwheel and the wheel arch
liner inner cover for access to the crankshaft
pulley.
3.4 Crankshaft pulley and timing chain
cover timing marks (1)
3.6a Vauxhall/Opd camshaft locking tool
(KM-6148)
3.6b Locking the camshaft sprockets In
position using the VauxhaiVOpel tool
A Camshaft sprocket locating pins
4 Using a socket and extension bar on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft
clockwise (when viewed from the right-hand
side of the car) until the notch on the
crankshaft pulley rim is aligned with the pointer
on the timing chain cover (see illustration].
The engine is now positioned with No 1 and 4
pistons at TDC.
5 To determine which piston Is on its
compression stroke, check the position of
the camshaft lobes. When Mo 4 piston is at
TDC on its compression stroke. No 4 cylinder
camshaft lobes will be pointing upwards.
If No 4 cylinder camshaft lobes are pointing
downwards, rotate the crankshaft through
a further complete turn (360°) to bring No 4
cylinder to TDC on its compression stroke.
6 With the notch on the crankshaft pulley
rim aligned with the pointer on the timing
chain cover, insert the camshaft locking tool
into position on the camshaft sprockets (see
Illustrations).
7 If the locking tool can be conectly fitted the
valve timing is correctly set and no adjustment
8 Refit the camshaft cover as described In
Section 4, then rofit the vtrheei arch liner inner
cover and roadwheel, and lower the vehtele to
the ground.
9 If the camshaft tool cannot be inserted
correctly into the camshaft sprockets, the
timing will need to be reset. Refer to Section 8
for the rwnoval, inspection and refitting of the
timing chain and sprockets.
4
C a m s h a f t cover removal and refitting
1 Unclip and remove the plastic cover from
the top of the engine (see illustration).
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
3 Remove the ignition module as described In
Chapter 5B.
4 Disconnect the breather hose from the front
of the camshaft cover (see illustration).
5 Unscrew the nut securing the coolant
pipe to the stud at the left-hand end of the
camshaft cover.
6 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve and the
oxygen sensors.
7 Undo the two retaining bolts and release the
wiring bracket from the left-hand side of the •
camshaft cover. With the bracket removed, undo
the right-hand stud to release the earth strap.
8 Undo the two retaining bolts from the timing
chain end of the camshaft cover to release the
hoses and pipe supports.
9 Free the wiring harness from its clips/
brackets at the front and side of the camshaft
cover as necessary.
10 Slacken and remove the camshaft cover
retaining bolts along with their sealing washers
(where fitted) then lift the camshaft cover and
gasket/seals away from the cylinder head.
Renew the cover gasket/seals and retaining
bolt sealing washers, as applicable.
Reming
4.1 Remove the plastic cover from the top
otUie engine
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal noting
the following points:
a; Use new camshaft cover ga^et/seals.
b) Once the cover is in position, first tighten
all the bolts hand-tight, then go around
and tighten them all to the specitied
torque setting.
c) Refit the ignition module as described in
Chapter SB.
d) Refit the air cleaner and intake duct as
7 Chapter 4A.
5
Crankshaft pulley/
vibration d a m p e r removal nm romrind
^
^
Note 1: Vauxhall/Opel special tools KM-9m-1
and KfiA-J-38122 or suitable alternative will be
required to prevent crankshaft rotation whilst
the retaining bolt is slackened/tightened.
Note 2: A new pulley retaining bolt will be
required on refitting.
Removal
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frorrt
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
right-hand front roadwheel and the wheel an:^
liner Inner cover for access to the crankshaft
pulley
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A. Prior to removal, mark the
direction of rotation on the belt to ensure the
belt is refitted the same way around,
3 Slacken the crankshaft pulley retaining
bolt. To prevent crankshaft rotation whilst
the retaining bolt is slackened, it will be
necessary to hold the crankshaft pulley with
the Vauxhall/Opel tool or a suitable alternative
(see illustration 5.6).
4 Unscrew the retaining trolt and washer and
remove the crankshaft pulley from the end of
the crankshaft. Whilst the pulley is removed
check the oil seal for signs of wear or damage
and, if necessary, renew as described in
Section 14.
5.5a Turn the pulley until the flat
centre hub locates with the oil pump
drive...
Refitting
5 Carefully locate the crankshaft pulley on the
crankshaft end. Align the flats on the pulley
with the oil pump, then turn the pulley to
align the slot in the pulley with the crankshaft
key. Slide the pulley fully into position, taking
great care not to damage the oil seal, then
fit the washer and new retaining bolt (see
6 Lock the crankshaft by the method used on
removal, and tighten the pulley retaining bolt
to the specified Stage 1 torque setting then
angle-tighten the bolt through the specified
Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension
bar, and finally through the specitied Stage 3
angle. It Is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
(see Illustration). If a gauge is not available,
use white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and pulley prior to
tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated through
the correct angle.
7 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A using the mark made prior to
removal to ensure the belt is fitted the conect
way around.
8 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover and
roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
6
T i m i n g chain c o v e r removal and refitting
. . then fit a new securing bolt to the
pulley
,g gauge
to lighten the crankshaft pulley whilst
preventing pulley rotation with a suitable tool
6 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1A. Vi/hen the oil has completely drained,
refit the drain plug with new sealing washer,
and tighten to the specified torque.
7 Remove the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 5.
8 Undo the three nuts securing the exhaust
system front pipe to the catalytic converter,
taking care to support the flexible section.
Note: Angular movement in excess of 10°
can cause permanent damage to the flexible
section. Separate the flange joint and recover
the gasket.
9 Undo the through-bolt securing the rear
engine mounting/torque link to the mounting
bracket, and the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission (see
illustration). Remove the mounting bracket
from under the car.
10 Unscrew the nut and
through-bolt securing the front engine
mounting/tonque link to the subframe (see
Illustration).
11 Connect a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the right-hand end of the engine and support
its weight. If available, the type of support bar
which locates in the engine compartment side
channels is to be prefened.
12 Mark the bolt positions for correct
refitting, then undo the three bolts securing
the right-hand engine mounting to the
engine bracket, and the two bolts and one
nut securing the mounting to the body (see
illustrations). Remove the mounting.
13 Using the hoist, carefully raise the
right-hand end of the engine until the bolts
securing the engine mounting bracket to the
cylinder head are accessible. Undo the three
bolts and remove the engine bracket.
14 Reposition the hoist as necessary, then
^
•
Removal
1 Unclip and remove the plastic cover from
the top of the engine (see Illustration 4.1).
2 Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
4 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axie stands
(see Jacliing and vefiicle supped).
5 Remove the right-hand front roadwheel and
ttie wheel aroh liner inner cover.
:o the engine bracket . , .
undo the drivebelt tensioner central mounting
boit. Remove the tensioner assembly fram the
engine {see illustration).
15 Noting each bolt's correct fitted location
(one bolt is also securing the coolant pump),
slacken and remove all the bolts securing the
timing chain cover to the cylinder block (sea
illustration). It may be necessary to raise or
lower the engine using the hoist to enable all
the bolts to be removed.
16 Carefully ease the timing cover squarely
away from the cylinder block and manoeuvre
it out of position, noting the correct fitted
positions of its locating dowels. If the locating
dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store
with the cover for safe-keeping.
17 Remove the gasket and ensure the mating
surfaces are clean. Obtain a new gasket for
refitting,
Remting
IB Prior to refitting the cover, it is
recommended that the crankshaft oil seal
should be renewed. Carefully lever the old
seal out of the cover using a large flat-bladed
screwdriver Fit the new seal to the cover,
making sure its sealing lip is facing inwanls.
Press/tap the seal into position until it is
flush with the cover, using a suitable tubular
drift, such as a socket, which bears only
on the hard outer edge of the seal (see
Illustrations).
19 Ensure the mating surfaces of the cover
and cylinder block are clean and dry and the
locating dowels are in position.
20 Manoeuvre the new gasket into position
and tocate H on the dowels.
6.18b . . . then using a suitable drift tap in
the new oil seal
21 Manoeuvre the timing cover into position,
locating it on the dowels. Refit the cover
retaining bolts, ensuring each one is fitted in
its original location, and tighten them evenly
and progressively to the specified torque.
22 Place the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner
assembly in position ensuring that the locating
peg on the tensioner mounting surface
engages con-ectly with the corresponding hole
in the timing chain cover. Tighten the tensioner
central mounting bolt to the specified torque.
23 Refit the engine mounting bracket lo the
cylinder head and tighten the three retaining
bolts to Ihe specified tonque.
24 Locate the right-hand engine mounting
in position, then refit the three bolts securing
the mounting to the engine bracket and the
two twits and one nut securing the mounting
to the body Align the mounting in its original
Dosition. then tinhten the bolts and nut to the
specified tonque.
7.4 Removing the tinrtng chain tensioner
assembly
25 Remove the hoist and lifting tackle from
the engine.
26 Refit the through-bolt and nut securing
the front engine mounting/torque link to the
subframe. Tighten the nut to the specified
torque.
27 Place the rear engine mounting/toreiue link
mounting bracket in position and refit the three
bolls securing the bracket to the transmission.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque,
28 Refit the rear engine mounting/torque
link through-bolt and tighten the bolt to the
specified tonque.
29 Using a new gasket, retit the exhaust front
pipe flange joint to the catalytic converter and
tighten the three retaining nuts to the specified
tonque.
30 Refit the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 5.
31 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
32 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover
and roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
33 Refer to Chapter 4A if necessary and refit
the air cleaner assembly and air intake duct.
34 Refill the engine with oil as described in
Chapter 1A.
35 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal and refit the engine cover.
Start the engine and check lor signs of oil
leaks.
7
Timing chain tensioners -
^
remova! and refitting
^
Camshaft
chain
tensioner
Note: It a new camshaft liming chain tensioner
is being fitted, then a new tension rail
should be fitted at the same time- Under no
circumstances should the old tension rail be
Utted with a new tensioner
Removal
1 Remove the camshaft cover as described In
Section A.
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the nght-hand front roadwheel and the wheel
arch liner inner cover.
3 Refer to the information contained in Section 3. and set No 4 piston at approKimately
10" BTDG on its compression stroke.
4 IJnscrew the camshaft timing chain
tensioner fram the rear of the cylinder head,
and remove the inner piston assembly (see
illustration) Remove the sealing rings and
discard them, new ones should be used on
refitting.
Caution: Do not rotate the engine whilst
the tensioner is removed.
5 Dismantle the tensioner, and inspect the
tensioner piston tor signs of we;
and renew if necessary (see illustration).
7.5 Inner piston removed to check for
wear or damage
7.6a Turn the inner piston screw ciocKwisi
until It locks In p o s i t i o n . . .
Refitting
6 Pretension the timing chain tensioner,
by turning the inner piston clockwise (see
illustrations) and allow it to lock in position.
LulJtlcate the inner piston, then reassemble
the timing chain tensioner.
7 Fit the sealing rings, then lubricate the
timing chain tensioner/piston with clean engine
oil and insert it into the cylinder head. Note:
Check the threads are clean on the tensioner
and in the cyiinder head before refitting.
a Tighten the tensioner to the specified
9 Release the tensioner, by pressing on the
tension rail/timing chain with a rounded bar
(see illustration). This will press against the
inner piston of the tensioner to unlock It, when
it releases, the spring-loaded piston will take
up the slack in the timing chain.
Caution: This procedure must be canied
out correctly, otherwise the chain may be
left slack and skip a tooth on the sprockets.
This will result in engine damage,
10 Rotate Ihe crankshatt through two
complete rotations (720") in ihe correct
direction of rotation and recheck the valve
timing as described In Section 3.
11 Refit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4.
12 Refit the wheel arch liner inner cover
and roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Balance
s/iaft chain
tensioner
Removal
13 Remove the timing chain cover as
described In Section 6.
14 Undo the two retaining bolts and
the balance shaft ch;
cylinder block.
Caution: Do not rotate the
the tensioner is removed.
15 Inspect the tensioner
wear or damage and renev
Refitting
16 Pretension the balance shaft oham
tensioner, by turning the piston clockwise
approximately 45° and push it back into the
tensioner housing. Insert a 1,0 mm locking pin
or drill bit into ttie hole in the piston housing.
7.9 Press the bar against the tension
which will lock the piston In position (see
Illustration).
17 Lubricate the tensioner piston with clean
engine oil, then relit it onto the cylinder block
tightening the bolts to there specified tonque.
18 Once the tensioner is in position, remove
the locking pin to release the tensioner piston
(see Illustration). Make sure the piston
engages' with the tension rail correctly and
7.16 1.0 mm drill bit (arrowed) used to look
the tensioner piston in place
release the tensioner inner piston
takes up any slack in the balancer shaft timing
chain.
Caution: This procedure must be carried
out correctly, otherwise the chain may be
left slack and skip a tooth on the sprockets.
This could result in engine vibration or
s described
7.IS Removmg the locking pin to n
8
B.Ob . . . the co[)[mr-co(oured link
(arrowed) with the diamond timing mark o
the intake s p r o c k e t . . .
Timing chains and sprockets
- removal, inspection
and refitting
^
Note: In order to set the valve timing accurate
at TDC. a Vauxhall/Opel special tool (or
suitable alternative) is required (see Section 3).
If the timing chain and sprockets are to be
completely removed or refitted, then this tas*
can be carried out without ttie tool. The timing
can be re-aligned using the coloured links on
the timing chain and the alignment marks on
the sprockets (see illustrations).
Caution: Prior to removal, ensure the
camshaft sprockets are suitably marked
as they are identical and can be refitted lo
either camshaft.
Removal
8.0c . . . and the second silver-coloured
link (arrowed) with Uie liming mark (vriiKe
dot) on the crankshaft sprocket
Chain
tensioner
and
guide
rails
20 Tensioner and guide rail removal and
refitting is part of the timing chain and:
8.6 Undo the two n
from the chain sliding rail
removal and refitting procedure (see Sectbn 8).
They must be renewed if they show signs of
wear or damage on their chain surfaces.
boHs - hold the camshafts using a
open-ended spanner
C a m s h a f t chain a n d s p r o c k e t s
Note: If there is any wear on the camshaft
timina chain, tension rails, guides and
crankshaft sprocket the components must
always be renewed as a complete assembly.
Note: New camshaft sprocket retaining bote
and new timing chain sliding rail mtaining bote
will be required on refitting.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
F!eference Chapter), then remove the camshaft
cover (see Section 4).
2 Position No 4 piston at TDC on its compression stroke, as described in Section 3.
3 Remove the timing chain cover as described
in Section 6.
4 Remove the camshaft timing chain tensioner
as described in Section 7.
5 Disconnect the wiring plug, then undo
the retaining bolt and remove the camshaft
position sensor from the cylinder head.
6 Undo the two retaining bolts from the
camshaft timing chain sliding rail on the top of
the cylinder head (seo illustration).
7 Remove the access plug from the cylinder
head and undo the upper securing bolt for the
timing chain guide rail (see illustrations),
8 Undo the lower securing bolt for the timing
chain guide rail and remove downwards out
from the engine (see Illustration).
9 Hold the camshafts in turn using an
open-ended spanner on the flats provided,
then slacken and remove the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolts (see illustration).
10 Remove the exhaust camshaft sprocket,
making sure it is marked for refitting as they
are both identical.
11 Undo the lower securino bolt from the
timing chain tension rail, then remove it
downwards and out trom the engine (see
illustration),
12 Lift the timing chain off the crankshaft
sprocket and remove the intake camshaft
sprocket complete with timing chain out
through the top of the cylinder head.
13 Slide the crankshaft drivegear/sprocket
(and spring washer, where fitted) off the
8,11 Undo the retaining bolt and remo s the tension rail from the
engme
Wbodmff ten remove the sprocket from the balance
shaft (see illustration). Use new bolts when
« Slide the crankshaft dhvegear/sprocket
tand spring washer, where fitted) off the
Iftbodrufl key on the crankshaft. Note: FRONT
is marked on the outer face of the gear.
2D Lock the coolant pump drivegear with
a suitable screwdriver, and undo the three
securing tjolts. Remove the drivegear from the
«»iant pump,
8.16 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the tension rail and
guide r«lle
A Tension
sideways movement. If there is an excessive
amount of side play in a timing chain, it must
be renewed.
23 Note that it is a sensible precaution to
renew the timing chains, regardless of their
annarent condition, if the engine has covered
a high mileage, or if it has been noted that the
chain(s) have sounded noisy when the engine
running. It is advised renewing the chains
and sprockets as a matched set, since it is
false economy to run a new chain on worn
sprockets and vice-versa, if there is any doubt
accui tne condition of the timing chains and
sprockets, seek the advice of a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer sen/ice department, who will be able
to advise you as to the best course ot action,
based on their previous knowledge of the
engine.
24 Examine the chain guideis) and tensioner
rail(s) for signs ol wear or damage to their
chain contact faces, renewing any which are
badly marked.
Refitting
Camshaft c h a i n a n d s p r o c l t e t s
25 If any new components are iaeing fitted,
transfer any alignment marks you have made
rail
B Guide rails
from the original components to aid refitting.
Ensure the crankshaft is still at the TDC
position.
26 If not already fitted, refit the balance shaft
timing chain and sprockets as described in
paragraphs 42 to 49.
27 Slide the crankshaft drive sprocket (and
spring washer, where fitted) onto the Woodruff
key on the crankshaft. Note: FRONT is
marked on the outer face of the spmcket (see
Illustration).
28 Refit the intake camshaft sprocket complete
wltti timing chain down through the top of the
cylinder head. The copper coloured link should
line up with the INT mark on the intake sprocket
(a cable-tie can be used to keep the chain in
position - see illustration 8.0b|. Attach the
sprocket to the camshaft using a new securing
bolt, tightening it hand-tighl at this stage.
29 Insert the liming chain tension rail up
through the engine casing into position for the
tensioner. (Do not refit the lower securing bolt
until the timing chain is in position.)
30 Insert Ihe exhaust camshaft sprocket into
the timing chain, making sure the silver link on
the timing chain lines up with the EXH marit on
the sprocket (a cable-tie can iDe used to keep
Ihe chain in position - see illustration 8.0a),
tnspectlon
Ti Examine the teeth on the sprockets for
mri sign of wear or damage such as chipped,
hooked or missing teeth. It there is any sign of
•ear or damage on any sprocket/gear, all ttie
ajjDCkets/gears and the relevant chain shouid
he renewed as a set.
S Inspect the links of each timing chain for
S9IS of wear or damage on the rollers. The
• r e n t of wear can be judged by checking
9v amount by which the chain can be Pent
•deways; a new chain will have very little
1 U^ng a drift to lock the balance shaft
sprocket
8.27 Refit the timing chain crankshaft
sprocket, noting FRONT is marked on the
outer face
8.30 Turning the camstiaft slightly using
an open-ended spanner to locate the
sprocket in the correct position
8 ^ RemthebrfMice Shaft crankshaft
sprocket, noting FRONT is marked on the
outer face
Attach the sprocket to the camshaft using a
new securing twit, tightening it hand-tight at
this stage. Note: One or boffi of Ihe camshafts
may have moved slightly, due to valve spring
pressure. It may be necessary to turn the
camshafts slightly to locate the sprockets
in the correct position, use an open-ended
spanner on the camshaft if required (see
illustration). Do not turn the camshafts too
far as t/ie engine is set at TDC and the valves
could hit the pistons.
31 Locate the timing chain onto the crankshaft
drive Sprocket, aligning the silver link with the
mark on the spnscket {see llluMrafion BJOc).
8.44 Refit the balance shaft sprockets
using new securing bolts
32 The lower securing bolt can now be fitted
to the tension rail and tightened to its specified
torque.
33 Insert the guide rail and fit lower securing
twit, tightening it to its specified torque.
34 Refit the guide rail upper securing trolt and
access bolt in the cylinder head, tightening
them to their specified torque,
Caulfon; All the timing marks (coloured
chain links) must be aligned with the
corresponding marJts on Ihe sprockets.
This procedure
must be carried
out
correctly, otherwise the timing being offset
by one tooth will result in engine damage.
w points upwards on the intake sprocket
35 Refit the timing chain cover as described
in Section 6.
36 Remove the cable-ties from camshaft
sprockets. Hold the camshafts in turn with an
open-ended spanner on the flats provided ani
tighten the sprocket bolts to the specified
Stage 1 torque setting, then tighten the bolh
through the specified Stage 2 and Stage 3
angles, it is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final stages
of the tightening, to ensure accuracy, if a gauge
is not available, use white paint to malte
alignment marks prior to tightening; the marks
can then be used to check that the bolts have
oeen nstated through tho conect angle.
37 Attach the sliding rail for the camshaft
timing chain to the top of the cylinder head,
using new retaining bolts tighten them to the
specified torque (see illustration).
38 Refit the camshaft timing chain lensiona"
as described in Section 7.
39 Refit the camshaft position sensor and
reconnect the wiring plug.
40 Rotate the crankshaft through two
complete revolutions (720°) in the correct
direction of rotation (to bring number 4 piston
back to TDC on its compression stroke). If S »
special tool is available, check the valve timing
as described in Section 3,
41 Retit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4, then reconnect the battery negative
tenninal.
Balance shaft chain a n d s p r o c k e t s
42 Refit the drivegear to the coolant pump,
and tighten the three securing bolts to tt>e
specified torque.
43 Slide the crankshaft drivegear/sprocket
(and spring washer, where fitted) onto the
Woodruff key on the crankshaft. Note: FROfiT
Is marked on the outer face of the gear (aeo
illustration). The timing mark on the drivegear
should be pointing downwards to aiion with
the silver-coloured link on the timing chain.
44 Refit the exhaust sprocket to the balance
8.46 Balance shaft timing chain layout
A Silver-coloured chain links
aligned with timing marks
B Copper-coloured chain link
aligned with timing madr
9.6 Alignment marks made on camshaft
sprockets for refitting
*att, using a new securing bolt (see illustration).
Ttie spnacket is marked EXHAUST and has an
anow whteh points downwards to align with the
siver-coloured link on the timing ch^n. Tighten
the bolts to the specified torque, locking the
Dsfance shaft sprockets as on removal.
45 Refit the intake sprocket to the balance
£ííaft, using a new securing bolt. The sprocket is
rnarked INTAKE and has an anow whteh points
iXiwards to align with the copper-coloured link
on the timing chain (see Illustration). Tighten
the bolts to the specified tonque, locking the
balance shaft spn^ckets as on removal.
46 Refit the balance shaft timing chain to ^ e
sorockets/gears and align the timing mar1een relieved, the
bolts can be fully unscrewed and removed,
along with the caps. Take care not to loose
any locating dowels which may be fitted to
some of the bearing caps and lift the camshaft
out from the head.
Caution: If the bearing cap baits are
carelessly slackened, the bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assembly
must be renewed; the bearing caps are
9.16 Keep the hydraulic tappets In labelled
contarners with clean engine oil
matched to the head and are not available
separately.
15 Otitain 16 small, clean plastic containers,
and label them for Identification. Alternatively,
divide a larger container into compartments.
Lift the followers out from the top of the
cylinder head and store each one in Its
respective fitted position (see illustration).
16 If the hydraulic tappets are also to be
removed, withdraw each hydraulic tappet
and place them in small containers with clean
engine oil. Tills will keep them primed ready
for refitting (see Illustration).
Infection
17 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine the condition
of the bearing surfaces txith on the camshaft
journals and in the cylinder head. If the head
bearing surfaces are worn excessively, the
cylinder head will need to be renewed.
18 Examine the follower bearing surfaces
which contact the camshaft lobes for wear
ridges and scoring. Renew any followers on
which these conditions are apparent.
19 Check the hydraulic tappets (where
removed) and their bores in the cylinder head
for signs of wear or damage, if any tappet is
thought to be faulty it should be renewed.
Refitting
20 Where removed, lubricate the hydraulic
tappets with clean engine oil and carefully
insert each one into its original location in the
cylinder head (see illustration).
) Lubricate the tappets wrth clean
engine oil before refitting
9-25 Refitting No 11 cap to fhe flywheel/
driveplate end of the intake camshaft
21 Refit the camshaft followers to the cylinder
head, ensuring each follower is fitted in its
original location (see illustration).
22 Lubricate the camshaft followers with
clean engine oil then lay the camshafts into
position. Ensure the crankshaft is still set at
TDC, and position fhe camshafts so that the
lobes of No 4 cylinder are pointing upward.
23 Ensure the mating surfaces of the bearing
caps and cylinder head are clean and dry and
lubricate the camshaft journals and lot)es with
clean engine oil.
24 Apply a smear of sealant to the cylinder
head mating surface at the flywheei/drivepiate
end of the intake camshaft (No 11) bearing
cap (see illustration). Refit the cap locating
dowels to the cap if they have been removed.
25 Refit the camshaft bearing caps and the
retaining bolts in their original locations on
the cylinder head. The caps are numbered
1 to 10 with all numbers being the right
way up whan viewed from the drivers seat:
numbers 1 to 5 on the exhaust camshaft
starting from the timing chain end of the
engine, and numbers 6 to 10 on the intake
camshaft starting at the timing chain end.
Refit the n t h cap on the intake camshaft,
at the fivwheel/driveolate end of the cyiinder
head (see illustration).
26 Tighten all bolts by hand only then,
woridng in a spiral pattern from the centre
oulwanJs, tighten the bolts by half a turn at a
time to gradually impose the pressure of the
valve springs on the bearing caps. Repeal
this sequence until all bearing caps are in
contact with the cylinder head then go around
and tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts
g.27 Refit new retaining bolts to the
camshaft sprockets
to the specified torque. When all the caps
have been tightened, where applicable, refit
the cover plate to No 11 tiearing cap using a
new gasket, and tighten the two twits to the
specified tonque.
Caution: If ttte bearing cap bolts are
carelessly tightened, the bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assembly
must be renewed; the bearing caps are
matched to the head and are not available
separately.
27 Using the marks made on removal,
ensure that the timing chain is still correctly
engaged with the sprockets then refit the
camshaft sprockets to the camshafts. It may
be necessary to turn the camshafts slightly to
locate the sprockets in the conect position,
use an open-ended spanner on the camshaft
If required. Fit the new retaining bolts
hand-tight at this stage (see illustration).
10.4 Remove the two coolant hoses
(antjwed) from the from of the cylinder
head
Remove the cable-ties from the timing chain
and spnsckets.
28 Refit the camshaft timing chain tensioner
as described in Secfion 7.
29 If the special tool is available, check
that No 4 cylinder is correctly set at TDC on
compression as descrit«d in Section 3. If the
special tool is not available, make sure the
marks made on the sprockets prior to removal
are comectly aligned.
30 Hold the camshafts in turn with an
open-ended spanner on the flats provided
and tighten the sprocket bolts to the specified
Stage 1 torque setting, then tighten the bolts
through the specified Stage 2 and Stage 3
angles. It is recommended that an anglemeasunng gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
if a gauge is not available, use white paint
to make alignment marks prior to tightening;
the marks can then be used to check that the
bolts have been rotated through the conect
angle.
31 Refit the camshaft timing chain sliding rail
using new retaining bolts, then tighten to the
specified tonque.
32 Rotate the crankshaft through two
complete revolutions (720°! in the correct
direction of rotation (to bring number 4 piston
back to TDC on its compression stroke). If the
special tool is available, check the valve timing
as described in Section 4. If the special tool is
not available, check that the marks made on
the sprockets prior to removal are correctly
aligned.
33 Retit the camshaft position sensor and
reconnect the wiring plug.
34 Refit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 4,
35 Refit the high-pressure fuel pump as
described in Chapter 4A.
36 Reconnect the battery negative terminal
and lower the vehicle to the ground (where
applicable)
10 Cylinder h e a d removal and refitting
^
^
Note: New cylinder head bolts, camshaft
timing chain sliding rail bolts and camshaft
sprocket retaining bolts will be required on
refitting.
Removal
1 Drain the cooling system a
Chapter 1A2 Remove the camshaft timing chain and
spnDckets as described in Section 8.
3 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described in Chapter 4A.
4 Release the retaining dips and disconnect the
coolant hoses fram the frant of the right-hand
end of the cylinder head (see illustration),
5 Slacken and remove the four retaining bolls
from the timing chain end of the cylinder head
(see Illustrations 10.25a and 10.25b).
10.1S Using a tap to clean out the threads
In ttie oyiinder block
6 Working in the reverse of the tightening
sequence shown in illustration 10,31,
progressively slacken the ten main cylinder
head bolts by half a turn at a time, until all
bolts can be unscrewed by hand,
7 Lift out the cylinder head bolts and where
applicable recover the washers.
8 Lift the cylinder head away; seek assistance
if possible, as it is a heavy assembly
9 Remove the gasket, noting the locating
dowels fitted to the top of the cylinder block.
If they are a loose fit, remove the locating
dowels and store them with the head for
safe-keeping.
Caution: Do not iay the head on its lower
mating surface; support the head on
wooden blocks as it may be damaged if the
head is placed directly onto a bench.
10 If the cyiinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, then refer to Part E of this Chapter,
Preparation
for
refitting
10.17a Check the dowels are in position to
locate the cylinder head gasket . . .
bolt tightening torque can be applied and
to prevent the possibility of the block being
cracked by hydraulic pressure when the bolts
are tightened.
14 The cylinder head bolts must be discarded
and renewed, regardless of their apparent
condition.
15 It warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part E of this
Chapter if necessary.
Refitting
16 Using a tap, clean out the thread in the
four bolt holes at the timing chain end of the
cylinder block (see illustration). Wipe clean
the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase.
17 Check that the locating dowels are in
position then fH the new gasket to the cylinder
block (see Illustrations).
10.17b . . . ensunng the gasket is fitted
with Its OBEN/TOP marking uppermost
18 Ensure the crankshaft is positioned
approx 60° BTDC (this is to prevent any
damage lo the valves or pistons when refitting
the cylinder head).
19 With the aid of an assistant, carefully
refit the cylinder head assembly lo the block,
aligning il with the locating dowels.
20 Apply a smear of oil to the threads and
the underside of the heads ot the new cylinder
head bolts and carefully enter each bolt into
its relevant hole [do not drop them in). Screw
all bolts in, by hand only, until finger-tight,
21 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head
bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using
a torque wrench and suitable socket (aao
lllusb^atlon).
22 Once all bolts have been lightened to the
Stage 1 torque, working again in the specified
sequence, go around and tighten all bolts
through the specified J
"
11 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
dean before refitting the head. Use a hanJ
plastic or wood scraper to remove ali traces
of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston
crowns. Take particular care, as the surfaces
are damaged easily. Also, make sure that
the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and
water passages - this is particularly Important
for the lubrication system, as carbon could
block the oil supply to any ot the engine's
components. Using adhesive tape and paper,
seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder
block/crankcase. To prevent carbon entering
ttie gap between the pistons and bores, smear
a little grease in the gap. After cleaning each
piston, use a small brush to remove all traces
of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe
away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean ali
the pistons in the same way.
12 Check the mating surfaces ot the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, tnev may be removed carefully with a
tile, nut It excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal (see your local
specialist for machining).
13 Ensure that the cylinder head bolt holes
m the cranKcase are clean and free of oil.
Syringe or soak up any oil left in the bolt holes.
Tills is most important in onJer that the correct
10.21 Cylinder head bolt
10.22 Tightening the cylinder head down
through Its stages, using an angle gauge
recommended that an angle-measuring gauge
is used to ensure accuracy (see iflustrationj.
If a gauge is not available, use white paint to
maKe alignment marks prior to tightening; the
marie seen, use
torque setting.
a suitable marker pen and mark the surface
12.7b . . . the outer rotor-to-oil pump
housing . . .
13.3b . . . a n d withdraw the balance shaft
assembly
12.7c . . . a n d also usmg a
checkiha endfloat
c) Refit tfie pump cover tightening the cov
screws to the specified torque.
d) On completion prime the oil pump by
filling it with clean engine oil whilst
rotating the Inner rotor.
Refitting
13 Balance s h a f t removal and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the balance shaft timing chain and
sprackets as descnbed In Section 8,
2 If the balance stiaft sprockets are removed,
mark the shafts lo identify the intake shaft
from the exhaust shaft for refitting,
3 Undo the securing bolt from the balance
shaft retaining plate and slide the balance
shaft out from the cylinder block (see
illustrations).
Refitting
4 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tighten
the retaining plate bolts to their specified
torque.
5 Refit the balance shaft timing chain and
sprockets as descnbed in Section 8.
Right-iiand
(timing
chain
end)
1 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described
In Section 5.
2 Ustng a large flaf-bladed screwdriver, carefully lever the seal out trom the timing chain
3 Clean the seal housing and polish oft any
buns or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place,
4 Press/tap the new seal squarely into
position until it sits into the recess in the cover
(see Illustration). If necessary, a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal can be
used to tap the seal into position. Take great
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting
and ensure that the seal lips face inwards.
6 Wash off any traces of oil. then refit the
crankshaft pulley as described in Section 5,
Left-hand
(flywheei/drivepiate
end)
6 Remove the flyv/heel/driveplate as described
in Section 15.
7 Carefully punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in ttie oil seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each and pull on the screws with pliers
to extract the seal (see illustration).
8 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
buns or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail In the first place, tiote: Insulation
tape can be put around the crankshaft flange
to help fit the oil seal.
9 Ease the new seal into position on the end
of the crankshaft. Press the seal squarely into
position until it is flush wrth the bearing cap.
If necessary, a suitable tubular drift, such as
a socket, which bears only on the hare! outer
edge ol the seal can be used lo tap the seal
into position. Take great care not to damage
the seal lips during fitting and ensure that the
seaS. lips face inwands (see Illustration).
10 If insulation tape was used around the
crankshaft flange, remove It, taking care not
to damage the oil seal. Retit the flywheel as
described in Section 15.
15 Flywheei/drivepiate removai, inspection
and refitting
.
^
^
Note: New flywheei/drivepiate retaining bolts
wili be required on refitting.
Removal
Manual t r a n s m i s s i o n m o d e l s
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A then remove the clutch assembly
as described In Chapter 6.
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement
14.9 Carefully ease the oil s
of the crankshaft and tap/presi
squarely Into position
is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant
to move the engine/transmission unit backand-forth, or from side-to-side, while you
watch the mounting. While some free play is
to be expected even from new components,
excessive wear should beobvioi
free play is found, checit first that tt>e f i
are correctly secured, then renew any worn
components as described below.
to that shown (see Illustration) Alternatively,
bolt a strap between the flywheel and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Make alignment
marks between the flywheel and crankshaft
using paint or a suitable marker pen.
3 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
very heavy.
Automatic transmission models
Renewal
4 Remove the trar
Sion as described
Chapter 76 then remove the driveplate as
described In paragraphs 2 and 3.
15.2 Lock the
Inspection
5 On manual transmission models, examine
the flywheel for scoring of the clutch face. If
the clutch face is scored, the flywheel may be
surface-ground, but renewal is preferable.
S On automatic transmission models closely
examine the driveplate and ring gear teeth
for signs of wear or damage and check the
drivepiate surface for any signs of cracks.
7 If there is any doubt about the condition of
the flywheei/drivepiate, seek the advice of a
Vauxhall/Opel dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. They will be able to advise If it is
possible to recondition it or whether renewal
is necessary.
Refitting
n models
B Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft.
S Apply a drop of locking compound to each
of the new retaining bolt threads then offer up
the flywheel, if the original is being refitted,
align the marits made prior to removal. Screw
n Uie retaining bolts.
10 Lock the flywheel by the method used on
rwnoval, and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified Stage 1 torque setting then
angle-tighten the bolts through the specified
Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension
bar, and finally through the specified Stage 3
angle. It Is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy If
a gauge Is not available, use white paint to
make alignment marks between the bolt head
and flywheel prior to tightening; the marks can
men be used to check that the bolt has been
rotated through the conect angle,
11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6
then remove the locking tool, and refit the
transmission as described in Chapter 7A.
Automatic transmission models
12 Clean the mating suri^aces of the driveplate
and crankshaft and remove all traces of locking
compound from the driveplate retaining boli
threads.
13 Apply a drop of locking compound to each
of the new retaining twit threads then offer up
the driveplate, if the original is being refitted
align the marks made prior to removal. Screw
Ti the retaining bolts.
14 Lock the driveplate by the method used
on removal, and tighten the retaining bolts
to the specified Stage 1 tonque setting then
angle-tightOT the bolts through the specified
Stage 2 angle, usmg a socket and extension
bar. It is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
If a gauge is not available, use white paint to
make alignment marks tietween the bolt head
and flywheel prior to tightening: the marks can
then be used to check that the bolt has been
rotated through the correct angle,
15 Remove the locking tool and refit the
transmission as described in Chapter 7B,
16 Engine/fe-ansmission
mountings inspection and renewal
Inspection
1 If improved access is required, fimily apply
the handbrake, then jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vahicle support).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar. check
for wear in the mounting by carefully levering
against it to check for free play; where this
thK>ugh-bolt {A) and mounting bracket-to-
Note: Before slackening any of the engine
mounting bolts/nuts, the relative positions of
the mountings to their various brackets should
be marked to ensure correct alignment upon
refitting.
Front m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
5 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
mounting to the subframe bracket. Withdraw
the through-bolt (see Itluslration).
7 Undo the bolts securing the mounting
bracket to the transmission, then manoeuvre
the mounting and bracket out of position.
8 Check all components for signs of wear or
damage, and renew as necessary.
9 Locate the mounting in the subframe, refit
the through bolt and nut, then tighten the nut
finger-tight at tills stage.
10 Refit the mounting bracket to the transmission and tighten its bolts to the specified
tonque.
11 Tighten the through-bolt nut to the
specified torque then on completion, lower
the vehicie to the ground.
Rear m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
12 Apply the handbrake, then Jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
13 Undo the three nuts securing the exhaust
system front pipe to the catalytic converter,
taking care to support the flexible section.
Note: Angular movement in excess of 10'
can cause permanent damage to the flexible
section. Separate the flange joint and recover
the gasket.
14 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission and
16.14 Rear mounting/torque link
through-boIt (arrowed)
le Ifnk bracketto-subframe mounting bolt nuts (arrowed)
the through-bolt secuhng the mounting to the
bracket (see illustration).
16 Undo the nuts and remove the two bolts
secunng the mounting to the subframe (see
illustration). Manoeuvre the mounting and
bracket out from under the car
16 Refit the bracket to the transmission and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
17 Locate the new mounting in position.
Insert ttie bolts and tighten the bolt/nuts to the
specified torque.
18 Using a new gasket, refit the exhaust front
pipe flange joint to the catalytic converter and
tighten the three retaining nuts to the specified
torque. On completion, lower the vehicie to
the gnDund.
Right-hand mounting
19 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axie
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
20 Remove the air cleaner as descnbed in
Chapter 4A.
21 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder
head, and support the weight of the engine,
22 Mark the position of the three bolts
securing the mounting bracket to the engine
bracket and undo the bolts. Undo the two
bolts and one nut secunng the mounting to
the body and remove the mounting s
(see illustrations).
16.22a Rfghf-h
engine bracket bolts (anowed).
HI bracket r e t a i n ^ bolts
(amwed) - tfiesol model shown, petrol similar
23 Place the mounting assembly in position
and refit the two bolts and the nut secuhng
the mounting to the body. Tighten the bolts/
nut to the specified torque. Align the mounting
in its original position, then tighten the three
mounting bracket bolts to the specitied
torque.
24 Remove the hoist, then refit the air cleaner
as described in Chapter 4A,
25 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
gnaund.
Left-hand m o u n t i n g
26 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
27 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
retaining bolts (arrowed) - shown wrth
engine/transmission removed
to the engine lifting brackets on the cyiinder
head, and support the weight of the engine.
28 Using a Torx socket, unscrew the three
bolts securing the mounting bracket to the
transmission bracket (see illustration).
29 Undo the four bolts securing the mounting
to the body and the three bolts securing the
transmission bracket to the transmission (see
illustration). Remove the mounting assembly
from the car.
30 Locate the mounting brackets in position
then insert the bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
31 Disconnect the hoist and lifting tackle.
32 Refit the battery box and battery as
described In Chapter 5A.
Chapter 2 PartC:
1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine
in-car repair procedures
Contents
Section number
Camshaft and followers - removal, inspection and refitting
11
Camshaft cover - removal and refitting
5
Camshaft oil seal - renewal
9
Compression and leakdown tests-description and interpretation.. 2
Crankstiaft oil seals - renewal
16
Crankshaft pulleyAnbration damper - removal and refitting
6
Cylinder head-removal and refitting
12
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal
18
Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting
17
General information
1
Section number
Oil filter housing-removal and refitting
Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting
Sump - removal and refitting
Timing belt - removal and refitting
,
Timing belt sprockets, tensioner and idler pulley - removal and
refining
Top dead centre fTDC) for No 1 piston - locating
Valve clearances-checking and adjustment
Valve timing - checking and adjustment
Degrees of difficulty
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner with
experience
^
^
^
FaMytmcmt,
|
' Difficult, suitable
suitable for competent 3
¿ ^ 1 Very difficult,
3C I DIY or pnafesslona! •
j for experienced DIY 5; I suitable f o r e
Specifications
General
Bigine type
Four-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled. Single overhead camshaft,
belt-driven
toiufacturer's engine code'
Zl 9DT
Bore
82.0 mm
Sroke
90.4 mm
Capacity
1910 cc
Compression ratio
18.0:1
Bring orcler
1 -3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Ifcectlon of crankshaft rotation
Clockwise (viewed from timing belt end of engine)
'For details of engine code location, see 'Vefiicie identification'in ttie Reference Ctiapter.
Compression pressures
Maximum difference tietween any two cylinders
1.5 bar
i m v e clearances
tigine cold (inlet and exhaust)
|jid}rication system
l i r i m u m oil pressure at 10CC
O i pump type
0.30 lo 0.40 mm
1.0 bar at Idle speed
Rotor-type, driven by crankshaft pulley/vibraflon damper from
crankshaft
15
14
13
7
8
3
10
4
Torque w r e n c h settings
Air conditioning compressor mounting bracleanng cap twits
Camshaft cover bolts
Camshaft sprocket bolf
Connecting rod big-end bearing cap bolt:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Crankshaft oil seal housing
Crankshaft pulleyAiibration damper bolts
Cranksiiaft sprocket b o l f t
Cylinder head bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Stage 5
Engine mountings:
Fnjnt mounting/torque link;
Mounting to transmission
Mounting to subframe
Left-hand mounting;
Mounting-to-body bolts
Mounting bracket to transmission bracket
Transmission bracket to transmission
Rear mounting/torque link:
Mounting bracket to transmission
Mounting to subframe
Mounting to transmission bracket
Right-hand mounting;
Engine bracket-to-engine bolts:
Lower bolts (M8)
Upperbolts(MIO)
Mounting-to-body bolts/nut
Mounting-to-engine bracket bolts
Engine-to-transmission unit bolts:
Ml 0 bolts
Ml 2 bolts
Flywheel boltsHigh-pressure fuel pump sprocket nutIntermediate shaft bearing housing support bracket bolts
Main bearing cap bolts;*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Oil fiHer housing to cylinder block
Oil pump housing to cylinder block
Oil pump pick-up/strainer bolts
Roadwheel bolts
Sump bolts:
M6 bolts
M8 bolts
M10 bolts
Sump drain plug
Timing belt idler pulley bolt
Timing belt tensioner bolt
Timing belt upper cover bolts:
M6 bolts
MB bolts
• Use new nuts/batts
t Left-hand thread
Nm
50
50
50
15
10
120
ibfft
37
37
37
11
7
89
25
Angle-tighten a further 60°
9
25
340
7
18
251
18
20
65
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 90°
15
48
80
80
59
59
20
55
55
15
41
41
80
60
60
59
44
59
25
50
55
55
18
37
41
41
40
60
160
50
55
30
44
11B
37
41
25
Angle-tighten a further 100°
50
9
9
110
37
7
7
81
9
25
40
20
50
30
7
18
30
15
37
22
9
25
7
18
18
1
General i n f o r m a t i o n
H o w to use this
Chapter
Ttiis Part of Chapter 2 describes the
repair procedures which can reasonably be
canied out on the engine while it remains in
the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
torn the vehicle and is being dismantled as
described in Chapter 2E, any preliminary
deniantling pnDcedures can be Ignored.
Note that, while it may be possible
physically to overhaul items such as the
piston/connecting rod assemblies while the
engine Is in the vehicle, such tasks are not
usually carried out as separate operations,
and usually require the execution of several
additional procedures (not to mention the
cleaning of components and of oilways); for
ttils reason, all such tasks are classed as
m^or oveitiaul procedures, and are described
•1 Chapter 2E,
Chapter 2E describes the removal of the
oiglne/transmission unit from the vehicle, and
ttie full overhaul prcicedures which can then
be carried out.
Engine
description
The 1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine is of
9» eight-valve, in-line four-cylinder, single
wethead camshaft type, mounted transversely
at the front of the car, with the transmission on
left-hand end.
The crankshaft is supported within the
cyinder block on five shell-type main 1
Thrustwashers are fitted to number 3
bearing, to control crankshaft endfloat.
The c o n n e c t i n g rods r o t a t e on
fcorizontally-split
bearing shells at their
iig-ends. The pistons are attached to the
connecting rods by gudgeon pins, which
s e retained by circlips. The aluminium-alloy
petons are fitted with three piston rings • K ) compression rings and scraper-type oil
control ring.
Ttie camshaft mns directly in the cylinder
head, and is driven by the crankshaft via a
torthed composite robber timing belt (which
^
drives the high-pressure fuel pump and
• t e coolant pump). The camshaft operates
aach valve via a camshaft follower with
«|ustment shim.
Lubrication is by pressure-feed from a
nbir-type oil pump, which is mounted on the
•ght-hand end of the crankshaft. The pump
draws oil through a strainer located in the
»*np, and then foroes it through an externally
•wonted full-flow cartridge-type filter. The
e i flows into galleries in the cylinder block/
cankcase, from where it is distributed to the
oankshaft (main bearings) and camshaft.
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via
internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the
supply. The camshaft k
lubricated by splash, as are all other engine
components.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed; crankcase fumes are drawn from
the oil separator (integral with the camshaft
cover), and passed via a hose to the inlet
manifold.
Operations
with
engine
in
car
The following operations can be carried out
without having to remove the engine from the
a) Removal and refitting of the camshaft
b) Adjustment of the vatve clearances.
c) Removal and refitting of the cylinder
d) Removal and refitting of the timing belt,
tensioner. idler pulleys and sprocle worthwhile buying such a tester
for occasional use, but it may be possible
to borrow or hire one - if not, have the test
performed by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer, or
suitably-equipped garage. If the necessary
equipment is available, proceed as follows.
3 Remove the fuel injectors as described in
Chapter 4B.
4 Screw the compression tester adapter In to
tfie fuel injector hole of No 1 cylinder.
5 With the help of an assistant, crank the
engine on the starter motor; after one or
two revolutions, the compression pressure
should build-up to a maximum figure, and
then stabilise. Record the highest reading
obtained.
6 R^eat the test on the remaining cylinders,
reconding the pressure In each.
7 All cylindere should produce very similar
pressures; any difference greater than the
maximum figure given in the Specifications
indicates the existence of a fault. Note that
the compression should build-up quickly in
a healthy engine; low compression on the
first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which does not build-up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head
could also be the cause). Note: TTie cause of
poor compression is less easy to estabiidi
on a diesel engine than on a petrol one. The
effect of introducing oil into the cylinders
('wet' testing) is not conclusive, because there
is a risk that the oil wiii sit in the recess on the
piston crown instead ofpas^ng to the rings,
8 On completion of the test, refit the fuel
injectors as described in Chapter 4B.
Lealfdown
test
9 A leakdown test measures the rate at which
compressed air fed into the cylinder is lost. It
is an alternative to a compression test, and in
many ways it is better, since the escaping air
provides easy identification of where pressure
loss is occurring (piston rings, valves or head
gasket).
10 The equipment needed for leakdown
testing is unlikely to be available to the home
mechanic. If poor compression Is suspected,
have the test performed by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer, or suitably-equipped garage.
3
Top d e a d centre
(TDC) for No 1 p i s t o n iocating
I
Note: To accurately determine the TDC
position for No 1 piston, it will be necessary
to use Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46788 (or
suitable equivalents) to set the crankshaft at
the TDC position (see illustration}.
1 In its travel up and down its cylinder bore.
Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
that each piston reaches as the crankshaft
rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both
at the top of the compression stroke and
again at the top of the exhaust stroke, for the
purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to
the piston position of No 1 cylinder at the top
of its compression stroke.
2 Number 1 piston (and cylinder) is at the
3.0 Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46788
(or equivalent) is required to set the TDC
position for No 1 piston
3.3c . . . release the hose support clip
right-hand (timing bell) end of the engine, and
its TDC position is located as follows. Note
that the craniolt and allow the tensioner to retract, relieving
the tension on the timing belt.
6 Slide the timing belt from its sprockets and
remove it from the engine. If the belt is to be
re-used, use white paint or similar to mark the
direction ol rotation on the belt. Do not rotate
the crankshaft or camshafts until the timing
belt has been refitted.
7 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs
of uneven wear, splitting or oil contamination,
and renew if if there is the slightest doubt
about its condition. If the engine Is undergoing
an overhaul and is approaching the specified
interval for belt renewal (see Chapter IB)
renew the belt as a matter of course,
regardless of its apparent condition. If signs of
oil contamination are found, trace the source
of the oil leak and rectify it, then wash down
the engine timing belt area and all related
components to remove all traces of oil.
Remting
8 On reassembly, thoroughly clean the timing
t>eit spnsckets and tensioner/idler pulleys.
9 Place the timing belt In position over the
crankshaft sprocket. If the original belt is being
refitted, ensure that the arrow mark made
on removal points in the normal direction of
rotation, as before.
10 Check that the camshaft and crankshaft are
still conectly positroned with No 1 piston at TDC
on compresskin as described in Section 3, and
refit the crankshaft positioning tool.
11 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft,
camshaft and fuel pump sprockets and
around the idler pulleys, ensuring that the belt
front mn is taut (ie, all slack is on the tensioner
side of the belt), then fit the belt over the
coolant pump sprocket and tensioner pulley.
Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it.
Ensure that the belt teeth are conectiy seated
c«itrally in the sprockets, and that the timing
mark on the camshaft sprocket remain in
alignment.
12 Screw in a suitable bolt, approximately
50 mm in length, into the threaded hole
directly below the timing belt tensioner. Using
a screwdriver resting on the bolt as a pivot,
move the adjusting lever on the tensioner until
the tensioner pointer is aligned with the mark
on the backplate. Hold the tensioner in this
position and tighten the tensioner retaining
bolt (see illustrations).
7.12a Using a screwdriver resting on a
pivot bolt (aiTOwed), move the adjusting
lever on the tensioner . . .
7.12b . . . until the tensioner pointer
(anowed) is aligned with the mark on the
backplate
again rotate the crani^shaft smoothly through
two complete turns (720°) in the normal
direction of rotation. Check that the timing belt
tensioner pointer is still aligned with the mark
on the backplate. If not, repeat the procedure
described in paragraph 16.
18 When all is conect, remove the tensioner
position pivot bolt. Refit the bolf removed
from the oil pump housing and tighten it to the
specified torque.
19 Place the engine bracket in position and
refit the two lower bolts, and the three upper
bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Refit the auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley to the
engine bracket and tighten the retaining bolf
to the specified torque.
20 Refit the upper timing belt cover and
tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque. Clip the wiring harness back into
position.
21 Place the right-hand engine mounting
assembly in position and refit the two bolts
and tfie nut securing the mounting to the tmdy
Tighten the bolts/nut to the specified torque.
Align the mounting in its original position, then
tighten the three mounting bracket bolts to the
specified torque. Remove the jack from under
the engine,
22 Refit the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4B.
23 Place the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner
assembly in position ensuring that the locating
peg on the tensioner mounting surface
engages correctly with the corresponding hole
in the mounting bracket. Tighten the tensioner
central mounting bolt to the specified torque.
24 Refit the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 6, thenrefitthe
auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1B.
25 Refit the plastic cover to the top of the
engine and tighten the retaining bolts.
26 Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray,
then lower the car to the ground and tighten
the vrtieel bolts fo the specified torque.
17 Remove all the positioning tools and
T i m i n g belt Sprockets,
tensioner and idier pulley removal and refitting
;S
Note: Certain special toois will be required
for the removal and refitting of the sprockets.
Read through the entire procedure to
familiarise yourself with the wodr involved,
then either obtain the manufacturer's special
tools, or use the alternatives described.
13 Remove the crankshaft positioning tool.
14 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket
bolt, rotate the crankshaft smoothly through
two complete turns (720°) in the normal
direction of rotation to settle the timing belt in
position. At the end of the second turn, align
the mark on the camshaft sprocket with the
pointer on the camshaft cover
15 Refit the positioning ring of tool EN-46788
over the fastening stud and engage it with the
crankshaft sprocket. Ensure that the hole in
t i e positioning ring engages with the lug on
t i e sprocket. Secure the tool in position with
t i e retaining bolt and nut.
16 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining
bolt and, using a screwdriver resting on i
prvot bolt as before, move the adjusting le'
on the tensioner until the tensioner poln .
is once again aligned with the mari( on 1
backplate. Hold the tensioner in this positi
» K l tighten the tensioner retaining bolt to the
^jeclfied torque,
8
Camshaft
sprocket
Note: A new sprocket retaining bolt will be
required for refitting.
Removal
To mukt' .1 spruckel holding tool, obtain
two lengths of steei strip about 6 mm
thick by about 30 mm wide or similar,
one 600 mm long, the other 200 mm
long (all dimensions are approximate).
Bolt the two strips together to form a
forked end, leaving the bolt slack so
that the shorter strip can pivot freely.
At the other end of each 'prang- of the
fork, dnil a suitable hole and fit a nut
and bolt to allow the tool to engage
mth the spokes in the sprocket
•-•L-.. .
1 Remove the timing belt as descnbed in
Section 7.
2 It will now be necessary to hold the
camshaft sprocket to enable the retaining bolt
to be removed. Vauxhall/Opel special tools
EN-46787 and KM-956-1 are available for
this purpose, however, a home-made tool can
easily be fabricated (see Tool Tip).
3 Engage the tool with the holes in the
Tishaft sprocket, taking care not to damage
5 camshaft sensor located behind the
sprocket
4 Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove the
sprocket from the end of the camshaft.
8.18 Engage the holding tool with the
holes In ttto fuel pump sprocket and undo
the retaining nut
8.12a Remove the bolt and
Refitting
5 Prior to refitting cheok tbe oil seal for signs
ot damage or leakage. If necessary, renew as
described in Section 9.
6 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft end,
aligning its cut-out with the locating peg, and
flt the new retaining bolt.
7 Retain the sprocket using the holding tool,
and tighten the retaining tx>lt to the specified
torque.
S Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7.
Crankshaft
sprocket
Note 1: The crankshaft sprocket retaining
bolt is extremely tight. Ensure that the holding
tool used to prevent rotation as the bolt
is slackened is of sturdy constniction and
securely attached.
Note 2: A new sprocket retaining txiit will be
required for refitting.
Removal
9 Remove the timing belt as descnbed in
Section 7.
10 It will now be necessary to hold the
crankshaft sprocket to enable the retaining
bolt to be removed. Vauxhail special tools
EN-47630 and KM-956-1 are available for this
purpose, however, a home-made tool similar
to that described in paragraph 2 can easily be
fabricated.
11 Using the crankshaft pulley retaining bolts,
securely attach the tool to the crankshaft
sprocket. Vi/ith the help of an assistant, hold
8.19 Use a suitable pullerto release the
fuel pump sprocket taper
the sprocket stationary and
retaining bolt. Note: The sprocket retaining
bolt has a left-hand thread and is unscrewed
by turning it clockwise.
12 Remove the bolt and washer and slide the
sprocket off the end ot the crankshaft (see
Illustrations). Note that a new boh will be
required for refitting.
Refitting
13 Align the sprocket location key with the
crankshaft groove and slide the sprocket
into position. Fit the new retaining bolt and
washer
14 Hold the sprocket stationary using the
holding tool and tighten the retaining bolt to
the specified torque. Remove the holding
tool.
High-pressure
pump
sprocket
Note: A new sprocket retaining nut will be
required for refitting.
Removal
16 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
17 it will now be necessary to hold the fuel
pump sprocket to enable the retaining nut to
be removed. Vauxhail special tools KM-6347
and KM-956-1 are available for this purpose,
however, a home-made tool similar to that
descnbed in paragraph 2 can easily be
fabricated,
18 Engage the tool with the holes in the
S.20a Once the ta
fuel pump sprocket and undo the sprocket
retaining nut (see Illustration). Note that a
new nut wili be required for refitting,
19 Attach a suitable puller to the threaded
holes in the fuel pump sprocket using bolts
and washers similar to the arrangement shown
(see illustration).
20 Tighten the puller centre bolt to release
the sprocket from the taper on the pump shafL
Once the taper releases, remove the puller and
withdraw the sprocket. Collect the Woodnitf
key from the pump shaft (see Illustrations).
Refitting
21 Clean the fuel pump shaft and the
sprocket hub ensuring that all traces of oil or
grease are removed.
22 Refit the Woodroff key to the pump shaft,
then locate the sprocket in position. Fit the
new retaining nut.
23 Hold the sprocket stationary using the
holding tool and tighten the retaining nut to
the specified torque. Remove the holding
tool.
24 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7.
Tensioner
assembly
Removal
25 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
26 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt
and remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine (see Illustration).
collect ttie Woodruff key
from the pump shaft
Refitting
27 Fit ttie tensioner to ttie engine, maled in
Section 8.
10 Valve c l e a r a r t c e s checking and adjustment
8.2G Slacken and remove the retaining
bolt and remove the timing belt tensioner
assembly
the right-hand front roadwheel, then undo the
ten bolts and remove the engine undertray for
access to the crankshaft pulley
3 Remove the camshaft cover as described in
Section 5.
4 Using a socket and extension on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft
in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise
when viewed from the right-hand end of
the engine) until camshaft lobes 1 and 6 are
pointing upward (see Illustration).
5 On a piece of paper, draw the outline Of
the engine with the cylinders numbered fram
the timing belt end. Show the position of
each valve, together with the specified valve
clearance. Note that the clearance for both
the inlet and exhaust valves Is the same.
6 With the cam lobes positioned 3s d«icribed
Ing feeler blades, measure
1 between the base of camshaft
lobes 1 and 6 and the adjustment shim
located on the top of the camshaft follower
{see illustration). Record the clearances on
the paper
7 Rotate the crankshaft until camshaft lobes 5
and 8 are pointing upward. Measure the
clearance between the base of the camshaft
loties and the shims on their followers and
recond the clearances on the paper
8 Rotate the crankshaft until camshaft lobes
4 and 7 are pointing upward. Measure the
clearance between the base of the camshaft
tobes and the shims on their followers and
record the clearances on the paper.
9 Rotate the crankshaft until camshaft lobes 2
and 3 are pointing upward. Measure the
clearance between the base of the camshaft
8.27 The slot on the tensioner backplate
must locate over tho peg (arrowed) on the
engine bracket
lobes and the shims on their followers and
record the clearances on the paper.
10 If all the clearances are conect, refit the
camshaft cover as described in Section 5 .
Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray,
then lower the car to the ground and tighten
the wheel bolts to the specified tonjue.
11 If any clearance measured is not correct,
adjustment must be carried out as described
in the following paragraphs.
Adjustment
12 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
camshaft lobes 1 and 6 are once again
pointing upward. With the camshaft In this
position, valve No 1 and valve No 6 can be
adjusted as follows.
13 Rotate Ihe follower until the groove on its
upper edge is facing towands the front of the
engine (see illustration).
14 Insert Vauxhall/Opel special toot EN-4(i797
Note: VauxhaUIOpeS special tools EN-46797
and EN-46799 (or suitable equivalents) will tie
required If adjustment is necessary.
Checking
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be
overstressed, as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. The engine must
be cold for the check to be accurate. The
clearances are checked as follows.
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
WJS Va\ve clearance measurement
10.13 Rotate the follower until the groove
(arrowed) is facing towards the front of the
ithin Iii lits.
It may be possible to correct
the clearances by moving
tlie shims around between
the valves, but don't rotate
the crankshaft wid> any shims missing.
Keep a note of all the shim thicknesses
to assist valve clearance
adjustment
when they need to be done again.
10.16 The thickness of each shim should
be stamped on one of its surfaces
between the base of the camshaft lobe and
the shim and lever downward to open the
valve. Now insert Vauxhall/Opel special tool
EN-46799 between the edge of the follower
and the base of the camshaft to hold the
valve open. Take care when doing this as it is
possible for the vaive to contact the piston. II
any resistance is felt as the valve is opened,
remove the tool and rotate the crankshaft
slightly to move the piston down its bore.
15 Using a small screwdriver inserted in the
groove on the edge of the follower, lilt up
the shim, then slide it out from between the
follower and camshaft.
16 Clean the shim, and measure its thickness
with a micrameter. The shims cany thickness
markings, but wear may have reduced the
original thickness, so be sure to double-check
(see Illustration).
17 Add the measured clearance ol the valve
to the thickness of the original shim then
subtract the specified vaive clearance from
this figure. Tbis will give you the thickness of
the shim required. For example:
Measured valve clearance
0.45 mm
Plus thicKness of tne original sri/m 2.70 mm
Equals
3.15 mm
Minus clearance required
0.40 mm
mckness of stiim required
2.76 mm
18 Obtain the correct thickness ot shim
required and lubricate it with clean engine oil.
With the valve still held open with the special
tool, slide the shim into position, with the
thickness number downwards, ensuring it is
correctly located,
19 Using the first special tool, lever down on
the shim and remove the second special tool.
1 1 ^ Camshaft brarlng cap retaining boKs
(arrowed)
20 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
camshaft lotjes 5 and 8 are once again pointing
upward. Adjust No 5 and No 8 vaive clearances
as described in paragraphs 13 to 19.
21 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
camshaft lobes 4 and 7 are once again pointing
upwanJ. Adjust No 4 and No 7 valve clearances
as described in paragraphs 13 to 19.
22 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
camshaft lobes 2 and 3 are once again pointing
upward. Adjust No 2 and No 3 valve clearances
as desoritied in paragraphs 13 to 19.
23 On completion, refit the camshaft cover
as described in Section 5, Refit the roadwheel
and engine undertray, then lower the car to
the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the
specified torque.
11 C a m s h a f t a n d f o l l o w e r s removal, inspection
and refitting
3^
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
2 Removethecamshaftsprocketasdescribed
in Section 8.
3 Remove the camshaft cover as described in
Section 5.
4 Remove the braking system vacuum pump
as described in Chapter 9.
5 Check for identification markings on the
camshaft bearing caps. If no mannings can be
seen, make suitable identification marks on
the caps, to indicate Iheir number and which
way round they are fitted,
6 Working in a spiral pattern from the outside
11.7 Carefuify release the oil pipe (anowed)
from Its location In the cylinder head
inwards, slacken the twelve camshaft tiearing
cap retaining bolts by half a turn at a time, to
relieve the pressure of the valve springs on
the bearing caps gradually and evenly (see
illustration). Once the valve spring pressure
has been relieved, the bolts can be fully
d and
Caution: If the bearing cap bolts are
careiessfy slackened, the bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assemMf
must be renewed; the bearing caps arm
matched to the head and are not available
separately.
7 Carefully release the oil supply pipe from its
location in the cylinder head, then lift the pipe
oft the bearing caps (see illustration),
8 Remove the bearing caps, then lift the
camshaft out of the cylinder head and slide off
the oil seal,
9 Obtain eight small, clean plastic containers,
and label them for identification. Alternatively;
divide a larger container into compartments.
Lift the followers and shims out from the top
of the cylinder head and store each one in
its respective fitted position. Make sure the
followers and shims are not mixed up, to
ensure the valve ciearances remain correct on
refitting.
Inspection
10 Examine the camshaft bearing surtaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine thecondltion
ot the bearing surtaces both on the camshaft
journals and in the cyiinder head. If the head
bearing surfaces are worn excessively, the
cylinder head will need to be renewed,
11 Check the camshaft followers and their
bores in the cyiinder head for signs of wear or
damage. If any follower is thought to be faulty
or is visibly worn it should be renewed.
Refitting
12 Commence refitting by turning the
crankshaft anti-clockwise by 90°. This will
position all the pistons half-way down their
bores, and prevent any chance of the valves
touching the piston crowns as the camshaft is
being fitted,
13 Lubricate the camshaft followers with
clean engine oil and carefully insert each
one (together with its adjusting shim) into its
original location in the cylinder head.
14 Lubricate the camshaft follower shims,
and the bearing journals with clean engine oil,
then lay Ihe camshaft in position.
15 Apply a smear of sealant to the mating
surfaces of both the Mo 1 and No 5 camshaft
bearing caps. Using the marks made on
removai as a guide, refit the camshaft bearing
caps in their original locations on the cylinder
head.
16 Carefully engage the oil supply pipe into
its location in the cylinder head, then place
the pipe in position on the bearing caps,
17 Refit the bearing cap retaining bolts and
tighten them by hand until they just contact
the bearing caps,
18 Working in a spiral pattern from the centre
outwards, tighten the bolts by half a tjrn at a
time to gradually impose the pressure of the
valve springs on the bearing caps. Repeat this
sequence until all bearing caps are in contact
with the cylinder head then go around and
tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts to the
specified tongue.
Caution: If the beanng cap bolts are
carelessly tightened, the bearing caps
might break. If any bearing cap breaks
then the complete cylinder head assembly
must be renewed; the bearing caps are
matched to the head and are not available
separately.
19 Fit a new camshah oil seal as described in
Section 9.
20 Refit the braiding system vacuum pump as
descritjed in Chapter 9,
21 Refit the camshaft cover as descnbed in
Section 5.
22 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section 8, Rotate the camshaft until the mark on
the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the pointer
on the camshaft cover (see Section 3).
23 Turn the crankshaft clockwise by 90° to
bring No 1 and 4 pistons to approximately the
TDC posltion24 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
25 If any new components have been fitted.
12 Cylinder h e a d removal and refitting
Note: New cylinder head bolts wili be required
on refitting.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
3 Remove the timing beh as described in
Section 7,
4 Disconnect the wiring harness connectors
from the following components with reference
to the Chapters indicated:
aj Coolant temperature sensor (Chapter 3).
bl Fuel pressure sensor (Chapter 4B).
c) Fuel pressure regulating valve (Chapter 4Bj.
d) Throttle housing (Chapter 4B).
e) Fuel injectors (Chapter 4B).
f) Air conditioning compressor (Chapter 3).
gl EGR valve (Chapter 4C).
h) Charge (boost) pressure sensor (Chapter 4B).
1) High-pressure fuel pump (Chapter 4B).
j) Camshaft sensor (Chapter 4B).
6 Undo the wiring harness support bracket
bolts, release the retaining clips and move the
harness to one side (see illustration).
6 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described in Chapter 48.
7 Remove the camshaft cover as descritjed in
Section 5,
8 Remove the braking system vacuum pump
as described in Chapter 9,
9 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected,
10 Worthing in the reverse of the tightening
sequence (see i l l u s t r a t i o n 12.28),
progressively slacken the cylinder head tiolts
by half a tum at a time, until all bolts can be
unscrewed by hand. Note that an M14 RIBE
socket bit will be required to unscrew the
bolts. Remove the cylinder head bolts and
recover the washers,
11 Engage the help of an assistant and lift the
cylinder head from the cylinder block. Take
care as it is a bulky and heavy assembly
Caution: Do not lay the head on its lower
mating surface; support the head on
wooden blocks, ensuring each block only
contacts the head mating surface,
12 Remove the gasket and keep it for
Identification purposes (see paragraph 19].
13 if the oyiinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, then refer to Part E of this C h ^ e r
Preparation
for
refitting
14 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastk:
or wood scraper to remove all traces ot gasket
and cariX)n; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care, as the surtaces are damaged
easily. Also, make sure that the cartxin is not
allowed to enter the oil and water passages this is particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply to
any ofthe engine's components. Using adhesive
tape and paper seal the water oil and bolt holes
in the oyiinder block/crankcase. To prevent
carbon entering the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little grease in the gap.
After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to
remove all traces of grease and carbon from the
gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean
rag. Clean all Ihe pistons in the same way.
15 Check the mating surtaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal.
16 Ensure that the cylinder head bolt holes
in the crankcase are clean and free of oil.
Syringe or soak up any oil left In the bolt holes.
This is most important in onier that the conect
bolt tightening torque can be applied and
to prevent the possibility of the biock being
cracked by hydraulic pressure when the bolts
are tightened.
17 T>ie cylinder head bolts must be discarded
and renewed, regardless of their apparent
condition.
12.5 Undo the support bracket bolts
(arrowed), release the retaining d i p s and
move the wiring harness to one skJe
18 If warpage of the cyiinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part E of this
Chapter if necessary.
19 On this engine, the cylinder head-topiston clearance is controlled by fitting
different thickness head gaskets. The gasket
thickness can be detemiined by looking at the
holes stamped on the edge of the gasket (see
illustration).
Number of holes
Gasket thickness
No holes
0.77 to 0-87 n
One hole
0.87 to 0.97 n
Two holes
0.97 to 1,07 n
The correct thickness of gasket required is
selected by measuring the piston pnstmsions
as follows.
20 Mount a dial test indicator securely on the
block so that its pointer can be easily pivoted
between the piston crown and block mating
surface. Turn the crankshaft to bring No 1 piston
roughly to the TDC position. Move the dial test
indicator pnobe over and in contact with No 1
piston. Turn the crankshaft back and forth
slightly until the highest readir>g is showm on the
gauge, indicating that the piston is at T l X .
21 Zero the dial test indicator on the gasket
surface of the cylinder block then carefully
move the indicator over No 1 piston. Measure
its protrusion at the highest point between the
valve cut-outs, and then again at its highest
point between fhe vaive cut-outs at 90° to the
first measurement (see Illustration). Repeat
this procedure with No 4 piston,
22 Rotate the crankshaft half a turn (180°)
to bring No 2 and 3 pistons to TDC- Ensure
12,19 Cylinder head gasket thickness
identification hole (arrowed)
13 S u m p removal and refitting
12.21 Using a dial test indicator to
measure piston protrusion
the crankstiaft is accurately positioned then
measure the protmsions of No 2 and 3 pistons
at the specified points. Once all pistons have
been measured, rotate the crankshaft to
position all the pistons at their mid-strc>ke.
23 Select the correct thickness of head
gasket required by determining the largest
amount of piston protrusion, and using the
following table.
Piston protmslon Gasket thickness
im) required (mm)
0.020 to 0.100
0.77 to 0.87 (no holes)
0.101 too 200
0.87 to 0.97 (one hole)
0.201 to 0.Z95
0.97 to 1.07 (two holes)
Rentting
24 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Place the new gasket in position with the wonjs
ALTO/TOP uppermost (see illustration).
25 If not already done, rotate the crankshaft
to position all the pistons at their mid-stnake.
26 With the aid of an assistant, carefully
rem the cylinder head assembly to the block,
aligning it with the locating dowels,
27 Apply a thin film of engine oil to the boH
threads and the underside of the bolt heads.
Carefully enter each new cylinder head
bolt into its relevant hole (do not drop them
in). Screw all bolts in. by hand only, until
finger-tight.
12.24 Place the new gasket In position
with the words ALTO/TOP uppermost
28 Working progressively in the sequence
shown, tighten the cylinder head bolts to their
Stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench
and suitable socket (see illustration). Working
again in the same sequence, go around and
tighten all bolts through the specified Stage 2
torque setting.
29 Once all bolts have been tightened to the
Stage 2 tonque, working again in the same
sequence, go around and tighten all bolts
through the specified Stage 3 angle, then
through the specified Stage 4 angle, and finally
through the specified Stage 5 angle using an
angle-measuring gauge.
30 Refit the braking system vacuum pump as
described in Chapter 9.
31 Refit the camshaft cover as described in
Section 5.
32 Refit the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described in C h ^ t e r 4 B .
33 Reconnect the wiring harness connectors
to the components listed in paragraph 4, then
refit the wiring harness support bracket bolts,
and secure the harness with the retaining
clips.
34 Refit the timing belt as described In
Section 7.
35 On completion, reconnect tbe battery
negative terminal, then refill the cooling
system as described in Chapter 1B.
12.28 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecf/ng the battery m the
Reference Chapter).
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel, then undo the
ten bolts and remove the engine undertray
3 Remove fhe right-hand driveshaft and fhe
intermediate shaft as described in Chapter 8.
4 Undo the three bolts securing the
Intermediate shaft bearing housing support
bracket to the cylinder block and remove the
support bracket (see illustraticm).
5 Remove the exhaust system a
in Chapter 4B.
6 Undo the three bolts and remove the
support bracket from the catalytic converter
and sump.
7 Remove the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 6.
8 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
air conditioning compressor. Undo the three
bolts securing the air conditioning compressor
to the mounting bracket and suitably support
the compressor on the front subframe.
9 Undo the four bolts securing the
compressor mounting bracket to the cylinder
block and sump (see illustration}. Unclip
the wiring harness and remove the mounting
bracket.
10 Drain the engine oil as described In
Chapter I B . When the oil has completely
drained, refit the drain plug with new sealing
washer, and tighten to the specified tongue.
11 Undo the upper bolt securing the oil
dipstick guide tube to the coolant pipe. Undo
the lower boH securing the guide tube to tho
sump flange, then unclip the wiring fiarnesa
13.4 intermediate shaft bearing housing support bracket retaining!
bolls (anvwed)
and withdraw the tube from the sump flange
sealing grommet.
12 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
oil level sensor, then release the retaining clip
and disconnect the oil return hose.
13 Undo the two bolts securing the sump
flange to the transmission bellhousing.
14 Using a socket and extension on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft
in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise
when viewed from the right-hand end ol the
engine) until the opening in the flywheel is
positioned to ailow access to one of the rear
sump retaining bolts. Undo and remove the
bolt, then rotate the crankshaft again until
the flywheel allow access to the second rear
retaining bolt. Undo and remove the bolt.
15 Progressively slacken and remove the
remaining twelve bolts secunng the sump to
the base of the cylinder block and oil pump
housing. Using a wide-bladed scraper or
similar tool Inserted between the sump and
cylinder block, carefully break the joint to
release the sump.
16 Manoeuvre the sump out from under the
car Clearance is extremely limited between
the sump and subframe, and it may be
necessary to release the oil pump picK-up/
strainer, by undoing its two retaining bolts, to
enable the sump to be removed.
17 If required, undo the retaining bolts and
remove the oil baffle plate fnsm inside the
sump (see Illustration).
18 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to check the oil pump pick-up/
strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If not
already done, unbolt the oil pump pick-up/
strainer and remove it from the engine along
with its sealing ring. The strainer can then be
cleaned easily In solvent or renewed. Renew
the pick-up/strainer sealing ring prior to
refitting (see Illustration).
13.17 Removing the oil baffle plate from
inside the sump
13.18 Renew the pick-up/strainer sealing
ring prior to refitting
If it was necessary to unbolt the pick-up/
strainer to allow the sump to be removed,
place the unit in position and loosely screw in
the boit secuhng it to the main bearing cap.
It must still be possible for the fonward end ol
the pipe to be moved to the rear as the sump
is refitted.
21 Apply a continuous bead of silicone sealing
compound (available fn^m your Vauxhall/Opel
dealer) al approximately 1.0 mm from the inner
edge of the sump (see illustration). The bead
of sealant should be between 2.0 and 2.5 mm
in diameter
22 Locate the sump over the pick-up/strainer
then, where applicable, fit the fonward end ot
the pick-up/strainer to the oil pump housing
and fit the retaining bolt. Tighten both retaining
bolts securely.
23 Engage the sump with the cylinder block
and loosely refit all the retaining bolts.
24 Working out fn^m the centre in a diagonal
sequence, progressively tighten the bolts
securing the sump to the cylinder block and
oil pump housing. Tighten all the bolts to their
specified torque setting,
25 Tighten the two t>olts securing the sump
flange lo the transmission bellhousing to their
specified torque settings,
26 Reconnect the wiring connector to the oil
level sensor, then refit the oil return hose and
secure with the retaining clip.
27 Refil the oil dipstick guide tube and secure
with Ihe two bolts tightened securely
28 Locate the air conditioning compressor
mounting bracket m position and refit the
four retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to the
specifled tongue. Clip the wiring harness back
into position on the tnacket.
29 Position the air conditioning compressor
on the mounting bracket. Fit and tighten
the three retaining bolls to the specifled
torque (see Chapter 3), then reconnect Ihe
compressor wiring connector
30 Refit the crankshaft pulley/vibration
damper as described in Section 6.
31 Reflt the catalytic converter support
bracket and securely tighten the three bolts,
32 Refit the exhaust system as described in
Chapter 4B,
33 Position the intermediate shaft bearing
housing support bracket on the cylinder block
and secure with the three retaining bolts
tightened to the specified torque,
34 Refit the intermediate shaft and right-hand
driveshaft as described in Chapter 6.
35 Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray,
then lower the car to Ihe ground and tighten
the wheel bolts to the specified tcrciue,
36 Fill the engine with fresh engine oil as
described in Chapter 1B,
37 On completion, reconnect the battery
terminal.
Refitting
19 Thoroughly clean the sump and remove
all traces of silicone sealer and oil from the
mating surfaces of the sump and cylinder
block- If removed, refit the oil baffle plate and
tighten its retaining bolts securely.
20 if clearance allows, refit the oil pump
pick-up/strainer using a new sealing ring,
and tighten Its two retaining bolts securely.
14 ON p u m p removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7,
2 Remove the crankshaft sprocket as
described In Section 8,
3 Remove Ihe sump and oil pump pick-up/
strainer as described in Section 13,
4 Slacken and remove the seven retaining
bolts then slide the oil pump housing
assembly off of the end of the crankshaft (see
Illustration), Remove the housing gasket and
discard it.
Overfiaul
13.21 Apply a continuous bead of Silicone
sealing compound to the sump flange
5 Undo the tetaining screws and lift off the
pump cover from the rear of the housing (see
illustration),
6 Check the inner and outer rotors for
identification dots indicating which way round
they are fitted (see Illustration), If no marks
are visible, use a suitable marker pen to mark
the surface of both the pump inner and outer
rotors.
7 Lift out the inner and outer rotors from the
pump housing.
8 Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve bolt
from the base of the housing and withdraw
the spring and plunger, noting which way
anound the plunger is fitted (see illustrations).
Remove the sealing washer from the vaive
bolt.
9 Clean the components, and carefully
examine the rotors, pump body and relief
valve plunger for any signs of scoring or
wear, tt any damage or wear is noticed, it will
be necessary lo renew the complete pump
assembly
10 If the pump is satisfactory, reassemble the
imponents in the reverse onder of i
noting the followina.
aJ ensure both rotors are filled (fie correct
way around,
b) Fit a new sealing ring to the pressure
relief valve bolt and securely tighten the
bolt.
cj Apply a little locking compound to the
threads, and securely tighten the pump
is flush with the housing and lubricate the oil
seal lip with clean engine oil.
12 Ensure the mating surfaces of the oil
pump and cylinder block are clean and dry.
13 Fit a new gasket to the oil pump housing
and bend down the tabs on the edge of the
gasket to retain it on the pump housing (see
d) On completion prime the oil pump by
filling it with clean engine oil whilst
rotating the inner rotor (see illustration).
14 Locate the pump housing over the end
of the crankshaft and into position on the
cylinder block.
15 Refit the pump housing retaining bolts and
tighten them to the specified tonnue.
16 Refit the oil pump pick-up/strainer and
sump as described in Section 13,
17 Relit the crankshaft sprocket as described
in Section 8.
18 Refit the timing belt as described In
Section 7,
19 On completion, fit a new oil filter and
fill the engine with clean oil as described in
Chapter 1B.
Refitting
11 Prior to refitting, carefully lever out
the crankshaft oil seal using a flat-biaded
screwdriver Fit the new oil seal, ensuring
its sealing iip is facing inwards, and press it
squarely into the housino using a tubular drift
which bears only on the hard outer edge of
the seal. Press the seal into position so that it
15 Oif filter h o u s i n g removal and refitting
.
gS-,
Removal
14.10 Pnme the oil pump by filling it with
clean engine oil whilst rotating the inner
rotor
14.13 Bend down the tabs on the edge
of the gasket to retain il on the oil pump
housing
1 The oil filter housing with integral oil cooler
is located at the rear of the cylinder block,
above the right-hand dnveshaft.
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
15.10 Oil filter tiousing rataining bolts (arrawed)
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel, then undo the
ten bolts and remove the engine undertray.
4 Drain the cooling systen
5 Remove the engine oil filter element as
described in Chapter IB.
6 Remove the right-hand driveshaft and the
intennediate shaft as described in Chapter 8.
7 Undo the three bolts securing the
intermediate shaft bearing housing support
brac*et to the cylinder block and r ^ o v e the
support bracket (see illustration 13.4).
8 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
oil pressure switch.
d Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the two coolant hoses from the oil cooler on
the oil filter housing.
10 Undo the three retaining bolts and remove
the oil filter housing from the cylinder block
(see Illustration). Recover the two rubber
seals from the rear of the housing. Note that
new seais will be required for refitting.
RefiWng
11 •Hioroughly clean tbe oil filter housing,
then fit the two new sealing rings (see
illustrations).
12 Position the oil filter housing on the
cylinder block and refit the retaining bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
13 Refit the two coolant hoses and secure
with their retaining clips. Reconnect the oil
pressure switch wiring connector
14 Position the intermediate shaft bearing
housing support bracket on the cylinder block
and secure with the three retaining bolts
tightened to the specified torque.
15 Refit the intermediate shaft and right-hand
driveshaft as described In Chapter 8.
16 Fit a new oil filter element as described in
Chapter 16.
17 Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray,
then lower the oar to the ground and tighten
the wheel bolts to the specified tonque.
sealing ring to the oil filter housing supply
channel...
18 Refill the cooling system
Chapter IB.
19 Check, and if necessary, top-up the
engine oil as described in Weekly checks.
20 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal.
16 Crankshaft oit seals renewal
Right-hand
(timing
belt
end)
1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket as
described in Section 8.
2 Carefijlly punch or drill a small hole in the
oil seal. Screw in a self-tapping screw and pull
on the screw with pliers to extract the seal
(see illustration).
3 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
buns or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Ease the new oil seal into position on the
end of the crankshaft. Press the seal squarely
into poslflon until it is flush with the housing.
If necessary, a suitable tubular drift which
bears only on the hand outer edge of the seal
can be used to tap the seal Into position (see
illustration). Take great care not to damage
16.2 Screw in a self-tapping screw and
pull on the screw with pliers to extract the
15.11b . . . a n d t o f h e n
the seal lips during fitting and ensure that the
seal lips face inwands.
5 Wash off any traces of oil, tfien refit the
crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 8
Left-hand
{flywheel
end)
6 Remove the flywheel as described in
Section 17.
7 Remove the sump as described In Section 13.
8 Undo the five bolts and remove the oil seal
housing. Note that the oil seal and the housing
are a single assembly
9 Clean the crankshaft and polish off any
'
15.4 Using a socket as a tubular drift fo fit
positioning dowel on the crankshaft. Apply a
drop of locking compound to the threads of
each new flywheel retaining bolt (unless they are
already precoated) and install the new tolts,
7 Lock the flywheel by the method used on
removal then, working in a diagonal sequence,
evenly and progressively tighten the retaining
bolts to the specified torque,
8 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6
then remove the locking tool, and refit the
i described in Chapter 7A,
• f
16.10 Frtb'ng the new oil seal housing, wtth
integral oli seal, over the cranitshaft
burrs or raised edges whicii may have caused
the seal to fail in the first piace.
10 Position the new oil seal housing, complete
with seal, over the crankshaft and into position
on the cyiinder biock {see illustration). Note
that the new oil seal housing is supplied with
a protector sleeve over the oil seal. Leave the
Sleeve in position as the housing is fitted,
11 Refit the five retaining bolts and tighten to
the specified torque,
12 Remove the protector sleeve from the
housing (see illustration).
13 Refit the sump as described in Section 13.
14 Refit the flywheel as described in Section 17,
16.12 After fitting, remove the protector
sleeve from the housing
17 Fiywheel removal, inspection
and refitting
^
3 i
«
Note: A/eiv flywheel retaining bolts wili be
required on refitting.
Removal
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly
as described in Chapter 6,
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement
to that shown (see illustration),
3 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel (see illustration). Do not
drop it. as it is very heavy.
Inspection
4 it there is any doubt about the condition of
the fiywheel, seek the advice ot a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. They will be able to advise if it is
possible to recondition it or whether renewal
is necessary.
Refitting
17.2 Prevent the flywheel Irom turning by
locking the ring gear teeth
5 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft.
6 Offer up the fiywheel and engage it over the
18 E n g i n e / t r a n s m i s s i o n
mountings inspection and renewal
Inspection
1 if improved access is required, firmly apply
the handbrake, then jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible,
4 Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar, check
for wear in the mounting by carefully levering
against it to check for free play; where this
is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant
to move the engine/transmission unit backand-forth, or from side-to-side, while you
watch the mounting. W/hile some free play Is
to be expected even ftom new components,
excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive
free play is found, check first that the fasteners
are correctly secured, then renew any worn
components as described bieiow.
Renewal
Note; Before slackening any of the engine
mounting tiolts/nuts. the relative positions of
18.6 From mounting/tortiue link through-twit (A) and mounting
bracket-to-transmiasion bolts (B)
18.22b . . . and mounbng-to-bady retaining
bolts W and nut (B)
18.28 Left-hand mounting bracket-totransmission bracket retaining boKs
(arrowed)
18.29 Lett-hand mounting-to-body
retaining bolts (arrowed) - shown with
engine/transmission removed
the mountings to their various brackets should
be marked to ensure correct alignment upon
refitting.
Front m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
mounting bracket to the transmission and
the through-bolt secuhng the mounting to the
bracket (see illustration).
15 Undo the nuts and remove the two bolts
secunng the mounting to the subframe (see
illustration). Manoeuvre the mounting and
bracket out from under the car.
16 Refit the bracket to the transmission and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
17 Locate the new mounting in position.
Insert the bolts and tighten the bolt/nuts to the
specified torque.
18 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
and refit the two bolts and the nut securing
the mounting to the tx)dy. Tighten the bolts/
nut to the specified torque. Align the mounting
in its original position, then tighten the three
mounting bracket bolts to the specified torque.
24 Remove the support jack, then refit the air
cleaner as described in Chapter 4B25 On completion, lower the vehicle to fhe
ground.
5 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
Ot the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
mounting to the subframe bracket. Withdraw
the through-bolt (see illustration).
7 Undo the bolts secuhng the mounting
bracket to the transmission, then manoeuvre
the mounting and bracket out of position.
8 Check all components for signs of wear or
damage, and renew as necessary,
9 Locate the mounting in the subframe, refit
the through-bolt and nut, then tighten the nut
finger-tight al this stage.
10 Refit the mounting bracket to the transmission and tighten its bolts to the specified
tonque,
11 Tighten the through-bolt nut to the
specified torque.
12 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Rear m o u n t i n g / t o r q u e link
13 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and rehic/e support).
14 Undo the three bolts securing the
Rigtit-hand m o u n t i n g
19 Apply the handbrai^e, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
20 Remove the air cleaner as descnbed in
Chapter 48.
21 Place a trolley jack beneath the right-hand
end of the engine with a block of wood on the
jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting
the weight of the engine.
22 Mark the position of the three bolts
securing the mounting bracket to the engine
bracket and undo the bolts. Undo the two
bolts and one nut securing the mounting to
the body and remove the mounting assembly
(see illustrations).
23 Place the mounting assembly in position
Left-hand m o u n t i n g
26 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
27 Place a trolley jack beneath the transmission with a block of wood on the jack
head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the
weight of the engine/transmission unit.
28 Using a Torx socket, unscrew the three
bolts securing the mounting bracket to the
transmission bracket (see Illustration).
29 Undo the four bolts securing the mounting
to the body and the three bolts secuhng the
transmission bracket to the transmission (see
illustration). Remove the mounting assembly
from the car
30 Locate the mounting brackets in position
then insert the bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque,
31 Remove the support jack from under the
transmission.
32 Refit Ihe battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A,
Chapter 2 Part D:
1.9 litre DOHC diesel engine
in-car repair procedures
Contents
Section number
Camshafts-removal, inspection and refitting
10
Camshaft followers and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and
refitting
11
Camshaft housing - removal and refitting
9
Camshaft oil seal - renewal
8
Compression and leakdown tests - description and Interpretation.. 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal
16
Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper-removal and refitting
5
Cylinder head-removal and refitting
12
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and
renewal
18
Section number
Flywheei/drivepiate - removai, inspection and refitting
General information
Oil filter housing - removal and refitting
Oil pump - removal, overhaul and
refitting
Sump - removal and refitting
Timing belt - removal and refitting
Timing belt spnockets, tensioner and idler pulley - removal and
refitting
Top dead centre CTDC) for No 1 piston - locating
Valve timing - checking and adiustment
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fakfyciflicul^
|
suitable for comp^ent ;^
DIY mechanic
3
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
!
suitable for expen ;
DIY or prc.fessional •
Specifications
General
Engine type
Four-cylinder, In-line, water-cooled. Double overhead camshaft,
belt-driven
Manufacturer's engine code*
Zl 9DTH
Bore
82.0 mm
Stroke
90.4 mm
Capacity
1910cc
Compression ratio
17.5:1
Rringorder
1-3-4-2(No1 cylinder at timing belt end of aigine)
Direction of crankshaft rotation
Clockwise (vievred from timing belt end of engine)
• For details of engine code location, see Veh/c/e identification' in the Reference Chapter.
Compression pressures
Maximum difference between any two cylinders
1.5 tiar
Lubrication s y s t e m
fcitimum oil pressure ^iaO°C
Oipunptype
1.0 bar at klle speed
Rotor-^.thtvenbycrantehaftpul^AribrationdaR^ftom
17
1
15
14
13
6
7
3
4
Torque wrench settings
Air condrtioning compressor mounting tjracket to cylinder block/sump .
Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley bolt
Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner assembly bolts
Camshaft drivegear bolts
Camstiaft (lousing closure bolts
Camshaft sprocket boltConnecting rod big-end bearing cap bolt:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Crankshaft oil seal housing
Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper bolts
Crankshaft sprocket bolt't
Cylinder head bolts:'
Stage 1 . . . .
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Stage 5
Engine mountings:
Front mounting/torque link:
Mounting to transmission
Mounting to subframe
Left-hand mounting:
Mounting-to-body bolts
Mounting bracket to transmission bracket
Transmission bracket to transmission
Rear mounting/torque link:
Mounting bracket to trmismlsslon
Mounting to subframe
Mounting to transmission bracket
Right-hand mounting;
Engine bracket-to-engine bolts;
Lower bolts (M8)
Upper bolts (M10)
Mounting-to-body bolts/nut
Mounting-to-engine bracket bolts
Engine-to-transmission unit bolts;
Ml 0 bolts
M12 bolls
Flywheei/drivepiate bolts*
High-pressure fuel pump sprocket nut*
Intennediate shaft beanng housing support bracket bolts
Main bearing cap bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Oil fitter housing to cylinder block
Oil pump housing to cylinder block
Oil pump pick-up/strainer bolts
Roadwheel bolts
Sump bolts;
M6 bolts
M8bolts
M10 bolts
Sump drain plug
Timing belt idler pulley bolt
Timing belt tensioner bolt
Timing belt upper cover bolts:
M6 bolts
M8 boils
' Use new nuts/bolts
t Left-hand thread
Nm
50
50
50
120
16
120
ibfft
37
37
37
89
12
89
25
Angle-tighten a further 60°
9
25
3^0
7
18
251
18
20
65
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 90°
""^
48
80
80
58
58
20
55
55
15
41
41
80
60
80
59
44
59
25
50
55
55
18
37
41
41
40
60
160
50
55
30
44
118
37
41
25
/\ngle-tighten a further 100°
50
9
9
110
18
37
7
7
81
9
25
40
20
50
30
7
18
30
15
37
22
9
25
7
18
: 1
Genera! i n f o r m a t i o n
i l o i v to u s e this
Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 describes the
repair procedures which can reasonably be
carried out on the engine while it remains in
the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
fnDm the vehicle and is being dismantled as
described In Chapter 2E, any preliminary
dismantling procedures can be ignored.
Note that, while it mav be oossible
physically to overhaul items such as the
piston/connecting rod assemblies while the
engine is in the vehicle, such tasks are not
usually carried out as separate operations,
and usually require the execution of several
additional procedures (not to mention the
cleaning of components and of oilways); for
this reason, all such tasks are classed as
major overhaul procedures, and are described
in Chapter 2E.
Chapter 2E describes the removal of the
engine/transmission unit from the vehicle, and
the full overtiaul pnDcedures which can then
be carried out.
Engine
description
The 1.9 litre DOHC diesel engine is of fhe
sixteen-valve, in-line four-cylinder, double
overhead camshafttype, mounted transversely
at the front of the car, with the transmission on
its left-hand end.
The crankshaft Is supported within the
cylinder block on five shell-t^e main bearings.
Thrustwashers are fitted to number 3 main
bearing, to control crankshaft endfioat.
The connecting rods rotate on horizontallysplit bearing shells at their big-ends. The
pistons are attached to the connecting rods by
gudgeon pins, which are retained by cirolips.
TTie aluminium-alloy pistons are fitted with
three piston rings - two compression rings
and scraper-type oil contnsl ring.
The camshafts are situated in a separate
housing bolted to the top of the cylinder
head. The exhaust camshaft is driven by the
crankshaft via a toothed composite rubber
timing belt (which also drives the high-pressure
fuel pump and the coolant pump). The exhaust
camshaft drives the inlet camshaft via a spur
gear. Each cylinder has four valves (two inlet
and two exhaust), operated via followers which
are supported at their pivot ends by hydraulic
self-adjusting tappets. One camshaft operates
the inlet valves, and the other operates the
exhaust valves.
The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by a single valve spring, and operate In
guides pressed into the cylinder head.
Lubrication is by pressure-feed from a
rotor-type oi! pump, which is mounted on the
right-hand end of the crankshaft. The pump
draws oil through a strainer located In the
sump, and then forces it through an externally
mounted full-fiow cartridge-type filter. The
oil flows into galleries in the cylinder block/
crankcase, from where it Is distributed to the
crankshaft (main bearings) and camshafts.
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via
internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the
camshaft bearings also receive a pressurised
supply. The camshaft lobes and valves are
lubricated by splash, as are all other engine
components.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed; crankcase fumes are drawn
from the oil separator attached to the cylinder
block via a hose to the camshaft housing. The
fumes are then passed via a hose to the inlet
manifold.
Operations
with
engine
in
car
The following operations can be carried out
wfthout having to remove the engine from the
a) Removal and refitting of the cylinder
head.
b) Removal and refitting of the timing belt,
tensioner, idler pulleys and sprockets.
c) Renewal of (he camshaft oil sea/.
d) Removai and refitting of the oam^ft
housing.
e) Removal and refitting of the camshafts
and followers.
f) Removal and refitting of the sump.
g) Removai and refitting ofthe connecting
rods and pistons.'
h) Removai and refitting of the oil pump.
i) Removal and refitting of the oil filter
housing.
i) Renewal of tiie crankshaft oil seals,
k) Renewal ofthe engine mountings.
I) Removal and refitting of the fiywheel/
" Although the operation marked with an
asterisk can be carried out with the engine
in the oar (after removal of the sump), it is
preferable for (he engine to be removed, in the
interests of cleanliness and improved access.
For this reason, the procedure is desciibed in
Chapter ZE.
2
Compression and
leakdown t e s t s descripiion and interprefation
provide diagnostic clues as to the engine's
condition. If the test is performed regularly. It
can give warning of trouble before any other
symptoms t>©come apparent.
2 The tester is connected to an adapter
which screws Into the glow plug holes. It
is unlikely to be worthwhile buying such
a tester for occasional use, but ft may
be possible to borrow or hire one - if not,
have the test perfonned by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer, or suitably-equipped garage. If the
necessary equipment is available, proceed
as follows.
3 Remove the glow plugs as described
in Chapter 5A, then disconnect the wiring
connector from the fuel pressure regulating
valve on the fuel rail (see Chapter 4B) to
prevent Ihe engine from running or fuel from
being discharged.
4 Screw the compression tester adapter in to
the glow plug hole of No 1 cylinder.
5 With the help of an assistant, crank the
engine on the starter motor; after one or
two revolutions, the compression pressure
should bulld-up to a maximum figure, and
then stabilise. Record the highest reading
obtained.
6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure in each.
7 All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; any difference greater than the
maximum figure given in the Specifications
indicates the existence of a fault. Note that
the compression should build-up quickly in
a healthy engine; low compression on the
first stroke, followed by gradually-in creasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which does not build-up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked
head could also be the cause). Note: Tfie
cause of poor compression is less easy to
establish on a diesel engine than on a f>etrol
one. The effect of introducing oil into the
cylinders ('wet' testing) Is not conclusive,
because there is a risk that the oil will sit in
the recess on the piston crown instead of
passing to the rings.
S On completion of the test refit the glow
plugs as described in Chapter 5A, and
reconnect the wiring connector to the fuel
pressure regulating valve.
Le
Compression
test
Note 1: A compression tester specifically
deigned for diesel engines must be used for
this test.
Note 2: TTie battery must be in a good state
of charge, the air filter must be clean, and
the engine should be at normal operating
temfierature.
1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed
to the fuel system, a compression test can
'own
test
9 A leakdown test measures the rate at which
compressed air fed into the cylinder is lost. It
is an alternative to a compression test, and in
many ways it is better, since the escaping air
provides easy identification of where pressure
loss is occurring (piston rings, valves or head
gasket).
10 The equipment needed for leakdown
testing Is unlikely to be available to the home
mechanic. If poor compression is suspected,
have the test perfonned by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer, or suitably-equipped garage.
!I
mm
3.0a Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-4678B
{or equivalent) Is required to set the TDC
position for No 1 piston . . .
3
Top d e a d c e n b e
fTDC) for No 1 p i s t o n locating
^
^
Note; To accurately determine the TDC
position tor No I piston, it will be necessary
to use Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46 788
(or suitable equivalent) to set the crankshaft at
the TDC position, together with the camshaft
positioning tool, Vauxhall/Opel special tool
EN-46789 (or suitable equivalent) (see
illustrations)1 In its travel up and down its cylinder tiore,
Top Dead Centre (TDC) Is the highest point
that each piston reaches as the crankshaft
rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both
at the top ot the compression strole retaining nut and bolte
(arrowed) and remove the right-hand
engine mounting
3.9 Engine br«athsr pipe retaining bolts
3.10 Undo the bolt (arrowed] and release
the engine oil dipstick guide tube Irom the
coolant pipe
3.11 Unscrew the closure tKilt from the
valve timing checking hole in the camshaft
housing
3.5 Undo the centrât mounting bolt
(anrowed), and remove the auxiliary
drivet)elt tensioner assembly
jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting
the weight of the engine.
8 Mark the bolt positions for correct refitting,
then undo the three bolts securing the
right-hand engine mounting to the engine
bracket, and the two bolts and one nut
securing the mounting to the body. Remove
the mounting (see Illustration).
9 Release the retaining clip securing the
engine breather hose to the breather pipe
adjacent to the engine oil dipstick. Undo the
two bolts securing the breather pipe to the
cylinder head, and disconnect the pipe from
the hose (see illustration).
10 Undo the bolt and release the engine oil
dipstick guide tube from the coolant pipe (see
Itlustratlon).
11 Unscrew the closure boft from the valve
timing checking hole in the camshaft housing
(see illustration).
12 Screw the camshaft positioning tool
(Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46789) into the
valve timing checking hole,
13 Using a socket and extension bar on the
crankshaft sprocket twit, rotate the crankshaft
in the normal direction of rotation until the
spring-loaded plunger of the positioning tool
slides into engagement with the slot in the
camshaft. There will be an audible click from
the tool when this happens.
14 Unscrew the bolt from the lower left-hand
side of the oH pump housing and screw in the
fastening stud of Vauxhall/Opel special tool
EN-46788 (see illustration).
15 Rt the positioning ring of tool EN-46788
over the fastening stud and engage It with the
3.14 Screw the fastening stud of special
tool EN-467B8 into the oil pump housing
crankshaft sprocket. Ensure that the hole in
ttie positioning ring engages with ttie lug on
the sprocket. Secure the tool in position with
the retaining bolt and nut (see illustration).
16 With the crankshaft positioning nng in
place and the camshaft positioning tool
engaged with the slot rn the camshaft, the
engine is positioned with No 1 piston at TDC
on compression.
Vatve t i m i n g checie to the coolant pipe and tighten the
bolt securely.
28 Attach the engine breather hose to the
breather pipe and secure with the retaining
clip. Secure the breather pipe to the cylinder
head with the two bolts securely tightened.
29 Refit the plastic cover to the top of the
engine.
30 Refit the roadwheel and engine undertray
then lower the oar to the ground and tighten
the wheel bolts to the specified torque.
7
T i m i n g belt s p r o c k e t s ,
tensioner a n d idler puiley removal and refitting
;K
Note: Certain special tools wiii be required
for the removal and refitting of the sproc/cets.
Read through the entire procedure to
familiarise yourself with the work involved,
then eittmr obtain the manufacturer's special
tools, or use the alternatives described.
Camshaft
sprocket
Note: A new sprocket retaining bolt will be
required for refitting.
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 6, then remove camshaft positioning
tool from the valve timing checking hole.
2 It will now be necessary to hold the
camshaft sprocket to enable the retaining bolt
to be removed. Vauxhall/Opel special tools
EN-46787 and KM-956-1 are available for
this purpose, however, a home-made tool can
easily be fabricated (see Tool Tip).
3 Engage the tool with the holes in the
camshaft sprocket, taking care not to damage
the camshaft sensor located behind the
sprocket
4 Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove the
sprocket fnam the end of the camshaft.
Refitting
5 Prior to refitting check the oil seal for signs
of damage or leakage. If necessary, renew as
described in Section 8,
6 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft end,
aligning its cut-out with the locating peg,
and fit the new retaining bolt tinger-tighi
only at this stage. Final tightening is earned
out after the timing belt has been fitted and
tensioned.
7 Refit the camshaft positioning tool to the
vaive timing checking hole. If necessary,
rotate the camshaft slightly, by means of the
sprocket, until the tool audibly engages.
8 Proceed with the timing belt refitting
procedure as described in Section 6,
paragraphs 9 to 14.
9 Retain the camshaft sprocket using the
holding tool, and tighten the retaining boH to
the specified torque.
10 Continue with the timing belt refitting
procedure as described In Section 6,
paragraphs 15 to 30.
Crankshaft
sprxtcket
Note 1: The crankshaft sprocket retaining
bolt is extremely tight. Ensure that the holding
tool used to prevent rotation as the bolt
is slackened is of sturdy construction and
securely attached.
Note 2: A new sprocket retaining bolt will be
required for refitting.
Removal
11 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 6,
12 It will now be necessary to hold the
crankshatt sprocket to enable the retaining
bolt to be removed. Vauxhail special tools
EN-47630 and KlVl-956-1 are available for this
purpose, however, a home-made tool similar
to that described in paragraph 2, can easily tte
fabricated.
13 Using the crankshaft pulley retaining tiolts,
securely attach the tool to the crankshaft
spmcket. With the help of an assistant, hold
the sprocket stationary and unscrew the
retaining bolt. Note: The sprocket retaining
7.14a Remove the bott and
To make a sprocket holding tool, obtain
two lengths of steel strip about 6 mm
thick by about 30 mm wide or similar,
one 600 mm long, the other 200 mm
long (all dimensions are approximate).
Bolt the two strips together to form a
forked end, leaving the bolt slack so
that the shorter strip can pivot freely.
At the other end of each 'prong' of the
fork, drill a suitable hole and fit a nut
and bolt to allow the tool to engage
with the spokes In the sprocket.
bolt has a left-hand thread and is unscrewed
by turning it clockwise.
14 Remove the bolt and washer and slide the
sprocket off the end of the crankshaft {see
Illustrations). Note that a new bolt will be
required for refitting.
Refitting
15 Align the sprocket locafion key with the
crankshaft groove and slide the sprocket
into position. Fit the new retaining bolt and
washer
16 Hold the sprocket stationary using the
holding tool and tighten the retaining boH to
the specified torque. Remove the holding
tool.
High-pressure
pump
spmcket
Note: A new sprocket retaining nut wM be
required for refitting.
Removal
7.20 Engage the holding tool witli the
holes in the fuel pump sprocket and undo
the retaining nut
7.21 Use a suitable puller to release the
fuel pump sprocket taper
however, a home-made tool similar to that
described in paragraph 2, can easily be
labricated.
20 Engage the tool with the holes in the
fuel pump sprocket and undo the sprocket
retaining nut (see Illustration). Note that a
new nut will be required for refitting.
21 Attach a suitable puller to the threaded
holes in the fuel pump sprocket using bolts
and washers similar to the arrangement shown
(see illustration),
22 Tighten the puller centre boll to release
the sprocket from the taper on the pump
shaft. Once the taper releases, remove the
puller and withdraw the sprocket. Collect
the Woodruff key from the pump shaft (see
illustrations).
Refitting
. . and collect the Woodruff key
from the pump shaft
19 It will now be necessary lo hold the fuel
pump sprocket to enable the retaining nut to
be removed. Vauxhall special tools KM-6347
and KM-956-1 are available for this purpose,
23 Clean the fuel pump shaft and the
sprocket hub ensuring that all traces of oil or
grease are removed.
24 Refrt the Woodnjff key to the pump shaft,
then locate the sprocket in position. Fit the
new retaining nut.
25 Hold the sprocket stationary using the
holding tool and tighten the retaining nut to
the specified torque. Remove the holding
tool,
26 Refit the timing belt as described in Sec-
Tensioner
assembly
Removal
27 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
28 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt
and remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine (see illustrations).
Refitting
29 Fit the tensioner to the engine, making
sure that the slot on the tensioner backplate
IS correctly located over the peg on the engine
bracket (see Illustration).
30 Clean the threads of the retaining bolt and
apply thread-locking compound to the bolt
threads. Screw in the retaining bolt, set the
tensioner in the retracted position and tighten
the retaining bolt.
31 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
Idler
pulley
Removal
32 Remove the timing belt as described In
Section 6.
33 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt and
remove the idler pulley from the engine (see
Refitting
in the tensioner backplate
sr the peg (arrowed)
jnglne bracket
7.33 Slacken and remove the retaining
bolt and remove the idler pulley from the
engine
34 Refit the idler pulley and lighten the
retaining bolt to the specified torque.
35 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
9.2a Disconnect the wiring connectors
the fuel Injectors . . .
C a m s h a f t oil seat •
renewal
1 Remove the camshaft spreeki
in Section 7.
2 Carefully punch or drill a small hole in the oil
seal. Screw in a self-tapping screw, and pull
on the screw with pliers to extract the seal.
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fall In the first place.
4 Press the new oil seal into position using a
suitable tubular drift (such as a socket) which
bears only on the hanj outer edge of the seal.
Take care not to damage the seal lips during
fitting; note that the seal lips should face
Inwards5 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section 7,
: 9
conditioning compressor
(anrowed)
6 Release the two retaining clips and
disconnect the charge air hose from the
throttle body/housing, and intercooler charge
air pipe (see illustration).
Camshaft housing -
removal and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
2 Disconnect the wiring harness connectors
from the following components (s
illustrations):
(J Fuel injectors.
b) Fuel pressure regulating valve.
c) Fuel pressure sensor.
d) Camsiiaft sensor.
e) Air conditioning compressor.
3 Release the air conditioning compressor
wiring harness from the clip on the oil dipstick
guide tube. Undo the two bolts securing the
plastic wiring harness guide to the camshaft
housing and move the disconnected winng
harness to one side (see Illustrations).
4 Disconnectthe two vacuum hoses from the
vacuum pipe assembly on top of the camshaft
housing. Undo the two retaining bolts and
move the pipe assembly to one side (see
illustration).
5 Remove the fuel iniectors and the hiel rail
as described in Chapter 4B.
9.3a Undo the two bolts (arrowed)
securing the wiring harness guide
camshaft housing . . .
9.4a Disconnect the two
from the vacuum pipe {
the disconnected
inng harness to one side
9.4b . . . then undo the two retaining boHs
(arrowed) and move the pipe assembly to
one side
^^^^
the retaining clips and
the charge air hose
9.7 Disconnect the vacuum hose
quick-release fitting from the braking
system v.
22 Refit the fuel raii and fuel injectors as
described in Chapter 4B.
23 Place the vacuum pipe assembly in
position on the top of the camshaft housing
and refit the two retaining bolts, Tighten the
bolts securely, then reconnect the two vacuum
24 Lay the plastic wiring harness guide in
position on the camshaft housing, then refit
and tighten the two retaining bolts.
25 Reconnect the wiring harness connectors
to the components listed in paragraph 2,
ensuring that the harness is secured by all the
relevant retaining clips.
26 Turn the crankshaft clockwise by 90° to
bnng No 1 and 4 pistons to approximately the
TDC position.
27 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 6.
10 C a m s h a f t s removal, inspection
and refitting
Note: An additional camshaft positioning
tool Vauxhall/Opel special tool EN-46789 (or
suitable equivalent) will be required for this
operation - two in total (see Section 3).
9.8 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation
nose irom me engine on finer nousing
9.11 Lift the camshaft housing off the
cylinder head and recover the gasket
7 Disconnect the vacuum hose quick-release
fitting from the braking system vacuum pump
(see illustration).
8 Release the clip and disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the engine oil
filler housing (see Illustration).
9 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
two engine lifting brackets 1mm the left-hand
end of the camshaft housing. Undo the bolt
securing the turbocharger charge air pipe to
the right-hand end of the camshaft housing
10 Working in a spiral pattern from the outside
Inwards, progressively slacken, then remove,
the sixteen bolts secunng the camshaft housing
to the cylinder head. Ensure that the housing
releases evenly from the cylinder btock.
11 Lift the camshaft housing oft the
cylinder head and recover the gasket (see
lUustratlon).
12 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder head, camshaft housing and vacuum
pump and obtain a new gasket for refitting.
16 Refit the sixteen camshaft housing
retaining bolts. Progressively screw in the
bolts to gradually draw the housing down and
into contact with the cylinder head.
17 Working in a spiral pattern from the inside
outwards, progressively tighten the sixteen
bolts securely.
18 Refit the two engine lifting brackets to the
left-hand end of the camshaft housing and
tighten the retaining tiolts securely. Refit and
tighten the charge air pipe retaining bolt.
19 Reconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
to the engine oil filler housing,
20 Reconnect the vacuum hose quick-release
fitting to the braking system vacuum pump
ensuring that the fitting audibly engages,
21 Refit the charge air hose to the throttle
body/housing, and intercooler charge air pipe
and secure with the retaining clips.
Refitting
13 Check that all the hydraulic tappets and
rocker arms are con-ectly positioned in the
cylinder head and none have been disturbed.
14 Commence refitting by turning the
crankshaft anti-clockwise by 90°. This will
position all the pistons halt-way down their
bores, and prevent any chance of the valves
touching the piston crowns as the camshaft
housing is being fitted.
16 Place a new gasket on the cylinder head,
then locate the camshaft housing in position
aligning it with the locating dowels.
10.3 Undo ttie three retaining bolts and
remove the oil tiller housing
Removal
1 Carry out the operations described in
Section 9, paragraphs 1 to 8.
2 Remove the braking system vacuum pump
as described in Chapter 9.
3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
coolant temperature sensor, then undo the
three retaining bolts and remove the oil filler
housing (see illustration).
4 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
camshaft sensor from the right-hand end ot
the camshaft housing.
5 Before removing the camshaft housing
completely, the retaining bolts for the camshaft
drivegears and sprocket should be slackened
: follows,
6 Remove the exhaust camshaft positioning
Jml from the valve timing checking hole,
7 It will be necessary to hold the camshaft
sprocket to enable the drivegear and sprocket
retaining bolts to be slackened. Vauxhall
special tools EN-467S7 and KM-956-1
are available for this purpose, however, a
home-made tool can easily be fabricated (see
Tool tip in Section 7).
8 Working through the oil filler housing
aperture, and using the holding tool to
prevent rotation of the camshaft, slacken
the inlet camshaft drivegear retaining
bolt. Working through the vacuum pump
aperture, slacken the exhaust camshaft
drivegear retaining bolt in the same way
(see illustrations).
9 Again, using the holding tool, slacken the
camshaft sprocket retaining bolt.
10 Continue with the camshaft housing
removal procedure as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 9 to 11.
11 With the camshaft housing placed upside
down on the bench, unscrew and remove
the previously-slackened retaining bolt, and
remove the timing belt sprocket from the
exhaust camshaft,
12 At the other end of the housing, unscrew
and remove the two previously-slackened
retaining bolts, and lift off the dnvegears
from the inlet and exhaust camshafts (see
13 Carefully prise out the exhaust camshaft
oil seal with a screwdnver or similar hooked
tool. Carefully withdraw the exhaust camshaft
out from the timing belt end of the camshaft
housing (see Illustration).
14 Using a wooden dowel or similar, carefully
tap the end of Ihe inlet camshaft toward the
timing bell end of the housing to release the
blanking cap. Remove the cap. then carefully
withdraw the inlet camshaft from the housing
(see Illustration).
Inspection
15 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft(s) if any of
these conditions are apparent. Examine
the condition of the bearing surfaces in the
camshaft housing. If the any wear or scoring
is evident, the camshaft housing will need to
be renewed.
16 If either camshaft is being renewed, it will
tie necessary to renew all the racker arms and
tappets for that particular camshaft also (see
Section 11).
17 Check the condition of the camshaft
10.13 Withdraw tho exhaust camshaft..
10,12b . . . then lift out the exhaust
drivegears and sprocket for chipped or
damaged teeth, wear ridges and scoring.
Renew any components as necessaiy.
Refitting
18 Prior to refitting, thoroughly clean all
components and dry with a lint-free cloth.
Ensure that all traces of oil and grease are
removed from the contact faces of the
drivegears, sprocket and camshafts.
19 Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals in
the camshaft housing and carefully insert the
inlet and exhaust camshafts,
20 Ensuring that the contact faces are clean
and dry, refit the drivegear to each camshaft.
Note that the gear with the vacuum pump drive
dogs is fitted to the exhaust camshaft, and the
plain gear is fitted to tbe inlet camshaft.
21 Screw in a new drivegear retaining bolt
for each camshaft and tighten both bolts
finger-tight only at this stage.
10,14 . . . and Inlet camshaft from the
camshaft housing
10,12c , . . and the inlet camshaft
drivegear
22 Refit the camshaft positioning tool to the
valve timing checking hole of the exhaust
camshaft. If necessary, rotate the exhaust
camshaft slightly until the tool audibly engages
(see lllustraüon),
23 Unscrew and remove the closure bolt
from the inlet camshaft side of the camshaft
housing and fit a second camshaft positioning
tool (see Illustrations), If necessary, rotate
the camshaft slightly until the tool audibly
24 With both camshafts locked by means of
the positioning tools, tighten both drivegear
retaining bolts to the specified torque (see
Illustration), It may be benelicial to have
an assistant securely support the camshaft
housing as the bolts are tightened.
25 Remove the positioning tool from the inlet
camshaft and refit the closure bolt. Tighten
the bolt to the specified tongue,
26 Fit a new inlet camshaft blanking cap to the
10.22 Refit the camshaft positioning tool
to Oie valve timing chocking hole of the
exhaust camshaft
10.23a Unscrew the closure bott from
ttie inlet camshaft side of the camshaft
housing...
10.26a Fit a new Inlet camshaft blanking
cap l o the camshaft housing . . .
10.26b . . . and tap tt into position until tt is
(lush with the outer (ace ol the housing
timing belt end of the camshaft housing and
tap it into position until it is flush with the outer
face of the housing, using a suitable socket or
tube, or a wooden block (see lllustratkinsl.
27 Similarly, fit a new exhaust camshaft oil
seal to the timing belt end of the camshaft
housing and tap it into position until it is flush
Wtth the outer face of the housing, using a
suitable socket or tube, or a wooden block
30 Refit the oil filler housing to the camshaft
housing using a new gasket, refit the
retaining bolts and tighten the bolts securely.
Reconnect the coolant temperature sensor
wiring connector
31 Refit the braking system vacuum pump as
described in Chapter 9.
32 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder head and camshaft housing.
33 Refit the camshaft housing to the cylinder
head as descht>ed in Section 9, paragraphs 13
to 26.
34 Commence refitting of the timing belt as
described in Section 6, paragraphs 9 to 14.
35 Retain the camshaft sprocket using the
holding tool, and tighten the retaining tjolt to
the specified ton:iue.
36 Continue refttting ot the timing belt as
described in Section 6. paragraphs 15 to 30.
28 Refit me timing belt sprocket to the
exhaust camshaft, aligning its cut-out with
the locating peg, and fit the new retaining bolt
finger-tight only at this stage. Final tightening
Is canied out after the timing belt has been
fitted and tensioned.
29 Refit the camshaft sensor to the camshaft
housing and tighten the retaining bolt
securely.
10.27 Similarly, (It a new exhaust camshaft
oil seal to the camstiaft housing
11 C a m s h a f t f o l l o w e r s a n d
hydraulic t a p p e t s - removal,
Inspection and refitting
^
^
^
Removal
1 Remove the camshaft housing as described
in Section 9.
2 Obtain sixteen small, oil tight clean plastic
containers, and number them inlet 1 to 8 and
exhaust 1 to 8; alternatively, divide a larger
container into sixteen compartments and
number each compartment accordingly
3 Withdraw each camshaft follower and
hydraulic tappet in turn, unclip the follower
from the tappet, and place them in their
respective container (see Illustrations). Do
not interchange the followers and tappets,
or the rate of wear will be much increased.
Fill each container with clean engine oil and
ensure that the tappet is submerged.
Inspection
4 Examine the followers and hydraulic tappet
bearing surtaces for wear ridges and scoring.
Renew any follower or tappet on which these
conditions are apparent,
5 If any new hydraulic tappets are obtained,
they should be immersed in a container of
clean engine oil prior to refitting.
11.3b . . . and hydraulic tappet In t u m , and
place them In tfielr respective container
Refitting
6 Liberally oil the cylinder head hydraulic
tappet bores and the tappets. Working on one
a time, clip the follower back onto
the tappet, then refit the tappet to the cylinder
head, ensuring thaï It is refitted to Its original
bore. Lay the follower over its re^ective valve
(see illustrations).
7 Refit the remaining tappets and followers in
the same way.
8 With all the tappets and followers in place,
refit the camshaft housing as descdbed in
Section 9.
12 Cylinder h e a d -
.S^
removal and refitting
^
•
Note; New cylinder head bolts will be required
tor refitting.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapte^.
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
3 Remove the camshaft housing as described
in Section 9.
4 Remove the camshaft followers and
hydraulic tappets as described In Section 11.
5 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described In Chapter 4B
6 Release the clips and disconnect the
remaining two coolant iioses at the thermostat
housing, and the coolant hose at the EGR
valve heat exchanger (see illustration).
7 Release the coolant pipe from the stud
at the base of the thermostat housing (see
Illustration).
8 Undo the bolt securing the high-pressure
fuel pump mounting bracket to the cylinder
head (see illustration).
9 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected.
10 Working in the reverse of the tightening
sequence (see i l l u s t r a t i o n 12.27).
progressively slacken the cylinder head bolts
by half a turn at a time, until all bolts can be
unscrewed by hand. Note that an Ml 4 RIBE
socket bit will be required to unscrew tne
botts. Remove the cylinder head bolts and
recover the washers.
_ i the help of an assistant, if
iry, and lift the cylinder head irom the
cylinder block (see Illustration).
Caution: Do not lay the head on its lower
mating surface; support the head on
wooden blocks, ensuring each block only
contacts (/is head mating surface.
12 Remove the gasket and keep it tor
identification purposes (see paragraph 19).
13 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled tor
overhaul, then refer to Part E of this Chapter.
Preparation
for
11.6a Clip the follower back onto the
tappet...
11.6b . . . t h e n refit the tappet t o Its
original bore, and lay the follower over its
plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces
of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston
crowns. Take particular care, as the surfaces
are damaged easily. Also, make sure that
the cartx)n is not allowed to enter the oil and
water passages - this is particularly important
for the lubrication system, as carbon could
block the oil supply to any of the engine's
components. Using adhesive tape and paper,
seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder
block/crankcase. To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons and bores, smear
a little grease in the gap. After cleaning each
piston, use a small brush to remove all traces
of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe
away the remainder with a clean rag. Glean all
the pistons in tfie same way.
15 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal.
16 Ensure that the cylinder head bolt holes
in the crankcase are clean and free of oil.
Syringe or soak up any oil left in the bolt holes.
This Is most important In order that the correct
bolt tightening torque can be applied and
to prevent the possibility of the block being
cracked by hydraulic pressure when the bolts
are tightened.
17 The cylinder head bolts must tje discarded
and renewed, regardless of their apparent
condition.
18 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part E of this
Chapter If necessary.
12.6 Disconnect the coolant hoses at the
thermostat housing (A), and at the EGR
valve heat exchanger (B)
12.7 Release the coolant pips from
tlie stud (an-owed) at the base of the
rofitUng
14 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard
12.8 Undo the boK
high-pressure fuel
to the cylinder head
12.11 Uft the cylinder head from the
19 On this engine, the cylinder head-topiston clearance is controlled by fitting
ditterent thickness head gaskets. The gasket
thickness can be determined by looking at the
holes stamped on the edge of the gasket (see
Hlufitratlon).
Gasket thickness
Number ol holes
0.77to0.87mm
Wo holes
0.87 to 0.97 mm
Two holes
0.97 to 1.07 mm
The correct thickness of gasket required is
selected by measuring the piston protrusions
as follows.
20 Mount a dial test indicator securely on the
block so that its pointer can ba easily pivoted
between the piston crown and block mating
surface. Tum the crankshatt to bring No 1 piston
roughly to the TDC position. Move the dial test
Indicator protje over and in contact with No 1
piston. Turn the crankshaft back and forth
slightly until the highest reading is shown on the
gauge, indteating that the piston is at TDC.
21 Zero the dial test indicator on the gasket
surface of the cylinder biock then carefully
move the indicator over No 1 piston. Measure
its pnatrusion at the highest point between the
valve cut-outs, and then again at its highest
point between the valve cut-outs at 90° to the
first measurement (see illustration). Repeat
this procedure with No 4 piston.
22 Rotate the crankshaft halt a turn (180")
to bring No 2 and 3 pistons to TDC. Ensure
the crankshaft is accurately positioned then
measure the protrusions of No 2 and 3 pistons
at the specified points. Once all pistons have
been measured, rotate the crankshaft to
position all the pistons at their mid-stroke.
23 Select the correct thickness of head
gasket required by determining the largest
amount of piston protrusion, and using the
following table.
Piston protrusion Gasket thickness
measurement (mm) required (mm)
0.020 to O.IOQ
0.77 to 0.87 (no holes)
0.101 to 0.200
0.87 to 0.97 (one hole)
0.201 to 0,295
0.97 to 1.07 (two holes)
Refitting
24 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Place the new gasket In position with the words
ALTO/TOP uppemiost (see illustration).
26 Carefully refit the cylinder head assembly to
the block, aligning it with the locating dowels.
26 Apply a thin film ot engine oil to the bolt
threads and the underside of the bolt heads.
Carefully enter each new cylinder head
bolt into its relevant hole (do not drop ihem
in). Screw all bolts ir
finger-tight.
12.24 Place the now gasket in position with the words ALTO/TOP
uppermost
27 Working progressiveiy in the sequence
stiown, tighten the cylinder head bolts to their
Stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench
and suitable socket (see illustration). Working
again in the same sequence, go around and
tighten all bolts through the specified Stage 2
tongue setting.
28 Once all bolts have been tightened to the
Slage 2 lorqur
irking agaii
nd and tighte
rough the specif ied Stage 3 a
rough the specif led Stage
angle, :
1,-iliv throuoii the specified Stage 5 angle
angle-n
iuring gauge.
Ketit tne Don securing me mgn-pressure
fuel pump mounting bracket to tho cylinder
head and tighten the bolt securely.
30 Engage the coolant pipe with the stud on
the thermostat housing, then reconnect the
coolant hoses to the thermostat housing and
EGR valve heat exchanger
31 Refit the inlet and exhaust manifolds as
described in Chapter 46.
32 Refit the camshaft followers and hydraulic
tappets as described in Section 11.
33 Refit the camshaft housing as described
in Section 9.
34 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal, then refill the cooling
system as descritied in Chapter 1B.
13 S u m p removai and refitting
J
x
Refer to Chapter 2C, Section 13, but use
the tongue settings from the beginning ot tnis
Chapter.
14 Oil p u m p removal, overhaul and refitting
by hand only, until
12.27 Cirtlnder head bolt tightening sequence
the torque settings from the beginning of this
Chapter, and the following procedures from
this Chapter.
a) riming
removal and remting (Section 6).
b) Crankshaft sprocket remove and refitting
Action 7).
15 Oil filter h o u s i n g removal and refitting
Reier to Chapter 2C, Section 15, but use
the torque settings from the begmning of this
Chapter.
:16 C r a n k s h a f t oil seals renewal
Refer to Chapter 2C, Section 16, but use
the tnrnur: settings from the beginning of this
Chapter, and the cranl^shafl sprocliet removal
and refitting procedure from Section 7 m this
Chapter
;.17 F i y w h e e i / d r i v e p l a t e removal, inspection
refitting
^
^
^
Note: New liywheel/driveplate retaining bolts
will tie requirsd on refitting.
Removal
Manual t r a n s m i s s i o n m o d e l s
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly
as described in Chapter 6.
2 Prevent the flywheel irom turning by locking
17.2 Prevent tlie flywheel from turning by
locltfng the ring gear J6e«i
17.3 Rywbeel retaining bolts (anwved)
the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement
to that shown (see illustration).
3 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel (see illusb«tion). Do not
drop it, as it is very heavy.
Automatic transmission models
4 Remove the transmission as described In
Chapter 7B then remove the driveplate as
described in paragraphs 2 and 3.
drcip of locking compound to the threads of
each new flywheel retaining bolt (unless they
are already precoated) and install the new
bolts.
8 Lock the flywheel by the method used on
removal then, worthing in a diagonal sequence,
evenly and progressively tighten tfie retaining
bolts to the specified tonque.
9 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6
then remove the locking tool, and refit the
transmission as descritied in Chapter 7A.
Automatic transmission models
Inspection
5 If there is any doubt about tiie condition of
Vne fiywheei/driveplate, seek the advice of a
Vauxhall/Opel dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. They will be able to advise if It Is
possible to recondition if or whether renewal
is necessary.
Refitting
Manuał t r a n s m i s s i o n m o d e l s
6 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft.
7 Offer up the flywheel and engage it over the
positioning dowel on the crankshaft. Apply a
10 Refit the driveplate as described in para
graphs 6 to 8.
11 Renxive the locldng tool, and refit the transmissic»? as described in Chapter 7B,
18 E n g i n e / t r a n s m i s s i o n
mountings inspection and renewal
S
9
M
Refer to Chapter 2C, Section 18. where
necessary using this Chapters specifications.
Chapter 2 Part E:
Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Contents
Section number.
Section number
Crankshaft-inspection
Crankshaft-refitting
Crankshaft - removal
Cylinder block - cleaning and inspection
Cylinder head - dismantling
Cylinder head - reassembly
Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection
Engine-initial start-up after overhaul
Engine and transmission unit - removal, separation and refitting . . .
Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence
13
17
10
11
6
8
7
19
4
5
Engin,
Engin.
Engine removal - methods and precautions
General information
Main and big-end bearings - inspection
Piston
rings-refitting
Pistons/connecting rods - inspection
Pistons/connecting rods-refitting
Pistons/connecting nods removal
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
^
Fairly easy, suitable |
for beginner with
§
Fabiytfifficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
^
^
^
Difficult, suitable
^
for expOTienced DIY 5 ;
mechanic
^
Specifications
1.8 l i t r e Z 1 8 X E p e t r o l e n g i n e s
Cylinder head
lidaximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder head height
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
Valve seat vridth in cylinder head:
Inlet
Exhaust
Vahes and guides
Stem diameter:
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve head diameter:
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve length:
inletvalve
Exhaust valve
iWaximum pemiissible valve stem play in guide:
Inlet
Exhaust
Valve clearances
Cylinder block
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder bore diameter
Maximum cylinder bore ovality and taper
0.05 mm
135.85 to 136.00 mm
90° 30'
1.0to1.4mm
1.4 to 1.8 mm
4.955 to 4.970 mm
4.935 to 4.950 mm
31.10 to 31.30 mm
27,40 to 27.60 mm
101.20 to 101.60 mm
100.56 lo 100.96 mm
0.030 to 0.057 mm
0.050 to 0.077 mm
Automatic adjustment by hydraulic
0.05 mm
80.485 to 80.555 mm (nominal)
0.013 mm
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
. 15
3
1
14
16
12
18
9
1.8 l i t r e Z 1 8 X E p e t r o l e n g i n e s ( c o n t i n u e d )
Crankshaft and baaringa
Number of main bearings
Mam bearing journal diameter
Big-end beanng journal diameter
Crankshaft endfloat
5
54.980 to 54.997 n42.971 to 42.987 n0.100 to 0.202 mm
Pistons
Piston diameter
80.455 to 80.525 n
Piston rings
Numt)er of
Ring end gap:
Compressio
Oil control.
2 compression, 1 oil control
Torque wrench settings
Refer to Chapter 2A Specifications
1.8 l i t r e Z I S X E R p e t r o l e n g i n e s
Note: Where specifications are given as N/A, no information was avaiiabie at the tii
Refer to your Vauxhall/Opel dealer for the latest information available.
Cylinder head
Iwlaximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder head height
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
Valve seat width in cylinder head:
inlet
Exhaust
Valves and guides
Stem diameter
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Vatve head diameter:
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve length:
Inletvalve
Exhaustvalve
Maximum permissible valve Stem play in guUe:
Inlet
Exhaust
Valve clearances (cold):
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
0.05 mn
N/A
90" 30'
I.Otol.
1,4 to 1,
4.955 to
4.935 to
30.70 to
27.10 to
117.101
116.161
0.030 to
0,05010
0.21 to (
0.27 to I
Cylinder block
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder bore diameter
Maximum cyiinder bore ovality and taper
0.05 mn
80.492 !
0.013 m
Crankshatt and bearings
Number of main bearings
Main bearing journal diameter
Big-end bearing journal diameter
Crankshaft endfloat
5
54-980 10 54.997
42.971 to 42.987
0,100 to 0.202 n-
nstons
Piston diameter
Piston rings
Number of rings (per piston)
Ring end gap:
Top compression
Second compression
Oil control
Torque wrench settings
Refer to Chapter 2A Specifications
80.455 to 80.515 mm (nomlnaO
2 compressioi
0,20 to 0.40 rr
0.40 to 0.60 n
0.25 to 0.75 n"
2.2 l i t r e p e t r o l e n g i n e s
Cylinder head
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder head height
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
Valve seat width in cylinder head;
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valves and guides
Stem diameter
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve head diameter:
Inlet valve
Exhaust valve
Valve length:
Inlet valve
exhaust valve
Maximum pennissible valve stem play In guide:
inlet
Exhaust
Valve clearances
0.05 mm
129.00 mm
90°
1.1 to 1.3 mm
1.4 to 1.8 mm
5.955 to 5,970 mm
5.945 to 5.960 mm
34.95 to 35.25 mm
29.95 to 30,25 mm
101,995 to 102.545 mm
100.685 to 101.235 mm
0.aA2 to 0.045 mm
0.052 to 0.055 mm
Automatic adjustment by hydraulic c.
Cylinder b l o ^
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder bore diameter
Maximum cylinder bore ovallty and taper
0.05 mm
85.992 to 86.008 mm
0.013 mm
Crankshaft and twa rings
Number of main bearings
Main bearing iournal dianeter
Big-end bearing journal diameter
Crankshaft endfloat
5
55.994 to 56,008 mm
49.000 to 49,014 mm
0,04 to 0.292 mm
(Hstons
Piston diameter
85.967 to 85.982 mm
Piston rtngs
Number of rings (per piston)
2 compression, 1 oil control
Ring end gap:
Top compression
0.20 to 0.40 mm
Second compression
0,35 to 0.55 mm
Oil control
025 to0.76mm
Torque wrrench settings
Refer to Chapter SB Specifications
1.9 l i t r e S O H C d i e s e l e n g i n e s
Note: Where specificat/ons are given as N/A, no information was availabie at the time of writing.
Refer to yotir Vauxhali/Opel dealer for the latest infonnation available.
Cylinder head
Maximum gasket face distortion
0-10 mm
Cylinder head height
140.85 to 141.15 mm
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
N/A
Valve seat width in cylinder head
N/A
\^lve8 and guides
Stem diameter (inlet and exhaust}
7.974 to 7,992 mm
Valve head diameter
N/A
Valve length
N/A
Maximum permissible valve stem play In guide
N/A
Valve clearances (cold):
Inlet valve
0-25 to 0.35 mm
Exhaust valve
0.30 to 0,40 mm
Cylinder block
Maximum gasket face distortion
Cylinder bore diameter
Maximum cylinder bore ovallty
Maximum cylinder bore taper
0.15 mm
82.000 to 82.030 mm
0.050 mm
0.005 mm
1.9 l i t r e S O H C d i e s e l e n g i n e s ( c o n t i n u e d )
Crankshaft and bearings
Number of main bearings
Main bearing journal diameter
Big-end tearing journal diameter
Crankshaft endfloat
5
59.855 to 60.000 mm
50,660 to 50,805 mm
0.049 to 0.211 mm
Pistons
Piston diameter
Piston rings
Number of rings (per piston)
Ring end gap:
Top compression
Second compression
Oil control
Torque wrench settings
81.920 to 81.950 mm
2 compression, 1 oil control
0,25 to 0.40 mm
0,25 to 0.50 mm
0.25 to 0.50 mm
Refer to Chapter 2C Specifications
1.9 l i t r e D O H C d i e s e l e n g i n e s
Note: Where speciflcaiions are given as N/A. no information was available at tfie time of writing.
Refer to your Vauxhall/Opel dealer for the latest information available.
Cylinder head
Maximum gasket face distortion
0.10mm
Cylinder tiead height
106.95 to 107.05 mm
Valve seat angle in cylinder head
N/A
Valve seat width In cylinder head
N/A
Vaives and guides
Stem diameter
Inlet valve
5,982 to 6,000 mm
Exhaust valve
5,972 to 5,990 mm
Valve head diameter
N/A
Valve length (inlet and exhaust)
107,95 mm
Maximum permissible valve stem play in guide
N/A
Valve clearances.,.,
Automatic adjustment by hydraulic cam followers
Cylinder block
Maximum gasket face distortion
0.15 mm
Cylinder bore diameter
82.000 to 82.030 mm
Maximum cylinder bore ovallty
0.050 mm
Maximum cylinder bore taper
0,005 mm
Crankshaft and bearings
Number of main bearings
5
Main bearing journal diameter
59.855 to 60.000 mm
Big-end bearing journal diameter
50,660 to 50,805 mm
Crankshaft endfloat
0.049 to 0.211 mm
Pistons
Piston diameter
Piston rings
Number of rings (per piston)
Ring end gap:
Top compression
Second compression
Oil control
Torque wrench settings
r,'
,4
General i n f o r m a t i o n
Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details
of removing the engine/transmission fnam the
car and general overhaul procedures for the
cylinder head, cylinder block/crankcase and
^1 other engine internal components.
81.920 to 81.950 mm
2 compression, 1 oil control
0.20 to 0,35 mm
0.60 to 0,80 mm
0.25 to 0.50 mm
Refer to Chapter 2D Specifications
The information given ranges from advice the removal and refitting of those external
concerning preparation for an overhaul
components necessary for full overhaul,
and the purchase of new parts, to detailed refer to Part A, B, C or D of this Chapter (as
step-by-step procedures covering removal, applicable) and to Section 5, Ignore any
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
preliminary dismantling operations described
internal components.
In Part A, B, C or D that are no longer relevart
After Section 5, all instructions are based once the engine has been removed fnam the
on the assumption that the engine has car,
been removed from the car. For Information
Apart from tonque wrench settings, which aie
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as given at the beginning of Part A, B, C or D (as
applicable), all specifications relating to engine
overhaul are at the beginning ot this Part of
Chapter 2.
11.2
Engine o v e r h a u l ai information
It is not always easy to determine when, or
if, an engine should be completely overhauled,
as a number of factors must be considered.
High mileage is not necessarily an indication
that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage
does not preclude the need for an overhaul.
Frequency of servicing is probably the most
important consideration. An engine which has
had regular and frequent oil and filter changes,
as well as other required maintenance, should
give many thousands of miles of reliable
service. Conversely, a neglected engine may
require an overhaul very early in its life.
EKcessive oil consumption is an indication
that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure that
oil leaks are not responsible tiefore deciding
that the hngs and/or guides are worn. Have a
compression test performed (refer to Part A
or B of this Chapter for petrol engines and to
Part C or D for diesel engines), fo determine
the likely cause of the problem.
Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted in
place of the oil pressure switch, and compare
it with that specified. If it is extremely low,
the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil
pump, are probably worn out.
Loss of power rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive vah/e gear
noise, and high fuel consumption may also
point to the need for an overhaul, especially
it they are ali present at the same time. If a
complete service does not cure the situation,
major mechanical work is the only solution,
A full engine overhaul involves restoring
all internal parts to the specification of a
new engine. Dunng a complete overhaul, the
pistons and the piston rings are renewed, and
the cylinder bores are reconditioned. New
main and big-end beanngs are generally fitted;
if necessary, the crankshaft mayfc>ereground,
to compensate for wear in the journals. The
valves are also serviced as well, since they
are usually in less-than-perfect condition at
tnis point. Always pay careful attention to the
condition of the oil pump when overhauling the
engine, and renew it if there is any doubt as to
its serviceability. The end result shouid be an
as-new engine that will give many trouble-free
miles.
Critical cooling system components
such as the hoses, thermostat and coolant
pump should be renewed when an engine
is overhauled. The radiator should also be
checked carefully, to ensure that it is not
clogged or leaking.
Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
through the entire procedure, to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Check on the availability of parts and
make sure that any necessary special tools
and equipment are obtained In advance. Most
work can be done with typical hand tools,
although a number of precision measuring
tools are required for inspecting parts to
determine if they must be renewed.
The services provided by an engineering
machine shop or engine reconditioning
specialist will almost certainly be required,
particularly if major repairs such as crankshaft
regrinding or cylinder reboring are necessary.
Apart from carrying out machining operations,
these establishmffiits will nomially handle the
Inspection of parts, offer advice concerning
reconditioning or renewal and supply new
components such as pistons, piston nngs
and beanng shells. It is recommended that
the establishment used is a member of the
Federation of Engine Re-Manufacturers, or a
similar society.
Always wait until the engine has been
completely dismantled, and until all
components (especially the cylinder block/
crankcase and the crankshaft) have been
inspected, before deciding what service
and repair operations must be performed
by an engineering works. The condition of
these components will be the major factor
to consider when determining whether
to overhaul the original engine, or to buy
a reconditioned unit. Do not, therefore,
purchase parts or have overhaul work done
on other components until they have been
thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time
is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does
not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine,
everything must be assembled with care, in a
spotlessly-clean environment.
3
Engine r e m o v a l methods and precautions
If you have decided that the engine must
be removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Engine/transmissron removal is extremely
complicated and involved on these vehicles. It
must be stated, that unless the vehicle can be
positioned on a ramp, or raised and supported
on axle stands over an inspection pit, it will be
very difficult to carry out the work involved.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine/transmission before beginning the
removal preicedure will help keep tools clean
and organised.
An engine hoist will also be necessary.
Make sure the equipment is rated in excess
of the combined weight of the engine and
transmission. Safety is ot primary importance,
considering the potential hazards involved in
removing the engine/transmission from the
The help of a
Apart
from the safety aspects involved, there are
many instances when one person cannot
simultaneously perform all of the operations
required during engine/transmission removal.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Before
starting work, ^ a n g e for the hire of or obtain
all of the tools and equipment you will need.
Some of the equipment necessary to perfonn
engine/transmission removai and Installation
safely (in addition to an engine hoist) is as
follows: a heavy duty trolley jack, complete
sets of spanners and sockets as described
in the rear of this manual, wooden blocks,
and plenty ot rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping-up spilled oil, coolant and luel. If
the hoist must be hired, make sure that you
anange for it in advance, and perform all of
the operations possible without it tieforehand.
This wili save you money and time.
Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a
while. An engineering machine shop or engine
reconditioning specialist will be required to
perform some of the work which cannot be
accomplished without special equipment.
These places often have a busy schedule, so
it would be a good idea to consult them before
removing the engine, in order to accurately
estimate the amount ol lime requited to
rebuild or repair components that may need
work.
During the engine/transmission removal
procedure, it is advisable to make notes
ol the locations of all brackets, cable ties,
earthing points, etc, as well as how the wiring
harnesses, hoses and electrical connections
are attached and routed around the engine
and engine compartment. An effective way of
doing this is to take a series of photographs
of the various components before they are
disconnected or removed; the resulting
photographs will prove Invaluable when the
engine/transmission is refitted.
Always t>e extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious
injury can result from careless actions. Plan
ahead and take your time, and a job of this
nature, although major, can be accomplished
successfully
On all Vectra models, Ihe engine must be
removed complete with the transmission as
an assembly. There is insufficient clearance in
the engine compartment to remove the engine
leaving the transmission in the vehicle. The
assembly is removed by raising the front of
the vehicle, and lowering the assembly from
the engine compartment.
4
Engine and
t r a n s m i s s i o n unit - removal,
separation and refitting
^
Note 1: The engine can be removed from
the car oniy as a complete unit with the
transmission; the two are then separated
tor overhaul. The engine/transmission unit is
lowered out of position, and withdrawn fmm
under the vehicle. Bearing this in mind, and
4.8a Unscrew th« bolts (arrowed) securing the fuse/relay
box upper and lower sections and the wiring harness block
connectors...
also bearing In mind the information contained procedure. Where differences are encoL
in Section 3, ensure the vehicle is raised
additional component disconnection or
sufficiently so that there is enough clearance
removal is necessary, make notes of the work
between the front of the vehicle and the floor
involved as an aid to refitting.
to allow the engine/transmission unit to be slid
Removal
out once It has t>een lowered out of position.
1 On models equipped with air conditioning,
Note 2: Such is the complexity of the power
have the air conditioning system fully
unit arrangement on these vehicles, and the
discharged by an air conditioning specialist.
variations that may be encountered according
to model and optional equipment fitted, that
2 Position the vehicle as described in Section 3,
the following should be regarded as a guide to
paragraph 2. and remove both front roadthe work involved, rather than a step-by-step
wheels. On petrol engine models, remove the
w4
4.8c . . . while at the same time
disconnecting the winng harness block
connectors
4.9b . , . then release the disconnected
wiring harness from the fuse/relay box
lower section so that it is free to be
removed with the engine
4.9a Undo the nut securing the earth
lead to the stud in front of the battery box
(arrowed)...
4,10 Disconnect the wiring block
T> the cooling fan module
above the cooling fans
right-hand wheel arch liner inner cover. On diesel
engine models, remove the engine undertray
3 Remove the bonnet and the front bumper
as described in Chapter 11.
4 Remove the plastic cover fnam the top of
the engine.
5 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
6 Carry out the following operations as
described in Chapter 1A or 1B, as applicable:
a) Drain the engine oil.
b) Drain the cooling system.
c) Remove the auxiliary drivebelt.
7 Remove the air cleaner assembly and intake
ducts as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, as
applicable.
8 Lfft off the cover from the engine
compartment fuse/relay box, and unscrew the
two bolts securing the upper section of the
fuse/relay box to the lower section. Undo the
three twits securing the engine wiring harness
block connectors to the fuse/relay box upper
section. Depress the tabs at each end and tift
the upper section off the lower section, while
at the same time disconnecting the three
block connectors (see illustrations).
9 Undo the nut securing the earth lead to the
stud in front of the battery box location. Release
tne Disconnected wiring harness from the lusa/
relay box lower section so that it is free to be
removed with the engine (see Illustrations).
10 Disconnect the wiring block connector
f'vm the cooling fan module above the cooling
fans (see illustration). Release the wiring
harness from the retaining clips so that it is
free to be removed with the engine.
11 Remove the air conditioning system
compressor as described in Chapter 3.
Petrol engine m o d e l s
12 Dépressurise the fuel system with
reference to Chapter 4A. then disconnect the
fuel supply pipe from the fuel rail and support
bracket. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
take adequate precautions. Clamp or plug the
open unions, to minimise further fuel loss.
4.14 Detach the additional relay box al the
left-hand side of the engine compartment diesel engines
4.16a Disconnect the heater element
wiring connector from the luel filter
4.16b . . . and tlie water level sensor
winng connector from the base of the filter
housing - diesel engines
4.17a Depress the retaining tangs and
detach the two fuel hose quick-release
connectors...
4.17b . . . then remove the hoses from the
fuel filler housing and cover diesel engines
a forked tool or flat-bladed screwdriver, and
carefully lever the gear selector inner cable
end fitting off the balljoinl on the selector lever
position switch. Pull back the retaining sleeve
and detach the outer cable from the mounting
bracket on the transmission.
4.19c . . . and disconnect the two wiring
connectors from the ECU - diesel engines
4.22 Lift up the wire clips and disconnect
the heater hoses from the matrix pipe stubs
13 Disconnect the brake vacuum servo hose,
and fuel evaporation purge hose.
Diesel e n g i n e m o d e l s
14 Detach the additional relay box at the
left-hand side of the engine compartment
and free the wiring harness so that it can be
removed with the engine {see Illustration).
15 Disconnect the brake vacuum sen/o hose
frcim the vacuum pump.
16 Disconnect the heater element wiring
connector from the fuel filter cover, and the
water level sensor wiring connector from the
base of the filter housing (see Illustrations).
17 Detach the two fuel hose quick-release
connectors and remove the hoses fnarn the
fuel filter housing and cover, A Vauxhail/
Opel special tool (KM-796-A) is available to
disconnect the hose connectors, but prcivlded
care is taken, the connections can be released
using two screwdrivers, a pair of long-nosed
pliers, or similar, to depress the retaining tangs
(see illustrations).
18 Once the two fuel hoses are disconnected,
suitably cover or plug the open connections to
prevent dirt entry.
19 Working under the front, right-hand side
of the oar, release the locking lever catch,
then lift the locking levers and disconnect
the two wiring connectors from the engine
management system ECU (see Illustrations).
All m o d e l s
20 Loosen the clips and remove the upper
and lower radiator hoses.
21 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the coolant hoses at the cooling system
expansion tank. Disconnect the wirmg
connector then remove the expansion tank
from its mounting bracket.
22 Using a small screwdriver, lift up the wire
clips securing the two heater hoses to the
heata- matrix pipe stubs, and disconnect the
hoses from the stubs (see illustration).
23 On manual transmission models (except
Easytronic), using a suitable forked tool,
release the gearchange selector cable end
fittings from the transmission selector levers.
Pull back the retaining sleeves and detach the
outer cables from the mounting bracket on the
24 On automatic transmission models, use
4.23a Release the selector inner cable
end fittings from the transmission selector
levers...
4.23b . . . t h e n pull back the retaining
sleeves and detach the outer cables from
the t r a n s m l s ^ n mounting bracket
25 Drain the transmission oil fluid as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 7.
26 Remove both driveshafts as described in
Chapter 8,
27 Position the steering with the front
roadwheels straight-ahead, and lock the
steering by removing the Ignition key.
28 Unscrew the nut and remove the bolt
securing the steering column Intermediate
shaft to the steering gear pinion shaft.
Separate the intermediate shaft from the
pinion shaft by pulling the intermediate shaft
upwards (see Itlustratlon)
29 On manual transmission models (except
Easytronic). remove the filler cap from the
brake/clutch fluid reservoir on the bulkhead,
then tighten it onto a piece of polythene. This
will reduce the loss of fluid when the clutch
hydraulic hose is disconnected. Alternatively,
fit a hose clamp to the flexible hose next
to the clutch hydraulic connection on the
transmission housing.
Caution: To prevant damage to the airliag
wiling contact unit/ the steering lock must
remain locked until the intermediate shaft
is re-attached to the pinion s/iaft.
30 Place some cloth rags beneath the hose,
then prise out the retaining clip securing the
clutch hydraulic hose to the end fitting on top
of the transmission bellhousing. Detach the
hose from the end fitting (see Illustrations).
Gently squeeze the two legs of the retaining
clip together and re-insert the retaining clip
back into position In the end fitting. Discard
4.28 Unscrew the nut and remove the boH
(arroweo) securing the steering column
intermediate shaft to the steering gear
pinion shaft
the sealing ring from the hose end; a new
sealing ring must be used on refitting. Plug/
cover both the end fitting and hose end to
minimise fluid loss and prevent the entry of
dirt into the hydraulic system. Note: Whilst
the hose Is disconnected, do not depress the
clutch pedal.
31 On automatic transmission models,
unscrew the central retaining bolt (or nut)
and detach the fluid cooler pipes from the
transmission. Suitably cover the pipe ends
and plug the transmission orifices to prevent
dirt entry,
32 Attach a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder
head, and support the weight of the engine/
33 Remove the front subframe as described
in Chapter 10.
34 Mark the position of the three bolts
securing the right-hand engine mounting
bracket to the engine bracket and undo the
bolts (see illustration). Note: There Is no need
to remove the mounting, since the engine/
transmission is lowered from the engine
compartment.
4.30a Pnse out the clip securing the clut^ti
hydraulic hose to the end fitting on the
4.J0b , , . then dotach thL IIC^L Irom the
end fitting
35 Mark the position of Ihe three bolls
securing the left-hand enoine mountina to tne
transmission bracket (see illustration).
36 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant pipes, hoses, wires, etc, have been
disconnected, and that they are positioned
clear of the engine and transmission,
37 With the help of an assistant, carefully
lower the engine/transmission assembly to
the ground. Make sure that the surrounding
components In the engine compartment are
not damaged. Ideally, the assembly should
be lowered onto a trolley jack or low platfonn
with castors, so that It can easily be withdrawn
from under the car.
38 Ensure that the assembly is adequately
supported, then disconnect the engine hoist
and lifting tackle, and withdraw the engine/
transmission assembly irom under the front of
the vehicle,
39 Clean away any external dirt using
paraffin or a water-soluble solvent and a stiff
bnjsh,
40 With reference to the relevant Part of
Chapter 7, unbolt the transmission from the
engine. Carefully withdraw the transmission
h-om the engine. On manual transmission
models, ensure that Its weight is not allowed
to hang on the input shaft while engaged
with the clutch friction disc. On automatic
transmission models, ensure that the tonjue
converter is removed together with the
transmission so that it remains engaged with
the oil pump. Note that the transmission
locates on dowels positioned in the rear of
the oyiinder block.
Refitting
41 With reference to the relevant Part ol
Chapter 7, relit the transmission to the engine
and tighten the bolts to the specified tonque,
42 With the front of the vehicle raised and
supported on axle stands, move the engine/
transmission assembly under the vehicle,
ensuring that the assembly is adequately
supported,
43 Reconnect the hoist and lifting tackle to
the engine lifting brackets, and carefully raise
the engine/transmission assembly up into
the engine compartment with the help of an
assistant.
44 Reconnect the right- and left-hand engine/
transmission mountings and tighten the bolts
to the specified torque given In the relevant
Part of this Chapter. Ensure that the marks
made on removal are correctly aligned when
tightening the retaining trolts.
45 Refit the front subframe as described in
Chapter 10,
46 Disconnect the hoist and lifting tackle
from the engine lifting brackets.
47 Refit the driveshafts as described in
Chapter 8.
48 On manual transmission models, refill the
transmission with correct quantity and type of
oil. as described in Chapter 7A or 7C,
49 Reconnect the steering c o l u m n
Intermediate shaft to the steering gear
pinion shaft and tighten the bolt and nut with
reference to Chapter 10.
50 On automatic transmission models,
reconnect the fluid cooler pipes together with
sion.
tn un manual itansmission models (except
Easytronic), reconnect and bleed the clutch
nvorauiic connection at tne transmission with
reference to Chapter 6.
B2 Refit the gearchange/selector outer
cket on the
transmission. ^naaQe tne inner cable end
tittinals) with the selector lover balljoint,
squeezing them together with pliers if
63 Push the securing wire clip back into
position on the heater hose end fittings, then
push the hoses back onto the matrix pipe
stubs. Ensure that the wire clips securely lock
the hoses in position.
54 Reft the cooling system expansion tank,
and reconnect the wiring connector and the
coolant hoses,
55 Reconnect the upper and lower radiator
hoses.
Petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
56 Reconnect the brake vacuum servo hose,
and fuel evaporation purge hose and fuel
supply pipe.
Diesel engine m o d e l s
57 Reconnect the two vacuum hoses at the
solenoid valve located above the radiator
58 Reconnect the brake vacuum servo hose
to the vacuum pump, and the fuel hoses and
vnring connectors at the fuel filter
59 Refit the additional relay box to its
location at the left-hand side of the engine
compartment and secure the wiring harness,
60 Reconnect the two wiring connectors to
the engine management system ECU.
All m o d e l s
61 Refit the air conditioning system
compressor as described in Chapter 3, then
refrt the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A or IB, as appllcable,.
62 Reconnect the wiring block connector to
the cooling fan module,
63 Locate the engine wiring harness biock
connectors back into position in the fuse/
relay box lower section. Refit the upper
section to the lower section ensuring that
the block connectors are pro peri y engaged.
Refit and tighten the ttiree bolts securing
the block connectors, and the two bolts
securing the upper section to the lower
section.
64 Reconnect the earth lead to the stud in
fnant of the battery box location and secure
with the retaining nut,
65 Refrt the air cleaner assembly and Intake
ducts as described in Chapter 4A or 48, as
applicable.
66 Refit the battery box and battery as
descnbed in Chapter 5A.
67 Refit the bonnet and the hont bumper as
described in Chapter 11.
68 Refit the right-hand wheel arch liner inner
cover, or engine undertray, and both front
roadwheels, then lower the vehicle to the
ground,
69 Make a final cheok to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
conectly reconnected.
70 Refill the engine with oil with reference to
Chapter 1Aor IB, as applicable.
71 On automatic transmission models, refill
the transmission with correct quantity and
type of f uid, as described in Chapter 7B,
72 Refill and bleed the cooling system with
reference lo Chapter 1A or I B . as applicable.
73 On models equipped with air conditioning,
have the air conditioning system evacuated,
charged and leak-tested by the specialist who
discharged it.
5
Engine o v e r h a u l dismantling sequence
on the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheei/drivepiate
should be removed, so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase.
2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a
sturdy workbench, or on the ftoor. Be extra
careful not to tip or drop Ihe engine when
working without a stand,
3 It you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all the external components must be
removed first, to be transferred to the new
engine (just as they will if you are doing a
complete engine overhaul yourself). These
components include Ihe following;
aj Engine wiring harness and supports.
b) Alternator and air conditioning
compressor mounting brackets (as
applicable).
c) Coolant pump (wtiere applicable) and
inlet/outlet housings.
d) Dipstick tube.
e) Fuel system components.
f) All electrical switches and sensors.
g) inlet and exhaust manifolds and. where
fitted, the turbocharger
h) Oil filter and oil cooler/heat exchanger
i) Flywheei/drivepiate
Note: When removing the external components
from the engine, pay close attention to details
that may be helpful or important during
refitting. Note the fitted position of gaskets,
seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts, and other
small Items.
4 If you are obtaining a 'short' engine
(which consists of the engine cylinder
block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and
connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing
belt/chains (as applicable) wili have to be
removed also.
5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled, and the internal
components removed, in the order given
below.
Petrol
Diesel
ir to dismantle and work
engines
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapter 4A).
b) Timing belt/chain, sprockets, tensioner
and idler puiieys (see Chapter 2A
orZB).
c) Coolant pump (see Chapter 3).
d) Cylinder head (see Chapter 2A or 28).
e) Flywheei/drivepiate (see Chapter 2A
or2B).
f) Sump (see Chapter 2A or 2B).
g) Oit pump (see Chapter 2A or 2B).
h) Pistons/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 9).
i) Crankshaft (see Section 10).
engines
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapter 4B).
6.2 Using a valve spring compressor,
compress the valve spnng to relieve the
pressure on the collets
4 Extract the two SFriit collets by hooking
them out using a smalt screwdriver
6.% . . . and the spring . . .
b) Timing belt, sprockets, tensioner and idler
pulleys (see Chapter 2C or 2D).
c) Coolant pump (see Chapter 3).
d) Cylinder head (see Chapter 2C or 2D}.
e) Fly^heelldriveplate (see Chapter 2C
or 2D).
5 Sump (see Chapter 2C or 2DJ.
g) Oil pump (see Chapter 20 or 2D).
h) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 9).
I) Crankshaft (see Section 10).
6 Before beginning the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure that you
have all of the correct tools necessary.
See Tools and working facilities for further
information.
f 6
Ci^tnder h e a d dismantling
clean away all external dirt, and remove the
following components as applicable, if not
already done:
a) fvlanifolds (see Chapter 4A or4B).
b) Spark plugs petrol engines - see
Chapter 1A).
c) Glow plugs (diesel engines - see Chapter 5A).
d) Camshafts and and associated valve train
components (see Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C
or 2D).
e) Fuel injectors (diesel engines - see
Chapter 4B).
f) Engine lifting brackets.
2 To remove a valve, fit a valve spring
compressor tool. Ensure that the arms of
the compressor tool are securely positioned
on the head of ihe valve and the spring cap
(see illustration). The valves are deeplyr=r-acoed on petrol engines, and a suitable
Note: Nsw and reconditioned cylinder heads
are nvairauit: iiuiii i/iti manufacturer, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available.
It may be mora practical and economical
for the home mechanic to purchase a
reconditioned head rather than to dismantle,
Inspect and recondition the original head. A
valve spring compressor tool will be required
for this operation.
1 With the cylinder head removed as
described In the relevant Part of this Chafer,
6.6 Place each /.ilvc .i^.-.omb]y in a
labelled poly
„
inw
6.5a Remove the valve spring
6.Sd Using pliers, remove the valve stem
oil seal, which also incorporates the spring
seat on most engines
extension piece may be required for the spring
compressor.
3 Compress the valve spring to relieve the
pressure of the spring cap acting on the collets.
!Wi!f!'=t3l "
spring cap sticks to \
„ . " 1 1 . 1 'fte valve stem, support ttie '.
HllllTI compressor tool, and give t
'
' the end a light tap with a i
soft-faced mallet to help free the spring
i
4 Extract the two split collets by hooking them
out using a small screwdriver, then slowly
release the compressor tool (see illustration),
5 Remove the valve spring cap and the
spring, then withdraw the valve through the
combustion chamber. Using pliers, remove the
valve stem oil sea!, which also incorporates
the spring seat on most engines (see
illustrations). If the spring seat is not part of
the valve stem oil seal, hook it out using a
small screwdriver
6 Repeal the procedure for the remaining
valves, keeping all components In strict onjer
so that they can be rethted in their original
positions, unless all the components are to
be renewed, if the components are to be kept
and used again, place each valve assembly
in a labelled polythene bag or a similar small
container (see Illustration). Note that as with
cylinder numbering, the valves are normally
numbered fnsm the timing chain (or timing
belt) end of the engine. Make sure that the
valve components are identified as inlet and
exhaust, as well as numbered.
7.6 Using a straight-edge and feeler gauge
to check cylinder head surface distortion
:;7
Cylinder h e a d a n d v a l v e s cleaning and inspection
1 Thorough cleaning of fhe cylinder head and
value components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried
out during the engine overhaul. Note: If the
engine has been severely overheated, it is best
to assume that (fie cylinder head is warped checfc carefully for signs of this.
Cteaning
2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material from the oyiinder head.
3 Scrape away the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.
4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits
that may have formed on the valves, then
use a power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits ftom the valve heads and stems.
Inspection
Note: Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before conciuding
that the services of a machine sftop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
ail items that require attention.
Cylinder h e a d
5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6 Use a straight-edge and feeler gauge blade
to check that the cylinder head surface is
not distorted {see Illustration). If ft is, rt may
be possible to resurface it, provided that the
cylinder head Is not reduced to less than the
minimum specified height,
7 Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely
pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be reçut by an engine overhaul specialist.
If they are only slightly pitted, this can be
removed by grinding-ln the valve heads and
seats with fine valve-grinding compound, as
described below.
8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by
7.11 Using a micrometer lo I
stem diameter
a side-to-side motion of the valve, oversize
valve guides are available, and valves with
oversize stems can be fitted. Tliis wori< Is best
carried out by an engine overhaul specialist. A
dial gauge may be used to d e t ^ l n e whether
the amount of side play of a valve exceeds the
specified maximum.
9 Check the tappet bores in the oyiinder head
for wear If excessive wear is evident, the
cylinder head must be renewed. Also check
the tappet oil holes in the cylinder head for
obstroctions.
Valves
10 Examine the head of each valve for pitting,
burning, cracks and general wear, and check
the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges.
Rotate the valve, and check for any obvious
indication that rt is bent. Look for pitting and
excessive wear on ttie tip of each valve stem.
Renew any valve that shows any such signs of
wear or damage,
11 If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter
at several points using a micrometer {see
Illustration), Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
12 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-tight
seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it
has been reçut, fine grinding compound only
should be used to produce the required finish.
Coarse valve-grinding compound should not
be used unless a seat is badly burned or
deeply pitted; if this is fhe case, the cylinder
head and valves should be inspected by an
expert to decide whether seat recuttlng, or
even the renewal of the valve or seat Insert, is
required.
13 Valve grinding is canied out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a
bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
14 Smear a trace of the appropriate grade
of valve-grinding compound on the seat
face, and press a suctron grinding tool onto
the valve head. With a semi-rotary action,
grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the
valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding
compound (see illustration). A light spring
7.14 Grlnding-ln a valve
placed under the valve head will greatly ease
this operation,
15 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
Is produced on both the valve seal and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound and
repeat fhe process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind In the valves any furttier than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinda" head.
16 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent
tiefore reassembly of the cylinder head.
Valve c o m p o n e n t s
17 Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discoloration; if possible: also
compare the existing spring free length with
new components.
18 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
ctieck it for squareness. If any of the springs
are damaged, distorted or have lost their
tension, obtain a complete new set of springs.
8
Cylinder h e a d nbly
1 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and
insert them into their original locations (see
illustration). If new valves are being fitted,
insert them into the locations to which they
have been ground.
8.1 Lubrícate the valve s t ^ with bigine oil
and Insert the valve into the correct guide
8.2a Fit Ihe spring s<
2 Working on the first valve, refit the spring
seat if it is not an integral part of the valve
stem oil seal. Dip the new valve stan seal in
fresh engine oil, then carefully locate it over
the valve and onto the guide. Take care not to
damage the seal as it is passed over the valve
stem. Use a suitable socket or metal tube to
press the seal firmly onto the guide. Note: If
genuine sea/s are being fitted, use the oil seal
protector which is suf^lied with the seals; the
protector fits over the valve stem and prevents
the oil seal lip being damaged on the valve
(see illustrations)
3 Locate the spring on the seat and fit the
^ r i n g cap (see illustration).
4 Compress the valve spring, and locate the
split collets in the recess in the valve stem
w
HÍNT
m
8.2b . . . then fit the seal protector (>irtiere
supplied) to the valve . . .
8.2c . . . and install the new valve stem oil
seal...
8.3 Refit the valve spring and fit the spring
cap
8.4 Compress fiie valve and locate the
collets In the recess on the valve stem
(see illustration and Haynes Hint), I
the compressor, then repeat the procedure on
the remaining valves.
5 With ail the valves installed, support the
cylinder head on blocks on the bench and,
using a hammer and interposed block of
wood, tap the end of each valve stem to settle
the components.
6 Refii the components removed in Section G,
paragraph 1.
way round the cap fits an the rod, when
refitting.
4 Turn the crankshaft to bring pistons 1 and 4
to BDC (bottom dead centre),
5 Unscrew the bolts fnDm No 1 piston big-end
bearing cap, then take off the cap and recover
the bottom half-bearing shell. If the bearing
shells are to be re-used, tape the cap and the
shell together.
Caution: On some engines, the connecting
rod/bearing cap mating surfaces are not
machined flat; the big-end bearing caps
are 'cracked' off from the rod during
production and left untouched to ensure
the cap and rod mate perfectly. Where
this type of connecting rod Is fitted, great
care must be taken to ensure the mating
surfaces of the cap and rod are not marked
or damaged in anyway. Any damage to the
mating surfaces will adversely affect the
strength of the connecting rod and could
lead to premature failure.
9
Pistons/conneGting r o d s removal
^
Note: New connecting rod big-end cap bolts
will be needed on refitting.
1 Referring to the relevant Part of this
Chapter, remove the cylinder head and sump.
Where fitted, unbolt the pick-up/strainer from
the base of the oil pump.
2 if there is a pronounced wear ridge at
the top of any bore, it may be necessary to
remove it with a scraper or ridge reamer, to
avoid piston damage during removal. Such a
ridge indicates excessive wear of the cylinder
bore.
3 If the connecting rods and big-end caps
are not marked to indicate their positions in
the cylinder block {Ie, marked with cylinder
numbers), suitably mark both the rod and
cap with quick-drying paint or similar. Note
which side of the engine the marks face
and accurately record this also. There may
not be any other way of identifying which
6 Using a hammer handle, push the piston
up through the bore, and remove It from the
top of the cylinder block. Recover the bearing
shell, and tape it to the connecting rod for
safe-keeping.
7 Loosely refit the big-end cap to the
connecting rod, and secure with the nuts/
bolts - this will help to keep the components
in their conect order.
8 Remove No 4 piston assembly in the same
way.
9 Turn the crankshaft through 180° to bring
pistons 2 and 3 to BDC, and remove them in
the same way.
10.3 Check Ihe crankshaft endfloat using
a dial gauge . . .
/AO C r a n k s h a f t V.
removai
3^
Note: New main bearing cap bolts Will be
required on refitting.
1.8 litre
petrol
engines
1 VtorkingasdescribedinPartAofthisChapter,
remove the flywheel and the oil pump.
2 Remove the piston and connecting rod
assemblies as described in Section 9. If no work
is to be done on the pistons and connecting
rods, unbolt the caps and push the pistons far
enough up the bores that the connecting nxis
are positioned clear of the crankshaft journals.
3 Before removing the crankshaft, check the
endfloat using a dial gauge in contact with the
end of the crankshaft. Push the crankshaft
fully one way, and then zero the gauge. Push
the crankshaft fully the other way, and check
the endfloat (see illustration). The result
should be compared with the specified limit,
and will give an indication as to the size of the
main bearing shell thrust journal width which
will be required for reassembly
4 If a dial gauge is not available, a feeler
gauge can be used to measure crankshaft
endfloat. Push the crankshaft fully towards
one end of the crankcase. and insert a feeler
gauge between the thrust flange of the main
bearing shell and the machined surface of
the crankshaft web (see illustration). Before
measuring, ensure that the crankshaft is fully
forced towards one end of the crankcase,
to give the widest possible gap at the
measuring location. Note: Measure at tne
beanng with the thrustwasher (see Section 1
In Chapter 2A. 2B 2C or 2D).
5 The main bearing caps should be numbered
1 to 5 from the timing belt end of the engme
and all identification numbers should be the
right way up when read from the rear ot tne
cylinder block (see illustration). If the bearing
caps are not marked, using a hammer and
punch or a suitable marker pen, number the
caps from 1 to 5 from the timing belt end of
ihe engine and mark each cap to indicate its
correct fitted direction to avoid confusion on
refitting.
6 Working in a diagonal sequence, evenly and
larklngs (arrowed) - 1.8 litre petrol engine
progressively slacken the ten main bearing
cap retaining bolts by half a turn at a time until
all bolts are loose. Remove all the bolts,
7 Carefully remove each cap from the cylinder
tilock, ensuring that the lower main bearing
shell remains in position in the cap.
8 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking care
not to displace the upper main bearing shells
(see Illustration). Remove the oil seal and
discard It.
9 Recover the upper bearing shells from
the cylinder block, and tape them to their
respective caps for safe-keeping.
2.2
litre
petrol
engines
10 Working as described in Part B of this
Chapter, remove the flywheel/drtveplate and
the timing chains and sprockets.
11 Remove the piston and connecting
rod assemblies as described in Section 9,
If no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, unbo't the caps and push
the pistons 'ar enough up the bores that the
connecting rods are positioned clear of the
crankshaft journals.
12 Before removing the crankshaft, check the
endfloat as described in paragraphs 3 and 4.
13 Evenly and progressively slacken the
cylinder block lower casing retaining bolts
and remove the casing from the cylinder block
(see illustration). If the locating dowels are a
loose fit, remove them and store them with the
casing for safe-keeping.
14 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking
care not to displace the upper main bearing
shells. Remove the oil seat and discard it.
10.8 Removing the crankshaft1.8 litre petrol engines
15 Recover the upper beanng shells from
the cylinder block, and tape them to their
respective positions in the lower casing for
safe-keeping.
Diesel
engines
16 Working as described in Part C or D of this
Chapter (as applicable), remove the flywheel/
driveplate, oil pump and the crankshaft
left-hand oil seal housing.
17 Remove the piston and connecting
rod assemblies as described in Section 9,
If no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, unbolt the caps and push
the pistons far enough up the bores that the
connecting rods are positioned clear of the
crankshaft journals.
18 Before removing fhe crankshaft, check the
endfloat as described in paragraphs 3 and 4.
19 Check the main bearing caps for
identification markings. Normally, No 1
bearing cap (timing belt end) is not marked
and the remaining caps are numbered 1,11, III,
nil. The lug at the base of the cap is used to
identify the inlet manifold side of the engine
(see Illustrations). If the bearing caps are
not marked, using a hammer and punch or a
suitable marker pen, number the caps from 1
to 5 fti^m the timing belt end ofthe engine and
mark each cap to indicate its correct fitted
direction to avoid confusion on refitting.
20 Working in a diagonal sequence, evenly
and progressively slacken the ten main
t>earing cap retaining bolts by half a turn at a
time until all bolts are loose. Remove all the
bolts-
10.13 Lifting the cylinder block lower
casing irom tne cyiinaer block 2.2 mre petrol engines
10.19a Main bearing cap identification
marks (arrowed)...
1 0 . 1 » . . . a n d the lug at the base o l
the cap (arrowed) is used to identify the
inlet manifold side of the engine - diesel
engines
21 Carefully remove each cap from the
cylinder block, ensuring that the lower main
bearing shell remains in position in the cap.
22 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking
care not to displace the upper main bearing
shells.
23 Recover the UDoer bearing shells and
ihe ih rust was hers 'rom the cylinder block,
and tape them to their respective caps for
s;iii>..K(!(i[>irii:
4 If the block and lower casing (where
applicable) are extremely dirty, they should be
steam-cleaned.
5 If the components have been steamcleaned, clean all oil holes and oil galleries one
more time on completion. Flush all internal
passages with wanri water until the water runs
clear. Dry the block and, where necessary, the
lowercasing thonsughly and wipe all machined
surfaces with a light oil. If you have access to
compressed air, use It to speed-up the drying
process, and to blow out all the oil holes and
4 4 1 Cylinder b l o c k ft;: cleaning and inspection
Cleaning
1 For complete cleaning, remove all external
componenEs (aenoers, sensors, brackets, oil
pipes, coolant pipes, etc) from the cylinder
block.
2 Scrape ail traces of gasket and/or sealant
from the cylinder block and lower casing
(where applicable), taking particular care not
to damage the cylinder head and sump mating
faces.
3 Remove all oil gallery plugs, where fitted.
The plugs are usually very tight - they
may have to be drilled out and the holes
retapped. Use new plugs when the engine
is reassembled. On diesel engines, undo the
retaining bolts and remove the piston oil spray
nozzles from inside the cylinder block (see
Illustration)
A
Warning: Wear eye
protection
when using compressed air.
6 If the block and lower casing are relatively
clean, an adequate cleaning job can be
achieved with hot soapy water and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thonaugh
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thonsughly, dry everything completely, and
coat all cast-imn madiined surfaces with light
oil.
7 The threaded holes in the cylinder block
must be clean, to ensure accurate torque
readings when tightening fixings during
reassembly. Run the correct-size tap
(which can be determined from the size of
the relevant bolt) into each of the holes to
remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or
other contamlnatton, and to restore damaged
threads. If possible, use compressed air to
clear the holes of debris produced by this
operation. Do not forget to clean the threads
of all boifs and nuts which are to be re-used,
as well.
8 Where applicable, apply suitable sealant
to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them
Into the relevant holes in the cylinder block.
Tighten the plugs securely. On diesel engines,
refit the oil spray nozzles into the block and
secure with the retaining bolts tightened
securely.
12.2 Using a feeler blade tc
piston ring
9 If the engine Is to be left dismantled for
some time, cover the cylinder block with a
large plastic bag to keep if clean and prevent
corrosion. Where applicable, refit the lower
casing and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
11.3 On diesel engines unscrew the
retaining bolts and remove the piston oil
spray nozzles from the cylinder block
Inspection
10 Visually check the block for cracks, nist
and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in
the threaded holes. It's also a good idea to
have the block checked for hidden cracks
by an engine reconditioning specialist who
has the equipment to do this type of work,
especially if the vehicle had a history of
overheating or using coolant, if defects are
found, have the block repaired, If possible, or
renewed.
11 if in any doubt as to the condition of the
cylinder block, have it inspected and measured
by an engine reconditioning specialist. If the
tiores are worn or damaged, they will be able
to carry out any necessary reboring (where
possible), and supply appropriate oversized
pistons, etc.
12 P i s t o n s / c o n n e c t i n g r o d s inspection
^
iK-
1 Before the inspection process can begin,
the piston/connecting rod assemblies must be
cleaned, and the original piston rings removed
from the pistons. Note: Always use new piston
rings when the engine is reassembled.
2 Carefully expand the old rings over the top
of the pistons. The use of two or three old
feeler gauges will be helpful in preventing
the rings dropping into empty grooves (see
illustration). Take care, however, as piston
rings are sharp,
3 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the
top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush,
or a piece of fine e m ^ cloth, can be used
once the majority of the deposits have been
scraped away,
4 Remove the carbon from the ring gpDOves
in the piston, using an old ring. Break the ring
in half to do this (be careful not to cut your
fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be very
caraful to remove only the carbon deposits do not remove any metal, and do not nick or
scratch the sides of the ring grooves,
5 Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/connecting rod assembly
with paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry
thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes
In the ring grooves are clear
6 If the pistons and cylinder bores are not
damaged or worn excessively, and if the
cylinder block does not need to be rebored,
the original pistons can be refitted. Normal
piston wear shows up as even vertical wear
on the piston thrust surfaces, and slight
looseness of the top ring in its groove. New
piston rings should always be used when the
engine is reassembled.
7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
anaund the skirt, at the gudgeon pin tiosses,
and at the piston ring lands (between the ring
grooves).
8 Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust
faces of the piston skirt, holes in the piston
crown, and burned areas at the edge of
the crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed,
the engine may have been suffering from
overheating, and/or abnormal combustion
{'pinking') which caused excessively-high
operating temperatures. The cooling and
lubrication systems should be checked
thoroughly A hole in the piston crown, or
burned areas at the edge ot the piston crown
indicates that abnormal combustion (preignltion, 'pinking', knocking or detonation) has
been occurring. If any of the above problems
exist, the causes must be investigated and
conected, or the damage will occur again,
9 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of
pitting, indicates that coolant has been
leaking into the combustion chamber and/
or the crankcase. Again, the cause must be
conected, or the problem may persist in the
rebuilt enoine.
10 If in any doubt as to tho condition of
the pistons and
3d by an e
then
new part
, they will be able ti3 supply a
ate-sized pistons/rit
13 Crankshaftinspection
1 Clean the crankshaft using paraffin or a
suitable solvent, and dry it, preferably with
compressed air if available. Be sure to clean
the oil holes with a pipe cleaner or similar
probe, to ensure that they are not obstmcted.
A
Warning: Wear eye
protection
wtjen using compressed air.
2 Check the main and big-end bearing
journals for uneven wear, scoring, pitting and
cracking.
3 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied by
distinct metallic knocking when the engine
Is running (particularly noticeable when the
engine is pulling from low revs), and some
k>ssof oil pressure,
4 Main bearing wear is accompanied by
severe engine vibration and rumble - getting
progressively worse as engine revs increase and again by loss of oil pressure.
5 Check the bearing journal for roughness by
ronning afingeriightly over the bearing surface.
Any roughness (which will be accompanied
by obvious bearing wear) indicates that the
crankshaft requires regrinding,
6 If the crankshaft has been reground, check
for bun-s around the crankshaft oil holes (the
holes are usually chamfered, so buns should
not t>e a problem unless regrinding has been
earned out carelessly). Remove any burrs with
a fine file or scraper, and thoroughly clean the
oil holes as described previously,
7 Have the crankshaft journals measured
by an engine reconditioning specialist. If the
crankshaft is worn or damaged, they may be
able to regrind the journals and supply suitable
undersize bearing shells. If no undersize shells
are avaiiabie and the crankshaft has worn
beyond the specified limits, it will have to be
renewed. Consult your Vauxhall/Opei dealer
or engine reconditioning specialist for further
information on paris availability.
8 If a new crankshaft is to be fttted, undo the
screws securing the crankshaft speed/position
sensor pulse pick-up ring to the crankshaft,
and transfer the ring to the new crankshaft
(see illustration).
14 M a i n a n d b i g - e n d bearings inspection
^
^
1 Even though the main and big-end bearings
should be renewed durinq the engine overhaul,
the old beatings should be retained for close
examination, as they may reveal valuable
inlormatlon about ttio condilion of the engine,
2 Beating failure occurs because of lack
of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine, ot
con-osion (see lllustratton). If a bearing fails,
the cause must be tounO and eliminated
assembled, to prevent
•Q ffO lappenii jagair
3 To examine the bearing shells, remove Ihem
from the cylinder block, the main tieating caps
or cylinder block lower casing, the connecting
tods and the big-end bearing caps, and lay
them out on a clean surface In the same orcler
as they were fitted to the engine. This will
enable any bearing problems to be matched
with the conesponding crank^aft journal.
4 Dirt and other foreign particles can enter
the engine in a variety of ways. Contamination
may be left in the engine during assembly, or
it may pass through fifters or the crankcase
ventilation system. Normal engine wear
produces small particles of metal, which can
eventually cause problems. If particles find
their way into the lubrication system, it is
likely that they will eventually be carried to the
bearings. Whatever the source, these foreign
particles often end up embedded in the soft
bearing material, and are easily recognised.
Large particles v^ll not embed in the bearing.
13.8 Transfer the crankshaft speed/
position sensor pulse pick-up ring to the
new crankshaft
and will score or gouge the bearing and
journal. To prevent possible contamination,
clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything
spotlessly-clean during engine assembly Once
the engine has been installed in the vehicle,
ensure that engine oil and filter changes are
carried out at the recommended intervals.
5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from the
bearing face), and oil leakage (from excessive
beanng clearances, worn oil pump or high
engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which
may be the result of misaligned oil holes in a
bearing shell, will also starve a bearing ot oil
and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the
cause of bearing failure, the bearing material
is wiped or extruded from the steal backing of
the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the
point where the steel backing turns blue fnxn
overheating.
e Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads on
FATIGUE FAILURE
IMPROPER SEATINtS
14.2 Typical bearing failures
all necessary new parts have been obtained
(particularly gaskets, and various bolts which
must be renewed), and that all the tools
required are available. Read through the
entire procedure to familiarise yourself with
the work involved, and to ensure that all items
necessary for reassembly of the engine are
to hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, a thread-locking compound will
be required. A tube of suitable sealant will be
required to seal certain Joint faces which are
not fitted with gaskets.
6.4 Measuring a piston ring end gap
using a feeler gauge
bearings, whicli tends to squeeze out tfie oil
film. These loads cause the bearings to flex,
which produces tine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bearing
material will loosen in places, and tear away
from the steel backing. Regular short journeys
can lead to corrosion of bearings, because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off the condensed water and corrosive gases
which form inside the engine. These products
collect in the engine oil, forming acid and
sludge. As the oil is carried to the bearings,
the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing
material.
7 Incon-ect bearing Installation during engine
assembly will also lead to bearing failure.
Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing
lubrication clearance, and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell results in high spots on
the bearing which can lead to failure.
8 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface
with your fingers during reassembly; there is
a risk of scratching the delicate suri'ace, or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.
a As mentioned at the beginning of this
Section, the bearing shells should be renewed
as a matter of course during engine overhaul;
to do otherwise is false economy.
15 Engine overhaul reassembly sequence
16.9 Fitting the oil control spreader ring
2 In under to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be earned out in the
following oreien
1.6 litre petrol
engines
a) Piston rings (see Section 16).
b) Crankshaft (see Section 7 7).
c) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 18).
d) Oil pump (see Chapter 2A).
a) Sump (see Chapter 2A).
f) Flywheel (see Chapter 2A).
g) Cylinder head (see Chapter 2A).
h) Coolant pump (see Chapter 3).
i) Timing belt and sprockets (see Chapter 2A).
i) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapir4A).
2.2 litre
petrol
engines
a) Piston rings (see Section 16).
b) Crankshaft (see Section 17).
c) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 18).
d) Sump (see Chapter 2B).
e) Fiywheei/driveplate (see Chapter 2B).
f) Cylinder head (see Chapter 2Bj.
g) Coolant pump (see Chapter3).
h) Timing chains and sprockets (see Chapter 2B).
I) Timing chain cover (see Chapter 2B).
i) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapter 4 A).
Diesel
engines
a) Piston rings (see Section 16).
b) Crankshaft (see Section 17).
c) Pistons/connecting rod assemblies (see
Section 18).
d) Cylinder head (see Chapter 20 or 2D).
e) Oil pump (see Chapter 2C or 2D),
fl Sump (see Chapter 2C or 2D).
a) Fiywheei/driveplate (see Chapter 2C
or 2D).
It] Coolant pump (see Chapter 3).
II Timing belt, sprockets, tensioner and idler
pulleys (see Chapter 20 or 2D).
j) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (see Chapter 48).
3 At this stage, all engine components should
be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults
repaired. The components should be laid out
(or in Individual containers) on a completely
clean work surface.
16 P i s t o n rings refitting
1 Before refitting the new piston rings, the
ring end gaps must be checked as follows.
2 Lay out the piston/connecting rod
assemblies and the new piston ring sets, so
that the ring sets will be matched with the
same piston and cylinder during the end
gap measurement and subsequent engine
3 Insert the top ring into the first cylinder, and
push it down the bore slightly using the top
of the piston. This will ensure that the ring
remains square with the cylinder wails. Push
the ring down into the bore until it is positioned
16 to 20 mm down from the top edge of the
bore, then withdraw the piston.
4 Measure the end gap using feeler gauges,
and compare the measurements with the
figures given in the Specifications (see
Illustration).
5 If the gap is too small (unlikely If genuine
Vauxhall/Opel parts are used), it must be
enlarged or the ring ends may contact each
other during engine operation, causing serious
damage. Ideally, new piston rings pnaviding the
correct end gap should be fitted, but as a last
resort, the end gap can be Increased by filing
the ring ends very carefully with a fine file. Mount
the file in a vice equipped with soft jaws, slip the
ring over the file with the ends contacting the
file face, and slowly move the ring to remove
material irom tfie ends - take care, as piston
rings are sharp, and are easily broken.
6 With new piston rings, it is unlikely that the
end gap will be too large. If they are loo large,
check that you have the conect rings for your
engine and for the particular cylinder bore
7 Repeat the checking procedure for each
ring in the first cylinder, and then for the rings
in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep
rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
8 Once the ring end gaps have been checked
and it necessary corrected, the rings can be
fitted to the pistons.
9 The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is composed of three sections, and
should be installed first. Fit the lower steel
ring, then the spreader ring, followed by the
upper steel ring (see illustration).
10 With the oil control ring components
installed, the second (middle) ring can be
fitted. It is usually stamped with a mark (JOP)
which must face up, towards the top of the
piston. Note: Always follow the instructions
supplied with the new piston ring sets different manufacturers may specify different
procedures. Do not mix up the top and middle
rings, as they have different cross-sections.
Using two or three old feeler blades, as for
removal of the old rings, carefully slip the ring
into place in the middle groove,
11 Fit the top ring In the same manner,
ensuring that, where applicable, the mark on
the ring is facing up. If a stepped ring is being
fitted, fit the ring with the smaller diameter of
the step uppermost.
12 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
pistons and nngs.
17 C r a n k s h a f t refitting
Note: It
beanng shells are fitted regardless of the
condition of the onginat ones.
1 Refitting the cranltshaft is the first step
In the engine reassembly procedure. It is
assumed at this point that the cylinder block,
cylinder block lower casing (where applicable)
and crankshaft have been cleaned, inspected
and repaired or reconditioned as necessary,
2 Position the cylinder block with the sump/
lower casing mating face uppermost,
3 Clean the bearing shells and the bearing
recesses in both the cylinder block, cylinder
block lower casing (where applicable) and the
caps. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that
all traces of the protective grease are cleaned
off using paraffin. Wipe the shells dry with a
clean lint-free cloth,
4 Note that the crankshaft endfloat is
controlled by thrustwashers located on one
of the main bearing shells. The thmstwashers
may be separate or incorporated into, or
attached to, the bearing shells themselves.
5 If the original bearing shells are being
re-used, they must be refitted to their original
locations in the block or caps.
6 Fit the upper main bearing shells in place
in the cylinder block, ensuring that the tab on
each shell engages in the notch in the cylinder
block (see Illustration). Where separate
thrustwashers are fitted, use a little grease
to stick them to each side of their respective
bearing upper location; ensure that the oilway
gnwves on each thrustwasher face outwards
(away from the block).
1.8 litre
petrol
17.6 ntdng a main bearing shell to the
cylinder block
13 Once all bolts are tightened to the specified
Stage 1 torque, go around again and tighten
all bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle
then go around for once more and tighten all
bolts through the specified Stage 3 angle. It is
recommended that an angle-measuring gauge
is used during the final stages of the tightening,
to ensure accuracy (see illustration). If a
gauge is not available, use vrtiite paint to make
alignment marks between the boit head and
cap prior to tightening; the marks can then be
used to check that the bolt has been rotated
through the correct angle.
14 Once all the bolts have been tightened.
17.7 Ubricate the upper bearing Shells
with clean engine oil then fit the crankstiaft
- 1 . 8 litre petrol engines
inject more sealant down the grooves in the
roar main bearing cap until sealant is seen lo
be escaping through the joints. Once you are
sum the cap grooves are full of sealant, wipe
off all excess sealant using a clean cloth.
15 Check that the crankshaft is free to rotate
smoothly; if excessive pressure is required
to turn the crankshaft, investigate the cause
before proceeding further
16 Check the crankshaft endfloat with
reference to Section 10.
17 Refit/reconnect the piston connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft as described in
Section 18.
18 Refemng to Part A of this Chapter fit a new
left-hand crankshaft oil seal, then refit the oil
pump. sump, flywheel, cylinder head, timing
belt sprocket(s) and fit a new timing belt.
17.10 Lubricate the crankshaft journals
then refit bearing caps Nos 1 to 4 1.8 litre petrol engines
17.11 Fill the side grooves of No 5 bearing
cap with sealant prior to refitting it to ttie
engine - 1 , 8 litre petrol engines
17.12 Tighten the bolts to the specified
Stage 1 t o n ^ e setting . . .
17.13 . . . and then through the specified
Stages 2 and 3 angles - 1.8 litre petrol
engines
12 Working in a diagonal sequence hom the
centre outwands, tighten the main bearing cap
bolts to the specified Stage 1 torque setting
engines
7 Liberally lubricate each bearing shell in the
cylinder block, and lower the crankshaft into
position (see Illustration).
8 If necessary, seat the crankshaft using light
taps from a soft-faced mallet on the crankshaft
tjalance webs.
9 Fit the bearing shells into the bearing caps.
10 Lubricate the bearing shells in the bearing
caps, and the crankshaft journals, then fit
Nos 1, 2, 3 and 4 bearing caps, and tighten
the new bolts as far as possible by hand (see
Illustration).
11 Ensure No 5 bearing cap is clean and dry
then fill the groove on each side of the cap with
sealing compound (Vauxhall/Opel recommend
the use of sealant, part No 90485251, available
from your dealer) (see illustration). Fit the
bearing cap to the engine, ensuring it is fitted
the correct way around, and tighten the new
bolts as far as possible by hand.
17.22 Apply a continuous bead ot sealant
(arrowed) to tlie groove (n the cylinder
block - 2.2 litre petrol engines
2.2 litre petrol
engirtes
19 Liberally lubricate each bearing shell in
the cylinder block, and lower the crankshaft
into position.
20 If necessary, seat the crankshaft using
light taps from a soft-faced mallet on the
crankshaft balance webs.
21 Fit the bearing shells into the cylinder
block lower casing.
22 Ensure that the cylinder block and lower
casing mating surfaces are clean and dry, then
apply a 2 to 5 mm diameter bead of sealant
to the groove in the cylinder block (see
Illustration). Vauxhall/Opei recommend the
use of sealant, part No 90543772, available
from your dealer
23 Locate the lower casing over the
crankshaft and onto the cyiinder block.
24 Fit the twenty new MIO bolls and the
ten MS bolts and lighten fhe bolts as far as
possible by hand.
25 Working in a diagonal sequence from the
centre out wanjs, tighten the twenty MIO lower
casing bolts to the specified Stage 1 torque
setting.
26 Once all MID bolts are tightened to the
specified Stage 1 tongue, go around again and
tighten them through the specified Stage 2
angle then go around once more and tighten
them through the specified Stage 3 angle, II is
recommended that an angle-measuring gauge
IS used during the final stages of the tightening,
to ensure accuracy (see Illustration). If a
gauge is not available, use white paint to
make alignment marks between the bolt head
17.26 Tightenmg the cylinder block lower
casing bolts through the specifled angles 2.2 litre petrol engines
and casing pnor to tightening; the marks can
then be used to check that the t>oit has been
rotated through the conect angle.
27 After tightening all the MIO bolts, tighten
the M8 bolts to the specified torque, working
in a diagonal sequence from the centre
outwards.
28 Check that the crankshaft is free to rotate
smoothly; if excessive pressure is required
to turn the crankshaft, investigate the cause
before pnaceeding further.
29 Check the crankshaft endfioat with
reference to Section 10,
30 Refit/reconnect the piston connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft as descrit>ed in
Section 18.
31 Referring to Part B of this Chapter, fit a
new left-hand crankshaft oil seat, then refit the
sump, flywheei/drivepiate, cyiinder head, and
the timing chains and sprc>ckets.
Diesel
engines
32 Liberally lubricate each bearing shell in
the cylinder block, and lower the crankshaft
into position.
33 If necessary, seat the crankshaft using
light taps from a soft-faced mallet on the
crankshaft balance webs.
34 Fit the bearing shells into the bearing caps.
35 Lubricate the bearing shells in the bearing
caps, and the crankshaft journals, then fit the
caps ensunng they are fitted to their correct
locations and the nght way around. Fit and
V bolts a far I ; possible by
36 Working in a spiral pattern from the centre
outwards, tighten Ihe main bearing cap bolts
to the specified Stage 1 tongue setting.
37 Once all bolts are tightened to the
specified Stage 1 torque, go around again and
tighten all bolts through the specitied Stage
2 angle. If is recommended that an anglemeasuring gauge is used during the final
stages of the tightening, to ensure accuracy.
If a gauge is not available, use white paint to
make alignment marks t>6tween the bolt head
and cap prior to tightening; the marks can
then be used to check that the t>olt has been
rotated through the correct angle.
38 Check thai the crankshaft is free to rotate
smoothly; if excessive pressure Is required
to turn the crankshaft, investigate the cause
before proceeding further.
39 Check the crankshaft endfloat with
reference to Section 10.
40 Refit/reconnect the piston connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft as described in
Section 18.
41 Refening to Part C or D of this Chapter, fit a
new left-hand crankshaft oil seal/housing, then
refit the oil pump, sump, flywheefdriveplate,
cylinder head, timing belt sprocket(s) and fit a
new timing bell.
18 P i s t o n s / c o n n e c t i n g r o d s relitting
Petrol
18.2 Fit the bearing shells making sure
their labs are conectly located In the
connecting rod/cap groove (an-owed)
8.3 Lubricate the piston rings with clean
engine oil
|>
Note: It is recommended that new big-end
bearing shells are fitted regardless of the
condition of the original ones.
1 Clean the backs of the big-end beanng
shells and the recesses in the connecting
njds and big-end caps. If new shells are being
fitted, ensure that all traces ot the protective
grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe the
shells, caps and connecting rods dry with a
lint-free cloth.
2 Press the bearing shells into their locations,
ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in
the notch in the connecting rod and cap (see
Illustration). If there is no tab on the bearing
shell (and no notch in the rod or cap) position
the shell equidistant from each side ol the rod
and cap. If the original beanng shells are being
used ensure they aro refitted in their original
locations.
3 Lubncate the bores, the pistons and piston
rings then lay out each piston/connecting
rod assembly in its respective position (see
engines
4 Lubncate No 1 piston and piston rings,
and check that the ring gaps are correctly
positioned. The gaps in the upper and lower
steel nngs of the oil control nng should be
offset by 25 to 50 mm to the right and left
of the spreader ring gap. The two upper
compression ring gaps should ba offset by
1 SO" to each other (see IIIustation).
5 Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston, then
^8Sa Ensure the piston ring end gaps
are correctly spaced then fit the ring
compressor - petrol engines
18,5b Ensuring the arrow on flie piston
crmm (circled) is pointing towards the
timing belt end ot the engine - petrol engines
18.5c Tap the piston gently into the bore
using handle of a hammer - petrol engines
18,6 Make sure the lug (arrowed) Is facing
the flywheel/drive plate end of the engine petrol engines
through the specified Stage 2 angle, and
finally through the specified Stage 3 angle.
It is recommended that an angle-measuring
gauge is used during the final stages of the
tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a gauge
is not available, use white paint to make
alignment marks between the bolt head and
cap prior to tightening; the mai1
Very difficult,
suitable for expert ;
DIY or professional
Specifications
Tiiermostat
Opening temperatures:
Petrol engines;
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engines
92°C
82°C
90°C
Air conditioning c o m p r e s s o r
Lubricant capacity;
Petrol engines
Diesel engines
120 cc
135cc
Lubricant type (synthetic PAG fluid)
Vauxhail part number 90 509 933/19 49 873
Torque w r e n c h settings
Petrol engine models
Air conditioning compressor mounting bolts
Air conditioning refrigerant pipe block connections
Coolant pump retaining bolts:
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Coolant pump pulley bolts (1.8 litre Zl 8XER engines)
Coolant pump sprocket bolts (2.2 litre engines)
Coolant temperature sensor
Radiator mounting brackets to subframe
Themiostaf housing/cover:
1.8 litre engines:
Z18XE engines
ZISXER engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
Air conditioning compressor mounting bolts
Air conditioning réfrigérât pipe block connections
Coolant pump retaining bolts
Coolant temperature sensor
Radiator mounting brackets to subframe
Thennostat housing/cover
Nm
ibffi
20
20
15
15
8
23
20
8
20
15
6
17
15
6
15
11
20
8
8
15
6
6
20
20
25
20
15
25
15
15
18
15
11
18
1
9
8
3
4
1
Genera! i n f o r m a t i o n
and precautions
The cooling system is of pressurised type,
comprising a coolant pump, a crossflow
radiator, electric cooling fan, and thermostat.
The coolant pump is driven by the auxiliary
drrvsbelf on 1.8 litre Z18XER petrol engines.
On 2.2 litre petrol engines, the coolant pump
Is dnven by the balancer shaft drive chain.
On diesel engines and 1,8 litre Z18XE petrcil
engines the coolant pump is driven by the
timing belt.
The system functions as follows. Cold
coolant from the radiator passes thn^ugh the
bottom hose to the coolant pump, where It
is pumped around the cylinder block, head
passages and heater matrix. Alter cooling
the cylinder bores, combustion surfaces and
valve seats, the coolant reaches the underside
of the thermostat, which Is initially closed.
The coolant passes Ihnaugh the heater, and is
returned to the coolant pump.
When the engine is cold, the coolant
circulates only through the cylinder block,
cylinder head and heater When the coolant
reaches a predetermined temperature, the
thermostat opens and the coolant also passes
through to the radiator As the coolant circulates
through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush
of air when Ihe car is in lonward motion. Ajrtlow
is supplemented by the action of the electric
cooling fan when necessary. Once the coolant
has passed through the radiator, and has
cooled, the cycle Is repeated.
On 1.8 litre 218XER petrol engines, an
electrically-assisted thermostat is fitted.
Engine coolant temperature is monitored by
the engine management system electronic
control unit, via the coolant temperature
sensor In coniunction with information
received from various other engine sensors,
the thermostat opening temperature can be
controlled according to engine speed and
load. During normal engine operation the
thermostat operates conventionally Under
conditions of high engine speed and load, an
electric heating element within the thermostat
Is energised, to cause the thermostat to open
at a lower temperature (typically 90°).
The electric cooling fan, mounted on the
rear of the radiator, is controlled by the engine
management system electronic control unit,
in conjunction with a cooling fan module, At
a predetermined coolant temperature, the fan
is actuated An auxiliary electric cooling Ian is
frtted to models with air conditioning.
An expansion tank is fitted to the lefthand side of the engine compartment to
accommodate expansion of the coolant when
hot.
Warning: Do not attempt to romove
tha expansion (anłt filler cap, or
' disturb any part of tfie cooling
system, while the engine is hot; there is
a high risk of scalding. If the cap must be
A
removed before the engine and radiator
have fully cooled (even though this is not
recommended) the pressure in the cooling
system must first be relieved. Cover the cap
with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding,
and slowly unscrew the filler cap until a
hissing sound can be heard. When the hissing
has stopped, indicating that the pressure has
reduced, stoiviy unscrew the filler cap until it
can be removed; if more hissing sounds are
heard, wait until they have stopped before
unscrewing the cap completely. At all times,
keep well away from the filier cap opening.
• Do not allow antifreeze to come into
contact with the skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills
Immediately, with plenty of water. Never
leave antifreeze lying around in an open
container, or in a puddle on the driveway
or garage floor. Children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze
can be fatal if ingested.
• If the engine is hot, the electric cooling
fan may start rotating even H the engine is
not running; be careful to keep hands, hair
and loose clothing well dear when working
in the engine compartment.
• Refer to Section 10 for precautions to
be observed when working on models
equipped with eir conditioning.
2
Cooling system hoses disconnection and renewal
%
^i;^-
Note: Refer (o the warnings given In Section 1
of this Chapter before proceeding. Do not
attempt to disconnect any hose while the
system is still hat.
1 If the checks described in Chapter 1A or 1B
reveal a faulty hose, it must be renewed as
follows,
2 First drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1A
or 1B). If the coolant is not due for renewal, it may
be re-used If It is collected in a clean container
3 Before disconnecting a hose, first note
Its routing m the engine compartment, and
whether it is secured by any additional
retaining clips or cable-ties. Use a pair of
pliers to release the clamp-type clips, or a
screwdriver to slacken the screw-type clips.
3.9 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the wiring harness connector from the
cooling fan module
then move the clips along the hose, clear of
the relevant Inlet/outlet union. Carefully wori<
the hose free.
4 Depending on engine, some of the hose
attachments may be of the quick-release type.
Where this type of hose Is encountered, lift the
ends of the wire retaining clip, to spread the
clip, then withdraw the hose from the inlet/
outlet union.
5 Nets that the radiator inlet and outlet unions
are fragile; do not use excessive foroe when
attempting to remove the hoses. If a hose
proves to be difficult to remove, try to release
it by rotating the hose ends before attempttng
to free it.
6 When fitting a hose, first slide the clips onto
the hose, then work the hose into position. If
clamp-type clips were originally fitted, it Is a
good idea to use screw-type clips when refitting
the hose. If the hose Is stiff, use a little soapy
water (washing-up liquid is kleal) as a lubricant
or soften the hose by soaking it in hot water,
7 Work the hose into position, checking that
it is conectly routed and secured. Slide each
clip along the hose until it passes over the
flared end of the relevant inlet/outlet union,
before tightening the clips securely
8 Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter l A o r l B .
9 Check thoroughly for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system,
3
Radiator-
^
removal, inspection
and refitting
^
Note: The radiator is removed from below,
complete vi/ith the cooling fan assembly.
Removal
Petrol engine m o d e l s
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover fnam the top of
the engine
3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
4 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter n .
5 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A.
6 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described In Chapter 4A.
7 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the top hose and expansion tank hose fmm
the radiator.
8 Where fitted, disconnect the wiring connector
from the coolant temperature sensor located
on the lower left-hand side of the radiator,
9 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect the
wiring harness connector from the cooling
fan module at the top of the fan housing (see
illustration). Free the wiring harness from the
cable-ties.
3.10a Slacken the bott
the radiator left-hand . .
10 Slacken (but do not remove) the two bolts
securing the radiator left-hand and right-hand
moiinting brackets to the subframe {see
illustrations).
11 Release the radiator upper rubber
mounting bushes on each side from their
guides, and carefully move the top of the
radiator forward.
12 Release the clamp and disconnect the
bottom hose frcim the radiator.
13 On models with air conditioning, undo the
bolt each side securing the condenser upper
mounting brackets to the radlatw. Carefully lift
up or remove the plastic panels on each side of
the radiatcw for improved access, if necessary.
Suitably secure the condenser to the upper
body panel using cable-ties or similar, to retain
It in place when the radiator Is removed.
14 On models with automatic transmission,
detach the protective hng (where fitted) over the
fluid cooler pipe unions at ttie radiator. Using
a small screwdriver, release the quick-release
fitting retaining lugs and disconnect the fitting
from the radiator. Suitably cover the open
unions atter disconnection.
15 Check that all hoses, and connections
are released fnsm the radiator in the engine
compartment, then engage the help of an
assistant to support the radiator.
16 Remove the two bolts securing the
radiator left-hand and right-hand mounting
brackets to the subframe and carefully lower
the radiator down and out from under the car
{see Illustration). Disengage the condenser
lower mounting lugs from the radiator as the
radiator is lowered.
brackets to the subframe
3 J 4 Release the retaining clip (arrowed)
and disconnect the expansion tank hose
from the top of the radiator
3 ^ Undo the Intercooler left-hand charge
air pipe upper retaining bolt (arrowed)
22 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1B
23 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described m Chapter 4B.
24 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the expansion tank hose from the top of the
radiator (see illustration).
25 Release the two retaining clips and
disconnect the top hose from the radiator and
thennostat housing.
26 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the wiring harness connector from the cooling
fan module at the top of the fan housing (see
illustration 3.9). Free the wiring harness trom
the cable-ties.
27 Slackenthetworetalnlngclipsandremove
the upper charge air hose from the turbocharger, and intercooler right-hand charge air
pipe.
28 Slacken the two retaining clips and
disconnect the upper charge air hose from
the throttle body/housing, and intercooler
left-hand charge air pipe.
29 Undo the intercooler left-hand charge air
pipe upper retaining bolt (see illustration).
30 Slacken the retaining clips and remove
the left-hand and right-hand lower charge
air hoses fnam the intercooler and charge air
pipes (see Illustrations)
31 Slacken (but do not remove) the two bolts
securing the radiator left-hand and right-hand
mounting brackets to the subframe (see illustrations 3.10a and 3.10b).
32 Release the radiator upper rubber
mounting bushes on each side from their
guides, and carefully move the top of the
radiator forward.
33 Undo the bolt securing the intercooler
Diesel engine m o d e l s
17 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
18 Remove the plastic cover from tiie top of
the engine.
19 Apply the handbrake, ttien jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacliing and vehicle support).
Undo the ten bolts and remove the engine
undertray
20 Remove the front bumper as descnbed in
Chapter 11.
21 Remove the headlights as described in
Chapter 12.
3.3ab . . . and nght-hand lower charge air
hoses from the intercooler and charge air
pipes
3.33 Undo the botHarrowed) securing
the intercooler right-hand charge air pipe
upper mounting to the radiator
right-hand charge air pipe upper mounting to
the radiator (see Illustration).
34 Undo the bolt each side securing the
intercooler left-hand and right-hand charge
air pipe lower mountings to the radiator (see
niustrations).
35 Release the clamp and disconnect the
bottom hose from the radiator,
36 On models with air conditioning, undo the
two bolts secunng the receiver-dryer to the
right-hand side of the radiator (see lUustration),
37 Undo the bolt each side securing the
intercooler upper mounting bracl^ets to the
radiator (see illustration). Carefully lift up or
remove the plastic panels on each side of the
radiator for improved access, if necessary.
Suitably secure the intercooler to the upper
tcdy panel using cable-ties or similar, to retain
it In place when the radiator is removed.
38 On models with automatic transmission,
detacbthepnatectivering (where fitted) overthe
fluid cooler pipe unions at the radiator Using
a small screwdriver, release the puicl<-release
fitting retaining lugs and disconnect the fitting
from the radiator Suitably cover the open
unions after disconnection.
39 Check that all hoses, and connections
are released from the radiator in the engine
compartment, then engage the help of an
assistant to support the radiator
40 Remove the two bolts securing tbe
radiator left-hand and right-hand mounting
brackets to the subframe and carefully lower
the radiator down and out from under the
car (see illustration 3.16). Disengage the
3.36 On models with air conditioning,
undo the two bolts (arrowed) securing the
receiver-dryer to the radiator
3.34a Undo the bolt (arrowed) securing the
intercooler left-hand . . .
Inspection
41 If the radiator has been removed due
to suspected blockage, reverse-flush it as
described in Chapter 1A or 1B.
42 Clean dirt and debris from the radiator
fins, using an airline (in which case, wear eye
protection) or a soft brush.
Caution: Be carefui, as the fins are easily
damaged, and are sharp.
43 If necessary, a radiator specialist can
perform a 'flow test' on the radiator, to
establish whetiier an internal blockage exists.
44 A leaking radiator must be refened to a
specialist for permanent repair Do not attempt
to weld ot solder a leaking radiator
45 In an emergency minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured by using a suitable radiator
sealant (in accordance with its manufacturer's
instructions) with the radiator fitted in the
vehicle,
46 Inspect the radiator mounting rubbers,
and renew them if i
Refitting
47 Refitting is a reversal of removai, beanng
in mind the following points.
Ensure that the intercooler or condenser (as
applicable) lower mountings are conectly
engaged with the radiator when refitting,
b) Ensure that all hoses are correctly
reconnected, and their retaining clips
securely tightened.
3,37 Undo the bolt (arrowed) each side
securing the intercooler upper mounting
brackets to the radiator
3.34b . . . and right-hand charge air pipe
lower mountings to the radiator
c) On completion, refill the cooling system
as described in Chapter lA or IB.
dj On models with automatic transmission,
check and if necessary top-up the
automatic transmission fluid level with
reference to the 'Automatic transmission
fluid - draining and refilling' procedures
contained in Chapter 7B.
4
Thermostat removal and refitting
^
Removai
1.6 litre Z18XE petrol engine m o d e l s
1 The thermostat is located on the front righthand side of the cylinder head, and is integral
with its housing.
2 Disconnect the battery negative temilnal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chaptei^,
3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the tnsnt
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the plastic cover from the top of the engine,
4 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A,
5 Loosen the clips and disconnect the top
hose and throttle housing coolant hose from
the thermostat housing.
6 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
coolant temperature sensor on the housing.
7 Unbolt and remove the housing trom
the cylinder head, then remove the gasket.
Thoroughly clean the contact surfaces of the
housing and cylinder head.
1.8 litre ZISXER petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
8 The thermostat is located in a housing
attached to the left-hand side of the cylinder
head, and is integral with the housing cover.
9 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter^.
10 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
11 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A.
12 Undo the retaining nut and detach the
wiring harness bracket from the thermostat
housing,
13 Disconnect the thermostat wiring
14 Release the clips and disconnect the
radiator hose trom the thermostat cover
15 Unscrew the four bolts and remove the
thermostat cover trcim the housing.
16 Thoroughly clean the housing and cover
contact surfaces.
2.2 litre petrol engine m o d e i s
17 The thermostat is located on the lefthand rear of the cylinder head, over the transmission.
18 Disconnect the naitorv negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tiie battery in the
Reference C nan ton.
19 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and suooort it on axle
stands (see jacHina ana venicie support).
20 Drain the cooiino avstem as described in
Chapter 1A,
21 Release the clip and disconnect the top
hose from the thermostat cover.
22 Unscrew the bolts and remove the
cover from the thermostat housing (see
illustration),
23 Lift the thermostat from the housing (see
illustration). Remove the seal from the rim of
the thermostat and discard it. Obtain a new
one. Clean the contact surfaces ol the cover
and housing.
Diesel engine m o d e l s
24 The thermostat is located on the left-hand
end of the cylinder head, and is integral with
the housing.
25 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
26 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
27 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
28 Drain the coding system as described in
Chapter IB,
29 Release the two retaining clips and
disconnect the charge air hose trom the
throttle housing, and intercooler charge air
pipe (see Illustration).
30 Release the clips and disconnect the
hoses from the thennostat housing.
31 Disconnect the coolant temperature
sensor wiring connector.
32 Unscrew the nut and release the coolant
pipes from the stud at the base of the
thermostat housing.
33 Unbolt the thermostat housing from the
cylinder head. Clean away ail traces of gasket
from the housing and cylinder head.
ReftWng
34 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tit
a new gasket/seal (where applicable) and
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque. Refill the cooling system as descht>ed
in the relevant Part of Chapter 1.
4.22 Removing the tt
5
Electric c o o l i n g f a n removal and refitting
A
Warning: If the engine is hot, the
cooling fan may start up at any
time. Take extra precautions when
working in the vicinity of the fan.
Removal
1.8 litre Z18XE petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
3 Unclip the radiator hose and detach the
plastic panel at the front of the battery box.
4 Poll out the locking bar and disconnect the
wiring harness connector from the cooling fan
module at the side of the fan housing. Free
the wiring harness from the cable-ties.
5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front ot the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 Release the four retaining clips and detach
the front bumper lower panel from the
subframe.
7 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fan
housing to the radiator; one at each upper
corner ot the housing.
8 Carefully lift the fan housing upwards to
disengage it from the lower guides on the
radiator, and remove the housing from the
engine compartment.
9 To remove the fan motor, disconnect the
wiring connector and unclip the wiring harness
from the tan housing. Undo the three retaining
bolts and remove the fan from the housing.
10 To remove the cooling fan module, undo
the retaining screw and unclip the unit from
the fan housing.
4.23 Removing the thermostat from flie
housing
three retaining lugs ana pusn tne resondor
rearward. Using a screwdriver, release the
locking clip and remove the resonator.
14 Release the retaining clips and detach Itie
coolant hoses from the tan housing,
15 Disconnect the cooling fan wiring harness
at the connector on the side of the fan
housing,
16 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fan
housing to the radiator; one at each upper
corner of the housing.
17 Carefully lift the fan housing upwards to
disengage it from the lower guides on the
radiator, and remove the housing from the
engine compartment.
18 To remove the fan motor, undo the bolt
securing the wiring connector to Ihe fan
housing, then unclip the wiring. Undo the
three retaining bolts and remove the fan from
the housing.
2.2 litre petrol engine m o d e l s
19 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
20 Undo the retaining bolt and unclip the air
intake resonator from above the radiator.
21 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the wiring harness connector from Ihe cooling
fan module at the top of the fan housing. Free
the wiring hamess from the cable-ties.
22 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fan
housing to the radiator, one at each upper
corner ot the housing.
23 Carefully lift the fan housing upwards to
disengage it from the lower guides on the
radiator and remove the housing from the
engine compartment.
1.8 litre Z18XER petrol engine m o d e l s
11 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnechrig the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
12 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Chapter 4A.
13 Undo the bolt securing the resonator to
the front upper crossmember. Depress the
4.29 Disconnect the charge air hose
from tho throttle housing, and Ir
charge air pipe
&2A U«k) the * r e e retaking boHs(amiwed)arKl remove the fan from
the housing
5.27 Unscrew the two retaining bolts (arrowed) and Irft the fan
housing from the lower guides on the radiator
the fan housing from the lower guides c
radiator (see lllusteation)28 To remove the fan motor(s), dis
the wiring connector at the relevant motor and
unclip the wiring harness from the fan housing.
Undo the three retaining bolts and remove the
fan from the housing (see illustration 5.24).
29 To remove the cooling fan module, undo
the retaining screw and unclip the unit from
the fan housing (see Illustration).
Refitting
5.29 Undo the retaining screw (anowed)
and unclip the cooling (an module from the
fan housing
30 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6
C o o l a n t t e m p e r a t u r e sensor
- testing, removal and refitting
^
^
24 To remove the fan motor(s), disconnect
the wiring connector at the relevant motor and
unclip the wiring harness from the fan housing.
Undo the three retaining bolts and remove the
fan from the housing (see illustration).
25 To remove the cooling fan module, undo
the retaining screw and unclip the unit from
the fan housing.
1 Testing of the coolant temperature sensor
must be entrusted to a Vauxhali/Opel dealer,
who will have the necessary specialist
diagnostic equipment.
Diesel engine m o d e l s
Removal
26 Remove the radiator as described in
Section 3.
27 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and lift
2 Partially drain the cooling system with
reference to Chapter l A o r IB. Alternatively it
change the sensor quickly with
minimal loss of coolant by first releasing any
pressure from the cooling system. With the
engine cold, temporarily remove the expansion
tank cap.
3 Where fitted, remove the plastic cover over
the top of the engine.
1.6 litre Z18XE petrol engine m o d e l s
4 The coolant temperature sensor is located
on the thermostat housing on the right-hand
end of the cylinder head.
5 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unscrew and remove the sensor from the
thennostat housing. If the cooling system has
not been drained, either insert the new sensor
or fit a blanking plug to prevent further loss of
coolant.
1.8 litre ZISXER petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
6 The coolant temperature sensor is located
in the thennostat housing at the left-hand end
of the cylinder head (see illustration).
7 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unlock the retaining clamp and remove the
sensor from the thermostat housing. If the
cooling system has not been drained, either
insert the new sensor or tit a blanking plug to
prevent further loss of coolant,
2.2 litre petrol engine m o d e l s
8 The coolant temperature sensor is located
on the thermostat housing at the left-hand
end of the cylinder head (see Illustration).
9 Disconnect fhe wiring connector, then
unscrew and remove the sensor from the
thermostat housing. If the cooling system has
not been drained, either insert the new sensor
or fit a blanking plug to prevent further loss of
coolant.
Diesel engine m o d e l s
6.6 Coolant temperature sensor location
(an-owed) - 1 . 8 litre ZISXER petrol engine
models
e recirculating air valve
servo motor
the servo lever with the air valve lever as the
unit is refitted.
Recirculating
Mixed air valve servo motor
air vaive housing
Removal
19 Remove the heater blower motor as
descht>ed previously.
20 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
recirculating air valve servo motor and release
the wiring harness from the clip on the air
valve housing (see illustration).
21 Undo the retaining bolt and manoeuvre
the housing out from under the facia.
Remting
22 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the housing air duct is correctly seated.
Recirculating
servo motor
air valve
Removal
23 Remove the recirculating air valve housing
as described previously,
24 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the motor from the housing (see illustration).
Removal
26 Remove the glovebox and the facia
footwell trim panel on the passenger's side as
described in Chapter 11.
27 Disconnect the wiring connector from
the servo motor, then undo the two retaining
bolts. Disengage the operating lever from the
air valve and remove the servo motor (see
illustration).
Refitting
28 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Engage
the servo lever with the air valve lever as the
unit is refitted.
Heater
matrix
Removal
29 Working in fhe engine compartment, use
two hose clamps to clamp the hoses leading
to the heater matrix. The hoses are located
on the bulkhead, just above the steering
gear Alternatively, drain the cooling system
completely as described in Chapter 1A
9,27 Mixed air valve servo motor wiring connector (A) and
retaining bolts (B)
9.24 Recirculating air valves,
retaining boHs (arrow.
clip secunng the left-hand and right-hand
heater hoses to the heater matrix pipe stubs,
and disconnect the hoses from the stubs.
Be prepared for some loss of cooiant as the
hoses are released, by placing cloth rags
beneath them.
31 Remove the facia footwell thm panel on
the driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
32 Undo the three bolts and remove the
heater matrix cover (see Illustration).
33 Undo the two bolts and release the
clamps securing the heater pipes to the matrix
(see Illustration). Be prepared for coolant
spillage as the pipes are disconnected, and
place some cloths or absorbent material over
the carpet.
34 Pull the heater matrix from its location and
remove it from the car
Refitting
35 Refitting is a reversal ot « jval, bearing
in mind the following:
^ Push ihe securing wire clip back
into position on the heater hose end
mtings. then push the hoses back onto
the matrix pipe stubs. Ensure that the
wire clips securely lock the hoses in
position.
b) If the cooling system was completely
drained, refill as described In Chapter 1A
9.32 Undo the Hiree bolts (arrowed) and remove the heater matrix
cover
9.33 Undo tho two bolts and release the clamps (anTjwed)
securing the heater pipes to the matrix
41 Remove the windscreen wiper arms as
described in Chapter 12,
42 Pull up the rubber weatherseal from the
flange at the rear of the engine compartment.
Heater control assembly
Carefully release the water deflector by pulling
it away from the windscreen to release the
Removal
retaining clips. Withdraw the water deflector
36 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise and disconnect the washer hose.
out the heater control assembly fnsm the facia 43 Remove the pollen filter as described in
(see illustration).
Chapter 1Aor IB,
37 Disconnect the wiring from the rear of the 44 Using a small screwdriver, lift up the wire
control assembly (see Illustration).
clip securing the left-hand and right-hand
heater hoses to the heater matrix pipe stubs,
Refitting
and disconnect the hoses from the stubs.
38 Refitting Is a reversal of removal.
Be prepared for some loss ot coolant as the
Air distribution
housing
hoses are released by placing cloth rags
beneath them.
Note: On models with air conditioning, it is
45 Release the matrix pipe stub aibtier seal
not possible to remove the air distribution
from the bulkhead by pushing it Inward (the
housing without opening the refrigerant circuit
(see Sections 10 and 11). Have the refrigerant seal remains on the pipe stubs).
46 On models with air conditioning, undo
discharged at a dealer service department or
the nut securing the refrigerant pipe block
an automotive air conditioning repair facility
connection to the expansion valve and
before proceeding.
withdraw the refrigerant pipes from the valve
Removal
(see illuBtration). Note that new seals for the
39 Drain the cooling system as described in
refrigerant pipes will be required for refitting.
Chapter l A o r t B .
Suitably plug or cover the disconnected pipes.
40 Remove the complete facia assembly 47 Release the expansion valve rubber seal
and the facia crossmember as described in from the bulkhead by pushing it inward (the
Chapter 11.
seal remains on the valve).
Of 1B. If the heater hoses were clamped
prior to removal, top-up the cooling
system as described In 'Weekly checks'.
9.37 . . .then disconnect the wiring trom
tne rear oi tne control assemoiy
9.46 Undo the nut (arrowed) securing the
refrigerant pipe block connection to the
expansion valve
48 Disconnect the wiring connectors at
the heater blower motor and blower motor
resistor
49 Working inside the vehicle withdraw the
air distribution housing from the bulkhead.
Note: Keep the matrix unions uppermost as
the housing is removed, to prevent coolant
spillage. Mop-up any spilt coolant Immediately,
and wipe the affected area with a damp cloth
to prevent staining.
Refitting
of removal. On
50 Refitting is the rev
iling system as
completion, refill the
IB.On modeis with
described inChapterIA
air conditioning, have the system evacuated,
charged and leak-tested by the specialist who
it.
10 Air c o n d i t i o n i n g s y s t e m general information
and precautions
General
information
1 Air conditioning is standard on top of the
range models, and optional on certain othet
models. 11 enables the temperature of Incoming
air to be lowered, and also dehumidifies the
air, which makes for rapid demisting and
increased comfort,
2 The cooling side of the system works in
the same way as a domestic refrigerator.
Refrigerant gas is drawn into a belt-driven
compressor, and passes into a condenser
mounted in front of the radiator, where tl
loses heat and becomes liquid. The liqukJ
passes through an expansion valve to an
evaporator where it changes from liquid under
high pressure to gas under low pressure.
This change is accompanied by a drop in
temperature, which cools the evaporator. The
refrigerant returns to the compressor, and the
cycle begins again.
3 Air blown through the evaporator passes
to the heater assembly, where it is mixed
with hot air blown through the heater matnx.
to achieve the desired temperature in the
passenger compartment.
4 The heating side of the system works
in the same way as on models without air
conditioning (see Section 8).
5 The operation ot the system is controlled
electronically. Any problems wiin tne sysiBrii
should be referred to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer
or an air conditioning specialist.
Air conditioning
service
ports
6 The high-pressure service port is located
just in front of the air cleaner bousing (see
Illustration).
7 The low-pressure service port is located
at the front right-hand side of the engine
compartment, just behind the body front
Precautions
8 H is necessary to obsen/e special precautions
whenever dealing with any part of the system, its
associated components, and any items which
necessitate disconnection ofthe system.
Warning: Ttie refrigeration circuit
contains a liquid
refrigerant.
Tills refrigerant
is
potentially
dangerous, and should only be handled by
guaiified persons. If it is splashed onto the
sIdn, it can cause frostbite. It is not itself
poisonous, but in the presence of a nailed
fíame it forms a poisonous gas; inhalation of
tile vapour through a lighted cigarette could
prove fatal. Uncontrolled discharging of the
refrigerant is dangerous, and potentially
damaging to the environment. Do not
disconnect any part of the system unless
It has been discharged by a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer or an air conditioning specialist
Caution:
Da not operate
the
air
conditioning system if it is known to be
Short of refrigerant, as this may damage
the compressor.
A
11 Air c o n d i t i o n i n g
sremovai
y s t e m cand
o m prefitting
onents -
A
IjS
Warning: The air
conditioning
system is under high pressure. Do
not loosen any fittings or remove
6 Disconnect the compressor wiring connector.
7 Unbolt the compressor from the cylinder
blook/crankcase/sump, then withdraw the
compressor downwards from under the
vehicle.
tO.e Air conditioning system
high-pressure service port (A) and
low-pressure service port (B)
any components until after the system
has been discharged. Air
conditioning
refrigerant should be properly discharged
into an approved type of container at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air condHloning repair facility capable of
handling R 134a refngerant Cap or plug the
pipe lines as soon as they are disconnected,
to prevent Ihe entry of moisture. Always
wear eye protection when disconnecting
air conditioning system tittlngs*
Note: This Section refers to the components
of the air conditioning system itself - refer to
Sections B and 9 for details of components
common to the heating/ventilation system.
Compressor
Removal
1 Have the refrigerant discharged at a dealer
service department or an automotive air
conditioning repair facility,
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
ihe front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter l A o r f B .
5 With the system discharged, undo the
retaining bolt(s) and disconnect the refrigerant
pipes from the compressor. Discard the O-ring
seals - new ones must be used when refitting.
Suitably cap the open fittings immediately to
keep moisture and contamination out of the
Refitting
8 Refit the compressor in the reverse order oí
removal: renew all seals disturbed.
9 If you are installing a new compressor, refer
to the compressor manufacturer's instroctions
for adding refrigerant oil to the system.
10 Have the system evacuated, charged and
leak-tested by the specialist that discharged it.
11 After installing a new compressor, always
observe the following running-in procedure:
1) Open aii instnjment panel air outlet flaps.
2) Start vehicle engine and statiilise idle
speed for approximately 5 seconds.
3} Switch fan to ma^mum speed.
4) Switch on the air conditioning and let it mn
for at least 2 minutes witiiout intenuption
at engine ^peed under 1500 rpm.
Evaporator
Removal
12 Have the refngerant discharged at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
13 Remove the windscreen wiper motor and
linkage as described in Chapter 12.
14 Undo the nut secunng the refrigerant
pipe biock connection to the expansion valve
and withdraw the refrigerant pipes fram the
valve (see Illustration 9.46). Note that new
seals for the refrigerant pipes will t>e required
for refitting. Suitably plug or cover the
disconnected pipes.
15 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the expansion valve (see illustrations).
16 Remove the two seals from the evaporator
pipe stubs (see Illustration). Note that new
seals will be required for refitting.
17 Rotate the evaporator pipe retaining plate
to release it from one pipe stub, then slide the
plate sideways off the other pipe stub (see
Illustration).
18 Release the rubber seal from the bulkhead
then remove the seal "rom the pipe stubs (see
illustration).
19 Insert a small screwdriver through the
slots in the housing and depress the tabs of
11.16 Remove the two seals
evaporator pipe stubs
11.17 Rotate the pipe retaining plate to
release it fr<»n one pipe stub, then slide
the plete off the other pipe stub
the evaporator pipe retaining plate. Lift up the
retaining plate and remove it from the housing
(see illustrations).
20 Remove the recirculating air valve housing
as described in Section 9.
21 Undo the eight retaining bolts and remove
the evaporator cover from the side of the air
distribution housing (see Illustration).
22 Carefully pull the evaporator out of the air
distribution housing (see illustration).
Refitting
23 Refitting is the reverse of removal ensuring
that all disturbed pipe seals are renewed.
24 Have the system evacuated, charged and
leak-tested by the specialist who discharged
It.
Condenser
R e m o v a l - petrol engine m o d e l s
25 Have the refrigerant discharged at a
11.19a Depress the tabs of the evaporator
pipe retaining plate with a screwdriver . . .
11.22 Careftjlly pull the
the air distribution housing
11.18 Release the rubber seal from the
bulkhead tiien remove the seal from the
pipe shibs
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
26 Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to Disconnecting (he battery in the
Reference Chapter),
27 Remove the fnsnt bumper as descriljed In
Chapter 11,
28 Undo the retaining nuts and disconnect
the refrigerant pipe connector blocks from
the condenser and receiver-dryer. Discarct the
seals - new ones must be used when refitting.
Suitably cap the open fittings immediately to
keep moisture and contamination out of the
system.
29 Slacken (but do not remove) the two bolts
securing the radiator left-hand and right-hand
mounting brackets to the subframe (see
illustrations 3.1 Oa and 3.1 Ob).
30 Release the radiator upper rubber mounting
bushes on each side from their guides, and
carefully move the top of the radiator fonwand.
31 Undo the bolt each side securing the
condenser upper mounting brackets to
the radiator. Carefully lift up or remove the
plastic panels on each side of the radiator for
improved access, if necessary.
32 Carefully lift the condenser upwards,
^engage the lower mounting lugs from the
diator and remove the condenser fnam the
ungme compartment.
33 If required, remove the receiver-dryer from
the condenser as described In paragraphs 44
and 45.
Removal - diesel engine m o d e l s
34 Have the refrigerant discharged at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
35 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery In the
Reference Chapter).
36 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11,
37 Undo the retaining nuts and disconnect
the upper and lower refrigerant pipe connector
blocks fnsm the condenser (see illustration).
Discard the seals - new ones must be
used when refitting. Suitably cap the Open
fittings Immediately to keep moisture and
contamination out of the system.
38 Undo ihe bolt each side securing the
condenser upper mounting brackets to the
intercooler (see illustration).
S9 Carefully lift the condenser upwards,
disengage the lower mounting lugs from the
intercooler and remove the condenser from
the engine compartment (see illustration}.
11.19b . . . then im up the retaining plate
and remove It from the housing
block retaining nut (anvwed)
11.38 Condenser left-hand upper
inting bracket retaining bolt (arrowed)
Refitting - all m o d e l s
40 Refitting is the reverse of removal ensuring
that all disturbed pipe seals are renewed.
41 Have the system evacuated, charged and
leak-tested by the specialist who discharged it.
Receiver-dryer
Removal - petrol e n g i n e m o d e l s
42 Have the refrigerant discharged at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
43 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
44 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
45 Undo the retaining nuts and disconnect
the refrigerant pipe connector blocks from
the condenser and receiver-diyer. Dlscand the
seals - new ones must be used when refitting.
Suitably cap the open fittings immediately to
keep moisture and contamination out of the
system.
46 Undo the two retaining boits and remove
the receiver-dryer from the condenser.
R e m o v a l - diesel engine m o d e l s
47 Have trie refrigerant discharged at a
dealer service department or an automotive
air conditioning repair facility.
48 Disconnect Itie battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chaptei^.
49 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Undo the ten bolts and remove the engine
undertray
50 Remove the frt>nt bumper as descnbed in
Chapter 11.
51 Undo the retaining nut and disconnect the
refrigerant pipe upper connector block from
the condenser. Discard the seal - a new one
must be used when refitting. Suitably cap the
open fittings immediately to keep moisture
and contamination out of the system.
52 Undo the bolt securing the intercooler
right-hand charge air pipe upper mounting to
the radiator (see illustration 3.33).
53 Slacken the retaining clips and remove
the right-hand lower charge air hose from
the intercooler and charge air pipe (see
illustration 3.30b).
54 Undo the bolt secunng the refrigerant pipe
bracket and intercooler right-hand charge
air pipe lower mounting to the radiator (see
illusb-ation 3.34b).
55 Slacken (but do not remove) the two bolts
securing the radiator left-hand and right-hand
mounting brackets to the subframe (see
illustrations 3.10a and 3.10b).
56 Release the radiator upper rubber
mounting bushes on each side from their
guides, and carefully move the top of the
radiator forward.
57 Undo the retaining nuts and disconnect
J Lift the condenser upwards and
iglug
(arrowed) on each side
the refrigerant pipe connector blocks from
the condenser and receiver-dryer Discand the
seals - new ones must be used when refitting.
Suitably cap the open fittings immediately to
keep moisture and contamination out ot the
system.
58 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the receiver-dryer from fhe radiator. Withdraw
the receiver-dryer downwanJs and remove it
from under the car.
R e f i t t i n g - a l l models
59 Refitting is the reverse of removal ensuring
that all dlsturtDed pipe seals are renewed.
60 Have Hie system evacuated, charged and
leak-tested by the specialist who discharged
it.
Chapter 4 Part A:
Fuel and exhaust systems - petrol engines
Contents
Section number
Accelerator pedal/posltlon sensor - removal and refitting
Air cleaner assembly and intake ducts - removal and refitting
Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting
Exhaust system - general information, removal and refitting
Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting
Fuel Injection system - depressurisation
Fuel injection system components - testing
Fuel Injection systems - general infonnation
Fuel supply pump - removal and refitting
3
2
16
17
6
5
11
ID
7
Section number
Fuel tank - removal and refitting
8
General information and precautions
1
Inlet manifold - removal and refitting
15
Simtec 71.5 injection system components - removal and refitting . . 12
SImtec 75,1 injection system components - removal and refitting . . 1 3
Simtec 81.1 injection system components - removal and refitting . . 1 +
Throttle housing - removal and refitting
9
Unleaded petrol - general infomiation and usage
4
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
%
1
Falrty easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
Fairly (ifficult,
^
suitable for c o m p e t e n t ^
DIY mechanic
3^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult.
35
Specifications
System type
1.8 Ittre engines:
Z18XE
Z18XER
2.2 litre engines
Simtec 71.5 multi-point injection
Simtec 75,1 mutti-point injection
SimtecSI.I high-pressure direct injection
Fuel system data
1,8 litre engines:
Fuel supply pump type
Fuel pump regulated constant pressure
Specified idle speed
Idle mixture GO content
2.2 litre engines:
Fuel pump type:
Supply pump
High-pressure pump
Fuel supply pump deliveiy pressure
Fuel system operating pressure
Specified idle speed
Idle mixture CO content
Recommended futí
Minimum octane rating
Electric, immersed in tank
3.8 bar
Mot adjustable - contnalled by ECU
Hot adjustable - controlled by ECU
Electric, immersed in tank
Ivlechanlcal, driven by inlet camshaft
4.2 bar
40 to 110 bar
Not adjustable ~ controlled by ECU
Not adjustable - controlled by ECU
95 RON unleaded (UK premium unleaded)
Leaded fuel or LRP must NOT be used
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
5:
Torque wrench settings
Nm
Accelerator pedal position sensor nuts
Camsiiaft sensor*
Cranl Mhough the underbonnet-mounted
control units will tolerate normal
system must be depressurlsed (see Section 5).
underbonnet conditions, they can be
' ^^^re must be taken when disconnecting the
adversely affected by excess heat or
""^s. When disconnecting a fuel union or
moisture.
If using welding equipment or
* ® '^"1°'^
<=I^P screw slowly,
pressure-washing equipment in the vicinity
^° ^^ord sudden uncontrolled fuel spillage,
of an electronic contml unit, take care not
^ake adequate fire precautions,
to direct heat, or jets of water or steam, at
"
woiking on fue\ system components,
the unit If this cannot be avoided, remove
scrupulous cleanliness must be observed,
tlie control unit from the vehicle, and
f ^ care must be aken not to introduce any
protect its wiring plug with a plastic bag.
^°<^^Sn matter into fuel lines or components.
c) Before disconnerrting any wiring, or
*
carrying out any work involving
removing components, always ensure that
disconnection of fuel lines, it is advisable to
fhe ignition is switched off.
connections for leaks; pressurise
d) After working on fuel injection/engine
system by switching the ignition on and
management system components, ensure
™ several times.
Precautions
^'^'^^^
that all wiring is correctly reconnectes
before reconnecting the battery or
switching on the ignition.
Warning: Many of ttie procedures
In tilts Ctiapterrequire the removal
of fuel lines and
connections,
which may result in some fuel spillage.
Before carrying out any operation on the
fuel system, refer to the precautions given
In 'Safety first!' at the beginning of this
manual, and follow them Impiicitly. Petrol is
a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid, and
the precautions necessary when handling
it cannot tie overstressed.
Note: Residual pressure will remain in the
fuel lines long after the vehicle was last
used. Before disconnecting any fuel line, first
dépressurise the fuel system as describeit m
Section 5.
A
:
•2 Air cleaner a s s ^ b l y
and mtalr(2)...
2 Remove the driver's side lower facia panel
as described In C h a p t w l l .
3 Working in the driver's footwell under the
facia, disconnect the wiring from the top of
the accelerator pedal/positron sensor (see
illustration).
4 Unscrew the three mounting nuts, and
withdraw the sensor from the bulkhead.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
4
Unleaded petrolgeneral infomiation and usage
'
Note; The information given in this Chapter
is conect at the time of writing. If updated
Refitting
5
Fuel injection system -
3 Accelerator pedaï/
position sensor-
removal and refitting
3.3 Accelerator pedal/position s«isor
wiring connector (A) and mounting nuts (B)
^
ssurisation
A
6 Refitting is the reverse of removal, making
;ir intake ducts/hoses are securely
recor scted.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
information Is thought to be required, check
with a Vauxhall/Opel dealer. If traveling abroad,
consult one of the motoring organlsaeons (or a
similar authority) for advice on the fuel avallaUe.
All petrol models are designed to run on
fuel with a minimum octane rating of 95 RON.
However, if unavailable, 91 octane may be
used on 1.8 litre engines only. 2.2 litre engines
must not be njn on 91 octane fuel.
All models have a catalytic converter, and
so must be run on unleaded fuel only. Under
no ciniumstances should leaded fuel or LRP
be used, as this will damage the converter
Super unleaded petrol can also be used
in all models if wished, though there is no
advantage in doing so.
Warning: Refer to the warning
note
in Section
1
before
proceeding.
The
following
procedure will merely relieve the pressure
in the fuel system - remember that fuel will
still be present in the system components,
and take precautions accordingly before
disconnecting any of them.
1 The fuel system referred to In this Section
IS defined as the tank-mounted fuel pump,
the fuel filter, the fuel injectors, and the metal
pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel lines
between these components. All these contain
Note 1: Vauxhall/Opet special too! m-797 tor
suitable alternative) will be required to remove
and refit the fuel pump cover lodging ring.
Note 2: A new fuel pump cover sealing ring
will be required on refitting.
Removal
•e connection valve
(arrowed) - 2.2 litre engines
5,3a Fuel pressure connection valve
(arrowed) - 1.8 litre ZISXER engines
fuel which will be under pressure while the
engine is running, and/or while the ignition is
switched on. The pressure will remain for some
time after the ignition has been switched off,
and it must be relieved in a controlled fashion
when any of these components are disturt)ed
for s. icing w
e the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
3 Locate the fuel pressure connection valve
which Is fitted to the fuel rail. On 1.8 litre Z18XE
engines it can be found on the top, right-hand
end of the fuel rail. On 1.8 litre Zl 8XER engines
it can be found on the top, left-hand end of ttie
fuel rail. On 2.2 litre engines the fuel pressure
connection valve is located on the fuel inlet
pipe connection on the high-pressure fuel
pump (see illustrations).
4 Unscrew the cap from the valve and position
lect the wiring connector from
a container beneath the v^ve. Hold a wad of
rag over the valve and relieve the pressure in
the fuel system by depressing the valve core
with a suitable screwdriver. Be prepared tor
the squirt of fuel as the valve core is depressed
and catch it with the rag. Hold the valve core
down until no more fuel is expelled from the
valve.
5 Once all pressure is relieved, securely refit
the valve cap.
6
Fuel g a u g e sender unit -
^
removal and refitting
^
A
Warning: Refer to the warning note
in Section 1 tiefore proceeding.
6.7 Compress the clips located oi
side of Ihe fuel hose fitlrng and e i
fitbng off of Its union
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the batten/ In the
Reference Chapter).
2 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in Section 5.
3 Fold the rear seat cushion fonwards or
alternatively remove the cushion as described
in Chapter 11.
4 Lift up the flap in the carpet to reveal the
fuel tank access cover (see illustration).
5 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise the
plastic access cover from the floor (sea
illustration).
6 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
fuel supply pumpcover, and tape theconnector
to the vehicle body to prevent it disappearing
behind the tank (see Illustration).
7 Mark the fuel hoses for identification
purposes. The hoses are equipped with quickrelease fittings to ease removal. To disconnect
each hose, compress the clips located on
each side of the fitting and ease the fitting off
of Its union (see Illustration). Plug the hose
ends to minimise fuel loss,
8 Using the Vauxhall/Opel special tool,
unscrew the locking ring and remove it from
the tank (see illustration).
9 Make identification marks on the fuel pump
cover and the body to ensure that the cover is
refitted in its original position. There may be
an anow stamped on the coven If so note its
direction,
10 Carefully lift the fuel pump cover away
from tank until the wiring connectors can
be disconnected from its underside (sea
illustration).
11 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the fuel supply hose from the underside of the
fuel pump cover. Where fitted, also disconnect
the fuel return hose quick-release fitting trom
the underside of the cover (see Illustration).
Remove the fuel pump cover and collect the
sealing ring trom the top ot the tank,
12 The fuel gauge sender unit is clipped to
Using the Vauxhall/Opel special tool,
the locking ring and remove It
from the tank
the side of the fuel supply pump. Depress
the retaining clip then slide the sender unit
upwards to release it from the pump (see
iflustrations}.
13 Manoeuvre the sender unit through the
fuel tank aperture, taking great care not
damage the float arm.
RBfitting
14 Race a new sealing ring in position on the
top of the fuel tank.
15 Manoeuvre the sender unit carefully In
through the tank aperture and slide it into
position on the side of the fuel supply pump.
Ensure the sender unit is clipped securely in
position.
16 Reconnect the fuel supply hose and.
where fitted, the return hose to the fuel pump
17 Reconnect the fuel pump and sender unit
wiring connectors to the fuel pump cover
Locate the cover in position on the tank and
align the marks, or direction arrow in the
position noted during removal.
18 Refit the locking ring and tighten it with
the special tool until it locks in place.
19 Reconnect the fuel hoses to the pump
cover, using the mat1ed
in Section 5.
3 Before removing the fuel tank, all fuel
must be drained from the tank. Since a fuel
tank drain plug is not provided, it is therefore
preferable to cany out the removal operation
when the tank is nearly empty. The remaining
fuel can then be siphoned or hand-pumped
from the tank.
4 Remove the exhaust system and relevant
heat shleld(s) as described in Section 17,
5 Unclip the handbrake cables from the
underbody and fuel tank, then tie than to one
side, away from the fuel tank,
6 Disconnect the wiring for the fuel pump and
fuel gauge sender at the underbody connector
in front of the left-hand side of the tank. Unclip
the wiring harness from the two retaining
Clips.
7 Disconnect the fuel feed line, return line
Refitting
4 Ensure the filter is securely fitted to the
base of the pump then carefully manoeuvre
the pump assembly into position, making sure
It clips securely into position,
5 Refit the fuel gauge sender unit as described
in Section 6.
8
Fuel t a n k -
^
removal and refitting
^
A
Warning: Referto tfie warning note
In Section 1 before proceeding.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tiie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
7.3 Inspect the fuel filter for Signs Of
damage or deterioration and renew If
necessary
Sections 6 and 7 respectively Shake the tank
vigorously, and change the fuel as necessary
to remove all contamination from the tank.
Warning: Tiiis procedure sfiould
be carried out in a well-ventiiated
' area, and it is vital to take
adequate fire precautions.
15 Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
earned out by a professional. Do not under
any circumstances attempt any form of DIY
repair to a fuel tank.
A
Refitting
9.4 Disconnect the wiring connector
(arrowed) from the throttle housing 1.8 litre engines
(where applicable) and the evaporative
vent line at the underbody quick-release
connectors on the right-hand side of the tank.
Be prepared for some loss of fuel. A Vauxhail/
Opel special tool is available to release the
fuel line connectors, but provided care is
taken, the connectors can be released using
a pair of long-nosed pliers, or a similar tool, to
depress flie ratalning tangs. Suitably plug the
disconnected fuel and vent hoses to prevent
entry of dust and dirt.
8 Place a suitable container under the tank,
then slacken the clip and disconnect the
fuel filler hose from the fuel tank. Collect the
escaping fuel in the container.
9 Support the weight of ihe fuel tank on a jack
with interposed block of wood.
10 Undo the four bolts and remove the two
securing straps from the fuel tank.
11 Taking care not to damage the charcoal
canister, slowly lower the tank and move it
forwards. When sufficient clearance exists,
disconnect the charcoal canister vent hose
quick-release fitting.
12 Continue to lower the tank until it can be
removed frcim under the vehicle.
13 If necessary, remove the fuel lines and
hoses, heat shield and wiring from the tank
for transfer to the new tank. If a new tank Is
being fitted. It Is recommended that the filter
Is renewed at the same time.
14 If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may cleaned out with two or three rinses of
clean fuel. Remove the fuel gauge sender
unit and fuel supply pump as described In
8.7 Throttle housing retaining bolts
(arrowed) - 1 . 8 litre engines
16 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
a) When lifting the tank back into potion,
take care to ensure that none of the hoses
become trapped between the tank and
vehicle body. Refit the retaining straps
and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.
b) Ensure ail pipes and hoses are conectly
routed and all hoses unions are securely
joined.
c) On completion, refill the tank with a small
amount of fuel, and check for signs of
leakage prior to taking the vehicle out on
the road.
9
Throttle housing -
^
remove and refitting
^
Removai
1.8 litre engines
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Where fitted, remove the plastic cover over
the top ofthe engine.
3 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Release the clip and disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the camshaft
cover. Detach the intake duct fnam the airflow
meter and throttle housing, and remove the
duct from fhe engine.
4 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
throttle housing (see illustration).
9.12 Disconnect the wiring connector
(arrowed) from the throttle housing 2.2 mro engines
5 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the crankcase ventilation hose and the fuel
evaporation hose fnarn the throttle housing.
6 Clamp the two coolant hoses to minimise
coolant loss, then release the retaining clips
and disconnect the two coolant hoses from
the rear of the throttle housing.
7 Undo the four botts and lift the throttle
housing oft the inlet manifold (see illustration).
Recover the gasket.
8 It is not possible to obtain the thnattle valve
control motor or throttle valve position sensor
separately, so if either is faulty, the complete
throttle body must be renewed.
2.2 litre engines
9 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
10 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
tbe engine.
11 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Detach the intake duct from the
airflow meter and throttle body/housing, and
remove the duct frcmi the engine.
12 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
throttle housing (see illustration).
13 Undo the four bolts and lift the throttle
housing off the inlet manifold (see illustration).
Recover the gasket
14 it is not possible to obtain the throttle
valve control motor or throttle valve position
sensor separately so if either is faulty, the
complete throttle body must t>e renewed.
ReritUng
15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
thoroughly clean the mating faces and use a
new gasket. Tighten the botts progressively
and securely. On 1.8 litre engines, top-up the
coolant level as described in V/eekiy checks.
10 Fuel i n j e c t i o n s y s t e m s general information
The engine management (fuel injection/
ignition) systems incorporate a closed-loop
catalytic converter, an evaporative e
control system and an exhaust
9.13 Undo the four botts (arrowed) and lift
the throtae housing off the infet manifold 2.2 Ittre engines
recirculation system. All the systems operate
in a similar manner and comply with the latest
emission control standards. The fuel (njection
side of the systems operate as follows; refer
to Chapter 58 for information on the Ignition
system.
On 1.8 litre engines, the fuel supply pump,
immersed in the fuel tank, pumps fuel 1mm the
fuel tank to the fuel rail, via a filter mounted
underneath the rear of the vehicle. Fuel
supoiy pressure is controlled by the pressure
regulator located in the fuel tank.
On 2.2 litre engines, the fuel supply pump,
immersed in the fuel tank, pumps fuel from
the fuel tank to the high-pressure fuel pump,
via a filter mounted underneath the rear of
the vehicle. The high-pressure fuel pump is
mounted on the left-hand end of the cylinder
head and is driven directly by the inlet
camshaft. The high-pressure pump supplies
fuel at a variable pressure of between 40 and
110 bar to the fuel rail. The fuel pressure at
the fuel rail is contralled by means of a fuel
pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator.
The electrical conlhDl system consists of the
ECU, along with the following sensors.
a) Throttle potentiometer Ontegral with the
throttle housing) - informs the ECU of the
throttle position, and confirms the ^gnals
received from the accelerator pedal
position SI
•)) Accelei^tf
informs me ECU c
position, and the rate of throttle opening/
clo^ng.
c) Coolant temperature sensor-infonvs tiie
ECU of engine temperature.
d) Airflow meter - informs the ECU of the
load on the engine (expressed in terms
of ttie mass of air pas^ng from the air
(leaner to the throttle housing).
e) Manifold absolute pressure sensor (2.2
litre engines) - Infonns the ECU of the
engine load by monitoring the pressure In
the inlet manifold
f) Oxygen sensors (two)-inform the ECU ol
the oxygen content of the exhaust gases
(explained in greater detail in Part C of
this Chapter).
g) Cranltshalt sensor-informs tiTC ECU of
engine speed and crankstiaft position.
h) Camshaft sensor (two sensors on 1.8 litre
Z18XER engines) - inform the ECU of
speed and position of the camshaft(s).
1) Knock sensor-informs the ECU when
pre-lgnition ('pinking') is occurring,
j) ABS control unit - informs me ECU of
the vehicle speed, tiased on wfieel speed
sensor signals (explained in greater detail
in Chapter 9).
All the above information is analysed
by the ECU and, based on this, the ECU
determines the appropriate ignition and
fuelling requirements for the engine. The ECU
oontnals the fuel injector by varying its pulse
width - the length of time the injector is held
open - to provide a richer or weaker mixture,
as appropriate. The mixture is constantly
varied by the ECU, to provide the best setting
for cranking, starting (with either a hot or
cold engine), warm-up, idle, cruising, and
acceleration.
Idle speed and throttle position is controlled
by the throttle valve control motor, which is an
integral part of the throttle housing. The motor
is controlled by the ECU, in conjunction with
signals received from the accelerator pedal
position sensor
The systems incorporate a variable tract
inlet manifold to help increase tongue output
at low engine speeds. Each inlet manifold tract
is fitted with a valve. The valve is controlled
by the ECU via a solenoid valve and vacuum
diaphragm unit.
At low engine speeds (below approximately
3600 rpm) the valves remain closed. The air
entering the engine is then forced to take the
long inlet path through the manifold which
leads to an increase in the engine torque
output.
At higher engine speeds, the ECU switches
the solenoid valve which then allows vacuum
to act on the diaphragm unit. The diaphragm
unit is linked to the valve assemblies and
opens up each of the four valves allowing
the air passing through the manifold to take
the shorter inlet path which is more suited to
higher engine speeds.
The ECU also controls the exhaust and
evaporative emission control systems, which
are described in detail in Pari G of this
Chapter.
If certain sensors fail, and send abnormal
signals to the ECU, ihe ECU has a back-up
pnagramme. In this event, the abnormal signals
are ignored, and a pre-programmed value ¡S
substituted for the sensor signal, allowing the
engine to continue running, albeit at reduced
efficiency. If the ECU enters Its back-up mode,
a warning light on the instrument panel will
illuminate, and a fault code will be storod in
fhe ECU memory. This fault code can be read
using suitable specialist test equipment
11 Fuel injection system
components -
I
1 If a fault appears in the «igine management
system, first ensure that all the system wiring
connectors are securely connected and free
of corrosion. Ensure that the fault is not due
to poor maintenance; ie, check that the air
cleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped,
the cylinder compression pressures are
correct and that the engine breather hoses
are clear and undamaged, referring to Chapters 1A, 2Aand 2Bfor further information.
2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause of
the problem, the vehicle should be taken to
a suitably-equipped Vauxhall/Opel dealer or
engine management diagnostic specialist
for testing, A diagnostic socket is located
in the centre console, beneath the ashtray
11.2 The diagnostic socket is located
beneath the ashtray insert
Insert, to which a fault code reader or other
suitable test equipment can be connected
(see IJIustration). By using the code reader
or test equipment, the engine management
ECU can be intemagated, and any stored fault
codes can be retrieved. Live data can also
be c^tured from the various system sensors
and actuators, indicating their operating
parameters. This will allow the fault to be
quickly and simply traced, alleviating the need
to test all the system components Individually,
which is a time-consuming operation that
cames a risk of damaging the ECU,
12 Simtec 71.5 injection
system components rBmoval and refitting
• • -
^
^
Fuel rail and
injectors
Nate: Refer to ihe precauiKins^
in Section 1
betore proceeding. The se^s at both ends of the
fuel injectors must be renewed on reñtting.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
3 Dépressurise the fuel system as descritied
in Section 5,
4 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Release the clip and disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the camshaft
cover Detach the intake duct from the airflow
meter and throttle housing, and remove the
duct from the engine.
5 Fimily apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 From under the rear of the engine,
disconnect the wiring connectors for the
oxygen sensor and oil pressure switch.
Release the wiring hamess from Its clips,
7 From under the front of the engine
disconnect the wiring connectors at the oil
level sensor and crankshaft sensor. Release
the wiring harness from its clips,
8 W/orking from above, disconnect the
camshaft sensor wiring connector, then undo
the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the
12.31 U n d o t h e t w o
and
remove tbe camshaft sensor from the
cylinder head
9 Release the clip and disconnect the
remaining crankcase ventilatkin hose from ttie
camshaft cover
10 Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the following components, labelling each
connector to avoid confusion when refitting:
a) Fuel injectors.
b) Air conditioning compressor.
c) Coolant temperature sensor
d) Air conditioning pressure switch.
e) Throttie hou^ng.
fj Fuel injection ECU.
gj Knock sensor.
h) EGR vaive.
ij Ignition module.
j) Oxygen sensor.
k) Wiring harness block connector.
11 Detach the knock sensor wiring harness
plug bracket and the earth lead.
12 Release the wiring harness cable-ties
and unscrew the bolt securing the plastic
wiling tnaugh to ihe engine lifting eye. Lift up
the disconnected harness and place it to one
Side.
13 Disconnect the fuel feed hose
quick-release connector at the fuel rail. Be
prepared for some loss of fuel. A Vauxhail/
Opel special tool is available to release the
connector, but provided care is taken. It can
be released using a pair of long-nosed pliers,
or a similar tool, to depress the retaining tangs.
Suitably cover or plug the open unions, to
prevent dirt Ingress and further fuel spillage.
14 Unscrew the two mounting bohs, th«i lift
the fuel rail, complete with the injectors, off of
the inlet manifold.
15 To remove an injector from the fuel rail,
prise out the metal securing clip using a
screwdriver or a pair of pliers, and pull the
injector from the fuel rail. Remove and discard
i injector sealing rings; new ones must be
fitted on refitting.
16 Overhaul of the fuel injectors is not
possible, as no spares are available. If faulty,
an injector must be renewed.
17 Commence refitting by fitting new O-ring
seals to tjoth ends of the fuel injectors. Coat
the seals with a thin layer of petroleum Jelly
before fitting.
18 Refitting is a reversal of remove, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) When refitting the injectors to the fuel rail,
note that the groove In the metal securing
clip must engage witii the lug on the
injector body.
b) Mate sure that fhe quick-release
connector audibly engages on the fuel
rail.
c) Ensure that all wiring connectors are
securely reconnected, and that the
wiring is secured in tiie relevant clips and
brackets.
Coolant temperature
Airflow
meter
20 Slacken the retaining clip securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and disconnect
the duct.
21 Disconnect the airflow meter wii-ing
connector.
22 Slacken the retaining clip and remove the
airflow meter from the air cleaner housing lid.
23 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the arrow on the airflow meter
points towand the throttle body/housing when
fitted.
Crankshaft
sensor
24 The crankshaft sensor is mounted on the
front of the cylinder block below the oil filter
25 Firmly apply the tiandbraka, then jack up
the front ofthe car and support it securely on
axle stands (see JacA/ng and vehicle support).
26 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unscrew the retaining bolt and remove the
sensor from the front of fhe cylinder block.
Discand fhe sealing ring, a new one should be
used on refitting.
27 Refitting is the reveree of removal using
a new sealing ring and tightening the sensor
bo]t to the specified torque.
Camshaft
12 35 Undo the retainmg bolt and release
uiB Miock sensor from the cylinder block
sensor
sensor
28 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
29 Undo the three retaining screws, then
unclip the timing belt upper cover from the
rear cover and remove it from the engine
compartment.
30 Unscrew the nut from the fuel line bracket,
then unscrew the stud bolt. Disconnect the
camshaft sensor wiring connector, then unclip
the wiring harness.
31 Undo the two retaining bolts andremovethe
sensor from the cylinder head (see Hustration}.
32 Refltting is the reverse of removal,
tightening the sensor retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
Knock sensor
33 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
34 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and
remove the inlet manifold support bracket.
35 Undo the retaining bolt securing fhe knock
sensor to the cylinder block and release the
sensor from its location (see illustration).
36 Trace the wiring back to the knock sensor
wiring connector. Disconnect the connector,
release the wiring harness and remove the
37 On refitting, ensure the mating surfaces
are clean and dry then lit the sensor and
tighten Its retaining bolt to the specified
torque. Ensure the wiring is correctly routed
and securely reconnected.
Electronic
control unit (ECU)
Note: If a new ECU is to be fitted, this work
must bl
s it I
to program the new ECU after installation. This
work requires the use of dedicated Vauxhail/
Opel diagnostic equipment or a compatible
38 Remove the plastic cover over tiie top of
the engine.
39 Lift up the locking bars and disconnect
the two ECU wiring connectors.
40 Disconnect the knock sensor wiring
connector.
41 Undo the retaining bolt and detach tho
eartti lead from tiie ECU.
42 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the ECU from the engine.
43 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Oxygen sensors
44 Refer to Chapter 4C for removal and
refitting details.
13 Simtec 75.1 injection
system components remova! and refitting
Airflow
^
!S
^
meter
1 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
airflow meter ai the right-hand rear corner ot
the engine compartment.
2 Slacken the retaining clamps and remove
Ihe airflow meter from the air intake ducts.
3 Refitting is a reversal of r ^ o v a l , but ensure
lhat the arrow on the airflow meter body points
toward the throttle housing viihen fitted.
Fuel rail and
iniectors
Note: Refer to (he f)rec3uOons ^ven in Section 1
before proceeding. The seals at both ends of the
ftj©/ injectors must be renewed on refitting4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
5 Dépressurise the fuel system as descnbed
in Section 5.
6 Remove the air cleaner assembly and intake
duct as described in Section 2.
7 Unclip the wiring harness trough from the
rear of the camshaft cover (see illustration).
8 Pull out the retaining wire clip and disconnect the breather hose from the camshaft
cover (see illustration).
9 Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the following components, labelling each
connector tc avoid confusion when refitting:
a) Engine management ECU.
b) Evaporative emission control system
purge valve.
c) Throttle housing.
d) Inlet camshaft WT oil control valve.
e) Fuel Injectors.
10 Unclip the wiring harness fram the support
brackets and move the harness to one side.
11 Disconnect the fuel feed hose quickrelease connector at the fuel rail (see
illustration). Be prepared for some loss of
fuel, A Vauxhall/Opel special tool is available
to release the connector, but provided care
is taken, it can be released using a pair of
long-nosed pliers, or a similar tool, to depress
the retaining tangs. Clamp or plug the open
end of the hose, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fuel spillage.
12 Unscrew the two mounting bolts, then lift
the fuel rail complete with the injectors oft of
the inlet manifold.
13 To remove an injector from the fuel rail,
prise out the metal securing clip using a
screwdriver or a pair of pliers, and pull the
Injector from the fuel rail. Remove and discard
the injector sealing rings; new ones must be
fitted on retitting.
14 Overhaul of the fuel injectors is not
possible, as no spares are available. If faulty,
an injector must be renewed.
15 Commerce refitting by fitting new O-ring
seals to both ends of the fuel injectors. Coat
the seals with a thin layer ot petroleum jelly
before fitting,
16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) When refitting the injectors to Ihe fuel rail,
note that the groove in the metal securing
clip must engage with Ihe lug on the
injector body.
b) Mate sore that the quick-release
connector audibly engages on the fuel
rail.
c) Ensure that all wiring connectors are
securely reconnected, and that the
wiring is secured in the relevant clips and
brackets.
Crankshaft position
sensor
Note: A new O-ring seal must tie used on
17 The crankshaft sensor is located at the
rear left-hand end ot the cylinder block, below
the starter motor,
18 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
19 Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter 5A.
20 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector,
then undo the retaining bolt and withdraw the
sensor trom the cylinder block.
21 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the mating surfaces of the sensor
and baseplate are clean and tit a new O-ring
seal to the sensor before refitting. Tighten the
bolt to the specified torque.
Camshaft
sensor
22 Two sensors are fitted, one for each
camshaft. Both sensors are located at the lefthand end of the cylinder head.
23 Disconnect the wiring connector from
the relevant sensor (see illustration). If
removing the exhaust camshaft sensor, unclip
the oxygen sensor wiring harness from the
support bracket.
24 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
sensor Irom the cylinder head.
25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tightening
the sensor retaining bolt to the specified
torque.
13.8 Pull out the retaining wire clip and
disconnect ttie breather hose from the
camshaft cover
Knock sensor
27 The knock sensor is located on the rear of
the cylinder block, just above the starter motor,
28 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
29 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring
connector, then unclip the connector from the
support bracket.
30 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and
remove the inlet manifold support bracket.
31 Disconnect the knock sensor wiring
connector, then unscrew the retaining bolt and
remove the sensor from the cylinder block.
32 Clean the contact surfaces ot Ihe sensor
and block. Also clean the threads ot the
sensor mounting bolt.
33 Locate the sensor on the block and insert
the mounting bolt. Tighten the bolt to the
specitied tongue. Note that the torque setting
is critical for trie sensor to function correctly.
34 Refit the inlet manifold support bracket
and oxygen sensor wiring connector, then
lower the vehicle to the ground.
Electronic
control unit (ECU)
26 Refer to Chapter 3 tor removal and refitting
details.
Note; If a new ECU is to be fitted, this work
must be entnjsted to a Vauxhall/Opel d
suitably-equipped specialist as
to program the new ECU after installation. This
work requires the use of dedicated Vauxhall/
Opel diagnostic equipment or a compatible
alternative.
35 The ECU is located on the left-hand side
of the inlet manifold.
13.11 Disconnect the fuel feed hose
quick-release connector (arrowed) at the
fuel rail
13.23 Disconnect the wiring connector
(an-owed) from the camshaft sensor
(exhaust sensor shown)
Coolant temperature
sensor
38 Undo the retaining bolt and detach the
earth lead fmm the ECU.
39 Undo the four retaining boits and remove
the ECU from the engine.
40 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Oxygen
sensors
41 Refer to Chapter 4C for removal and
refitting details.
13.37 Lift up the ioclting bars and
disconnect the two ECU wiring connectors
36 Disconnect ttie battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter^.
37 Lift up the locidng bars and disconnect tlie
two ECU wiring connectors (see illustration).
14 S l m t e c B I . I i n j e c t i o n
s ^ t e m components removal and refitting
Fuel
rail
and
^
^
injectors
Note 1: Numenyus special tools are required
to remove and refit ttie injectors and fuel
rail. Read througli ttie entire procedure to
familiarise yourself with the worii involved.
14.5a Release the clips (arrowed) securing
the crankcase ventilation valve hoses to
the camshaft
14.5b . . . and cj^inder head
14.8 Disconnect the fuel feed hose
quick-release connector at the fuel
pressure regulator (arrovred)
14.9a Disconnect the fuel retum hose
quick-release connectors at the fuel
pressure regulator (arrowed)...
and ensure the special toois (or suitable
alternatives} are available before proceeding.
Note 2: New sealing rings and retaining clifis
wili be required far each Injector for refitting.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer fo Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the OTgine.
3 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in Section 5.
4 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intai^e duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Detach the Intake duct from the
airflow meter and throttle housing, and remove
the duct frcim tiie engine.
5 Release the clips securing the crankcase
ventilation valve hoses to the camshaft cover
and cylinder head (see illustrations) Unclip
the ventilation valve and remove it from the
engine.
6 Remove the engine management electronic
control untt as described later in this Section.
7 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the fuel
pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator
(see illustrations).
8 Disconnect the fuel feed hose quick-release
connector at the fuel pressure regulator (see
illustration). Be prepared for some loss of
fuel. A Vauxhall/Opel special tool Is available
to release the connector, but provided care
is taken, it can be released using a pair of
long-nosed pliers, or a similar tool, to depress
the retaining tangs. Suttably cover or plug
the open unions, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fuel spillage. Release the disconnected
hose from its retaining clips and move it to
one side.
9 Disconnect the fuel return hose
quick-release connectors at the fuel pressure
regulator and high-pressure fuel oump (see
illustrations). Be prepared for some loss of
fuel. Suitably cover or plug the open unions,
to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.
Release the retaining clips and remove the
hose from tiie engine.
10 Thoroughly clean the fuel pipe unions
on the high-pressure fuel pump and fuel
rail. Using an open-ended spanner, unscrew
the union nuts securing the fuel pipe to the
fuel pump and fuel rail (see Illustration). Be
prepare
he
high-pressure fuel pipe and plug or cover the
open unions to prevent dirt entry,
11 Disconnect the wiring harness connectors
at the evaporative emission control purge
valve, manifold absolute pressure sensor and
the inlet manifold sv^-itchover solenoid valve.
Undo the two nuts and detach the wiring
harness bracket. Unclip the wiring harness
a n d n •e it to 01
12 Unscrew the two stud bolts and the four
mounting bolts securing the fuel rail and
injectors to the cylinder head.
13 Screw the Vauxhall/Opel special tool
KM-6359 into the stud bolt holes at each end
of the fuel rail. Tighten both tools to draw the
fuel rail and injectors out from the cylinder
head. Take care not to tilt the fuel rail as it is
being removed.
14 Detach the injector wiring harness, then
remove the spring clip and plastic clip and
withdraw each injector from the fuel rail. Note
that new clips and new injector seals will be
required for each injector for refitting.
15 If the Injectors remained in place in the
cylinder head when the fud rail was removed, it
will be necessary to use Vauxhall/Opel special
tools KM-6360 and Kfvl-328-B to remove
them. Detach the sealing ring and support ring
from the top of each injector Attach KM-6360
to the injector and turn the tool back and forth
to release the injector from its seat. Once the
injector is free, use tool KM-3a8-B to pull the
injector from the cylinder head. Remove the
remaining injectors in the same way
16 Clean the body of each injector with a soft
brass brush taking great care not to touch the
injector nozzle.
17 Remove the combustion chamber sealing
ring on each injector then fit a new sealing ring
using the various components of Vauxhail/
Opel special tool KM-6364. Place the new
sealing ring on the fitting sleeve, then locate
the fitting sleeve on the injector. Push the
sealing ring into position on the injector using
the cylindrical side of the fitting tool, until
the seal reaches the groove in the injector
Smooth the sealing ring by turning it slightly
with the conical side of the fitting tool, then
leave the tool in position until the injectors are
ready for refitting. Repeat this procedure for
the remaining injectors,
18 Remove the old sealing ring and support
ring from the top of each injector and clean
the ring locations. Using the fitting sleeve of
tool KM-6364, fit a new support ring, then fit
a new sealing ring. Repeat this procedure for
the remaining injectors.
19 Using a circular movement, fit the four
injectors into the fuel rail and secure each one
with a new spring clip and plastic clip,
20 Refit the Injector wiring harness and
reconnect the injectore, fljel pressure regulator
and fuel pressure sensor,
21 Clean the injector locations in the cylinder
head and remove the fitting toois from the
iniectors. Refit the injector and fuel rail
assembly to the cylinder head.
22 Insert the four retaining bolts and tighten
them in a spiral
ntwo St
is to the
23 Refit the two stud bolts to the fuel rail and
tighten to the specified toreiue.
24 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
removal, Ijearing in mind the following points:
a) Ensure that all wiring connectors are
securely reconnected, and that the
wiring is secured in the relevant clips and
brackets.
b^ Tighten the high-pressure fuel pipe unions
to the specified torque.
c) On completion, reconnect the tiattery,
start the engine and check for fuel leaks. If
satisfactory, refit the engine cover
High-pressure
fuel pump
25 Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
26 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
27 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in Section 5,
28 Disconnect the fuel return hose
quick-release connector at the high-pressure
fuel pump (see Illustration 14.9b). Be
prepared for some loss of fuel. A Vauxhail/
Opel special tool is available to release the
connector, but provided care is taken, it can
be released using a pair ot long-nosed pliers,
or a similar tool, to depress the retaining fangs.
Suitably cover or plug fhe open unions, to
prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.
29 Thoroughly clean the fuel pipe unions
on the high-pressure fuel pump and fuel rail.
Using an open-ended spanner, unscrew the
union nuts securing the fuel pipe to the fuel
pump and fuel rail (see Illustration 14.10). Be
prepared for some loss of fuel. Withdraw the
high-pressure fuel pipe and plug or cover the
open unions to prevent dirt entry,
30 Undo the three retaining tx)lts and remove
the high-pressure pump from the cylinder
head. Collect the gasket,
31 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder head and fuel pump and locate a new
gasket on the pump,
32 Place the pump In position on the oyiinder
head and refit the three retaining bolts. Tighten
the bolts to the specitied torque.
33 Reconnect the fuel pipe to the pump
and fuel rail and tighten the union nuts to the
specified tomue,
34 Reconnect the fuel return hose to the
pump.
35 Reconnect the battery, then start the
engine and check for fuel leaks.
36 Refit the engine cover on completion.
Fuel pressure
14.10 Unscrew the union nuts securing
the fuel pipe to the fuel pump (A) and fuel
rail (B)
40 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
housing. Detach the intake duct from the
airflow meter and throttle housing, and remove
the duct trom the engine.
41 Disconnect the wiring connector at the
fuel pressure regulator, then undo the two
retaining bolts and remove the regulator fmm
the fuel rail (see illustration). Be prepared for
some loss of fuel. Remove the two sealing
rings from the regulator.
42 Fit two new sealing rings to the regulator,
then place the unit in position on the fuel rail.
Refit and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque and reconnect the wiring
43 Refit Ihe air intake duct and securely
tighten its retaining clips.
44 Refit the engine cover and reconnect the
battery.
Fuel pressure
sensor
45 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
46 Remove the plastk; cover over the top of
the engine.
47 Depressurisethefuelsystemasdescril>ed
in Section 5.
48 Remove the cable-tie, then disconnect the
wiring connector at the fuel pressure sensor
(see Illustration 14.7a). Unscrew the sensor
and remove it from the fuel rail. Collect the
regulator
37 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery In the
Reference Chapter).
38 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
39 Dépressurise the hjel system as described
in Section 5,
14.41 Undo the two retaining bolts
(arrowed) and remove the fuel pressure
regulator from the fuel rail
61 Refit the sensor to the manifold, refit the
retaining bolt and tighten to the specified
torque.
62 Reconnect the sensor wiring connector,
secure the wiring harness connector, and refit
the engine cover
14.60 Disconnect the manifold absolute
pressure sensor wiring connector
(arrowed)
new sealing ring, and tigliten the sensor to the
specified torque.
50 Reconnect the wiring connector and
secure with a new cable-tie,
51 Reconnect the battery, then start the
engine and check for fuel leaks.
62 Refit the engine cover on completion.
C o o / a n t temperature
sensor
53 Refer to Chapter 3 for removal and refitting
details.
Airflow
meter
54 Slacken the retaining clip securing the air
Intake duct to the airflow meter and disconnect
the duct.
65 Disconnect the airflow meter wiring
connector.
66 Slacken the retaining clip and remove the
airflow meter from the air cleaner housing lid,
57 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the an-ow on the airflow meter
points toward the thnattle body/housing when
fitted.
Manifold
absolute
58 Remove fhe plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
59 Unclip the wiring harness connector
located above the manifold absolute pressure
sensor.
60 Disconnect the pressure sensor wiring
connector, undo the retaining bolt and remove
the sensor from the inlet manifold (see
illustration).
Crankshaft
sensor
63 Remove the starter motor as described tn
Chapter 5A.
64 Trace the wiring back from the sensor,
releasing it from ail the relevant clips and ties
whilst noting its correct routing. Disconnect
the wiring connector from the sensor
65 Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove
the sensor from the cylinder block (see
illustration).
66 Refitting is the reverse of removal, tightening
the retaining bolt to Ihe specified tonque. Ensure
the wiring is correctly routed and retained by all
the necessary clips and ties.
Camshaft
sensor
67 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
68 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Section 2.
69 Disconnect the wiring connector, undo the
retaining bolt and remove the sensor from the
cylinder head.
70 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Knock
sensor
71 Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter 5A.
72 Disconnect the wiring block connector,
so the wiring is free to be removed with the
73 Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove
the sensor from the cylinder block (see
Illustration).
74 On refitting ensure the mating surfaces are
clean and dry then fit the sensor and tighten Its
retaining bolt to the specified torque. Ensure
the wiring is correctly routed and retained by
all the necessary clips and ties.
Electronic
control
unit
(ECU)
Note: If a new ECU is to be fitted, this work
must be entrusted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer or
suitably-equipped specialist as it is necessary
to program tlie new ECU after installation. This
work requires ttie use of dedicated Vauxtial!/
Opel diagnostic equipment or a compatible
75 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
76 Remove the plastic cover over the top ot
the engine.
77 Lift up the locking bars and disconnect the
two ECU wiring connectors (see illustration).
78 Undo the retaining bolt and disconnect
the earth lead trom the centre ot the ECU.
79 Disconnect the wiring connector at the
throttle body/housing and move the wiring
harness clear ot the ECU,
80 Undo the three retaining bolts and remove
the ECU from the Inlet manifold.
81 Refitting is a reversal ot removal.
Oxygen
sensors
82 Refer to Chapter 4C for removal and
refitting details,
15 Inlet manifold •removal and refitting
1.8 litre
Z18XE
3fc
engines
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery In the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
3 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A,
4 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Section 2.
5 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
In Section 5.
6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A.
7 Remove the alternator as described In
Chapter 5A.
8 Remove the fuel rail and injectors as
described in Section 12.
9 Undo the two boits and remove the inlet
manifold support bracket.
10 Disconnect the remaining vacuum hoses,
wiring connectors and auxiliary fittings to
enable removal of the inlet manifold.
14.77 Ltft up the locking bars and
disconnect the two ECU wiring connectors
11 Slacken and remove the retaining nuts
and manoeuvre the manifold assembly awav
from the engine. Remove the gasket and
discard it. Note: The manitalú assemblv must
be treated as a sealed unit: do not atterr.p:
to dismantle it as no components, other ¡fia"
the switchover diaphragm and solenoid, a-s
available separately.
Refitting
12 Refitting is the reverse of removal noting
the following.
a) Prior to refitting, ctieck tfie manifold studs
and renew any that are worn or damaged.
b) Ensure the manifold and cylinder mating
surfaces are clean and dry and fit the new
gasket. Refit the manifold and tighten the
retaining nuts evenly and progressively to
the specified torque.
c) Ensure that all relevant hoses are
reconnected to their original positions,
and are securely held (where necessary)
by their retaining clips.
d) On completion, refill the cooling system
as described in Chapter 1A.
1.8 litre Z18XER engines
Removal
www
*
.
15.22 Disconnect the wiring connector
(arrowed) from the evaporative emission
control system purge valve
28 Disconnect the wiring harness block
connector on the left-hand side of the inlet
manifold (see illustration).
29 Release the throttle housing coolant
hoses trom their clips and supports on the
inlet manifold and disconnect the hoses from
the coolant expansion tank and thermostat
housing. Move the hoses to one side,
30 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
manifold switchover valve diaphragm and
solenoid,
31 Undo the retaining bolt and detach the
wiring harness support bracket trom the
engine lifting bracket.
32 Disconnect the quick-release fitting and
detach the brake sen/o vacuum hose from the
inlet manifold.
33 Slacken and remove the seven retaining
bolts and manoeuvre the manifold assembly
away from the cylinder head. Remove the
gasket and discard it. Note: Tfie manifold
assembly must be treated as a sealed unit: do
not attempt to dismantle it as no components,
other than the switchover diaphragm and
solenoid, are available separately
Refitting
13 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
14 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
IB Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A.
16 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
Intake duct as described in Section 2.
17 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
in Section 5,
18 Remove the throttle housing as described
in Section 9.
19 From under the car, disconnect fhe
34 Refitting is the reverse of removal noting
oxygen sensor wiring connector, then unclip
the foliov/ing.
the connector from the support bracket,
a) Ensure the manifold and cylinder head
20 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and
mating surtaces are clean and dry and fit
remove the inlet manifold support bracket,
the new gasket Refit the manifold and
21 Unclip the wiring harness from the base of
tighten the retaining bolts evenly and
the inlet manifold,
progressiveiy to the specified torque,
22 Disconnect the wiring connector trom the
bj Ensure t/iaf all relevant hoses are
evaporative emission control system purge
reconnected to their original positions,
valve (see illustration),
and are securely held (where necessary)
23 Slide the purge valve mbber mounting off
by their retaining clips.
the mounting bracket, then disconnect the
c)
On completion, refill the cooling system
vapour hose from the inlet manifold. Place the
as described In Chapter 1A.
valve to one side.
24 Unclip the wiring hamess trough trom the rear 2.2 litre engines
of the camshaft cover (see Ulustratlon 13.7),
25 Pull out the retaining wire clip and dis- Removal
connect the breather hose from the camshaft 35 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
cover (see Illustration 13.8),
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
26 Remove the engine management ECU as Reference Chaptei^.
described in Section 15.
36 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
27 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the the engine.
inlet camshaft W T oil control valve and the 37 Dépressurise the fuel system as described
four fuel injectors. Release the winng harness in Section 5.
from the support brackets and place it to one 38 Slacken the retaining clips securing the air
side.
intake duct to the airflow meter and throttle
15.28 Disconnect the wiring harness block
connector on the left-hand side of the inlet
manifold
housing. Detach the intake duct from the
airflow meter and throttle housing, and remove
the duct fram the engine.
39 Remove the throttle housing as described
in Section 9.
;edures contained in
Chapter 40 and transfer the oxygen sensor to
the new pipe.
Catalytic converter
removal
15 The catalytic converter
part of the exhaust manifold
separated. Refer to Section
manifold removal and refitting
Heat shield(s)
is an integral
and cannot be
16 for exhaust
procedures.
removai
16 The heat shields are secured to the
underside of the body by various nuts and
threaded caps. Each shield can be removed
once the relevant exhaust section has been
removed. If a shield is being removed to gain
access to a component located behind tt, it
may prove sufficient in some cases to remove
the retaining nuts/caps, and simply lower the
shield, without disturbing the exhaust system.
If any of the threaded caps are damaged
during removal, a suitable nut and washer can
be used when refitting.
Refitting
17 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
sequence, noting tiie following points:
a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion tiave
been removed from the system joints and
renew all distuibed clamps.
b) Inspect the rubber mountings for signs
of damage or deteriomtion, and renew as
necessary.
c) When remting the front pipe to the
manifold (catalytic converter), use a
new gasket and new retaining nuts, and
tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
d) Prior to tightening the exhaust
system clamps, ensure that ail rubber
mountings are correctly located,
and that there is adequate clearance
between the exhaust system and vehicle
underbody. Tighten the clamp bolt
retaining nuts securely.
Chapter 4 Part B:
Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel engines
Contents
Section number
Air cleaner assembly and intake ducts - removal and refltting
3
Accelerator pedal/position sensor - removal and refitting
4
Exhaust manifold and tuitiocharger - removal and refitting
18
Exhaust system-general information, removal and refitting
19
Fuel filter crash box - removal and refttting
9
Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting
6
Fuel Injectors - removal and refitting
13
Fuel rail - removal and refitting
12
Fuel supply pump - removal and refitting
7
Fuel system - priming and bleeding
5
Section numlier
Fuel tank - removal and refitting
General information and precautions
High pressure diesel injection system - special Infomiation
High-pressure fuel pump - removal and refitting
Injection system electrical components - removal and refitting
Inlet manifold - removal and
refitting
Inlet manifold changeover flap actuator drive (Z19DTH engines)removal and refitting
Intercooler-removal and refitting
Turbocharger-description and precautions
8
1
2
11
10
14
15
16
17
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
-3^
Fairiy easy, suitable |
for beginner with
^
some experience
a
FaHydfficutt,
^
suitable for competent
IDIY mechanic
«
^
Difficult, suitable
^
for experienced DIY S
mecfianic
*
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
D I Y or professional
Specifications
Fuel s y s t e m d a t a
System type
Firing onler.
Fuel system operating pressure
Idlespeed
Maximum speed
High-pressure fuel pump
Fuel supply pump:
Type
Delivery pressure
injectors
Bosch EDO 16C9 or EDC 16C39 hlgti-pressure direct injection
'common-rail' system, electronically-controlled
1-3-4-2 { N o i at timing belt end of engine)
1400 bar at 2200 rpm
Controlled by ECU
Controlled by ECU
Bosch CP1H
Elecbic, mounted In fuel tank
3.3 bar (maximum)
Bosch CRIP 2-MI
^
^
^
Torque wrench settings
Alternator and tiigti-pressure fuel pump bracket bolts Camshaft sensor retaining bolt(s)
Catalytic converter clamp bolt
Charge (boost) pressure sensor retaining bolts
Crankshaft sensor retaining bolt
ECU bracket lower mounting Ixilt:*
Stage 1
Fuel injector clamp bracket m
Fuel pressure sensor to fuel rail
Fuel rail retaining nuts/bolts
High-pressure fuel pipe unions:
IWI12 union nuts
M14 union nuts
High-pressure fuel pump mounting bolts
Inlet manifoici bolts
Temperature sensor to diesel particulate filter..
TTirottle housing bolts:
Z19DT engines
219DTH engines
Turtxjcharger oil return pipe bolts:
M6 bolts
MB bolts
TurlDocharger oil supply pipe banjo union bolt.,
' Use new fasteners
1
General i n f o r m a t i o n
and precautions
1 The engmes are equipped with a
high-pressure direct injection system which
Incorporates the very latest in diesel injection
technology. On this system, a high-pressure
fuel pump is used purely to provide the
pressure required for the injection system and
has no contrai over the injection timing (unlike
conventional diesel injection systems). The
injection timing is controlled by the electronic
control unit (ECU) via the electhcally-operated
injectors. The system operates as follows.
2 The fuel system consists of a fuel tank
(which is mounted under the rear of the car.
with an electric fuel supply pump Immersed
In It), a fuel filter with integral water separator,
a high-pressure fuel pump, injectors and
associated components.
3 Fuel is supplied to the fuel filter housing
which is located in the engine compartment.
The fuel filter removes all foreign matter and
water and ensures that the fuel supplied to llie
pump is clean. Excess fuel is returned from
the outlet on the fiiter housing lid to the tank
via the fuel cooler. The fuel cooler is fitted to
the underside of the vehicle and is cooled by
Angle-tighten a further 120°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
25
25
20
20
45
18
18
15
15
33
32
25
60
70
25
24
18
44
52
ie
22
30
25
25
45
16
22
IB
18
33
25
9
18
7
9
25
15
7
18
11
the passing airflow to ensure the fuel is cool
before it enters the fuel tank.
4 The fuel Is heated to ensure no problems
occur when Ihe ambient temperature is
very low. This is achieved by an electricallyoperated fuel heater incorporated In the filler
housing, the heater is contraiied by the ECU.
5 The high-prassure fuel pump is driven at
half-crankshaft speed by the timing belt. Jtie
high pressure required in the system (up to
1350 bar) is pnaduced by the three pistons in
the pump. The high-pressure pump supplies
high pressure fuel to the fuel rail which acts
as a resen/oir tor the tour injectors. Since the
pump has no control over the injection timing,
there is no need to time the pump when
installing the timing belt,
6 The electrical control system consists of the
ECU. along with the following sensors:
a) Accelerator pedal position sensorinforms tfie ECU of tfie accelerator pedal
position, and the rate of throttle opening/
closing.
b) Coolant temperature sensor - informs the
ECU of engine temperature.
c) Airflow meter - informs the ECU of the
amount of air passing through the irrtalwed} and move the wiring trough and
harness to one side
12.20 Unscrew the union nuts securing the
high-pressure fuel ptpe to the fuel pump
and fuel rail
fuel pipe unions on the fuel rail, fuel pump
and injectore. Using two spanners, hold ttie
unions and unscrew the union nuts securing
the high-pressure fuel pipes to the fuel
injectors. Unscrew the union nuts securing
the high-pressure fuel pipes to the fuel rail,
vflthdraw the pipes and plug or cover the open
unions to prevent dirt entry (see illustration).
20 Using an open-ended spanner, unscrew
the union nuts securing the high-pressure
fuel pipe to the fuel pump and fuel rail (see
Illustration). Counterhold the unions on
the pump with a second spanner, while
unscrewing the union nuts. Withdraw the
high-pressure fuel pipe and plug or cover the
open unions to prevent dirt entry.
21 Disconnect the wiring connectors at
the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure
sensor, then release the clip and disconnect
ttie fuel return hose. Undo the two bolts and
remove ttie fuel rail (see illustratrans).
12.21b . . . then undo the two bolts
(anowed) and remove the fuel rail
Refitting
22 Refit tlie fuel rail and tighten the retaining
bolts to the specified torque. Reconnect the
fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure
sensor wiring connectors, and reconnect the
fuel return hose.
23 Working on one fuel injector at a time,
remove the blanking plugs from the fuel pipe
unions on the fuel rail and the relevant Injector.
Locate the new high-pressure fuel pipe over
the unions and screw on the union nuts finger
tight. Tighten the union nuts to the specified
torciue using a torque wrench and cn>w-foot
adaptor. Counterhold the union on the injector
with an open-ended spanner, while tightening
the union nui. Repeat this operation for the
remaining three injectors.
24 Similarly, fit the new high-pressure
fuel pipe to the fuel pump and fuel rail, and
tighten the union nuts to the specified tongue,
Counterhold the union on the pump with an
open-ended spanner, while tightening the
union nut.
25 Reconnect the battery negative temninal.
26 Observing the precautions listed in
Section 2, prime the fuel system as descritied
in Section 5, then start the engine and allow it
to idle. Check for leaks at the high-pressure
fuel pipe unions with the engine idling. If
satisfactory. Increase the engine speed to
4000 rpm and check again for leaks. If any
leaks are detected, obtain and fit a new
high-pressure fuel pipe.
27 Refit the engine cover on completion.
13 Fuel i n j e c t o r s r-
retnovai and refitting
^
^
A
Warning: Refer to tiie information
contained in Section 2 before
procwdlng.
Note 1: A new copper washer, retaining nut
and high-pressure fuel pipe wiil be required
for each removed injector when refitting.
Note 2: The injector is an extremely tight fit
in the cylinder head, and it is lilolts and tighten
securely.
24 Reconnect the wiring connectors to t f «
glow plugs.
25 Refit the throttle housing as described h
Section 10.
26 Refil the vacuum lines ronning over t t »
top of the camshaft cover and reconnect ttia
vacuum hoses.
27 Befit the high-pressure fuel pump as
described in Section 11.
28 Refit the exhaust gas recirculation (EGfl
vaive as described in Chapter 40,
29 Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
30 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
31 Observing the precautions listed In
Section 2, prime the fuel system as described
14.39 Unscrew the two nuts and free the
wiHng hamess and coolant pipes Irom the
starter mntor bracket
In Section 5, then start the engine and allow it
to idle. Check for leaks at the high-pressure
fuel pipe unions with the engine idling. If
satisfactory, increase the engine speed to
4000 rpm and check again for leaks. If any
leaks are detected, obtain and fit a new
high-pressure fuel pipe,
32 Refit the engine cover on completion.
Z19DTH
engines
Removal
33 Disconnect the battery negative temilnal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
34 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine,
35 Remove the fuel filter crash box as
described in Section 9.
36 Remove the high-pressure fuel pump as
described in Section 11.
37 Remove the exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR) valve as described in Chapter 4C.
38 Disconnect the four vacuum hoses then
undo the bolt(s) and remove the two vacuum
pipes over the top of the inlet manifold.
39 Unscrew the two nuts securing the wiring
harness and coolant pipes to the starter motor
bracket. Free the harness and pipes from the
bracket (see illustration).
40 Release the clips and disconnect ihe
crankcase breather hoses from the top and
bottom of the oil separator,
41 Remove the oil separator and vacuum
resen/oir mounting bracket by undoing the
two nuts above the vacuum reservoir, the bolt
at the base of the vacuum resen/oir, and the
bolt at the nght-hand side of the oil separator.
Remove the mounting bracket complete
with oil separator and vacuum reservoir (sea
illustrations).
42 Undo the three bolts, release the hose
clip, free the wiring harness and detach the
coolant pipe frcim the inlet manifold,
43 Screw two nuts onto the inner highpressure fuel pump mounting stud. Lock the
two nuts together and unscrew the stud from
the engine bracket (see illustration).
44 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
throttle housing and charge (boost) pressure
sensor.
45 Undo the nine retaining nuts and remove
14.41d . . . then remove the mounting
bracket complete with oil separator and
the inlet manifold from the cyiinder head studs
(see illushation). Recover the gasket.
46 With the manifold removed. If required,
remove the throttle housing with reference to
Section 10.
47 The changeover flap actuator drive can
be removed by disconnecting the drive motor
actuating rod ball socket, and undoing the two
stud bolts.
throttle body/housing and change (boost)
Refitting
48 if removed, refit the throttle housing
with reference to Section 10, then refit the
changeover flap actuator drive,
49 Thoroughly clean the inlet manifold and
cylinder head mating faces, then locate a new
gasket on the inlet manifold flange.
50 Locate the manifold in position and refit the
retaining nuts. Diagonally and progressively,
tighten the nuts to the specified tonque.
51 Reconnect the wiring connectore at the
52 Refit the high-pressure fuel pump
mounting stud, then remove the two nuts
used to remove/refit the stud.
53 Refit the coolant pipe to the manifold, and
secure witti the three bolts tightened securely,
Reconnect the coolant pipe and attach the
wiring harness.
54 Refit the oil separator and vacuum
reservoir mounting bracket. Refit and tighten
the two bolts and two nuts, then reconnect
the crankcase breather hoses.
55 Refit the coolant pipe and wiring hamess
to the starter motor bracket, then refit and
tighten the two nuts.
56 Refit the vacuum pipes over the manifold
and reconnect the four vacuum pipes.
57 Refit fhe exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)
valve as described in Chapter 4C.
14.43 Lock two nuts together and u
ttie luel pump stud from the engine bracket
14.46 Inlet manifold retaining nuts
(arrowed)
Ir o
Tighten all other retaining nuts and bolts
to the speciTied torque (where given).
d) Refit the exhaust system as described in
Section 19.
e) On completion refill the cooling system as
described in Chapter Wand, If necessary,
top-up the oil level as described in
•Weekly checks:
f) On starting the engine for the tirst time,
allow the engine to idle for a few minutes
before increasing the engine speed; this
will allow oil to be circulated around the
turbocharger tiearings.
19 Exhaust s y s t e m general information,
removal and refitting
General
^
^
^
information
M o d e l s w i t h o u t a particulate filter
1 Theexhaustsystem consists of four sections
comprising a primary catalytic converter, a
front pipe incorporating a secondary catalytic
converter, an intermediate pipe, and a tailpipe
and silencer.
2 The front pipe is attached to the primary
catalytic converter by a flange joint secured by
nuts. All other exhaust sections are joined by
overlap joints which are secured by clamps.
The system is suspended throughout its entire
length by rubber mountings.
M o d e l s w i t h a particulate filter
ling nuts
unit. The sections are then separated with the
system off the car,
6 The manufacturers specify that If any of the
exhaust sections are separated, the clamps
must be renewed. As the clamps are attached
tc the exhaust sections by means of a spot
weld at manufacture, it will be necessary
to use a suitable grinder to remove the spot
weld.
Complete system
removal
7 To remove the system, first jack up the front
and rear of the car and support it securely on
axle stands. Alternatively position the car over
an inspection pit or on car ramps. The help of
an assistant will be needed.
S Undo the retaining bolts and screws and
remove fhe engine undertray
9 On models equipped with a diesel
particulate filter, release the retaining clips and
disconnect the two differential pressure sensor
vacuum hoses from the two pipes adjacent to
the particulate filter. Unscrew the retaining nut
and remove the temperature sensor from the
diesel particulate filter
10 Spray some penetrating oil over the
exhaust rubber mounting blocks so that the
mounting blocks will slide easily on the exhaust
and undertMdy hangers (see illustration).
11 Undo the two bolts securing the front pipe
support bracket to the transmission bracket.
12 Undo the three retaining nuts and separate
the exhaust front pipe from the primary
catalytic converter, taking care to support the
flexible section. Note: Angular movement in
excess of 10" can cause permanent damage
to the flexible section. Recover the gasket
(see illustration). Note that new nuts will be
required for refitting,
13 On models equipped with a diesel
particulate filter, undo the two bolts securing
the particulate filter rear mounting bracket to
the underbody
14 Slide the front pipe rubber mounting
blocks as far forwand as possible. Move the
exhaust system to the rear and disengage the
tront pipe hangers trom the mounting blocks.
15 Move the exhaust system forward and
disengage the intermediate pipe and tailpipe
hangers from the rubber mounting blocks.
Lower the system to the ground and slide it
out from under the car.
Individual section
removal
16 Remove the complete system as
described previously.
17 If removing the front pipe on models
equipped with a diesel particulate filter, undo
the three nuts and separate ihe flange joint.
Recover the gasket.
18 To remove any other individual section,
slacken and remove the nut from the relevant
exhaust clamp retaining bolt. Apply liberal
amounts of penetrating oii to the joint and tap
around the joint and clamp with a hammer to
free it. Twist the pipe to be removed in both
directions while holding the adjacent pipe.
Once the joint is tree, pull the pipes apart,
19 Mark the position of the clamp on the pipe,
so the new clamp can be fitted in the same
position, then grind oft the clamp retaining
spot weld. Remove the clamp.
Primary catalytic
converter removal
20 Referto Section 18, paragraphs 1 to 93
for removal and refitting details for the primary
catalytic converter fitted between the exhaust
front pipe and manifold.
Heat shield(s}
removal
21 The heat shields are secured to the
underside of ihe body by various nuts and
threaded caps. Each shield can be removed
once the relevant exhaust section has been
removed. If a shield Is being removed to gain
access to a component located behind It, it
mav prove sufficient in some cases to remove
3 The exhaust system consists ot five
sections comprising a primary catalytic
converter, a front pipe, a diesel particulate
filter, an intermediate pipe, and a tailpipe and
silencer
4 The front pipe is attached to the primary
catalytic converter and diesel particulate filter
by flange joints secured by nuts. All other
exhaust sections are joined by overlap joints
which are secured by clamps. The system
Is suspended throughout its entire length by
rubber mountings.
All m o d e l s
5 To remove an individual exhaust section,
the complete system is first removed as a
19.12 Separate the exhaust front pipe from
the catalytic converter and recover the
gasket
the retaining nuls/caps, and simply lower the
shield, vjithout disturbing the exhaust system.
If any ol the threaded caps are damaged
during removal, a suitable nut and washer can
be used when refitting.
Refitting
22 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
sequence, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion have
new gastei and new retaining nuts, and
been removed from the system joints and
tighten the nuts to the specified torque
renev/ all disturbed clamps.
e) Prior to tightening tiie exhaust system
b) Vifhen refitting the pnmarycat^ytic
clamps, ensure that all mbber mountings
converter, refer to Section 18, paragrapti 27.
are conectly located, and tiiat there Is
c) Inspect the rubtier mountings for signs
adequate clearance ftehveen (he exhaust
of damage or deterioration, and renew as
system and vehicle underbody Tighten
necessary.
the clamp bolt retaining nuts to the
dj When reconnecting a flange joint, use a
specified torque.
Chapter4 PartC:
Emission control systems
Contents
Section n u m b e r
Catalytic converter - general information and precautions
Diesel engine emission control systems - testing and component
renewal
4
3
Section number
General Infonnation
Petrcil engine emission contrcil systems - testing and component
renewal
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice wIBi little
expeiience
^
^
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fairly difficult.
suitafcJe tor competent
DIY mechanic
Specifications
Torque w r e n c h settings
Petrol engines
EGR valve boHs:
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Oxygen sensor for catalytic converter (in exhaust front pipe):
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Oxygen sensor for mixture regulation (in exhaust manifold):
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engines
EGR valve heat exchanger mounting bolt
EGR vaive heat exchanger mounting nut
EGR valve heat exchanger pipe flange bolts
EGR valve mounting tiolts/nuts
Oxygen sensor
Particulate filter temperature sensor
Pre-catalytic converter temperature sensor
Vacuum reservoir mounting bracket bolts
^
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
5^
' 1
General i n f o r m a t i o n
1 All petrol engine models use unleaded
petrol and also have various other features
built into the fuel system to help minimise
harmful emissions. These include a cran incase
emission control system, a catalytic converter,
an evaporative emission control system and,
on certain models, an exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR] system to keep fuel vapour/exhaust gas
omissions down to a minimum.
2 All diesel engine models are also designed to
meet sthct emission requirements. Tbe engines
are fitted with a crankcase emission control
system, a catalytic converter and, on certain
models, a diesel particulate filter to keep
exhaust emissions down to a minimum. An
exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system is also
fitted to further decrease exhaust emissions.
3 The emission control systems function as
follows.
Petrol
engines
Crankcase emission control
4 To reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase into the
atmosphere, the engine is sealed and the
blow-by gases and oil vapour are drawn from
inside the crankcase, through an oil separator,
into the inlet tract to be burned by the engine
during normal combustion,
5 Under all conditions the gases are foroed
out of the crankcase by the (relatively) higher
crankcase pressure; it the engine is worn, the
raised crankcase pressure (due to increased
blow-by) will cause some of the flow to return
under all manifold conditions.
Exhaust emission control
6 To minimise the amount of pollutants which
escape into the atmosphere, all models are
fitted with a catalytic converter in the exhaust
system. The system is of the closed-loop type.
In which the oxygen sensors in the exhaust
system provides the fuel injection/ignition
system ECU with constant feedback, enabling
the ECU to adjust the mixture to provide the
bent oossible conditions for the converter to
operate-
petrol of 14,7 parts (by weight) of air to 1 part
of fuel (the 'stoichiometric' ratio). The sensor
output voltage alters in a large step at this
point, the ECU using the signal change as a
reference point and correcting the intake air/
fuel mixture accordingly by altenng the fuel
injector pulse width.
Evaporative emission control
9 To minimise the escape into the atmosphere
of unburned hydrocarbons, an evaporative
emissions control system is also fitted to all
models. The fuel tank filler cap is sealed and
a charcoal canister is mounted on the fuel
tank. The canister collects the petrol vapoure
oenerated in the tank when the car is parked
and stores them until they can be cleared
from the canister (under the control of the fuel
injection/ignition system ECU) via the purge
valve into the inlet tract to be burned by the
engine during normal combustion,
10 To ensure that the engine runs conectly
when it Is cold and/or idling and to protect
the catalytic converter from the effects of an
over-rich mixture, the purge control valve is
not opened by the ECU until the engine has
warmed-up, and the engine is under load; the
valve solenoid is then modulated on and off to
allow the stored vapour to pass into the inlet
tract.
Exhaust gas recirculation system
11 This system is designed to recirculate
small quantities ot exhaust gas into the inlet
tract, and therefore into the combustion
process. This process reduces the level of
unburn! hydrocartions present in the exhaust
gas before it reaches the catalytic converter.
Tbe system is controlled by the fuel injection/
ignition ECU, using the information from its
various sensors, via the electrically-operated
EGR valve mounted on a housing bolted to
the left-hand end of the cylinder head,
Diesel
engines
Crankcase emission control
12 Refer to paragraphs 4 and 5,
Exhaust emission control
7 Two heated oxygen sensors are fitted to
tne exhaust svstem. The sensor nearest
the ennine innrom the catalytic converter]
determines the residual oxygen content of
tne exnaust nases for mixture correction,
I no sensor in tho exhaust front pipe (after
the catalytic converter) monitors the function
of the catalytic converter to give the driver a
warning signal if there is a fault.
13 To minimise the level of exhaust pollutants
released into the atmosphere, two catalytic
converters, or one catalytic converter and a
diesel particulate filter are fitted in the exhaust
system, acconding to model,
14 The catalytic converter consists of a
canister containing a fine mesh impregnated
with a catalyst material, over which the hot
exhaust gases pass. The catalyst speeds up
the oxidation of harmful carbon monoxide and
unburned hydrocarbons, effectively reducing
the quantity of harmful products released info
the atmosphere via the exhaust gases,
B The oxygen sensor's tip is sensitive to
oxygen and sends the ECU a varying voltage
signal depending on the amount of oxygen in
the exhaust gases. Peak conversion efficiency
of all major pollutants occurs if the intake air/
fuel mixture is maintained at the chemicallycorrect ratio for the complete combustion of
15 On certain models, a diesel particulate
filter is incorporated in the exhaust system and
contains a silicon carbide honeycomb block
containing microscopic channels in which the
exhaust gases flow. As the gases flow through
the honeycomb channels, soot particles are
deposited on the channel walls. To prevent
clogging of the honeycomb channels, the soot
particles are burned off at regular intervals
during what is known as a 'regeneration
phase'. Under the control of the injection
system ECU, the injection characteristics
are altered to raise the temperature of the
exhaust gases to approximately 600°C.
At this temperature, the soot particles are
effectively burned off the honeycomb walls as
the exhaust gases pass through, A differential
pressure sensor and two temperature sensors
are used to infomi the ECU of the condition of
the particulate filter, and the temperature of the
exhaust gases during the regeneration phase,
V/hen the ECU detects that soot build-up is
reducing the efficiency of the particulate filter,
It will instigate the regeneration process.
This occurs at regular intervals under certain
driving conditions and will normally not be
detected by the driver.
Exhaust gas recirculation system
16 This system is designed to recirculate small
quantities of exhaust gas into the inlet tract,
and therefore into the combustion p
process reduces the level of unburnt
hydrocarbons present in the exhaust gas before
it reaches the catalytic converter. The system is
controlled by the injection system ECU, using
the information from its various sensors, via t f »
electrically-operated EGR valve,
2
Petrol e n g i n e e m i s s i o n
c o n t r o l s y s t e m s - testing
and component renewal
^
^
C r a n k c a s e emission
control
1 Tbe components of this system require no
attention other than to check that the hose(s)
are clear and undamaged at regular inten/als.
Evaporative
emission
control
Testing
2 If the system is thought to be faulty,
disconnect the hoses from the charcoal
canister and purge control vaive and check
that they are clear by blowing through them.
Full testing of the system can only be carried
out using specialist electronic equipment
which is connected to the engine management
system diagnostic connector If the purge
control valve or charcoal canister are thought
to be faulty, they must be renewed.
Charcoal canister renewal
3 The charcoal canister is located on the fuel
tank. To gain access to the canister, remove
the fuel tank as described in Chapter 4A.
4 With the fuel lank removed, disconnect
the vapour hose quick-release fittings at the
charcoal canister,
5 Detach the locking clamp and release the
canister from its mounting bracket on the fuel
tank. Remove the canister from the tank.
6 Refitting Is a reverse of the removal
procedure, ensuring the hoses are correctly
and secur^y reconnected.
Purge valve renewal
7 The purge valve le mounted on the inlet
manifold (see illustration). For Improved
access, v/here necessary, remove the air cleaner
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
8 To renew the valve, ensure the ignition is
switched off then depress the retaining clip
and disconnect the wiring connector trom the
valve.
9 Disconnect the hoses fmm fhe valve, noting
their correct fitted locations then unclip and
remove the valve from the engine.
10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring the valve is fitted the
correct way around and the hoses are securely
connected.
Exhaust
emission
control
Testing
11 The performance of the catalytic converter
can be checked only by measuring the
exhaust gases using a good-quality carefullycalibrated exhaust gas analyser.
12 If the CO level at the tailpipe is too high,
the vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall/
Opel dealer or engine diagnostic specialist so
that the complete fuel injection and ignition
systems. Including the oxygen sensors, can
be thoroughly checked using diagnostic
equipment. This equipment will give an
Indication as to where the fault lies and the
necessary components can then be renewed.
Catalytic c o n v e r t e r r e n e w a l
13 The catalytic converter is an integral part
of the exhaust manifold. Exhaust manifold
removal and refitting procedures are contained
in Chaptw4A.
Oxygen sensor renewal
Note 1: TTjere are two fieated oxygen sensors
fitted to tfie exfmust system. The sensor in the
exhaust manifold is for mixture regulation and
the sensor In the exhaust front pipe is to checl<
the operation of the catalytic converter (see
Section 1).
Note 2: The oxygen
IS delicate and
will not work if it is dropped . )r knocked, if its
power supply is disrupted, i >r if any cleaning
materials are used on it
14 Warm the engine up to
3l operating
temperature then stop the engine and
disconnect the tiattery negative terminal (refer
to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference
Chapter). Remove the plastic cover from the
top of the engine.
15 For fhe sensor fitted in the exhaust front
pipe, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack
up the front of the car and support it securely
on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
support).
16 Trace the wiring back from the oxygen
sensor w^ich is to be renewed, and disconnect
its wiring connector, freeing the wiring from
any relevant retaining clips or ties and noting
its correct routing.
Caution: Take great care not burn yourself
on the hot mantfoW/sensor,
2.7 lyplcal purge vahre location
(arrowed)
17 Unscrew the sensor and remove it from
the exhaust system front pipe/manifold (see
illustration). Where applicable recover the
sealing washer and discard it; a new one
should be used on refitting.
18 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, using a new sealing washer (where
applicable). Prior to installing the sensor,
apply a smear of high-temperature grease to
the sensor threads (Vauxhall/Opel recommend
the use of special grease available from your
dealer). Tighten the sensor to the specified
torciue and ensure that the wiring is correctly
routed and in no danger of contacting either
the exhaust system or engine.
Exhaust
gas
recirculation
Testing
19 Comprehensive testing of the system can
only be carried out using specialist electronic
equipment which Is connected to the engine
management system diagnostic connector.
EGR valve renewal
20 Ensure the ignition is switched off then
disconnect the wiring connector from the EGR
valve which mounted at the left-hand end of
the cylinder head (see illustration).
21 Undo the mounting bolts and remove the
valve from Its location. Recover the gasket.
22 Refitting is the reverse of removal uang a
new gasket and tightening the valve tiolts to
the specified torciue.
3
Diesel e n g i n e e m i s s i o n
c o n t r o l s y s t e m s - testing
and component renewal
Crankcase
emission
^
^
*t
should be taken to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer so
that the complete fuel injection system can be
thoroughly checked.
Catalytic c o n v e r t e r /
particulate filter renewal
3 Refer to Chapter 4B, for removal and
refitting details.
O x y g e n s e n s o r / p r e - c a t a lytic
converter t e m p e r a t u r e s e n s o r renewal
Note: An oxygen sensor is fitted to vehicles
without a diesel particulate filter, and a
pre-catalytic converter temperature sensor is
fitted to vehicles vnth a diesel particulate filter
Bath sensors are screwed into the exhaust
manifold and the removal and refitting details
are identical.
4 Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature then stop the engine and
disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer
to Disconnecting the battery in tiie Reference
Chapter), Remove the plastic cover from the
top of the engine,
5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Undo the retaining bolts and screws and
remove the engine undertray
6 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector,
then unclip the wiring plug from the bracket
on the front of the transmission.
Caufron: Tatie great care not burn yourself
on the hot manifold/sensor.
7 Unscrew the sensor and remove it from the
exhaust manifold (see Illustration).
8 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
control
1 The components of this system require
no attention other than to check that the
hose(s) are clear and undamaged at regular
Intervals.
Exhaust
emission
control
Testing
2 The performance of the catalytic converter(s)
and diesel particulate filter can only be
checked using special diagnostic equipment.
If a system fault Is suspected, the vehicle
2.20 Disconnect the
(arrowed) from the EGR valve
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter). Rwiove the plastic cover
over the top of the engine.
26 Disconnect the EGR valve wiring
connector.
27 Unscrew the two bolts on the top of the
valve and detach the metal EGR pipe flange
from the base of the valve. Recover the gasket
(see Illustration).
28 Unscrew the two nuts and two bohs
securing the EGR valve to the inlet manifold
and lift off the engine cover bracket (see
3.7 Unscrew ttie oxygen sensor (arrowed)
and remove it from the exhaust manifold
procedure Prior fo installing the sensor, apply
a smear of high-lemperature grease to the
sensor threads (Vauxhall/Opel recommend
the use of a special grease available from your
dealer). Tighten the sensor to the specified
tonque and ensure that the wiring is correctly
routed and in no danger of contacting either
ttte exhaust system or engine.
Particulate filter
t e m p e r a h i r e s e n s o r renewal
9 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Undo the retaining bolts and screws and
remove the engine undertray.
10 Trace the wiring from the sensor back to
the connector in the engine compartment.
Disconnect the wiring connector, then release
the wiring frc>m the clips on the underbody.
11 Unscrew the retaining nut and remove the
temperature sensor from the diesel particulate
filter
12 Refitting is the reverse of removai tightening the sensor retaining nut to the specified
tonque.
Differential pressure s e n s o r renewal
13 The differential pressure sensor is located
on ihe side of the fuel filter crash box in the
engine compartment.
14 Disconnect the pressure sensor wiring
connector
15 Undo the retaining nut and withdraw the
sensor frcim the fuel filter crash box.
16 Noting their correct fitted positions,
release the retaining clips and disconnect the
3.27 Unscrew the two bolts, detach the
metal EGR pipe flange and recover the
gasket
3.23 EGR valve retaining boHs (arrowed)
two vacuum hoses from the sensor. Remove
the sensor from the engine compartment.
17 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Exhaust
system
gas
recirculation
Testing
18 Comprehensive testing of the system can
only be canied out using specialist electronic
equipment virhich Is connected to the Injection
system diagnostic wiring connector.
EQR valve renewal - Z19DT engines
19 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery In the
Reference Chapter). Remove the plastic cover
over the top of the engine.
20 Disconnect the EGR valve wiring
connector.
21 Undo the two bolts and disconnect the
metal EGR pipe from the throttle housing.
Recover the gasket,
22 Undo the two bolts securing the EGR
heat exchanger metal pipe to the base of the
valve.
23 Undo the three bolts securing the EGR
valve to the inlet manifold (see illustration).
Remove the valve together with the engine
lifting eye bracket and recover the gasket
fitted on each side of the lifting eye bracket.
24 Refitting is the reverse of removal using
new gaskets and tightening the retaining bolts
to the specifled tonque.
EGR valve renewal - Z19DTH engines
25 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
3.28 Unscrew the two nuts and two boHs
(arrovwd) securing the EQR vahre to the
inlet manifold
29 To provide sufficient clearance to remove
the valve, it wili be necessary to unscrew the
two mounting studs from the manifold. To do
this, lock two nuts together on each stud and
remove the studs by unscrewing the inner
nut.
30 With the studs removed, lift off the valve
and recover the gasket (see Illustration).
31 Refitting is the reverse of removal using
new gaskets and tightening the retaining nuts
and bolts to the specified torque.
EGR valve heat e x c h a n g e r
renewal - Z19DT engines
32 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
33 Remove the plastic cover over tiie top of
the engine.
34 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
35 Slacken the retaining clips and remove
the charge air pipe from the throttle housing
and intacooler.
36 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the two coolant hoses from the metal coolant
pipe assembly at the rear of the engine.
37 Unscrew the two nuts securing the wiring
harness and coolant pipe assembly to the
starter motor bracket and the nut securing the
pipes to the thermostat housing stud. Free the
harness and pipes from the bracket.
38 Slacken fhe retaining clips securing the
remaining coolant hoses to the coolant pipe
assembly and manoeuvre the pipe assembly
from the engine.
39 Undo tbe two bolts securing the rear metal
EGR pipe to the EGR valve. Undo the retaining
nut and boit and release the metal EGR pipe
clamp from the EGR valve heat exchanger.
a s o Lift off the valve end recover the
Separate the pipe from the heat exchanger
and recover the gasket from the pipe fitting.
40 Similarly, undo the retaining nut and bolt
and release the tront metal EGR pipe clamp
fnam the EGR valve heat exchanger.
41 Free the vacuum reservoir mounting
bracket fnam the rear of the cylinder block by
undoing the three mounting bracket retaining
bolts.
42 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the two coolant hoses from the EGR valve heat
exchanger Undo the retaining nut and bolt
securing the heat exchanger to the cylinder
head and remove the heat exchanger from the
engine.
43 Refitting is the reverse of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) Renew all disturbed gaskets and seals,
b} Tighten the retaining bolts/nuts to the
specified torque.
c) Rem the battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A.
d) Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
EGR valve heat exchanger
renewal - Z19DTH engines
44 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter IB.
45 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
46 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
47 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the two coolant hoses from the metal coolant
pipe assembly at the rear of the engine.
48 Unscrew the two nuts securing the wiring
harness and coolant pipe assembly to the
starter motor bracket and the nut securing the
pipes to the thennostat housing stud. Free the
harness and pipes from tiie bracket.
49 Slacken the retaining clips securing the
remaining coolant hoses to the coolant pipe
assembly and manoeuvre the pipe assembly
from the engine.
50 Remove the thermostat housing as
described in Chapter 3.
51 Slacken the retaining clips and remove
the charge air hose from the turbocharger and
intercooler.
52 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the coolant hose from ttie metal coolant pipe
at the front of tiie engine.
53 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the coolant hoses from the EGR valve heat
exchanger.
54 Undo the two bolts securing the rear metal
EGR pipe to ttie EGR valve. Undo the retaining
nut and bolt and release the metal EGR pipe
clamp from the EGR valve heat exchanger.
Separate the pipe from the heat exchanger
and recover the gasket from the pipe fitting.
55 Similariy, undo the two bolts securing the
front metal EGR pipe to ihe exhaust manifold.
Undo the retaining nut and bolt and release
the metal EGR pipe clamp from the EGR valve
heat exchanger. Separate the pipe from the
heat exchanger and recover the gasket from
ihe pipe fitting.
56 Undo the two bolts and remove ihe heat
exchanger from the engine.
57 Refitting is the reverse of removal, bearing
in mind fhe following points:
a) Renew ali disturlsed gaskets and seals.
b) Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
tongue.
c) Refit the thennostat housing as described
in Chapter 3.
d) Refit the battery tray and battery as
described in Chapter SA.
e) Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter W.
4
Catalytic c o n v e r t e r general information
and precautions
1 The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
Petrol
engines
a) DO NOT use leaded petrol (or LRP) in a
car equipped with a catalytic converter
- the lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b) Always keep the Ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer's schedule.
c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the car at all (or at least as Uttie as
possible) until the fault Is cured
d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the car this will soak the catalytic converter in
unbumed fuel, causing it to overheat
when ttie engine does start.
e) DO NOT switch off the Ignition at high
engine speeds.
f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter
g) DO NOT continue to use tiie car If the
engine bums oil to the extent of leaving a
visible tiail of blue smoke.
h) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures.
DO NOT, therefore, park the car In dry
undergrowtii, over long grass or piles of
dead leaves after a long nin.
I) Rememtier that the catalytic converter
is FRAGILE - do not strike it wltii tools
during servicing work.
j) In some cases a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped cars and
once the car has covered a few thousand
miles the problem should disappear. It
may also be caused by the brand of petrol
used.
k) The catalytic converter, used on a wellmaintained and well-driven car, should last
for between 50 000 and 100 000 miles - if
tiie converter Is no longer effective it must
be renewed.
Diesel
engines
2 Refer to the information given In parts f, g,
h, i and k of the petrol engines information
Chapters Part A:
Starting and charging systems
Contents
Section numtier
Section number
Alternator - removal and refitting
Wternator - testing and overtiaul
Auxiliary drivetielt - removal and refitting
Auxiliary drivetielt lensioner - removal and refitting
Battery and battery box - removal and refitting
Battery-testing and charging
Charging system - testing
Electrical fault finding - general infonnation
General information, precautions and battery disconnection
Glow plugs [diesel engine models) - removal, inspection and
refitting
8
9
6
7
4
3
5
2
1
17
Ignition switch - removal and refitting
13
Oil level sensor-removal and refitting
15
Oil pressure warning light switch - removal and refitting
14
Pre/post-heating system (diesel engine models) - descnption and
testing
16
Pre/post-heating system control unit (diesel engine models) - removal
and refitting
18
Starter motor - removal and refitting
11
Starter motor-testing and overhaul
12
Starting system - testing
10
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
FaiHydifncuK,
%
suitable for c o m p e t e n t ^
DfY mechanic
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
«
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
General
Electrical system type
Battery
Type
Charge condition:
Poor
Normal
Good
12 volt negative earth
Lead-acid, 'maintenance-free' (sealed for life)
12.5 volts
12.6 volts
12.7volts
^
|J»
3c
Torque w r e n c h settings
Alternator:
Petrol engine models:
1.8 litre Z18XE engines:
Alternator mounting bracket to cylinder block
Alternator-to-mounting bracket lower bolt
Alternator-to-mounting bracket upper bolt
1-8 litre ZISXER engines:
Alternator mounting bolts
2.2 litre engines:
Alternator mounting bolts
Diesel engine models:
Alternator mounting boits
Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner:
Petrol engine models:
1.8 litre engines:
Z18XE
ZISXER
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
Engine mountings (2.2 litre petrol engines):
Front mounting/torque link bracket to transmission
Frant mountingAonque link to subframe
Rear mounting/tonque link bracket to transmission
Rear mounting/tonąue link to transmission bracket
Right-band engine bracket-to-cylinder liead bolts
Right-hand mounting-to-body bolts/nut
Right-hand mounting-to-engine bracket bolts
Exhaust system fnxit pipe to catalyCc converter (2.2 litre petrol engines) .
Glow plugs
Oil pressure warning light switch:
Petrol engine models:
1,8 litre engines:
Z18XE
ZIBXER
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
Roadwheel tx>lts
Starter motor:
Petrol engine models;
1.8 litre Z18XE engines:
Inlet manilold support bracket to cylinder block
Inlet manifold support bracket to manifold
Starter motor mounting bolts
1.8 litre ZISXER engines:
Inlet manifold support bracket bolts
Starter motor mounting bolts
2.2 litre engines:
Starter motor mounting bolts
Diesel engine models
1
Generaf i n f o r m a t i o n ,
p r e c a u t i o n s a n d battery
disconnection
Tbo onciine electncal system consists mainly
of the charging and starting systems, and
the diesel engine pre/post-heat ing system.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are covered separately
fram the body electrical devices such as the
lights, instruments, etc (which are covered In
Nm
Ibff
35
35
20
26
26
15
35
26
20
15
60
44
35
50
43
50
26
37
32
37
80
80
80
80
55
55
55
20
10
69
59
59
59
41
41
41
15
7
30
20
18
22
110
22
16
13
1S
81
35
20
25
26
15
18
8
25
6
18
40
25
30
Chapter 12). On petrol engine models refer to
Part B for information on the ignition system.
The electrical system is of 12-vclt negative
earth type.
The battery is of the maintenance-free
(sealed for iife) type, and is charged by the
alternator, which is belt-driven from the
crankshaft pulley.
The starter motor is of pre-engaged type
incorporating an integral solenoid. On starting,
the solenoid moves the drive pinion into
engagement with the flywheei/drivepiate ring
ia
gear before the starter motor is energised.
Once the engine has started, a one-way clutch
prevents the motor armature being driven bf
the engine until the pinion disengages.
Further details of the various systems are
given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given,
the usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned.
Precautions
It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the eiectrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistofs), and to avoid the risi< ol
personal Injury. In addition to the precautions
given in Safety firstl at the beginning of this
manual, observe the following when working
on the system:
• Always remove rings, watches, etc, before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, capacitlve discharge
could occur if a component's live terminal is
earthed through a metal object. This could
cause a shock or nasty burn.
• Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as ttie alternator electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably
damaged.
• If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive-to-positive and negative-tonegative (see Jump starting). This also applies
when connecting a battery charger but in this
case both of the battery temiinals should first
be disconnected,
• Never disconnect the battery terminals,
the alternator, any electrical wiring or any test
instruments when the engine is mnning.
• Do not allow the engine to turn the alternator
when the alternator is not connected.
• Never test for alternator output by flashing
the output lead to earth.
• Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
• Always ensure that the battery negative
lead Is disconnected when working on the
electrical system.
• Before using electric-arc welding equipment
on the car, disconnect the battery, alternator
and components such as the fuel injection/
ignition electronic control unit to protect them
from the risk of damage.
Battery
disconnection
Referlotheprecautionslisted in Disconnecting
the battery in the Reference Chapter.
.2
Eiectrtcai fault f i n d i n g general information
Referto Chapter 12.
?3
i~
Batterytesting and charging
•n-aditional and
low maintenano
batteiy
1 If the vehicle covers aI small
smallai
annual mileage,
it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity
of the electrolyte every three months to
determine the state of charge of the battery.
Use a hydrometer to make the check and
compare the results with the following table.
Note that the specific gravity readings assume
an electrolyte temperature of 15*^; for every
10°C below 15°C subtract 0.007. For every
I C C above IS'C add 0.007.
Ambient temperature
Above
Below
25''C
25"C
Fully-charged 1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.290
70%charged 1.170to1.190
l.230toi.250
Discharged
1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130
2 If the battery condition is suspect, first check
the specific gravity of electrolyte in each cell,
A variation of 0.040 or more between any cells
Indicates loss of electrolyte or deterioration of
the internal plates.
3 If the specific gravity variation Is 0,040 or
more, the battery should be renewed. If the
cell variation is satisfactory but the battery is
discharged, it should be charged as described
later in ttiis Section.
Maintenance-free battery
4 Where a 'sealed for life' maintenance-free
battery is fitted, topping-up and testing of the
electrolyte in each cell is not possible. The
condition of ttie battery can therefore only be
tested using a battery condition indicator or a
voltmeter.
5 Some models are f i t t e d w i t h a
maintenance-free battery with a built-in
'magic-eye' charge condition indicator. The
indicator is located In the top of the battery
casing, and indicates the condition of ihe
battery from its colour (see lllustratLon). If
the indicator shows green, then the battery
is in a good state of charge. If the indicator
turns darker, eventually to black, then the
battery requires charging, as described later
in this Section. If the Indicator shows clear/
yellow, then ihe electrolyte level In ttie battery
is too low to allow further use, and the battery
should be renewed. Do not attempt to charge,
load or jump start a battery when the indicator
shows clear/yellow.
All battery types
6 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,
connect the voltmeter acnass the battery
and compare the result with those given in
the Specifications under 'charge condition'.
The test is only accurate if the battery has
not been subjected to any kind of charge for
the previous six hours. If this is not the case,
switch on ttie headlights for 30 seconds, then
wait four to five minutes before testing the
battery after switching off the headlights. All
other electrical circuits must be switched off,
so check that tiie doors and tailgate are fully
shut when making the test.
7 If ttie voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,
then the battery is discharged, whilst a reading
of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates a partiallydischarged condition.
8 If the battery Is to be charged, remove if
from the vehicle (Section 4) and charge it as
described later in this Section.
3,5 Battery rfiarge condition Indicator'Deico- type battery
Charging
Note: The following Is intended as a guide
only Alvmys refer to the manufacturer's
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery
Traditional and
low maintenance battery
9 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4 amps
and continue to charge the battery at this rate
until no further rise In specific gravity Is noted
over a four hour period.
10 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging
at the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used
overnight.
11 Specially rapid 'boost' charges which are
claimed to restore the power of ttie battery in
1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they
can cause serious damage to the battery
plates through overtieating.
12 While charging the battery, note that the
temperature of the electrolyte should never
exceed 38''G.
Maintenance-free battery
13 This battery type takes considerably
longer to fully recharge than the standand
type, tiie time taken tieing dependent on ihe
extent of discharge, but it will take OTything
up to three days.
14 A constant voltage type charger is required,
to be set, when connected, to 13.9 to 14.9 volts
with a charger ounent below 25 amps. Using
this method, the battery should be usable
within three hours, giving a vox,
3 Where fitted, unclip the insulation jacket and
lift open the jacket cover (see illustration).
4 Disconnect the lead at the negative (-)
terminal by unscrewing the retaining nut
and removing the terminal clamp (see
Illustrations). Note that the battery negative
(-) and positive (+) terminal connections are
stamped on the battery case.
5 Disconnect the lead at the positive (+)
terminal by
ins the retaining n ; and
Refitting
Note: As a precaution, before refitting the
battery checlz that ali doors are uniocked.
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
smear petroleum jelly on the terminals after
reconnecting the leads to reduce corrosion,
and always reconnect the positive lead first,
followed by the negative lead.
Battery box
Removal
9 Remove tho battery as descnbed previously
1 ^
4.12 On diesel engine models, unclip the
pre/post-heating system control unit from
the side of the battery box
4.4a Unscrew the battery negative (-)
terminal retaining n u t . . .
4.11 Depress the tab and release the
positive cable tenninal box from the side
of the battery box
10 Release the cooiant expansion tank hose
from the clips on the side ot the battery box
(see Illustration).
11 Depress the plastic tab and release the
positive cable tenninal box from the side of
the battery box (see illustration).
12 On diesel engine models, unclip the pre/
post-heating system control unit from the side
of the battery box (see illustration).
13 On 2.2 litre automatic transmission
models, unclip the transmission electronic
control unit mounting bracket and lift the
control unit and bracket upwands and out of
the battery box,
14 Depress the retaining tab and lift out the
battery box comer panel (see illustrations).
15 Release the battery cable guides Inam the
base of the battery box, by depressing the
retaining tabs with a small screwdriver, and
pulling outwands (see illustration).
16 Undo the three retaining bohs and lift
-
4.14a Depress the retaining t a b . . .
4.14b . . . and lift out the battery box
comer panel
the battery box up and out of the e
compartment (see illustration).
Refitting
17 Befitting is a reversal of removal.
5
Charging
testing
Note: Refer to the precautions given in 'Safety
firsti- and in Section 7 of this Chapter before
starting wortr.
1 If the ignition no-charge warning light fails
to illuminate when the ignition is switched on,
first checl( the alternator wiring connections
for security. If satisfactory, check the condition
of all related fuses, fusible links, winng
connections and earthing points, if this fails
to reveal the fault, the vehicle shouid be taken
to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer or auto-electrician,
as further testing entails the use of specialist
diagnostic equipment.
2 If the ignition warning light illuminates when
the engine is running, stop the engine and
check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt
(see Chapter 1A or 1B) and the security of the
alternator wiring connections, if satisfactory,
have the alternator checked by a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or auto-olectrician,
3 if the alternator output is suspect even
though the warning light functions correctly
the regulated voltage may be checked as
follows.
4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals, and start the engine,
5 Increase the engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; the reading
should be appnaximately 12 to 13 volts, and
no more than14volts.
6 Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg, the headlights, heated rear window and
heater blower) as possible, and check that the
4.15 Depress the rt
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
araundl3,5to14-5 volts.
7 If the regulated voltage is not as staled,
the fault may be due to worn brushes, weak
brush springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a
faulty diode, a severed phase winding, or
worn or damaged slip-rings. The alternator
should be renewed or taken to a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or auto-electrician for testing
and repair
6
Auxiliary d r i v e b e l t removal and refitting
Refer lo Chapter l A or I B
7
'
Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner
- removal and refitting
Removal
1.8 litre petrol e n g i n e s
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the ftwit of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (sea Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A.
3 Undo the central mounting bolt, and remove
the tensioner assembly from the engine (see
Illustrations).
2.2 litre petrol engines
7.3a Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner1.8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
7 Central mounting bolt
2 Locking tool
4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
5 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
6 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
7 Remove the righl-hand front roadwheel.
8 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1A.
9 Undo the three nuts securing the exhaust
system front pipe to the catalytic converter,
taking care to support the flexible section.
Note: Angular movement in excess of W
4.16 Undo the three boKs (vFOwed) and
lift out the battery box
can cause permanent damage to the flexible
section. Separate the flange joint and recover
the gasket.
10 Undo the through-bolt secuhng the rear
engine mounting/torque link to the mounting
bracket, and the three bolts securing the
mounting bracket to the transmission. Remove
the mounting bracket from under the car
11 Unscrew the nut and remove the
through-bolt securing the front engine
mounting/torque link to the subframe.
12 Connect a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the right-hand end of the engine and support
its weight. If available, the type of support bar
which locates in the engine compartment side
channels is to be preferred.
13 Mark the bolt positions for correct
refitting, then undo the three bolts securing
the right-hand engine mounting to the engine
bracket, and the two boits and one nut
securing the mounting to the body Remove
the mounting.
14 Using the hoist, carefully raise the
right-hand end of the engine until the bolts
securing the engine mounting bracket to the
cylinder head are accessible. Undo the three
bolts and remove the engine bracket,
15 Reposition the hoist as necessary, then
undo the drivebelt tensioner central mounting
bolt. Remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine (see Illustration).
Diesel engines
16 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
tfie front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands Ises Jackina and vehicle siinoorb.
7.3b Auxiliary drivetKlt tensioner
mounting bolt (arrowed) 1.8 litre ZISXER petrol engines
2.2 litre petrol engines
17 Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
18 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter IB.
19 Undo the central mounting bolt, and
remove the tensioner assembly from the
engine (see illustration).
RemUng
1.8 litre petrol e n g i n e s
20 Place the tensioner assembly in position
ensuring that the locating pegs on the
tensioner mounting surace engage correctly
w/ith Hie corresponding holes In ihe mounting
bracket. Tighten the tensioner central
mounting bolt to the specified torque.
21 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
22 Refit the roadwheel then lower fhe oar to
the ground. Tighten the roadwhe^ bolts to the
specified torque.
2.2 litre petrol engines
23 Place the tensioner assembly in position
ensuring that the locating peg on the tensioner
mounting surface engages correctly with the
corresponding hole In the timing chain cover.
Tighten the tensioner central mounting txilt to
the specified tonque.
24 Refit the engine mounting bracket to the
cylinder head and tighten the three retaining
bolts to the specified torque.
25 Locate ihe right-hand engine mounting
in position, then refit the three bolts securing
the mounting to the engine bracket and the
two bolts and one nut securing tiie mounting
to the body. Align the mounting in its original
position, then tighten the bolls and nut to the
specified ion^ue.
26 Remove the hoist and lifting tackle from
ihe engine.
27 Refrt the through-bolt and nut securing
the front engine mouniing/tonque link to the
subframe. Tighten the nut to the specified
torciue.
28 Place the rear engine mounting/torque link
mounting bracket in position and refit the three
and remove the
bolts securing ihe bracket to tiie transmission.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
29 Refit the rear engine mounting/torque
link thrciugh-bolt and tighten the bolt to the
specified tonque.
30 Using a new gasket, refît ihe exhaust front
pipe flange joint to the catalytic converter and
tighten tiie three retaining nuts to the specified
tongue,
31 Refit fhe auxiliary drivebelt as described in
ChapterIA.
32 Refit ihe roadvrtieel then lower ihe car to
the ground. Tighten fhe roadwheel bolts to the
specified tonque.
33 Refer to Chapter 4A If necessary and refit
the air cleaner assembly and air intake duct.
34 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal
8
Alternatorremovai and refitting
^
gJiflllflilrillTltttllWtHifellllffiriliil^'
Re/nova/
35 Place the tensioner assembly in position
ensuring that the locating peg on the tensioner
mounting surface engages con-ectly with the
conesponding hole in the mounting bracket.
Tighten the tensioner central mounting bolt to
the specified tongue.
3$ Refit tiie auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter IB.
37 Refit the rciadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighigffi tiie roadwheel bolts to the
specified torque.
1.8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front rciadwheel.
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
4 Release the quick-release fittings and
disconnect the two evaporative emission
control purge valve vacuum hoses. Disconnect
the wiring connector, undo the retaining bolt
and remove the purge valve.
5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in ChapterIA.
6 Undo the central mounting bolt, and remove
the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner assembly from
the engine (see illustration 7.3a).
7 Remove the upper alternator mounting
bolt.
8 Slacken the lower alternator bolt, and swing
the alternator to the rear
9 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring
connector and move the cable to one side.
10 Remove the mbber covers (where frtted)
from the alternator terminals, then unscrew
the retaining nuts and disconnect the wiring
from the rear of the alternator.
11 Slacken and remove the bolts securing
the alternator mounting bracket to the cyiinder
block, then manoeuvre the alternator and
bracket assembly upwarcls and out of position
8.11 /Uternator mounting bracket bolts
(arrowed) - 1 ^ litre ZieXE petrol engines
12 Undo the bolt securing ihe alternator to
its mounting bracket and separate the two
components {see illustration).
Diesel engines
8.12 Undo the bolt securing the aHernalor to
its mounting bracket and separate the two
components - 1 . 8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
1.8 litre Z18XER petrol engines
13 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tlie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
14 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vetiicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
15 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1A.
16 Remove the rubber covers (where fitted)
from the alternator terminals, then unscrew
the two retaining nuts and disconnect the
wiring from the rear of the alternator
17 Unscrew the upper and lower mounting
bohs and withdraw the alternator upwards
from the block.
2.2 litre petrol engines
18 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery m the
Reference Chapter).
19 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the nght-hand front roadwheel.
20 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as descnbed in Chapter 4A.
21 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1A.
22 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1A,
23 Release the retaining clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the cylinder head.
24 Release the quick-release fittings and
8.30 Alternator mounting bracket bolts
arrowed - 2.2 litre petrol engines
8.29a Undo the retaining n u t . ,
disconnect the two evaporative emission
contrai purge valve vacuum hoses. Disconnect
the wiring connector, then unclip and remove
the purge valve,
25 Unscrew the nut and remove the
through-bolt securing the front engine
mounting/tonque link to the subframe.
26 Connect a suitable hoist and lifting tackle
to the right-hand end ot the engine. If available,
the type of support bar which locates in the
engine compartment side channels is to be
prefened.
27 Mark the bolt positions for con-ect refrtting,
then undo the two bolts and one nut securing
the right-hand engine mounting to the body
28 Using the hoist, carefully raise the
nght-hand end of the engine approximately
3.5 cm.
29 Unscrew the retaining nut and disconnect
the wiring terminal (see Illustrations), then
unplug the winng block connector from the
rear of the alternator
30 Slacken and remove the four alternator
mounting boWs. and manoeuvre the alternator
out of position (see lllustratton).
8.29b . . . and disconnect the wiring
tenminal - 2.2 litre petrol engines
34 Undo the alternator lower front mounting
bolt (see Illustration).
35 Remove the fuel filter crash box as
described in Chapter 4B,
36 On Z19DTH engines, undo the two bolts
securing the wiring harness support bracket
to the high-pressure fuel pump mounting
bracket, Unclip the wiring harness as
necessary and move it clear of the alternator
37 Unscrew the two retaining nuts and
disconnect Ihe wiring connectors from the
alternator terminals.
38 Undo the alternator upper rear mounting
bolts and manoeuvre the alternator upwards
and out of position (see illustration).
Refitting
1.8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
31 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
32 Finnly apply the handbrake, then Jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
33 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1B,
39 Refit the mounting bracket to the alternator
and secure with the mounting txilt, lightened
finger-tight only at tliis stage.
40 Manoeuvre the alternator and mounting
bracket assembly into position and refit the
mounting bracket retaining bolts. Tighten the
bolts to the specifed torque.
41 Reconnect the wiring to the alternator
terminals and tighten the retaining nuts
securely Where applicable, refit the rubtier
covers to the alternator terminals.
42 Reconnect the wiring to the oil pressure
switch.
43 Refit the alternator upper mounting bolt,
then tighten the upper and lower mounting
bolts to the specitied tonque.
44 Place the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner
8.34 Alternator lower front mounting bolt
(arrowed) - diesel engines
8.38 Alternator upper rear mounting bolts
(arrowed) - diesel engines
Diese) engines
assembly in position ensuring that the locating
pegs on the tensioner mounting surface
engage conectly with the corresponding holes
in the mounting bracket. Tighten the tensioner
central mounting boit to the specified torque,
45 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
46 Refit the evaporative emission control
purge valve and secure with the mounting
bolt. Reconnect the two vacuum hose
quick-release fittings.
47 Refh the air cleaner assembly and air
Intake duct as described in Chapter 4A.
48 Refit the roadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the
specified torque.
49 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative tenninai.
1.8 litre ZISXER petrol engines
50 Manoeuvre the alternator into position
and refit the upper and lower mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
51 Reconnect the wiring to the alternator
terminals and tighten the retaining nuts
securely. Where applicable, refit the rubber
covers lo the alternator terminals.
62 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
53 Refil the roadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighten tho roadwheel boNs to the
specified torque.
54 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal.
2.2 litre petrol engines
55 Manoeuvre the alternator into position and
iBfit the four retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts
to the specified tomue.
66 Reconnect the alternator wiring block
connector and the terminal wiring, tightening
the retaining nut securely
57 Lower the engine until Ihe right-hand
engine mounting contacts the body.
68 Refit the two bolts and one nut securing
the mounting to the body Align the mounting
in Its original position, then tighten the bolts
and nut to the specified torque.
59 Remove the hoist and lifting tackle from
the engine.
60 Refit the through-bolt and nut securing
Ihe front engine mounting/torque link to the
subframe. Tighten the nut to the specified
torque.
61 Refit the emission control purge valve,
then reconnect the vacuum hoses and wiring
connector
62 Reconnect the radiator top hose to the
cylinder head.
63 Retit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1A.
64 Refil the air cleaner assembly and air
intake duct as described in Chapter 4A,
86 Refit the roadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighten the roadwheel t>oits to the
specified torque.
66 Reconnect the battery negative tenninal,
then refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1 A.
Diesel engines
67 Manoeuvre the alternator into position and
refit the upper rear retaining bolt(s). Tighten
the bolt(s) finger-tight only at this stage.
68 Reconnect the wiring to the alternator
terminals and tighten the retaining nuts securely
69 On Z19DTH engines, refit the wiring
harness support braci^el to fhe fuel pump
mounting bracket and secure with the two
bolts. Clip the wiring harness back Into
position In the bracket.
70 Refit the alternator lower front mounting
bolt, then tighten the upper and lower
mounting bolts to the specified torque.
71 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter IB.
72 Refil the fuel filter crash box as described
in Chapter 4B.
73 Refit the roadwheel then lower the car to
the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts fo the
specified torque.
74 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative ten-ninai.
9
Alternatortesting and overhaul
3^
If the alternator is thought to be suspect,
it should be removed from the vehicle and
taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most
auto-eleclricians will be able lo supply and fit
bmshes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs before proceeding as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange alternator
10 Starting s y s t e m testing
Note: Refer to the precautions given in 'Safety
first!' and in Section 1 ol this Chapter before
starting work.
1 If the starter motor fails to operate when
the ignition key is turned to the appropriate
position, the possible causes are as follows:
a) Tfie engine immobiliser is faulty.
b) The battery is faulty.
c) The electncal connections between the
switch, solenoid, battery and starter
motor are somewhere failing to pass
the necessary current from the tiattery
through the starter to earth.
d) The solenoid is faulty.
e) The starter motor is mechanically or
electrically defective.
2 To check the battery, switch on the
headlights. If they dim after a few seconds,
this indicates that the battery is discharged recharge fsee Section 3) or renew the battery.
If the headlights glow brightly operate the
starter switch while watching the headlights.
If they dim, then this indicates that cun-ent
is reaching the starter motor, therefore Ihe
fault must lie in the starter motor If Ihe lights
continue to glow brightly (and no clicking
sound can be heard from the starter motor
solenoid), this indicates that there is a fault
in the circuit or solenoid - see the following
paragraphs. If the starter motor turns slowly
when operated, but the battery is in good
condition, then this indicates either that the
starter motor is faulty, or there is considerable
resistance somewhere in the circuit.
3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery leads (including the earth
connection to the body), the starter/solenoid
wiring and the engine/transmission earth
strap. Thoroughly clean the connections, and
reconnect the leads and wiring. Use a voltmeter or test light to check lhat full battery
voltage is available at the battery positive lead
connection to the solenoid. Smear petroleum
jelly around the battery terminals to prevent
corrosion - corroded connections are among
the most frequent causes of electrical system
faults.
4 if the battery and all connections are in good
condition, check the circuit by disconnecting
the ignition switch supply wire from the solenoid
terminal. Connect a voltmeter or test lamp
between the wire end and a good earth (such
as the battery negative terminal), and check
that the wine is live when the ignition switch is
turned to the 'start' position. If it is, then the
circuit is sound - if not the circuit wiring can be
checked as described in Chapter 12.
5 The solenoid contacts can be checked by
connecting a voltmeter or test light between
the battery positive feed connection on the
starter side of the solenoid and earth. When
the ignition switch is turned to the 'start'
position, there should be a reading or lighted
bulb, as applicable. If there is no reading or
lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should
be renewed.
6 If the circuit and solenoid are proved sound,
the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this
event, it may be possible to have the starter
motor overhauled by a specialist, but check
on the cost of spares before proceeding, as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange motor.
11 Sterter m o t o r removai and refittingr
Removal
1.8 litre petrol engines
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to O/sconnecf/ng the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle supped).
3 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring at the
cable connector below the inlet manifold.
4 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the support bracket from the underside of the
inlet manifold.
5 Slacken and remove the two retaining nuts
and disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor solenoid. Recover the washers under
the nuts.
6 Where applicable, unscrew the retaining nut
and disconnect the earth lead from the starter
motor upper bolt.
7 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts
then manoeuvre the starter motor out from
underneath the engine.
2.2 litre petrol engines
8 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tho battery in the
Reference Chapter).
9 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front ot the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jaddng and vehicle support).
10 Disconnect the wiring connector at the oil
level sensor located on the front face of the
sump.
11 Slacken and remove the two retaining
nuts, release the cable tie and disconnect
the wiring from the starter motor solenoid.
Recover the washers under the nuts.
12 Disconnect the crankshaft sensor wiring
connector.
13 Slacken and remove the two retaining
bolts then manoeuvre the starter motor out
from underneath the engine.
11.16d . . . a n d lift off the plastic engine
cover ~ Z19DT diesel engines
Diesel engines
14 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
15 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front ot the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
16 On Z19DT engines, remove the oil filler
cap and unscrew the two bolts securing
the plastic cover over the top of the engine.
Release the engine breather hose, then lift
off the cover and refit the oil filler cap (sae
illustrations). On Z19DTH engines, remove
the plastic cover by pulling it upwards off the
mounting studs.
17 Undo the retaining bolts and screws and
remove the undertray from beneath the engine,
18 Slacken and remove the two retaining nuts
and disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor solenoid (see illustration}. Recover the
washers under the nuts,
19 Unscrew the retaining nut and disconnect
the earth lead from the starter motor lower
stud bolt (see Illustration).
20 Open the retaining clips and release
the two heater hoses from the coolant pipe
support bracket.
21 Undo the two nuts and release the wiring
harness from the support bracket atjove the
starter motor (see Illustration).
22 Carefully lift the cooling system expansion
tank out of its mounting bracket and place the
tank to one side.
23 Unscrew the starter motor tower stud
bolt and the two upper mounting bolts (see
illustration). Collect the wiring harness
support bracket then manoeuvre the starter
motor upwards and out of position.
Refitting
24 Refitting is a reversal of removal
tightening the retaining bolts lo fhe specified
torque. Ensure all wiring is correctly
routed and its retaining nuts are securely
tightened.
11.18 Undo the nuts (arrowed) and
disconnect the starter solenoid wiring
- diesel engines
11.19 Unscrew the nut (arrowed) and
disconnect the earth lead from the starter
motor stud bolt - diesel engines
11.21 Undo the nuts and release the wiring
harness from the support bracket - diesel
11,23 Unscrew the botts (am)wed), collect
the wiring hamess bracket and remove ttie
starter from above - diesel engines
rning light switch
eZtSXE petrol engine:
12 Starter m o t o r testing and overtiaul
If the starter motor is thought to be suspect,
it should be removed irom the vehicle and
taken to an auto-electrician for testing, Ivfost
auto-electricians wiii be able to supply and fit
bmshes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs liefore proceeding as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange motor
. 13 Ignition s w i t c h removal and refitting
The switch is integral with the steering
column lock, and removal and refitting is
described in Chapter 10,
14 Oil p t ^ s s u r e
w a r n i n g light s w i t c h removal and refitting
1 ^ litre Z18XE petrol engines
1 The switch is screwed into tho ro
14,8 Oil pressure warning light switch
(arroweo) - 2.2 litre petrol engines
refer to Chapter 3 and unbolt the air
conditioning compressor from the cylinder
block without disconnecting the refrigerant
lines. Support the compressor lo one side
for access to the oil pressure warning light
switch7 Disconnect the wiring connector then
unscrew the switch and recover the sealing
washer. Be prepared for oil spillage, and if the
switch IS to be left removed from the engine for
any length of time, plug ttie switch aperture,
2.2 litre petrol e n g i n e s
8 The switch is screwed into the front of the
cylinder block, behind the starter motor (see
Illustration). To gain access to the switch, it
will be necessary to remove the starter motor
as described in Section 11.
9 Disconnect the wiring connector then
unscrew the switch and recover the sealing
washer. Be prepared for oil spillage, and if the
switch is to be left removed from the engine for
any length ot time, plug the switch aperture.
Diesel engines
10 The switch is screwed into the oil filter
housing at the rear of the engine (see
11 Finriiy apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
12 Undo the retaining bolts and screws
iinu remove the undertray from beneath the
engine.
13 Disi
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
3 Disconnect the winng connector then
unscrew the switch and recover the sealing
washer Be prepared for oil spillage, and if the
switch is to be left removed from the engine
for any length of time, plug the switch aperture
(see illustration),
Refitting
14 Examine the sealing washer for signs
of damage or deterioration and if necessary
15 Befit the switch and washer, tightening
it to the specified torque, and reconnect the
winng connector
16 On 2.2 litre petrol engines, refit the starter
motor as described in Section 11.
17 On diesel engine models, refit the engine
undertray.
IB Lower the vehicle to the ground then
check and, if necessary, top-up the engine oil
as described in Weekly checks.
15 Oil level s e n s o r removal and refitting
;^
Removal
1.8 litre Z18XE pefrol engines
1 The oil level sensor is located on the front
face of the engine sump,
2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
3 Drain the engine oil into a clean container
then refit the drain plug and tighten it to the
specitied torque (see Chapter 1 A).
4 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
5 Unscrew the retaining bolts then ease
the sensor out from the sump and remove
it along with its sealing ring/washer. Discard
the sealing ring/washer, a new one should be
used on refitting (see illustration).
All other engines
1.8 litre Z18XER petrol e n g i n e s
4 The oil pressure warning light switch is
screwed into the front of the cylinder block.
5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
6 On models equipped whh air conditioning.
14.10 Oil pressure warning lights'
(arrowed) - diesel engines
washer. Be prepared for oil spillage, and
if the switch is to be left removed from the
engine for any length of time, plug the switch
aperture.
1S.S Remove the oil level sensor am
renew ttie seal - 1.8 litre Z18XE
petrol engines
6 The oil level sensor is located inside the
sump which must first be removed (see the
appropriate Part of Chapter 2).
7 With the sump removed, slide off the
retaining clip and free the sensor wiring
connector from the sump (see Illustration).
8 Where fitted, undo the retaining bolts and
15.7 Slide off the retaining clip (am>wed}
and free ti>e oil level sensor wiring
connector from the sump
remove the oii baffie plate from inside the
sump (sea illustration).
9 Note the correct routing of the wiring then
undo the retaining tiolts and remove the sensor
assembly from the sump (see illustration).
Cheolt the wiring connector seal for signs or
damage and rem
Refitting
1.8 litre Z18XE petrol engines
10 Refitting is the reverse of removal ensunng
the wiring is correctly routed and securely
reconnected. On completion refiti the engine
with oil (see Chapter 1A).
All other engines
11 Prior to refitting remove ail traces of
locking compound from the sensor retaining
troit and sump threads. Apply a drop of fresh
locking compound to the bolt threads and
lubricate the wiring connector seal with a
smear of engine oil.
12 Fit the sensor making sure the winng
is correctly routed, and securely tighten its
retaining bolts. Ease the wiring connector
through the sump, taking care not to damage
its seal, and secure it in position with the
retaining clip.
13 Ensure the sensor is correctly refitted then,
where applicable, refit the oil baffle plate.
14 Refit the sump as described in the
appropriate Part of Chapter 2.
-16 Pre/post-heating system
(diesel e n g i n e models) description and testing
^
Description
1 Each cyiinder of the engine is fltted with a
heater plug (commonly called a glow plug)
screwed into it. The plugs are electricallyoperated before and during start-up when
the engine is cold. Electrical feed to the glow
plugs Is controlled via the pre/post-heating
system control unit.
2 A warning light in the instrument panel tells
the driver that pre/post-heating is taking place.
When the light goes out, the engine is ready
to be started. The voltage supply to the glow
plugs continues for several seconds after the
light goes out. If no attempt is made to start.
15.8 Where fitted, undo the retaining bolts
and remove the oil baffle plate
the timer then outs off the supply, in order to
avoid draining the battery and overheating the
glow plugs.
3 The glow plugs also provide a 'post-heating'
function, whereby the glow plugs remain
switched on after the engine has started.
The length of time 'post-h eating' takes place
is also determined by the control unit, and is
dependent on engine temperature.
4 The fuel filter is fitted with a heating element
to prevent the fuel 'waxing' in extreme cold
temperature conditions and to improve
combustion. The heating element is an integral
part of the fuel filter housing and is controlled
by the pre/post-heating system control unit.
resting
5 If the system malfunctions, testing is
ultimately by substitution of known good units,
but some preliminary checks may be made as
follows.
6 Connect a voltmeter or 12 volt test lamp
between the glow plug supply cable and earth
(engine or vehicle metal). Make sure that the
live connection is kept clear of the engine and
bodywort<.
7 Have an assistant switch on the ignition,
and check that voltage is applied to the glow
plugs. Note the time for which the warning
light is lit, and the total time for which voltage
Is applied before the system cuts out. Switch
off the ignition.
8 At an underbonnet temperature of 20*0,
typical times noted should be approximately 3
seconds for warning light operation. Warning
light time will increase with lower temperatures
and decrease with higher temperatures.
9 If there is no supply at all, the control unit or
associated wiring is at fault,
10 To locate a defective glow plug, disconnect
Ihe wiring connector from each plug,
11 Use a continuity tester, or a 12 volt
lest lamp connected to the battery positive
terminal, to check for continuity between each
glow plug tenninal and earth. The resistance
of a glow plug in good condition is very low
(less than 1 ohm), so if the test lamp does
not light or the continuity tester shows a
high resistance, the glow plug is certainly
defective.
12 If an ammeter is available, the current
draw of each glow plug can be checked.
After an Initial surge of 15 to 20 amps, each
15.9 Undo the two bolts (arrowed) and
remove the oil level sensor Irom the sump
plug should draw 12 amps. Any plug which
draws much more or less than this is probably
defective,
13 As a final check, the glow plugs can be
removed and Inspected as described in the
following Section.
1 7 G l o w p l u g s (diesel engine
models) - removal,
inspection and refitting
i,^
^
Caution: It the pre/post-heating
system
has just been energised, or if the engine
has been running, thm glow plugs will be
very hot.
Removal
1 Tbe glow plugs are located at the rear of the
cylinder head above the inlet manifold,
2 On 219DT engines, remove the oil filler cap
and unscrew the two bolts secunng the plastic
cover over the top of the engine. Release the
engine breather hose, then lift off fhe cover and
refit the oil filler cap (see illustrations I l . l 6 a
to l l . l S d ) . On Z19DTH engines, remove
the plastic cover by pulling it upwards off the
mounting studs.
3 On Z19DT engines, undo the two retaining
bolts, disconnect the four vacuum hoses and
remove the vacuum pipe assembly from the
top of the camshaft cover.
4 Disconnect the wiring from the glow plugs
by squeezing the connectors with thumb and
forefinger, and pulling them from the plugs,
5 Unscrew the glow plugs and remove them
from the cylinder head (see Illustration).
17.5 Unscrew the glow plugs and
them from the cylinder head Z19DTH diesel engines
Inspection
6 Inspect each glow plug for physical
damage. Burnt or eroded glow plug tips can
be caused by a bad injector spray pattern.
Have the injectors checked if this type of
damage is found.
7 If the glow plugs are in good physical
condition, check them electrically using a 12
volt test lamp or continuity tester as described
in the previous Section,
8 The glow plugs can be energised by
applying 12 volts to them to verify that they
heat up evenly and in the required time.
Observe the following precautions.
a) Support ths glow plug by clamping It
carefully in a vice or self-locking pliers.
Remember it wilt become red-hot.
b) Mate sure that the power supply or test
lead incorporates a fuse or overload trip
to protect against damage fromashortc) After testing, allow the glow plug to cool
for several minutes before attempting to
handle it
9 A glow plug in good condition will start
to glow red at the tip after drawing current
for 5 seconds or so. Any plug which takes
much longer to start glowing, or which starts
glowing in the middle instead of at the tip, is
defective.
Refitting
10 Carefully refrt the plugs and tighten to the
specified torque. Do not overtighten, as this
can damage the glow plug element. Push
the electrical connectors fimly onto the glow
plugs.
11 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
removal, checking the operation of the glow
plugs on compietior-.
18 Pre/post-heating s y s t e m
control unit (diesef engine
modefe) - removal and refitting
^
Removal
1 The pre/post-heating system control unit
is located on fhe left-hand side of the engine
compartment where it is mounted onto the
side of the battery box.
18.3 Unolip the control unit and slide It up
and off the battery box
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chaptei^,
3 Unclip the control unit and slide it up and
off the battery box (see illustration).
4 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
base of the control unit and remove the unit
from the engine compartment.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Chapter 5 Part B:
Ignition system - petrol engines
Contents
Section number
Section number
jgnilion module - removai and refitting
Ignition system - general information
Ignition system - testing
3
1
2
4
5
Ignition timing - checlting and adjustment..
Knock sensor - removal and refitting
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fairly difficult.
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
^
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
;K
3c
DIY or professional
3c
Specifications
General
System type
System application:
1,8 litre engines:
Z1SXE
ZISXER
2.2 litre engines
Location of No 1 cylinder
Rringorder
Dlstributorless ignition system
Simtec71.5
Simtec 75.1
Simtec 81,1
Timing chain/timing belt end of engine
1-3-4-2
Torque wrench setting
Ignition module retaining bolts
1
Ignition s y s t e m general information
Ttie ignition system is integrated with the
fuel injection system to form a combined
engine management system under the contnal
oi one electnanic control unit (ECU) - see
Chapter 4A for further information. The ignition
side of the system is of the dlstributorless
type, and consists of the ignition module and
the knock sensor
The ignition module consists of four ignition
coils, one per cylinder in one casing mounted
directly above the spark plugs. This module
eliminates the need for any HT leads as the
coils locate directly onto the relevant spark
plug. The ECU uses its inputs from the various
sensors to calculate the required ignition
advance setting and coll charging time.
The knock sensor is mounted onto the
cylinder block and informs the ECU when the
engine is 'pinking' under load. The sensor
is sensitive to vibration and detects the
knocking which occurs when the engine starts
to 'pink' (pre-ignite). The knock sensor sends
Nm
8
an electrical signal to the ECU which in turn
retards the ignition advance setting until the
'pinking' ceases.
The ignition systems fitted to the engines
covered by this manual all operate in a similar
fashion under the overall contn^l of the engine
management ECU. The systems comprise
various sensors (whose inputs also provide
data to contml the fuel injection system) and
the ECU, in addition to the ignition module
and spark plugs. Further details of the system
sensors and the ECU are given in Chapter 4A,
The ECU selects the optimum ignition
advance setting based on the mformation
received from the various sensors, and fires
the relevant ignition coil accordingly. The
degree of advance can thus be constantly
varied to suit the prevailing engine operating
conditions.
A
Warning: Due to ttio high voltages
produced try the electronic ignition
' system, extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with
the ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically-Implanted
cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the ignition
circuits, components and test equipment.
IW ft
6
2
Ignition s y s t e m testing
1 if a fault appears in the engine management
system, frst ensure lhat all the system wiring
connectors are securely connected and free
of corrosion. Ensure that the fault is not due
to poor maintenance; ie, check that the air
cleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped,
the cylinder compression pressures are conect
and that the engine breather hoses are clear
and undamaged, referring to Chapters 1A, 2A
and 2B for further infonnation.
2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause of
the problem, the vehicle should be taken to
a suitably-equipped Vauxhall/Opel dealer or
engine management diagnostic specialist
for testing. A diagnostic socket is located at
the base of the facia, behind the ashtray, to
which a fault code reader or other suitable
test equipment can be connected (see
illustration). By using the code reader or test
equipment, the engine management ECU can
be interrogated, and any stored fault codes
£ 2 The vehicle diagnostic socket
(arrowed) is located at the base of the
facia, behind the ashtray
3.2 On 1.8 litre Z18XER engines, rt
the ignition module cover by sikling it
towards the transmission and lifting off
can be retrieved. This will allow the fault to be
quickly and simply traced, alleviating the need
to test all the system components individually,
which is a time-consuming operation that
carries a risk of damaging the ECU,
3 The only ignition system checks which
can be carried out by the home mechanic
are those described in Chapter 1A relating
to the spark plugs. If necessary, the system
wiring and wiring connectors can be checked
as described in Chapter 12, ensuring that
the ECU winng connector(s) have first been
disconnected.
2 On 1,8 litre Z18XER engines, unclip the
wiring trough from the left-hand end of the
cylinder head, then remove the cover from
the ignition module by sliding it towards the
transmission and lifting off (see illustration),
3 On 2.2 litre engines unclip and lift off the
plastic engine cover, then lift off the cover
over the ignition module (see Illustration),
4 Disconnect the wiring connector at the
left-hand end of the ignition module (see
illustration).
5 Undo the retaining bolls, and lift the module
up and out of position (see illustration). If the
module proves reluctant to separate from the
spark plugs, insert two long 8 mm bolts into
the threaded holes in the top of Ihe module,
and pull up on the bolts to free the module
from the plugs.
6 With the module removed, check the
condition of the sealing gnammets and renew
if necessary (see illustration).
3
;
Ignition m o d u l e -
^
removal and refitting
^
Removal
1 On 1.8 litre Z18XE engines, remove the oil
filler cap and unscrew the two trolls securing
the plastic cover over the top of the engine.
Lift off the cover and refit the oil filler cap.
3.3 On 2.2 litre engines, remove the enqine
cover, then unclip and lift olt the ignrtion
module cover
4
Ignition t i m i n g checking and adjustment
Due to the nature of the ignition system, the
ignition timing Is constantly being monitored
and adjusted by the engine management
ECU.
The only way in which the ignition timing can
be checked is by using specialist diagnostic
test equipment, connected to the engine
management system diagnostic socket. No
adjustment of the ignition timing is possible.
Should the ignition timing be incorrect, then
a lault IS likely to be present in the engine
management system.
5
K n o c k sensor removal and
Refitting
7 Refitting is the reversal of removal, tightening
the retaining botts to the specified tongue.
3,5 Undo the retaining bolts and pull the
ignition module up ana orf tne sparK plugs
^
3.6 Check the condition of the sealing
grommets ana rene
^
Chapter 6
Clutch
Contents
Section number
Section number
Clutch assembly - removal, inspection and refitting
Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding
Clutch pedal - removal and refitting
6
2
6
General Information
Master cylinder - removal and refitting . .
Release cylinder - removal and refitting..
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
^
Fairiy easy, suitable I
for tieginner with
|
some experience
^
Fairly difficult,
|
suitable for competent 3
Difficult, suitable
^
for experienced DIY >
mechanic
v
Veiy difficult,
suitable for expert ;
DIY or professional •
Specifications
Type
Single dry plate with diaphragm spring, hydraulically-operated
Friction disc
Diameter;
Petrol engine models:
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
New lining thickness:
Petrol engine models:
1.8 litre engines
2.2 litre engines
Diesel engine models
Torque wrench settings
ABS hydraulic modulator mounting bracket bolts
Brake master cylinder retaining nuts'
Clutch master cylinder retaining nuts*
Pedal mounting bracket nuts"
Pressure plate retaining bolts:
M7 bolts
MB bolts
Release cylinder mounting bolts
Vacuum sen/o unit stud bolts*
* Use new nuts/bolts
205 mm
228 mm
239 mm
7.65 mm
8.4 mm
7.8 mm
Nm
ibffi
20
50
20
20
15
37
15
15
15
28
5
20
11
21
4
15
have been fitted, or if fhe system has been
completely drained of hydraulic fluid. If the
system has only been disconnected to allow
component removal and refitting procedures
to be carried out. such as removal and refitting
of the transmission (for example for clutch
renewal) or engine removal and refitting, then
it is quite likely that nonnal bleeding will be
sufficient.
4 Our advice would therefore be as follows:
a) If the hydraulic system has only been
partially disconnected, try bleeding by
the conventional methods described in
paragraphs 10 to 15, or 16 to 19.
2 C l u t c h h y d r a i i i i c s y s t e m -b) If the hydraulic system has been
bleeding
completely drained and new components
have been fitted, try bleeding by using the
pressure bleeding metfiod described in
paragraphs 20 to 22.
Note: On models equipped witii ttie Easytronic
0) If tiie above methods fail to produce
transmission, tlie foiiowing manual method
a firm pedal on completion, it will be
of bleeding the clutch is not possible since
the hydraulic control unit is integral with the
necessary to 'tuack-bleed' the system
transmission. On these models, bleeding is
using Vauxhall/Opel bleeding equipment,
carried out using the VauxhallfOpel TECH2
or suitable alternative equipment as
diagnostic instrument, therefore this work
descrilDed in paragraphs 23 to 28.
should be entnjsted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer. 5 During the bleeding procedure, add
only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the
Warning:
Hydraulic
fluid
is
recommended
type; never re-use fluid that
poisonous; wash off immediately
and thoroughly in the case of
has already been bled from the system.
skin contact, and seek immediate medical
Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before
advice if any fluid is swallowed or gets
starting work.
into the eyes. Ceiiain types of hydraulic
6 If there Is any possibility of incorrect fluid
fluid are flammable, and may ignite when
being already in the system, the hydraulic
allowed into contact with hot components;
circuit must be flushed completely with
when servicing any hydraulic
system,
uncontaminated, correct fluid.
it is safest to assume that the fluid is
7 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the
system, or air has entered because of a leak,
dtots
the rfsft of ffre as though it is petrol that Is ensure that the fault is cured t>efore continuing
being handled. Hydraulic fluid Is also an further
effective paint stripper, and will attack
8 The bleed screw is located in the hose
plastics; if any is spilt, it should be washed
end fitting which is situated on the top of
off immediately, using copious quantities the transmission housing (see illustration).
of fresh water Finally, it is hygroscopic (ft On some models access lo the bleed screw
absorbs moisture from the air) - old fluid
is limited and it may be necessary to jack up
may be contaminated and unfit for further the frant of the vehicle and support it on axle
use. When topping-up or renewing the
stands so that the screw can be reached from
fluid, always use the recommended type,
below, or remove the battery and battery box
and ensure that it comes from a freshlyas described in Chapter 5A, so that the screw
opened sealed container.
can be reached from above.
1 The correct operation Of any hydraulic 9 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
system is only possible after removing all unions tight and the bleed screw is closed.
air fram the components and circuit; this is Clean any dirt from around tiie bleed screw.
achieved by bleeding the system.
2 The manufacturer stipulates that the system Bleeding
must be initially bled by the 'back-bleeding'
method using Vauxhall/Opel special bleeding Basic (two-man) m e t h o d
equipment. This entails connecting a pressure 10 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length
bleeding unit containing fresh brake fluid to the of plastic or rubber tubing which Is a tight fit
release cylinder bleed screw, with a collecting over the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fH
vessel connected to the brake fluid master the screw. The help of an assistant will also be
cylinder reservoir. The pressure bleeding unit required.
is then switched on, the bleed screw is opened
11 Unscrewthemastercylinderfluidreservoir
and hydraulic fluid is delivered under pressure, cap (the clutch shares the same fluid reservoir
backwards, to be expelled from the reservoir as the braking system), and top the master
into the collecting vessel. Final bleeding is cylinder reservoir up to the upper (MAX) level
then earned out in the conventional way
line. Ensure that the fluid level is maintained at
3 In practice, this method would normally least above the lower level line in the n
only be required if nem hydraulic components throughout the prc>cedure.
selector lever. Ttiere is no conventional clutcti
pedal fitted.
The Easytronic system essentially consists
of a conventional manual gearbox and clutch
fifted with electrical and hydraulic controls,
the clutch being operated by a clutch module
attached to the side of the transmission
casing. Refer to Chapter 7C for more
information. The clutch component removal
and refitting procedures are included in this
Chapter as they are very similar to those for
the standard manual transmission.
3 Clutch bleed screw
(arrowed)
" 1
Qetieral i n f o n n a t i o n
The clutch consists of a friction disc, a
pressure plate assembly, and the hydraulic
release cylinder (which incorporates the
release bearing}: all of these components are
contained in the large cast-aluminium alloy
bellhousing, sandwiched between the engine
and the transmission.
The friction disc Is fitted between the engine
flywheel and the clutch pressure plate, and
is allowed to slide on the transmission Input
shaft splines.
The pressure plate assembly is bolted to the
engine flywheel. When the engine is mnning.
drive Is transmitted from the crankshaft,
via the flywheel, to the friction disc (these
components being damped securely together
by the pressure plate assembly) and from the
friction disc to the transmission Input shaft.
To interrupt the drive, the spring pressure
must be relaxed. This is achieved using a
hydraulic release mechanism which consists
of the master cylinder, the release cylinder and
the pipe/hose linking the two components.
Depressing the pedal pushes on the master
cylinder pushrod which hydraulically forces the
release cylinder piston against the pressure
plate spring fingers. This causes the springs
to deform and releases the clamping force on
the friction disc.
The clutch is self-adjusting and requires no
manual adjustment.
The clutch pedal support and clutch pedal
are one assembly and must be renewed
as a complete unit. In the event of a frontal
collision, the clutch pedal is released from its
bearing in the support bracket to prevent injury
to the driver's feet and legs (this also applies
to the brake pedal). If an alrbag has been
deployed, inspect the clutch pedal assembly
and if necessary renew the complete unit.
Setni-automotic
clutch
Models equipped with the Easytronic MTA
(Manual Transmission with Automatic shift), are
fttted with a semi-automatic clutch. The clutch
may be operated either fully-automatically
or semi-automati cai ly by means of the gear
A
Clutch
12 Remove the dust cap from the bleed
screw. Fit the spanner and tube to the screw,
place the other end of ttie tube in the Jar, and
pour in sufficient fluid to cover the end of the
tube.
13 Have the assistant fully depress fhe clutch
pedal several times tc build-up pressure, then
maintain it on the final down stnake.
14 While pedal pressure is maintained,
unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
turn) and allow the compressed fluid and
air to flow into fhe jar The assistant should
maintain pedal pressure and should not
release it until instructed to do so. When the
flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again,
have the assistant release the pedal slowly,
and recheck the reservoir fluid level.
15 Repeat the steps given tn paragraphs 13
and 14 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
cylinder has been drained and refilled allow
approximately five seconds between cycles
for the master cylinder passages to refill.
Using a o n e - w a y valve Itit
to the bleed screw located in the hose end
fitting situateo on the top of the transmission
housing (see illustration 2.8). Connect
the other end of the hose to a suitable
pressure bleeding device set to operate at
approximately 2.0 bar
25 Attach the cap (fvlKM-6174-2} to the
master cylinder resen/oir, and place the hose
in a collecting vessel.
26 Switch on the pressure bleeding
equipment, open the bleed screw, and allow
fresh hydraulic fluid to How from the pressure
bleeding unit, through the system and out
through the top of the reservoir and into
the collecting vessel. When fluid, free from
air bubbles appears in the reservoir, close
the bleed screw and switch off the bleeding
equipment.
16 As their name Implies, these kits consist of
a length of tubing with a one-way valve fitted,
to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn
back into the system; some kits include a
translucent container, which can be positioned
so that the air bubbles can be more easily
seen flowing from the end of the tube.
17 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened.
18 The user returns to the driver's seat,
depresses the clutch pedal with a smooth,
steady stroke, and slowly releases it; this is
repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air
bubbles,
19 Note that these kits simplify work so
much that it is easy to forget the clutch lluid
reservoir level; ensure that this is maintained
at least above the lower level line at all timesPressure-bleeding m e t h o d
29 When bleeding is complete, no more
bubbles appear and correct pedal feel is
restored, tighten the bleed screw securely
(do not overtighten). Remove the tube and
spanner, and wash off any spilt fluid. Refit the
dust cap tc the bleed screw.
30 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if
necessary (see Weekly checks).
31 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has been
bled from the system; it will not be fit for
20 These kits are usually operated by the
reservoir of pressurised air contained in the
spare tyre. However, note that it will probably
be necessary to reduce the pressure to a lower
level than normal; refer to the instructions
supplied with the kit.
21 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
container to the clutch fluid reservoir, bleeding
can be carried out simply by opening the
bleed screw and allowing the fluid to flow out
until no more air bubbles can be seen in the
expelled fluid,
22 This method has the advantage that the
large reservoir of fluid provides an additional
safeguard against air being drawn Into the
system during bleeding.
'Back-bleeding' method
23 The following procedure describes
the bleeding method using Vauxhall/Opei
equipment. Alternative equipment is available
and should be used in accordance with the
makw's instructions.
24 Connect the pressure hose(MKM-6174-1)
27 Disconnect the bleeding equipment from
the bleed screw and reservoir.
28 Carry out a final conventional bleeding
procedure as described in paragraphs 10 to 15,
or 16 to 19.
All m e t h o d s
32 Check the operation of the clutch pedal.
If the clutch is still not operating correctly,
air must still be present In the system, and
further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed
satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of
the bleeding procedure may be due to worn
master cylinder/release cylinder seals.
3
Master c y l i n d e r removal and refitting
Note 1: New master cylinder retaining nuts
will be required for refitting.
Note Z: This procedure does not apply to
models fitted with the Easytronic transmission.
6*3
3.5 Extract the retaining clip (arrowed)
and disconnect the hydraulic pipe from the
master cylinder connector
4 Remove all traces of dirt from the outside
of the master cylinder and the brake/clutch
hydraulic fluid reservoir, then position some
cloth beneath the cylinder to catch any spilt
fluid,
5 Extract fhe retaining clip and disconnect
the hydraulic pipe from the connector on ttie
end of the master cylinder (see Illustration).
Plug the pipe end and master cylinder port to
minimise fluid loss and prevent the entry of
dirt.
6 Release the retaining clip (where fitted)
and disconnect the fluid supply hose from
the brake/clutch hydraulic fluid n
7 From inside the car remove the lower facia
panel on the driver's side as described in
Chapter 11.
8 Where fitted, remove the clutch switch from
the pedal mounting bracket.
9 Separate the clutch pedal from the master
cylinder piston rod by releasing the retaining
clip at the pedal. Vauxhall technicians use a
special tool to do this, however, the clip may
be released by pressing the retaining tabs
together using screwdrivers, while at the
same time pulling the clutch pedal reanwards.
Note; Do not remove the clip from the master
cylinder piston rod, just release it from the
pedal.
10 On diesel engine models, move the
bulkhead Insulation to one side for access
to the master cylinder retaining nuts. Use
a plastic wedge or similar tool to retain the
insulation clear ot the nuts.
Removal
R i g h t - h a n d drive m o d e l s
1 Where fitted, remove the plastic cover over
the top of the engine.
2 Release the clutch hydraulic pipe from the
support clip(s) on the bulkhead,
3 Unscrew the brake/clutch hydraulic fluid
reservoir tiller cap, and top-up the reservoir
to the f^AX mark (see WeeWy checks). Place
a piece of polythene over the filler neck,
and secure the polythene with the filler cap.
This will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations.
3.6 Release the retaining clip (arrowed)
and disconnect the fluid supply hose from
dangers of asbestos dust at the beginning of
Section 6.
Note 3: On models equipped with the
Easytronic transmission, Vauxhall/Opei TECH2
diagnostic equipment will be required to bleed
the clutch hydraulic system and carry out a
clutch Contact Point Determination program.
If this equipment is not available, the following
procedure should be entrusted to a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer.
Removai
4.2 C l u b * relaase cylinder hydraulic pipe
union nut (an-owed)
11 Unscrew tlie two nuts securing the master
cylinder to the tiulkhead, then return to the
engine compartment and remove the master
cylinder trom the vehicle. If the master cylinder
Is faulty it must be renewed; overhaul of the
unit is not possible.
Left-hand drive models
12 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
13 Pull up the locking bar and disconnect
the ABS wiring harness multiplug connector
from the electronic contrai unit located on the
tiydraullc modulator
14 Undo the two bolts securing the ABS
hydraulic modulator mounting bracket to
the bulkhead. Taking great care not to strain
the hydraulic brake pipes, carefully lift the
modulator and mounting bracket upward to
disengage the mounting bracket lower guide.
Move the assembly to one side as far as the
brake pipes will allow and support it in this
position.
15 Release the clutch hydraulic pipe from
the two support clips beneath the battery box
location.
16 Continue with the removal procedure as
3 to 11.
Refitting
Right-hand drive models
17 Manoeuvre the master cylinder into
position whilst ensuring that the piston rod
and its retaining clip align correctly with the
pedai. Fit two new master cylinder retaining
nuts and tighten them to the specified tonque.
4.5 Extract the retaining d i p (anowed) and
remove the hydraulic hose end fitting from
the fastening sleeve
4.3 Clutch release cylinder retaining botts
(arrowed)
18 On diesel engine models, locate the
bulkhead insulation tack into position.
19 Push the master cylinder piston rod
retaining clip into the clutch pedal, ensunng
that the two lugs on the clip fully engage.
20 Where applicable, refit the clutch switch
to the pedal mounting bracket.
21 Refit the lower facia panel on the driver's
side as described in Chapter 11.
22 Connect the fluid supply hose to the
brake/Clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir and,
where applicable, secure with the retaining
clip,
23 Press the hydraulic pipe back into the
connector on the end of the master cylinder
and refit the retaining clip. Ensure that the
retaining clip engages fully and the pipe is
securely retained. Secure the pipe with the
support clip(s),
24 Bleed the clutch hydraulic system as
described in Section 2, then refit the engine
cover (where applicable).
Left-hand drive models
25 Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 17 to 24.
26 Carefully locate the ABS hydraulic
modulator and mounting bracket back into
position and secure with the two bolts,
tightened to the specified torque.
27 Connect the ABS wiring harness multiplug
connector to the electronic control unit and
secure with the locking bar
28 Retit the battery box and battery described
in Chapter 5A,
4
Release c y l i n d e r -
^
removai sod refitting
^
Note 1: Due to the amount of work necessary
to remove and refit clutch components, it is
usually considered good practice to renew the
clutch friction disc, pressure plate assembly
and release cylinder as a matched set, even
Il only one of these is actually worn enough to
require renewal. It is also worth considering
the renewal of the clutch components on
a preventative basis if the engine and/or
transmission have been removed for some
other reason.
Note 2: Refer to the warning concerning the
1 Unless the complete engine/transmission
unit is to be removed from the car and
separated for major overhaul (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 2), the clutch release cylinder
can be reached by removing the transmission
only, as described in Chapter 7A or 7C.
2 Wipecleantheoutsideofthereleasecylinder
then slacken the union nut and disconnect ttie
hydraulic pipe (see illustration). Wipe up any
spilt fluid with a clean cloth,
3 Unscrew the three retaining bolts and slide
the release cylinder off fram the transmission
input shaft (see Illustration). Remove the
sealing nng which is fitted between the
cylinder and transmission housing and discard
it; a new one must be used on refitting. Whilst
the cylinder is removed, take care not to ailow
any debris to enter the transmission unit,
4 The release cylinder is a sealed unit and
cannot be overhauled. If the cylinder seals are
leaking or the release bearing is noisy or rough
in operation, then the complete unit must be
renewed.
5 To remove the hydraulic pipe, extract the
retaining clip and remove the hydraulic hose
end ftting from the fastening sleeve on top of
the transmission housing (see Illustration).
Gently squeeze the legs of the retaining
clip together and re-insert the clip back into
position in the end fitting.
6 Using a small screwdriver, carefully spread
the retaining lugs of the fastening sleeve to
release the hydraulic pipe connection, and
remove the pipe from inside the transmission
housing. Check the condition of the sealing
ring on the hydraulic pipe and renew if
necessary,
7 If required, the fastening sleeve can be
removed by squeezing the lower retaining
lugs together with pointed-nose pliers, then
withdrawing the Sleeve upwards and out ot the
transmission. Note that if the fastening sleeve
is removed, a new one must be obtained for
refitting.
Refitting
8 Ensure the release cylinder and transmission
mating surfaces are clean and dry and fit tfw
new sealing ring to the transmission recess.
9 Lubricate the release cylinder seal with a
smear of transmission oil then carefully ease
the cylinder along the input shaft and Info
position. Note: Vauxhall/Opel technicians use
a special tapered sleeve on the input shaft
to prevent damage to the seal. If necessary,
wrap suitable tape around the end of the
shaft Ensure ttie sealing ring Is still conectly
seated in its groove tiien refit the release
cylinder retaining bolts and tighten them to
the specified torque.
10 If removed, fit the new fastening sleeve,
engaging ttie lug on ttie sleeve with ttie cut-out
in the housing (see Illustration). Ensure that
the sleeve can be felt to positively lock In
position.
11 Insert ttie hydraulic pipe into the fastening
sleeve until the end fitting can be felt to
positively lock in position.
12 Reconnect the hydraulic pipe to the
release cylinder, tightening its union nut
securely.
13 Refit the hydraulic hose end fitting to ttie
fastening sleeve ensuring that it is positively
retained by its clip.
14 Refit the ttansmission unit as described in
Chapter 7A or 7C.
15 Bleed the clutch hydraulic system as
described in Section 2.
16 On models equipped with a conventional
transmission, bleed the clutch hydraulic
system as described in Section 2.
17 On models equipped with the Easyttonic
transmission, bleed the clutch hydraulic
system and carry out a clutch Contact Point
Determination program using Vauxhall/Opel
TECH2 diagnostic equipment.
5
Clutch p e d a l -
^
removal and refitting
Note 1: The dutch pedal mounting bracket,
ttie clutch peda! and the brake pedal are one
assembly and must be renewed as a complete
unit. In ttie event of a frontal collision, the
clutch pedal is released from its bearing In
the mounting bracket to prevent injury to the
drivers feet and legs (this also applies to the
brake pedal). If an ajrbag has been deployed,
inspect the pedal and mounting bracket
assembly and if necessary renew the complete
unit.
Note 2: New pedal mounting bracket retaining
nuts, vacuum sen/o unit stud bolts and brake
master cylinder retaining nuts will be required
for refitting.
RBtnoval
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the steering column as described
in Chapter 10.
3 Remove the complete facia assembly
and the facia crossmember as described in
Chapter 11.
4 Remove the stop-light switch from the pedal
mounting bracket as described in Chapter 9.
5 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner assembly, the
accelerator pedal/position sensor and, where
fitted, the clutch switch from the pedal
mounting bracket.
4.10 Make sure the lug (anwYBd) on the
fastening sleeve is located correctly in the
transmission housing
6 Working in ihe engine compartment,
unscrew the two nuts securing the brake
master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit.
Now unscrew the two stud bolts securing
the vacuum servo unit to the bulkhead (see
illustration).
7 Separate ttie clutch pedal from ihe clutch
master cylinder piston nxl by releasing the
retaining clip at the pedal. Vauxhall/Opel
technicians use a special tool to do this,
however, the clip may be released by pressing
the retaining tabs together using screwdrivers,
while at the same time pulling the clutch pedal
rearwards. Note; Do not remove the clip from
ihe master cylinder piston nxl, just release it
from the pedal.
B Unhook the return spring from behind
the brake pedal to release all tension In the
spring.
9 Carefully prise open and remove the
retaining clip, and withdraw the clevis pin
securing the brake pedal to the vacuum servo
unit pushrod.
10 From inside the car, slacken and remove
the three nuts securing the pedal mounting
bracket to the bulkhead. Note that two of
fhe three nuts also secure the clutch master
cylinder. On diesel engine models, move the
bulkhead insulation to one side for access to
the nuts, and use a plastic wedge or similar
tool to retain the insulation clear.
11 Wittidraw the mounting bracket and pedal
assembly from the bulkhead, while at the
same time guiding the clutch master cylinder
piston rod and retaining clip out of the clutch
pedal.
5.6 Vacuum servo unit retaining stud boKs
Refitting
12 Manoeuvre the mounting bracket and
pedal assembly into position, whilst ensuring
Hiat ttie clutch master cylinder piston nxl and
its retaining clip align conectly with the clutch
pedal. Also ensure that the vacuum servo unit
pushrod locates around the brake pedal. Fit
three new pedal mounting bracket retaining
nuts and lighten them to ths specified torque,
13 On diesel engine models, locate the
bulkhead insulation back into position.
14 Push the clutch master cylinder piston rod
retaining clip into the clutch pedal, ensuring
that the two lugs on the clip fully engage.
15 Apply a smear ot multipurpose grease to
the clevis pin then align the vacuum servo
unit pushrod with the brake pedal hole and
insert the pin. Secure the pin in position with
the retaining clip, making sure it is correctly
located in the groove.
16 Hook the return spnng into position behind
the brake pedal.
17 Working in the engine compartment, fit the
two nevj stud bolts securing the vacuum servo
unit to the bulkhead and tighten the bolts to
the specified torque. Fit the two new braira
master cylinder retaining nuts and tighten tfie
nuts to the specified torque.
18 Refer to Chapter 1A or 'IB as applicable
and refit the air c\i
id the
accelerator pedal/|
Afbere
fitted, refit the clut
pedal
mounting bracket.
19 Refit the stop-light switch to the pedal
mounting bracket as described in Chapter 9.
20 Refit the facia
—facia
assembly as described in Chapter 11.
21 Refit the steering column as described in
Chapter 10.
22 Reconnect the battery negative terminal
on completion.
6
C i u t c h assembly removal, inspection
and refitting
^
^
A
Warning: Dust created by clutch
wear and deposited
on the
• clutch components may contain
asbestos, which is a health hazard. DO NOT
blow it out with compressed air, or inhale
any of it. DO NOT use petrol or petroleumbased solvents to clean off the dust. Brake
system cleaner or methylated spirit should
be used to flush the dust into a suitable
receptacle. After the clutch
components
are wiped clean with rags, dispose of the
contaminated rags and cleaner in a sealed,
marked container.
Note 1; To prevent possible damage to the
ends of the pressure plate diaphragm spring
fingers, Vauxhall/Opei recommend the use of
a special jig 0g transmission side' or
Qetnebeseite' on the motion oisc must
point towards the transmission
plate boits, but tighten them only finger-tight
SO that the friction disc can still be moved
(see illustration).
28 The friction disc must now be centralised
so that, when the transmission is refitted, Its
input shaft will pass through the splines at the
centre of the friction disc,
29 Centralisation can be achieved by passing a
screwdriver or other tong bar thraugh the ftclran
disc and into the hole in the crankshaft. The
friction disc can then be moved around until it
is centred on the crankshaft hole. Alternatively, a
clutch-aligning tool can be used to eliminate the
guesswork; these can be obtained from most
accessory shops (see Olustration).
30 When the friction disc Is centralised,
tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly and in
a diagonal sequence to the specified torque
setting.
31 Refit the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A or 7C.
7A«1
Chapter? Part A:
Manual transnnission
Contents
Section number
Gearchange mechanism - adjustment
Gearchange mechanism - removal and refitting
General infonnallon
Oil seals - renewal
3
4
1
5
Section number
Reversing light switch - testing, removal and refitting
Transmission - removal and refitting
Transmission oil - level checlt, draining and refilling
Transmission overhaul - general Information
6
7
2
8
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
^
^
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fairly diflfciA,
|
suitable for competent ;J
DIY mechanic
4
DIfficutt, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
«
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
D(Y or professional
Specifications
General
Type;
1.8 litre petrol engine models
2,2 litre pebxil engine models
Diesel engine models
Manufacturer's designation:"
1.8 litre petrol engine models
2.2 litre petrol engine models
1.9 litre diesel engine models
• WR = Wide Ratio (wide i^tio gear set)
SR = Standard Ratio (standard ratio gear set)
CR dose Ratio (close ratio gear set)
Final drive ratios
Fl 7+transmissions
F23 transmissions
F40 transmissions
M32 transmissions:
Petrol engine models
Diesel engine models
;
Five forwarol speeds and reverse. Synchromesh on ali fora/ard speeds
Five or six fonwanJ speeds and reverse. Synchromesh on all foro/ard
speeds
Six forwart speeds and reverse. Synchromesh on all forward speeds
Fl 7+ WR or OR
F23 SR or M32 WR
F40 WR or M32 WR
3.94:1
3.95:1
3.55:1
3.65:1
3.35:1
Lubrication
Lubricant type
Lubricant capacity
Gear ratios
F17+WR transmissions:
1st
2nd
3rd
F17+ OR tranMnissions:
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
Reverse
F23 SR transmissions:
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
Reveree
F40 WR transmissions:
1st
2nd
3rcl
41h
5th
eth
Reverse
M32 WR transmissions:
1st
2nd
3rd
4th.
Torque wrench settings
Differential lower cover plate bolts (F17+ transmissions)
Engine/transmission mountings
Engine-to-transmission bolts
Gearchange lever assembly mounting bolts
Oil drain plug:
F23 transmissions
F40 transmissions
M32 transmissions
Oil filler plug:
F23 transmissions
F40 transmissions
M32 transmissions
Oil level plug:
F17+ h'ansmisslons:
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
F23 transmissions
Oil seal canierto differential (M32 transmissions):
Stage 1
Stage 2
Reversing light switch
Roadwheel bolts
See Lubricants and fluids
See Chaptef 1A or 1B
3,73:1
1.96:1
1.32:1
0.95:1
0.76:1
3.31:1
3.73:1
2.14:1
1.14:1
1.12:1
0.89:1
3.31:1
3.58:1
2.02:1
1.35:1
0.98:1
0.81:1
3.31:1
3.92:1
2.04:1
1.32:1
0.95:1
0.76:1
0.62:1
3.75:1
Petrol engine
3.82:1
2.16:1
1.47:1
1.07:1
0.88:1
0.74:1
3.54:1
Nm
18
See the relevant Part of Chapter
See the relevant Part of Chapter
10
35
50
20
35
50
30
4
Angle-tighten a further 45°
Angle-tighten a further 135°
35
20
Angle-tighten a further 45"
20
110
Diesel engine
3.82:1
2.05:1
1.30:1
0.96:1
0.74:1
0.61:1
3.54:1
Ibfft
General i n f o n n a t i o n
The ti
M IS contained in a castaluminium allov c ising bolted to the engines
left-hand end. and consists of the gearbox
and final drive differential - often called a
transaxle.
Drive IS transmtttea trom tne crankshaft
via the clutch to the input shaft, which has a
spllned extension to accept the clutch friction
disc, and rotates in sealed ball-bearings. From
the input shaft, drive is transmitted to the
output shaft, which rotates in a n>ller bearing
at its right-hand end, and a sealed ball-bearing
at its left-hand end. From the output shaft,
the drive is transmitted to the differential
chDwnwheel, which rotates with the differential
case and planetary gears, thus driving the
sun gears and driveshafts. The rotation of the
planetary gears on their shaft allows the inner
roadwheel to rotate at a slower speed than the
outer roadwheel when the car is comf^ing.
The input and output shafts are arranged
side-by-side, parallel to the crankshaft and
driveshafts, so that their gear pinion teeth are
in constant mesh. In the neutral position, the
output shaft gear pinlcHis nDtate freely, so that
drive cannot be transmitted to the oownwheel.
Gear selection is via a floor-mounted
lever and cable-operated selector linkage
mechanism. The selector linkage causes
the appropriate selector fork to move its
respective synchro-sleeve along the shaft,
to lock the gear pinion to the synchro-hub.
Since the synchro-hubs are spllned to the
output shaft, this locks the pinion to the shaft,
so that drive can be transmitted. To ensure
that gearchanging can be made quickly and
quietly, a synchromesh system is fitted to all
foro/anJ gears, consisting of baulk rings and
spring-loaded fingers, as well as the gear
pinions and synchro-hubs. The synchromesh
cones are formed on the mating faces of the
baulk rings and gear pinions.
2
:- •
T r a n s m i s s i o n oil level check, draining
and refilling
^
^
,
1 The oil level must be checked before the
oar is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the
engine has been switched oft. If the oii is
checked immediately after driving the car,
some of the oil will remain distributed around
the transmission components, resulting in an
inaccurate level reading,
2 Draining the oil is much more efficient if
the car is first taken on a journey of sufficient
length to warm the engine/transmission up to
normal operating temperature.
Caution: If tlte procedure is to be carried
out on a hot transmission unit, take care
not to bum yourself on ttie hot exhaust or
Oie ti^nsmis^n/engine
unit.
3 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,
on vehicle ramps, or jack it up and support
tt securely on axle stands Isee Jacking and
vehicle support), but make sure that it is level.
To drain the oil on diesel engine models, undo
the retaining bolts and screws and remove the
undertray from beneath fhe engine.
F t 7+
transmissiofTS
Level c h e c k
4 W/ipe clean the area around the level plug.
The level plug is located behind the driveshaft
Inner joint on the left-hand side of the
transmission (see illusb^tion). Unscrew the
plug and clean it.
5 The oil level should reach the lower edge of
the level plug aperture.
6 The transmission is t o p p e d - u p via
the reversing light switch aperture (see
illustration). Wipe clean the area around
the reversing light switch, and remove the
switch as described in Section 6. Refill the
transmission with the specified grade of oil
given in Lubricants and fluids until It reaches
the bottom of the level plug aperture. Allow
any excess oil to drain, then refit and tighten
the level plug to the specified tonque.
7 Refit the reversing light switch with reference
to Sectton 6.
Draining
Note: A new differential lower cover plate
gasket will be required for this operation.
8 Since the transmission oil is not renewed
as part of the manufacturer's maintenance
schedule, no drain plug is fitted to the
2.10 Undo the bolts (amawed) and rwnove
plate-F17h
2.6 Using a funnel to hll the transmission
vta the reversing light switch aperture Ft 7+ transmissions
transmission, if for any reason the transmission
needs to be drained, the only way of doing so
is to remove the differential lower cover plate.
9 Wipe clean the area around fhe differential
cover plate and position a suitable container
underneatti the cover,
10 Evenly and progressively slacken and
remove the retaining twits then withdraw the
cover plate and allow the transmission oil to
drain into the container (see illustration).
Remove the gasket and disoarol it; a new one
should be used on refitting.
11 Allow the oil to drain completely into the
container. If the oil is hot, take precautions
against scalding. Remove all traces of dirt and
oil from the cover and transmission mating
and wipe clean the inside of the
12 Once fhe oil has finished draining, ensure
the mating surfaces are clean and dry then
refit the cover plate to the transmission unit,
complete with a new gasket. Refit the retaining
bolts and evenly and progressively tighten
ttiem to the specified torque.
Refilling
13 Refer to paragraphs 4 to 7.
F23
transmissions
Level c l i e c k
14 Wipe clean the area around the level plug
located on the rear of the differential housing
(see illush^tion). Unscrew the plug and clean
15 The oil level should reach the lower eúqe
oil level plug (arrowed)
- F 2 3 transmissions
housing (F40 transmissions), or on the lower
left-hand side of the differential housing
(M32 transmissions), and position a suitable
container under the plug (sea illustration).
24 Undo the drain plug and allow the oil to
drain,
25 Once the oil has finished draining, fit the
new drain plug and tighten the plug to the
specified tonque.
Refilling
26 The transmission is refilled via the oil filler
plug on the top of the casing (see illustration).
To gain access to the plug, remove the battery
and battery box as described in Chapter 5A.
27 Wipe clean the area around the plug and
unscrew it. Refill the transmission with exact/)'
2,2 litres of the specified grade of oil given in
Lubncants and fluids, then refit and tighten
the oil flier plug to the specified torque (see
Illustration),
28 Refit the engine undertray, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
29 Refit the battery bos and battery as
descnbed in Chapter 5A,
3
necessary, wipe clean the area around the tiller
plug on the top of the casing and unscrew Ihe
plug (see illustration).
16 Add the specified grade of oil given in
Lubricants and fluids through the filler plug
aperture, until it reaches the bottom of the
level plug aperture. Allow any excess oil to
drain, then refit and tighten the level plug to
the specitied tonque.
17 Refit the oil fillet plug and tighten it to the
specified torque, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Draining
18 Wipe clean the area anaund the drain plug,
located below the left-hand dnveshaft. and
position a suitable container under the plug.
1fl Undo the dram plug and allow the oil to
drain.
20 Once the oil has finished draining, refit
the drain plug with a new sealing washer
3.1 Unclip and ramove the gearchange
lever gaiter retaining frame from the centre
console
2.27 Use a graduated container to fill the
transmission with the specified quantity of
oil - F40 and M32 transmissions
where applicable, and tighten the plug to Ihe
specified tonque.
Refilling
21 Refer to paragraphs 14 to 17,
F40 and M32
transmissions
Note: A new transmission oit drain plug will be
required.
Level c h e c k
22 On the F40 and M32 transmissions, there
is no provision for oil level checking once the
transmission has been Initially filled. If for any
reason it is thought that the oil level may be
low. the transmission oil must be completely
drained, then refilled with an exact specified
quantity of oil as described below.
Draining
23 Wipe clean the area around the dram
plug, located at the base of the differential
3.2 Remove the ashtray by d
internal tabs each side and lifting out
Geandiange mechanisin adiustment
^
F17+,F40and
M32
transmissions
Note: A 5 mm drill bit or dowel rod will be
required to carry out ttiis procedum.
1 Fnsm inside the car, unclip the gearchange
lever gaiter retaining frame from the centre
console and lift it off the gearchange lever
(see Illustration).
2 Remove the ashtray from the centre console
by opening the lid. depressing the intemal tabs
each side and lifting out (see illustration).
3 Release the retaining lugs around the
sides and rear of the gearchange lever gaiter.
Disengage the locating pegs at the front and
fold the gaifer up over the gearchange lever
knob (see Illustrations).
4 Usmg a small screwdriver, open the
clamping piece on the end of each selector
cable as far as the notch. Opening them any
further may damage the clamping pieces (see
Illustrations).
lugs around
of the gearchange lever
gaiter...
3.3b . . . then disengage the pegs
(arrowed) and fold the gaiter up the lever
3.4a Using a small screwdriver, open Ihe
clamping piece on the end of each selector
cable...
3.5 Pull up the reverse gear detent ring on the gearchange lever
to expose the two tabs (arrowed) on the locking block
5 Pull up the reverse gear detent ring on the
gearchange lever to expose the two tabs on
the locking block. Depress the two tabs until
the locking block releases and moves down
the le
6 Move the gearchange lever to the left and
engage the lug at the base of the locking block
with the slot on the side 6f the gearchange
lever base (see Illustration). The lever is now
locked in the adjustment position.
7 In the engme compartment, set the
gearchange selector on the transmission to
the 'neutral' position. Press the selector down
(F17+ transmissions} or pull it up (F40 and
M32 transmissions) and lock it in the adjustment position by inserting a 5 mm drill bit or
dowel rod through the hole in the side of the
housing (see illustration). Ensure that the drill
tHt or dowel rod fully engages with the selector.
8 Working back inside the car, lock both
gearshift cable clamping pieces by pushing
them down.
8 Remove the drill bit or dowel rod used
to lock the gearchange selector on the
transmission.
10 Lift the locking block on the gearchange
lever out of the slot on the lever base, and
slide it fully up the lever until it looks back in
its original position.
3.6 Engage the lug (arrowed) at the base of the locking block wWi
the slot on the side of the gearchange lever base
11 Refit the gearchange lever gaiter and
retaining frame to the centre console, then
refit the ashtray Check the gear selector
mechanism for correct operation.
F23
transmissions
12 Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 1 to 4 above.
13 in the engine compartmOTt, set the gearchange selector on the transmission to the
'neutral' position.
1
.
14 Working back inside the car, position the
gearchange lever in the 'neutral' position, and
lock it there by pushing in the clamp (see
illustration)
15 Lock both gearshift cable clamping pieces
by pushing them down.
16 Pull out the clamp locking the gean^ange
lever, then refit the lever gaiter and retaining
frame to the centre console. Refit the ashtray
and check the gear selector mechanism for
correct operation.
*
3.7 Using a 5 mm drill bit [arrowed) lo lock
the selector mechanism in the adjustment
position - F40 transmission shown
3.14 Lock the gearchange lever in 'neutral'
by pushing in the clamp with a screwdriver
- F23 transmissions
%1
4.7a Gearchange lever assembry front
s (arrowed)...
4
Geardiange mechanism removal and refitting
Gearchange
^
lever
Removal
1 Remove the centre console as described in
Chapter 11.
2 Extract the retaining clip and remove the
roar passenger air duct (see illustrations).
3 Undo the retaining bolt each side and
release the diagnostic socie which bears only on the harcl outer edge
of the seal.
16 Fit a new O-rlng to the oil seal carrier,
then refit the can-ier to the differential housing,
tightening the retaining bolts to the specified
torque.
17 Refit the driveshaft as described in
Chapter 8,
18 Refill the transmission with the specified
type and amount of oil, as described in
Section 2.
Input
shaft
oil
seal
19 The input shaft oil seal is an integral part of
the clutch release cylinder; If the seal is leaking
the complete release cylinder assembly must
be renewed. Before condemning the release
cylinder, check that the leak Is not coming
from the sealing ring which is fitted between
the cylinda- and the transmission housing; the
sealing ring can be renewed once the release
cylinder assembly has been removed. Refer to
Chapter 6 for removal and refitting details.
test circuit to check that there is continuity
between the switch terminals only when
reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case,
and there are no obvious breaks or other
damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and
must be renewed.
Removal
4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unscrew the switch and remove it from the
transmission casing along with its sealing
washer (see Illustration).
Refitting
5 Fit a new sealing washer to the switch,
then screw it back into position in the top
of the transmission housing and tighten it to
the specified torque. Reconnect the wiring
connector, then test the operation of the
circuit.
F23
transmissions
6 The reversing light circuit is controlled
by a plunger-type switch screwed into the
rear of the transmission above the left-hand
driveshaft,
7 To gain access to the switch, finnly apply
the handbrake, then jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support).
Testing
8 Proceed as descrlt>ed in paragraphs 2 and
3 above.
Removal
6
Reversing fight s w i t c h testing, removal and refitting
9 Disconnect the winng connector, then
F t 7+ transm/ss/ons
1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by
a plunger-type switch screwed into the top
of the transmission towards the tront of the
housing.
Testing
2 If a fault develops in the circuit, first ensure
that the cin;uit fuse has not blown and that the
reversing light bulbs are sound.
3 To test the switch, disconnect tne wiring
connector. Use a multimeter (set to the
resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb
6.4 Unscrew and remove the reversing
light switch together with its sealing
washer - Fl 7+ transmissions
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Allow sufficient working raom to remove the
transmission from under the left-hand side ot
the engine compartment. Remove both frant
roadwheels then, on diesel engine models,
undo the retaining bolts and screws bolts
and remove the undertray fram beneath the
engine. Also remove the engine top cover
where fitted,
6.9 The reversing light switch (arrowed) is
positioned above the left-hand driveshaft F23 transmissions
n the switch and remove it from the
transmission casing along with its sealing
Refitting
10 Fit a new sealing washer to the switch,
then screw it back into position in the rear
of the transmission housing and tighten it to
the specified torque. Reconnect the wiring
connector, ttien test the operatkxi of the circuit.
11 On completion, lower the vehicle to the
ground.
F40
transmissions
12 The reversing light circuit is contnalled by a
plunger-type switch screwed into the selector
lever housing on top of the transmission.
Testing
13 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2
and 3 above.
Removal
14 Disconnect the wiring connector, then
unscrew the switch and remove it Irom the
selector lever housing along with its sealing
washer (see illustration).
6.14 The reversing light switch (arrowed)
is screwed into the transmission selector
lever housing - F40 transmissions
a plunger-type switch screwed into the frant
of the transmission casing.
17 To gain access to the switch, firmly apply
the handbrake, then jack up the frant of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Undo the
retaining bolts and screws and remove the
undertray fram beneath the engine.
Testing
18 Praceed as described in paragraphs 2
and 3 above.
Removal
19 Disconnect the winng connector, then
unscrew the switch and remove it from the
transmission casing along with its sealing
washer
Refitting
20 Fit a new sealing washer to the switch, then
screw it back into position in the transmission
casing and tighten it to the specified torque.
Reconnect the wiring connector, then test the
operation of the circuit,
21 On completion, refit the engine undertray
and lower the vehicle to the ground.
Refitting
15 Fit a new sealing washer to the switch,
then screw it back into position in the selector
lever housing and tighten it lo the specified
tonque. Reconnect the wiring connector, then
test the operation of the circuit.
M32
transmissions
16 The reversing light circuit is controlled by
7.7a Itelng a small screwdriver, prise out
the retaining d i p . . .
removal and refitting
Removai
1 Apply the handbrake, then )ack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
7.7b . . . and disconnect the clutch
hydraulic hose from the end fitting on the
2 Remove the battery, battery box, and the
starter motor as descritied in Chapter 5A.
3 Remove the air cleaner housing and intake
ducts as descnbed in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4.
4 Remove the front bumper as descritjed in
Chapter 11,
5 Drain the transmission oil as described In
Section 2,
6 Remove tho filler cap fram the brake/clutch
fluid reservoir on the bulkhead, then tighten It
onto a piece of polythene. This will reduce the
loss of fluid when the clutch hydraulic hose is
disconnected. Alternatively, fit a hose clamp
to the flexible hose next to the clutch hydraulic
connection on the transmission housing.
7 Place some cloth rags beneath the hose,
then prise out the retaining clip securing the
clutch hydraulic hose to the end frtting on top
of the transmission bellhousing. Detach the
hose from Ihe end fitting (see illustrations).
Gently squeeze the two legs of the retaining
clip together and re-insert the retaining clip
back into position in the end fitting. Discard
the sealing ring from the hose end; a new
sealing ring must be used on refitting. Plug/
cover both the end tiding and hose end to
minimise fluid loss and prevent fhe entry of
dirt into the hydraulic system. Note: IVMst
the hose is disconnected, do not depress the
clutch pedal.
8 Note the fitted locations of the gearchange
selector cables at their transmission
attachments. Using a suitable forked tool,
release the inner cable end fittings from the
transmission selector levers. Pull back the
retaining sleeves and release the outer cables
from tbe mounting bracket on the transmission
(see illustrations 4.18 and 4.19). Undo the
retaining bolts and remove the cable mounting
bracket(s) fram the transmission,
9 Disconnect the wiring connector fram the
reversing light switch and free the wiring from
the transmission unit and retaining brackets,
10 On diesel engine models with the M32 transmission, remove the EGR valve heat exchanger
as descnbed in Chapter 4C,
11 Working as described in Chapter 8,
disconnect the inner ends of both driveshafts
from the differential and intermediate shaft
then remove the intermediate shaft. There is
no need to disconnect the driveshafts from
the swivel hub. Support the driveshafts by
suspending them with wire or string - do
not allow the driveshafts to hang down
under their own weight, or the ioints may be
damaged,
12 Unscrew and remove the upper bolts
securing the transmission to the rear of tbe
engine. Where necessary, pull up the coolant
hoses and secure them away from the
transmission using plastic cable ties.
13 Remove the front subframe assembly
as described in Chapter 10, ensuring that
the engine unit Is securely supported by
connecting a hoist to the engine assembly.
If available, the type of support bar which
locates in the engine compartment side
channels is to be preferred.
14 Unbolt and remove the front and rear
engine/transmission mounting torque link
brackets with reference to the relevant Part of
Chapter 2.
15 Place ajack with a block of wood beneath
the transmission, and raise the jack to take
the weight of the transmission.
16 Unbolt and remove the left-hand engine/
transmission mounting bracket from the
transmission with reference to the relevant
Part of Chapter 2.
17 Lower the engine and transmission by
approximately 5 cm making sure that the
coolant hoses and wiring harnesses are not
sh-etched.
18 Slacken and remove the remaining boits
securing the transmission to the engine and
sump flange. Note the correct fitted positions
of each bolt and the relevant brackets as they
are removed to use as a reference on refitting.
Make a final check that all components have
been disconnected, and are positioned clear
of the transmission so that they will not hinder
the removal procedure.
19 With the bolts removed, move the tnalley
jack and transmission, to free it from its
locating dowels. Once the transmission Is
free, lower the jack and manoeuvre the unit
out from under the car. Remove the locating
dowels from the transmission or engine if they
are loose, and keep them in a safe place.
Refitting
20 The transmission is refitted by a reversal
of the removal prcicedure, tearing in mind the
following points.
a) Ensure the locating dowels are correctly
positioned prior to installation.
b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque (where given).
c) Renew the driveshaft oil seals (see
Section 5) before refitting the driveshafts/
intermediate shaft.
d) Refit the front subframe assembly as
described in Chapter 10.
e) Fit a new sealing ring to the clutch hydraulic
hose before clipping the hose into die end
mting. Ensure the hose is securely retained
by its dip then bleed the hydraulic system
as described in Chapter 6.
f) On rvl32 transmissions, rem the EGR valve
heat exdiangeras described in Chapter 4C.
g) Refill the transmission with the specified
type and quantity of oil, as described in
Section 2.
h) On completion, adjust the gearchange
mechanism as described in Section 3.
8
Trafismission o v e r h a u l general tnfonnatton
^
il transmission unit
is a difficult and involved job for the DIY
home mechanic. In addition to dismantling
and reassembling many small parts,
clearances must be precisely measured
and, if necessary, changed by selecting
shims and spacers. Internal transmission
components are also often difficult to obtan,
and in many instances, extremely expensive.
Because of this, if the transmission develops
a fault or becomes noisy, the best course of
action Is to have the unit overhauled by a
specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange
reconditioned unit,
2 Nevertheless, it Is not impossible for the
more experienced mechanic to overhaul the
transmission, provided the special tools are
available, and the job is done in a deliberate
Etep-by-slep manner, so that nothing is
overlooked.
3 The tcols necessary for an overhaul include
internal and external circlip pliers, bearing
pullers, a slide hammer, a set of pin punches,
a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic
press. In addition, a large, stunjy workbench
and a vice will be required.
4 During dismantling of the ti
make careful notes of how each component
is fitted, to make reassembly easier and more
accurate.
5 Before dismantling the transmission, it
will help if you have some idea what area
is malfunctioning. Certain problems can
be closely related to specific areas in the
transmission, which can make component
examination and renewal easier. Refer to the
Fault ending Section of this manual for more
infonnation.
Chapter? Part B:
Automatic transmission
Contents
Section number
Section n u m b e r
12 Selector cable - adjustment
3
2 Selector cable - removal and refitting
4
13 Selector lever
- removal and refitting
5
1 Selector lever assembly components - removal and refitting
6
Selector lever position switch - removal and refitting
9
Transmission input/output speed sensors - removal and refitting... 10
Automatic transmission - removal and refitting
Automatic transmission fluid - draining and refilling
Automatic transmission overtiaul - generalinformation
Electronic control unit - removal and refitting
Fluid cooler - general Information
General information
Oil seals - renewal
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
^
^
^
Fairiy easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
^
Fairty dfflicult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
^
^
Dffficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
^
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
^
^
Specifications
General
Type:
Petrol engine models
Diesel engine models
Manufacturer's designation:
Petrol engine models
Diesel engine models
Lubrication
Electronically
reverse, with sequential manual gear selection capability
Electronically-controlled adaptive automatic, six forward speeds and
reverse, with sequential manual gear selection capability
AF23
AF40
Lubricant type
Lubricant capacity
S%e Lubricants and fluids
See Chapter 1A or I B
Torque wrench settings
Nm
ibfft
20
40
30
15
30
22
50
40
8
25
See the relevant Part of Chapter 2
See the relevant Part of Chapter 2
7
6
6
110
8
37
30
6
18
15
7
25
11
5
IB
60
44
Automatic transmission fluid drain/filler plugs:
AF23 transmissions:
Filler plug
AF40 transmissions:
Drain plug
Rllerplug
Level checking plug
Electronic control unit mounting bolts (AF40 transmissions). Engine/transmission mountings
Engine-to-transmission bolts
Fluid cooler pipes to transmission
Input shaft speed sensor bolt
Output shaft speed sensor bolt
Roadwheel bolts
Selector lever assembly mounting bolts
Selector lever position switch:
Lever-to-selector shaft
Selector shaft main nut
Switch retaining bolts
Torque converter-to-driveplate bolts;*
5
4
4
81
6
Generai i n f o r m a t i o n
A Wvi) nr six-speed, eiectronicallycontrolied automatic transmission was
optionally availatile on certain models covered
by this manual. The transmission consists
of a toniue converter, an epicycllc geartrain.
and hydraulically-operated clutches and
brakes. The unit Is controlled by the electronic
control unit (ECU) via electrically-operated
solenoid valves. In addition to the fullyautomatic operation, fhe transmission can
also be operated manually with five-Speed or
six-speed sequential gear selection.
The torque converter provides a fluid
coupling between engine and transmission,
which acts as an automatic clutch, and also
provides a degree of torque multiplication
when accelerating. The torque converter
Incorporates a lock-up function whereby
the engine and transmission can be directly
coupled by means of a clutch unit inside the
torque converter. The lock-up function Is
controlled by the ECU according to operating
conditions.
four-position selector lever The drive D
position, allows automatic changing
throughout the range of fonffard gear ratios.
An automatic kickdown facility shifts the
transmission down a gear If the accelerator
pedal is fully depressed. If the selector lever is
moved to the left from the D position, the
transmission enters manual mode. In manual
mode the gear selector lever can be used to
shift the transmission up or down each gear
sequentially
The epicyclic geartrain provides five or six
forwand and one reverse gear ratio, according
to which of Its component parts are held
stationary or allowed to tum. The components
of the geartrain are held or released by
hydraulically actuated brakes and clutches.
A fluid pump wittiin the transmission provides
the necessary hydraulic pressure to operate
the brakes and clutches.
Due to the complexify of the automatic
transmission, any repair or overhaul work
must be left to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer or
transmission specialist with the necessary
special equipment for fault diagnosis and
repair. The contents of the following Sections
are therefore confined to supplying general
iniormatlon, and any service information and
instructions that can be used by the owner.
In automatic mode, the transmission is
fully-adaptive, whereby the shift points are
dependent on driver Input, roadspeed, engine
speed and vehicle operating conditions.
The ECU receives inputs from various
engine and drivetrain related sensors, and
determines the appropriate shift point for
each gear. Additionally, the transmission can
be placed into winter mode using the button
on the selector lever indicator panel. The
transmission will select fourth gear as the
vehicle pulls away from a standing start; this
helps to maintain traction on very slippery
surfaces.
Driver contnal of the transmission is by a
2
AF23
Automatic transmission fluid
- draining and refilling
^-
trans
Draining
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then Jack up
the front of the car and support it securely
on axle stands (see Jacking and vetiicle
support).
2 Position a container under the drain plug at
the rear right-hand side of the transmission,
below the driveshaft. Unscrew the plug and
remove it along with its sealing washer (see
illustration).
3 Allow the fluid to drain completely into the
container.
4 When the fluid has finished draining, clean
the drain plug threads and those of the
transmission casing, fit a new sealing washer
and refit the drain plug, tightening it to the
specified tonque. Refit the engine undertray
(where appiicaoie) and lower the vehicle to the
ground.
Refilling
5 Where applicable, lift off the plastic cover
over the top of the engine.
6 Using a suitable forked tool, release the
selector cable end fitting from the selector
lever position switch on the top of the
transmission (see illustration).
7 Move the selector cable to one side and
wipe clean the area around the transmission
fluid filler plug, located just to the rear of the
selector lever position switch. Unscrew and
remove the filler plug along with its sealing
washer.
1 Dipstick retaining bolt
2 Dipstick
3 Transmission fluid filler plug
4 Selector cable end fitting
5 Setector/everpos/tionsw/tcfJ
6 HOT mark grooves on dipstick
8 Refill the transmission using approximately
3.0 litres of the specified type of fiuld, via
the filler plug aperture. Use a funnel with
a fine mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and
to ensure that no foreign matter enters the
transmission.
d Refit and securely tighten the filler plug, then
reconnect the selector cable to the selector
lever position switch.
10 Start the engine, and allow it to idle for
a few minutes whilst moving the seiector
lever through its various positions. Take the
car on a moderate run to fully distribute the
new fluid around the transmission, and to
bring the transmission up to normal operating
temperature (70° tc 80'C). On returning, pari<
the car on level ground and leave the engine
idling.
t l Slowly move the selector lever from
position P to position D and bacl< to position R
12 Unscrew the retaining bolt and withdraw
the transmission fluid dipstick, located at the
front left-hand side of the transmission. Where
necessary, unclip the transmission wiring
harness and move it to one side for improved
access to the dipstick,
13 Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth and
Insert it fully into the transmission. Withdraw
the dipslick and check the fluid level which
must bo between the grooves of the HOT
mark. Note that 0,3 litres of fluid is required
to raise the level from the COLD mark to the
HOT mark on the dipstick,
14 If topping-up is necessary, stop the
engine, and remove the fluid filler plug as
described previously. Add additional fluid,
as required, then refit the filler plug, using
a new sealing washer Tighten the filler plug
to the specified torque, then reconnect the
selector cable to the selector lever position
switch,
15 Refit the dipstick and secure with the
retaining bolt, tightened to the specified
torque. If distuibed, clip the transmission
winng harness back into position,
16 Where applicable, refit the plastic cover
over the top of the engine.
AF40 transmissions
Draining
17 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,
on vehicle ramps, or Jack it up and support
it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle suppon), but make sure that it is
level. Undo the retaining bolts and screws
and remove the undertray from beneath the
engine,
18 Position a container under the combined
drain plug/level checking plug at the base of
the transmission. Note that the drain plug and
level checking plug are incorporated -nto one
unit - the drain plug is the larger of the two
plugs, with the level checking plug screwed
into the centre ol it (see Illustration),
19 Unscrew the level checking plug and
remove it, along with its sealing washer, from
the centre of the drain plug. Now unscrew the
drain plug and remove it, along with its sealing
washer, from the transmission. Allow the fluid
to drain completely into the container
20 When the fluid has finished draining,
clean the drain plug threads and those of the
transmission casing, fit a new sealing washer
and refit the dram plug, tightening it to the
specified torque.
Refilling
21 Wipe clean the area around the transmission fluid filler plug, located on the top
of the transmission housing, adjacent to the
selector cable (see Illustration). Unscrew and
remove the filler plug along with its sealing
washer
22 Slowly refill the transmission with the
specified type of fluid, via the filler plug
aperture until fluid just starts to drip out of
the level checking plug aperture. Use a funnel
el checking plug (1) and drain plug (2) AF40 transmissions
with a fine mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and
to ensure that no foreign matter enters the
transmission.
23 Refit the level checking plug and tighten it
securely
24 Add a further 0,5 litre of fluid via the filler
plug aperture.
25 Start the engine and allow it to idle. With
the footbrake firmly applied, slowly move the
selector lever from position P to position D
and back lo position R stopping at each
position tor at least two seconds. Repeat this
procedure twice,
26 With the engine still idling, unscrew the
fluid level checking plug once nwre. Allow the
excess fluid to run from the level checking plug
aperture until it is only dripping out Refit the
level checking plug with a new sealing washer,
and tighten the plug to the specified tonque.
27 If no fluid runs from the level checking
plug aperture, switch the engine off and repeat
paragraphs 24 to 26,
28 Once the fluid level is con-ect, refit the filler
plug with a new sealing washer, and tighten
the plug to the specified tonque.
29 On completion, refit the engine undertray
and lower the vehicle to the ground,
3
Selector c a b l e -
^
adjustment
^
Note: If the batteiy
mechanic
^
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
General
Driveshaft type
Lubrication {overhaul only - see text)
Lubricant type/specification
Torque w r e n c h settings
Anti-roll bar connecting link retaining nut*
Driveshaft retaining nut:"
Stagel
Stage 2
Stages
Intermediate shaft bearing housing to support bracket
Lower arm balljoint clamp bolt nut:"
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Roadwheels
Track rad end to swivel hub'
* Use new nuts/bolts.
Solid steel shafts with inner and outer constarrt velocity (CV) joints.
Right-hand driveshaft Incorporating intermediate shaft (except on
1.8 litre petrol engine models)
Use only special grease supplied in sachets with gaiter kits - joints ai
DlhenAiise pre-packed with grease and sealed
Nm
65
ibf ft
48
150
Slacken the nut by 45°
250
18
111
30
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
110
35
22
185
13
81
26
and a new track rod end retaining nut will be
needed for refitting. The driveshaft outer joint
splines may be a tight fit in the hub and it is
possible that a puller/extractor will be required
to draw the hub assembly off the driveshaft
during removal.
2.3 Where fitted, tap off the driveshaft
retainmg nut dust cap
A tool to hold the wheel hub stationary
whilst the driveshaft retaining nut is
slackened can be fabricated from two
lengths of steel strip (one long, one
short} and a nut and bolt; the nut and
boll forming the phiot of a forig
Rear brake pads renewal
Stop-iight switch - removal, refitting and adjustment
Vacuum pump (diesel engine models) - removal and
refitting
Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and
refitting
Vacuum sen/o unit check valve and hose - removal, testing and
refrtting
16
3
2
9
8
5
15
19
11
12
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
%
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
Fairty difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
%
«
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
«
^
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
Front brakes
Type
Disc diameter
Disc thickness:
New
Minimum
Maximum disc run-out
Brake pad thickness:
New (Including tacking plate}
Minimum thickness (including backing plate)
Brake caliper piston diameter
Rear Brakes
Type
Disc diameter
Disc thickness:
New
Minimum
Maximum disc mn-out
Brake pad thickness:
New (including backing plate)
Minimum thickness (including backing plate)
Brake caliper piston diameter
Ventilated disc, with single-piston sliding caliper
285.0 mm
25.0 mm
22,0 mm
0.12 mm
20,0 mm
9.0 mm
57.0 mm
Solid disc, with single-piston sliding caliper
278,0 mm
12,0 mm
10,0 mm
0.03 mm
17.0 mm
8.0 mm
38.0 mm
Handbrake
Type
ABS system type
standard ABS system
ABS writh traction conlnol
ABS with electranlc stability program
Cable-operated, acting on rear brake calipers, Seff-adjusting
EBC 430 EV
EBC 430 EV/TC
EBC 430 EV/ESP
l^k
^
Nm
20
10
6
30
Torque wrench settings
ABS hydraulic modulator mounting bracket boits
ABS hydraulic modulator to mounting bracket
Brake caliper bleed screws
Brake caliper guide bolts
Brake caliper mounting bracket bolts:'
Fnant caliper mounting bracket bolts
Rear caliper mounting bracket bolts
Brake fluid pipe unions
Brake hydraulic hose banjo union bolts
Brake pedal mounting bracket nuts'
Handbrake lever retaining nuts
Master cylinder retaining nuts*
Roadwheel bolts
Vacuum pump mounting bolts (diesel engines)
\Mcuum servo unit stud bolts'
!t
QèftèrarfiiiemiatiQ»
The braking system is of servo-assisted,
dual-circuit hydraulic type split diagonally. The
an-angement of the hydraulic system is such
that each circuit operates one frcmt and one
rear brake from a tandem master cylinder.
Under normal circumstances, both circuits
operate in unison. However, In the event of
hydraulic failure in one circuit, full braking
force will still be available at two wheels.
All models are fitted with front and rear
disc brakes. The disc brakes are actuated
by single-piston sliding type calipers, which
ensure that equal pressure is applied to each
disc pad.
An Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) is fitted
asstandarei equipment to all vehicles covered in
this manual. On higher specification models, the
ABS may also Incorporate traction control or an
electnDnlc stability program. Refer to SectkDn 17
for further infomiation on ABS operation.
The self-adjusting, cable-operated
handbrake provides an independent
mechanical means of rear brake application.
On diesel engine models, since there Is no
thnattllng as such of the inlet manifold, the
manifold is not a suitable source of vacuum
to operate the vacuum servo unit. The sen/o
unit is therefore connected to a separate
vacuum pump bolted to the left-hand end of
the cylindw head and driven by the camshaft.
Warning: When servicing
any
part of the system, worlr carefully
and methodically; also observe
scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling
any part of the hydraulic sysfem. Always
renew components (in axle sets, where
applicable) if in doubt about their condition,
and use only genuine Vauxhall/Opel parts,
or at least those of Itnown good quality.
Note the warnings given in 'Safety first!'
and at relevant points in this Chapter
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust
and hydraulic fluid.
A
230
130
16
40
20
10
50
110
20
20
5 Park the vehicle over an Inspection pit or on
car ramps. Alternatively, apply the handbrake
then jack up the front and rear of the vehicle
and support It on axle Stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support). For improved access with the
Warning:
Hydraulic
fluid
is vehicle jacked up, remove the roadwheels.
6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
poisonous; wash off immediately
unions tight and bleed screws closed, Clean
and thoroughly in the case of
any dirt from around the bleed screws.
sidn contact, and seeh immediate medical
7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap,
advice if any fluid is swallowed or gets into
the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are and top the master cylinder reservoir up to
inflammable, and may ignite when allowed
the MAX level line; refit the cap loosely, and
into contact with hot components; when
remember to maintain the fluid level at least
sen/icing any hydraulic system. It is safest
above the MIN level line throughout the
to assume that the fluid is inflammable, and
procedure, otherwise there is a risk of further
to take precautions against the risk of fire air entering the system.
as though it is petrol that is being handled. 8 Thereareanumberofone-man,do-it-yourself
Hydraulic fluid is also an effecthre paint
brake bleeding kits cun-ently available from
stripper, and will attack plastics; If any is SpiH,
motor accessoiy shops. It is recommended that
it should be washed off immediately, using
one of these kits is used whenever possible,
copious quantities of fresh water. Finally, it
as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation,
is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the
and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid
air) - old fluid may be contaminated and unfit
tor further use. When topping-up or renewing being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is
the fluid, always use the recommended type, not available, the basic (two-man] method must
be used, which is described in detail below.
and ensure that it comes from a freshlyCaution: Vauxhall recommend using a
opened sealed container.
pressure bleeding kit for this operation
(see paragraphs 24 to 27).
General
9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle
1 The correct operation of any hydraulic as described previously, and iollow the kit
system is only possible after removing all
manufacturer's instructions, as the procedure
air from the components and circuit; this Is may vary slightly according to the type being
achieved by bleeding ihe system.
used, generally, they are as outlined below in
2 During the bleeding procedure, add the relevant sub-section,
only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the 10 Whichever method is used, the same
recommended type; never re-use fluid that has sequence should be followed (paragraphs 11
already been bled from tiie system. Ensure that and 12) to ensure the removal of all air from
suffteient fluid is available before starting wor1<.
the system.
3 If there is any possibility of incorrect
sequence
fluid being already in the system, the brake Bleeding
components and circuit must be flushed 11 If the system has been only partially
completely with uncontamlnated, conect fluid, disconnected, and suitable precautions were
and new seals should be fitted to the various taken to minimise fluid loss, it should only be
components,
necessary to bleed that part of the system
4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the (ie, the primary or secondary cirouit). If the
system, or air has entered because of a master cylinder cr mam brake lines have been
leak, ensure that the fault is cured before disconnected, then the complete system must
proceeding further.
be bled.
2
Hydraulic s y s t e m -
A
12 The manufaclurer does not give any
sequence for bleeding the brake circuit,
however, we recommend the following for
right-hand drive models: for left-hand drive
models, bleed fhe opposite sides:
aj Left-hand rear brake,
bj Right-hand fnynt brake.
c) Right-hand rear brake.
d) Left-hand front brake.
Bleeding
Basic (two-man) method
13 Collect together a clean glass jar, a
suitable length of plastic or njbber tubing
which Is a tight m over the bleed screw, and
a ring spanner to fit the screw. Tbe help of an
assistant will also be required.
14 Remove the dust cap from the first bleed
screw in fhe sequence (see iltustrations). Fit
the spanner and tube to the screw, place the
other end of the tube in the jar, and pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube.
15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir
fluid level is mantained at least above the MIN
level line thnaughout the procedure.
16 Have the assistant fully depress the brake
pedal several times to build-up pressure, then
maintain it on the final downstroke.
17 While pedai pressure is maintained,
unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
turn) and allow the compressed fluid and
air to flow into the jar The assistant should
maintain pedal pressure, following it down to
the floor if necessary, and should not release
it until instructed to do so. When the tiow
stops, tighten the bleed screw again, have
the assistant release the pedal slowly, and
recheck the resen/oir fluid level.
18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16
and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
cylinder has been drained and refilled, and air is
being bled from the first screw in the sequence,
allow approximately five seconds between
cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill.
19 When no more air bubbles appear,
securely tighten the bleed screw, remove the
tube and spanner, and refit the dust cap. Do
not overtighten the bleed screw.
20 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
screws in the sequence, until all air is removed
from the system and the brake pedal feels firm
again.
2.14a Remove the dust caps from
2.14b . . . and rear bleed screws
23 Note that these kits simplify work so
much that it is easy to forget the master
cylinder resen/oir fluid level; ensure that this is
maintained at least above the MIN level line at
all times.
bled from the system; it will not be fit for
Using a pressure-bleeding kit
24 These kits are usually operated by a
reservoir of pressurised air contained in the
spare tyre. However, note that it wili probably
be necessary to reduce the pressure to a lower
level than normal; refer to the instructions
supplied with the kit.
25 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
container to the master cylinder reservoir,
bleeding can be carried out simply by
opening each screw in turn (in the specified
sequence], and allowing the fluid to flow out
until no more air bubbles can be seen in the
expelled fluid.
26 This method has the advantage that the
large resen/oir of fluid provides an additional
safeguard against air being drawn into the
system during bleeding.
27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective
when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when
bleeding the complete system at the time ot
routine fluid renewal.
All methods
28 When bleeding is complete, and firm
pedal feel is restored, wash off any spilt fluid,
securely tighten the bleed screws, and refit
the dust caps.
29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if
necessary (see Weekiy checks].
30 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has t>een
Using a one-way vaive Idt
21 As the name implies, these kits consist of
a length of tubing with a one-way valve fitted,
to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn
back into the system; some kits include a
translucent container, which can be positioned
so that the air bubbles can be more easily
seen flowing from the end of the tube.
22 The kit Is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened. The user returns to the
driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a
smooth, steady stroke, and slowly releases it;
this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear
of air bubbles.
3.2a Pull outtiie spring clip .
31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it
feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
the system, and further bleeding is required.
Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable
repetition of the bleeding procedure may be
due to worn master cylinder seals.
3
Hydraulic p i p e s a n d hoses -
Note: Before stading work, refer to the note
at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the
dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,
minimise fluid loss by first removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap and screwing it
down onto a piece of polythene. Alternatively,
flexible hoses can be sealed, if required, using
a proprietary brake hose clamp. Metal brake
pipe unions can be plugged (if care is taken
not to allow dirt into the system) or capped
immediately they are disconnected. Place
a wad of rag under any union that is to be
disconnected, to catch any spilt fluid.
2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,
unscrew the brake pipe union nut before
removing the spnng clip which secures the
hose to its mounting bracket. Where applicable,
unscrew the banjo union bolt securing the hose
to the caliper and recover the copper washers.
When removing the front flexible hose, pull oul
the spring clip and disconnect it from the strut
(see illustrafions).
3 To unscrew union nuts, it is preferable to
obtain a brake pipe spanner of the con-ect
size; these are available from most motor
accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting
open-ended spanner will be required, though
if the nuts are tight or corroded, ttieir flats may
be nounded-off if ttie spanner slips. In such a
case, a self-locking wrench Is often the only
way to unscrew a stubborn union, but it follows
that the pipe and the damaged nuts must be
renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union
and sumaunding area before disconnecting
it. If disconnecting a component with more
than one union, make a careful note of the
connections before disturbing any of them.
4 If a brake pipe Is to be renewed, it can be
obtained, cut to length and with the union nuts
and end flares in place, from Vauxhall/Opel
dealers. All that Is then necessary is to bend
it to shape, following the line of the original,
before fitting it to the car. Alternatively, most
motor accessory shops can make up brake
pipes from kits, but this requires very careful
measurement of the original, to ensure that
the new one is of the correct length. The
safest answer Is usually to take the original to
the shop as a pattem.
5 On refitting, do not overtighten the union
nuts,
6 When refitting hoses to the calipers, always
use new copper washers and tighten the
banjo union bolts to the specified torque.
Make sure that the hoses are positioned so
tiiat they will not touch sunounding bodywork
or the roadwheels.
7 Ensure that the pipes and hoses are
conectly routed, with no kinks, and that they
are secured in the clips or brackets pnavided.
After fitting, remove the polythene from the
resen/oir, and bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 2. Wash off any spilt
fluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.
4.3a Extract the retaining clip and release
the hydraulic hose from the suspension
strut
4.3b If worWng on the left-hand caliper, lift
up the bleed screw cap to release the wire
for the pad wear warning Indicator
4
Front b r a k e p a d s renewal
A
Warning: Renew BOTH sets of
front brake pads at the same time NEVER renew ffie pads on oniy one
wfieel, as uneven bralong may result Note
tfjat Ihe dust created by wear of ttie pads
may contain asbestos, wliicfi is a healOi
hazard. Never blow it out with compressed
air, and do not inhale any of it An approved
filtering mask should be worn when working
on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents lo clean brake parts - use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Push in the caliper piston by sliding the
caliper body towanjs the outside of the vehicle
by hand.
3 Follow the accompanying photos (Illustrations 4.3a to 4.3ab) for the actual pad
renewal procedure, bearing In mind the
additional points listed below. Be sure to
stay in order and read the caption under
each illustration. Note that if the old pads are
to be refitted, ensure that they are identified
so that they can be returned to their original
" Afterremovlngthecaliperfromthemounting
t^^acket, tie it to the suspension strut using
^ cable tie or suitable p.ece of wire. Do not
4.3d Depress the locking lab end release
the wiring connector from the suspension
strut
.. then hoM the upper part of the
lor and twist the lower part in the
direction of the arrow
4.3h Release the legs of the r(
spring from the caliper body . . .
4.3i . . . then remove the spring Irom the
caliper mounting bracket
4.31 . . . and lower guide bolts and n
them from the caliper
4.30 Remove the outer pad tr
mounting bracket
4.3r With the retaining clip in place on the
end of Hie wire, push the wire back into
position on the new pad
4.3j Remove the dust caps from the upper
and lower guide bolts
4.3m Lift the caliper and inner pad off the
mounting bracket
4.3n Remove the inner pad irom me caliper
piston, noting that it Is retained by a spring
clip attached to the pad backing plate
4.3p Measure the thickness of the pad
(notion matenal and backing plate. If any
are worn down to the specified minimum,
or fouled with oil or grease, all four pads
must be renewed
4.3q It may be necessary to transfer tho
pad wear warning Indicator wire to the
new pad, if so extract ttie retaining clip and
the wire from the old pad
4,3s Apply a little high melting-point copper
brake grease to the pad backing plate
contact areas on Uie mounting bracket
4.3t If new pads ai« to be fitted, before
refitting the caliper, push t>ack the caliper
piston whilst opening the bleed screw. This is
to prevent any dirt/d^rrs being forced back
up the hydraulic circuit in the ABS modulator
4.3u Fit the outer pad to the caliper
mounting bracket, enKirIng that its friction
material to facing the brake disc
4.3v Where applicable, feed the pad wear
warning Indicator wire through the hole in
the c a l i p e r . . .
4.3w . . . then fit the inner pad t o the
caliper, ensuring that its clip is correctly
located In the caliper piston
ng legs ir
the holes in the c a l i p e r . . .
smallest particles can cause the system to
fail through blockage. The pad retraction
method descnbed here prevents any debris
in the brake fluid expelled from the caliper
from being passed back to the ABS hydraulic
unit, as weff as preventing any chance of
4.3aa . . . then hold the lags in place and
locate the upper part of the spring behind
the lugs on the mounting bracket
allow fhe caliper to hang unsupported on the
flexible brake hose.
5 If the original brake pads are still sen/lceable,
carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire
brush or similar, paying particular attention to
the sides and back of the metal backing plate.
Clean out the grooves in the friction material,
and pick out any large embedded particles of
dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations
in the caliper body/mounting bracket.
6 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the
guide bolts are a snug fit in the caliper
mounting bracket. Brush the dust and dirt
from the caliper and piston, but do not Inhale
It, as it is injurious to health. Inspect the dust
seal around the piston for damage, and the
piston for evidence of fluid leaks, conoslon
. If attention to any of these
4 J a b Refit the hydraulic hose to the
suspension strut and secure wlti) the
retaining clip. Where applicable, reconnect
and secure the pad wear warning indicator
to complete
components \s necessary, refer to Section 7.
7 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the
caliper piston must be pushed back Into the
cylinder to allow for the extra pad thickness.
Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use
suitable pieces of wood as levers. Clamp off
the flexible brake hose leading to the caliper
then connect a brake bleeding kit to the
caliper bleed screw. Open the bleed screw as
the piston is retracted, the surplus brake fluid
will then be collected in the bleed kit vessel
(see Illustration 4.3t}. Close the bleed screw
just before the caliper piston is pushed fully
into the caliper This should ensure no air
enters the hydraulic system.
Caution: The ABS unit contains hydraulk:
components that are very sensitive to
impurities in fhe brake fluid. Even the
8 On later models, the brake pads may be
fitted with mechanical rather than electrical
brake pad wear warning indicators. The
mechanical warning indicators consist of a
metal strip riveted to the backing plate. When
the pad friction material reaches the minimum
thickness, the metal strip contacts the disc
causing a squeaking noise audible to the
driver. When fitting brake pads of this type,
the metal strip must point downwards, and
the anew on the pad backing plate must pdnt
in the direction of fonwani natation of the disc.
9 With the brake pads installed, depress the
brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (nonassisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the
pads are pressed Into firm contact with the
brake disc.
10 Repeat the above procedure on the
remaining front brake caliper.
11 Refitthe roadwheels, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified torque setting.
12 Check the hydraulic fluid level as
described in Weekly checks.
Caution: New pads will not give full braldng
efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be
prepared for this, and avoid hard braking
as tar as possible for the first hundred
miles or so after pad renewal.
5
Rear brake p a d s renewal
A
Warning: Renew BOTH sets of
rear brake pads at the same
time - NEVER renew the pads on
only one wheel, as uneven braking may
result. Note that the dust created by wear
of the pads may contain asbestos, which
is a health hazard. Never blow it out with
compressed air, and do not inhale any of it.
An approved filtering mask should be worn
when working on the brakes. DO NOT use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts - use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only.
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the rear roadwheels.
2 Follow the accompanying photos (illustrations 5.2a to 5.2o) for the actual pad
renewal procedure, bearing in mind the
additional points listed below. Be sure tc
stay in order and read the caption under
each illustration. Note that if the old pads are
to be refitted, ensure that they are identified
so that they can be returned to their original
positions.
LA
S.2a Release the legs of the retaining
apnng trom the caliper body and remove
the spring
5.2d Lift the caliper off tfie mounting
bracket and suspend it from a suitable
place under tlie wheel arch using a cable
tie or similar
3 If the original brake pads are still serviceable,
carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire
brush or similar, paying particular attention to
the sides and back of the metal backing plate.
Clean out the grooves in the friction material,
and pick out any large embedded particles of
dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations
in the caliper body/mounting bracket.
4 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the
guide bolts are a snug fit in the caliper
mounting bracket. Brush the dust and dirt
from the caliper and piston, but do not inhale
it, as It is injurious to health. Inspect the dust
seal around the piston for damage, and the
piston for evidence of fluid leaks, corrosion
or damage. If attention to any of these
components is necessary, refer to Section 8.
5 if new brake pads are to be fitted, it will
be necessary to retract the piston fully into
the caliper bore by rotating it in a clockwise
direction. This can be achieved by using
sturdy circlip pliers, noting that as well as
being turned, the piston has to be pressed in
very firmly. Special tools are readily available
to achieve this with less effort. While the
caliper is being retracted, clamp off the
flexible brake hose leading to the caliper then
connect a brake bleeding kit to the caliper
bleed screw. Open the bleed screw as the
piston is retracted, the surplus brake fluid will
then be collected in the bleed kit vessel (see
illustrations S.2h and 5.21). Close the bleed
screw just before the caliper piston is pushed
fully into the caliper. This should ensure no air
enters the hydraulic system.
Caution: The ABS unit contains hydraulic
components that are very sensitive to
Impurities in the brake fluid. Even the
smallest particles can cause the system to
fail through blockage. The pad retraction
method described here prevents any deiirls
in the brake fíuid expelled from the caliper
from being passed back to the ABS hydrauOc
unit, as well as preventing any chance ot
damage to the master cylinder seals.
6 With the brake pads installed, depress the
brake pedal repeatedly, until normal (nonassisted) pedal pressure is restored, and the
pads are pressed into firm contact with the
brake disc.
7 Repeat the above procedure on the
remaining rear brake caliper.
8 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified torque setting.
9 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described
in Weekly checks.
Caution: New pads will not give full braking
efficiency until they have bedded-in. Be
prepared for this, and avoid hard braking
as far as possible for the first hundred
miles or so after pad renewal.
5.2b Remove the dust caps from the upper
and lower caliper guide bolts . . .
5.2c . . . then unscrew both gufde boHs
and remove them from tho caliper
5.2e Remove the outer p a d .
5,2f . . . and inner pad from the caliper
mounfing bracket
5.2g Measure the thickness of the pad
friction material and backing plate. If any
are worn down to the specified minimum,
or fouled with oil or grease, all four pads
must be renewed
5 J h Tixn ana press the caliper piston
firmly clockwise using suitable pliers . . .
retracting tool to retract the piston
Sjy Apply a little high melting-point copper
brake grease to the pad backing (date
contact areas on tt>e mounting bracket
5.2k Rt the biner pad to the caliper
5.2m Slide the caliper into position In the
mounting bracKet and refit the guide bolts
5.2n Tighten the guide bolts to the
speciTiea torque, then refit the dust caps
5.20 Locate the retaining spring legs Into
ttie holes in the caliper, then hold the legs
in place and locate the upper part of the
spring behind the lugs on the mounting
bracket
apply the handbrake, and if checking a rear
disc, chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake, then jack up the relevant end of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
Jacliing and vehicle support). Remove the
roadwheel.
2 Check that the brake disc securing screw is
tight, then fit a spacer approximately 10.0 mm
thick to one of the roadwheel bolts, and refit
and tighten the bolt in the hole opposite the
disc secuhng screw.
3 Rotate the brake disc, and examine it for
deep scoring or grooving. Light scoring is
normal, but if excessive, the disc should be
removed and either renewed or machined
(within the specified limits) by an engineering
works. The minimum thickness is given in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
4 Using a dial gauge, or a flat metal block
and feeler blades, check that the disc run-out
does not exceed the figure given in the
Specifications. Measure the mn-out 10.0 mm
in fram the outer edge of the disc.
5 if the disc run-out is excessive, remove the
disc as described later, and check that the
disc-to-hub surfaces are perfectly clean. Refrt
the disc and check the run-out again.
6 If the run-out is still excessive, the disc
should be renewed,
7 To remove a disc, proceed as follows.
6
Brake d i s c inspection, removal
and refitting
^
^
Note: Before starting wori<. refer to tlie
warning at ttie beginning of Section 4 or 5
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust. If
either disc requires renewal, both shouid be
renewed at the same time together with new
pads, to ensure even and consistent bralang.
Inspection
1 Remove the wheel trim, then loosen the
roadwheel bolts. If checking a front disc.
5.21 . . . followed by the outei
Removal
8 Remove the roadwheel bolt and spacer
used when checking the disc.
9 Remove the front brake pads as described
in Section 4.
10 Undo the two bolts securing the caliper
mounting bracket to the swivel hub and remove
the mounting bracket (see Illustrations).
11 Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the disc from the hub (see Illustrations).
Refitting
12 RefH the disc, making sure that the mating
faces of the disc and hub are perfectly clean,
and apply a little locking fluid to the threads of
the securing screw.
13 Refit the caliper mounting bracket and
tighten the tmlts to the specified torque.
14 Refit the brake pads as descnbed in
Section 4.
Rear
disc
Removal
16 Vi/here applicable, remove the roadvirtieel
l3oit and spacer used when checking the disc.
16 Remove the rear brake pads as described
in Section 5,
17 Undo the two bolts secunng the caliper
mounting bracket to the hub earner and remove
the mounting bracket (see Illustration).
18 Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the disc from the hub (see lllosfrations).
19 Refit the disc, making sure that the mating
faces of the disc and hub are perfectly clean,
and apply a little locking fluid to the threads of
the securing screw.
20 Refit the caliper mounting bracket and
tighten the traits to the specified torque.
21 Refit the brake pads as described in Section 5,
7
Front b r a k e caliper -
^
removal, overtiaul and refitting
Note: New brake hose copper wasfiers wHt be
required when refitting. Before starting work,
6.11a Remove the securing screw . . .
refer to the note at the beginning or Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydrauiic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 4
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust
Removal
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle supped). Remove
the roadwheel.
2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap and screwing it
down onto a piece of polythene. Alternatively,
use a brake hose olamp to clamp the flexible
hose leading to the brake caliper
3 Clean the area around the caliper brake
hose union. Unscrew and remove the union
bolt, and recover the copper sealing washer
from each side of the hose union. Discard
the washers; new ones must be used on
6.18a Remove the securing s
(arrowed)...
refitting. Plug the hose end and caliper hole,
to minimise fluid loss and prevent the ingress
of dust and dirt into the hydraulic system.
4 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 4, then remove the caliper from the
vehicle.
Overhaul
Note: Vauxhall/Opel special tool KM-6629-5
or a suitable alternative will be required to fit
tfie piston dust seal to the caliper body.
5 With the caliper on the bench, wipe it clean
with a cloth rag,
6 Withdraw the partially-ejected piston
from the caliper body, and remove the dust
seal. The piston can be withdrawn by hand,
or if necessary pushed out by applying
compressed air to the brake hose union hole.
Only low pressure should be required, such as
is generated by a foot pump.
7.7 Remowng the piston seal from the
caliper body
7 Using a small screwdriver, carefully
remove the piston seal from the groove in the
caliper, taking care not to mari< the tore (see
Illustration).
8 Carefully press the guide bushes out of the
caliper body.
9 Thoroughly clean all components, using
only methylated spirit or clean hydraulic fluid.
Never use mineral-based solvents such as
petrol or paraffin, which will attack the rubber
components of the hydraulic system. Dry the
components using compressed air or a clear,
lint-free cloth. If available, use compressed air
to blow clear the fluid passages.
A
Warning: Wear eye
protection
when using compressed air.
10 Check all components, and renew any
that are worn or damaged. If the piston and/or
cylinder bore are scratched excessively, renew
the complete caliper body, Similariy check the
condition of the guide bushes and bolts; both
bushes and bolts should be undamaged and
(w4ien cleaned) a reasonably tight sliding fit, if
there is any doubt about the condition of any
component, renew it.
11 If the caliper is fit for further use, obtain the
necessary components from your Vauxhall/
Opel dealer. Renew the caliper seals and dust
covers as a matter of course; these should
never be re-used.
12 Onreassembly,ensurethatalIcomponents
are absolutely clean and dry.
13 Dip the piston and the new piston seal In
dean hydraulic fluid, and smear clean fluid on
the cylinder bore surface.
8.3 Rear caliper brake hose union bott
(arrowed)
14 Locate the new seal in the cylinder bore
groove, using only the fingers to manipulate it
into position.
15 Fit the new dust seal to the piston, then
insert the piston into the cylinder bore using
a twisting motion to ensure it enters the seal
conectly.
16 Ensure that the piston dust seal sits
squarely and evenly on the caliper body
then place the Vauxhall/Opel special tool, or
suitable alternative, over the dust seal. Using a
piston retracting tool or G-olamp push the tool
outwanjs to seat the dust seal onto the edge
of the caliper body. With the seal correctly
located, remove the tool,
17 Insert the guide bushes into position in the
caliper body.
Refitting
18 Refit the brake pads as described in
Section 4, together with the caliper which at
this stage will not have the hose attached.
19 Position a new copper sealing washer on
each side of the hose union, and connect the
brake hose to the caliper. Ensure that the hose
is correctly positioned against the caliper body
lug, then install the union bolt and tighten it to
the specified torcjue setting.
20 Remove the brake hose clamp or
polythene, and bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 2. Note that, providing
the precautions described were taken to
minimise brake fluid loss, it should only be
necessary to bleed the relevant front brake
circuit.
21 Refit the roadwheel, then tower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified torque,
Only the guide bushes and dust seal can be
individually renewed.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands
(see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the
roadwheel.
2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap and screwing it
down onto a piece of polythene. Alternatively,
use a brake hose clamp to clamp the flexible
hose leading to the brake caliper.
3 Clean the area around the caliper brake
hose union. Unscrew and remove the union
bolt, and recover the copper sealing washer
from each side of the hose union (see
illusfration). Discard the washers; new ones
must be used on refitting. Plug the hose end
and caliper hole, to minimise fluid loss and
prevent the ingress of dust and dirt into the
hydraulic system,
4 Disengage the handbrake Inner cable from
the caliper lever then pull the outer cable
grommet out of the caliper bracket (see
illustrations).
5 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 5, then remove the caliper from the
vehicle.
Overtiaui
Note: Vauxhall/Opel special tool KM-6629-4
or a suitable alternative will be required to fit
the piston dust seal to the caliper body.
6 With the caliper on the bench, wipe It clean
with a cloth rag.
7 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise
out the dust seal Irom the caliper, taking care
not to damage the piston.
8 Rear brake caliper «^ 8 Carefully press the guide bushes out of the
caliper body.
removai, overiiaiii and refitting
9 Further dismantling of the caliper is not
possible as individual parts are not available
separately.
Note 1: Before starting work, refer to the note 10 Thoroughly clean all components, using
at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the only methylated spirit or clean hydraulic fluid.
dangers of hydraulic fluid, and to the warning Diy the components using a clean, lint-free
at the beginning of Section 5 concerning the cloth.
dangers of asbestos dust.
11 Check the condition of the exposed
Note 2: Due to the integral handbral,
}r cable
8.4b . . . then pull the outer cable grommet
out ot ttie caliper ta^oket
Similarly ciieck the condition of the guide
bushes and boits; both bushes and bolts
should be undamaged and (when cleaned) a
reasonably tight sliding fit. If there is any doubt
about the condition ol any component, renew
it.
12 If the caliper is fit for further use, obtain the
necessary components from your Vauxhail/
Opel dealer. Renew the caliper dust seal as a
matter of course; it should never be re-used.
13 Locate the new dust seal In the groove in
the piston. Ensure that the piston dust seal
sits squarely and evenly on the caliper body
then place the Vauxhall/Opel special tool, or
suitable alternative, over the dust seal. Using a
piston refracting tool or G-clamp push the tool
outwards to seat the dust seal onto the edge
of the caliper body. With the seal correctly
located, remove the tool.
14 Insert the guide bushes into position in the
caliper body.
Refitting
15 Refit the brake pads as described In
Section 5, together with the caliper which at
this stage will not have the hose attached.
16 Position a new copper sealing washer on
each side of the hose union, and connect the
brake hose to the caliper. Ensure that the hose
is conectly positioned against the caliper body
lug, then install the union bolt and tighten it to
the specified torque setting.
17 Engage the handbrake outer cable
grommet with the caliper bracket, then pull
back the operating lever and reconnect the
handbrake inner cable.
18 Remove the brake hose clamp or
polythene, and bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 2. Note that, providing
the precautions described were taken to
minimise brake fluid loss, it should only be
necessary to bleed the relevant front brake
circuit.
19 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified ton;|ue.
9 Master cylinderremoval, overhaul and refitting
^
Note 1: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at fhe beginning of Section 2
concerning tlie dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Note 2: New master cylinder retaining nuts
will be required for refitting.
Removai
1 Remove the master cylinder reservoir
cap, and siphon the hydraulic fluid from the
resen/oir. Note: Do not siphon the fluid by
mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or
an old hydrometer. Alternatively, open any
convenient bleed screw in the system, and
gently pump the brake pedal to expei the fluid
through a plastic tube connected to the screw
(see Section 2).
9.3 Disconnect the wiring connector
(arrowed) from the brake fluid level sensor
2 On left-hand drive models, lift up the cooling
system expansion tank and remove it from the
mounting bracket. Place the tank to one side.
3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
brake fluid level sensor at the base of the
reservoir (see illustration).
4 On models with manual transmission,
release the clip and disconnect the clutch
hydraulic pipe from the fluid reservoir (see
illustration), lape uvbr or piuy the oullet.
5 Place cloth rags beneath the fluid reservoir
then carefully pnse it from the top of the
master cylinder and withdraw from the engine
compartment. If necessary, prise the resen/oir
seals from the top of the cylinder
6 Place cloth rags beneath the master cylinder
to collect escaping brake fluid. Identify the
brake lines for position, then unscrew the
union nuts and move the lines to one side.
Tape over or plug the line outlets,
7 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw
fhe master cylinder from the vacuum servo
unit (see illustration). Recover the seal. Take
care not lo spill fluid on the vehicie paintwork.
Note that new retaining nuts will be required
for refitting,
Overtiaul
8 At thefimeofwhting, master cylinder overhaul
is not possible as no spares are available.
9 The only parts available individually are the
fluid reservoir, its mounting seals, the filler cap
and the master cylinder mounting seal.
10 If the master cylinder is worn excessively,
it must be renewed.
11 To remove the fluid reservoir, undo the
retaining bolf and pull the reservoir out of the
rubber seals in the master cylinder body Place
absorbent rags under the master cylinder as
you do this to catch the escaping hydraulic
fluid,
12 Remove the reservoir seals from the
master cylinder body and obtain new seals for
9.4 Release the clip (arrowed) and
disconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe from
ttie fluid reservoir
and dry then fit the new seal to the rear of the
master cylinder.
16 Fit the master cyiinder to the sen/o unit,
ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters
the master cylinder piston centrally. Fit the
new retaining nuts and tighten them to the
specified torque setting.
17 Refit the brake lines and tighten the union
nuts securely
18 On manual transmission models,
reconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe and
secure with the clip.
19 Reconnect the wiring connector to the
brake fluid level sensor
20 On left-hand drive models, refit the
cooling system expansion tank to its mounting
bracket.
21 Remove the reservoir filler cap and
polythene, then top-up the resen/oit with fresh
hydraulic fluid to the MAX mark (see Weekly
checks).
22 Bleed the hydrauiic systems as described
in Section 2 and Chapter 6 then reflt the filler
cap. Thoroughly check the operation of the
brakes and clutch before using the vehicle on
the road,
10 Brakepedalremoval and refitting
13 Lubricate the new seals with clean brake
hydraulic fluid and push the new seals into
position.
14 Refit the reservoir and secure with the
retaining bolL
Refitting
15 Ensure that the mating surfaces are clean
^
Note 1: The brake pedal mounting bracket,
the brake pedal and the clutch pedal are one
assembly and must be renewed as a complete
unit In the event of a frontal collision, fhe
o unit stud bolts (E
brake pedal is released from Its bearing In
the mounting bracket to prevent injury to the
driver's leet and legs (this also applies to the
clutch pedal). If an alrbag has been deployed,
inspect the pedal and mounting bracket
assembly and if necessary renew the complete
unit
Note 2; New pedal mounting bracket retaining
nuts, vacuum servo unit stud bolts and brake
master cylinder retaining nuts will be required
for refitting.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the steering column as described
in Chapter 10.
3 Remove the complete facia assembly
and the facia crossmember as described in
Chapter 11.
4 Remove the stop-light switch from the pedal
mounting bracket as described in Section 15.
5 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner assembly and
the accelerator pedal/position sensor Where
fitted, remove the clutch swrtch from the pedal
mounting bracket.
6 Working In the engine compartment,
unscrew the two nuts securing the brake
master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit.
Now unscrew the two stud bolts securing
the vacuum servo unit to the bulkhead (see
Illustration 9.7).
7 Separate the clutch pedal trom the clutch
master cylinder piston rod by releasing the
retaining clip at the pedal. Vauxhall/Opel
technicians use a special tool to do this,
however, the clip may t>e released by pressing
the retaining tabs together using screwdrivers,
while at the same time pulling the clutch pedal
reanwards. Note: Do not remove the clip from
the master cylinder piston rod, just release it
from the pedal.
6 Unhook the return spring from behind
the brake pedal to release all tension In the
9 Carefully prise open and
retaining dip, and withdraw the clevis pin
secunng the brake pedal to the vacuum sen/o
unit pushrod.
10 From inside the car, slacken and remove
the three nuts securing the pedal mounting
bracket to the bulkhead. Note that two of
the three nuts also secure the clutch master
cylinder On diesel engine models, move the
bulkhead insulation to one side lor access to
the nuts, and use a plastic wedge or similar
tool to retain the insulation clear.
11 Withdraw the mounting bracket and pedal
assembly from the bulkhead, while at the
same time guiding the clutch master cylinder
piston rod and retaining clip out of the clutch
pedal.
Refitting
12 Manoeuvre the mounting bracket and
pedal assembly into position, whilst ensuring
that the clutch master cylinder piston rod
and its retaining clip align correctly with the
clutch pedal. Also ensure that the vacuum
servo unit pushrod locates around the brake
pedal. Fit three new pedal mounting bracket
retaining nuts and tighten them to the
specified torque.
13 On diesel engine models, locate the
bullhead insulation back into position.
14 Push the clutch master cylinder piston rod
retaining clip Into the clutch pedal, ensuring
that the two lugs on the clip fully engage.
15 Apply a smear of multipurpose grease to
the clevis pin then align the vacuum servo
unit pushrod with the brake pedal hole and
insert the pin. Secure the pin in position with
the retaining clip, making sure it is con-ectly
located in the gnaove.
16 Hook the return spring into position tiehind
the brake pedal.
17 Working in the engine compartment, fit the
two new stud bolts securing the vacuum sen/o
unit to the bulkhead and tighten the bolts to
the specified torque. Fit the two new brake
master cylinder retaining nuts and tighten the
nuts to the specified torque.
18 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and refit the air cleaner assembly and the
accelerator pedal/position sensor Where
fitted, refit the clutch switch to the pedal
mounting bracket.
19 Retit the stop-light switch to the pedal
mounting bracket as described in Section 15.
20 Retit the facia crossmember and facia
assembly as described in Chapter 11.
21 Refit the steering column as described in
Chapter 10,
22 Reconnect the battery negative terminal
on completion.
11 V a c u u m servo u n i t testing, removai and refitting
35;
Testing
1 To test the operation of the servo unit, with
the engine off. depress the footbrake several
times to exhaust the vacuum. Now start the
engine, keeping the pedal firmly depressed.
As the engine starts, there should be a
noticeable give" in the brake
builds-up. Allow the engine tc njn
for at least two minutes, then switch it off.
The brake pedal should now feel nonnal, but
further applications should result in the pedal
feeling firmer, the pedal stroke decreasing with
each application.
2 If the sen/o does not operate as described,
first inspect the servo unit check valve as
described in Section 12,
3 If the servo unit still fails to operate
satisfactorily, the fault lies within the unit itself.
Repairs to the unit are not possible; if faulty,
the servo unit must be renewed.
Removal
R i g h t - h a n d drive m o d e l s
4 On diesel engine models, it will first be
necessary to remove the engine and transmission assembly as described in Chapter 20
or 2D to obtain the necessary clearance for
removal of the sen/o unit,
5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
6 Remove the master cylinder as described in
Section 9.
7 Remove the facia footwell trim panel on the
driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
8 Unhook the return spring from behind
the brake pedal to release all tension in the
spring.
9 Carefully prise open and remove the
retaining clip, and withdraw the clevis pin
securing the brake pedal to the vacuum servo
unit pushrod.
10 Pull out the vacuum hose from the
rubber grommet in the vacuum sen/o (see
illusfration),
11 Unscrew the two stud bolts securing
the vacuum servo unit to the bulkhead,
and remove the servo unit from the engine
compartment (see illustration 9.7). Note that
new bolts will be required for refitting.
Left-hand drive m o d e l s
12 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
13 Lift up the cooling system expansion tank
and remove it from the mounting bracket.
Place the tank to one side.
14 Remove the ABS hydraulic modulator
together with its mounting bracket as
described In Section 18.
15 Remove the master cylinder as described
in Section 9.
16 Remove the facia footwell trim panel on
the driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
17 Unhook the return spring from behind
the brake pedal to release all tension In the
spnng.
18 Carefully prise open and remove the
retaining clip, and withdraw the clevis pin
secunng the brake pedal to the vacuum servo
unit pushrod.
19 Pull out the vacuum hose from the njbt>er
grommet in the vacuum servo (sea Illustration 11.10).
20 Unscrew the two stud bolts securing
the vacuum servo unit to the bulkhead,
and remove the servo unit frt>m the engme
compartment (see Illustration 9.7). Note that
new tiolts wili be required for refitting.
Testing
5 Examine the check valve and hose for signs
of damage, and renew if necessary. Tbe valve
may be tested by blowing through it in both
directions. Air should flow through the valve
in one direction oniy - when blown through
from the servo unit end. If air flows in both
directions, or not at all, renew the valve and
hose as an assembly.
Refitting
R i g h t - h a n d drive m o d e l s
21 Locate the vacuum servo unit in position
on the bulkhead ensuring that the servo unit
pushrod locates correctly around the brake
pedal. Befit the two new retaining stud bol;s
and tighten them to the specified torque.
22 Refit the vacuum hose to the servo
grommet, ensuring that the hose is correctly
23 Apply a smear of multipurpose grease to
the clevis pin then align the servo unit pushrod
with the brake pedal hole and Insert the pin.
Secure the pin in position with the retaining
clip, making sure it is correctly located in the
groove.
24 Hook the return spring into position behind
the brake pedal, then refit the facia footwell
trim panel as described in Chapter 11,
25 Refit the brake master cylinder as
described in Section 9.
26 On diesel engine models, refit the engine
and transmission assembly as described in
Chapter 2C or 2D27 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative terminal.
Left-hand drive m o d e l s
28 Locate the vacuum servo unit in position
on the bulkhead ensuring that the servo unit
pushrod locates correctly around the brake
pedal. Refit the two new retaining stud bolts
and tighten them to the specified torque.
29 Refit the vacuum hose to the servo
gnammet, ensuring that the hose is correctly
seated,
30 Apply a smear of multipurpose grease to
the clevis pin then align the sen/o unit pushrod
with fhe brake pedal hole and insert the pin.
Secure the pin in position with the retaining
clip, making sure it is correctly located in the
groove.
31 Hook the return spring into position behind
the brake pedal, then refit the facia footwell
trim panel as described in Chapter 11.
32 Refit the brake maste'- cylinder as
13.3 Push tfie piston rod and sprmg
with a suitable tool, then press down the
transport fixing to lock ttie mechanism
12,3 Disconnect the vacuum hose
quick-release fitting at the vacuum pump
on diesel engines
described in Section 9, but don't bleed the
hydraulic oin;uits at this stage,
33 Refit the ABS hydrauiic modulator and
mounting bracket as described in Section 18,
34 Refit the cooling system expansion tank
to the mounting bracket,
35 Refit the battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A,
36 Remove the master oyiinds
cap and polythene, then top-up the
with fresh hydraulic fluid fo the MAX mark (see
Weekly checks),
37 Bleed the hydraulic systems as described
in Section 2 and Chapter 6 then refit the filler
cap. Thoroughly check the operation of the
brakes and clutch before using the vehicle on
the road.
12 V a c u u m servo u n i t
c h e c k valve a n d h o s e removai, testing and refitting
A--^
^
Removal
1 Pull out the vacuum hose from the rubber
grommet in the vacuum servo unit (see
illustration 11.10).
2 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
3 Disconnect the hose quick-release fitting
from the inlet manifold (petrol engines)
or vacuum pump (diesel engines) (see
illustratlon).
4 Unclip the vacuum hose from Its supports
13.5a Push a suitable socket
clevis pin . . .
6 Examine the servo unit rubber sealing
grommet for signs of damage or deterioration,
and renew as necessary.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal ensuring
that the quick-release connector audibly looks
in position, and that the hose is correctly
seated in the servo grommet.
8 On completion, start the engine and check
lhat there are no air leaks.
13 H a n d b r a k e f e v e r -
^
removai and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the rear centre console as
described in Chapter 11.
2 Ensure that the handbrake lever is released
(off).
3 bet the handbrake cable self-adjusting
mechanism to the fully released position
as follows. Push the pislon rod and spring
rearward with a suitable tool. Hold them in this
position and press down the transport fixing
to lock the mechanism in the released position
(see lllustration).
4 Remove the complete exhaust system and
centre heat shield as described in Chapter 4A
or 4B as applicable.
5 From under the car, use a suitable socket
to depress the lugs of the clevis pin retaining
collar (see Illustrations), Pull the clevis pin
upwards and out of the handbrake cable
equaliser to release the handbrake lever
connecting rod. Note that a new retaining
collar will be required for refitting.
13.5b . . . to depress the lugs (arrowed) of
the clevis pin retaining collar
14 Handbrake c a b l e rwnoval and refitting
13.6 Disconnect the winng connector
[arrowed) from the handbrake lever
warning light switch
13.7 Handbrake lever retaining nuts
(arrowed)
6 From inside the car disconnect the wiring
connector from the handbrake lever warning
light switch (see Illustration). Reiease the
plastic cable guide fnam the handbrake iever
mounting stud and move the cable to one
side.
7 Undo the four retaining nuts and remove the
handbrake lever assembly from inside the car
(see illustration). Recover the seal between
the handbrake lever and vehicle floor
9 Reconnect the handbrake lever warning
light switch wiring connector and clip the
plastic guide onto the mounting stud.
10 Fit a new retaining collar to the handbrake
lever connecting rod clevis pin. Align the
connecting rod with the hole in the equaliser
and fit the retaining collar from above. Ensure
that the clevis pin is pushed fully home so that
the lugs on the retaining collar lock the clevis
pin in position.
11 Refit the heat shield and the exhaust
system as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, as
applicable,
12 Pull the handbrake lever up to release the
transport fixing and automatically adjust the
handbrake cable.
13 Refit the centre console as described in
Chapter 11,
Refitting
8 Ensure that the seal is conectly seated on
the vehicle floor then locate the handbrake
lever assembly in position over the mounting
studs- Refit the four retaining nuts and tighten
to the specified torque.
Removai
1 The handbrake cable consists of two parts,
a short front connecting rod which connects
the lever to the equaliser plate, and the
main cable which links the equaliser plate
to the left-hand and right-hand rear brakes.
The connecting rod is an integral part ot the
handbrake lever assembly and cannot be
separated. The main cable is supplied as one
part, together with the equaliser plate.
2 Carry out the operations described in
Section 13, paragraphs 1 to 5.
3 Disengage the handbrake inner cable
from the rear brake caliper levers, then pull
the outer cable grommets out of the caliper
brackets (see illustrations 8.4a and 8.4b),
4 Undo the bolt secunng the handbrake cable
support bracket to the underbody on each
side (see Illustration),
5 Release the cable from the remaining
support brackets and clips on the underbody
and suspension arms, and remove the cable
fn^m under the car (see illustrations).
Refitting
6 Locate the cable in position in the
underbody support clips and brackets, and
tighten the support bracket bolt on each side
securely
7 Engage the handbrake outer cable grommet
with the
;ket ( each side, then
ting levers and
pull back thi
ir cable.
reconnect tne
8 Carry out the operationss described in
Section i::
15 Stop-iight switchremov:^, refitting
and adjustment
Removal
1 The stop-light switch is located on the
pedai bracket in the driver's footwell, behind
Ihe facia (see illustration).
14.4 Undo the bolt (anrowed) securing the
handbrake cable support bracket to the
underbody on each side
14.5b . , . from the cable guUes
(arrowed)...
14.5c . . . and support
16.1 Stop-light switch location (arnivrad)
on the brake pedal bracket
2 Remove the facia footwell trim panel on the
driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
3 Disconnect the wiring plug from the
stop-light switch.
4 Push the brake pedal down, pull out the
brake switch actuating pin, then unclip the
locking sleeve fream around the actuating pin
{see illustrations).
5 Release the securing clips and pull the
switch to disengage it from the pedal mounting
bracket.
Refitting
and
adjustment
6 With the actuating pin pulled out, and the
locking sleeve undipped, refit the switch to
the pedal bracket.
7 Secure the switch with the locking sleeve.
8 Release the brake pedal and the pedal
will automatically adjust the position of the
actuating pin,
9 Reconnect the wiring connector, then refit
the facia footwell trim panel as described in
Chapter 11.
16 Handbrake warning
light s w i t c h removal and refitting
%
^
Removal
1 Remove the rear centre console as described
in Chapter 11.
2 Disconnect the wiring connector from
the warning light switch on the side of the
handbrake lev
3 Undiptheti
n the side of the, indbrake
lever, then ur
bracket (see illustration).
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal,
15,4a Pull out the centre actuating pin
arrowed (switch removed for c l a r i t y ) , . .
at which the vehicle is travelling. It can then
use this speed to determine when a wheel is
decelerating at an abnormal rate, compared
to the speed of the vehicle, and therefore
predicts when a wheel is about to lock. During
normal operation, the system functions in the
same way as a conventional braking system.
If the ECU senses that a wheel is about to
lock, it operates the relevant solenoid valve(s)
In the hydraulic unit, which then isolates fram
the master cylinder the relevant brake(s) on the
wheel(s) which is/are about to lock, effectively
sealing-in the hydraulic pressure.
If the speed of rotation of the wheel
continues to decrease at an abnormal rate,
the ECU operates the electrically-driven pump
; the hydraulic fluid back into the
der, releasing the brake. Once
the speed of rotation of the wheel returns to
e rate, the pump stops, and the
solenoid valves switch again, allowing the
hydraulic master cylinder pressure to return to
the caliper, which then re-applies the brake.
1 nir. cvcio can be carried out many times a
second.
ABS is fitted as standard to all models. On
higher specification models, the ABS may also
incorporate traction control or an electronic
stability program as additional safety features.
The ABS system comprises a hydraulic
modulator and electronic control unit together
with four wheel speed sensors. The hydraulic
modulator contains the electronic control
unit (ECU), the hydraulic solenoid valves
(one set for each brake) and the electricallydriven pump. The purpose of the system is
to prevent the wheel(s) locking during heavy
braking. This is achieved by automatic release
of the brake on the relevant wheel, followed
by re-application of the brake.
I tie aciion of the solenoid valves and return
s pulses in the hydraulic circuit.
When the ABS system is functioning, these
pulses can be felt through the brake pedal.
On eariy models with traction control, the
ABS hydraulic modulator incorporates an
additional set of solenoid valves which operate
the traction control system. The system
operates at speeds up to approximately 30
mph using the signals supplied by the wheel
speed sensors. If the ECU senses that a driving
wheel IS about to lose traction, it prevents this
by momentanly applymg the relevant front
brake- The ABS ECU also communicates with
the engine management ECU during traction
control operation. In severe cases of traction
loss the engine management ECU will reduce
engine power to assist with traction recovery.
On later models with traction control, the
additional solenoids in the modulator are
not used, and the traction control function
is provided solely by a reduction in engine
power.
The solenoid valves are controlled by the
ECU, which itself receives signals from the four
wheel speed sensors which monitor the speed
of rotation of each wheel. By comparing these
signals, the ECU can determine the speed
The electronic stability program (ESP) is
a further development of ABS and traction
control. Usino additional sensors to monitor
steenng wheel position, vehicle yaw rate,
acceleration and deceleration, in conjunction
^17 Anti-lock Braking and
Traction C o n t r o l s y s t e m s generai information
15.4b , . . and unclip the locking sleeve
with the ABS sensors, the ECU can intervene
under conditions of vehicle instability. Using
the signals from the various sensors, the ECU
can determine driver intent (steering wheel
position, throttle position, vehicle speed and
engine speed). From the sensor inputs from
the wheel speed sensors, yaw rate sensors
and acceleration sensors the ECU can
calculate whether the vehicle is responding
to driver input, or whether an unstable driving
situation is occuning, if Instability is detected,
the ECU wiil inten/ene by applying or releasing
the relevant front or rear brake, in conjunction
with a power reduction, until vehicle stability
returns.
The operation of the ABS, fraction control
and stability programs is entirety dependent
on electrical signals. To prevent the system
responding to any inaccurate signals, a built-in
safety circuit monitors all signals received by
the ECU. If an inaccurate signal or low battery
voltage is detected, the system is automatically
shut down, and the relevant warning light on
the instrument panel is Illuminated, to inform
the driver that the system Is not operational.
Nonnal braking is still available, however.
If a fault develops in the ABS/traction
control/ESP system, the vehicle must be taken
to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer for fault diagnosis
and repair
18 Anti-lock Braking and Traction
Control system c o m p o n e n t s removal and refitting
>
^
Note 1 : Faults on ffie ABS system can only
16.3 Handbrake warning light switch
mounting bolt (arrowed)
ia3 Pull out the locking bar (arrowed) to
disconnect the wiring harness plug from
the ECU
be diagnosed using Vauxiiali/Opel diagnostic
equipment
or compatible
alternative
equipment
Note 2: Before starting work, refer to the note
at the beginning of Section 2 concerning the
dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Hydraulic
modulator
and
ECU
1 Remove the battery and battery box as
described in Chapter 5A.
2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap and screwing It
down onto a piece of polythene.
3 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the wiring harness plug from the ECU (see
lllustralion).
4 Note and record the fitted position of the
brake pipes at the modulator, then unscrew
the union nuts and release the pipes. As a
precaution, place absorbent rags beneath the
brake pipe unions when unscrewing them.
Suitably plug or cap the disconnected unions
to prevent dirt entry and fluid loss.
5 Unscrew the retaining bolls and remove
the hydraulic modulator from the mounting
bracket.
6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the foiiowing points:
a) Tighten ffie modulator retaining bolts to
the specified torque.
b) Refit the brake pipes to their respective
locations, and tighten the union nuts to
the specified torque.
c) Ensure that the wiring is correctly routed,
and that the ECU wiring harness plug is
firmly pressed into position and secured
with the locking bar.
d) Refit the battery box and battery as
described in Chapter 5A.
e) On completion, Weed the complete
hydraulto system as descnbed in Section 2.
Ensure that the system is bled in the conect
order, to prevent air entering the modulator
retum pump.
Electronic
control
unit
^CU)
7 Remove the hydraulic modulator from the
car as described previously in this Section.
8 Undo the two retaining bolts and carefully
withdraw the ECU upwards and off the
hydraulic modulator.
9 Prior to refitting, clean and then carefully
inspect, the condition of the gasket sealing
surfaces on the ECU and hydraulic modulator
If the surfaces are in any way deformed,
damaged, or rough to the extent that a
perfect gasket seal cannot be maintained, t i e
complete modulator and ECU assembly must
be renewed.
10 Holding the ECU by the outer edges,
carefully lower it over the solenoid valves on
the modulator, keeping it square and level.
19.3a Undo the t l
Ensure that the wiring connectors correctly
engage.
11 Fit the two retaining bolts and tighten
securely
12 On completion, refitthe hydraulic modulator
as described previously in this Section.
Wheel
speed
sensors
13 The front and rear wheel speed sensors
are an integral part of the hub bearings and
cannot be separated.
14 Referto Chapter lOforfront and rearhub
blearing removal and refitting procedures.
19 V a c u u m p u m p
(diesel e n g i n e models) removal and refitting
^
^
Removal
1 Remove the plastic cover over the top of
the engine.
2 Disconnect the quick-release fitting and
detach the vacuum servo unit vacuum hose
fiom the pump (see illustration). Disconnect
the smaller vacuum hose from the outlet on
the side of the pump.
3 Undo the three mounting bolts and remove
the pump from the cylinder head/camshaft
housing (see illustrationa). Recover the
gasket.
Remting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but clean
the mating faces of the pump and cylinder
head/camshaft housing, and fit a new gasket
or O-ring as applicable. Tighten the mounting
bolts to the specified torciue.
19.3b . . . and remove the vacuum pump
from the cyllnd«- head/camshaft housing
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Section number
Electro-hydraulic power steering (EHPS| supply unit - removal and
refitting
23
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting
7
Front hub bearings - checking and renewal
3
Front lower arm - removal, overhaul and refrtting
5
FnDnt subframe - removal and refitting
6
Front suspension stnjt - removal, overhaul and refitting
4
Front swivel hub - removal and refitting
2
General infonnation
1
Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting
19
Power steering system-level check, filling and bleeding
21
Rear anti-roll bar-removal and refitting
17
Rear axle body - removal and refitting
16
Rear coil sprii^ - removal and refrtting
10
Secfion number
Rear hub bearings - checking and renewal
Rear hub carrier - removal and refitting
Rear shock absorber-removal, testing and refitting
Rear suspension auxiliary control arm - removal and refitting
Rear suspension lower control arm - removal and refitting
Rear suspension trailing arm - removal and
refitting
Rear suspension upper control arm - removal and refitting
Steering column - removal and
refitting
Steering gear assembly - removal. Inspection and refitting
Steering gear robber gaitera - renewal
Steering wheel - removal and refitting
Track rod - renewal
Track rod end - removal and
refitting
Wheel alignment and steering angles - general infonnation
8
9
15
13
12
14
11
20
22
24
18
26
25
27
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
expwience
1
Fairly easy, suitable ^
for beginner with
|S
some experience
^
Fairty (fifliciA,
suitable for competent
DIYmechEBiic
^
«
^
Difficult, suitable
for experienced DIY
mecfianic
^
3ç
Very difficult.
suitable for expert
DIY or pnafessional
Specifications
Front suspension
Type
Independent, with MacPherson struts and anti-roll bar
Rear suspension
Type
Independent multilink with coil springs, gas-filled shock absortiers and
anti-roll bar
Steering
Type
Rack and pinion with electro-hydraulic power steering (EHPS)
Front a n d rear h u b bearings
Bearing play (maximum)
Bearing radial
Bearing lateral mn-out
0.1 mm
0.04 mm
0.05 mm
ron-out
Torque wrench settings
Anti-roll bar link:'
To stmt
To anti-roll bar
Anti-roll bar to subframe*
Driveshaft retaining nut:*
Stagel
Stage 2
Stage 3
Hub bearing assembly to swivel hub:*
Stagel
Stage 2
Stage 3
Lower arm balljoint clamp bolt nut:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Lower anm fnjnt pivot bolt:"
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Lower arm rear mounting bush to lower arm:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Lower arm rear mounting bush to subframe:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Subframe:
Front engine mounting/torque link to subframe*
Rear engine mounting/torque link to subframe*
Front mounting bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Rear mounting reinforcement plates to underbody:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Hear mounting reinfon^ement plates to subframe;*
Stagel
Stage 2
Stage 3
Suspension strut piston rad nut*
Suspen^on strut to swivel hub:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Suspension strut upper mounting bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Rear suspension
Anti-roll bar clamp bolts:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Anti-roll bar link rod to hub canien'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Nm
65
65
20
150
Slacken the nut by 45"
250
100
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
30
Angle-tighten through a further 60°
Angle-tighten through a further 15°
90
Angle-tighten a further 75°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
40
Angle-tighten a further 40°
90
Angle-tighten a further 75°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
80
60
80
Angle-tighten a further 120°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
90
Angle-tighten a further 45°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
100
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
100
50
85
Angle-tighten a further 75°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
20
Angle-lighten a further 45°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
25
Angle-tighten a further 30°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
45
Angle-tighten a furtha- 60°
Angle-tighten a furthw 15°
Torque w r e n c h settings (continued)
Rear suspension (continued)
Auxiliary control arm to tiub carrier'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Auxiliary control arm to rear axie body:"
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Hutj bearing assembly to hub carrier:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Lower cCHitrol arm to hub carrier and rear axle body:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Rear axle body mounting bolts:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Stage 5
Shock absorber lower mounting bolf
Shock absorber upper mounting bolt'
Trailing ami front mounting bracket bolts:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 4
Stage 5
Trailing arm to hub carrier*
Upper control arm to hub carrier:'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Upper control ann to rear axle body:*
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Nm
150
Angle-tigtiten a further 45°
Angle-tigtiten a further 15°
90
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
60
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15"
90
Angle-tlghten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
90
Slacken bolts
90
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
150
90
90
Slacken bolts
90
Angle-tighten a further 90°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
150
150
Angle-tighten a further 45°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
90
Angle-tighten a further 60°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
Steering
EHPS supply unit:
Fluid supply pipe union
Mounting bracket to subframe
Mounting bracket to underbody:
Upper bolts
Lower bolt (subframe mounting bolt):'
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Supply unit to mounting bracket
Hydraulic fluid pipes to steering gear
Intermediate shaft to steering column'
Intennediate shaft to steering gear pinion"
Steering column mounting bolts'
Steering gear to subframe:"
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Steering wheel bolt
Track rod end to swivel hub'
Track rod inner ball|oint to steering rack
80
Angle-tighten a further 120°
Angle-tighten a further 15°
7
11
25
25
25
Roadwheels
All models
• Use new nuts/bolts.
110
30
20
22
45
Angle-tighten through a furttier 45°
Angle-tighten through a further 15°
30
35
90
2.3 On eariy models, remove the ABS
wheel speed sensor wiring plug (arrowed)
Irom the suspension strut and disconnect
the wiring connector
1
General information
The independent front suspension is of
the MacPherson strut type, incorporating
coil springs and integral telescopic shock
absorbers. The MacPherson struts are
located by transverse lower suspension amis,
which utilise rubber inner mounting bushes,
and incorporate a balljoint at the
The front swivel hubs, which carry the hub
bearings, brake calipers and disc assemblies,
are bolted to the MacPherson struts, and
connected to the lower amis via the ballioints.
A front anti-roll bar is fitted, which has link
rods with balljoints at each end to connect it
to the stRit,
Tbe rear suspension is of fully independent
multllink type, with a central axle body
(crossmember), gas-filled shock absorbers,
coil springs, trailing arms, upper and lower
transverse control arms, auxiliary transverse
control arms and an anti-roll bar. The shock
absorbers are attached at their upper ends
to the vehicle underbody and at their lower
ends to the hub caniers. The rear hub carriers
are attached to the trailing arms, upper and
lower control arms and auxiliary control arms
by means of flexible rubber bushes. The
anti-roll bar is mounted on the axle body and
is connected to the hub carriers by drop links.
The steering system is of the electrohydraulic power steering (EHPS) type.
This system utilises a conventional rackand-pinion type steering gear mounted on
the front subframe, with variable power
assistance generated by a hydraulic pump,
driven by an electric motor The degree of
power assistance available is governed by the
speed of the electric motor which is controlled
by the steering system electranic control unit.
The ECU receives input signals on steering
wheel position (from a steering angle sensor)
and roadspeed (from the ABS wheel speed
sensors) and calculates the amount of power
3 required.
Two versions of the EHPS system are used
on the Vectra: a standanj EHPS system and a
compact EHPS system. The standard EHPS
svstem has the hydraulic pump, electric
motor and hydraulic fluid reservoir assembly
remotely sited under the front wheel arch and
connected to the raok-and-pinion steering
2.4a Depress the locking tab and release
the wiring connector from the suspension
strut
2.4c . . . then hold the upper part of the
connector and twist the lower part In the
direction of the an«w
2.4d Disconnect the w
gear by hydraulic supply and return pipes.
On the compact EHPS system, the hydraulic
pump, electric motor and hydraulic fluid
reservoir are mounted above the rack-andpinion steering gear on the front subframe.
There is no definitive list of which models
have which type of steering. The only way to
tell is by the location of the fluid reservoir. If
it's visible in the engine compartment, then it's
compact EHPS. If it's not visible in the engine
compartment then it's under the wheel arch,
and it's standard EHPS.
The steering column is linked to the steering
gearbyan intermediate shaft. The intennediate
shaft has a universal Joint fitted to its upper
end, and is secured to the column by a clamp
bolt. The lower end of the intennediate shaft Is
attached to tho steering gear pinion by means
of a clamp bolt.
2
Front swivel h u b -
^-j.
removai and refitting
Note: A new driveshaft retaining nut, lower
arm ballioint clamp bolt and nut, anti-roll bar
connecting link retaining nut, brake caliper
mounting bracket bolts and a new track rod
end retaining nut will be needed for refitting.
The driveshaft outer joint splines may be a tight
fit in the hub and It Is possible that a puller/
extractor will be required to draw the hub
assembly off the dnveshaft dunng removal.
Caution: The front wheel camber setting
is controlled by the bolts securing the
hub carrier to the front suspension strut.
Before removing the bolts, mark the hub
carrier in relation to the strut accurately.
On completion, the camber setting must
be checked and adjusted by a suitablyequipped garage.
Removal
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the relevant front roadwheel,
2 On diesel engine models, undo the retaining
bolts and screws and remove the undertray
from beneath the engine.
3 On early models, remove the ABS wheel
speed sensor wiring plug from the suspension
strut bracket and disconnect the wiring
connector (see illustration).
4 On later models, depress the locking tab
and release the wiring connector from the
suspension stmt. Slide the locking bar on the
connector downward, then hold the upper
part of the connector and twist the lower part
to open the connector Disconnect the ABS
wheel speed sensor wire from the connector
and, if working on the left-hand swivel hub,
also disconnect the brake pad wear warning
indicator wire (see Illustrations).
5 Where fitted, tap off the driveshaft retaining
nut dust cap using a cold chisel or large
screwdriver (see illustration).
2.5 Where fitted, tap off the driveshaft
retaining nut dust cap
6 To prevent rotation of the wheel hub as the
driveshaft retaining nut Is slackened, make up
a holding tool and boft the tool to the wheel
hub using two wheel bolts (see Tool Tip).
7 With the holding tool in place, slacken and
remove the driveshaft retaining nut using a
socket and long bar. Where necessary, support
the socket on an axle stand to prevent it
slipping off the nut. This nut is very tight; make
sure that there is no risk of pulling the car off
the axle stands as the nut is slackened.
8 Extract the retaining clip and release the
hydraulic hose from the suspension stnjt (see
illustration). If working on the left-hand swivel
hub on early models, also release the brake
pad wear warning indicator wire fram ttie stmt
bracket.
9 Undo the two bolts securing the brake
g bracket to the swivel hub.
A tool to hold the wfieef hub stationary
whilst the dnveshaft retaining nut is
slackened can be fabricated from two
tengths of steel strip (one long, one
short; and a nut and boll; the nut and
bolt forming the pivot of a forked tool.
2.8 Extract the retaining clip and release
the hyUntuliC noSMa from the suspension
Strut
Slide the mounting bracket, complete with
brake caliper and pads off, the brake disc, and
tie it to the coil spring using wire or a cable-tie.
Note that new caliper mounting bracket bolts
will be required for refitting.
10 Undo the securing screw and remove
the brake disc from the wheel hub (see
Note that a new clamp bolt and nut will be
required for refitting.
13 Using a lever, push down on the
suspension lower arm to free the balljoint
from the swivel hub, then move the swivel
hub to one side and release the arm, taking
care not to damage the balljoint mbber boot
(see illustration). It Is advisable to place a
protective cover over the rubber boot, such as
the plastic cap from an aerosol can, suitably
cut to fit.
11 Unscrew the nut secuhng the track rad
end to the steering arm on the swivel hub,
then use a balljoint separator tool to remove
the track rod end (see illustration).
12 Unscrew the nut and remove the clamp
bolt securing the front suspension lower arm
balljoint to the swivel hub (see Illustrations).
14 The hub must now be freed from the end
of the drive^aft (see illustration). It may be
possible to pull the hub off the driveshaft,
but if the end of the driveshaft is tight in ttie
hub. temporarily refit the driveshaft retaining
nut to protect fhe driveshaft threads, ttien tap
the end of the driveshaft with a soft-faced
hammer while pulling outwards on the swivel
2.11 Unscrew the retaining nut, then use a
balljoint separator tool to remove the track
rod end from the swivel hub
2.12a Unscrew tho retaining nut
(arrowed)...
2.13 Push down the low
to free the balljoint from ttie swivel hub
2.14 Pull the swivel hub outwards then
withdraw the driveshaft from the hub
splines
hub. Alternatively, use a suitable puller to
press the driveshaft through the hub.
15 Mark the position of the suspension strut
on the swivel hub by drawing a circle around
the heads of the two retaining bolts. Note: This
Is important to maintain the camber setting.
16 Slacken and remove the two nuts and
bolts securing the suspension strut to the
swivel hub, noting that new nuts and bolts
will be required for refitting (see illustration).
Disengage the swivel hub from the stmt and
remove It from the car.
Refitting
17 Ensure that the driveshaft outer constant
velocity joint and hub splines are clean, then
slide the hub onto the driveshaft splines. Fit
the new driveshaft retaining nut, tightening it
by hand only at this stage,
18 Engage the swivel hub with the suspension
stnjt, and insert the new bolls fnsm the fnant of
the stmt so that their threads are facing to the
rear. Fit the new nuts, tightening them by hand
only at this stage,
19 Locate the lower arm ball|oint in the swivel
hub. Insert the clamp bolt from the front of
the swivel hub, so that its threads are facing
to the rear. Fit the new nut to the clamp bolt,
and tighten ft to the specified torque and
through the specified angles given in the
Specifications, using a torque wrench and
angle-tightening gauge.
20 With the hub correctly located, align the
strut-to-swivel hub bolt heads with the marks
made on the strut during removal. Tighten the
bolts to the specified tonque and through the
specified angles given in the Specifications,
using a torque wrench and angle-tightening
gauge.
21 Engage the track rod end in the swivel
hub, then fit the new retaining nut and tighten
il to the specified tonque setting,
22 Refit the brake disc and tighten its
retaining screw securely.
23 Slide the brake pads, caliper and mounting
bracket over the disc and into position on the
swivel hub. Fit the two new calipw mounting
bracket retaining bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque (see Chapter 9).
24 Reconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor
wiring connector and, where applicable, the
break pad wear warning indicator wire. Secure
the wiring in the relevant support brackets and
clips.
25 Refit the brake hydraulic hose to the
suspension strut and secure with the retaining
clip,
26 Using the method employed on removal
to prevent rotation, tighten the driveshaft
retaining nut through the stages given
in the Speciftcations. Where fitted, tap a
new driveshaft retaining nut dust cap Into
position.
27 Refit the rciadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolls
to the specified torque.
3
Front h u b bearings checking and renewal
I
Note: 777« front hub bearing and integral ABS
wheel speed sensor is a sealed unit and no
repairs are possible. If the bearing is worn
or the speed sensor Is faulty, a new bearing
assembly must be obtained.
Checking
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support It securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the roadwheel.
2 A dial test indicator (DTI) will be required to
measure the amount of play in the bearing.
Locate the DTI on the suspension strut and
zero the pnabe on the brake disc.
3 Lever the hub in and out and measure the
amount of play in the Isearing.
4 To measure the bearing lateral and radial
run-out, undo the two bolts securing the brake
caliper mounting bracket to the swivel hub.
Slide the mounting bracket, complete with
brake caliper and pads off the brake disc, and
tie it to the coll spring using wire or a cable-tie.
Note that new caliper mounting bracket bolts
will be required for refitting.
5 Undo the securing screw and remove the
brake disc from the wheel hub.
6 To check the lateral mn-out, locate the DTI
on the suspension strut and zero the probe
on the front face of the hub flange. Rotate the
hub and measure the run-out.
7 To check the radial run-out, zero the DTI
probe on the upper face of the extended
portion at the centre of the hub. Rotate the
hub and measure the run-out.
8 If the play or run-out exceeds the specified
amounts, renew ttie hub bearing as described
below.
9 If the bearing is satisfactory, refit the brake
disc and tighten its retaining screw securely.
10 Slide the brake pads, caliper and mounting
bracket over the disc and into position on the
swivel hub. Fit the two new caliper mounting
bracket retaining bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque (see Chapter 9),
11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified torque.
Renewal
Note: New hub bearing retaining bolts will be
required for refitting.
12 Remove the swivel hub as described in
Section 2.
13 Undo the three bolts securing the bearing
assembly to the swivel hub (see illustration).
14 Remove the bearing and the brake shield
from the swivel hub (see illustrations).
15 Thoroughly clean the swivel hub and
brake shield, then place the shield in position
on the swivel hub.
16 Locate the wheel bearing over the brake
shield and into the swivel hub. Position the
bearing so that the wheel speed sensor wiring
connector is towarcl the brake caliper side of
the swivel hub (ie, towards the front ot the
vehicle). Align the retaining bolt holes and fit
the three new bolts.
17 Tighten the retaining bolts pnagressively
to the specified Stage 1 tonque setting using a
torque wrench, and then through the specified
Stage 2 and Stage 3 angles, using an angle
tightening gauge.
18 Refit the swivel hub as described in Section 2.
4
Front s u s p e n s i o n s t m t removal, overhaul and refitting
^
Note: New strut-to-swivel hub boils and nuts,
strut upper mounting bolts and strut iinit rod
nut, will be required for refitting. Ideally, both
front suspension struts shouid be renewed
at the same time in order to maintain good
steering and suspension oharacteristics.
Removal
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frant
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see Jacliing and vehicle support). Remove
the front roadwheel.
2 Extract the retaining clip and release the
hydraulic hose from the suspension strut (see
illustration 2.8). If working on the left-hand
suspension strut on early models, also release
the brake pad wear warning indicator wire
from the stmt bracket.
3 On early models, unscrew the retaining
bolt and release the ABS wheel speed sensor
wiring plug support plate from the suspension
strut bracket (see illustration).
4 On later models, depress the locking tab
and release the wiring connector from the
suspension stnjt bracket (see illustration Z4a).
5 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the
anti-roll bar link rod from the strut. Use a
spanner on the special flats to hold the link
3.14a Remove the beanng ..
while the nut is being loosened (see Illustration),
6 Mark the position of the suspension strut on
the swivel hub by drawing a circle around the
heads of the two retaining bolts. Note: This is
important to maintain the camtier setting.
7 Slacken and remove the two nuts and bolts
securing the suspension strut to the swivel hub,
noting that new nuts and boits will t>e required
for refitting (see Illustration 2.16), Disengage
the top of the swivel hub fram the strjt,
8 Support the stmt beneath the front wing
then, from within the engine compartment,
unscrew the three strut upper mounting bolts
(see illustration),
9 Lower the strut and withdraw it from under
the front wing,
OveHiaul
Note 1: A spring compressor
tool will be
4.3 On early models, unscrew the retaining
Don (arroweo) ana release ine winng plug
support plate from the strut bracket
4.10 Prise out the plastic cap from tt
strut upper mounting
3.14b . , , and the brake shield trom the
swivel hub
required for this operation. Before overhaul,
mark the position or eacn component in
relationship with each other for reassembly.
Note 2: A new piston rod nut will tie required
for reassembly.
10 Using a screwdnver, prise out the
plastic cap from the upper mounting (see
illustration).
11 With the suspension strut resting on
a bench, or clamped in a vice, fit a spring
compressor tool, and compress the coil spring
to relieve the pressure on the spring seats.
Ensure that the compressor tool is securely
located on the sphng, in accondance with the
tool manufacturer's instmctions,
12 Mark the position of the spring relevant
to the top and bottom mountings, then
counter-hold the strut piston rod with an Allen
key or suitable bit, and unscrew the piston rod
nut (see illustration).
4.5 Use a spanner on the flats to hold the
IInx vmiie tne nut is oeing looseneo
4.12 Counter-hokf the strut piston rod with
an Allen key or suitable bit, and u
the piston rod nut
4.13d . . . buffer . . .
4.13e . . . and spring from the strut
13 Remove the stmt upper mounting, upper
spring seat, mbber gaita-, buffer and spring
Irom the strut (see Illustrations),
14 With the stmt assembly now completely
dismantled, examine all the components for
wear, damage or defonnation. Renew any of
the components as necessary.
15 Examine the strut for signs of fluid
leakage. Oheck the strut piston for signs of
pitting along its entire length, and check the
stmt body for signs of damage. While holding
it in an upright position, test the operation of
the strut by moving the piston through a full
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance
felt should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jeriearing
assembly (see illustration).
16 Undo the four retaining nuts and remove
the bearing unit and brake disc shield from the
hub earner (see Illustration).
17 Thoroughly clean the hub carrier, bearing
unit and brake shield mating faces, then place
the shield in position on the bearing unit.
18 Retit the bearing unit and brake shield
to the hub carrier, and screw on four new
retaining nuts.
lect the ABS wheal speed
(arrowed) from the rear ot the bearing a:
8.16 Undo the four retaining nuts (arrowed) and n
bearing unit and brake disc shield from the hub carrier
19 Tigliten the retaining nuts progressively to
the specified Stage 1 torque setting using a
torque wrench, and then through the specified
Stage 2 and Stage 3 angles, using an angle
tightening gauge.
20 Reconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor
wJrtng connector.
21 Refit the brake disc and tighten its
retaining screw securely.
22 Slide the brake pads, caliper and mounting
bracket over the disc and Into position on the
hub carrier. Fit the two new caliper mounting
bracket retaining bolts and tighten them 1o the
specified torque (see Chapter 9).
23 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to ttie specified torque.
9.3 Undo the bolt (arrow-^di s.>-unnu the
handbrake cable support brücket to the
trailing arm front mounting
9.7 Undo the four boHs (arrowed) securing
the trailing arm front mounting bracket to
the underbody
9
Rear hub c a r r i e r -
^
removal and refitting
^
Note: It is recommended that all mounting
nuts and bolls are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support It on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support].
Remove the roadwheel.
2 Disengage the handbralt
nuts and bolts are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the roadwheel.
2 If working on the left-hand lower contrai
arm, suitably support the exhaust system and
release the rubber mounting blocks at the
rear. Lower the system slightly for access to
the control arm.
3 If working on the left-hand lower contrai
arm on models with xenon headlights, undo
the retaining bolt and detach the headlight
range control linkage from the lower control
5 Undo the bolt securing the lower control arm
to the hub can^ier (see illustration 9.10c).
6 Accurately mari< the position ofthe camber
adjustment eccentric disc on the lower control
arm inner mounting (see illustration). Undo
the bolt securing the lower conttol ami to the
rear axle body and remove the control ami
6 Undo the four bolts securing the trailing ami
fnsnt mounting bracket to the underbody (see
illustration 9.7).
7 Undo the three bolts securing the trailing
arm to the hub can-ler and remove the trailing
arm from the car.
Refitting
(arrowed) on the lower oontrol arm Inner
mounting
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque and, where necessary, in the
stages given. Note that new nuts/bolts
should be used on all disturbed fittings.
b) Align the camber adjustment eccentric
disc wim the marks made on removal
when tightening the control arm inner
mounting bolt.
c) RefH the rear coll spring as described in
Section TO,
d) Have the rear wheel toe-in setting and
camber angle checked and if necessary
adjusted at the earliest opportunity.
^'.13 Rear s u s p e n s i o n
auxiitary c o n t r o l a r m i-^ remova! and refitting
fi^
^
Note: it is recommended that all mounting
nuts and bolts are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Ohock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the roadwheel.
2 Remove the rear coil spring as described in
Section 10.
3 Place a jack under the hub carrier and
just take the weight of the rear suspension
assembly.
4 Undo the bolt securing ihe auxiliary control
arm to the hub carrier (see illustration 9.10a).
6 Accurately mark rbe position of the toe-in
adjustment eccentric disc on the auxiliary
contnji arm inner mounting (see illustration).
Undo the bolt securing the auxiliary control
ami to the rear axle body and remove the
control arm from the car.
ecoentric disc
(arrowed) on the auxiliary control arm inner
mounting
b) Align the toe-in adjustment eccentric disc
with the marks made on removal when
tightening the control arm inner mounting
bolt
c) Refit the rear coil spring as described in
Section 10.
d) Have ihe rear wheel toe-in setting and
camber angle checked and If necessary
adjusted at the eariiest opportunity.
1 4 Rear s u s p e n s i o n trailing a r m
- removai and refitting
^
Note: It IS recommended that all mounting
nuis ana calts are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheeis then jack up the
rear of the oar and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the roadwheel.
2 Release the handbrake cable from the clip on
the trailing ami, then undo the bolt securing the
handbrake cable support bracket to the trailing
arm ftont mounting (see illustration 9.3). Move
the handbrake cable to wie side.
3 Unclip the ABS wheel speed sensor wiring
hamess from the trailing arm.
4 Place a jack under the hub carrier and
just take the weight of the rear suspension
assembly.
5 Unscrew the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and detach the shock absortwr
from the hub carrier.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tiearing
mind the following points;
^ Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque and. where necessary, In the
stages given. Note that new nuts/bolts
should tie used on all disturbed fittings.
8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing In
mind the following points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque and, wtiere necessary, in the
stages given. Note that new nuts/bolts
should be used on all disturbed mngs.
b) Have the rear wheel toe-in setting and
camber angle checked and if necessary
adjusted at tiie earliest opportunity
15 Rear s h o c k a b s o r b e r removal, testing and refitting
&
S
Note 1: Always renew shock absorbers In
pairs and the correct version for the model to
maintain good handling.
Note 2: It is recommended that the shock
absorber mounting boits are renewed when
refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the rciadwheel.
2 Place a jack under the hub carrier and
just take the weight of the rear suspension
assembly.
3 Unscrew the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and detach the shook absorber
frcm the hub carrier
4 Unscrew the shock absorber upper
mounting bolt and remove the shock absortjer
from the car (see illustration).
listing
5 Examine fhe shock absorber for signs of
fluid leakage or damage. Test the operation
of the strut, while holding it in an upright
position, by moving the piston thrciugh a full
strcike, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance
felt should be smooth and continuous. If
the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there
is any visible sign of wear or damage to the
stmt, renewal Is necessary. Also check the
rubber mounting bush(es) for damage and
deterioration. If the bushes are damaged or
worn, the complete shook absorber will have
to be renewed, as the mounting bushes are
not available, separately. Inspect the shanks
of the mounting bolts for signs of wear or
damage, and renew as necessary.
Refitting
15.4 Shock absorber upper mounting boH
(arrowed)
6 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, tightening
the new mounting bolts to the specified
torque.
16 Rear axle b o d y removal and refitting
Note 1: Vauxhail technicians use special jigs
to ensure that the rear axle body Is correctly
aligned. Vi/ithout the uso of these tools
it is important to note and suitably mark
the position of the axle body accurately
before removal. If necessary, refer to the
information contained in Section 6 regarding
the fabrication of a home-made aligning
tool, and adapt the principle for the rear axle
body
Note 2: It is recommended that alt mounting
nuts and bo/ls are renewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and securely support it on axle
stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove both rear the roadwheels.
2 Remove the complete exhaust system as
described in Chapter dA or 4B as applicable.
3 Disengage the handbrake inner cable
from the rear brake caliper levers, then pull
the outer cable grommet out of the caliper
brackets (see Illustrations 9.2a and 9.2b).
4 Undo the two bolts securing the brake
caliper mounting bracket to the hub carrier
on each side. Slide the mounting bracket,
complete with brake caliper and pads ofl the
brake disc, and tie it to the shock absorber
upper mounting using wire or cable-ties. Note
that new caliper mounting bracket bolts will
be required for refitting,
5 Release the handbrake cable from the
clip on each trailing arm. then undo the bolt
securing the handbrake cable support bracket
to the trailing arm front mounting, on each side
(see Illustration 9,3). Move the handbrake
cables to one side.
e Trace the ABS wheel speed sensor wiring
harness back to the wiring connector on the
underbody and disconnect the connector
Reiease the harness from the underbody clips
so that its free to be removed with the rear
axle body.
7 On models with a tyre pressure monitoring
system, undo the screws and clips and remove
the wheel arch liners on both sides. Trace the
wiring harness back to the connectors, and
disconnect the wiring connectors on each
side. Release the harness from the clips on
the undertxjdy.
8 On models with xenon headlights, undo the
retaining bolt and detach the headlight range
control linkage from the lower control arm on
the left-hand side.
9 Remove the rear coil spring on each side as
described in Section 10.
10 Unscrew the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and detach the shock absortier
from the hub carrier
11 Undo the four bolts securing the trailing
arm frant mounting bracket to the underaody
(see Illustration 9.7).
16.13a
12 Support the rear axle body with a cradle
acnass a trolley jack. Alternatively, two trolley
jacks and the help of an assistant will be
required,
13 Undo the four bolts securing the rear
axle body to the vehicle underbody (see
illustrations).
14 Slowly and carefully lower the rear axie
body to the ground. As fhe assembly is
lowered, make sure there are no cables or
wiring still attached.
15 With the rear axle body removed from the
car, if required, cany out further dismantling
to remove the attached components, with
reference to the applicable Sections of this
Chapter
Refitting
16 Reftting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points;
aj Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque and, where necessary, in the
stages given. Note that new nuts/tx>lts
should be used on all disturbed fittings.
b) fvlake sure that Ihe rearaxle body
is conectly aligned with the vehicle
underbody before fully-tightening the
mounting bolts.
17 Rear anti-roll b a r removal and refitting
^
^
Note: ft is recommended that all mounting
nuts and bolts are renewed when refitting.
Refitting
6 Align the mounting rubbers with the marks
made on the anti-roll bar prior to removal,
7 Refit the anti-roll bar to the rear axle body,
and fit the mounting clamps. Ensure that
the clamp half is correctly engaged with the
anti-roll bar rubbers, then tighten each clamp
retaining bolt, by hand only at this stage.
8 With the two clamps loosely installed, check
the position of the anti-roll bar to the marks
made on removal, then tighten the clamp bolts
to the specified torque setUng,
9 Refit the link rods to the hub carriers
using new bolts, and tighten the tiolts to the
specified torque setting,
10 Refit the rear axle body as described in
Section 16,
18 Steering Wheelremoval and refitting
A
^
^
Warning: Make sure that the
alrbag safety
recommendations
given in Chapter 12 are followed,
to prevent personal injury.
Removal
1 Remove the alrbag as described in Chapter 12.
2 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position, then lock the column in position after
removing the ignition key,
3 Disconnect the wiring harness connector for
the steering wheel switches (see Illustration).
Removal
1 Remove the rear axle body as described in
Section 16,
2 Undo the bolt and detach the anti-roll bar
link rod from the hub carrier on each side (see
3 Priorto removal ofthe anti-rail bar, mark the
position of each anti-roll bar mounting clamp
rubber.
4 Unscrew the two bolts hom each mounting
clamp, and remove the clamp. As the last
clamp is removed, support the anti-roll bar
and remove il from the rear axle body.
5 Inspect the mountmg clamp rubbers for
signs of damage and deterioration, and renew
if necessary.
18.3 Disconnectthe wiring harness
connector (arrowed) for the steering wheel
18.4 Steering wheel retaining bolt
(arrowed)
4 Unscrew the Torx retaining bolt securing
the steerinc wheel to the column (see
Ulustratlon).
5 Check that there are alignment marks
between the steering column shaft and
steering wheel (see illustration). If no marks
are visible, centre punch the wheel and
column shaft to ensure correct alignment
when refitting,
6 Grip the steenng wheel with both hands
and carefully rock it from side-to-slde to
release it from the splines on the steering
column. AS the steering wheel is being
removed, guide the wiring for the alrbag
through the aperture in the wheel, taking
care not to damage the wiring connectors
(«ee illustration).
fteritting
7 Refit the steering wheel, aligning the marks
made prior to removal. Route Ihe airbag
wlhng connectors through the steering wheel
aperture. Note: Make sure the steering wheel
centre hub locates correctly with the contact
unit on the steering column.
8 Clean the threads on the retaining bolt and
the threads in the steenng column. Coat the
retaining bolt with locking compound, then fit
the retaining bolt and tighten to the specified
torque.
fl Reconnect the wiring connector for the
steering wheel switches.
10 Release the steering lock, and refit the
airbag as described in Chapter 12.
19.4 Insert a thin rod into the lock housing
hole, press the rod to release the detent
spring, and pull out the lock cylinder
18.5 Alignment marks (anowed) between
the steering column shaft and steering
wheel
19 Ignition s w i t c h /
steering column lock removal and refitting
^
^
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
2 Remove the steering column shnauds as
described in Chapter 11.
3 Insert the ignition key into the ignition
switch/lock, and turn it to position I.
4 Insert a thin rod into the hole in the lock
housing, press the rod to release the detent
spring, and pull cut the lock cylinder using the
key (see llluBtratlon).
Refitting
5 Insert the ignition switch/lock info the lock
housing, while the key is in position I. Remove
the rod trom the lock housing.
6 Reft steering column shrouds as described
in Chapter 11, then reconnect the battery.
20 S t e e r i n g c o l u m n removal and refitting
18,6 Guide the wiring for the alrbag
through the aperture in the wheel, taking
care not to damage the wiring connectors
Removal
1 Remove the steering wheel as described in
Section 13.
2 Remove the facia footwell trim panel on the
driver's side as described in Chapter 11.
3 Remove the steering column shnauds as
described in Chapter 11.
4 Remove the steering column electronics
module as described in Chapter 12,
5 11 applicable, make sure the steering column
adjustment handle is in the locked position.
6 Using paint or similar, make alignment
marks between the steering column and
intermediate shaft, then slacken and remove
the clamp bolt securing the Intennediate shaft
to the steering column (see illustration).
Separate the Intermediate shaft from the
steering column shaft,
7 Undo the retaining bolt and disconnect the
earth cable from the column. Unscrew the
plastic retainer and release the wiring harness
from the side of the column (see illustration).
8 Where fitted, remove the clutch switch from
the pedal bracket assembly
9 Unscrewthesteeringcolumnlowerfastening
clamp bolt, and the two upper mounting boHs
(see illustrations). Withdraw the steering
column from the facia crossmember, and
remove the column fram inside the vehicle.
Refitting
Note: It Is recommended that all mounting
nuts and bolts are renewed when refitting.
10 Refrtting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the
20.6 Slacken and remove the clamp boH
(arrowed) securing the intermediate shaft
to the steering column
20.7 Unscrew ttw plastic rataiiMT
(arrowed] and release fhe wiring h a m e N
from the side of the column
torque and. where necessary, in the
stages given. Note that new nuts/bolts
sliould be used on all disturbed fittings.
b) Ensure ttiat the marts made on the
steering column and intermediate shaft
are correctly aligned.
c) Refit the steering column electronics
module as descnbed in Chapter 12.
d} Refit the steering column shrouds and
facia footwell trim panel as descritied in
Chapter 11.
el Rnfit the steenng wheel as described in
Section 18.
: 21 P o w e r steering s y s t e m level check, filling
:-,
and bleeding
^
S
Note: There is no definitive list of which models
have which type of steering. The oniy way to
tell is by the location of the fluid reservoir If
It's visible in the engine compartment, then ifs
compact EHPS. If ifs not visible in the engine
compartment then it's under the wheel arch,
and ifs standard EHPS.
Models
with
standard
EHPS
1 Firmly apply Ihe handbrake, then jack up
the front ot Ihe car and support It securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
2 Undo the retaining screws, release the clips
and remove Ihe wheel arch liner trom Ihe
wheel arch and subframe on the right-hand
side (see Illustration 6.12).
3 Check that Ihe fluid level is between the
upper MAX line and lower MIN line on the
side of the EHPS supply unit reservoir (see
illustration)4 If topptng-up is necessary, remove the filler
cap from the lop of the reservoir. Obtain a
clean funnel and a long length of flexible pipe
to tit the end of the funnel. From within the
engine compartment, insert the pipe through
the gap between the air cleaner housing and
the headlight and insert the pipe into the top
of the rosen/oir (see illustration).
5 Using power steering fluid of the specified
type (see Lubricants and fluids), fill the
reservoir up to the MAX line, by means of Ihe
funnel and tube.
6 If the system has been completely drained
and is being refilled after a repair operaiioi;
cany out the following bleeding procedure •
the system was only being topped-up. remi •-•
the tunnel and tube and refit the resen/oir filh_'
cap. Refit the wheel arch liner and roadwhet
then lower the car to the ground.
7 To bleed the system, make sure the fluid
level in the reservoir is up to fhe MAX mark
and check the level constantly dunng the
bleeding procedure.
8 Start the engine, then switch It off again
after approximately five seconds. Repeat this
procedure two more times, pausing briefly
between each stop/start and maintaining the
fluid level in the reservoir.
20.9a Unscrew the steering column lower
fastening clamp tiolt (arrowed)...
20.9b . . . and the two upp». ..,^..,...,.„
bolts (one side arrowed
9 Now start the engine again and allow it to
Idle. Turn the steering to full left lock, then full
right lock five times. Switch the engine off.
10 Recheck the fluid level In the resen/oir and
top-up if necessary. Remove the funnel and
tube and refit the reservoir filler cap,
11 Refit the wheel arch liner and roadwheel,
then lower the car to the ground,
12 It is possible that some air may still remain
In the system after bleeding but this will be
expelled when the car is driven on the road.
Models
with compact
EHPS
13 Reach down behind the engine and
unscrew the filler cap from the EHPS supply
unit reservoir (see illustration).
14 W/ipe clean the dipstick which is integral
with the cap. Refit the cap, then remove it
once more and observe the fluid level on the
dipstick. The level should be up to the MAX
mark (see illustration),
15 If topping-up is necessary, obtain a clean
funnel and a long length of flexible pipe to fit
the end of the funnel. Insert the pipe down
behind the engine and into the top of the
reservoir. Using power steering fluid of Ihe
specified type (see Lubricants and fluids), fill
the reservoir by means of the funnel and tube
until the level Is up to the MAX line on the
dipstick,
16 If the system has been completely drained
and Is being refilled after a repair operation,
carry out the bleeding procedure described
previously In paragraphs 7 to 10, It the system
was only being topped-up, remove the funnel
and tube and refit the reservoir filler cap.
21.3 Ruld level MAX and MIN lines on
the side of the standard EHPS supply unit
21.4 Insert a pipe through the gap
between the air cleaner housing and the
headlight and into the top of the reservoir
21.13 Reach down behind the engine and
I ttie filler cap from the compact
EHPS supply unit reservoir
21.14 Maximum mark (arrowed) on the
fluid level dipstick
Lift off the two washers then remove the bolts.
Note tiiat new nuts and bolts will be required
for refitting.
6 Twist the anti-roll bar upwarels, then lift the
steering gear off the subframe.
7 If a new steering gear assembly is to be
fitted, then tiie track rod ends will need to be
removed from each end of the steering track
rods (see Section 25).
Inspection
22 Steering gear assembiy removal, inspection
and refitting
Note; It is recommended tliat all mounting
nuts and bolts are lenewed when refitting.
Removal
1 Remove tiie front subframe as described in
Section 6.
2 On models with compact EHPS, remove
the EHPS supply unit and mounting bracket
as described in Section 23.
3 Disconnect the steering angle sensor wiring
connector from the steering gear. Note the
touting of the wiring harness, then release
it from the clips on the hydraulic pipes and
steering gear and move the harness to one
side.
4 Place a suitable container beneath the
hydraulic supply and return pipes on the
steering gear and be prepared for escaping
hydraulic fluid. Undo the bolt securing the
hydraulic supply and return pipe retaining
plate to the steering gear. Withdraw the
pipes fnam the steering gear and collect the
retaining plate. Collect the escaping fluid in the
container. Note that new sealing 0-rings will
be required for the hydraulic pipes for refitting.
Suitably cover or plug the disconnected
unions to prevent dirt entry.
5 Undo the nuts from the two steering gear
mounting bolts, while counter-holding the boits
from under the subframe (see illustration).
23.5 Disconnect the wiring
(anrowred) at ttie EHPS supply unH
8 Examine the steering gear assembly for
signs of wear or damage, and check that the
rack moves freely throughout the full length
of its travel, with no signs of roughness or
excessive free play between the steering
gear pinion and rack, if any problems of this
nature are noted, renewal of the steering
gear will be necessary. The only components
which can be renewed separately are the
steering gear gaiters, the track rod ends and
the track rods. Steering gear gaiter, track
rod end and track rod renewal procedures
are covered in Sections 24, 25 and 26
respectively.
Refitting
9 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, bearing in mind the following
points:
a) Renew the sealing 0-rings on the
hydraulic supply and retum pipes.
bj Tighten the steering gear mounting t>olt
nuts to the specified torque in the stages
given. Note that new nuts/bolts should be
used.
c) On models with compact EHPS, refit
the supply unit and mounting bracket as
described in Section 23.
d) Set the steering gear in the straightahead position prior to refitting the front
subframe.
e) Refit the front subframe as described in
Section 6.
fj Where applicable, fit new track rod
balljoints as described in Section 25.
g) On completion, fill and Weed the power
steering system as described in Section 21.
h) Have the front wheel toe setting checked
and if necessary adjusted at the eariiest
opportunity.
23.6 Hydraulic supply and retum pipe
connections (arrowed) on the side ot the
EHPS s u i ^ l y unit
23 Efecfro-hydraulic p o w e r
s t e e r i n g (EHPS) stjpply unit removal and refitting
^
^
Note 1: Tj^e EHPS supply unit composes
the power steering pump, electric pump
drive motor and the EHPS electronic control
unit The supply unit is a sealed component
and the individual parts cannot be removed
separately.
Note 2: If a new EHPS supply unit is to be
fitted, it will be necessary to programme the
new ECU after Installation. This worii requires
the use of dedicated Vauxhall/Opel diagnostic
equipment or a compatible altemative.
Standard
EHPS
Removal
1 The EHPS supply unit is located under
the front wheel-arch on the right-hand side,
behind the wheel aroh liner. ,
2 Fimily apply the handbrake; then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
Remove the right-hand front roadwheel.
3 On diesel engine models, undo the retaining
bolts and screws and remove the engine
undertray
4 Undo the retaining screws, release the clips
and remove the wheel arch liner from the
wheel arch and subframe on fhe right-hand
side (see illustration 6.12)
5 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
EHPS supply unit, then release the wiring
harness from the retaining clips on the
mounting bracket (see itiustration).
6 Place a suitable container beneath the
hydraulic supply and return pipes on the side
of the EHPS supply unit and be prepared for
escaping hydraulic fluid (see Illustration).
7 Wipe clean the area around the supply pipe
and return hose connections. Undo the supply
pipe union and withdraw the pipe from the
EHPS supply unit. Collect ttie escaping fluid in
the container
8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the
fluid return hose from the supply unit. Suitably
cover or plug the disconnected unions to
prevent dirt entry.
23.9 Undo ttie lower EHPS supply unit
mourning bracket retaining bolt (arrowed)
9 Undo the lower EHPS supply unit mounting
bracket retaining bolt, noting that Ihis bolt also
secures the front subframe (see illustration).
Note that a new bolt will be required for
refitting.
10 Undo the two upper supply unit mounting
bracket retaining bolts and withdraw the
supply unit and mounting bracket from under
the wheel arch.
11 If required, undo the three nuts and
remove the supply unit from the mounting
bracket.
Refitting
12 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, bearing In mind the following points:
aj Renew the sealing O-ring on the hydraulic
supply pipe if there is any sign of
deterioration.
b) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the
specified tongue and. where necessary,
in the stages given. Note that a supply
unit mounting bracket lower retaining bolt
must be used.
cl On completion, fill and bleed the power
steenng system as descnbed in Section 21.
Compact
EHPS
Removal
13 The EHPS supply unit is mounted on the
front subframe, above the steering gear
14 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).
On diesel engine models, undo the retaining
bolts and screws and remove the engine
undertray.
15 On diesel engine models, remove the fuel
fitter crash box as described In Chapter 4B16 If necessary, for improved access below
the car, remove the exhaust system as
described in Chapter 4A or 4B, as applicable,
17 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
EHPS supply unit.
IS Place a suitable container beneath the
hydraulic supply and return pipes on the
steering gear and be prepared for escaping
hydraulic fluid. Undo the bolt securing the
hydraulic supply and return pipe retaining
plate to the steering gear. Withdraw the
pipes from the steering gear and collect the
retaining plate. Collect the escaping fluid in the
container. Note that new sealing 0-rings will
be required for the hydraulic pipes for refitting.
Suitably cover or plug the disconnected
unions to prevent dirt entry.
19 Undo the three nuts securing the EHPS
supply unit to its mounting bracket. Lift the
supply unit, complete with hydraulic pipes,
and remove rt from the car On diesel engine
models, the unrt is removed frcm above; on
petrol engine models, from below.
20 If required the supply unit mounting
bracket can be removed from the subframe,
after undoing the three retaining bolts.
Refitting
21 Refitting Is a reverse of the removal
procedure, bearing in mind the following
points:
a) Renew the sealing O-rings on the
hydraulic supply and return pipes.
b) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the
specified torque.
c) On diesel engine models, refit the fuel filter
crash box as described in Chapter 4B.
d) If removed, refit the exhaust system
as described in Chapter 4A or 4B as
applicable.
e) On completion, Hll and bleed tbe power
steering system as described in Section 21.
24 Steering gear rubber gaiters
- renewal
1 Remove the track rod end as described in
Section 25.
2 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiter
on the track rod, then release the retaining
clips, and slide the gaiter oft the steering gear
housing and track rod.
3 Thoroughly clean the track rod and
the steering gear housing, clean off any
corrosion, bun-s or sharp edges which might
damage the new gaiter's sealing lips on
installation,
4 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the track
rod end, and locate rt on the steering gear
housing. Align the outer edge of the gaiter
with the mark made on the track rod prior to
removal, then secure It In position with new
retaining clips.
5 Refit the track rod end as described in
Section 25.
25 Track rod end removal and refitting
Note; A new track rod end-to-swivel hub
retaining nui will be required when refitting.
Removal
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely
on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
support). Remove the appropriate front
roadwheel.
2 If the track rod end is to be re-used, use a
scribar or similar, lo mark its relationship to
the track rod.
3 Hold the track rod arm, and unscrew the
track nxl end lockout by a quarter of a tum.
4 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
track rod end to the swivel hub, and release
the balljoint tapered shank using a universal
balljoint separator (see illustration). Discard
the nut; a new one must be used of refitting.
5 Counting the exact number of turns
necessary to do so, unscrew the track rod end
from the track rod.
6 Count the number of exposed threads
between the end of the track rod and the
J
25.4 Release the balljoint tapered shank
using a universal balljoint separator
locknut, and record this figure. If a new gaiter
Is to be fitted, unscrew the locknut from the
track rod.
7 Carefully clean the track rod end and the
track rad threads. Renew the track rod end
if there is excessive free play of the balljoint
shank, or if the shank is excessively stiff. If the
balljoint gaiter is damaged, the complete track'
rod end assembly must be renewed: it Is not
possible to obtain the gaiter separately
Refitting
S If it was removed, screw the locknut onto
the track rod threads, and position it so that
the same number of exposed threads are
visible as was noted prior to removal.
9 Screw the track rod end on to the track
rod by the number of turns noted on removal.
This should bring the track rod end to within
approximately a quarter of a turn from the
locknut, with the alignment marks that were
noted on removal.
10 Retit the track rod end balljoint shank to
the swivel hub, then tit a new retaining nut
and tighten it to the specified torque setting.
If the balljoint shank turns as the nut is being
rightened, press down on the track rod end
to force the tapered p ^ of Ihe shank into the
arm on the swivel hub.
11 Tighten the track rod end securing locknut
on the track rod while holding Ihe track rod
stationary with a second spanner on the flats
provided,
12 Refrt the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts
to the specified tonque setting.
13 Have the front wheel toe setting checked
and If necessary adjusted at the eariiest
opportunity
26 Track r o d renewal
^
Note: When refitting, a new track rod
end-to-swivel hub nut and new gaiter retaining
clips will be required. Vauxhall/Opel special
tool KfVI-6321, or a suitable equivalent, will
be required to unscrew the track rod Inner
tiallioint from the end of the steering rack.
1 Remove the track rod end as described in
Section 25,
2 Release the retaining clips, and slide the
steering gear gaiter off the end of the track
rod as descritied in Section 24.
3 If the track rod on the passenger's side is
being removed, it will be necessary to release
the clip and fold back the gaiter on fhe driver's
side also. A flat is provided on tho rack, on
the driver's side, to enable the rack to be held
stationary while the track rod is unscrewed.
4 Turn the steering on full lock, so that the
rack protrudes from the steehng gear housing
on the relevant side, slide the cover {where
fitted) off the inner balljoint,
5 Engage the help of an assistant, if
necessary, and prevent the rack from nutating
using an open-ended spanner located on the
rack flat on the driver's side. Unscrew and
remove the track rod inner balljoint fnom the
end of the steering rack using the special tool
or suitable equivalent.
6 Remove the track rod assembly, and
examine the track rod inner balljoint for
signs of slackness or tight spots. Check that
the track rod itself is straight and free from
damage. If necessary, renew the track rod; it
is also recommended that the steering gear
galter/dust cover Is renewed.
7 Screw the balljoint Into the end of the
steering rack. Tighten the track rod inner
balljoint fo the specified torque, whilst
retaining the steering rack with an open-ended
27 Wheel a l i g n m e n t
a n d steering angles general information
Definitions
1 A car's steering and suspension geometry
Is defined in four basic settings - all angles are
expressed in degrees (toe settings are also
expressed as a measurement); the steering
axis is defined as an imaginary line drawn
through the axis of the suspension strut,
extended where necessary to contact the
ground.
2 Camber Is the angle between each
naadwheel and a vertical line drawn through its
centre and tyre contact patch, when viewed
from the front or rear of fhe car. Positive
camber Is when the roadwheels are tilted
outwands ftom the vertical at the top; negative
camber is when they are tilted Inwards. Slight
adjustment of the front camber angle is
possible, by altering the position of the swivel
hub at Its attachment to the front suspension
stmt. Tbe rear camber angle can be adjusted
by altering the position of the eccentric disc
on the lower control arm inner mounting.
3 Castor is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line drawn through each
roadwheel's centre and tyre contact patch,
when viewed from the side of the car. Positive
castor is when the steering axis is tilted so that
it contacts the ground ahead of the vertical:
negative castor is when it contacts the ground
behind the vertical. The castor angle is not
adjustable.
4 Toe is the difference, viewed from above,
between lines drawn through the roadwheel
centres and the car's centre-line. 'Toe-in' is
when the roadwheels point inwarcis, towards
each other at the front, while 'toe-out' Is when
they splay outwards from each other at the
front.
5 The front wheel toe setting is adjusted
by screwing the track rod in or out of its
balljoints, to alter the effective length of the
track rod assembly. The rear wheel toe setting
can be adjusted by altering the position of
the eccentric disc on the auxiliary control arm
inner mounting.
Cliecldng
and
adjustment
6 Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to check the wheel alignment
and steering angles, and the skill required to
use it properly, the checking and adjustment
of these settings is best left to a Vauxhail/
Opel dealer or similar expert. Note that most
tyre-fitting shops now possess sophisticated
checking equipment.
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Contents
Section number
Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting
23
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment
8
Bonnet lock spring - removal and refitting
10
Bonnet release cable - removal and reftting
9
Boot lid and support stnjts - removal, refitting and adjustment
16
Boot lid lock components - removal and refitting
17
Centre console - removal and refitting
28
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment
11
Door handles and lock components - removal and refitting
13
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting
12
Door window regulator and glass - removal and refrtting
14
Extenor mirrors and associated components - removal arxJ refitting , 20
Facia panel components - removal and refitting
29
Front bumper - removal and refitting
6
General information
1
Section numlMr
Interior trim-removal and refitting
Maintenance - fcwdywork and underframe
Ivlaintenance of upholstery and carpets - general
Major body damage repair - general
Minor body damage - repair
Rear bumper - removal and refitting
Rear quarter window glass-removal and refitting
Seat belt components - removal and refitting
Seat belt tensioning mechanism - general infomiation
Seats - removal and refitting
Sunroof - general information
Tailgate and support struts - removal, refitting and adjustment
Tailgate lock components - removai and refitting
Windscreen and fixed window glass - general information
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
^
^
FaiilycHncun,
^
suitable for competent^
DIYmeclianic
«
Difncutt, suitable
^
for experienced DIY
mechanic
J
Specifications
Torque wrench settings
Front seat t«lt anchorage bolts .. ..
Front seat belt inertia reel bolt
Front seat mounting bolts
Rear seat belt anchorage bolts
Rear seat belt inertia reel bolt
Rear seat belt stalk retaining bolts..
Nm
25
20
25
35
35
35
35
35
bfll
18
15
18
26
26
26
26
26
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
27
2
3
5
4
7
15
26
25
24
22
18
19
21
1
Generaf i n f o r m a t i o n
The bodyshell is made of pressed-steel
sections, and is available in three- and
five-door Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
versions. Most components are welded
together, but some use is made of structural
adhesives; the front wings are bolted on.
The bonnet is made of aluminium, whereas
the doors, and some other vulnerable panels,
are made of zinc-coated metal. These are
further protected by being coated with an
anti-chip primer, prior to being sprayed.
Extensive use is made of plastic materials,
mainly on the Interior, but also in exterior
components. The front and rear bumpers are
Injection-moulded from a synthetic material
which is very strong and yet light. Plastic
components such as wheel arch liners are
fitted to the underside of the vehicle, to
impnave the body's resistance to conoslon.
.2
Maintenancebodywork and underframe
inu <](!n';ral condition of a vehicle's
bodv-wori4 IS the one thing that significantly
affects Its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly
after minor damage, can lead quickly to
further deterioration and costly repair bills.
If is important also to keep watch on those
parts of the vehicle not immediately visible,
for instance the underside, inside all the
wheel arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot
of water, from a hose. This will remove all
the loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arcihes and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches Is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically and this Is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a
wax-based underbody protective coating,
it is a good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to
see what minor repairs and renovations
are necessary Steam-cleaning is available
at many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to tiecome thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents avaiiabie which can be bmsh-appiied;
the dirt can then be simply hosed off. Note that
those methods should not be used on vehicles
with wax-based underbody protective coating,
or the coating will tie removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to Winter, when the underbody should
be washed down, and any damage to the
wax coating repaired. Ideally, a completely
fresh coat should be applied. It would also be
worth considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage, where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling IS usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check
that the door and ventilator opening drain
holes and pipes see completely clear, so that
water can be drained out. Brightwork should
be treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by
the use of proprietaiy glass cleaner Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
3
M a i n t e n a n c e of u p h o l s t e r y
andcarpets-
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
Of grit. If they are badly stained, remove thwn
from the vehicle for scabbing or sponging,
and make quhe sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and Interior trim panels can
be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If
they do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use
a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush
to scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams
and padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rat.
If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally. It Is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry It out properly, particularly whse
carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or electric
heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose.
4
Minor body damage repair •
Minor
scratclies
if the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch witii a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the sunounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using
a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine
layers of paint until the surface of the paint
in the scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least
two weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by robbing tiie scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to mst, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from
the bottom of the scratch with a penknife,
then apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent
the formation of rust in the future. Using a
mbber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which Is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinnere, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste In
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface
of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
arlier in tills Section.
Dents
When deep denting of the vehicle's
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There Is little
point in trying fo restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot
be reshaped fully to its original contour. It
is better to bring the level of the dent up to
a point which Is about 3 mm below the level
of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where
the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of
the dent is accessible, it can be hammered
out gently fiom behind, using a mallet with
a wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent
a large area of the bodywork from being
'belled-out'.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through fhe metal inside
the area ~ particularly in the deeper section.
TTien screw long self-tapping screws Into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protrtjding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
trim It to the approximate size and shape
required, then pull off the backing paper
(if used) and stick the tape over the hole;
it can be overlapped if the thickness of one
piece is insufficient. Burnish down the edges
of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver
or similar, to ensure that the tape Is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Filling
and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hartlener are best for this type of repair
A wide, Pexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparling a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
To complete the repair, see the Section on
(follow the maker's instmctions on the pack),
filling and res praying.
othenwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
R u s t holes or
gashes
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
Remove all paint from the affected area, paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator
and from an Inch or so of the surrounding across the surface of the filler to achieve the
'sound' bodyworii, using an abrasive pad or correct contour and to level the surface. As
a wire brush on a power drill. 11 these are not soon as a contour that approximates to the
available, a few sheets ol abrasive paper will correct one Is achieved, stop working the
paste - if you carry on too long, the paste will
do the job most effectively With the paint
become sticky and begin to 'pick-up' on the
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether applicator Continue to add thin layere of filler
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or paste at 20-minute intervals, until the level
to repair the affected area. New body panels of the filler is just proud of the surrounding
are not as expensive as most people think, bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to
fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
areas of corrosion.
abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the 40-grade production paper, and finishing with
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper Always wrap
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or the abrasive paper around a flai ruuoer corK,
a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
any other metal badly affected by con-osion. the filler will not be completely flat. During the
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-dry
order to create a slight depression for the filler paper should be periodically rinsoa in water
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the 'dent' should be
the powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which
in turn should be encircled by the finely
rust-inhibiting paint. If the back of the rusted
'leathered' edge of the good pairuworK. Hinse
area is accessible, tmat this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be the repair area with clean water, until all of the
necessary lo block the hole in some way. This dust produced by the mbbing-down operation
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre primer - this will show up any imperfections
matting. Is probably the best material to use in the surface of the filler. Repair these
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
size and shape of the hole tc be filled, then
position it in the hole so that its edges are surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
below the level of the sun-ounding bodywork. spray-and-repalr procedure until you are
It can be retained in position by several blebs satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
of filler paste around its periphery.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
Aluminium tape should be used for small
or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, allow to dry fully.
The next stage of the repair is the remove
of the paint from the damaged area, and
from an Inch or so of the sunounding 'sound'
tjodywork. Tbis is accomplished most easily by
using a wire bmsh or abrasive pad on a power
drill, although it can be done just as effectively
by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver
or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small
holes in the affected area. This will provide a
really good 'key' for the filler paste.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried
out in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced lo work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully if you are woridng indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will hdp
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywori<
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat
of primer; the thickness should be built up using
several thin layers of paint, rattier than one thick
one. Using 400-grade wet-and-dry paper, rub
down the surface of the primer until it is really
smooth. While doing this, the work area should
be thoroughly doused with water, and the
wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water.
Allow to dry before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the fop coat, again building up
the thickness by using several thin layers
of paint. Start spraying at one edge of the
repair area, and then, using a slde-to-side
motion, work until the whole repair area and
about 2 inches of the surrounding original
paintwork Is covered. Remove all masking
material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on
the final coat of paint.
Wlow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwori< renovator, or
a very tine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the naint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic
components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers
loQ bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases
major body panels), rectification of more
serious damage to such items has become
a iriaiier of either entrusting repair work to a
specialist in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair ot such damage by the
Dll" owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It Is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycartwnate.
ABS, polypropylene).
6.1 Undo the screws (arrowed) securing
the wheel arch liner to the front bumper on
ea<^ side
6.3a Pull out the centre p i n s . . .
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed In equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywori<
filler used on metal panels. The filler Is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it with
epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of
finding a suitable paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. Af
one time, the use of a universal paint was not
possible, owing to the complex range of plastics
encountered in body component applications.
Standard paints, generally speaking, will not
bond to plastic or robber satisfactorily However,
it is now possible to obtain a plasCc body parts
finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat. Full
6.5 Undo Hie four screws
securing the bumper to
6.2a Insert a screwdriuer or similar tool
into the wheel arch liner-to-bumper upper
retaining screw hole . . .
6.2b . . . and push the sliding bumper
guide rail fully forwand to its stop (shown
with bumper removed for clarity)
6.3b . . . and remove the four plastic rivets
securing the lower centre of the bumper to
the front subframe
instmctions are normally suppiieo with a kit, but
basically, the method of use is to first apply the
pre-primer to the component concerned, and
allow it to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the
primei is applied, and left to diy for about an
hour before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a pnDperty that standard paint
does not normally possess.
6.4 On diesel engine models, u
two screws each side (arrowed) securing
the engine undertray to the bumper
completely the alignment of the bodyshell,
ana tnis can oniy oe cameo out accurately
by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer, or accident repair
specialist, using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned. It is primarily dangerous as the car
will not hOTdle property, and secondly, uneven
stresses will be imposed on the steering,
suspension and possibly transmission, causing
abnormal wear or complete failure, particularly
to such items as the tyif.is.
5
M a j o r botfy d a r n a g e repair -
Whee serious damage has occurred, or large
areas need renewal due to neglect, it means tiiat
complete new panels v^ll need welding-in, and
this is best left to professionals. If the damage is
due to Impact, It will also be necessaiy to check
6.6 Pull the bumper out at the sides to
disengage it from the sliding guide rails
6
Front b u m p e r removal and refitting
if
Removal
1 Worthing under the wheel arch, undo the
four retaining screws (two on each side)
securing the wheel aroh liner to the bumper
(see illustration).
2 Using a screwdriver or similar tool inserted
into the wheel arch liner-to-bumper upper
retaining screw hole each side, push the
sliding bumper guide rail fuliy forward to its
stop (see Illustrations).
3 Release the four plastic rivets securing
the lower centre of the bumper to the front
subframe (see Illustrations).
4 On diesel engine models, unscrew the
two screws each side securing the engine
undertray to the lower sides of the bumpw
5 Undo the four screws securing the upper
section of the bumper to the crossmember
(see Illustration).
6 With ttie aid of an assistant, pull the bumper
out at the sides to disengage the bumper from
the sliding guide rails then pull the bumper
forward (see illustration).
7 Where applicable, disconnect the foglight,
exterior temperature sensor and parking
distance sensor wiring connectors, and the
headlight washer hose (see illustrations).
Carefully remove the bumper Irom the car.
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that all bumper fasteners
are securely tightened.
7
6.7a Where applicable, disconnect the
foglight...
6.7b . . . and exterior temperatu
wiring connectors
Rear b u m p e r removal and refitting
Saloon and Hatchbacli models
1 Remove the rear light cluster each side and
the rear number plate lights as described in
Chapter 12,
2 Working under the wheel arch, undo the six
retaining screws (three on each side) securing
the wheel arch liner to the bumper (see
lllustration),
3 Undo the retaining screw above the number
plate on each side (see illustration).
4 Open the two locking catches securing
the underside ol the bumper to the support
bracket (see illustration).
5 With the aid of an assistant, pull the bumper
out at the sides to disengage the support
bracket. Disengage the bumper from the peg
and guides on each side and withdraw it from
the support bracket (see il lustrations) ,
6 Detach the wiring harness clip from the
bumper, then remove the bumper from the car
(see lllusb-atlon).
7.2 Undo the screws (arrowed) secunng
the wheel arch liner to the rear bumper on
each Side
9 Remove the tnm panel from the top of the
bumper by pulling it sharply rean/jard (see
illustration).
10 Undo the two upper screws on each side
of the bumper, and the four screws in the
tailgate aperture (see Illustrations).
7.3 Undo the retaining screw (arrowed)
above the number plate on each side
11 Open the two locking catches securing
the underside of the bumper to the support
bracket (see Illustration 7.4).
12 Where fitted, unclip the four parking
sensors.
13 With the aid of an assistant, pull the
Estate models
7 Remove the rear light cluster each side and
the rear number plate lights as described in
Chapter 12.
8 Working under the wheel an;h, undo the six
retainina screws (three on each side) securing
the wheel arch liner to the bumper (see
|e the bumper from the
7.4 Open the two locking catches securing
the underside of the bumper to the support
bracket
and guides (arrowed) on each side
7.5a Pull the bumper out at the Si
disengage the support bracket.,
7.6 Detach the winng harness clip from
the bumper
7.9 Remove the trim panel from the top of
the bumper by pulling it sharply rearward
bumper out at the sides to disengage the
support bracket, and remove the bumper from
14 Refttting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that all bumper fasteners
are securely tightened.
^8
m
Bonnet removal, refitiinq
and adjusfment
4:
Remova/
1 Open the bonnet, and have an assistant
support tt.
2 Using a marker pen or paint, mark around
the hinqe positions on Ihe bonnet.
3 With the aid of ihe assistant, unscrew the
bolts securing the bonnet to the hinges on
both sides
4 Lift off the bonnet taking care not to damage
the vehicle paintwork.
7.10a Undo the two upper screws
(arrowed) on e a ^ side ot the b u m p e r . . .
8 The bonnet should close smoothly and
positively without excessive pressure, (f this is
not the case, adjustment will be required.
9 To adjust the bonnet alignment, loosen the
bonnet-to-hinge mounting bolts, and move
the bonnet on the bolts as required (the bolt
holes in the hinges are enlarged), if necessary,
the scissor-type hinge mounting bolls may
be loosened as well. Access to the hinge
retaining bolts can be gained after removing
the water deflector (see Section 23). To adjust
the bonnet front height in relation to the front
wings, adjustable rubber bump stops are
fitted to the front comers of the bonnet. These
may be screwed in or out as necessary. After
making an adjustment, the bonnet striker must
be adjusted so that the lock spring holds the
bonnet firmly against the robber bump stops.
Loosen the locknut and screw the striker in or
out as necessary.
9
Bonnet reiease c a b l e removal and refitting
T.lOb . . . and the four screws (arrowed) m
the tailgate aperture
move the handle rearward slightly to free the
detent lugs. Lift the release handle off the
mounting bracket (see illustrations).
5 Release the cable from the support clips
and brackets in the engine compartment,
then withdraw the cable through the rubber
grommet and into the passengwcomparlmenL
As an aid to refitting, fie a length of string to
the cable before removing It and leave the
string in position ready tor refitting.
Refitting
B Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tie
fhe string to the end of the cable, and use the
string to pull the cable into position. Ensure
that the cable is routed as noted before
removal, and make sure that the grommet
is correctly seated On completion, refit the
water deflector and the interior trim panels as
described in Sections 23 and 27,
10 B o n n e t loctt s p r i n g removal and refitting
Refitting
5 Align the mariwed) securing tt
door check strap to the body
spring leg from the front cnossmember. slide
the olher end of the spring off the release cable
and remove the spring from the crossmember
(see illusb'atlons).
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal ot removal.
^11 Doorf:.
removal, refitting
and adjustment
Removal
1 Open the door and disconnect the wiring
connector which Is fitted to Ihe front edge of
the door (see illustration).
2 Undo the bolt securing the door check strap
to the vehicle body (see Illustration),
3 Undo the grub screw from the upper and
lower hinge (see Illustration).
4 With the aid of an assistant, lift the door
11.3 Undo the grub screw (arrowed) from
the upper and lower hinge
11.7 Door striker retaining screws
(arrowed)
and disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustrations).
3 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool,
carefully prise the door grab handle plastic
cover away trom the handle at the top.
Disengage the lower retaining lug from
the door panel and remove tho cover (sea
illustrations).
12.3a Prise the door grab handle plastic
cover away from the handle at the top . . .
12.3b . . . then disengage the lowor
retaining lug (arrowed)
upwarcl and off the hinge pins.
Refitting
and
adjustment
5 Refit the door using the reverse of the
removal procedure, then close the door and
check that it fits con-ectly in its aperture, with
equal gaps at all points between it and the
surnnunding bodywork.
6 If adjustment is required, slacken the bolts
securing the hinges to the door and reposition
the door as required. Securely tighten the
bolts after completing the adjustment.
7 The striker alignment should be checked
after either the door or Ihe lock has been
disturtjed. To adjust a striker, slacken its
screws, reposition it and securely tighten fhe
screws (see illustration).
-.12 Door innertrim panel -
•g;^
removal and refitting
Front door
Removal
1 Open the door window.
2 If working on the driver's door, carefully
prise out the control switch assembly
lock operating cable retainer. Slide the outer
cable to the rear and disengage the inner cable
end from the interior handle (see HlustratlonE^.
8 If working on the passenger's door,
disconnect the wiring connector from the
window oontrol switch.
Refitting
9 Refitting is a revereal of removal. If working
on the driver's door, make sure the control
switch wiring is pulled tiinaugh the aperture in
the trim panel as the panel Is fitted.
12.4 Undo thfl two screws (now exposed)
12.5 Undo the three screws (arrowed)
securing the lower edge of Ihe tnm panel
to the door
Rear
door
Removal
5 Undo the three screws securing the lower edge
of the trim panel to the door (see illustration}.
6 Using a wide-bladed screwdriver or removal
12.7a Lift the front edge (arrowed) of the
lock operating cable retainer...
tool, carefully prise the bottom and sides of the
panel away from the door to release the internal
clips (see illustration). Lift the panel upward to
release it from the window aperture.
7 Oncethepanellstree.ieachbehindaid,using
a anall screwdriver lift the front edge of 8ie door
10 Open the door window,
11 On Hatchback and Estate models, using a
plastc wedge or similar tool, carefully prise the
triangular panel away from the door to release
the three retaining clips (see Illustration).
12 Where a manual window regulator is fitted,
locate a cloth rag between the handle and the
trim panel and pull It to one side to release
the spring clip. Remove the handle from the
splined shaft and refit the spring clip to the
handle (see illustrations),
13 Using a plastic wedge or simile tool,
carefully prise the door grab handle plastic
cover away from the handle at the top.
Disengage the lower retaining lug from
the door panel and remove the cover (see
illustrations 12.3a and 12.3b).
14 Undo the two screws now exposed after
removal of the grab handle plastic cover (see
illustration 12.4).
15 Undo the two screws securing the lower edge
of tfie trim panel to the door (see illustration).
12.7b . . . s l i d e the outer cable to the rear
and disengage the Inner cable end from
the Interior handle
12.11 Prise the triangular panel away from
the door to release the retaining dips Hatchback and Estate models
12.12a Where a manual regulator is fitted,
use a cloth rag to release the handle
spring Clip . . .
12.12b . . . r e m o v e the handle from the
splined s h a f t . . .
12.12c . . . and refit the spring d i p to the
handle
12.15 Undo Ihe two screws (arrowed)
securing the lower edge ol the trim panel
t o the door
12.6 Prise the bottom and sides of the
panel away from the door to release the
internal clips
4 Undo the two screws now exposed after
removal of the grab handle plastic cover (see
16 Using a wide-bladed screwdriver or
removal tool, carefully prise the bottom and
sides ot the panel away fram door to release
the internal clips. Uft the panel upward to
release it from the window aperture (see
Illustration).
17 Once fhe panel is free, reach behind, and
using a small screwdriver, lift the front edge of
the door lock operating cable retainer Slide
the outer cable to the rear and disengage the
Inner cable end from the interior handle (see
Illustrations 12.7a and 12.7b).
18 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
window control switch and tweeter speaker,
where applicable.
19 Disconnect the interior lock button
operating rod from the bellcrank. and remove
the panel from the door
Refitting
20 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
7 Refit the fixed part of the handle with the
lock cylinder to the door.
8 Hold the exterior handle and turn the handle
locking screw clockwise to retain the handle.
9 Check the operation of the handle then refit
the blanking cap to the edge of fhe door.
Rear
door
exterior
handle
Removal
12.16 Prise the bottom and sides of the
panel away from door to release the
internal clips
frame and remove the handle from the door
(see Illustration).
Refitting
6 Engage the handle front pivot with the frame
and move the handle track into position.
10 Open the door and CEtfefully prise out the
blanking cap from the rear edge of the door lo
gain access to the handle locking screw (see
Illustrations).
11 Pull the exterior door handle outwards
and hold it in that position. With the exterior
door handle held in the open position, tum the
handle locking screw anti-clockwise until It
reaches its stop (see itluslration). The exterior
door handle should now be fixed in the open
position.
¿13 D o o r h a n d l e s
a n d locH c o m p o n e n t s y
removal and refitting
Door
Interior
liandle
1 The door interior handle is an integral part
of the door inner trim panel and cannot be
Individually removed. If there are any problems
with the interior handle, a new inner trim panel
will be required.
Front
door
exterior
handle
Removal
2 Open the door and carefully pnse out the
blanking cap from tfie rear edge of the door to
gain access to the handle locking screw (see
fllustratlons).
3 Pull the exterior door handle outwards
and hold it in that position. With the exterior
door handle held in the open position, turn
the handle locking screw anti-clockwise until
it reaches its stop. The exterior door handle
should now tie fixed in the open position.
4 Withdraw the fixed part of the handle,
containing the lock cylinder, from the door
fi Slide the exterior door handle to the rear,
disengage the front pivot from the handle
edge o l t h e d o o r . . ,
13.4 Withdraw the fixed part of ttie handle,
containing the lock cylinder, from the door
13.10b . . . to gain access to ttie handle
locking screw (arrowed)
13.5 Slide the handle to t h - .
disengage the front pivot fron^ ihi:
the handle
13.11 Wltti the exterior handle held open,
turn the locking screw anti-clockwise until
It reaches its slop
16 Hold the exterior handle and tum the handle
locking screw clockwise to retain fhe handle.
17 Check the operation of the handle then
refit the blanking cap to the edge of the door
Front
door
lock
cylinder
Removal
18 Remove tiie exterior handle as described
previously in this Section.
19 Unclipthetrimcapandremovethecapfrom
the lock c^lnder housing (see illustration).
20 The lock cylinder body is an integral part
of the housing and no further dismantling is
Refitting
21 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
13.25a Undo ine screws (arrowed) and
Witiidraw the loudspeaker . . .
12 Withdraw the fixed part of Ihe handle from
the door (see illustration).
13 Slide the exterior door handle to the rear,
disengage the front pivot from the handle
frame and remove the handle from the door
(see Illustration 13.5).
13.25b . . . disconnect the wiring
connector and undip the wriring from the
guide (anx>wed)
Refitting
14 Engage the handle front pivot with the
frame and move the handle back into posiHoo.
15 Refit the fixed part of the handle to the
door.
13.2eb . . . putì out the locking bar and
disconnect the wiring connector
13.27 Push out the dips securing the
wiring harness to the door
13.28 Cwefully peel back the protective
plastic sheet and remove the sheet from
the door
Front door exterior
handle
frame
Note: A pop-rivet gun and suitable livets will
be required wtien refitting. Vie rivets should be
approximately 4.8 mm in diameter and 11 mm
in length.
Removal
22 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
23 Remove the exterior handle as descritied
previously in this Section.
24 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
25 Undo the three screws securing the
loudspeaker to the door. Withdraw the
speaker and disconnect the wiring connector
Unclip the wiring fnsm the guide and remove
the speaker (see illustrations).
26 Undo the three screws securing the door
electronics module to the door. Pull out the
locking bar, disconnect the wiring connector
'etherr
andre
27 Reach in through the loudspeaker aperture
and push out the clips securing the wiring
hamess to the door (see Illustration).
28 Carefully peel back the pnateotive plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see illusfa^tion).
29 Using an 8.5 mm drill bit, carefully drill off
the heads and remove ttie two rivets securing
the window rear guide rail to the door, taking
great care not to damage the door panel (see
illustrations).
30 Disengage the top of the guide rail fnsm
13.298 Drill out the upper r i v e t . . .
13.30b . . . then remove the guide raii
through the door aperturs
through the door aperture
the window lifting ciiannel by moving tt
rearward, and remove the guide rail through
the door aperture (see illustrations).
31 Undo the two screws securing the security
cover to the exterior handle frame and door
locl<, and remove the cover through the door
aperture (see illustrations).
32 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the lock operating rod from the lever on the
exterior handle frame (see i Hustration J,
33 Slacken the exterior handle frame front
retaining screw approximately five turns. Slide
the handle frame forward to release the rear
locating lugs, disengage the lock cylinder
operating rod and remove the frame through
the door aperture (see illustrations).
position in the door. Tighten the front retaining
13.32 Release the retaining clip (arrowed)
and disconnect me IOCK operating roa
from the lever
41 Refit the door electronics module,
securely tighten the three retaining screws
and reconnect the wiring connector.
42 Reconnect the wiring to the loudspeaker,
position the speaker in the door and secure
with the three screws,
43 Refit the door inner trim panel as described
in Section 12.
44 Refit the exterior handle as described
previously in this Section, ttien reconnect the
battery negative temiinai.
Refitting
36 Engage the lock operating rod with the
lever on the exterior handle frame and push the
retaining clip back Into position on the rod.
37 Refit the security cover and secure with
ttie two screws.
38 Engage the top of the window guide rail
with the lifting channel and position ttie guide
rail in the door. Secure the guide rail with new
pop rivets (see Iltustration).
39 Refit the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring It Is firmly stuck with no air
bubbles. If the sheet was damaged during
removal It should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the correct size and
shape using the old sheet as a template. The
new sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive.
35 Connect the lock cylinder operating
rod, then place the exterior handle frame m
40 Refit ttie wiring harness clips to the door
ensunng they are finnly attarfied.
45 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting tfie battery in the
Reference Chapter).
46 Rwnove the exterior handle as described
previously in this Section.
47 RemovH the door inner tnm panel as
.n 12.
descnbed ir
13.33a Slacken ttie exterior handle
frame frwit retaining screw (arrowed)
13.33b . . . s l i d e the frame forward to
release ttie rear lugs, dis»igage the iock
cylinder operating rod (arrowed)
13.38 Secure ttie window guide rail with
new pop rh^ets
34 Clean out the remains of the old rivets
from inside the door.
Rear
door
extenor
handle
frame
Removal
1 3 A Undo the three screws (atrowed)
securing the \ock to the door
1156 Lffl the locking bar M K i d
13.57a Lower the lock and bring the
interior lock button and rod in through the
hole pnavlded...
in the door and tighten the front retaining
screw securely
51 Refit the rear door lock as described later
in this Section.
52 Retit the door inner trim panel as described
in Section 12,
53 Refit the exterior handle as described
previously in this Section, then reconnect the
battery negative terminal.
Front
13.57b . . . then remove the lock assembly
through the upper door aperture
48 Remove the rear door look as described
later in this Section.
49 Slacken the exterior handle frame tront
retaining screw approximately five turns. Slide
the handle frame forward to release the rear
13.58 If required, disconnect the operating
cables from the lock linkage and bracket
locating lugs and remove the frame through
the door aperture (see Illustrations 13.33a
and 13.33b),
Refitting
50 Place the exterior handle frame in position
door
lock
Removal
54 Remove the front door exterior handle
frame as described earlier in this Section.
55 Undo the three screws securing the lock
to the door (see Illustration),
56 Withdraw the lock from its location, then
lift the locking bar and disconnect the wiring
57 Lower the lock assembly down into the
door, bringing the Interior lock button and nxl
in through the hole pravided. Now remove
the lock assembly through the upper door
aperture (see Illustrations).
58 If required, disconnect the operating
cables from the lock linkage and bracket (see
illustration)
Refitting
59 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Rear
13.62b . . . and lower screw securing the
window roar guide rail to the door
door
lock
Removal - Hatchback models
60 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
61 Carefully peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet trom the door
(see illustration).
62 Undo the upper and lower screws securing
the window rear guide rail to the door (see
illustratlons)63 Pull the rubber window channel out of the
guide rail, then remove the guide rail through
the door aperture (see Illustrations).
64 Undo the screw securing the door lock
operating cable guide to the door, then
disconnect the inner cable from the bellcrank
13.61 Carefully peel baok the protective
plastic sheet and remove the sheet from
the door
13.63a Pull the njbber window channel out
of the guide r a i l . . .
65 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the lock operating rod from the lever on the
exterior handle frame (see Illustration 13.32),
13.63b . . . then remove the guide rali
through the door aperture
13.64 Undo the
le lock operating cable guide to the door
66 Undo the three screws securing the locl<
to ttie door (see illustration 13.55).
67 Withdraw the locl< from its location, then
lift the locking bar and disconnect the wiring
connector (see illustration13.56). Uncllp the
wiring hamess fram the lock tMdy.
68 Remove the lock assembly through the
upper door aperture.
69 If required, disconnect the operating
cables fram the lock linkage and bracket (see
illustration 13.58).
81 Remove the door sealing weatherstrip
from the top and rear side of the door.
82 Lift the fixed window glass upwand and
remove it reanwards fram the door
83 Undo the screw securing ttie window rear
guide rail to ttie door (see illustration 13.62a).
Slide the guide rail down to release it from its
upper locafion, then remove it upwards and
out from the outside of the door
84 Undo the screw securing the door iock
operating cable guide to the door, then
disconnect the inner cable from the bellcrank
(see illustratiwi 13.64).
85 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the lock operating rod from the lever on the
exterior handle frame (see illusti-ation 13.32).
86 Undo the three screws securing the lock
to the door (see illustration 13.55).
87 Wittidraw the lock from its location, then
lift the locking bar and disconnect the wiring
nnector (see illustration 13.56). Uncllp the
wiring harness from the lock body.
88 Remove the lock assembly through the
upper door aperture.
89 If required, disconnect the operating
cables fram the lock linkage and bracket (see
illustration 13.58).
Refitting - Hatchback models
70 If removed, reconnect the operating
cables to the lock linkage and bracket.
71 Insert the lock assembly into the door and
reconnect the wiring connector. Secure the
wiring harness to the lock body.
72 Position the lock assembly i
refit the three retaining screws and tighten
securely.
73 Engage the lock operating rod with the
lever on the exterior handle frame, and push
the retaining clip back into position on the
rod.
74 Connect the lock operating cable to the
bellcrank, then secure the cable guide with
the reigning screw.
75 Locate the guide rail in position in the
door and refit the rubber window channel to
the guide rail. Secure the guide rail with the
upper and lower retaining screws.
76 Refil the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air
bubbles. If the sheet was damaged during
removal it should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the correct size and
shape using the old sheet as a template. The
new sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive.
77 Refitthedoorinnertrimpanelasdescritied
In Section 12.
Removal - Saloon and Estate models
78 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
79 Carefully peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see illustration 13.61).
80 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool, tap
up the window outer waist seal from the door
aperture. Lift the seal up and remove it from
the door (see Illustration)
Refitting - Saloon and Estate models
90 If removed, reconnect the operating
cables to the lock linkage and bracket.
91 Insert the lock assembly into ttie door and
reconnect the wiring connector. Secure the
wiring harness to the lock body.
92 Position the lock assembly in Its location,
refit the three retaining screws and tighten
securely.
93 Engage the lock operating rod with the
lever on the exterior handle frame, and push
the retaining clip back into position on the rod.
94 Connect the lock operating cable to the
bellcrank, then secure the cable guide with
the retaining screw.
95 Locate the window rear guide rail in
position in the door and engage its upper
mounting location. Secure the guide rail with
the retaining screw.
96 Place the fixed window glass in position in
the door
97 Refit the door sealing weathersttip to the
top and rear side of the door.
98 Refit the window outer waist seal to the
13.80 Tap up the window outer waist seal
from the door aperture, ttien lift the seal up
and remove it from the door
door aperture, ensuring that the retaining clips
securely engage.
99 Refit the protective plastic sheet to tiie door
ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air bubbles.
If the sheet was damaged during removal it
should be renewed. This entails cutting a new
sheet to the conect size and shape using the
old sheet as a template. The new sheet can then
be attached to the door with fresh adhesive.
100 Refil the door mnor trim panel as
described in Section 12.
14 Door w i n d o w
regulator a n d glass removal and refitting
Front
door
window
^
3J
reguiator
Note: A pop-rivet gun and suitable rivets will
be required when refitting. The rivets should be
approximately 4.8 mm in diameter and 11 mm
Removal
1 Remove the door inner tnm panel as
described in Section 12,
2 Open ttie window so ttiat it is approximately
50 mm downwarel from the closed position.
Using adhesive tape over fhe top of the door
frame, retain the window in this position,
3 Undo the three screws securing the loudspeaker to the door Withdraw ttie speaker and
disconnect the wiring connector. Unclip the
wiring from the guide and remove the speaker
(see lllusti^tlons 13.25a and 13.25b).
4 Undo the three screws securing the door
electronics module to the door. Pull out the
locking bar, disconnect the wiring connector and
remove the module (see lllusti'ations 13.26a
and 13.26b).
5 Reach In through the loudspeaker aperture
and push out the clips securing the wiring
harness to the door (see illustratkin 13.27).
6 Carehilly peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see illustration 13.28).
7 Using an 8.5 mm drill blL carefully drill off
ttie heads and remove the two rivets securing
the window rear guide rail to the door faking
great care not to damage the door panel (see
Illustrations 13.29a and 13.29b).
8 Disengage the top of the guide rail from the
the heads and remove the six rivets securing the
window regulator to the door taking great care
not to damage the door panel (see illustration).
13 Lift the regulator up to disengage the front
locating dowel, slide it sideways to disengage
the regulator arm Irom the window guide
channel, then remove the regulator through
the door aperture (see illustrations).
14 Clean out the remains of the old rivets
from inside the door.
14.11 Pull out the locking bar and
disconnect the window regulator wiring
connector
window lifting channel by moving it rearward,
and remove the guide rail through the door
aperture (see illustrations 13.30a and 13.30b).
9 Undo the screw secunna the regulator front
lifting arm to the window lift channel (see
Uuslratlon).
14.12 Drill out the rivets (anvwed)
securing the window regulator to the door
10 Unclip the wiring harness support panel
from the base of the door (see Illustration).
11 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect
the window regulator wirina connector (see
illustration),
12 Using an 3.5 mm drill bit. carefully drill off
Refitting
15 Engage the regulator arm wi«i the window
guide channel, then locate the regulator
dowel In the slot in the door panel. Secure the
regulator with new pop rivets.
16 Reconnect the regulator wiring connector,
then clip the winng harness support panel
back into position.
17 Refit and tighten the screw securing the
regulator front lifting arm lo the window lift
channel.
18 Engage the top of the window guide rail
with the lifting channel and position the guide
rail in the door. Secure the guide rail with new
pop rivets (see illustration 13.38).
IS Refit the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring It is finnly stuck with no air
bubbles. If the sheet was damaged during
removal it should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the correct size and
shape using the oW sheet as a template. TTie
new Sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive.
20 Refit the wiring harness clips to the door
ensuring they are firmly attached.
21 Refit the door electronics module,
securely tighten the three retaining screws
and reconnect the wiring connector,
22 Reconnect the wiring to the loudspeaker,
position the speaker in the door and secure
with the three screws.
23 Remove the adhesive tape used to retain
the window, then refit the door innertrim panel
as described in Section 12,
Rear
door
window
regulator
Note: A pop-rivet gun and suitable rivets will
be required when refitting. Therivetsshould be
approximately 4.8 mm In diameter and 1' mm
in length.
Removal
f4.13c . . . then remove the regulator
through the door aperture
14.27 Position the window so that the
window fixing clip is accessible through
the small opening (arrowed) in the door
24 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
25 Carefully peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see Illustration 13.61).
26 Undo the screw securing the door lock
operating cable guide to the door, then
disconnect the inner cable fn>m the t>ellcrank
(see illustration 13.64).
27 Position the window in the assembly
position so that the window fixing clip is
accessible through the small opening in
the door (see illustration). On models with
manually-operated windows, temporarily
refit the regulator handle to reposition the
window. On models with electric windows.
14.28a Push tho tool through the centre of
the two-part window fixing clip . . .
It will be necessary to remove the window
control switch 1mm the door trim panel and
tempwanly reconnect the switch wiring.
28 Obtain a scribe or similar pointed tool with
a 4.0 mm shaft diameter. Push the tool through
the centre of the two-part window fixing dip to
expand the Internal locking lugs and separate
the clip (see Illustrations). Disengage the
window from the regulator lifting block and
recover the two parts of the fixing clip.
29 Slide the window to the fully closed position.
Using adhesive tape over the top of. the door
frame, retain the window in this position.
30 On models with electric windows, pull out
the locking bar and disconnect the window
regulator wiring connector.
31 Uang an 8.5 mm drill bit. carefuily drill off
the heads and remove the two rivets (electric
windows) or five rivets (manual windows)
securing the window regulator to the door,
taking great care not to damage the door
panel (see illu strati on). On models with
eleoWc windows, also undo the retaining txilt
located just in front of the regulator motor.
32 Push the regulator into the door, turn it
clockwise and manipulate it out through the
door aperture (see illustration).
33 Clean out the remains of the old rivets
from Inside the door.
Refitting
34 Manipulate the regulator back into position
in the door, then secure the regulator with new
pop rivets (see illustration).
35 On models with electric windows, refit the
additional motor retaining bolt and reconnect
the wiring connector.
36 Reposition the regulator in the assembly
position to provide access for the window
fixing clip.
37 Refit tiie two parts of the fixing clip to the
window, remove the tape retaining the window
In position and slide the windowdown and into
engagement with the regulatw lifting block.
38 Connect the lock operating cable to the
beilcrank, then secure the cable guide with
the retaining screw.
39 Refit the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air
bubbles, if the sheet was damaged during
removal it should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the correct size and
shape using ihe old sheet as a template. The
. . . to expand the internal locking
lugs (shown with clip removed)...
14.2SC . . . and separate the clip
14.31 Drill out the rive
securing the window regulator to the door
new sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive.
40 Refit the door Inner trim panel as described
in Section 12.
Ftear
Front
Removal - H a t c h b a c k m o d e l s
door
window
glass
Removal
41 Remove the regulator as previously
described in this Section.
42 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool, tap
up the window outer waist seal from the door
aperture. Lift the seal up and remove it from
the door (see illustration).
43 Tilt the window glass down at the front,
then carefully lift It upwards and remove it
from the outside of the door.
Refitting
44 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Position
the window glass so tiiat It is approximately
50 mm downwand from the closed position.
Using adhesive tape over the top of tiie door
14.32 Manipulate the regulator out
through the door aperture
frame, retain the window in this position during
the remainder of refitting.
door
window
glass
45 Remove ihe door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
46 Carefully peel back fhe protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see Illustration 13.61).
47 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool, tap
up the window outer waist seal from the door
aperture. Lift the seal up and remove it from
the door (see lllusbation 13.80).
48 Undothe upper and lower screws securing
the window rear guide rail to the door (see
Illustrations 13.62a and 13.62b).
49 Pull the rubber window channel out of the
guide rail, then remove the guide rail thnsugh
the door aperture (see illustrations 13.63a
and 13.63b).
50 Release the window glass from the
regulator as described previously in paragraphs 27 and 23.
61 Move ttie window and regulatorto the fully
open position,
52 Pull the njbber window channel out of the
triangular panel at the rear of the door, then
carefully lift the window glass upwards and
remove It from the outside of the door.
Refitting - H a t c h b a c k m o d e l s
53 Position the window regulator in ths
assembly position as described previously in
paragraph 27,
54 Refit the two pans of the fixing clip to the
window, place the window in the door and
slide it down and into engagement with the
regulator lifting block.
55 Refit the rubber window channel to the
triangular panel at the rear of the door.
56 Locate the guide rail in position in the
door and refit the rubber window channel to
the guide rail. Secure the guide rail with the
upper and lower retaining screws.
57 Refit the window outer waist seal to the
door aperture, ensuring that the retaining clips
securely engage.
58 Refit the protective plastic sheet to the door
ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air bubbles.
It the sheet was damaged during removal it
should be renewed. This entails cutting a new
sheet to the conect size and shape using the
Old sheet as a template. The new sheet can then
be attached to the door with f r e ^ adhesive.
59 Refit the door inner trim panel as described
in Section 12.
R e m o v a l - Saloon a n d Estate m o d e l s
60 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
61 Carefully peel back the protective plastic
sheet and remove the sheet from the door
(see lltusbiition 13.61),
62 Using a plastic wedge or similar tool, tap
up the window outer waist seal from the door
aperture. Lift the seal up and remove it from
the door {see illustration 13.80),
63 Remove the door sealing weatherstrip
from the top and rear side of the door.
64 Lift the fixed window glass Upward and
remove it rean^ards from the door
65 Undo the scrmv securing the window rear
gi;i I • - --•
:i-'->\ (saeillustratio
Slide the guide rail down to release it from its
upper location, then remove it upwards and
out from the outside of the door
66 Release the window glass trom the
regulator as described previously in paragraphs 27 and 28.
67 Move Ihe window and regulator to the fully
open position.
68 Carefully lift the window glass upwanls
and remove it from the outside of the door
Refitting - Saloon a n d Estate m o d e l s
69 Position the window regulator in the
assembly position as described previously in
paragraph 27.
70 Refrt the two parts of the fixing clip to the
window, place the window in the door and
slide It down and into engagement with the
regulator lifting block,
71 Locate the window rear guide rail in
position in the door and engage its upper
mounting location. Secure the guide rail with
the retaining screw.
72 Place the fixed window glass in position in
the door.
73 Refit the door sealing weatherstrip to the
top and mar side of the door.
74 Refit the window outer waist seal to the
door aperture, ensuring that the retaining clips
securely engage,
75 Refit the protective plastic sheet to the
door ensuring it is firmly stuck with no air
bubbles. If the sheet was damaged during
removal it should be renewed. This entails
cutting a new sheet to the con-ect size and
shape using the old sheet as a template. The
new sheet can then be attached to the door
with fresh adhesive,
76 Refitthedoorinnertrimpanelasdescribed
in Section 12,
15 Rear quarter w i n d o w glass removal and refitting
Refitting
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, using n<
plastic retaining nuts,
16 B o o t lid a n d s u p p o r t s t r u t s removai, refitting
and adjustment
^
'
Removal
1 Open the boot lid, and have an assistant
support it,
2 Disconnect the wiring at the connector,
3 Using a pencil or marker pen, mark anaund
the hinges on the boot lid as a guide for
refitting4 Using a screwdriver prise out the retaining
spring clips and disconnect the upper ends of
the support stmts from the boot lid.
5 Unscrew the mounting bolts then lift the
boot lid trom the hinges.
6 The hinges can be removed if required by
unbolting the hinges from the body.
Refitting a n d a d j u s t m e n t
7 Refitting is a reversal ct removal, but make
sure that the hinges are positioned as noted
on removal and tighten the mounting bolts
securely. With the boot lid closed, check that It
is positioned centrally within the body aperture.
If adjustment is necessary, loosen the boot IW
mounting bolts and/or hinge mounting bolts
and reposition the boot lid, then retighten the
bolts. Check that the striker enters the lock
centrally, and if necessary adjust the striker
position by loosening the mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts on completion.
Support
struts
Removal
Removal
1 Remove the relevant inner trim panels for
access to the rear quarter window glass wrth
reference to Section 27.
2 Unscrew the plastic retaining nuts and
the window glass fmm the body. On
8 Open the boot lid, and have an assistant
support it,
9 Using a screwdriver prise out the retaining
spring clips and disconnect the struts from
the boot lid and body Note which way round
the strut is fitted.
Refitting
10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
17 B o o t lid l o c k c o m p o n e n t s removal and refitting
Lock
J\
-
assembly
Removal
d the retaining legs of the lock
tnm p a n e l . . .
the panel from the
1 Open the boot lid and r
e the trim
panel. Use a forited tool or removal tool to
e out the thirteen retaining clips, and the
centre pins of the four plastic rivets.
2 Spread the retaining legs of the lock trim
17.3 Disconnectthe lock wiring connector
17.4retaining
Undo thescrews
tt
(arrowed)
17.10b . . . f r e e ttie lock cyiinder ftom
Its location and disconnect the wiring
connector
3 the
:1 fro
B lock
(see illustrations),
3 Disconnect the lock wiring connector (see
Illustration).
4 Undo the three lock assembly retaining
screws (see Illustration).
5 Using a small screwdriver, depress the
retaining lugs on each side of the lock
extension (see illustration).
6 Lift the lock assembly up and withdraw it
from the inside (see illustration).
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
that when closed the boot lid lock engages
the lock striker centrally. If necessary loosen
the bolts and adjust the position of the strike,
then tighten the bolts.
Lock
cylinder
Removal
16 Tailgate and support struts removal, refitting
and adjustment
Tailgate
Removal
1 open the tailgate, release the wiring harness
grranmet, then depress the locking catch and
disconnect the tailgate wiring connector on
each side (see illustration).
2 Have an assistant support the tailgate, ttien
disconnect the tops of the support struts
by prising out the spring clips with a small
screwdriver. Lower the struts to the body
3 Drive out the tailgate hinge pins from
outside to inside with a suitable drift, while
the assistant supports the tailgate (see
Illustration). Withdraw the tailgate from the
nodv.
Refitting
4 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, but apply
a little grease to the pivot pins, and check
that when closed the tailgate Is positioned
centrally within the body aperture and flush
with tne surrounding bodywork. If necessary,
adjust the position of the robber supports so
that the tailgate is flush with the surrounding
bodywork. After making adjustments, check
that the sttiker enters the lock centrally and if
necessary loosen the striker bolts to reposition
it. Tighten the bolts on completion.
Support
struts
Removal
5 Open the tailgate and note which way round
the stmts are fitted. Have an assistant support
the tailgate in its open position.
6 Using a small screwdriver, prise the spring
clip from the top of the sttirt and disconnect It
from ttie ball on ihe tailgate (see illusb-ations).
8 Open the boot lid and remove
as previously descnbed.
9 Remove the lock assembly as previously
described.
10 Undo the two retaining screws, free the
lock cylinder from its location and disconnect
the wiring connector (see illustrations).
11 Where applicable, depress the retaining
catch and release the operating cable from
the lock cylinder Disconnect the operating
cable inner end fitting from the look cylinder
and remove ttie cylinder.
Refitting
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
18.3 Drive out the tailgate hinge pins
(arrowed) from outside to inside
7 Similarly prise the spring clip from tiie
bottom ot the strut and disconnect it from the
ball on the body Withdraw fhe start.
Refitting
a Refitting is a reversal of removal.
19 Tailgate locit components removai and refttting
Removal
18.6a Prise the spring clip from the top of
the s t r u t . . .
1 Open the tailgate and
e the trim 3 Carefully prise free the side trim panel on
caps over the upper side trim panel retaining each side to release the three retaining clips
vs. Undo the screw each side (see (see Iltustration).
illustrations).
4 Using a forked tool, or removal tool, extract
2 Unscrew the parcel shelf lifting pins n each the four stud retaining clips at fhe lower edge
sWe.
of the lower tnm panel (see illustration).
Hatchback models
18.6b . . . and disconnect it from the bail
on the tailgate
5 Undo the retaining screws in the centre of
the panel and pull out the centre pins of the
four plastic rivets.
6 Puil the panel away from the tailgate to
release the remaining internal clips and remove
the panel from the tailgate (see Illustration).
7 With the trim panel removed, proceed as
described in Section 17 for the lock assembly
and lock cylinder removal and refitting
procedures.
Estate models
8 Undo the retaining screw located in the
tailgate release handle aperture, and remove
the release handle (see Illustration).
9 Using a small screwdriver, extract the centre
pins and remove the plastic securing rivets
(see illustration).
10 Pull the lower tnm panel away from the
tailgate to release the remaining internal clips
and remove the panel from the tailgate (see
illustration}.
19.1a Remove the trim caps over th»
upper side trim panel retaining screws...
19.3 Prteel»ett»esid» trim panel on aach
side to release the three retaining clips
19.4 Extract Ihe four stud retaining clips at
the lower edge of the lower trim panel
3 Extract the centre pins
the plastic securing rivets
19.6 Pull the panel away from the tailgate
lo release me remaining imemai cups
19.10 Pull the lower trim panel away
trom the tailgate to release ttw remaining
internal clips
20.3 Prise off tlie mirror inteiior trim panel
to release the two retaining clips
20.4 Disconnect the wiring connector from
the
rninw
20.5a Release the tweets- speaker wiring
harness retaining c l i p . . .
20.5b . . . and disconnect the tweeter
wiring connector
20.6 Extract the blanking plug from the
front edge of the door and undo the mirror
lower retaining bolt now exposed
20.7 Undo the two upper retaining bolts
(arrowed) and remove the mirror assembly
from the door
4 Disconnect the wiring connector fram the
minor (see illustration).
5 Release the tweeter speaker wiring hamess
retaining clip fram the interior trim panel, and
disconnect the tweeter wiring connector (see
illustrations). Remove the trim panel.
6 Extract the blanking plug from the front
edge of the door and undo the mirror lower
retaining bolt now exposed (see illustration).
7 Undo the two upper retaining bolts and
remove the mirror assembly from the door
(see illustration).
edge of the glass outwards to release the
internal retaining clips (see illustration),
11 Withdraw the mirror glass and disconnect
the wiring connectors (see illustration).
Refitting
11 With the tiim panel removed, proceed as
described in Sectbn 17 the lock asseml^ and
lock cylinder removal and refitting procedures.
Rentting
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
.
20 Exterior mirrors a n d
associated components removal and refitting
Exterior
mirror
i
Refitting
Removal
8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal.
1 Fully open the door window,
2 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 12.
3 Carefully prise off the minor interior trim
panel to release the two retaining clips (see
illustration)
Mirror
20.10 Prise the outer edge of the glass
outwards to release the mternal retaining
clips
glass
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Carefully
press the min-or glass into the housing until
the centre retainer clips are engaged.
O u t e r cotrer
Removal
13 Remove the mirror glass as described
previously in this Section.
14 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise
the outer cover away from the mirror body
to release the inner locating pin from its hole
Removal
9 Press the Inner edge of the glass inwands so
that the glass is forced out from the centre.
10 Using a plastic wedge, prise the outer
15 Compress the four clips securing the
cover to the mirror body, starting with the
two inner clips, then the two outer clips (see
20.11 Withdraw the min-or glass and
disconnect the wiring connectors
20.14 Pnse the outer cover away from the
mirror body to release the inner locating
pin (arrowed) from its hole
20.15 Compress the four Clips securing
r to the mirror body
motor spindle. To gam access to the motor
spindle, carefully pnse out the trim cover
situated at the rear of the sunroof, Inserl the
Allen key in the motor spindle, and turn to
move the sunroof to the required position. A
suitable Allen key is supplied with the vehicle,
and is attached to the inside ot the trim cover.
23 B o d y e x t e i i o r f i t t i n g s removal and refitting
20.19c . . . and withdraw the cower
illustration). Withdraw the cover trom the
mirror body.
Refitting
21 W i n d s c r e e n a n d
fixed w i n d o w glass general information
16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
17 Remove the mirror from the car as
descriiDed previously in this Section.
18 Remove the rubber seal from the mirror
frame (see Illustration),
19 Using a small screwdriver, carefully
release the base cover from the
and minor body, and withdraw the o 3r(see
illustrations).
reversal of removal.
23.1 Carefully release the twenty tabs and
remove the grille Irom the bumper
The windscreen and rear window glass are
cemented in position with a special adhesive
and require the use of specialist equipment for
their removal and refitting. Renewal of such
fixed glass is considered beyond the scope
of the home mechanic. Owners are strongly
advised to have the work carried out by one
of the many specialist windscreen fitting
specialists.
22 Sunroof general information
A manual or electric sunnjof was offered as
an optional extra on most models, and is fitted
as standard equipment on some models.
Due to the complexity of the sunroof
mechanism, considerable expertise is
needed to repair, renew or adjust the sunroof
components successfully. Removal ot the roof
first requires the headlining to be removed,
which is a complex and tedious operation in
itself, and not a task to be undertaken lightly
Therefore, any problems with the sunroof
should be refened to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.
On models with an electric sunnaof, if the
sunroof motor fails to operate, first check the
relevant fuse. If the fault cannot be traced
and rectified, the sunroof can be opened and
closed manually using an Allen key to turn the
^x,
^
Radiator
grilie
1 Remove the front bumper as described in
Section 6, Carefully release the twenty tabs
and remove the grille from the bumper (see
illustration),
2 Refit the grille to the bumper ensunng it is
securely held by the retaining tabs, then refit
the front bumper as described in Section 6,
Wlieel arcli
and body
liners
under-panels
3 The various plastic covers fitted to the
underside of the vehicle are secured in positron
by a mixture of screws, nuts and retaining clips,
and removal will be fairly obvious on inspection.
Work methodically around the liner/panel,
removing its retaining screws and rele^lng its
retaining clips until it is free to be removed from_
the underside of the vehicie. Most clips used on
the vehicle, with the exception of the fasteners
which are used to secure the wheel arch liners,
are simply phsed out of position. The wheel
arch liner clips are released by tapping their
centre pins thraugh the clip, and then removing
the outer section of the clip; new clips will be
requited on refitting if the centre pins are not
recovered,
4 When refitting, renew any retaining clips
that may have been broken on removal, and
ensure that the panel is securely retained
by all the relevant clips, nuts and screws,
Vauxhall/Opel also recommend that plastic
nuts (where used) are renewed, regareiless ot
their apparent condition, whenever they are
disturbed,
Undertray
5 On diesel engine models an undertray
is fitted beneath the engine/transmission
assembly. The undertray is secured to the
fnont subframe and undertjody with a selection
of belts and screws.
Water
deflector
6 Remove the windscreen wiper arms as
described In Chapter 12.
7 Open the bonnet, and pull up the rubber
weatherseal from the flange at the rear of the
engine compartment (see illustration)
8 Carefully prise free the water deflector from
the base of the windscreen to release the
retaining clips, and remove the water deflector
Irom the car (see Illustration).
9 Refit the water deflector using a reversal of
the removal procedure. Refit the wiper arms
as described in Chapter 12.
Body
trim
strips
and
badges
10 The vanous body trim strips and badges
are held in positton with a special adhesive
tape. Removal requires the trim/badge to be
heated, to soften the adhesive, and then cut
away from the surface. Due to the high risi< of
damage to the vehicle's paintwori< during this
operation, it Is recommended that this task
Should be entrusted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer
24 Seats removal and refitting
^
jt;
A
Warning: The front seats are
equipped with seat tielt tensioners,
and side airbags may be built into
the outer sides of the seats. The seat belt
tensioners and side airbags may cause injury
if triggered accidentally. If the tensioner has
been triggered due to a sudden impact or
accident, the unit must be renewed, as It
caniKt be reset. If a seat is to be disposed
of, (he tensioner must be triggered before
the seat Is removed from the vehicle. Due
to safety considerations, tensioner renewal
or seat disposal must be entrusted to a
Vauxhall/Opel dealer. Where side airbags
are fitted, refer to Chapter 12 for the
prec
Ì which should be observed
when dealing with an airt}ag system.
1 Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter) Wait 2 minutes for the
23.7 Pull up the rubber weatherseal
from the flange at the rear of the engine
capacitors to discharge, before working on
the seat electrics.
Front
seat
removal
2 Depress the two tabs and remove the front
seat headrest.
3 Slide the seat adjustment fijilyfonward.
4 Unclip the cover over the seat belt
mounting, then undo the seat belt retaining
bolt (see Illustration).
5 Pull out the locking bar and disconnect the
wiring connector from the underside of the
seat, at the rear (see illusb^tlon).
6 Slacken and remove the seat retaining
bolts from the rear of the guide rails (see
illustration).
7 Pull the seat backwanis to disengage the
guide rail front mounting lugs from the floor.
The seat can now be lifted out of the vehicle.
Front
seat
refitting
a Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
a) Remove all traces of old thread-locking
compound from the threads of the seat
retaining bolts, and clean the threaded
holes In the vehicle floor, ideally by
running a tap of the correct size and pitch
down tttem.
b) Apply a suitable thread-locking
compound to the threads of the seat
bolts. Refit the bolts, and tighten them to
the specified torque setting.
c) Reconnect the seat wiring connector
making sure it has located securely, then
reconnect the tmttery negative terminal.
24.5 Pull out the locking bar and
disconnect the vriring cor
underside of the seat
2 3 3 Prise free the water deflector from
the base of the windscreen lo release the
retaining clips
Rear
seat
removal
Cushion
9 Pull the front of the rear seat cushion
upwards to disengage the front mountings.
Where applicable, disconnect the wiring for
the seat heater
10 On Saloon and Hatchback modeis, lift the
cushion out of the rear mountings and remove
it from the car.
11 On Estate models, push the cushion and
move It to the left to disengage the left-hand
rear mounting, then move it to the right to
disengage the right-hand rear mounting.
Remove the cushion trom the car.
Baclo^st
12 Remove the rear seat cushion as
described previously in this Section.
13 Pull the upper portion of the backrest
side padding fonward to disengage the upper
mounting, tìien lift it up to disengage the lower
hook (see illustrations). Remove the side
padding from the car.
14 Unscrew tiie retaining nut and remove the
centre seat belt buckle.
15 Fold the backrest forward then, using
a screwdriver, press the outer hinge pin
locking collar in, to free the hinge pin, while
at the same time pulling upwarel to release tiie
16 Fold the backrost upward, then pull the
hinge pin out of the centre support (left-hand
side), or pull the backrest off the hinge pin
(right-hand side) (see Illustration). Remove
the backrest from the vehicle
24.6 Slacken and remove the se
retaining bolts (amjwed) from the n
the guide rails
''•\ ^
Zi
24.13a Pull the upper portion of tha
backrvBt side padding fonward t o
^~
m
\
26 Seat belt c o m p o n e n t s removal and refitting
A
Warning: The front seats (and
on cartain models, ttie outer
rear seats)
are fitted
witti
pyrotectinic
seat belt tensioners which
are triggered
by the alrbag
control
system. Before removing a seat belt,
disconnect the battery and wait at least
2 minutes to allow the system capacitors
to discharge.
Front
beit
and
reel
Removal
24.15 Press the outer hinge pin lockirvg
collar in, while at the same time pulling
upward to release the backrest
Rear
seat
refitting
17 Refitting is a reverse of the removal pro" 2 5 Seat belt t e n s i o n i n g
mechanism general information
All models covered in this manual are fitted
With a front seat belt pyrotechnic tensioner
system- On certain models, this system is
also fitted to the outer rear seat belts. The
system is designed to instantaneously take
up any slack in the seat belt in the case of a
sudden frontal impact, therefore reducing the
possibility of injury to the front seat occupants.
Each front seat is fitted with its own system,
the components of which are mounted on the
it frame.
26.3 Undo the front seat b ^ upper
mounting boK
24.16 Pull the backrest o » the hinge pin
(arrowed) ~ right-hand backrest shown
The seat beit tensioner is triggered by a
frontal impact causing a deceleration of six
times the force of gravity or greater. Lesser
impacts, including Impacts from behind, will
not tngger the system.
When the system is triggered, a
pretensioned spring draws back the seat
belt via a cable which acts on the seat belt
stalk. The cable can move by up to 80.0 mm,
which therefore reduces the slack in the seat
belt around the shoulders and waist ol the
occupant by a similar amount.
There is a risk ot injury if the system is
triggered inadvertently when working on
the vehicle, and it is therefore strongly
recommended that any work involving the
seat belt tensioner system is entrusted to a
Vauxhali/Opel dealer Refer to the warning
given at the beginning of Section 24 before
itemplating any work on the front seats.
1 Unclip the cover over the seat belt mounting
on the front seat, then undo Ihe seat belt
retaining bolt (see illustration 24.4),
2 Remove the B-pillar inner trim panel and sill
trim panel as deschtied in Section 27.
3 Undo the seat belt upper mounting boh
(see Illustration),
4 Prise the cover from the lower outside of
the B-pillar tot access to the front ssat belt
reel mounting nut (see illustrations). Using
a 13 mm socket, 65 mm deep on the inside,
unscrew the nut taking care not to drop it
inside the B-pillar Note that an extension pin
is provided to enable the nut to be removed
safely.
5 With the nut removed, remove the reel from
the inside of the pillar
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removai, but tighten
the mounting boits to the specified torejue.
Front belt
stailt
and
tensioner
Removal
7 Remove the front seat as descnbed in
Section 24,
8 From underneath the seat, slide out the
wiring connector locking bar and disconnect
the wiring connector (see illustrations),
Uncllp the wiring harness from the seat,
9 Undo the retaining bolt and withdraw the
tensioner from the seat (see illustration),
10 Release the cable retaining clip and
the tensioner (see illustration).
26.4b . . . for access to the front seat belt
reel mounting nut (arrowed)
2&8a Slide out the wiring connector
locking l i a r . . .
(arrowed) and
Refitting
11 Refitting is a reverse o! the removal
procedure, rroting the following points:
aJ Remove all traces of old thread-locking
compound from the thread of the
tensioner retaining bolt, and clean the
threaded hole in the seat, ideally by
running a tap of the correct size and pitch
down it.
b) Apply a suitable thread-locking
compound to the thread of the tensioner
retaining bolt. Refit the bolt, and tighten it
to the specified torque setting.
Rear
outer
ttelt
and
reel
Removal
12 Remove the rear seal cushion as
described in Section 24.
13 Remove the luggage compartment upper
side trim and sill rear trim panel
in Section 27.
26.eb . . . and disconnect the seat belt
tensioner wiring connector
26.14 Undo the rear seat belt lower
mounting bolt (arrowed)
14 Undo the seat belt lower mounting bolt
(see itlustratlon).
15 Undo the seat belt reel mounting boif and
remove the reel and bell from the car (see
illusta^ation).
Refitting
16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torejue.
Rear
centre
belt
and
reel
17 The inertia reel for the centre rear seat
belt is located internally within the rear seat
backrest. To gain access, the backrest must
be removed and completely dismantled. This
Is a complex operation and considerable
expertise is needed to remove and refit the
seat upholstery and internal components
without damage. Therefore, any problems
with the centre seat belt and reel should be
refened to a Vauxhall/Opel (
26.15 Undo the rear seat belt reel
mounting bolt (arrowed) and remove the
real and belt from the car
Rear
belt
stalk
and
tensioner
Removal
18 Remove the rear seat cushion as
described in Section 24.
19 On models without seal belt tensioners,
undo the retaining nut and remove the relevant
stalk from the floor (see illustration).
20 On models with seat belt tensioners,
slide out the winng connector locking bar and
disconnect the wiring connector.
21 Undo the retaining nut and remove the
relevant tensioner from the floor. Note that anew retaining nut will be required for refitting.
Refitting
22 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
iighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque.
27 Interior t r i m removal and refitting
1 The interior trim panels are secured by a
combination of clips and screws. Removal and
refitting is generally self-explanatory, noting
that it may be necessary to remove or loosen
surrounding panels to allow a particular panel
to be removed. The following paragraphs
describe the general removal and refilling
details of the major panels.
26.19 Undo tfie retaining nut (arrowed) and
remove the relevant stalk from the floor
27.2 Pull off the front door weather strip In
tne vicinrty of tne A-piiiar b i m panel
A-pillar
trim
panel
2 Pull oft the front door weather strip in
the vicinity of the A-pillar trim panel (see
27.3 Pull out the alrbag positioning clip
from ttie trim panel
remove the footwell panel
3 On models equipped with curtain airbags,
pull out the airbag positioning clip from the
trim panel (see Illustration).
4 Pull the tnm panel away from the A-pillar
andr«
it fram the ci
S Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Front footwell
side trim
panel
S Open thefmnt door and pull the weatherstrip
away from the side trim panel and side sill
panel.
7 Undo the two screws securing the foolwell
side trim panel to the body (see Illustration).
8 Pull the overlapping side sill panel from
its location at the trant, then disengage and
remove the footwell panel (see Illustration).
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
B-pillar
upper
trim
panel
10 Open the frant and rear door--, .iiid pull the
weatherstrip away fram ii
27.4 Pull the trim panel away from the
A-plHar and remove It from the car
27.12 Prise out the plastic cover at the top
of tho B-plllar upper trim panel
11 Unclip the cover over the seat belt
mounting on tne ironi seat, men undo the seal
belt retaining bolt (see Illustration 24.4),
12 Prise out the plastic cover at the top of the
pane! (see Illustration).
13 Prise the trim panel away from the B-pillar
at the top (see IIlustration).
14 Disengage the lower end ot the panel fram
fhe B-pillar lower trim panel, feed the seat belt
through the opening and remove the panel
from the car (see illustration).
15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
27.7 Undo the two screws (anrowad)
securing the footwell side trim panel to the
body
27.13 Prise the trim panel away from the
B-pJllar at the top
19 Uncllp the bottom of the panel from the
B-pillar and remove the pane! from the car.
20 Reftting is a reversal of removal.
Side
sill inner
trim
panel
21 Open the front and rear doors and pull the
weatherstrip away from the B-pillar and the
lower part of the door apertures.
22 Remove the rear seat cushion as
described in Section 24.
23 Pull the upper portion of the seat backrest
side padding fomvana to disengage the upper
mounting, then lift it up to disengage the lower
B'pillar
lower trim
panel
hook (see illustrations 24,13a and 24.13b).
16 Open the front and rear doors and pull the Remove the side padding from the car
weatherstrip away from ttie B-pillar.
24 Spread the sides of the side sill inner trim
17 Pull the overlapping side sill panel from its panel outwanj and reiease it from the B-piliar
location to allow the B-pillar lower trim to be iower trim panel (see Illustration).
removed.
25 Starting at the front and working
18 Unclip the B-pillar lower trim panel from rearwards, unclip ihe panel from the sill and
the upper panel at the top (see lltuttratlon).
remove the panel from the car.
i; ,. n,,^
27.14 Disengage the lower end of the
panel from ttie B-pillar lower trim panel
and feed the seat belt through the opening
27.18 Unclip the B-pillar lower trim panel
from the upper panel at the top
27.24 Spread the sides of the side sni
inner trim panel outward and release It
from Uie B-plllar lower trim panel
27.30 Pult the tailgate aperture trim panel
s the internal retainmg clips
and remove the panel from the ear
27.39 Carefully unclip the upper and lower
covef- strips from the side trim panel
26 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Luggage
compartment
lower side trim
panel
Saloon a n d H a t c h b a c k m o d e l s
27 Fold the rear seat baciwed) with pliers, push in the lugs at
the e n d . . .
7.39b . . . and release one side of the unit
at a time from the tailgate
7.40 V m h d w the light unit from the tailgate
and disconnect tiie wiring connector
each side to release ttie ttiree retaining clips
(see illustration).
36 Using aforked tool, or removal tool, extract
the four stud retaining clips at tlie lower edge
of the lower trim panel (see illustration).
37 Undo the retaining screws in ttie centre of
the panel and pull out the centre pins of the
four plastic rivets.
38 Pull the panel away from the tailgate to
release the remaining intemal clips and remove
the panel from the tailgate (see illustration).
39 Working on one side of the light unit at a
time, compress the locking clip with pliers,
push in the lugs at the end and release one side
of the unit ftom ttie tailgate (see Ulusti^tions).
Repeat this procedure on the other side.
40 Once the light unit is free, withdraw it
from the tailgate and disconnect the wiring
tailgate to release the internal retaining clips
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam
is oniy possible using optica! beam-setting
equipment, and this work should therefore
be carried out by a VauxhalfOpel dealer or
suitably-equipped woil^shop.
2 For reference, the headlights can be
adjusted using the adjuster assemblies fitted
to the top of each light unit. The inner adjuster,
altera the vertical position of the beam. The
outer adjuster alters the horizontal aim of the
beam.
3 Most models have an electncally-operated
headlight beam adjustment system, controlled
via a switch in the facia. The recommended
settings are as follows.
0 Front seat(sj occupied
7 Ali seats occupied
2 All seats occupied, and load In luggage
compadment
3 Driver's seat occupied and load in the
luggage compartment
Note: When adjusting the headlight aim,
that the switch Is set to position 0.
7.45 Pull the upper trim panel away from
the tailgate to release the intemal retaining
clips
7.47 Release ttie retaining catches
(anowed) and remove the high-level
stop-light from tiie b i m panel
46 Disconnect the high-level stop-light wiring
connector.
47 Release the three retaining catches and
remove the high-level stop-light from the
tailgate upper trim pan^ (see illustration).
48 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
8
Headiigtit b e a m a l i g n m e n t -
^
g ^ e r a i informaiion
^
41 Reconnect the wiring connector then push
the light unit into the tailgate until it locks in
position.
Estate models
42 Open the tailgate, undo the retaining
screw located In the release handle aperture,
and remove the release handle (see lllush^tion 5.63).
43 Using a small screwdriver, extract the
centre pins and remove the plastic securing
rivets (see Illustration 5.64).
44 Pull the lower trim panel away from the
tailgate to release the remaining internal clips
and remove the panel from the tailgate (see
Illustration 5.65).
45 Pull the upper trim panel away from the
9.3a Undo the two lower retaining si
(arrowed) , . .
5K
I n s t r u m e n t panel ^
iv
removal and refitting
^
gj^
Note: The instrument panel is a complete
sealed assembly, and no dismantling of the
Instrument panel is possible.
9.4 Disengage the top of Q\e panel from
tho facia and disconnect the wiring
connector
9.3b . . . then pull the Instrument panel
away from the facia at the bottom
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11 Cigarette l i g h t e r removai and refitting
10 I n f o r m a t i o n display unit - removal and refitting
^
Removai
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer !o Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter),
2 Remove the steering column shrouds as
described in Chapter 11, Section 29.
3 Undo the two lower retaining screws, then
pull the panel away from the facia at the
bottom (see illustrations).
4 Disengage the top of the panel from the facia,
disconnect the wiring connector and remove
the panel fmm the car (see illustration).
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chaptet^.
2 Remove the centre vent housmg as
described in Chapters.
3 Undo the four screws and remove the
Information display unit from the centre vent
housing (see illustration).
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Proceed as described in Section 6. paragraphs 10 to 15.
12 H o r n removal and refitting.
Removai
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then )ack up
the front of the car and support it securely
on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
support).
2 Working under the bumper on the left-hand
side, undo the retaining nut/bolt and
remove the horn, disconnecting its wiring
connector as they become accessible (sae
illustration).
Refitting
3 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
13 W i p e r a r m removai and refitting
10,3 Undo the screws (amswed) and
remove the Information display unit from
the centre vent housing
Removal
1 operate the wiper motcw, then switch it off
so that the wiper arm returns to the at-rest
position.
Stick a piece of masking tape
along the edge of the wiper
blade, to use as an alignment
aid on refrtting.
-
13,2a Unclip the windscreen wiper arm
spindle nut cover . . .
13.2b . . . ttien slacken and rt
spindle nut and washer
2 Unclip the wiper arm spindle nut cover
(windscreen wiper arm), or pivot the cover
up (tailgate wiper arm), then slacken and
remove the spindle nut and washer (see
illustrations).
3 Using a suitable puller, free the wiper arm
from the spindle and remove the arm (see
Illustration). Note: If both windscreen wiper
arms are to be removed at the same time,
mark them lor identification. The anris are not
Interchangeable: the passenger-side wiper
arm is longer than the driver's-side arm, and
its shaft is also cranked slightly.
RBfitting
4 Errsure that the wiper arm and spindle
splines are clean and dry, then refit the arm to
the spindle, aligning the wiper blade with the
tape fitted on removal. Refit the spindle nut,
tightening it securely, and clip the nut cover
back in position.
r 14 WindscfBen w i p e r
m o t o r a n d linkage removal and refitting
Remova/
1 Disconnect the battery negative terrr
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in
Reference Chapter),
2 Remove the wiper amis as described ir
Sectic 113.
3 Remove the water deflector as described in
Chapter 11, Section 23,
4 Pull cut the locking bar and disconnect the
wiring connector from the wiper motor (see
Illustrations).
5 Undo the three retaining bolts, and remove
the wiper motor and linkage assembly out
from the vehicle (see illustrations).
6 If necessary, mark the relative positions of
the motor shaft and linkage arm, then unscrew
the retaining nut fmm the motor spindle. Free
the wioer linkage from the spindle, then
remove the three motor retaining bolts, and
separate the motor and linkage (see illustration).
Refitting
7 Where necessary, assemble the motor
and linkage, and securely tighten the motor
retaining bolts. Locale the linkage arm on the
motor spindle, aligning the marks made prior
to removal, and securely tighten its retaining
nut.
8 Manoeuvre the motor assembly back into
position in the vehicle. Refit ffie retaining bolts,
and tighten them securely
14.5a Undo thethree retaining bolts
(arrowed)...
13.3 Using a suitable puller, free the wiper
arm from ttie spindle
9 Reconnect the wiper motor wiring
connector.
10 Refit the water deflector as described in
Chapter 11.
11 Install both the wiper amis as described
in Section 13, and reconnect the battery
negative terminal.
, 15 Tailgate w i p e r m o t o r removai and refitting
2 Unscrew the parcel shelf lifting pins on each
side (see illustratkm 7.34).
3 Carefully prise free the side trim panel on
each side to release the three retaining clips
(sea illustration 7.35).
4 Using a forked tool, or removal tool, extract
the four stud retaining clips at the lower edge
of the lower trim panel (see illustration 7.36).
5 Undo the retaining screws in the centre of
the panel and pull out the centre pins of the
four plastic rivets.
6 Pull the panel away from the tailgate to
release the remaining internal clips and
remove the panel from the tailgate (see illustration 7.38).
Estate m o d e l s
7 Open the tailgate, undo the retaining
screw located in the release handle aperture,
and remove the release handle (see Illustration 5.63).
8 Using a small screwdriver, extract Ihe centre
pins and remove the plastic securing rivets
(see Illustration 5.64).
9 Pull the lower trim panel away from the
tailgate to release the remaining internal clips
and remove the panel from the tailgate (see
illustration 5.65).
All m o d e l s
Removal
Hatchbaclt m o d e l s
1 Open the tailgate and remove the trin
caps over the upper side trim panel retaining
screws. Undo the screw each side (see lllus
trations 7.33a and 7.33b).
^^^^^^^^^
14.4a Pull out the locking b a r . . .
10 Remove the wiper arm as described in
Section tal l Disconnect the wiring connector, then
slacken and remove the wiper motor mounting
bolts and remove the wiper motor (see
illustrations).
^^^^^^^^^^^^';
14.4b . . . a n d disconnect tho wiring
connector from the wiper motor
14.6 Wiper motor retaining bolts (arrowed)
1S.11b . . . then slacken and r ^ o v e
the tailgate wiper motor mounting bolts
(arrowed)
15.11i
Refitting
12 Refitting is the reverse of removal,
ensunng the wiper motor retaining bolts are
securely tightened.
16 W i n d s c r e e n / t a i l g a t e w a s h e r
system components remova) and refitting
Wastier
system
^
^
reservoir
1 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
2 If necessary, partially detach the wheel arch
liner,
3 From within the engine comparlment, unclip
and remove the filler neck for the windscreen
washer resen/oir.
4 Disconnect the wiring connectors at the
washer pump(s) and washer fluid level sensor,
as applicable.
5 Undo the two upper nuts, and one lower
nut, and remove the reservoir frcim under the
(see Illustrations).
6 Refitting is the
e of removal, ensuring
that the washer hose(s). ire securely connected.
Waslier
pump
7 Remove the washer reservoir •s described
at>ove.
8 Tip out the contents of the reservoir, then
carefully ease the pump out frcim the reservoir
and recover its sealing grommet.
9 Refitting is the reverse of removal, using a
new sealing grommet if the original one shows
ir deterioration.
Windscreen
wasfier
jets
10 Remove the water deflector as described
in Chapter 11, Section 23.
11 Depress the retaining clip, then carefully
prise the nozzle from the water deflector panel
(see illustration).
12 Disconnect the nozzle from its fluid hose,
and remove it from the vehicle.
13 On refitting, securely connect the nozzle
to the hose, and clip it into position in the
water deflector panel. Refit tha water deflector
panel, then check the operation of the jet.
If necessary, adjust the nozzle using a pin,
aiming the spray to a point slightly aljove the
centre of the swept area.
Taiigate
wasfier
jet
14 Carefully prise the washer jet out of the
radio aerial base and disconnect if from its
supply pipe (see Illustration)- Whilst the jet
is removed, tie a piece of string lo the supply
pipe, to ensure that it does not fall back into
the tailgate.
15 When refitting, ensure that the jet is clipped
securely in position. Check the operation of
the jet. If necessary, adjust the nozzle using a
pin, aiming the spray to a point slightly atiove
the centre of the swept a
17 R a d i o / C D piayer removai and refitting
Note: The following removal and refitting
procedure is for the range of radio/CD
units which Vauxhall/Opel fit as standard
equipment. Removal and refitting procedures of non-standard units may differ
slightly
Removai
1 All the radio/CD players fitted by Vauxhail
have DIN standanl fixings. Two special tools,
obtainable from most car accessory shops,
are required for removal. Altematively, suitable
tools can be fabricated from 3 mm diameter
wire, such as welding rc>d.
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting the battery in the
Reference Chapter).
3 Insert the tools into the holes on the front
of the unit, and push them until they snap into
place. The radio/CD player can then be slid
out of the facia (see illustration).
16.11 Depress the retaining clip, then
carefully prise the washer nozzle from the
water deflector panel
17.3 Using welding rod to compress the
clips (arrowed) on the radio/CD player
4 Disconnect ttie wiring and aeriai connections
at the rear of the unit, and remove the unit
from the car.
Reming
5 To refit the radio/CD player, reconnect the
wiring and simply push the unit into the facia
until the retaining lugs snap into place. On
completion, reconnect the battery and enter
Bie radio security code, where applicable.
vr18 S p e a k e r s removal and refitting
Front door small
^
speaker
1 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Chapter 11. Section 12.
2 Carefully prise off the door mirror interior
trim panel to release the two retaining clips
(see illustration).
3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
mirror (see Illustration).
4 Release the speaker wiring harness
retaining clip from the interior trim panel,
and disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustrations). Remove the trim panel.
5 Remove the rubber pad from the panel
base, then undo the three screws and remove
the speaker from the panel (see illustration).
6 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Rear
door
small
speaker
7 Remove the rear door inner trim panel as
described in Gh^ter 11, Sectkin 12.
8 Unclip the oontrol switch panel from the
door trim panel.
9 Unclip the speaker from the switch panel.
10 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
D o o r large
speaker
11 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Chapter 11, Section 12.
12 Undo the retaining screws, then free the
speaker from the door (see illustration).
Disconnect the wiring connectors and remove
the speaker
13 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
19 Radio a e r i a l i information
1 Where required, the aerial mast can be
unscrewed from the base unit.
2 Removal of the base unit entails removal
of the headlining, which is a complicated
operation, considered to be outside the scope
of this manual. Therefore, any problems
relating to the aerial base unit or wiring should
be entrusted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.
20 A n t i - t h e f t alarm s y s t e m general information
Note: This information is applicable only to the
anti-theft a/arm sysfem fitted by Vauxhall/Opel
as standard equipment.
1 Most models in the range are fitted with an
anti-theft alann system as standand equipment.
The alann is automafically amned and disarmed
when the deadlocks are operated using the
driver's door lock or remote control key. The
alami has switdies on all the doors (including
the tailgate), the bonnet, the radio/CD player
and fhe ignition and starter circuits. If the
tailgate, bonnet or any of the doors are opened
whilst the alarm is set. the alarm horn will
sound and the hazarcl warning ligfits will flash.
The alarm also has an immobiliser function
which makes fhe ignition and starter circuits
i n o p ^ t ^ whilst the alarm is triggered.
2 The alarm system performs a self-test
every time it is switched on; this test takes
approximately 10 seconds. During the
self-test, the LED (light emitting diode) in the
hazand warning light switch will come on. If the
LED flashes, then either the tailgate, bonnet or
one of the doors is open, or there is a fault in
the cinDult. After the Initial 10 second period,
the LED will flash to Indicate that the alami is
switched on. On unlocking the driver's door
lock, the LED will illuminate for approximately
1 second, then go out, indicating that the
alann has been switched off.
3 With the alarm set, if the tailgate is
unlocked, the tailgate switch sensing will
automatically be switched off, but the door
and bonnet switches will stili be active. Once
the tailgate is shut and locked again, the
tailgate switch sensing will be switched back
on after approximately 10 seconds.
4 Should the alarm system develop a fault,
the vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer for examination.
in the event of a break in the main electrical
supply The steenng wheel and facia airbags
are activated by a 'g' sensor (deceleration
sensor), and controlled by an electronic control
unit located under the centre console. The side
airbags and curtain airbags are activated by
severe side impact and operate independently
of the main system. A separate electrical supply,
conbx>l unit and sensor is provided for the side/
curtain airtnags on each side of the car.
23.2a Insert screwdrivers into the holes at
the rear of the steering wheel (shown with
steering wheel removed).. .
I21
H e a t e d seat c o m p o n e n t s -
p
genera! information
On models with heated seats, a heater
mat is fitted to both the seat bacl< and seat
cushion. Renewal of either heater mat involves
peeling back the upholstery, removing the old
mat, sticking the new mat in position and then
refitting the upholstery. Note that upholstery
removal and refitting requires considerable
skili and experience if it is to be carried out
successfully, and is therefore best entmsted to
your Vauxhall/Opel dealer In practice, it will be
very difficult for the home mechanic lo carry
out the job without mining the upholstery.
; 2 2 Airbag system general information
and precautions
General
information
A driver's airbag is fitted as standard
equipment on all models. The airiDag is fitted
in the steering wheel centre pad. Additionally,
a passenger's airt^ag located in the facia, side
airbags located In the front seats, and curtain
airiaags located in the headlining are optionally
Ttie system is armeo oniy when Ihe Ignition
is switched on, however, a reserve power
source maintains a power supply to the system
The airbags are inflated by a gas generator,
which forces the bag out from its location in
the steering wheel, facia, seat back frame, or
headlining.
Precautions
Warning: Tho folio wingprecau thns
must be observed when working
' on vehicles equipped with an
airbag system, to prevent the possibility of
personal injury.
A
General precautions
The foiiowing precautions must be
observed when carrying out work on a vehicle
equipped with an airbag:
a) Do not disconnect the battery with the
engine mnning.
b) Before carrying out any work in the
vicinity of the airbag. removal af any of the
airbag components, or any welding work
on the vehicle, de-activate the system as
descnbed in the following sub-Section.
c) Do not attempt to test any of the airbag
system circuits using test meters or any
other test equipment
d) If the airbag warning light comes on,
or any fault in the system is suspected,
consult a Vauxhall/Opel dealer without
delay Do not attempt to carry out fault
diagnosis, or any dismantling of the
components.
23.2b . . . to depress the alrbag Intemal
spring retainers (arrowed - shown with
airbag removed)
Activation
of alrbag
system
To activate the system on completion of any
work, proceed as follows:
a) Ensure that there are no occupants in
the vehicle, and that there are no loose
objects around the vicinity ot the steering
wheel. Close the vehicle doors and
windows.
b) Ensure that the ignition is switched off
then reconnect the tiattery negative
terminal.
c) Open the driver's door and switch on the
ignition, without reaching in front of the
steering wheel. Check that the airtiag
warning light illuminates bnefly then
extinguishes.
dj Switch off the ignition
ej If the airbag warning light does not
operate as described in paragraph c),
consult a Vauxhall/Opei dealer before
driving tiie vehicle.
Precautions when handling an airbag
a) Transport the airtyag by itself, bag upward,
b} Do not put your arms around the airbag.
c) Carry the airbag close to the body, bag
outward.
d) Do not drop the alrbag or expose it to
impacts.
e) Do not attempt to dismantle the airfDsg
unit
fj Do not connect any form of electrical
equipment to any part of the airbag
circuit
Precautions when storing an airt>ag
4
before carrying out any work on the airbag
components or surrounding area:
a; Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the airbag warning light on
the instrument panel. The light should
illuminate when the ignition is switched
on, then extinguish.
b) Switch off the ignition.
c) Remove the ignition key.
d) Switch off all electrical equipment
ej Disconnect the battery negative tenninal
(refer to 'Disconnecting the battery' in the
Reference Chapter}.
fj Insulate the battery negative terminal and
the end of the battery negative lead to
prevent any possibility of contact.
gj Wait for at least two minutes before
carrying out any further work. Wait at least
ten minutes if the alrbag warning light did
not operate correctly
aj Store the unit in a cupboard with the
airbag upward,
bj Do rtol expose the airbag to temperatures
above 80°C,
c) Do not expose the airbag to flames.
dj Do not attempt to dispose of the airbag consult a Vauxhali/Opel dealer,
e) Never refit an airbag which Is known to be
faulty or damaged.
De-activation
The
system
of airttag
must
be
system
de-activated
23 fijTbsg s y s t e m c o i r t p o n e n t s removal
refitting
A
Warning: Refer to the precautions
given in Section
22
before
attempting to carry out work on
any of tha alrbag components.
1 De-activate the airbag system as described
in the previous Secfion, then proceed as
described under the relevant heading.
Driver's
airbag
2 Insert a screwdriver into the holes on both
sides of the rear of the steering wheel to
depress the internal spring retainers, and at the
same time pull the airtjag unit away from the
steering wheel to release it (see Illustrations).
3 Release the locking clips, then disconnect
the wiring connectore at the rear of the airbag
unit (see illustration). Remove the airbag unit.
Note that the airbag must not be knocked
or dropped, and should be stored with its
padded surface uppermost.
23.1Sa Slack«i the upper clamp nut
(arrowed)...
23.18b . . . and tiie tower clamp boK
(arrowed)
4 Refitting is a reversal of tiie removal procedure.
problems with the side airbag system should
be refemed to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.
Passengers
Curtain
airbags
10 The curtain airbags are located behind
the headlining above the doors on each side
and no attempt should be made to remove
them. Any suspected problems with the
curtain alrbag system should be referred to a
Vauxhall/Opel dealer
airbag
5 Remove the glovebox as described in
Ch^ter 11, Section 29.
6 Disconnect the airbag wiring connector(s)
imm the side of the unit {see illustration).
7 Undo the two bolts securing the alrbag
to the facia crossmember and withdraw the
airbag out through the glovebox aperture (see
illustration). Note that tiie airbag must not be
knocked or dropped, and should be stored the
correct way up (as mounted in the vehicle).
8 Refitting Is a reversal of the removal
procedure, tightening the retaining bolts
securely.
Side
airbags
9 The side airbags are located internally v^tiiin
the front seat back and no attempt should
be made to remove them. Any suspected
Alrbag
control
unit
11 The alrbag control unit is located beneatii
the centre console and no attempt should be
made to remove it. Any suspected problems
with the control unit should be referred to a
Vauxh^l/Opel dealer.
Airbag
rotary
connector
12 The a i r t ) ^ rotary connector is an integral
part of the steering column electronics
module. Removal and refitting procedures for
the module are as follows:
13 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
(refer to Disconnecting ttie battery in the
Reference ChaptH^ and wait for 2 minutes.
14 Set the roadwheels In the straightahead position and ensure they remain In
that position during the removal and refitting
procedures,
15 Remove the steering wheel as described
in Chapter 1016 Remove the steering column shrouds as
described in Chapter 11, Section 29.
17 Mark fhe position of the electronics
module In relation to the steering column.
18 Slacken the upper clamp nut, and the
lower clamp bolt, ^ d withdraw the module
fram tiie steering column (see Illustrations).
19 Disconnect the wiring connector and
remove the module (see illustration).
20 Refitting Is a reversal of the removal procedure.
VAUXHALL VECTRA wiring diagrams
Key to symbols
Passenger fusebox
H
Fuse Rating Circuit protected
Infotainment system, DVD
Heater blower, hesting, air conditioning
Sunroof
Door control units
Brake light
Body control unit
LHfrontdoor control unit
Central control unit
Steering column
Diagnostic
0
Wire splir-e. soldered
joint ot unspecified
Yaw sensor (ESP)
Telematics
Cigar lighter, DVD
reslsfoi
Resistor
Dast>ed outline denolea part of a
iarget Hem, containing inttiiscase
^ ^adronlc or soltd state device.
e,g. connector no. XC30, pin 2.
Engine fusebox
Fuse
Fl
FZ
F3
F4
F5
F6
F7
F8
F9
FIO
F11
FIE
F13
P14
F15
f®
Rear f u s e b o x 1 ^
Fuse Rating Circuit prertected
Electric seat adji
Heated rear window
ElectricseatadjuEtm_ .
RH rear electric window
LH rear electric wira
RH tear seat heater
Horn, alarm
IS
Rating
20A
25A
15A
tOA
15A
Circuit protected
Ennlne management, automatic
Starter
Hom
Atrconditioning, climate control
Wash/wipe system
ISA
10A
7,5A
IDA
30A
30A
7.5A
30A
10A
Central contra! unit, ESP
Haadllghis, heated washer
Power steering
AQaplive lighting
Windscreen wiper
Windscreer) wiper
Central control unit ESP
I leadllghtwasii system
Engine control unit
Adaptive lighting,
Headlight levelling,
Xenon headlights
Headlighl levelling
WashAvIpe
Auiiiiary heating
Battery voltage.'
Battery voltage,
Tailgate module
Tailgalo module control unit
Vehicle interior module control
ABS
Vehicle interior module control unit
TallgolB module control un(t
Engine cooling fan
Engine cooling fan
Adaptive lightir,g (slot tor ctiaf^Mg Halting lor abroad)
Battery voltage
LH rear seal heater
Towing equipment
Rear wiper
LH front seat iiaater
RHfr.
Accessory socket
Tailgate lock
Terminal 30
Central lodiing
Alarm
Electrically operated tailgate
Alarm
Battery voltage
Electronic chassis
Terminal 15 (ignition !ock)
Seat occupancy recognifion, lyre pressure monitor,
ram sensor, air conditioning
Parking distance sc
Earth l o c a t i o n s
E9
E10
Ell
E12
E13
E14
E1S
E16
E17
Engine C(
nt start to îrRH sii
RH 'A' pillar
Instnjment panel cnoss member front passenger side
LH engine compartment
Instnimsnt panel cross member front passenger side
LH front frame side member
Rear panel RH side
Transmission tunnel
LH 'A' pillar
Engine starter/altemator
RH'C pillar
Rear panel LH side
On engine
Steering column bracket
On tailgate
Engine compartment strut
Rear panel RH side
Wire colours
LBu
•Bg Beige
LGn
. Bn Brcwn
Og
DBu Dark blue Bn
. DGn Dark green Pu
; Ye Vellow
Pk
- Gn Green
Rd
• Gy Grey
Wh
• Vt Violet
Bu
5
g,
5
R single engine ]
1 cooling fan j
Light blue
Ughi green
Orange
Brown
Purple
Pink
Red
White
Blue
so»
Key to items
1 Battery
2 Engine 1
a = ur
t<1 = Sti
= '»1
^ k i = he
Diagram 2
. Wire colours
•
; BQ Beige
LBu
LGn
' Bk Black
Og
Bn Brown
. DBu Dark blue
• DGn Dark green
. YB Yellow
Pk
:/ On erei
Rd
LIghiblue
Ught green
Orange
Purple
Pink
Bed
[ Stop & mverslng lights j
8
11
12
13
14
15
k3= temunallSrelay
Steering column control unit
Rear fusebox
a = rear electronic control unit
Passenger tuaobox
Stop light Ewitch
Reversing light switch
LH rear light unit is^oonfliatch)
a = reversing light
b = stop light
0 = taU light
16 BH rear light unit Isaloon/hatch)
a = reversing light
b = stoplight
c = tail light
17 LH inner rear light unit (estate)
a = reversing light
3il light
nner tear liQ
a - reversing lie
b = tell light
19 High level brake light
20 LHoutet near light unit (estate)
a = stop tight
21 RH outer rear light unit |e
a = stop light
22 Number plate light
23 LH ttonl light unit
a = adekght
24 RH front light unit
e light
[ SMa. tail a number plate lights ]
U
i ^
Diagram^
• • Bg Beige
.Bk Black
Bn Blown
LBu Lighl blue
LGn Lighl gree
Og O'ange
RH outer rear lighl linn (estate) ?6 Body
b = direction indicator
30 ' ' ' "
LH fmnl iigiit unit
31 RH
Enmne lusebox
Je
iir LEGHT jnii {saIcon/hatch)
2b
Lignt switch
a = side/headiigrn swilcti
b = front foQlighlsmilcti
c --: rear foglight switch .
- ^ ^ l
I Trailer
C I D ŒH)
socket)
m
;X031/gS(>-Bk—
:XC31/430—Gri-
.1.1
••
Û:r-i-et<» " i
™speed
4
4
4
DFO) ( M L CFID
4
CFID
Light blue
I Ughi green
•Bu Dark blu.
• Ye
• Qn
Gv
,. W
Yellow
Green
Grey
Violel
Battery
Engine ftisebox
43
a = under bonnet control unit 44
•15
k3 - temiinal 15 relay
46
23 Hi front light unit
47
g - headlight levelling
48
24 BH front light unit
49
50
g = headlight levelling
25 Light switch
51
a = sideflieaclllght switch
52
d - headlight levelling
53
iHeadlìght levelling - ]
I without xenon lighting J
Headlight levelling oontrol uni
Front level sensor
Rear level sensor
Front interior light
Rear inleiior light
Gkiveboi light
Luggage compartment light
Ashtray light
LH front door light
BH front door light
LH rear door light
54 RH rear door light
55 LH front door craitrol ur
56 RH front door control ui
Headlight levelling - 1
with xenon lighting 1
i3
dÉCÉD
?
s
?
l E t o l fETsI f a i
fEÌQ) (EÌ6I fEel
RdW, ™<) XC31?B0-
CM]
CÈldfS
Diagram
;,.Bg Beige
-•-Bk Black
ivBn Bmwn
LBu Ughtblue
LGn Light gree
Og Orange
1
2
Battery
Engine tuseDox
a = under bonnet con iroi ui
ke = front wiper oiVo if
k7 -- headllglrt v/asher relay
Steering column conlrol unit
12
26
60
61
65
lenger fusobox
.3 = terminal 15 relay
Body coritfOl unit
Cigar lighter
Accessory socket
LH washer jet heater
67 Fron^tviper motOT ^'
I Cigar lighters,
[accessory socket
7d
i
?
s
5
I
fEMl lElel
fin
dio) d l D ( J D I
r-T
«5
Wire colours
Bg Beige
LBu
. Bk Biack
LGn
Bn Brown
Og
DBu Dark blue Bo
DGn Daik green Pu
Ye Yellow
Gn Green
Rd
Gy Grey
[ Vif^ed
Ught blue
Ughi green 1
Orange
Brown
Purple
2
8
Bed
11
mar window )
Battery
Engine fusebox
Steering column conirol unit
Rearfus^x
a = fear electronic control unit
k7 - tieated rear window relay
17 Passenger fusebox
k3= terminal 15 relay
k4 = blower relay
k5 = blower relay
26 Body control unit
75 Heated rear window
76 Heater assembly
a = control unit
D - heater blower mc
e = afi distri»birtiori taiin m
f = air mixer flap motor
Sunroof assembly
Sunroof switcft
{ Sunroof ]
CEIQ]
(Eiö) fEìe) r i s i
4 4 4
fEÌoifEÌiirm
[Elèi fESl
;-; W i r e c o l o u r s
. ". Bg Beige
LBu Ugfit
••
; Bk Blank
LGn LÌ9I1I green
:- Bn Brown
Og Orange
.- DBu Dark blue Bn Brown
,; DGn Dark green Pu Piijple
Yellow
Pk Pmk
.'^Gn Green
Rd Red
ox
12
56
55
56
ka = central locking relay
(luelfiterflap)
Passenger fusebox
Body control unit
LH front door cantro! unit
RH front
RH front door switch unit
c - locking open/dose
d = tailgate release
92
93
94
95
f = child securty illumination 96
g = switch illuminallon
97
ao LH front door switch unit
o = locking opai/close
d = tailgate release
91 LH front door lodt
LH rear door lock
RH frontdoor lock
RH rear door lock
Tailgate unlock switch
Tailgate lock
Fuel filier fl^ motor
Diagram 10
• Bk Black
Bn Brown
DBu Dark blue
• DGn Dark greer1
LBu
LGn
Og
Bn
Pu
Pk
üghtbluB
Light grewi
Orange
Brown
Purple
Pink
1 Battery
2 Engine tusabox
11 Rear fusetjox
a = rsar electronic control unit
26
55
50
86
Body control unit
LH front door control unit
RH front door control unit
RH front door switch unit
h = LH front window swilCh
Reference
Dimensions and weiglits
REF»1
Disconnecting the battery
Fuel e c o n o m y
REF»2
Tools a n d w o r k i n g facilities
REF»10
REF«9
REF«6
M O T test checks
REF«12
Buying spare parts
REF»7
Faultfinding
REF-16
Vehicle identification
REF»7
Glossary of t e c h n i c a l t e r m s
REF"26
General repair p r o c e d u r e s
REF»8
Index
REF-31
Jacking a n d veliicle support
REF*9
Conversion factors
Dimensions and weights
Note: AW figures are approximate and may vary according to model. Refer to manufacturers data for exact ffgures.
Dimensions
Overall length;
Saloon and Hatchback
Estate
Overall width (including door mirrors)
Overall height (unladen):
Saloon and Hatchback
Estate
Wheelbase:
S^oon and Hatchback
Estate
Tumlrig clrde diameter (wall to wall)
Front track
Rear track
Weights
Kerb weight;
1,8 litre petrol engine models:
Saloon
Hatchback
Estate
2.2 litre petral engine models:
Saloon
Hatchback
Estate
Diesel engine models:
Saloon
Hatchback
Estate
Gross vehicle weight
Maximum roof load (including weight of rad^:
Saloon and Hatchback
Estate;
Without rooi railing
With roof railing
4611 mm
4839 mm
2036 mm
1460 mm
1500 mm
2700 mm
2830 mm
11,50 metres
1536 mm
1525 mm
1375to1395kg
1390 to 1410 kg
1470to1490 k9
1435 to 1485 kg
1450 to 1500 kg
1530 to 1580 kg
1503 to 1548 kg
15D3 to 1580 kg
1585 to 1633 kg
Refer to information contained on the vehicle identification plate
90 kg
75 kg
100 kg
REF.2
Fuel economy
Fuel economy
Although depreciation Is still the biggest part of the cost of motoring for most c r owners, the cost of fuel is more Immediately noticeable.
"mese pages give some tips on how to get the best hiel economy.
Worlear
much resembianca to the quoted figures.
H o w t o calculate tt
Many cars now have trip computers which will
display fuel consumption, both instantaneous
and average. Refer to the owner's handbook
for details of how to use these.
To calculate consumption yourself (and
maybe to check that the trip computer is
accurate), pnoceed as follows.
in litres, measure distances in miles and talk
about fuel consumption in miles per gallon.
There are two ways round this: the first is
to convert the litres to gallons before doing
the calculation (by dividing by 4.546, or see
Table 1). So in the example:
1. Fill up with fuel and note the mileage, or
zero ttte trip recorder.
2. Drive as usual until you need to fill up
again.
3. Note the amount of fuel required to refill the
tank, and the mileage covered since the
previous fill-up.
4. Divide the mileage by the amount of fuel
used to obtain the consumptron figure.
The second way is to calculate the
consumption in miles per litre, then multiply
that figure by 4.546 (or see Table 2).
48.6 litres T 4.546 = 10.69 gallons
443 miles -T 10.69 gallons = 41.4 mpg
So in ttie example, futí consumption is:
443 miles .^ 48,6 litres = 9,1 mpl
9.1 mpl x4.546 = 41,4 mpg
For example:
Mileage at first fill-up (^ = 27,903
Mileage ai second fill-up (b) = 28,346
Mileage covered (b - a] - 443
Fuel required at second fill-up = 48.6 litres
The half-completed changeover to metric
units in the UK means that we buy our fuel
The rest of Europe expresses fuel consumptton
in litres of fuel required to travel 100 km (1/100
km). For interest, the conversions are given
in Table 3. in practice It doesn't matter what
units you use, provided you know what your
normal consumption is and can spot if it's
getting better or worse.
Table 1: conversion of litres t o Imperial gallons
lion of miies per litre t o miles per gallon
miles per litre
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
miles per gallon
23
27
32
36
41
46
SO
m
j
13
Table 3: c o n v e r s i o n of litres per 100 k m t o miles per gallon
4
litres par 100 km
ttalaa^-galten
.
71
4.5
5
5.5
6
6,5
56
_5t
4?
«
1
1
7
i
46
j
8
9
3»
10
Fuel economy
REF.3
Maintenance
A we 11-maintained car uses less fuei and
creates less pollution. In particular;
Filters
Change air and fuel filters at the specified
intervals.
Oil
Use a good quality oil of Ihe lowesl viscosity
specified by the vehicle manutacturer (see
Lubricants and fluids). Check the level often
and be careful not to overfill.
Spark plugs
Tyres
Check tyre pressures regularly Under-inflated
tyres have an increased rolling resistance. It
is generally safe to use the higher pressures
specified for full load conditions even when
not fully laden, but keep an eye on the centre
band of tread for signs of wear due to overinflation.
When buying new tyres, consider the 'fuel
saving' models which most manufacturers
include in their ranges.
When applicable, renew at the specified
intervals.
Driving style
Acceleration
Acceleration uses more fuel than driving at
a steady speed. The best technique with
modern cars is to accelerate reasonably
briskly tc the desired speed, changing up
through the gears as soon as possible without
making the engine labour.
Air condttioning
Air conditioning absorbs quite a bit of energy
from the engine - typically 3 kW {4 hp) or so.
The effect on fuel consumption is at its worst
In slow traffic. Switch it off when not required.
Anticipation
Drive smoothly and try to read the traffic flow
so as to avoid unnecessary acceleration and
braking.
Automatic transmission
When accelerating in an automatic, avoid
depressing the throttle so far as to make the
transmission hold onto lower gears at higher
speeds. Don't use the 'Sport' setting, if
applicable.
When stationary with the engine running,
select 'N' or 'P'. When moving, keep your left
toot away from the brake.
Braking
Braking converts the car's energy of motion
into heat - essentially, it is wasted. Obviously
some braking is always going to be necessary,
but with good anticipation it is surprising how
much can be avoided, especially on routes
that you know well.
Carshare
REF.4
Fuel economy
Electrical loads
Electricity is 'fuel' too; the alternator wtiich
charges the battery does so by converting
some of the engine's energy of motion
into electrical energy. The more electrical
accessories are in use, the greater the load
on the alternator Switch off big consumers
like the heated rear window when not
required.
Freewheel ing
Freewheeling (coasting) in neutral with the
engine switched off is dangerous. The effort
required to operate power-assisted brakes
and steering increases when the engine is
not ronning, with a potential lack of control in
emergency situations.
In any case, modern fuel injection systems
automatically cut off the engine's fuel supply
on the overrun (moving and in gear, but with
fhe accelerator pedal released).
Bolt-on devices claiming to save fuel have
been around for nearly as long as the motor
car itself. Those which worked were rapidly
adopted as standard equipment by the vehicle
manufacturers. Others worked only in certain
situations, or saved fuel only at the expense
of unacceptable effects on performance,
driveabllity or the life of engine components.
The most effective fuel saving gadget is the
driver's right foot.
J o u r n e y planning
Combine (eg) a trip to the supermarket with a
visit to the recycling centre and the DIY store,
rather than making separate journeys.
When possible choose a travelling time
outside rush hours.
Load
The more heavily a car is laden, the greater
the energy required to accelerate it to a given
speed. Remove heavy items which you dont
need to carry.
One load which is often overlooked Is the
contents of the fuel tank. A tankhjl of fuel (55
litres / 1 2 gallons) weighs 45 kg (100 lb) or so.
Just half filling it may be worthwhile.
Lost?
At the risk of stating the obvious, if you're
going somewhere new, have details of the
route to hand There's not much point in
achieving record mpg if you also go miles out
of your way.
Parking
if possible, carry out any reversing or turning
manoeuvres when you arrive at a paiidng
space so that you can drive straight out when
you leave. Manoeuvering when the engine is
cold uses a lot more fuek
Driving around looking for free on-street
parking may cost more in fuel than buying a
car park ticket.
Premium fuel
Most major oil companies (and some
supermarkets)»have premium grades of fuel
which are several pence a litre dearer than
the standard grades. Reports vary, but the
consensus seems to be that if these fuels
improve economy at all, they do not do so by
enough to justify their extra cost.
Roof rack
When loading a roof rack, try to produce a
wedge shape with the narrow end at the front.
Any cover should be securely fastened - if it
fiaps It's creating turbulence and absorbing
energy
Remove roof racks and boxes when not
in use - they increase air resistance and can
create a surpnsing amount of loise.
Fuel economy
REF-S
Short journeys
The engine is at its least efficient, and wear
is highest, during the first few miles after a
cold start. Consider walking, cycling or using
public transport.
Speed
The engine is at its most efficient when running
at a steady speed and load at the rpm where it
develops maximum tongue. (You can find this
figure in the car's handbool(.) For most cars
ttiis corresponds lo t>etween 55 and 65 mph
In top gear.
Above the optimum cruising speed, fuel
consumption starts to rise quite sharply. A
car travelling at 80 mph will typically lie using
30% more fuel than at 60 mph.
Supermarket fuel
It may be cheap but is It any good? In ttie UK
all supermarket fuel must meet the relevant
British Standard. The major oil companies
will say that their branded fuels have better
additive packages which may stop carbon
and other deposits building up. A reasonable
compromise might be to use one tank
of branded fuel to three or four from the
sjpemiarket.
Switch off when stationary
Switch off the engine if you look like being
stationary for more than 30 seconds or so.
This is good for the environment as well as for
your pocket. Be aware though that frequent
restarts are hard on the battery and the starter
Windows
Driving with the windows open increases
air turbulence around the vehicle. Closing
the windows promotes smooth airflow and
reduced resistance. The faster you go, the
more significant this is.
And f i n a l l y . . .
Driving techniques associated with good
fuel economy tend to involve moderate
acceleration and low top speeds. Be
considerate to the needs of other road users
who may need to make brisker progress: even
it you do not agree with them this is not an
excuse to be obstructive.
Safety must always take precedence
over economy, whether it is a question of
accelerating hard to complete an overtaking
manoeuvre, killing your speed when confronted
with a potential hazand or switching the lights
on when II starts to get dark.
REF.6
Conversion factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in)
Feet (ft)
Miles
X25.4
x 0.305
X 1.609
= Millimetres (mm)
= Metres (m)
= Kilometres (km)
X 0.0394 = Inches (in)
X 3.281 = Feet (ft)
X 0.621 = Miles
Cubic Inches (cu in; in=)
Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal)
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
=
=
3
=
=
=
=
=
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb)
X 28.35 = Grams (g)
X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg)
X 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
X 2.205 - Pounds (lb)
X 0,278 = Newtons (N)
X 4.448 = Newtons (N)
X 0.1
= Kilograms-force (kg^ kg)
X 3.6
= Ounces-force (orf; oz)
X 0.225 = Pounds-force (Ibf; lb)
X 9.81 - Newtons (N)
inch
X 0,070 = Kilograms-force per square
centimetre (kgf/cm'; kg/cm^
X 0,068 = Atmospheres (atm)
inch
X 0.D69 = Bars
inch
X 6,895 = Kilopascals (kPa)
X 0,01
X 14.223. = Pounds-force per square
(psi; lbf/in>; Ib/in^
X 14.696; = Pounds-force per square
(psi; Ibf/in'; lb/in-)
X 14.5 = Pounds-force per square
(psl;tbf/in'; lb/In')
X 0-145 - Pounds-force per square
Ipsi;tolArf;lb/in')
X 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbat^
X
X
X 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)
X 68,947•= Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mba^
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (\rM2O)
X
X
X
X
Volume (capacity)
Mass (weight)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-ton^ (Ibf; lb)
Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds-force per square
(psi; Ibf/in^i Ib/in^
Pounds-force per square
(psi; lbt/in=; Ib/ln')
Pounds-force per square
(psi; lbf/ln=; lb/in')
Pounds-force per square
(psv. Ibf/in=; \b/\rf)
Kilopascals (kPa)
inch
16.387
0.568
1.137
1.201
0.946
4.546
1,201
3.785
Cubic centimetres (cc; cm')
Litres (1)
Utres(l)
US quarts (US qt)
Ures(l)
ytresjl)
US gallons (US gal)
Litres (1)
= Kilograms-forceps square
centimetre (kgf/cm'; kg/cnf)
100 = Pascals (Pa)
0,014£i = Pounds-force per square inch
(pal; Ibf/ln'; lb/in')
0,75 = Millimetres ot mercury (mmHg)
0.401 = Inches of water (InHaO)
0,535 = Inches of water (inHjO)
0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in'; Ib/inT
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb In)
Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force
Inches
inches
X 1,152 = Kilograms-force centimetre
(kgf cm; kg cm)
X 0,113 = Newton metres (Nm)
inches
X 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
X 0,138 = Kilograms-force metres
(kgf m; kg m)
X 1,356 = Newton metres (Nm)
X 0,102 = Kilograms-force metres
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm)
Power
i-torse power (hp)
Velocity (speed)
X 745,7 = Watts (Vfl
X
X
X
X
0.061
1.76
0,88
0,833
1,057
0-22
0.833
0.264
1.333
2.491
1,868
27,68
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
Cubic Inches (cu In; In")
Imperial pints Omp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts {US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal)
Inch
inch
Inch
inch
Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (InHgO)
X 0,868 = Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb in)
X 8,85 - Pounds-force
(Ibf In; lb In)
X 12
= Pounds-force
(Ibf in; lb in)
X 7.233 = Pounds-force
inches
incfiea
inches
feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
X 0.738 = Pounds-force feel (ibf ft; lb ft)
X 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)
X 0.0013= Horsepower (hp)
Miles per hour (mlles/hr; mph)
X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles^^; mph)
Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg)
Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
X 0,354 = Kilometres per litre (km/I)
X 0.425 = Kilometres per litre (km/I)
Fuel consumption*
Temperature
X 2.825 = Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg)
X 2.352 = Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
Degrees Fahrenheit = (=C x 1.8) + 32
Degrees Celsius (Degrees Ceiitigrade; X ) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
practice to cortvert from miles per gallon (mpg) to lltres/100 kilometies (j/IQOkm). where mpg x 1/100 km = 282
Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker's appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To b(i sure of oblainina the coiToct parts, it will
sometimes be necessary to quote the vehicle
identification number If possible, it can also
be useful to take the old parts aiong for
positive identification. Items such as starter
motors and alternators may be available
under a sen/ice exchange scheme - any parts
returned should be clean.
Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows.
Officially appointed garages
This is fhe best source of parts which
are peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg, badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc!. It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the car is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy materials
and components needed for the maintenance
of your car (oil, air and fuel filters, light bulbs,
dnvebelts, greases, brake pads, touch-up
paint, etc). Components of this nature
usually ot tne
aama standard as 0,o»a us.d by t n . car
_ ..
..
.
,
Baswes components. Ibese shops also
sell tools and general accessories, usually
REF.T
Tyre and exiiaust specialists
j^^^^
indep.ndsat. or
members ot a local or national cnain. They
,
oompetitl.o pnoes wneJ
^^Jp,
,
J'^
sr,,"rd?r„ssrs™?„T;iS!!?,\™r
^ « " » w ' » • » > « " =""="" i " ' " ' ^ • ^
^ P a ^ ^ = o S =
pt4n°ourrs
where components needed for almost any
repair job can be purchased or ordered.
T ^
^^^^^^^^
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg, brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves). They may also handle work such as
cylinder block reboring, crankshaft regrinding,
etc,
,
Engine reconditioners
These specialise in engine overiiaul and can
also supply components. It is recommended
that the establishment is a member of the
Federation of Engine Re-Manufacturers, or a
similar society
^
Z ^ - : ^ ^ ^
^
^J^
^^^^^^^^ g,, ^^^^^ commonly
"^^^'^ed on top of the price of a new tyre.
Other S O U r C B S
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales, on-line auctions
or similar outlets. Such items are not invariably
sub-standard, but there is little chance of
compensation if they do prove unsatisfactory,
m the case of safety-critical components such
as brake pads, there is the risk not only of
financial loss, but also of an accident causing
injury or death.
Second-hand components or assemblies
obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIV mechanic.
Vehicle Identification
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublished process in vehicle manufacture, information and paint and trim colour codes.
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
The Vehicle IdenlHicatlon Number (VINj is
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a given on the vehicle identification plate and
numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers is also stamped into the body floor panel
being essential to conect identif cation of the between the right-hand front seat and the
component required.
door sill panel (see illustration); lift the flap in
When ordering spare parts, always give the carpet to see it,
Vauxhall/Opel usee 'Car pass' scheme lor
as much information as possible. Quote the
car model, year of manufacture and vehicle vehicle identification. This is a card which is
identification and/or engine numbers as issued to the customer when the car is first
purchased. It contains important information,
appropriate.
eg, VIN number, key number and radio code.
The vehicle identification plate is attached
It also includes a special code for diagnostic
to the front right-hand side door pillar
equipmem, therefore it must be kept in a
(see Illustration) and includes the Vehicle
secure place and not in the vehicle.
Identification Number (VIN), vehicle weight
The engine number is stamped on a
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plate attached to the front
right-hand side door pillar
horizontal flat located on the front of the
cyiinder block, al the transmission end. The
first part of the engine number gives the
engine code - eg 213XE.
—_ _„
^"9'"^
^Odes
1.6 litre (1796 cc) DOHC 16-valve
petrol engine
Z18XE and ZISXER
2.2 litre (2198 cc) DOHC 16-valve
petrol engine
Z22YH
„ ,
,
. .
' -^J'^^. f i ^ ^ f ^ ^ " ^ ^ " , ^ 0 ^
^"9'™
1.9 litre (1910 cc) DOHC 16-valve
Diesel enflife
Z19DTH
The VIN number is stamped Into the body floor next to the
right-hand front seat
REF.8
General repair procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work.
is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out
the operation efficiently and to a professional
standanj of wor1etween the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results In oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
orcler to break the seal. However, note that this
method may not be suitable where dowels are
used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, a new one must t>e
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning
a joint face, use a tool which Is unlikely to
score or damage the face, and remove any
burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed othemvlse.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil
seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Altematively, a number of
s^-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
Of an assembly. It should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts Is not completely clean and free fnsm
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot
be restored, and the manufacturer has not
made provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
shouW be renewed.
Protect ttie lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Where indicated, lubricate the seal
lips with oil before fitting and, on duai-lipped
seals, fill the space between the lips with
grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must
be fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lutB-icant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
:e to install the seal and, if * e
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
Its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise Instnjcted).
Screw
threads
and
fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate screwdriver
bit or socket. If none of these methods works,
it may be necessary to resort to the careful
application of heat, or the use ot a hacksaw or
nut splitter device. Before resorting to extreme
methods, check that you are not dealing with
a left-hand thread!
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor
Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is
completely free from oil, grease, water or
Other fluid before installing the bolt or stud.
Failure to do this could cause the housing to
crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or
stud as it is screwed in.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, "angle-tightening" being called up
Instead, Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in the
correct sequence, followed by one or more
stages of tightening through specified angles.
When checking or retightening a nut or
bolt to a specified torque setting, slacken the
nut or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting However,
this shouid not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used,
Locknuts,
locktabs
and
washers
Any fastening which will rotate against
a component or housing during lightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end beanng retaining
bolt or nut. Locktabs which are folded over to
retain a nut or bolf should always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in noncritical areas, providing resistance can be
felt when the loclting portion passes over the
bolt or stud thread. However, it should be
noted that self-locking stiffnuts lend to lose
their effectiveness after long periods of use,
and shouW then be renewed as a matter of
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the bole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be
re-used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
appliei
Special
tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a
press, two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc Wherever possible,
suitable readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer's special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has
been necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer's tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless
you are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when ihe procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very
great risk of personal injury, but expensive
damage could be caused to the components
involved.
Environmental
considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration
to any detrimental environmental effects. Do
not, for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains Into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. You can
find your nearest disposal point by calling the
Environment Agency on 08708 506 506 or by
visiting vmw.oilbankline.org.uk.
.f>ILCARE,
Nofe: It is iilegal and anti-social to dump oii
down ihe drain. To find the location of your
local t^l recycling bank, call 08708 S06 S06
orvisltwww.ollbankllne.org.uk.
Jacking and vehicle support
The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing roadwheels
- see W/heel changing at the front of this
manual. Ensure the jack head is correctly
engaged before attempting to raise the
vehicle. When carrying out any other kind of
work, raise the vehicle using a hydraulic jack,
and alv^ays supplement the jack with axle
1
stands positioned under the vehicle jacking
points.
When jacking up the vehicle with a trolley
Jack, position the jack head under one of the
relevant jacking points. Use a block of wood
between the jack or axle stand and the sill the block of wood should have a groove cut
into I t , In which the welded flange of the sill
^
REF.9
will locate. Do not jack the vehicle under the
sump or any of the steering or suspension
components. Supplement the jack using axle
stands (see illustrations).
Warning: Never work under,
around, or near a raised vehicle,
unless it is adequately supported
in at least two places.
A
1^1
t
Axle stands should be placed under, or
adjacMt to the jacking point (arrowed)
Disconnecting the battery
Numerous systems fitted to the vehicle
require battery power to be available at
all times, either to ensure their continued
operation (such as the clock) or to maintain
control unit memotfes which would be erased
If the battery were to be disconnected.
Whenever the battery is to be disconnected
therefore, first note the following, to ensure
that there are no unforeseen consequences of
this action:
a) First, on any vehicle with central locldng,
it is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in, if the
central locking should engage accidentally
wtien the battery is reconnected.
b) Depending on model and specification,
the Vauxhall anti-theft alarm system may
be of the type which is automatically
activated when the vehicle battery Is
disconnected and/or reconnected.
To prevent the alarm sounding on
models so equipped, switch the
ignition on, then off, and disconnect
the battery wiOiinl 5 seconds, tfthe
alarm Is activated when the battery Is
reconnected, switch the ignition on then
off to deactivate the alann.
c) lía security-coded audio unit is fitted,
and the unit and/or the battery Is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the conect
security code is entered. Details of this
procedure, which varies according to the
unit fitted, are given in the vehicle audio
system operating Instructions. Ensure
you have the conect code before you
disconnect the battery. If you do not
have the code or details of the correct
procedure, but can supply proof of
ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, a Vauxhall/Opel
dealer may be able to help.
H) The engine management e/ecfranic
control unit Is of the 'self-learning' type,
meaning tíiat as /(operates, it also
monitors and stores ffie settings which
give optimum engine performance under
all operating conditions. When the battery
is disconnected, these settings are lost
and the ECU mverts to the base settings
programmed into its memory at the
factory. On restarting, this may lead to the
engine running/idling roughly for a short
while, until the ECU has releamed the
optimum settings. This process is t e s i
accomplished by taking tiie vehicle on a
Kiad test (for approximately ISminutes).
covering all engine speeds and loads,
concenbating mainly in the 2500 to 3500
rpm region.
}) On models equipped with automatic
transmission, tiie transmission selector
lever assembly incorporates an
electrically-operated selector lever lock
mechanism that prevents the lever being
moved out of the P position unless the
ignition is switched on and the brake
pedal is depressed. If the selector lever
is in the P position and (he battery is
disconnected, it will not be possible to
move tiie selector lever out of position
P by the nornial means. Although It Is
possible to manually ovenide the system
(see Chapter 7B), It is sensible to move
the selector lever to the N position before
disconnecting the batteiy.
f) On models with electric windows, it will
be necessary to reprogramme the motors
to restore the one-touch function of tiie
buttons, after reconnection of the battery.
To do this, fully close both front windows.
With tiie windov^ closed, depress tiie
up button of the driver's side virindow for
approximately 5 seconds, thenre/easeit
and depress the passenger side window
up button for approximately 5 seconds.
g} On models with an electric sliding
sunroof, it will be necessary to fully open
and fully close the sunroof after battery
reconnection, to recalibrate the sensors.
h) On all mode/s, wtien reconnecting the
battery after disconnection, switch on ttie
ignition and wait 10 seconds to allow tiie
electronic vehicle systems to stabilise and
REF«io
Tools and working facilities
Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any.
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourseff. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
w\\ last for many years and prove an extremely
worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner lo decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed In this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair.
Repair and overtiaui, and Special, Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit,
and confine themselves to the simpler jobs
around the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repair fool kit can be
built up Into a Repair andoverfiau/tool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a fool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools irom the Special category when it is
felt that the expense Is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance
minor
repair
and
tool
kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other);
although more expensive than open-ended
ones, they do give the advantages of both
types of spanner.
•
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Combination spanners:
Metric -8 to 19 mm inclusive
Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)
Spark plug spanner (W/ffi rubber insert) peirof models
Sparfr plug gap adjustment tool petrol models
Set of teeler gauges
Biake bleed nipple spanner
Screwdrivers;
FlatbladeloommlongxGmmdia
Cross blade -WO mm long xBmmdla
Tone - various sizes (not ali vehicles)
Combination pliers
Hacksaw junior)
Tyre pump
Tyre pressure gauge
Oilcan
Oil filter removal tool (if applicable)
Fine emery cloth
Wire bmsh (small)
Funnel (medium size)
Sump drain plug key (not all vehicles)
Repair
overhaul
tool
kit
The tools in this list will sometimes need to
be supplemented by fools frain the Specia! list;
•
Socftefs fo caver range in previous list
(including Torx sockets)
•
Reversible ratchet drive (for use with
•
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Tone key, socket and bit
and
These tools are virtually essential for anyone
undertaking any major repairs to a motor
vehicle, and are additional to those given in
theIWa/nfenanceandm/norrepa/rllst. Included
in this list Is a comprehensive set of sockets.
Although these are expensive, they will be
found Invaluable as they are so versatile particularly if various drives are included in the
set. We recommend the half-inch square-drlva
type, as this can be used with most proprietary
torque wrenches.
Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with
Universal joint (for use with sockets)
Rexitde handle or sliding T "breaker bar"
(for use with sockets)
Torque wrench (for use with sockets)
Self-locking grips
Ball pein hammer
Soft-i^ced mallet (plastic or mbber)
Screwdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician's) types
Cross blade - long S sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
Pliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician's)
Circlip (internal and external)
CM chisel-25 mm
Scriber
Scraper
Centre-puntdi
Pin punch
Hacksaw
Brake hose clamp
Brake/clutch bleeding kit
Selection of twist drills
Steel njle/straight-edge
Allen keys (inc. spllned/Torx type)
Selection of Hies
Wire bmsh
Axle stands
Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
Ught vnm extension lead
Universal electrical multi-meter
Tools and working facilities REF- 1 1
Special
toois
The tools in ttiis list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers' instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists' club) to make a
joint purchase, or tiorrowing the toots against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist.
The followmg list contains only those
tools and instruments freely avaiiabie to the
public, and not those special tools produced
by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for
its dealer network. "Vou will find occasional
references to these manufacturers' special
tools in the text of this manual. Generaliy, an
alternative method of doing the job without
the vehicle manufacturers' special tool
is given. However, sometimes there is no
alternative to using them. Where this is the
case and the relevant tool cannot be bought
or borrowed, you will have to entrust the
work to a dealer
•
•
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•
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Angular-tightening gauge
Vaive sphng compressor
Valve gnnding tool
Piston ring compressor
Piston hng removal/installation tool
Cylinder bore hone
Balljoint separator
Coil spnng compressors (where
applicable)
Two/three-legged hub and bearing
puller
Impact screwdriver
Micrometer and/or vernier calipers
Dial gauge
Tachometer
Fault code reader
Cylinder compression gauge
Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
Clutch plate alignment set
Brake shoe steady spring cup removal
tool
Bush and beanng removal/installation
•
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StudextracUirs
7 ^ and (Se set
umgtBcMe
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Q
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OU fitter remove tool (strap wrench type)
Buying
toois
Reputable motor accessory shops and
superstores often offer excellent quality tools
at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.
Remember, you dont have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear ofthe very cheap toois.
Beware of 'bargains' offered on market stalls,
on-line or at car boot sales. There are plenty
of good tools around at reasonable prices, but
aiways aim to purchase items which meet the
relevant national safety standards. If in doubt,
ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for
advice before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance
of
tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it
is necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the toois away
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used, A simple tool rack on the garage or
workshop wall for items such as screwdrivers
and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal
spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any
measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc.
must be carefully stored where they cannot be
damaged or become rusty
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on
their blades from time To time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good finish.
Worldng
facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the worier. Tum the
steenng from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal finnly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or l e ^ s unda- pi
seats
•e applicable to
• Examine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) tor cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to oheck the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
• Seat belts with pre-tensioners, once
activated, have a "^ag" or similar showing on
the seat belt stalk. This, in itself, is not a
reason for test failure.
• The front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
• Both front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
dm Checks carried out
WTH THE CHICLE ON THE
GROUND
Vehicle
identification
C Number plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced - spacing at (A) should be at
least twice that at (B).
D Check the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
• Check the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
• Switch on the ignition and check fhe
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lighte must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause Is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster,
• Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch,
n The ARS warning light must illuminate in
nccorcance with the manufacturers' design,
t or most vehicles, the ABS warning light
linate when the ignition is switched
on, ijnri in the system is operating properly)
oxtinaijish after a tew seconds. Refer to fhe
idbook.
Footbrake
n Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
• other damage.
• The fluid reservoir must be secure and ttie
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.
Steering
and
suspension
• Have your assistant tum the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point
where the steering gear just tseglns to transmit
this movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear
or insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-sleering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
a Have your assislant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously In each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs ot wear or
damage. Qn vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
• Check that the vehicle Is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock
absorbers
n Depress each corner of the vehicle In tum,
then release It. The vehicle should rise and
then settle In its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
REF.14
MOT test checks
Exhaust
system
• start the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
W
Front and rear suspension
and
wheel
bearings
• starting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock
positions and rock gently but firmly. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mountings, pivots and attachments.
• Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o'clock and
6 o'clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check lor
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
beanng.
• The same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, conosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
• Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles
only)
C Rotate each front wheel in tum and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspensmn
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering
mechanism
component pivot point, this cai
by using a large screwdriver „. „
_.
and levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the
bolt holes can often become elongated).
D Have your assistant turn the steering from
lock fo lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
• Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of Ihe retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also checl< for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe con-osion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
M
Springs
and
shocic
absorbers
n Examine the suspension struts (when
applicable} for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
IJ If coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken,
• if leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
lion of the spring eye mountings.
bushes, and shackles.
Braliing
system
• If possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining matenal nas not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
• Examine all the ngid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for cornasion, chafing
or insecunty of Ihe pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
• Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on fhe brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components,
• Slowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
MOT test checks
C O emissions
• Examine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecuriiy ot
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
• It is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check thai the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel
and
exhaust
systems
• Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
• Examine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security ot the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
U Check the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1,6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body
corrosion
• Check the condition of the entire vehicle
stnjcture for signs cf corrosion in load-bearing
areas, (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and ail
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages,) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fall. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
• Damage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE'S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
Petrol
Wheels
and
tyres
• Examine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in tum. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and
properiy seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged,
• Check that the t ^ s are of the con-ect size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
models
• The engine should be warmed up, and
running well (ignition system in good order, air
filter element clean, etc),
• Before testing, run the engine at around
2500 rpm tor 20 seconds. Let the engine drop
to idle, and watch for smoke trom the
exhaust. If the idle speed is too high, or if
dense blue or black smoke emerges for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. Typically,
blue smoke signifies oil burning (engine wear);
black smoke means unburnt fuel (dirty air
cleaner element, or other fuei system fault).
• An exhaust gas analyser for measuring
carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons
(HO) IS now needed. If one cannot be hired or
borrowed, have a local garage perform the
check.
REF.IS
(mixture)
• The MOT tester has access to the CO
limits for all vehicles. The CO level is
measured at Idle speed, and at 'fast Idle'
(2500 to 3000 rpm). The following limits are
given as a general guide:
At Idle speed - Less than 0.5% CO
At -fast idle'- Less than 0.3% CO
Lambda reading - 0.97 to 1.03
n If the CO level is too high, this may point to
poor maintenance, a fuel Injection system
problem, faulty lambda (oxygen) sensor or
catalytic converter. Try an injector cleaning
treatment, and check the vehicle's ECU for
fault codes.
HC
emissions
• The MOT tester has access to HC limits for
all vehicles. The HC level is measured at 'fast
Idle' (2500 to 3000 rpm). The following limits
are given as a general guide:
At 'fast idle' - Less then 200 ppm
• Excessive HC emissions are typically
caused by oil being burnt (worn engine), or by
a blocked crankcase ventilation system
('breather'). If the engine oil is old and thin, an
oil change may help, if the engine is running
badly, check the vehicle's ECU for fault
codes.
Diesel
models
• Tlie only emission test for diesel engines is
measuring exhaust smoke density, using a
calibrated smoke meter. The test Involves
accelerating the engine at least 3 times to its
I unloaded speed.
Note: On engines with a liming belt, it is
VITAL that the bell is in good condition before
the test IS carried out.
• With the engine warmed up. It is first
purged by running at around 2500 rpm for
20 seconds, A governor check is then
carried out, by slowly accelerating the
engine to its maximum speed. After this, the
smoke meter is connected, and the engine Is
accelerated quickly to maximum speed three
times. If the smoke density Is less than the
limits given below, the vehicle will pass:
Non-turbo vehicles: 2.5m-1
Turbocharged vehicles: 3.0m-1
• It excess smoke is produced, try fitting a
new air cleaner element, or using an injector
cleaning treatment. If the engine is running
badly, where applicable, check the vehicle's
ECU for fault codes. Also check the vehicle's
EGR system, where applicable. At high
mileages, the injectors may require
professional attention.
REF.16
Fault finding
Engine
Engine fails to rotate wtien attempting to start
-r
Engine rotates, but will not start
; f . Engine difficult to start when coid
!-\ I Engine difficult to Start when hot
r 1 starter motor noisy or excessively-rough m engagement
. . n Engine starts, but Stops immediately
Engine idles erratically
Engine misfires at idle speed
rl
Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
•| I Engine tiesitates on acceleration
•1 ! Engine stalls
: ! Engine lacks pov^er
Engine backfires
: L Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
r. I
Engine runs-on after switching off
!
Engine noises
Cooling
system
-•
Overheating
!,[
Overcooling
I
External coolant leakage
! ~ Intemal coolant leakage
L I Corrosion
Clutch
[
Pedal travels tc floor - no pressure or v a ^ little resistance
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with ni
I I Judder as clutch is engaged
i ] Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual
and
Easytronic
transmissions
Noisy in neutral with engine mnning
Noisy in one particular gear
Difficulty engaging gears
Jumps out of gear
Vibralion
,
Uibhcant leaks
-•'•:fi]m*j|ffi^|n|M
Introduction
Fluid leakage
1 Transmission fluid bravm, or hasfciurnedsmell
'-^^•j
I Genera gear election problems
^Wjt
1 Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator
pedal fully depressed
C Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
I J Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no dnve \n
fonward or reverse gears
Drh/eshafts
r
Vibration when accelerating o
' , Clicking or knocking noise on
Braldng
system
[J Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
Z ' Noise fennding or high-pitched squeal) when bi
! ] Excessive brake pedal travel
'
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
_
, , Excessive tirake pedal effort required to stop vebrcle• Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
IJ Brakes binding
J Rear wheels locking under nonnal braking
Suspension
Fuel and exhaust
systems
•[
Excessive fuel cortsumption
Fuel leakage and'or fuel odour
Excessive noise or fumes fn^m exhaust system
;\ I
I I
• I
' ; I
C
•
The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to Ihe recommended
service schedules should not have to use
this section of the manual very often. Modern
component reliability is such that, provided
those items subject to wear or deterioration
are inspected or renewed at the specified
intervals, sudden failure is comparaliveiy rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result
of sudden failure, but develop over a period of
time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles.
Those components which do occasionally
fail without warning are often small and easily
canied in the vehicie.
and
steering
•/ Vehicle pulls to one side
•
Wheel wobble and vibration
I i Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, ft
braking
! J Wandering or general instability
_.: Excessively-stiff steering
;
Excessive play in steering
i "i Lack of power assist^ce
Electrical
system
' ! Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
: Ignilion/no-charge warning light remains illuminated iMth.enaae.
Z•
I I
• :
Ignitioivno-charge warning light fails to come on
Lights inoperative
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Windscreen wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
~ ' Windscreen washere inoperative, or unsafisfactory in operation
L_' Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operabon
•
Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
With any fauh-finding, the first step is
to decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions, a little detective work will be
necessaiy. The owner who makes half a dozen
haphazard adjustments or replacements
may be successful in curing a fault (or its
symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent
more time and money than was necessary.
A calm and logical approach will be found to
be more satisfactory in the long run. Always
take into account any warning signs or
abnormalities that may have been noticed in
the period preceding the fault - power loss,
high or low gauge readings, unusual smells.
etc - and remember that failure of components
such as fuses or spark plugs may only be
pointers to some underlying fault.
The pages which follow provide an easyreference guide to the more common problems
which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible
causes are grouped under headings denoting
various components or systems, such as
Engine, Cooling system, etc. The general
Chapter which deals with the problem is also
shown in brackets; refer lo the relevant part ot
that Chapter tor system-specific information.
Whatever the fault, certain basic principles
apply These are as follows;
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of
Fault finding
being sure that you know what the symptoms
are before starting work. This Is particularly
Important if you are Investigating a fault for
someone else, who may not have described it
very accurately.
Don'f overlook the obvious. For example,
if the vehicle won't start, is there fuel in the
tank? (Don't take anyone else's word on this
particular point, and don't trust the fuel gauge
eitherl) If an electrical fault is indicated, look
for loose or broken wires before digging out
the test gear
Cure ttie disease, no! the symptom.
Substituting a flat battery with a fully-charged
one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if
the underlying cause is not attended to, the
new battery will go the same way, Similariy,
changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set
will get you moving again, but remember that
the reason for the fouling (if It wasn't simply
an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be
established and conected.
Don '( fake anything for granted. Particularly,
don't forget that a 'new' component may itself
be defective (especially if It's been rattling
around in ttie boot for months), and don't leave
Engine
Engine
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
to rotate
when
Diesel
fault
diagnosis
The majority of starting problems Oh small
diesel engines are electrical in origin. The
mechanic who is familiar with petrol engines
but less so with diesel may be inclined to view
the diesel's injectors and pump in the same
light as the spark plugs and distributor, but
ttiis is generally a mistake.
attempting
to
start
Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (see Weekly
diecks)
Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5A)
Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5A)
Defective starter solenoid or ignition switch (Chapter 5A or 12)
Defective starter motor (Chapter 5A)
Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teetfi loose or broken (Chapter 2A,2B, 20, 2D or 5 ^
Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5A)
Engine suffering 'hydraulic lock' (eg fram water drawn into the
engine after traversing flooded roads, or from a serious intemal
coolant leak) - consult a main dealer for advice
Automatic transmission not in position P or N (Chapter 7B)
Engine
•
•
•
fails
components out of a fault diagnosis sequence
just because they are new or recently-fitted.
When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault,
you'll probably realise that all the evidence
was therefrom the start.
Consider what work, If any, has recently
been carried out Many faults arise through
careless or hurried work. For instance, if
any work has been performed under the
bonnet, could some of the wiring have tieen
dislodged or incorrectly routed, or a hose
trapped? Have all the fasteners been prciperfy
tightened? Were new, genuine parts and new
gaskets used? There is often a certain amount
of detective work to be done in this case,
as an apparently-unrelated task can have
far-reaching consequwices.
rotates,
but
will
not
start
Fuel tank empty
Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5A)
Battery terniinal connections loose or comaded (see Weekly
checks)
Ignition components damp or damaged - petrol models (Chapter 1A or 5B)
Immobiliser fault, or 'uncoded' ignition key being used (Chapter 12
Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit - petrol
models (ChapterIAor5B)
Wom, faulty or Incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1/V
Preheating system faulty - diesel models (Chapter 5A)
Fuel injection/engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C)
Air In fuel system - diesel models (Chapter 4B}
Major mechanical failure (eg timing /beltchain snapped) (Chapter 2A, 2B, 20 or 2D)
Engine
difficult
to start
when
cold
•
Battery discharged (Chapter 5A)
•
Btrttery temiinal connections loose or conoded (see Weekly cOecks)
REF.I?
When Investigating complaints of difficult
starting for someone else, make sure that
the conect starting procedure is understood
and is being followed. Some drivers are
unaware of the significance of the preheating
warning light - many modern engines are
sufficiently forgiving for this not to matter in
mild weather, but with the onset of winter,
problems begin.
As a rule of thumb, if the engine is difficult
to start but runs well when it has finally got
going, the problem Is electrical (battery,
starter motor or preheating system). If poor
performance is combined with difficult
starting, the problem is likely to be in the
fuel system. The low-pressure (supply) side
of the fuel system should be checked before
suspecting the injectors and high-pressure
pump. The most common fuel supply
problem is air getting Into the system, and
any pipe from the fuel tank forwards must
be scrutinised If air leakage is suspected.
Normally the pump is the last item to suspect,
since unless it has been tampered with, there
is no reason for it to be at fault.
Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1A]
_ Other ignition system fault - petrol models (Chapter 1A or SB)
i_l Preheating system faulty - diesel models (Chapter SA)
•
Fuel Injection/engine management sysfem fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C)
•
Wrong grade of engine oil used (Weekly cfiecAs, Chapter 1A or 1B)
•
Low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A. 2B, 2C or 2D)
n
Engine
difficult
to start when
hot
• Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1A or 1B)
•
Fuel injection/engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C)
•
Low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
Starter
motor
noisy or excessively-rough
in
engagement
L_ Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapter 2A. 2B, 2C 2D or 5A)
•
Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5A)
•
Starter motor internal components wom or damaged (Chapter 5A)
Engine
•
•
•
starts,
but
stops
immediately
Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit - petrol
models (Chapter 1A or 5B)
Vacuum leak at the throttle housing or inlet manifold - petrol
models (Chapter 4A)
Blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Engine
idles
erratically
T' Air filier element clogged (Chapter 1A or 1B)
C.I Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
•
Wom, faulty or Incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1A)
•
Uneven or low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
Camshaft lobes wom (Chapter 2A, 2B, 20 or 2D)
•
Blocked injectors/fuel Injection system feift (Chapter 4A or 4B)
REF.18
Fault finding
Engine (continued)
Engine
misfires
at idle
speed
•
Worn, faulty or Incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - patrol models
(Chapter 1A)
•
Vacuum leak at the throttie housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
•
Blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B]
•
Faulty iniectcr(s) - diesel models (Chapter 48}
•
Uneven or low cyiinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 20}
•
Disconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapter 4C}
Engine
misfires
tftroughout
the driving
speed
range
•
•
Fuelfiiterchoked(ChapterlAorlB)
Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low - petrol models
(Chapter 4A}
•
Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C}
•
Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petnal models (Chapter 4A1
• Worn, faulty or inconectiy-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1 A)
•
Faulty injectorls) - diesel models (Chapter 4B)
Zi Faulty ignition module - petrol models (Chapter 5B)
•
Uneven or low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D}
•
Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
•
Blocked catalytic converter (Chapter 4A or 4B}
•
Engine overheating (Chapter 3)
Engine
hesitates
on
acceleration
•
Worn, faulty or inconectiy-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1A!
\Z Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
G Blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B}
•
Faulty lnjector(s) - diesel models (Chapter 4B)
Engine
stalls
•
Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A!
•
Fuel filter choked (Chapfffl- 1A or IB)
•
Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low - petrol models
(Chapter 4A)
•
Fuel lank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A, 4B
or4C)
•
Blocked injectors/fuei injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
•
Faulty injector(s) - diesel models (Chapter 4B)
Engine
laclts
power
• Air filter element blocked (Chapter 1A or 1B)
•
Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1A or 1B)
•
Fuel pipes blocked or restnoted (Chapter 4A. 4B or 4C)
•
Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs - petrol models
(Chapter 1 A)
•
Engine overheating (Chapter 3)
•
Accelerator pedal position sensor faulty (Chapter 4A or 4B)
•
Vacuum leak at Ihe throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
•
Blocked injectors/fuel injeclion system fault {Chapter 4A or 4B)
n
Faulty ln|ector(s} - diesel models (Chapter 4B}
n
Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low - petrol models
(Chapter 4A)
i . Uneven or low cylinder compression (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
Blocked catalytic converter (Chapter 4A or 4B)
•
Br^esbinding(Chaptar1A,1Bor9)
•
Clutch slipping (Chapter 6)
Engine
bacltfires
: Vacuum leak at ttie throttle housing, inlet rr
)r associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A)
n
Blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A oi
3r4B}
n
Blocked catalytic converter (Chapter 4A or 4B}
]J Faulty ignition module - petrol models (Chapter 5B]
Oil pressure
running
warning
light
illuminated
with
engine
Low oil level, or incorrect oil grade (see Weekly checks)
Faulty oil pressure sensor, or wiring damaged (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C
or 2D}
I ! Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D
or2q
LH High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3}
II Oil pump pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
LI Oil pump pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
•
Engine
runs-on
after
switching
off
" ! Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D
or2E}
I 1 High engine opwating temperature (Chapter 3}
; ; Fuel injection/engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
•4C)
Engine
noises
>r knocking during acceleration or
•
•
^
_i
r I
. ,
r ;
n
Ignition system/engine management system fault - petrol models
(Chapter 1 A, 4A or 5B)
incorrect grade of spai1< plug - petrol models (Chapter 1 A)
Incomect grade of fuel (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Knock sensor faulty - petrol models (Chapter 4A or 5B)
Vacuum leak at the throttle housing, inlet manifold or associated
hoses - petrol models (Chapter 4A}
Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D
or2E)
Fuel injection/engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B
or 40)
Faulty injector(s) - diesel models (Chapter 4B}
Whistling or wlieezing noises
r I Leaking inlet manifold or throttle housing gasket - petrol models
(Chapter 4A)
n
Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe-to-man ifold joint
(Chapter 4A or 4B}
L i Leaking vacuum hose (Chapter 4A, 4B, 40 or 9)
!!,• Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
n
Partially blocked or leaking crankcase venUlation system (Chapter 4C)
Tapping or rattìing noises
•
Z
Worn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
Ancillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc) (Chapter 3, 5A, etc)
Knocking or thumping noises
," , Worn big-end beanngs (regular heavy knocking, peitiaps less
under load) (Chapter 2E)
l_i Worn main t>earings (mmbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under toad) (Chapter 2E)
LH Piston slap - most noticeable when cold, caused by piston/bore
wear (Chapter 2E)
• Ancillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc) (Chapter 3, 5A, etc)
U Engine mountings worn or defective (Chapter 2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
Front suspension or steering components worn (Ctiapter 10)
Fault finding
REF.I9
Cooling system
Overheating
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
External
Insufficient coolani in system (see Weekly checks)
Thermostat faulty (Cliapter 3)
Radiator corefciiocKed,or grille restricted (Chapter 3)
Cooling fan or cooling module faulty (Chapter 3)
Inaccurate coolant temperature sensor (Chapter 3)
Airlock in cooling system (ChapterIA, I B or3)
Expansion tank pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3)
Engine management system fault {Chapter 4A, 4B or 4i
I I
L..!
•
•
•
•
•
Internal
•
•
Overcooling
C
•
•
•
Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3)
Inaccurate coolant temperature sensor (Ch^ter 3)
Cooling fan faulty (Chapter 3)
Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B or
coolant
leakage
Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1A or 1B)
Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (ChaptwS)
Expansion lank pressure cap tajlty (Chapter lA or 1B)
Coolant pump internal seal leaking (Chapter 3)
Coolant pump g a ^ e t leaking (Chapter 3)
Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3)
Cylinder block core plug leaking (Chapter 2E)
coolant
leakage
Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A, 2B. 2C or 2D)
Cracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapter aA, 2B, 2C, 2D
or2E)
Corrosion
•
•
Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1A or 1B)
Inconect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (see
Weekly checks)
Fuel and exhaust systems
Excessive
•
•
•
n
•
•
•
fuel
consumption
Fuel
Air filter element dirty or clogged {Chapter 1A or 1B)
Fuel injection system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C)
Crankcase ventilation system blocked (Chapter 4C)
Tyres under-inflated (see WeeWychecfcs)
Brakes binding (ChapterIA, I B or 9)
Fuel leak, causing apparent high consumption
(ChapterIA, IB, 4A, 4B or4C)
leakage
and/or
fuel
odour
•
Damaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapter 4A
or4B)
•
Evaporative emissions system fault - petrol models {Chapter 4C)
Excessive
noise or fumes
from exhaust
system
•
Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapter 1A, 1B, 4A
or4B)
•
Leaking, oomoded or damaged ^lencers or pipe
(Chapter1A,1B,4Aor4B)
•
Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact
(Chapter1A,1B,4Aor4B)
Clutch
Pedal travels
resistance
to floor
- no pressure
or very
little
•
Air in hydraulic system/faulty master oi
ie cylinder (Chap-
•
•
•
•
Faulty hydraulic release system (Chapter 6)
Clutch pedal return spring detached or broken (Chapter 6)
Faulty clutch release cylinder (Chapter 6)
Broken diaptw^gm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6)
Clutch
falls to disengage
(unable
to select
gears)
• Air in hydraulic system/faulty master or release cylinder (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty hydraulic release system (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc sticking on transmission input shaft splines (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chaptw6)
Cftrtc/i slips (engine
speed increases,
with
no
increase
in vehi<^e
speed)
•
Faulty hydraulic release system (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc linings excessively wom (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6)
Judder
as clutch
is
engaged
•
Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6)
•
Clutch disc linings excessively wom (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6),
•
Worn or loose engine or transmission mountings
{Chapt^2A, 2B, 2C or 2D)
•
Clutch disc hub or transmission input shaft splines wom (Chapter 6)
Noise when depressing
or releasing
clutch
•
Faulty clutch release cylinder (Chapter 6)
•
Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 6)
•
Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6)
•
Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6)
•
Broken clutch disc cushioning springs (Chapter 6)
pedal
Fault finding
Manual and Easytronic transmissions
Note: Fault finding for the Easytronic transmission srtouW h
Jumps
to a Vauxhall/Opei dealer
r i Worn, damaged, or poorly-adjusted gearchange (Chapter 7 ^
n
Worn synchron ser units (Chapter 7A)'
•
Worn selector forks (Chapter 7A)'
Noisy
in neutral
witii
engine
running
n
Lack of oil (Chapter 7A)
C 1 Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7A)'
n
Clutch release cylinder faulty (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6)
Noisy
[
in one particular
gear
Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7 / y
Difficulty
engaging
gears
a Clutch fault (Chapter 6)
•
Worn, damaged, or pootly-adtusted gearchange (Chapter 7A)
•
U c k of oii (Chapter 7A)
•
Worn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A)*
out
of
gear
Vibration
[j
Lacit of oil (Chapter 7A)
•
Worn bearings (Chapter 7A)*
iMbricant
lealcs
r_ Leaking driveshaft or selector shaft oil seal (Chapter 7Ai
Z Leaking housing joint (Chapter 7A)*
•
Leaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7A)'Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful In isolating the cause of the condition, so
mat the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.
Automatic transmission
Note: Due to fhe complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
for the home mechanic tot properly diagnose and senrice this unit. For b) Indicator panel indicating a gear other than the one actually being
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken lo a
used.
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist IDo not
0) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
be too hasty in removing the transmission if a fault is suspected, as
d) P(K>r gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
most of the testing is carried out with the unit still fitted. Remember
Ti^nsmission
will not downshift
(kickdown)
with
that, besides the sensors specific to the transmission, many of the
accelerator
pedal fuliy
depressed
engine management system sensors described in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4 are essential to the con-ect operation ofthe transmission.
•
Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 7B)
•
Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Fluid
lealfage
i n Faulty transmission sensor or wiring (Chapter 7B)
LI Automatic transmission fluid is usually dark red in colour Fluid
U Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B)
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
Engine
will not start in any gear, or starts in
gears
blown onto the transmission by airflow.
other than Park or
Neutral
•
To detennine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-clean Ing. Drive tbe vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak tar from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
trom. The foiiowing are common areas of leakage:
a) Fluid pan
b) Dipstick lube (Chapter 7B)
c) Transmission-to-fluid cooler unions (Chapter IB)
Itansmlssion
•
fluid
brown,
or has burned
smell
Transmission fluid level low (Chapter 7B)
General
gear selection
problems
C Chapter 78 deals with checking the selector cable on automatic
transmissions. The following are common problems which may be
caused by a faulty cable or sensor
Zl Faulty transmission sensor or wiring (Chapter 7B)
I ] Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
L I Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B)
Ti-ansmission
slips,
no drive In forward
shifts roughly,
Is noisy,
or reverse
gears
or
has
Z Transmission fluid level low (Chapter 7B)
LJ Faulty transmission sensor or wiring (Chapter 7B)
•
Engine management system fault (Chapter 4A or 4B)
Note: There are many probable causes for the above problems, but
diagnosing and correcting them is considered beyond the scope of
this manual. Having checked the fluid level and all the wihng as far as
possible, a dealer or transmission spedalist should be consulted If the
problem persists.
Fault finding
REF.2I
Driveshafts
Wbratlon
when accelerating
or d e c e j
•
Worn inner constant velocity joint (Ctiapter 8)
•
Bent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8)
•
Wom intennediate shaft laearing (Chapter 8)
Clicking
or
on
full-lock)
U
•
knocking noiso
on turns
(at slow
speed
Worn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8)
Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged
gaiter (Chapter 8)
Braking system
Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the
tyres are in good condition and correctly Inflated, that the front wheel
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in
an unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the anti-lock braking system
s/iouW be referr^ (o a Vauxhall/Opel dealer for diagnosisVehicle pulls to one side under
braking
C Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated brake pads on one
side (Chapter l A , 1 B o r 9)
•
•
•
•
Seized or partially-seized brake caliper piston (Chapter 1A. IB or 9)
A mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides
(ChapterIA, I B or 9)
Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9)
Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapter 1A, I B or 10)
N o / s e (grinding
or high-pitohad
squeal)
when
•
Brake pad wear sensor Indtoating wom brake pads (Chapter 1A, 1B
or 9)
•
Brake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing
(Chapter 1A,1Bcr 9)
C! Excessive corrosion cf brake disc (may be apparent after the
vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapter 1 A. 1B or 9)
•
Foreign ob/ect (stone chipping, etc) trapped between brake disc
and shield (Chapter 1 A, 1B or 9)
Excessive
brake
pedal
travel
•
Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9)
•
Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 1 A, 1B, 6 or 9)
LI Faulty vacuum servo unrt (Chapter 9)
Brake pedal feels spongy
when
depressed
n Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 1 A, 1B, 6 or 9)
•
Deteriorated flexible njbber brake hoses (Chapter lA, 1B or 9)
C.J Master cyHnder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9)
•
Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9)
Excessive
vehicle
brake
pedal
effort
required
to
stop
r "I Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9)
n
Faulty vacuum pump - diesel models (Chapter 9)
•
Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapter 9)
L J Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9)
U Seized brake caliper piston (Chapter 9)
I J Brake pads incomectly fitted (Chapter 9)
LJ incon-ect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 9)
_• Brake pad linings contaminated (Chapter 1 A, I B or 9)
Judder
when
felt through
braking
brake
pedal
or steering
wheel
Note: Under heavy braking on vehicles equipped with ABS, vibration
may be felt through the brake pedal. This is a nonnal feature of ABS
operation, and does not constitute a fault
•
Excessive oin-out or distortion ot discs (Chapter 1 A, IB or 9)
•
Brake pad linings worn (Chapter 1 A, I B or 9)
n Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9)
[J Wear In suspension or steering components or mountings
(ChapterIA, I B or 10)
•
Front wheels out of balance (see Weekly checks)
Brakes
binding
•
Seized brake caliper piston (Chapter 9)
•
Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9)
Rear
wheels
locking
under
normal
braking
•
Rear brake pad linings contaminated or damaged (Chapter 1 or 9)
•
Rear brake discs warped (Chapter 1 or 9)
REF.22
Fault finding
Suspension and steering
Noter Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, tie sure that ttie
trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, or
tending brakes.
Excessively-stiff
Vehicle pulls to one
side
•
Defective tyre (see IVeeWy Czechs)
n Excessive wear In suspension or steenng components (Chapter1A,1Bor10)
•
Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10)
CI Accident damage to steenng or suspension components (Chapter 1A or IB)
•
•
n
Wheel
wobble
and
vibration
r I front wheels out of balance (vibration feit mainly through the
steering wheel) (see Weekiy cfiecks)
C l^ear wheels out of laalance (vibration felt throughout the vehicle)
(see Weekly checks)
•
Roadwheels damaged or distorted (see Weekly checks)
•
Faulty or damaged tyre (see Weekly checks)
•
Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter lA, IB or 10)
•
Wheelboltsloose(ChapterlAorlB)
Excessive
or during
n
•
•
pitching
braking
and/or
roiling
around
corners,
Defective shocK absorbers (Chapter 1 A, 1B or 10)
Broken or weak spring and/or suspension component (Chapter 1A, I B or 10)
Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 1A, IB
or 10)
V^ndaring
or general
instability
[ I Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10)
n Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 1A, IB or 10)
•
Roadwheels out of balance (see l-VeeWy checks)
•
Faulty or damaged tyre (see Weekly checks)
•
Wheel bolts loose (Chapter 1A or IB)
•
Defective shock absort>ers (Chapter 1 A, 1B or 10)
•
Power steering system fault (Chapter 10)
steering
Seized steenng linkage balljoint or suspension t>alijoint (Chapter 1A, I B or 10)
Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10)
Steehng rack damaged (Chapter 10)
Power steering system fault (Chapter 10)
Excessive
play In
steering
•
Wom steehng column/intermediate shaft joints (Chapter 10)
n Wom track rod balljoints (Chapter 1A, I B o r l O )
Z Worn steering rack (Chapter 10)
1 I Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 1 A, I B or 10}
L a c l r of power
assistance
' I Power steering system fault (Chapter 10)
L I Faulty steering rack {Chapter 10)
Tyre wear
excessive
Tyres worn on inside or outside edges
M Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges} (see Weekly checks)
LJ Inconect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only}
(Chapter 10)
I I Wom steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter1A,1Bor10)
U Excessively-hard cornering or braking
U Accident damage
Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges
Z_ Inconect toe-setting (Chapter 10)
Tyres wom in centre of tread
•
Tyres over-inflated (see Weekly checks)
Tyres worn on inside and outside edges
IJ Tyres under-inflated (see Weekly checks)
Tyres wom unevenly
LI
[ "!
C
•
Tyres/wheels out of balance (see Weekly checks)
Excessive wheel or tyre run-out
Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 1 A, 1B or 10)
Faulty tyre (see Week^ checte)
Electrical system
Note; For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the
faults listed under 'Engine' earlier in this Section.
Ignition/no-charge
illuminated
with
Battery
will not hold a charge
for more than a few
days
[
Battery defective internally (Chapter 5A}
L i Battery terminal connections loose or corroded {see Weekly checks)
r I Auxiliary drivebelt worn or faulty automatic adjuster (Chapter 1A
or IB)
•
Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5A)
[J Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5A}
•
Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapter 5A or 12)
•
warning
iight i
engine
running
la/ns
Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or or faulty automatic adjuster
(Chapter 1A or IB}
I I Intemal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5A}
L I Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chapter 5A or 12)
Ignition/no-charge
warning
light
fails
to come
I I Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 121
r i Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring In warning light circuit
(Chapter 5A or 12)
•
Alternator faulty (Chapter
on
Fault finding
REF.23
Electrical system (continued)
Ughts
inoperative
•
•
•
•
•
Bulb blown (Chapter 12)
Conoslon of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12)
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty switch (Chapter 12)
Instrument
readings
inaccurate
or
erratic
Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous
maximum reading
Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapter 3 or 4)
•
Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty gauge (Chapter 12)
Horn
inoperative,
or unsatisfactory
In
operation
Horn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 12)
•
Hom cable-to-hom push earthed (Chapter 12)
•
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
•
Cable or connections loose, bnsken or disconnected (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty horn (Chapter 12)
Hom fails to operate
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound
or
unsatisfactory
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly
•
•
•
•
•
Wipw blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding
(Chapter 12)
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
Battery discharged (Chapter 5A)
Cable or connections loose, broken or disconnectea (Chapter 12)
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
Faultywipermotor(Chapter12)
Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
the glass
•
Wiper blades inconectly frtted, or wrong size used (see Weekly
checks)
•
Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 12)
•
Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12)
•
Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12)
Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively
•
•
•
•
or
•
Blocked washer jet
•
Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12)
•
Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (se© We^ly checks)
•
•
•
•
Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12)
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12)
Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12)
Washer pump mns for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets
in
Window glass will only move in one direction
•
•
inoperative,
operation
•
Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12)
Electric
windows
inoperative,
or unsatisfactory
operation
Hom operates all the time
[ I Cable connections loose (Chapter 12)
LI Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty hom (Chapter 12)
Windscreen
wipers
inoperative,
in
operation
washers
in
One o r more w a s h e r jets inoperative
Washer pump fails to operate
Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading
•
Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapter 3 or 4)
• Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty gauge (Chapter 12}
•
Windscreen
unsatisfactory
Wiper blade rubbers dirty, worn or perished (see Weekly checks)
Wiper blades incon-ecfly fitted, or wrong size used (see Weekly
checks)
Wiper ami tension springs broken, or ann pivots seized (Chapter 12)
Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road
film (see Weekly checks)
•
Faulty switch (Chapter 12)
•
•
Battery discharged (Chapter 5A)
Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication (Chapter
11)
•
Door intemal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11)
•
Faulty motor (Chapter 11)
Window glass slow to move
Window
glass falls to move
•
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
•
Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12)
•
Fauttymotor(Chapter11)
Central
locking
system
inoperaUve,
or
unsatisfactory
in
operation
C o m p l e t e s y s t e m failure
•
Remote handset battery discharged, where applicable (Chapter 1A
or IB)
•
Blown fuse (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
•
Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty motor (Chapter 11)
Latch locks but will not unlocic, or unlocks but will not lock
•
•
•
Remote handset battery discharged, where applicable (Chapter 1A
or IB)
Faulty master switch (Chapter 12)
Broken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter
11)
•
Faulty relay (Chapter 12)
•
Faulty motor (Chapter 11)
One solenoid/motor falls to operate
•
•
•
•
Bmken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12)
Faulty operating assembly (Chester 11)
Broken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 11)
Faunindoorlatch(Chapter1l]
REF.26
Glossary of technical terms
ABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
Incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in Ihe
steering wheel (driver's side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the driver
and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air fitter element The actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-selze compound
A coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subiected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
Anti-selze compound
A natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.
Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
Iransmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
Air filter
WIen key A hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
Alternator A component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
ctiarge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
Alternator (exploded view)
Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealer A substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widelv used.
A substance (usually ethyli
with V
:ol) r
J to
. cooling system, to prevent freezing
coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to Inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits that
Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearing The bearing in the end of
fhe connecting rod that's attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air, Aso called a bleed screw.
Axle assembly
Axleahaft A single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshafl.
An anti-friction beanng
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.
Brake bleeding
Brake bleeding Procedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake disc The component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake drum The component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake Ilnlngs The friction matenal which
contacts the brake disc or dnjm to retard the
vehicle's speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake pads The replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
dnjm during braking.
Braking systems For more information on
braking systems, consult fhe Haynes
Automotive Brake l^anual.
Breaker bar A long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
Bulkhead The insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
Caliper The non-rotating part ot a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and cames
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied, A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be
set to measure inside or outside din
of an object.
Glossary of technical terms
Camshaft A rotating shaft on w
of cam lobes operate the valve i
The camshaft may be driven by gears, b]
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and i
belt.
Canister A container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
Charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
Canister
Carburettor A device which mixes fuel with
air In the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
Intemal combustion engine.
Catalytic converter A siiencer-like device in
tho exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful
Catalytic converter
Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed In a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits
into a groove on the outsiae ot a cylindrical
piece such as a shaft.
Clearance The amount ot space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coll spring A spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
Compression Reduction in volume, and
increase In pressure and temperature, of a
gas. caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratio The relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) joint A type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal
device inserted in a hole in a casting through
which core was removed when the casting
was formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug,
Crankcase The lower part of the engine
block In which the crankshaft rotates.
Crankshaft The main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset "throws" to which the connecting
lods are attached.
Castellated nut
Ceslor In wheel alignment, the backward o
forward tilt cf the steering axis. Castor U
positive when the steering axis is Inclines
rearward at the top.
Crankshaft assembly
REF»27
Crocodile clip See Alligator clip
Diagnostic code Code numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used tc determine the area In the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brake A brake design Incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle Into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC) An engine
that uses two overhead camshatts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves,
Drlvebelt(s)
The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc, oft the crankshaft pulley.
Accessoiy drivebelts
Driveshaft
Any shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used wtien referring to the
; front wheel drive vehicle.
Drivesliaft
Drum brake A type of brake using a drumshaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
REF.2B
Glossary of technical terms
to introduce extiaust
Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
electrode In a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assemblv in a conventional oointstype ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor cr rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
Gasket Any thin, soft mateoal - usually cork,
cardboanJ. asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces tc ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
EGR valve
Electronic control unit (ECU) A computer
which controls (tor instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more Information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brake
A braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle it
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake peda! isn't
depressed, tt usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.
Endfloat
The amount of lengthwise
movement Iwtween two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS] A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifold
A part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
Feeler blade
Firing order The order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
Free play The amount of travel before any
action takes place. The "looseness" in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
Fuse An electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The
typical fuse contains a soft piece of metal
which is calibrated to melt at a predetermined
current flow (expressed as amps) and break
the circuit.
Fusible link A circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.
Gap The distance the spark must travel Ir
Jumping fnam the centre electrode to thi
Fan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine tan
Speeds In relation to engine speeds.
Adjusting sparli plug
Gasket
Gauge An instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions, A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale Is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a
readout Is called a digital gauge.
H
Halfshaft A rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancer A device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
Hone An abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappet A tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine's
lunricaiion system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valvo stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
In valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
ve noise.
Ignition timing The moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
nisTon reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifold A tube or housing with
through which flows the air-fuel
mixturi! (carburettor vehicles and vehicles
with throttle body injection) or air only ftiort
luei iniected vehicles] to the port openings In
the cylinder head.
Glossary of technical terms
Jump start Starting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weal< battery by
attaching jump leads irom the weak batlmy to
a charged or helper battery.
Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)
A brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
canied by the rear axle.
Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position,
Lockwasher A form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
M
MacPherson
strut
A type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut an integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modem so-called MacPherson
strot systems use a conventional iower A-arm
and don't rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
Multimoter An electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
N
NOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
Ohm The unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm wilt
produce a current of one amp.
Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-rlng A type of sealing ring made of a
special robber-like material; in use, the O-ring
Is compressed into a groove to provide the
g action.
Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overtwad valve (ohv) engine An engine with
the vaives located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located \n the engine block.
Oxygen sensor A device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
Phillips screw A t ^ e of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver,
Plastlgage A thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip ot Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
cnjshed stnp indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
REF-29
Rocker arm A lever ann that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Rotor In a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer temiinals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stater. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
Runout The amount of wobble |Jn-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it's rotated.
The ^ o u n t a shaft rotates "out-of-tme." The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
Sealant A liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lamp An older headlight
design which integrates the refiector, lens and
filaments into a hermetic ally-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament bums out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that's used on some
newer vehicles fo drive ali the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts ate usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
Propeller shaft The long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valve A hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
Rack-and-pinion steering
A steering
system with a pinion gear on the end of the
steering shaft that mates with a rack (think of
a geared wheel opened up and laid flat).
When the steering wheel is turned, the pinion
turns, moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system,
H 12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance lhat is considered less harmful to
the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Serpentine drivebelt
Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims insetted info or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness ot the shim.
Slide hammer A special puiier that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or beating; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
Sprocket A tooth or projection on the
periphery ot a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
REF'30
Glossary of technical terms
Starter intiibitor swLtct) On vehicles wllh an
automatic transmission, a switch that
prevents starting it the vehicle is not in Neutral
or Parli.
Strut See MacPherson stnjt.
Tappet
A cylindrical component which
transmits motion from the cam to the valve
stem, either directly or via a pushrod and
rocker arm. Also called a cam follower.
Thennostat A heat-controlled valve that
regulates the flow of coolant between the
cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining
optimum engine operating temperature. A
thermostat Is also used in some air cleaners in
which the temperature is regulated.
Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutch
assembly that is moved in to the release
levers by clutch pedal action to disengage the
clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.
Timing belt A toothed belt which drives the
camshaft. Serious engine damage may result
if it breaks in service.
Timing chain A c h ^ n which drives the
camshaft.
Toe-in The amount the front wheels are
closer together at fhe front than at the rear.
On rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount
of toe-in Is usually specrtied to keep the front
wheels running parallel on the road by
offsetting other forces that tend to spread the
wheels apart.
Toe-out The amount the front wheels are
closer together at the rear than at the front.
On tront wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount
of toe-out is usually specified.
Tools For full Information on choosing and
using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive
Tools ManualTracer A stripe of a second colour applied to
a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from
another one with the same colour insulator.
Tune-up A process of accurate and careful
adjustments and parts replacement to obtain
the best possible engine performance.
Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven by
exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.
Normally used to increase the power output
from a given engine displacement, but can
also be used primarily to reduce exhaust
emissions [as on VW's "Umwelt" Diesel
engine).
may be started, stopped, or regulated by a
movable part that opens, shuts, or partially
obstructs one or more ports or passageways.
A valve is also the movable part of such a
device.
Valve clearance The clearance t>etween the
valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the
rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is
measured when the valve is closed.
Vernier caliper
A precision measuring
instrument that measures inside and outside
dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a
micrometer, but more convenient.
Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or its
resistance to flow.
Volt
A unit tor expressing electrical
"pressure" in a circuit. One volt that will
produce a current of one ampere through a
resistance of one ohm.
U
W
Welding
Universal joint or U-joint A double-pivoted
connection for transmitting power from a
driving to a driven shaft through an angle. A
U-joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a
cross-shaped member called the spider.
Valve A device through which the flow of
liquid, gas. vacuum, or loose material In bulk
Various processes used to join
metal items by heating the areas to be joined
to a molten state and fusing them together.
For more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Welding Manual.
Wiring diagram A drawing portraying the
components and wires in a vehicle's electrical
system, using standardised symbols. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems
Manual.
Index
REF-31
Note: References througtiout tNs index are in the fomi •Chapter number" • "Page number". So, far example. 2C*15 relets to page 15 al ChapterZH.
A-pillar trim panel - 11 -23
Absolute pressure sensor - 4A*12
Accelerator pedal/position sensor - 4A»3, 4B*4
Accessory shops - REF»7
Acknowledgements - 0-4
Adaptive Forward Lighting (AFL) headlight - 1 2 - 6
Aerial-12*15
AircondJtioningsystem-3*12. 3*13
service ports-3»13
switch-12»4
Air dtstributlon housing - 3>12
Air(ilter-1A»14,1B»12, 4A»3, 4B»4
Air Intake ducts ~ 4A»3, 48*4
Airvents-3.9,11-29
A i r b a g s - 0 . 5 , 12-16
Airflow meter - 4A'8, 4A-12, 4B»5
Alarm system - 12'15
Alternator - 5A-6, 5A"B
Antifreeze - 0«12. O-l?. 1A-14,1B«12
Anti-lock Braking-9»15
Anti-roll b a r - 1 D - n , 10-15
Anti-theft alarm system - 12-15
Asbestos - 0-5
Ashtray Illumination-12-8
Automatic transmission - 7B-1 et seq
fault finding-REF-20
fluid-C.17, 7B-2
Auxiliary control arm - 1 0 - 1 4
Auxiliary drfvebelt-1A*12,18*10
tensioner - 5A-5
Axle b o d y - 1 0 - 1 5
B
B-pillar trim panel-11-24
Badges-11-21
Balance s h a f t - 2 B - 1 6
chain and sprockets - 2B-9, 2B-10
chain tensioner - 2B-7
B a t t e r y - 0 - 5 , 0 - 1 5 . 5A-3. REF-9
remote control-1 A-13,1B-11
Big-end beaHngs - 2E-15
Bleeding
brakes-9-2
clutch-6-2
fuel system - 4B-4
power steering fluid - 1 0 - 1 7
Blower m o t o r - 3 - 1 0 , 3 - 1 1
switch-12-4
Body electrical systems - 12*1 etseq
Bodywork and fittings - 11 -1 ef seq
corrosion-REF.15
damage- 1A-10,1B'8
Bonnet-11-6
Boost pressure sen SOT - 4B-6
Boot l l d - 1 1 - 1 6
centre trim panel - 1 1 -26
Braking system - 1 A - 1 1 , 9 - 1 et seq. REF-12, REF-13, REF-I
calipers - 1A-9.1B-8, 9-9. 9-10
discs-1A-9,18-8. 9-8
fault finding - REF-21
fluid-0-13, 0-17,1A»13, 1B-11
pads-1A-9,1B-8, 9-4, 9-7
pipes and hoses - 1A-9, 1B
B u l b s - 12'4, 12-8
Bumpers-11-4,11-5
Buying spare parts - REF-7
C-pHlartrim panel-11-25
Cables
bonnet release-11-6
gear selector - 7A-6
gear selector - 7B-3,78-4,9-14
Calipers- 1A-9,18*8, g»9, 9-10
Camshafts - 2A-12, 28-11. 2C-10, 2D-10
chain and sprc>ckets - 2B-8,2B-9
chain lensioner - 28*6
cover - 2A-5, 2B-4, 2C-5
housing - 2D-9
oil seals - 2A-11, 2C-9,2D-9
sensor-4A-8, 4A-9, 4A-12, 4B-6
sprockets - 2 A - 9 , 2A-10. 2C-7. 2D-7
Carpets-11-2
Catalytic converter - 4A-15,4B-17,4C-3,4C-5
temperature sensor - 4C-3
CD player-12-14
Centre console - 1 1 * 2 7
Chain tensioner and guide rails - 2B*8
Changeover flap actuator drive - 4B'14
Charcoal canister - 4C-2
Charge (boost) pressure sertsor - 4B-6
Charging - 5A-3, 5A.5
Cigarette lighter-12-12
illumination - 12-8
Clutch-6^^ etseq
fault finding-REF-19
fluid-0*13, 0-17,1A.8, 1A.13, 1B-11
module (Easytronic transmission) - 7C-4
Colt spring-10*13
.n test - 2A*4, 28*3, 2C-3, 2D-3
)r-3*13
Condenser-3* 14
Connecting rods-2E*12, 2E-14. 2E-18
Console-11-27
Control arm - 10-13,10-14
Conversion lactors - REF-6
Coolant-Q-1?, 0-17, 1A-13,1B-11
pump - 3-7
temperature sensor - 3-6
Cooling, heating and air conditmning systems - 3*1 etseq
fault finding-REF-19
Cornering bulb - 1 2 - 6
Corrosion protection - 1A*10,1B*8
Courtesy I i 9 h t - 1 2 * 8
Crankcase emission control - 4C»2, 4C-3
Crankshaft-2E-13, 2E-15, 2E*17
oil seals-2A*19, 28*16, 2C-15,2D-15
position sensor ~-4A*9
pulley - 2A-6, 28-4, 2C-6, 2D-5
sensor-4A.8,4A-12,4B-6
sprocl?5
Dents-11*2
Depressurisation fuel injecthon system - 4A«3
Diesel engine fault finding - REF-17
Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
1.9 litre DOHC - 2D'1 ef seq
1.9 litre SOHC - 2C»1 et seq
Diesel injection equipment - 0»5, 4B»3
Differential pressure sensor - 4C»4
Dimensions - REF-1
Dipped beam - 12*4,12-6
Disconnecting the battery - REF»9
Discs-1A»9.1B»8, 9*8
Doors - 11 -7,11 »9,11 • ! 3, REF»13
Drivebelt-1A»12,18*10
ten^oner - 5A-S
Driveplate-2B-16, 20-15
Driver's side lower trim panel - 11 «30
Driveshafts - 1A»9, 1B>8, 8-1 efseq, REF«14
fault finding - REF»21
gaiters-8»4
oil seals-7A.7. 7B.6, 7C-4
Drivetraln-1A.11
Earth f a u l t - 1 2 . 2
Easytronic tran
^-7C^^ et seq
fault finding - REF-20
011-0*17, 7C»2
EGR valve-4C»3, 4C»4
heat exchanger - 4C»4. 4C»5
Electric s h o c k - 0 * 5
Electricalsy8tems-0*16,1A-11.1B-8, REF»13
fault finding -12«2, REF»22, REF«23
Electro-hydraulic power Steering (EHPS) supply unit-10*18
Electronic control unit (ECU)
ABS-9.16
automatic transmission - 7B»7
fuel system - 4A»8, 4A'9, 4A.12, 4B.7
Emission confro/systems- 1AM4,1B-12. 4C'1 ef seq, REF-IS
Engine codes - REF*7
Engine o i l - 0 - 1 2 . 0'17,1A»7,1B»6
Engine reconditioners - REF»7
Engine removal and overhaul procedures - 2E*1 etseq
fault finding - REF-17, REF'18
Environmental considerations - REF*8
n control-4C«2
ir-3-13
Exhaust
IS - 1A.1 1B.12, 4C'2, 4C»3
Exhaust
recirculation system - 4C»2,4C«3, 40*4
Exhaust
iifOld-4A-14, 4B"15
Exhaust specialists - REF«7
Exhaust system - 1A»10,1B»8, 4A»15, 4B«17, REF»14, REF«15
Facia panel-11*28
switches-12«4
braking system-REF*21
clutch-REF»19
cooling system - REF*19
diesel engine-REF'17
driveshafts - REF«21
Easytronic transmission - REF«20
electrical system - 1 2 * 2 , REF»22, REF-23
engine-REF.17, REF*18
fuel and exhaust systems - REF»19
manual transmission - REF»20
suspension and steering - REF'22
Filling-11*3
Filter
air- 1A-14,1B»12, 4A«3, 4B»4
fuel-1A«16,1B«7,1B«8,4B»5
oil - 1A*7,1B«6,2C«14, 2D»15
particulate - 4B»17,4C«3, 4C»4
pollen-1A»11,1B«8
Fii»-0>5
nuid c o o l e r - 7 B . 6
Fluids-0.17
leaks-1A.8,1B.7
Flywheel - 2A.19. 2B.16, 2C.16, 2D.15
Foglight-12-6, 12.9
Followers - 2A-12, 2B.11, 2C.1D, 2D.12
Footwell trim panel - 11 -24, 11.29
Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel engines - 4B.1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems - petrol engines - 4A> 1 ef seq
fault finding - REF'ig
Fuel economy - REF.2 et seq
Fuelfilter-1A.16, IB-S
crasin box - 4B.5
water draining - 1B'7
Fuel gauge sender unit - 4A.4. 4B'4
Fuel injection systems - 4A.6, 4A-7, 4B.3
electrical components - 4B.5
Fuel Injectors - 4A.7, 4A.8, 4A.10, 4B*10
Fuel pressure regulator - 4A.11, 4B.6
Fuel pressure sensor - 4A.11. 4B.6
Fuel pump - 4B-4. 4B.7. 4A.5, 4A.11
Fuel pump sprocket - 2C*8, 2D.7
Fuel rail - 4A.7, 4A.8, 4A.10. 4B.8
Fuel s y s t e m - R E F . l 5
Fuel t a n k - 4 A - 5 . 4B.5
Fume or gas intoxication - 0.5
Fuses-12'3
Gaiters
drive^afts - 8*4
steering gear-10«19
Garages - REF.7
Ga^es-11*3
Gaskets - REF.8
of technical terms - BEF.26 ef seg
Index
Note: References tfirougfiout this Index are in the forni "Chapter number" • "Page number". So, for example, 2C*1S ref&s to page 15 ofChapter2G.
Glovebox-11-28
light-12.9
Glow plugs (diesel engine models) - 5A-11
Grille - 11-20
H
Halogen headlight - 1 2 - 4
Handbrake - 9-13, 9-14.9-15, REF-12
Handles (doors) - 11-9
Headlight- 12-4, 12-9
beam alignment - lA-11,1B-8,12-11
Heatshield(s)-4A-15, 4B-17
Heated rear window switch ~ 12-4
Heated seat components - 12-16
Heater/ventllatlon system - 3-9
blower motor-3-10,3-11
contnsl assembly-3-12
matrix-3-11
motor switch-12-4
High-level stop-fight-12-7,12-10
High-pressure diesel Infection system - 4
High-pressure fuel pump - 4A-11, 4B-7
sprocket-2C-8, 2D-7
Hinge lubrication - 1 A-11,16-8
Horn-12-12
H o s e s - 1A-9,1B-8, 3-2, 9-3
leaks-1A-8,1B-7
Hub-10-4
ls-10-6,10-11
Hydraulic modulator (ABS) - 9-16
Hydrofluoric acid - 0-5
Identifying l e a k s - 0 * 9
Idler pulleys - 2A-10, 2A-11, 2C-9, 2D»8
Ignition switch-10-16
Ignition system - petrol engines - 56-1 ef seg
Indicators - 12-5. 12-6,12-9
Information display u n i t - 1 2 - 1 2
Injectors - 4A-7, 4A-8, 4A-10, 4B*10
Inlet manifold - 4A-12,4B-12
changeover flap actuator drive-4B»14
Input shaft
oil seal - 7A.7
speed sensors-7B»7
Instmment panel - 12-12
Intake ducts - 4A-3, 4B-4
lntercooler-4B»14
Intermediate shaft - 8-3.8-4
Jacking and vehicle support - REF-g
Joint mating faces - REF-8
Jump starting - 0*7
K
Knock sensor - 4A-8, 4A*9,4A*12
I
|_
l^akdowm test - 2C*3, 2D-3
Leaks-0*9, lA-8- 1B-7
Light u n i t s - 1 2 - 9
Lighting switch-12*3
Locknuts, locktabs and washers Locks
bonnet-11*6
bootlid-11»16
doors-11-9
lubrication-1A-11, 1B-8
selector lever - 7B'6
steering column-10-16
tailgate-11-18
Lower a m i - 1 0 - 8
Lower control anm - 1 0 - 1 3
Lubricants and fluids - 0*17
Luggage compartmmt
lighl-12*8
iower side trim panel - 11 *25
M
Main beam-12*5,12-6
Main bearlng8-2E-15
ManffoW absolute pressure sensor - 4 A * i :
Manifokis
exhaust-4A-14,46*15
inlet-4A*12,4B-12,46*14
Manual transmission - 7A*1 ei seq
fault finding-REF-20
o i l - 0 - 1 7 , 7A*3
Master cylinder
brake-9-11
clutch-6-3
Matrix-3-11
Minx)rs-11*19,11*26, REF-12
switch-12*4
MUed air valve servo motor - 3-11
MOT test checks - REF-12 et seq
Motor factors-REF*7
Mountings- 2A-20, 28*17, 2C-16, 2D*15
N
Number plate light - 12-7,12*10
Easytronic transmission - 0-17,7C-2
engine-0-12, 0*17,1A*7,1B-6
manual transmission - 0-17, 7A-3
OiIoontroJvahre8-2A.11
Oil filter - 1A*7,1B-6, 2C-14
housing-2D-15
01) level sensor-5A-10
OK pressure warning light switch - 5A-10
Oil pump - 2A-17, 2B-15, 2C-13,2D-14
Oil seals - 2A-11, 2A-19, 2B*16, 2C*9, 2C*15, 2D-9, 2D-15, 7A*7,
7B*6, 7C*4, REF-8
REF«34
Index
Note: References throughout this in
Open-circuit-12>2
Output shaft speed s
Oxygen sensor - 4C«3
Pad8-1A»9,1B*8, 9 . 4 . 9 . 7
Particulatefilter-4B.17, 40*3
temperature sensor - 40*4
Parts - REF'7
Pedals
accelerator - 4A.3, 4B.4
brake-9.11
clutch-6.5
Petml angine in-car repair procedures
Ï.Ôff(re-2A.1 etseq
2.2/ftre-2B*1 etseq
Pipes-1A.9, I B . 8 , 9 . 3
Piston rings -2E>16
Pistons - 2E.12, 2E.14, 2E.18
Plastic components - 11 » 3
Poisonous or Irritant substances - 0*5
Pollen f i l t e r - 1 A . 1 1 , 1 B-S
Power steering lluid -0-17,10«17
Power steering supply unit - 10*18
Pre/post-heating system - SA-fl
control unit- 5A.12
Priming and bleeding fuel system - 4B.4
Project vehicles - 0*4
Pulleys - 2A.6, 2A.10, 2A.11, 2B.4. 2C.6, 2G.9, 20*5, 20-8
Puncture repair - 0.8
Purge valve - 40*3
Q
R
Quarter window glass - 1
Radiator - 1 A.14,1 B ' l 1, 3*2
grille-11*20
Radio-12*14
aerial-12*15
Rear light c1uster-12*6,12*10
Rear quarter window glass - 11*16
Bear window switch - 12*4
Receiver-dryer-3-15
Recirculating air valve - 3*11
Regulator (window)-11.13
Relays- 12.3
Release cylinder - 6*4
Remote control battery- 1A.13,1B.11
Repair procedures - REF.8
Respraying - 11.3
Reversing light switch - 7A*7
Roadte8t-1A.11,1B.8
nber" . 'Page number'. So, for example. 2C*15 refersto page 15 of Chapter 2C.
Roadside repairs - 0.6 etseq
Roadwheel bolt tightness check - 1A*10,18*8
Routine maintenance - bodywork and underframe - 11 ' 2
Routine maintenance - uptiolstery and carpets - 11*2
Routine maintenance and servicing - diesel models - I B ' I ef seq
Routine maintenance and servicing - petrol models - 1A.1 etseq
Rust h o l e s - 1 1 * 3
Safety firsti - 0 . 5 , O'lS
Scalding - 0.5
Scratches-11.2
Screw threads and fastenings - REF*8
Seat belts-11*22
Seats-11*21
heated-12*16
Selector cables - 7A*6, 78*3, 76*4
Selector l e v e r - 7 B . 5 . 70*2
lock SWFitch - 7B.6
position s w i t c h - 7 B . 6
Semi-automatic clutch - G*2
Service interval Indicator-1A.11, 1B*8
Shift module-7C>2
Shock absorber - l O ' U . REF*13, REF*14
Short-circuit-12.2
Sldeafrbags-12.17
SldeHght-12*5,12.6
sm Innertrim panel-11-24
Simtec 71.5 Injection system - 4A*7
Simteo 75.t injection system - 4A«8
SimtecSI.I injection system-4A-10
Spare parts - REF-7
Spark p l u g s - 1A-15
Speakers-12.15
Springs-10.13, REF-14
Sprockets - 2A>9, 2B-a, 2C-7, 2D-7
Starting and charging systems - SA-I et seq
Start-up after overhaul - 2E-20
Steering - 1A.9, l A - 1 1 , IB-B, REF.13, REF.14
angles-10.20
Steering column -10*16, REF*12
lock-10*16
shrciuds-11*30
switches-12*3
Steering gear-10*18
gaiters-10*19
Steering wheel-10*15, REF*12
switches-12*4
Stop-light-12.7,12*10
switch-9*14
Stmt
bootlid-11*16
suspension - 10*7
tailgate-11*17
Index
Note: References throughout this index are in the form "Chaptw raimbor" • "Page number". So, tor example,
Subframe-10*9
Sump -2A*16,2B«14, 2C»12.2D*14
Simroof-11«20
Suspension and steenng - 1A»9, 1A«10. 1A«11.1B»8, 10*1 ef seq,
REF.13, REF.14
fault finding - REF"22
Switches ~12»3
handbraluesenberg to curiosities Uke the
bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps you remember the 1959 Ford
Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificenc'Red Collection'is a spectacle of classic sports cais
including AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserab, MG, Riley, Porsche and Triumph.
A Perfect
Day
Out
Each and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the history and culture of
Motoring. Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Biing the kids, bring
Mum and Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find
an impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat video cinema and one of the most
extensive transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves everything from a cup of tea to
wholesome, home-made meak or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the beautiful
rural surroundings of Somerset.
JohnmyxesO.B.V.,
Chairman oj the I
mu^m at the wheel |
Graham Hill's Lola
Cosv/orth Formula I
car next (0 a 1934
AFEY Sports,
im is simated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A3D3 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of B
35 minutes drive horn the M3 intersection at Taunton.
0pm 9.30am - 5.30pm (10,00am - 4,00pm Winter) 7
a week, except Otristmos Day, Boxing Day and New yean; Day
Special rates available for schools, coach parties and curings Charitable Tnist No. 292048
SEE HAYNES, SEE HOW
W r i t t e n f r o m h a n d s - o n e x p e r i e n c e g a i n e d f r o m the
complete strip-down and
rebuild o f several Vauxhall V e c t r a s in o u r Project W o r k s h o p , t h i s m a n u a l c a n
h e l p y o u u n d e r s t a n d , c a r e f o r a n d r e p a i r y o u r V e c t r a . W e d o it o u r s e l v e s t o h e l p
y o u d o - i t - y o u r s e l f , a n d w h a t e v e r y o u r m e c h a n i c a l ability, t h e p r a c t i c a l s t e p -
'
b y - s t e p explanations, linked t o over 9 0 0 p h o t o s , will help y o u get t h e j o b d o n e
right. R e g u l a r s e r v i c i n g a n d m a i n t e n a n c e of y o u r V e c t r a c a n h e l p m a i n t a i n its
r e s a l e v a l u e , s a v e y o u m o n e y , a n d m a k e it s a f e r t o d r i v e .
HAYNES M A N U A L S EXPLAIN BEST - SEE HAYNES, SEE H O W
"The m o s t useful tool,
a Haynes Manual"
"...it's the paper
equivalent of talking
to a mate who's
happy
t o help... a great w a y
for owners to save
cash by tackling jobs
themselves..."
" ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
" . . . k n o w l e d g e is p o w e r ,
a n d t h a t k n o w l e d g e is in
your workshop manual...'
Inside this Manual
Maintenance Simple weekly checks to keep you on the road
Servicing Includes Service Indicator reset procedure
Fault finding Pinpoint specific problems easily
The MoT Step-by-step test checks
Fuel saving Expert advice on maximising mpg
Electrics Easy-to-read wiring diagrams
Haynes tips Valuable short cuts make many tasks easier
I
ISBN 978 1 84425 887 1
Models covered by this
"...Haynes manuals are
legendary..."
d a d d i e s w h e n it
comes to
Manual
1.8 litre (1796cc) & 2,2 litre (2198cc)
or dual fuel models
Haynes Publishing, Sparl
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